A GUINGUETTE SPIRIT IN A TROPICAL ATMOSPHERE
his open-air restaurant in the new Hôtel The People Paris Marais – a kind of youth hostel and hip hotel hybrid – definitely does not go unnoticed with its floor of the hotel, beneath the curve of the arches inspired by Oscar Niemeyer and flawlessly decorated by the young architect Olivier Lekien. Inside, at the heart of a kind of gigantic urban greenhouse beneath the 5-meter-high ceilings, a central 40-meter bar – the longest in Paris, we are told – trimmed with zellige tiles and green marble takes center stage. The 80 seats of the restaurant are scattered all around, some on the semi-open terrace that is a pleasant place to enjoy the bistronomic cuisine of chef Lisa Desforges, formerly at L’Ami Jean. The menu featured forgettable starters, however, since they were all sorely lacking in seasoning: the burrata from Apulia was unfortunately served with very bland purple artichokes (€12), while the raw meagre ceviche was drowning in tiger’s milk in dire need of salt, lime and hot pepper (€9). A half-hearted start that was quickly forgotten by the excellent veal with pureed carrots, wild St George’s mushrooms and apricots (€24) and the flawless cod aioli (€16), done to a perfectly pearly white. Short but sweet dessert menu. While the restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday, the bar still offers a menu of finger foods and plates to share.
