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    Smart Guide Italy: Southern Italy: Smart Guide Italy, #22
    Smart Guide Italy: Southern Italy: Smart Guide Italy, #22
    Smart Guide Italy: Southern Italy: Smart Guide Italy, #22
    Ebook338 pages5 hours

    Smart Guide Italy: Southern Italy: Smart Guide Italy, #22

    By Alexei Cohen

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    About this ebook

    Smart Guide is an independent digital travel publisher with 25 guides to all of Italy's cities and regions. Each title in the series provides insights to the most important monuments and useful information for eating, drinking, and having a good time in Italy. Smart Guide also offers an online accommodation service that allows travelers to enjoy local hospitality, lower their CO2 impact and save.

    Other titles in the Smart Guide series include:
    Cities & Regions:
    Rome & Lazio / Florence & Tuscany / Genova & Liguria / Turin, Piedmont & Aosta / Milan & Lombardy / Trentino-Alto Adige / Venice & Veneto / Bologna & Emilia Romagna / Le Marche / Umbria / Naples & Campania / Abruzzo & Molise / Puglia / Basilicata & Clabria / Sardinia

    Multiple Regions:
    Northern Italy / Central Italy / Italian Islands / Italy

    Cities:
    Northern Italian Cities / Central Italian Cities / Southern Italian Cities / Grand Tour: Rome, Florence, Venice & Naples

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherAlexei Cohen
    Release dateApr 13, 2013
    ISBN9781301438631
    Smart Guide Italy: Southern Italy: Smart Guide Italy, #22
    Author

    Alexei Cohen

    I fell in love with Italy while watching the movie La Strada in the basement of my university library. Since then I have met and married an Italian, written and edited several guides and enjoyed a lot of pasta, wine and gelato. I live with my family on the outskirts of Rome and cultivate my passion for Italy a little more everyday. Moon Rome, Florence & Venice is my latest book and a result of months of exploration. I look forward to sharing what I have discovered and meeting travelers in Rome to swap stories over a cappuccino.

    Read more from Alexei Cohen

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      Book preview

      Smart Guide Italy - Alexei Cohen

      Smart Guide Italy: Southern Italy

      Published by Smart Guides

      Smashwords Edition

      Copyright 2013 Smart Guides

      Other titles in the Smart Guide Italy series:

      Cities & Regions

      Rome & Lazio / Florence & Tuscany / Genova & Liguria / Turin, Piedmont & Aosta / Milan & Lombardy / Trentino-Alto Adige / Venice & Veneto / Bologna & Emilia Romagna / Le Marche / Umbria / Naples & Campania / Abruzzo & Molise / Puglia / Basilicata & Clabria / Sardinia

      Multiple Regions

      Northern Italy / Central Italy / Italian Islands / Italy

      Cities

      Northern Italian Cities / Southern Italian Cities / Central Italian Cities / Grand Tour: Rome, Florence, Venice & Naples

      Smashwords Edition, License Notes

      This ebook is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This ebook may not be re-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please purchase an additional copy for each recipient. If you’re reading this book and did not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your use only, then please return to Smashwords.com and purchase your own copy. Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.

      Smart Accommodation:

      Smart Guide has teamed up with over 5,000 bed and & breakfasts, self-catering apartments and small hotels in order to provide travelers with convenient, reasonably priced accommodation in the best locations throughout Italy. To view all our accommodation options visit our website and choose the one that’s right for you. Enjoy the journey!

      Smart Answers:

      Travel requires making choices. If you have any questions regarding your trip to Italy write to us and we will get back to you within 24 hours. If you have any comments or suggestions that will help improve future editions we’d love to hear them.

