What’s in a name?
The question I’m naively throwing around the Fleurieu is what makes the wine dynasties (that abound in the region) not just survive for generations, but thrive. Colin Kay – great-grandson of Kay Brothers (est. 1890) co-founder Herbert – cites a ‘singe-minded dogged determination’, as one trait shared by Fleurieu’s dynasties, but it’s only part of the picture.
Later in our conversation at the historic Amery property, discussing Colin’s zig-zagging path to eventually join the family business, there’s another clue. ‘After I completed my oenology diploma I slipped overseas and did some crazy things,’ says Colin, 78, now retired, but sprightly and bursting with passion for the winery. ‘I rode a motorcycle all over North America, worked in winemaking in Canada, worked on fishing boats in Alaska, travelled through Europe and South America.’
This ambitious, risk-taking streak seems to run through
