Canal House Cooking Volume N° 1: Summer
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About this ebook
Eighty-one delicious triple-tested recipes specially designed for summer come together in a vibrantly illustrated cookbook as beautiful as it is functional.
CANAL HOUSE COOKING, VOLUME N° 1, SUMMER is a collection of our favorite summer recipes, ones we cook for ourselves all through the long lazy months. We are home cooks writing about home cooking for other home cooks. We cook seasonally because that’s what makes sense. In midsummer, we buy boxes of tomatoes to dress as minimally as we do in the heat. And in the height of the season, we preserve all that we can, so as to save a taste of summer. We make jarfuls of teriyaki sauce for slathering on chicken. We love to cook big paellas outdoors over a fire for a crowd of friends. We are crazy for ripe melons in late summer. And we churn tubs of ice cream for our families.
If you cook your way through a few of our recipes, you’ll see that who we are comes right through in these pages. With a few exceptions, we use ingredients that are readily available and found in most markets in most towns throughout the United States. All the recipes are easy to prepare (some of them a bit more involved), all completely doable for the novice and experienced cook alike.
Cook all summer long with Canal House Cooking!
Christopher Hirsheimer
Christopher Hirsheimer served as food and design editor for Metropolitan Home magazine, and was one of the founders of Saveur magazine, where she was executive editor. She is a writer and a photographer.
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Canal House Cooking Volume N° 1 - Christopher Hirsheimer
CANAL HOUSE
COOKING
Copyright © 2009 by Christopher Hirsheimer & Melissa Hamilton
Photographs copyright © 2009 by Christopher Hirsheimer
Illustrations copyright © 2009 by Melissa Hamilton
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
Canal House
No. 6 Coryell Street
Lambertville, NJ 08530
thecanalhouse.com
ISBN: 978-1-4532-1937-9
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
Book design by Canal House, a group of artists who collaborate on design projects.
This book was designed by Melissa Hamilton, Christopher Hirsheimer & Teresa Hopkins.
Authors’ photo by Teresa Hopkins.
Edited by Margo True.
Copyedited by Valerie Saint-Rossy.
This 2012 edition distributed by Open Road Integrated Media, Inc.
180 Maiden Lane
New York, NY 10038
www.openroadmedia.com
CANAL HOUSE
COOKING
Summer
Volume N° 1
Hamilton & Hirsheimer
Table of Contents
IT’S ALWAYS FIVE O’CLOCK SOMEWHERE
the sidecar
caipirinha
pimm’s cup
parrish house special
sun
tea
simple syrup
crème de cassis & club soda
melon water
WORKING UP AN APPETITE
how to boil an egg
buttered
eggs
deviled eggs
little toasts
caramelized onions
canned sardines on toast
chicken livers with scallions
eggs & bacon on little toasts
julia, the fry queen
fritto misto
tomato & crab aspic
melon & prosciutto
spiced-up yogurt sauce
spanish mushrooms
A BIG BOWL OF SOUP
cold borscht
maria’s gazpacho in 5 minutes
consommé madrilène
two ways to make potato leek soup
HOW MANY WAYS CAN YOU USE OLIVE OIL & LEMON
canal house salad
lazy man’s delicious salad vinaigrette
vinaigrette in the bottom of a salad bowl
preserved lemon vinaigrette
green goddess dressing
creamy blue cheese dressing
corn, string bean & potato succotash salad
a nice niçoise for next to nil
shaved raw asparagus with lemon-anchovy vinaigrette
potato salad buttered
& lemoned
old-fashioned potato salad
TOO MANY TOMATOES
baked tomatoes stuffed with rice
oven-dried tomatoes
tomatoes all dressed up for summer
tomato rollmops
roasted tomatoes studded with garlic
stephen’s summer spaghetti
plum tomato sauce
FISH TAILS
cold lobster with homemade mayonnaise
mussel scallion stew
grilled salmon with green olive sauce
grilled shrimp with anchovy butter
IF IT TASTES LIKE CHICKEN
poached chicken en gelée
teriyaki roast chicken
the fry queen’s fried chicken
HOG HEAVEN
candied bacon
hoi-sinful spareribs
pork loin cooked in milk
TWO STEAKS FEED FOUR
two steaks feed four
parsleyed butter
green sauce
FIRST YOU BUILD A FIRE
canal house paella
EAT YOUR VEGETABLES
roasted eggplant & zucchini with breadcrumbs
fried green tomatoes
chanterelles
soft zucchini with harissa, olives & feta
sweet & sour onions
swiss chard flan
BERRIES, PLUMS, PEACHES & ICE CREAM
classic vanilla ice cream
plum tart
plum galette
little summer puddings
peaches poached
in white wine with fresh herbs
WHY BUY IT WHEN YOU CAN MAKE IT?
watermelon pickle
li’s sichuan pepper & ginger pickles
preserved lemons
bread crumbs
first fireGrilling in the fireplace at Canal House on a rainy summer day
CANAL HOUSE
COOKING
Welcome to the Canal House—our studio, workshop, dining room, office, kitchen, lair, lab, and atelier devoted to good ideas and good work relating to the world of food. We write, photograph, design, and paint, but in our hearts we both think of ourselves as cooks first.
How did we get here? Neither of us set out to make careers in the food world. Actually there wasn’t much of a foodie
world when we both started. But our deep interests led us down paths that unfolded in front of us.
We had worked with each other as food editors in the magazine world. We traveled the globe in search of essential and authentic recipes, sliding into banquettes in famous restaurants, meeting big deal chefs, and even cooking in far-flung home kitchens. It was great and exciting. But our work took us both away from our families, our homes, and our gardens, away from what really matters, after all.
We live in little towns across the river from each other, one in New Jersey, the other in Pennsylvania. So we decided to join forces. We share similar backgrounds, having grown up in big families where food came first. In a time that seems like a million years ago now, our aproned grandmothers nurtured us with wholesome, comforting food—buttermilk pancakes drenched in salty butter and maple syrup. Our mothers were glamorous. They loved parties and cocktails and restaurants and brunch with Bloody Marys—food was exciting. Last night’s Chinese takeout
would show up at breakfast reheated with two poached eggs on top. Both of us have deep food memories and large legacies to uphold.
We found our loft studio in an old redbrick warehouse downriver from where we live. A beautiful lazy canal runs alongside the building. One hundred years ago, mules plodding along the tow path hauled provision-ladened barges up and down the state. In warm weather, we throw open the French doors and the voices of the people walking or fishing below float up to us. We plant herbs in our window boxes and grow tomatoes in pots on our wrought-iron balcony. In the winter we build fires in the Franklin wood stove to keep cozy when its snowy and gray outside.
The Canal House has a simple galley kitchen. Two small apartment-size
stoves sit snugly side by side against a white tiled wall. An old wooden carpenter’s worktable with a little sink at one end is our long counter and pots hang from a rack suspended above it. We have a dishwasher, but we find ourselves preferring to hand wash the dishes so we can look out of the tall window next to the sink and see the ducks swimming in the canal or watch the raindrops splashing into the water.
The town around us is a small American river town. A noon whistle still blows and church bells chime—no kidding! There is a drug store around the corner. Across the street is an