      CONTENTS

      FOREWORD

      INTRODUCTIONG NAPLES AND CAMPANIA

      Top Stops

      Planning

      Naples

      Sights / Entertainment and Events / Sports and Recreation / Shopping / Food / Accommodations / Information and Services / Getting There / Getting Around

      Near Naples

      Campi Flegrei / Herculaneum / Mount Vesuvius / Pompeii

      Benevento / Caserta / Casertavecchia / Capua

      Islands in the Gulf Of Naples

      Procida / Ischia / Capri

      Amalfi Coast

      Sorrento / Sant’Agata Sui due Golfi / Positano / Amalfi / Ravello

      Gulf of Salerno

      Salerno / Paestum

      INTRODUCING PUGLIA

      History

      Top Stops

      Planning

      Bari and the Adriatic Coast

      Bari / Trani / Ruvo di Puglia / Castel del Monte

      Foggia and the Tavoliere Plain

      Foggia / Lucera / Troia

      Gargano Peninsula

      Rodi Garganico / Vieste

      Monte Sant’Angelo

      Parco Nazionale del Gargano

      Isole Tremiti

      Itria Valley and Trulli District

      Alberobello

      Martina Franca

      Brindisi

      Taranto

      Lecce and the Salentine Peninsula

      Lecce

      Otranto

      Gallipoli

      INTRODUCING BASILICATA AND CALABRIA

      History

      Top Stops

      Planning

      Basilicata: Potenza and Surroundings

      Potenza

      Lagopesole

      Melfi

      Venosa

      Matera and Surroundings

      Matera

      Murge Mountains and Basilicata Valleys

      Aliano

      Basilicata Coast

      Metaponte

      Maratea

      Parco Naturale del Pollino

      Calabria: Ionian Coast

      Rossano

      Isola Capo Rizzuto

      Stilo

      Gerace

      Tyrrhenian Coast

      Diamante

      Paola

      Amantea

      Pizzo Calabro

      Tropea

      Reggio Calabria

      FOREWORD

      Dear Traveler,

      Nowhere is the north-south divide so pronounced than in Italy. Life is so different in the south that you might think you were in a different country. That’s a good thing, for Southern Italy has its own distinct culture and history which has remained very much intact. Of course the four regions that make up the area are far less famous than their northern neighbors and few tourists take the time and effort needed to fully explore the area. That’s why it’s less crowded and requires a spirit of adventure. Anything could happen and usually does happen in Southern Italy and if you enjoy the unknown then this is the place to go.

      Naples is unlike any other city in the world but there’s more to Campania than the capital and any traveler with the time and gumption should attempt to experience as much of this unique region as possible. Those looking for antiquities will find them in Herculaneum, Pompeii and Paestum while romantics and naturalists can explore the wonderful coastline that includes several picturesque islands. South of Naples you’ll find a succession of small villages and larger towns with traditions that have resisted the onslaught of modernity.

      Puglia might just be the best kept secret in Italy. Unlike more illustrious regions to the north it attracts far fewer visitors than you would expect from a region that pretty much has it all. That all includes the longest coastline in Italy, historic towns and villages, delicious local foods and some sights you won’t find anywhere else. If you’ve already been to Italy or even if this is your first time Puglia offers an experience many travelers miss.

      The farther south you travel in Italy the less tourists you encounter. Calabria and Basilicata are no exception to the rule and have been overlooked for decades. Travelers here are not especially pampered which doesn’t mean they aren’t welcome just that they shouldn’t expect the same services and luxuries found in the north. Exploring these regions requires patience and persistence. It will take accepting that trains don’t always run on time and roads are not always completed. If you can handle that then you’re in for a panoramic, cultural and gastronomic treat.

      Smart Guide Italy B&B also provides convenient accommodation throughout Southern Italy. You can stay in the comfort of an Italian home or farmhouse, get a unique local perspective and save. Just visit our website and choose the accommodation you prefer.

      Enjoy the Journey!

      Alexei Cohen

      Series Editor

      INTRODUCING NAPLES AND CAMPANIA

      The energy of Naples is palpable, more like that of New York than any other Italian city. Its streets may be crisscrossed with clotheslines strung with laundry, but Naples it is still a major metropolis and the largest city in Southern Italy. Summer heightens the theater of life here, when three million Neapolitans seem to simultaneously live outdoors.

