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BIRDS

As important as it is, I despise sunblock. Within an hour, fiery SPF particles, or whatever chemical gunk is in the stuff, find their way into my eyes. Particularly when I’m birding in a humid, tropical place. And you can’t get more humid and tropical than Thailand’s lowland forests.

I was staring into the canopy, my frustration rising faster than the ambient temperature, and I could hear the most bizarre call: a series of growling whistles increasing in pace to a frantic crescendo. But the

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