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Acapulco & Southern Pacific Mexico Travel Adventures - Vivien Lougheed
Acapulco & Southern Pacific Mexico
Vivien Lougheed
HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC,
www.hunterpublishing.com
Ulysses Travel Publications
4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec
Canada H2W 2M5
514-843-9882, ext. 2232; fax 514-843-9448
Windsor Books
The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington
Oxford, OX44 9EJ England
01865-361122; fax 01865-361133
© Hunter Publishing, Inc.
This and other Hunter travel guides are also
available as e-books in a variety of digital formats
through our online partners, including Netlibrary.com,
Amazon.com and BarnesandNoble.com.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher.
This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.
Maps by Kim André, © Hunter Publishing, Inc.
Introduction
History
Paleo-Indians
The Spanish
The Mexican Revolution
Government
Officials
Military Service
Economy
People & Culture
Cultural Groups
Traditional Arts
Dress
Music
Dance
The Land
Geology
Environmental Concerns
Parks
Climate
Tsunamis
Plant Life
Ecological Zones
Animal Life
On Land
Airborne
Birds
In the Ocean
National Emblems
National Anthem
Coat of Arms
National Flag
National Prayer
Travel Information
Facts at Your Fingertips
When to Go
National & Religious Holidays
Seasonal Considerations
What to Take
Required Documents
Traveling with Pets
Packing List
Health Concerns
Medical Insurance
Water
Common Ailments
Treatment Options
IAMAT Clinics
Money Matters
Banking/Exchange
Credit Cards
Planning Expenses
Taxes & Tipping
Measurements
Dangers & Annoyances
Airport Security
Common-Sense Precautions
Toilets
Tourist Assistance
Police & Other Agencies
Communications
Telephone
Mexican Newspapers
Internet
Culture Shock
Public Affection
Gay & Lesbian Travel
Special Needs Travelers
Human Rights
Food
Booking a Room
Getting Here
By Air
Overland by Bus
Overland by Car or RV
By Sea
Getting Around
Author's Top Picks
Acapulco & Southern Pacific Mexico
Acapulco
Getting Here & Around
History
Services
Sightseeing
Adventures on Foot
Golf
Tennis
Adventures on Water
Beaches
Cruises
Diving/Snorkeling
Adventures in Nature
Adventure in the Air
Adventures on Horseback
Adventures of the Brain
Outfitters/Tour Operators
Shopping
Places to Stay
Places to Eat
Nightlife
Heading to Puerto Escondido
Puerto Escondido
Getting Here & Around
History
Services
Adventures on Foot
Adventures on Water
Beaches
Adventures in Nature
Adventures of the Brain
Outfitters/Tour Operators
Places to Stay
Places to Eat
Nightlife
Puerto Angel/Zipolete
Getting Here & Around
History
Adventures on Water
Beaches
Places to Stay & Eat
Huatulco
Getting Here & Around
History
Adventures on Foot
Adventure on Water
Beaches
Diving
Adventures in Nature
Outfitters/Tour Operators
Places to Stay
Places to Eat
Oaxaca
Getting Here & Away
History
Services
Adventure in Culture
Monte Alban
Other Villages
Places to Stay
Places to Eat
Nightlife
Appendix
Recommended Reading
Glossary
THE CALENDAR
NUMBERS
CONVERSATION
TIME
DIRECTIONS
ACCOMMODATIONS
FOOD
Consulates
Introduction
The lure of isolated beaches rimmed with palm trees brought John Huston to Puerto Vallarta in the 1960s to film Night of the Iguana. His cast included Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. While working, the two fell in love. Richard bought Elizabeth a house similar to his own that was perched on the side of a hill overlooking Bandera Bay. The houses were across the road from each other. The couple then built a walkway between the two places so they could visit each other more discreetly. Elizabeth left Eddie Fisher, her husband at the time, and married Burton. Their story became one of the great love stories of that century.
This romance resulted in thousands of people swarming to the shores of Mexico's west coast in search of sun, sand, palm trees and love. Some even came looking for iguanas. The Mexicans soon realized the potential of tourism and, with the help of international companies, built a first-class infrastructure of hotels, shops and restaurants around the bay.
However, not all visitors wanted what had been built, so they moved up and down the coast to little villages where they could ride horses or donkeys, snorkel among the tropical fish, trek in the jungle looking for exotic birds and animals, watch cliff divers perform or just lay where it was quiet and sip on tequila.
In the jungles along the shore, Mexicans built viewing stations connected by cables where tourists could swing like monkeys while looking for exotic birds and strange amphibians. The usual adjustments took place. Some Mexicans and tourists didn't like the environmental effects caused by chasing around in motorboats looking for big fish, building hotels on the beach, and bungee jumping off bridges. Ecologically-sensitive practices were followed so that wildlife was protected. Garbage was picked up and pollution-control devices were put on vehicles. They left some of the jungle in its wild state and planted flowers in their gardens. More people came.
