French Twist
The venerable Wazee Supper Club on 15th Street in LoDo was transformed last fall, after a substantial makeover, into Morin, a French restaurant from prolific restaurateur Juan Padro and chef-partner Max MacKissock. They’re part of the team behind LoHi’s Señor Bear and Bar Dough, both of which I like a lot. But unlike Pan-Latin Bear and jazzy Italian café Dough, Morin isn’t an easy restaurant to decode.
To start, Morin’s dining room avoids Gallic gestures. My first impression put it more in the company of other bar-and-grill-ish places that hustle for foot traffic in the Union Station area: There are high windows, leather banquets, the inevitable brick and wood accents with an open ceiling and black ductwork, and