      Naples is wealthy in artistic creativity. Artisans and manufacturers have been major players on the world stage since the Etruscans. Even the black market economy, where those skills have periodically been employed in major counterfeiting operations, is an ancient tradition. Upon arrival by train, the city exudes a certain lawlessness. Modern Naples remains choked by political corruption and organized crime that deprive its citizens of basic services. Garbage can go uncollected for weeks, a scandal that repeatedly plagues the city in neighborhoods that are less dependent on tourism and leads to improvised bonfires. Despite these obstacles, artistic life flourishes, perhaps propelled by the same fatalistic energy that life next to an active volcano like Vesuvius generates.

      The region of Campania possesses incredible variety. Getting out of Naples is easy and generally great fun. Emperors did it for centuries. Nearby Capua was home to the world’s largest amphitheater until the Coliseum was built in Rome. Today trains, buses, and boats take you easily and efficiently to some of the world’s most spectacular scenery. Caserta has its royal palace gardens designed to match Versailles in glory and size. Palace architect Vanvitelli took good note of the ancients. His soaring triple-tiered aqueduct still powers the Reggia gardens’ gushing waterfall. It spans roads that lead to enchanting small towns, wineries, forests, and fresh mozzarella.

      Benevento, its dark green forested hills full of mysteries and legends, has Roman ruins that include Emperor Trajan’s triumphal arch and ancient and contemporary theaters; after Naples, it is the region’s most important center for contemporary art. The ruins of Pompeii open an eerie window on everyday Roman life more completely and dramatically than any other site in the world. Yet, it’s only one of many archeological parks in Campania that reveals ancient temples, villas, mosaics, wall paintings, and other treasures. Recreation abounds for anyone who enjoys hiking, sailing, swimming, and just about any other sport. You may also find prices in most of Campania more reasonable than in wealthier regions in the north.

      The islands and Campania’s dramatic coast have attracted the rich and famous for centuries. Capri was Emperor Tiberius’ island playground long before the Hollywood jet set, European intellectuals, and writers like Graham Greene arrived. Ischia and Procida on the other hand have clung to their low-key island ways. Russian ballet legend Rudolph Nureyev even managed to buy his own island here. Ravello was author Gore Vidal’s beloved base for decades. The breathtaking views along the Amalfi Coast are are perfect for finding inspiration.

      A carefree and happy-go-lucky attitude reigns in Campania, so jump in and enjoy it. The right attitude allows you to escape intact and enjoy the mirth while you’re here.

      TOP STOPS

      Museo Archeologico

      The Museo Archeologico in Naples is one of the world’s best archeological museums featuring one of the most comprehensive collections of Greco-Roman artifacts in the world. Spend an afternoon exploring the vast collection of gems, mosaics, frescoes, and ancient Egyptian artifacts.

      Mount Vesuvius

      Vesuvius, a mountain within a mountain, has generated fear and awe since Naples was settled. The volcano’s most famous eruption in a.d. 79 covered Pompeii and nearby towns with ash and debris. Creator and destroyer, its fertile slopes are ideal for grapes and other crops. This ominous, ever present phenomenon has left an imprint on the inhabitants below who sometimes live as if there’s no tomorrow.

      Pompeii

      Pompeii, the site of the remains of a port city in ancient Rome, is one of Italy’s most visited attractions. The site is vast, but make sure to save some time to view the beautiful frescoes in the Villa dei Misteri.

      Benevento

      Land of legends and ancient battles, Benevento is Campania’s hidden gem. The breezy hill town has a magnificent triumphal Arch of Trajan, theaters in ruin, and seven modern ones. Its forests and mountainsides are stitched with vineyards, a reminder that this is the heart of Campania winemaking country.

      Reggia di Caserta

      Designed to match the glory of Versailles, Caserta’s royal palace is a regal sight. Its lavishly decorated interior is fit for a king. The expanse of gardens enchants visitors with grand paths to the dramatic waterfall that cascades into pools and finely manicured grounds ruled by mythical gods and goddesses.

      Grotta Azzurra

      Although it seems to be illuminated by its own light source, the intensely bright Grotta Azzurra in Capri is a dazzling phenomenon of refracted light. The entrance to the cave is tricky, so part of the fun is flattening out on a rowboat in order to enter the grotto.

      Ravello

      Ravello’s location on the Amalfi Coast provides both seclusion and spectacular views. The picturesque town has Moorish influences, charming cobblestone streets, and an exciting performing arts scene. The summer music festival should not to be missed if you’re in town.

