Cook's Country

Brandy Chicken

NOT TOO LONG ago I heard a friend of mine wax nostalgic about her grandmother’s brandy-braised chicken. It was a wet, cold day; I was hungry, and all her talk about this “heavenly” dish was torture. When I asked her for the recipe, she said she didn’t have one, just memories. When I pressed her, she could only repeat, “There was crispy-skinned, succulent chicken in a lovely brandy sauce with garlic, caramelized onions, and thyme.” Seeing her plaintive look, I knew what she

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