Saveur

Fake Brews!

It’s easy for Americans to imagine Italy as a land of strict adherence to coffee rules— pity the tourist clueless enough to order a cappuccino after lunch. But this supposedly extremist that’s made in an espresso machine and could be said to taste sort of like coffee, if you’re being generous. As plain espresso it’s a little boring, even if it mimics the real thing’s deep brown color. But made into a cappuccino, the barley’s malty notes mingle with the foamed milk to create something more satisfying. It’s not hard to see the appeal — if nothing else were available.

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