      Paestum

      The ancient Magna Grecia town of Paestum dedicated to Poseidon, god of the sea, is a reminder that some of the best Greek ruins are in Italy. Three temples impress with their size and near-perfect condition. They offer intimacy too with curious wall paintings that show divers in fine Olympic form.

      PLANNING

      The first thing to keep in mind is not to skip over Naples. Tour groups ignore it as they pile in to Pompeii, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast, preferring to avoid chaos. The city’s treasures are rich and it makes an attractive base for exploring the famous islands nearby. Transportation is easy and a joy in itself to discover. Capri is a natural day-trip and even half a day will give you an idea of how idyllic life can be. If island prices are too steep, stay in Naples, where you can enjoy greater style and luxury for less money. Ferry across during the day and return to the city for some nightlife.

      Caserta’s palace can be visited in less than two hours, but why rush through its enchanting garden? Vesuvius is the sight of a regional park and makes a good half-day excursion. If you have the courage you can walk around the rim of the volcano’s crater. It’s set in a park, which can provide days of hiking and the opportunity to spot rare species of flora and fauna. A tour of ancient Pompeii takes a minimum of two or three hours, but that only allows for a quick glance of many sights. If you’re not on a tight schedule don’t rush and bring a picnic so you can dine as the Romans once did.

      Decide what activities and areas you would like to emphasize—whether art, nature, architecture, shopping, sports, or people-watching—but allow enough time to savor the experience once you’re there. With a little extra time, you could even take sailing, dancing, or cooking classes.

      History

      Even before the Greeks arrived, Oscans, Samnites, and Etruscans were roaming the territory and setting up major trading centers. The Greeks founded Neapolis (New City), where the Siren Parthenope landed after she was rejected by Odysseus. Greeks first settled around Cumae, then Romans invaded and used its deep harbor for trading, military maneuvers, and as a playground for its rich and famous.

      The Byzantine era re-linked Naples with the East. Later Goths, Saracens, Longobards, and Normans swept through. In the 10th century, the Normans ruled. The French Angevins and Spanish Aragonese established dynasties that made Naples a major center of power and patron of the arts. Bourbon rule began in 1734 under Charles III. Some locals blame events soon after the unification of Italy in 1860 for Naples’ demise. In 1861, King Vittorio Emanuele was installed and dealt a crippling blow to the city when the treasury was moved to Turin. Despite plagues, volcano eruptions, overpopulation, congestion, invasions, political corruption, and organized crime, Naples still moves at an energetic beat and creativity flows in abundance.

      NAPLES

      Travelers on the Grand Tour turned Naples into a must-see destination. During the 18th and 19th centuries it was more popular than Rome, Florence, and even Venice. The city was a magnet for the artistic, sophisticated, worldly, or just curious traveler. Naples still has more castles, museums, restaurants, churches, and shops than you can fit into a month. Once a recreation ground for emperors and headquarters for sovereigns, the original city by the bay has entertained visitors for a few thousand years.

      No city in Italy, or perhaps the world, is considered more musical than Naples, where song bursts forth now and again in the streets. San Carlo reigns supreme for opera. Naples’ sunny disposition blends easily with its fatalistic, dark humor as revealed in its plays, dialect, and street scenarios. Shoppers will find streets that have plenty of pizzazz in window displays. Gourmets prize its cuisine, among Italy’s best, down to its bargain street food. Wines come from vineyards in the nearby hills, mountains, and volcanic slopes that result in flavors that range from subtle and light to elegant and spicy. A world-class transportation system moves about complex terrain with great efficiency. You can go from palace to volcano, from archeological museum to steaming fumaroles in minutes.

      Even Italians sometimes give warnings about getting around in Naples. Generally, apply precautions that are relevant to any big city in the world. Be attentive of your purse and personal belongings. This is not the city to wear a Rolex, it’s a city to dress casually, elegantly, or even eccentrically without wearing objects that scream money. Arrive unfettered by luxuries that you have to mind. The fun of Naples is to plunge right in and enjoy its color and vibrancy.

