OUT of AWADH
Uttar Pradesh. Few places provoke such an impassioned response when mentioned. Derided, romanticised, fought over—this vast skein of land coiled across Northern India has cradled empires, gods, a billion and one villagers, and a constellation of poets.
‘Why would you go to UP when you have the whole of India?’ was the most common refrain as we set off on an epic road trip in the steaming height of summer. But I had a yearning to uncover the state’s mille-feuille of layers. The region’s richly-nuanced design heritage was the vein
