Gourmet Traveller

The whole nine yards

On paper, it sounds contrived: a Spanish-themed food court run by three celebrity chefs in an American mall. But The Shops and Restaurants at Hudson Yards is no ordinary mall, and Mercado Little Spain is much more than a standard shopping-centre dining precinct.

“What José Andrés and the Adrià brothers have done at Mercado Little Spain is really remarkable,” The New York Times food critic Pete Wells told me soon after my first visit to Hudson Yards. “There’s never been anything like it for Spanish food.”

New York has never seen anything quite like Hudson Yards, either. Work started seven years ago on the US$25-billion complex atop a railway depot, sandwiched between Chelsea and Hell’s Kitchen on Manhattan’s West Side. Early features

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