New York Magazine

New Food for an Old Familiar

Gotham Bar and Grill’s modern makeover is purely culinary.
Gotham Bar and Grill

ONE COULD EMPLOY all sorts of metaphors to describe the delicate process of replacing the revered chef at a venerable, though now slightly dated, big-city restaurant. There’s the new-sports-coach metaphor, although not many teams have had a head coach for as long as the recently deposed Alfred Portale ran the Gotham Bar and Grill, which opened, as its devotees can tell you, in a tall loft space in the Village almost four decades ago. There’s the avuncular-school-principal metaphor or the old-cruise-ship-captain metaphor, although, in the fickle restaurant world, old regulars aren’t forced to sit patiently at their tables the way students are when a new head of school

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