Taxidermy Vol. 7 Mammal Heads - The Preparation, Skinning and Mounting of Mammal Heads
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Taxidermy Vol. 7 Mammal Heads - The Preparation, Skinning and Mounting of Mammal Heads - Read Books Ltd.
Modelling
HISTORY.
It is very evident that this art—Taxidermy, preservation or care of skins—had its origin far back before the dawn of written history. There existed then as now the desire to preserve the trophy of the hunter’s prowess and skill and the unusual in natural objects.
As far back as five centuries B. C. in the record of the African explorations of Hanno the Carthaginian, an account is given of the discovery of what was evidently the gorilla and the subsequent preservation of their skins, which were, on the return of the voyagers, hung in the temple of Astarte, where they remained until the taking of Carthage in the year 146 B. C.
This, of course, was not the art as we know it now, but shows the beginnings of what might be called the museum idea. The art of embalming as practiced by the ancient Egyptians was, however, effective, not for the purpose of having the specimens look natural, or for exhibition, but to satisfy the superstition of the times, and though a preservative art, hardly to be classed with taxidermy.
In the tombs of that period are found besides the mummies of human beings, countless others of dogs, cats, monkeys, birds, sheep and oxen. There have been a number of efforts made to substitute some form of embalming for present day taxidermy but without much success, for though the body of the specimen may be preserved from decay without removing it from the skin, the subsequent shrinkage and distortion spoil any effect which may have been achieved.
AN EARLY DAY SPECIMEN.
The first attempt at stuffing and mounting birds was said to have been made in Amsterdam in the beginning of the 16th century. The oldest museum specimen in existence, as far as I know, is a rhinoceros in the Royal Museum of Vertebrates in Florence, Italy, said to have been originally mounted in the 16th century.
Probably on account of the necessary knowledge of preservative chemicals, the art seems to have been in the hands of chemists and astrologers, chiefly, during the middle ages, and stuffed animals such as bats, crocodiles, frogs, snakes, lizards, owls, etc., figure in literary descriptions of their abodes. Then as now also, the dining halls of the nobles and wealthy were decorated with heads and horns procured in the hunt.
The first publications on the art seem to have been made in France, in which country and Germany, many still used methods and formulas originated. Though the first volume of instruction in taxidermy was published in the United States as late as 1865, it has been left for the study and ingenuity of American taxidermists to accomplish what is probably work of as high a standard as any in the world.
The Ward establishment at Rochester has turned out many well trained taxidermists, the large museums of the United States are filled with some of the best work of the kind in existence, besides many persons who have engaged in it for commercial purposes or to gratify private tastes. Many of these have made public their methods and modes in various publications. Among these are the works of Batty, Hornaday, Shofeldt, Davie, Rowley, Maynard, Reed and others, all of which are invaluable books of reference for the home taxidermist.
It is to be regretted that the once flourishing Society of American Taxidermists has not been perpetuated, numbering, as it did, among its membership the best artists in their line in this country.
There is no royal road to success in this, more than any other of the arts and sciences, though I believe the ambitious beginner will find the way smoother; better materials are to be had, more helpful publications to be consulted and the lessening supply of wild life tends to make a more appreciative public than ever before.
SKINNING THE GAME HEAD
When beginning to skin the game head cut around shoulders (No. 1 incision) first.
To avoid slashing any hair have one person part the hair ahead of you while you punch the skinning knife through skin at top of shoulder ridge and slit along from inside outward with edge of blade out. When one side is incised from top of ridge down to middle of brisket, return to top on other side and complete No. 1.
Now make No. 2 incision, starting at top of shoulder ridge with knife edge up.
Push knife along evenly until you come to place where point of V incision is shown in drawing on page 4.
Lead each branch of V incision No. 3 to rear center of antler burrs.
Before loosening skin around antler burrs, go back to corners where No. 1 and No. 2 incisions meet and start peeling skin away from neck at the corners, using butcher knife. Complete skinning one side of neck.
Cut no holes in skin.
Return to other rear upper corner and skin other side of neck. It helps to have one man take hold of edge of skin and hold skin back while skinning goes on.
After both sides of neck are completely skinned clear down over brisket and forward on under side of throat, slice ear butts away close to skull, then, with knife and axe, sever head from neck at atlas and remove head to handier place to work.
Loosen skin from under antler burrs with pocket knife and chisel, using great care not to haggle skin.
Peel skin down over forehead, sides of face and jaws, cutting close to bone of eye sockets when severing eye lids.
Leave entire eyelid linings on skin.
Skin down upper lip and nostrils, leaving most of linings attached to skin.
Peel chin and lower lip same way.
Split linings of eyelids, lips and nostrils to almost their edges with pocket knife.
Skin backs of ears out carefully, turning inside out like a sock, then peel the cartilages out completely.
Cut away ear butt meat from cartilages and rub cartilages with Borax for drying to keep.
FLESHING THE SCALP
OR CAPE
Put on your oilcloth apron.
Lay scalp over log beam, shoulder end upward, flesh side up. Using beaming knife or draw shave with pushing motion, scrape all fat and flesh from skin. A rough, not too keen edge on the beamer is best.
Pull skin up over beam as you progress with fleshing, leaning against it to hold it in place. Use pocket knife and skinning knife for working out details of face, using great care not to slash any holes.
For the smaller details a smoothed billet of hard wood comes in handy, used like a darning ball.
PRESERVING THE CAPE
Joseph Bruchac’s preserving method is by far the best procedure I have yet heard of.
In this process Salt and Borax are used in 50-50 combination.
The scalp is spread on floor with flesh side up and the Salt-Borax mixture is rubbed in thoroughly. Then the scalp is hung by its rear margin, face toward floor, from a line stretched across an open space in a well ventilated shed or a barn loft and allowed to dry out completely. Juices drain down over face and nose as drying proceeds.
Scalps thus prepared and dried may be readily stored until wanted for dressing and mounting.
I have handled scalps from the Taxidermy Shop of Mr. Bruchac, which were cured by the foregoing method and found them to work out sound and perfect.
So I will give the process preference over any straight Borax or straight Salt method I have heretofore described.
I am now convinced beyond any doubt that undried, Boraxed or Salted Scalps should not be rolled up for storage or shipment.
PREPARING THE CAPE
FOR MOUNTING
The commercial tanner knows how to handle salt cured skins and he has facilities for putting them through all the necessary processing prior to leathering. This work is complex and we will not attempt a description of it here. If you are not an expert in dressing skins, then by all means let a professional do your work!
When sending scalps to a tanner always require that ear cartilages be saved and attached to scalps to which they belong.
In preparing to dress your scalps personally, soak the dried scalps in cool, fresh water, to soften and remove salt.
After the skin has been skived
to desired thinness on a beam with a turnedged skiving knife, immerse it in a tan-mothproofing pickle of borax saturate solution, (approx. 1 handful borax to 1 qt. water), plus 3/4 fl. oz. of 37%