Today, the west coast of Mexico is as popular as ever. This is because it offers every possible recreational activity, suitable for almost any skill level and budget. The area has both economical and lush accommodations. The food is safe to eat and the bottled water, found in every hotel hallway, grocery store and café is safe to drink. The crime rate is low in tourist areas and the locals are friendly, though the usual pressures of tourism often show. But the best draw of all is that the price for a comparable vacation in any other tropical paradise is about twice what it is here.
The best time to visit the Pacific coast of Mexico is between November and May, when humidity and temperatures are down. This is when most North American and European countries are cold. It is also when the whales move south looking for warmer waters and when the migratory birds are passing by on their way to winter nesting grounds.
But Mexico also has lots to offer during the summer. The Sierra Madres butt up against the ocean, offering relief from the heat just a few hours away by car or public bus. At higher elevations, muscle-powered sports like hiking or cycling are possible any time of year. Museums in the state capitals offer endless intellectual stimulation and the live entertainment often found in towns and city plazas is enthralling. There are ruins to visit and architecture to admire, history to relive and exotic foods to taste.
Regardless of when you come or where you go along Mexico's west coast, you can enjoy any style of vacation, and your trip will be one that you will remember for a long time.
History
Anywhere I go I want to know who was there before me. I want to know their stories.
Paleo-Indians
The main pattern of Paleo-Indian settlement in the Americas (20,000-7,000 BC approx) is generally agreed upon, though dates and details keep changing and infighting among anthropologists and archeologists is intense. By about 20,000 BC, the last ice age was into a long decline. The ice pack that covered most of Canada and Northeastern United States receded, creating a corridor from Beringia (connecting Asia and North America) down into ice-free southern Alberta. From there the rest of the Americas was wide open, but the migrants kept moving south down the mountain chains. They stuck to the highlands because these areas supported the large herbivores that they ate: mammoth, mastodon, caribou, bison, horse, giant armadillo, giant sloth, guanaco (ancestor of the llama), llama and vicuña.
The dating of sites in the Americas shows the progression, first north to south, then east and west. These dates also show how long the process took. Sites like Monte Verde in southern Chile have been reliably dated to about 12,000-10,000 BC. Estimates are that in Mesoamerica, the occupied parts of pre-Columbian Mexico and Central America, the highlands may have been populated as early as 18,000 BC.
Archeologists also learn from the sites how the Paleo-Indians lived. In Monte Verde, wood and skin huts contained brazier pits. Mastodon and other large herbivore bones were found, along with the remains of seeds, nuts, berries and roots. Tools included stone hand axes, choppers and scrapers; some of these tools may have had wooden handles. The weapons were wooden lances and stones chosen or shaped so that they could be hurled from slings.
Once the Americas were occupied from top to bottom, population pressure and global warming resulted in movement into the lowlands, along the coastlines (which at that time were farther out to sea), and onto the Caribbean islands. Increasing temperatures changed the highlands in particular, leaving them less habitable. In Mesoamerica the grasslands turned to deserts, and the large herbivores disappeared, leaving smaller game like rabbit and deer.
Along the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean, grasslands turned into forests. Since Mesoamerica was, and still is, rich in edible plants - like mesquite, cactus and agave - people ate more grains, fruits and vegetables and less meat, though ducks and dogs were being domesticated as a meat supply. By 11,000 BC, people were eating wild corn, onions, amaranth, avocado, acorns, piñon nuts, chili peppers, maguey and prickly pear. By 8,000 BC, the Paleo-Indian period of Mesoamerica was coming to an end. Chasing game was giving way to clearing land, cultivating domestic plants, and raising domestic animals.
By 7,000 BC, the nomadic hunters were growing crops, especially squash, avocado and chili pepper. By 5,000 BC, maize - a small, wheat-like ancestor of corn - was being grown in the Tehuacan Valley of Southern Mexico. By 3,000 BC, pit house settlements were popular. A pit house was a tent-like wood, wattle and daubed-mud structure erected over a hole dug into the ground. By 2,300 BC, pottery replaced stone jars and bowls, village life was the norm, and population growth was exploding. One of the sites, found in 1947 at Tepexpan, confirmed many of these facts for archeologists.
As civilization grew, four classical groups formed in Mexico. They were the Teotihuacans, who lived in and around Mexico City; the Zapotecs, who lived in the Oaxaca and Tehuantepec areas; and the Olmecs and Totonacs, who lived in the Vera Cruz part of the country. The Maya lived mostly in Southern Mexico, Belize and Guatemala and as far south as Honduras and Nicaragua.
