A KEEN COLLECTION

HERE’S A LITTLE PIECE OF meat under the clavicle of a duck that drives me nuts. To get at it requires a moment of dedicated concentration when filleting the breast. I have to halt the cut that severs the fillet from the keel of the breastbone, turn the knife spine at a downward angle—blade up and nearly parallel to the breast keel—and probe the narrow tip toward the neck to cut away cleanly along the underside of the collarbone. If I do this right, I’ll wind up with at least an additional ∕1,000 ounce of