      SIGHTS

      Since the city is built on different heights of a mountain, an ideal map of Naples would be in 3-D. Naples’ tourist attractions are spread out, so the best way to approach the city is on foot, making use of its efficient public transportation system. Some sights like Castel Nuovo, Piazza Plebiscito, and the San Carlo Opera are near the Bay of Naples and the port, while others like Certosa di San Martino and Museo di Capodimonte are up on the steep mountainside.

      Fortunately, you can hop the funicular to move uphill and downhill quickly and get a sense of how the neighborhoods are laid out. You can then take one of the buses that wind around the hills in the direction you need to go. The subway does not serve all sections of the city, but it covers a vast territory. Unless you are very comfortable with driving in Naples, leave the car in a locked garage.

      The city is multi-layered in other ways too. It’s built on Greek, Roman, and medieval foundations, so don’t forget to take a tour of subterranean Naples. For anyone spending several days in the city the ArteCard is a great way to see more and pay less.

      Palazzo del Municipio and Piazza del Plebiscito

      Piazza del Plebiscito, one of Europe’s grand squares, is only a short distance from Naples’ port at Molo Beverello. Its dignified expanse is embraced on one side by the 1817 church of San Francesco di Paola, whose proportions recall Rome’s Pantheon. The Royal Palace on the opposite side dates from 1600. A pinkish orange facade adds warmth to the square and accentuates its majestic proportions.

      Palazzo Reale

      Palazzo Reale (Piazza del Plebiscito, tel. 081/781-9362, Thurs.–Tues., 9 a.m.–8 p.m., €4 or free with ArteCard) features the Royal Apartments with opulent furnishings and the 1768 Teatrino di Corte court theater. Researchers often use the palace library, Biblioteca Nazionale, one of the most important in Italy with over two million books plus rare manuscripts. If the upstairs terrace is open, there’s a sweeping view of the Bay of Naples.

      Castel Nuovo

      Castel Nuovo (Piazza Municipio, tel. 081/795-5877, Mon.–Sat. 9 a.m.–7 p.m., €5 or free with Campania Artecard), or New Castle, set the stage for Charles I of Anjou, who began the castle in 1279 to serve the needs of the expanding Angevin court. New indicates that it was built later than Castel dell’Ovo and Capuano. The triumphal arch on the facade in ivory-colored marble dates from 1443; the niches above hold the Four Virtues. Archangel Michael, the warrior angel that still has a strong cult following in Campania and Abruzzo, is on the typanum.

      The main building blocks of the castle are tufo, gray volcanic stone. Inside the oldest section is the Cappella Palatina, which has some remaining frescoes decorated by the school of Giotto. Its museum is especially strong in 19th century Neapolitan paintings, a great way to see how Neapolitans view themselves and their city. Other paintings date from the 14th–19th centuries. Upper floors have views of the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius. Its atmospheric central courtyard is the scene of summer concerts.

      Teatro San Carlo

      Teatro San Carlo (Via San Carlo 101–103, www.teatrosancarlo.it, tel. 081/797-2111) along with Milan’s La Scala (opened 40 years later) and La Fenice in Venice, is considered one of Italy’s three major opera houses. Opened in 1737, its many illustrious artistic directors included Gioacchino Rossini and Gaetano Donizetti. The 3,000-seat theater is also home to a ballet school. Its traditional season runs from October–June but the opera often sponsors summer events around Naples. Tickets range from €160 for the front row to €40 in the balcony and €30 for anyone under 30 who doesn’t mind bending their neck to see the stage. Tours of the theater are conducted by a friendly actress on Sunday mornings at 11am and 12:30pm. The visit costs €15 and includes a drink at the bar.

      Galleria Umberto I

      Galleria Umberto I (Via San Carlo, Via Santa Brigida, Via Toledo, tel. 081/797-2303, daily 9 a.m.–1:30 p.m. and 4–8 p.m., free) is an iron and glass shopping arcade built in 1884. It was a fashionable meeting place for composers and musicians at the turn of the century. Today it’s a little rough around the edges but still inspires architects. Via Toledo, one of Naples’ longest streets, is named for the Spanish

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