Getting to Know Fontina

In the cheese world, fontina is a challenge to clearly define. Depending on where and how it is made, it can vary in intensity, from mildly milky to earthy or mushroomy, often with a pleasant sweetness that enhances other ingredients. Fontina has a reputation for melting well, so it’s the perfect addition to lasagna, pizza, stuffed chicken breasts, omelets, and more.

The “true” fontina—Fontina Val d’Aosta—has been made in the northwest corner of Italy since at least the 13th century. This cheese has (DOP) status, meaning that it must be made according to exact specifications. If you can find it at your local supermarket, it probably costs upwards of $20 per pound. You’re more likely to spot more affordable cheeses labeled fontina, fontal, or fontinella. Some