I AM WRITING, INTERMITTENTLY GLANCING OUT AT THE RIVER SEINE, IN A SECOND- FLOOR WALK-UP ON ÎLE SAINT-LOUIS. The season is turning. It is a cool autumnal day of pale sunlight and scudding clouds. A slight breeze flutters the long lace trail of a bride who is being carefully arranged and photographed on the far shore.

When I look up again there are three brides. They resemble elegant white swans. What is it with photographing brides at

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