The Olmecs and Totonacs were most powerful around 1700 BC and had developed a unique artistic style in the carving of huge stone heads. In contrast to these stone heads, they also carved intricate jade figurines. However, their greatest contribution was the development of hieroglyphic writing and of the calendar that had dots for days and dashes representing months. The Olmecs disappeared around 600 BC. Archeo-logists have not decided what ultimately happened to the Olmecs. The present evidence shows that they could have disappeared because of starvation, invasion and assimilation, or genocide.
The Teotihuacans were so impressive to the Aztecs, who came later, that the Aztecs named the city as the place of the gods.
The Teotihuacans had good town planning with all activities taking place in the main plaza that was marked by an impressive pyramid. From the plaza, a complex road system splayed out into the countyside, where the urban population worked the fields. Their trade was so extensive that evidence of their presence was found as far south as Guatemala.
While Teotihuacans grew, the Zapotecs to the south also gained power. Their city of Monte Alban grew to about 20,000 people, almost as big as the powerful Maya center of Tikal in Guatemala. The people of Monte Alban continued to flourish until about 700 AD, when they fell into decline. They are mainly known for their black pottery.
The Maya became the next prominent civilization, followed by the Toltecs who, like the Maya, disappeared due to drought around 1100 AD.
The Aztecs were a warring group who, by forming alliances with lesser groups, soon took control of central Mexico. Their empire eventually included over five million people. They had a hierarchy that was headed by a king and queen, followed by nobility and then the military. Those in commerce, farming and art belonged to the lower classes. The Aztec's religious ceremonies were complex and included human sacrifice to appease the gods.
Man in traditional dress
AZTEC Lore
The Aztecs believed that the sun and earth had died and been reborn four times. They also believed that the fifth cycle of birth and death would result in the final death.
All in all, Mexican civilizations developed organized religions, written language, monumental architecture, sophisticated art forms and an understanding of mathematics and astronomy. They also had an accurate calendar. But their main focus was, as with modern people, on war and trade. This resulted in the Toltecs from the north interbreeding with the Maya and, by 1200 AD, the Aztecs intermingling with southern tribes. The most famous leader of this group was Montezuma, who is credited with uniting most of the tribes of Mexico as far south as Oaxaca. He was also the leader who had to deal with the Spanish.
The Spanish
In 1511 a boat loaded with Spaniards traveling from South America to the Caribbean was marooned on the coast of the Yucatán. Among the shipwrecked survivors was Jeronimo de Alguilar who, rather than returning to South America, chose to live among the Maya and learn their language.
Six years later, Diego Velasquez decided that Mexico should be explored and exploited so he sent Francisco Fernández de Cordoba to start the process. Cordoba did some exploration and was soon followed by Hernan Cortez. After two years of exploration under the command of Cortez, thousands of Aztec people and all the Aztec chiefs had been executed, and thousands had succumbed to smallpox, typhoid and dysentery. Others who resisted Spanish intrusions were killed. The land was open for grabs. Cortez became the Marquis of Oaxaca, with 25,000 square miles/65,000 square km of land and 100,000 Indians to control.
By 1528 the first court with executive powers was established in Mexico and Antonio de Mendoza became the first viceroy of New Spain. Mendoza was succeeded in 1535 by Luis de Velasco, who ruled until 1564. This was the beginning of 300 years of Spanish dominance in Mexico, during which time the Indians became impoverished slaves and the Spanish became ruling landowners. The Spanish wanted a feudal system like they had at home - only in Mexico the Indians would be the serfs.
Under Spanish leadership agricultural practices were extended, mining was modernized and new crops (such as citrus fruits, wheat, sugarcane and olives) were introduced. Also, chickens, horses, mules and donkeys were brought into the country. The Spanish secured the caste system and placed themselves at the top of the heap. They ensured expansion by bringing in Catholicism and allowing the missionaries to go into the hinterland to secure more souls.
Independence
Exploitation of the masses caused discontent mostly among the miners in Mexico. Miners, who had the sympathy of most peasants, were drawn by an inspiring speech by Miguel Hidalgo, a Creole, in Guanajuato on September 16, 1810. They started the War of Independence that resulted in Hidalgo and his machete-wielding army meeting the Spanish royalists near Mexico City. Intimidated by the enemy, Hidalgo retreated to Guadalajara and then to the north. He and some of his men were captured, executed and had their heads hung on a granary wall as a warning to other would-be rebels. Today, September 16th is celebrated as Independence Day and Hidalgo is considered the hero, although true independence didn't come for a long time.
After Hidelgo's death, his loyal follower, José Maria Morelos, another Creole, became the leader of the areas now known as Guerrero and Oaxaca. His main goal was to establish independence for Mexico by forming a constitution and improving the economy. In November of 1813, and before he could