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    Cabochon Jewelry Making
    Cabochon Jewelry Making
    Cabochon Jewelry Making
    Ebook142 pages1 hour

    Cabochon Jewelry Making

    By Arthur Sanger

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    About this ebook

    In this book Arthur Sanger gives sound instructions and advice on the fine art of making Cabochon jewelry.
    It is not intended to teach all the techniques involved in jewelry making just those associated with Cabochon and some general practices. It is presumed that readers will have some experience in the use of small hand tools, soldering torches, etc.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateJan 17, 2013
    ISBN9781447483038
    Cabochon Jewelry Making

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      Book preview

      Cabochon Jewelry Making - Arthur Sanger

      Introduction

      IT IS not intended here to teach all the techniques involved in jewelry making. It is presumed that readers will have some experience in the use of small hand tools, soldering torches, etc.

      Silver is commonly referred to as the material used. Silver is a good medium for the beginner; it works well, it is quite durable, and it is not too expensive in small projects. Gold is much more expensive, even in the 10-carat grade, harder to shape, and must be soldered with a solder designed for the carat gold used.

      All instructions are given for right-handed persons.

      Some of the material used in these projects has been described by us in the Rocks and Minerals Magazine (Peekskill, N. Y.) and Lapidary Journal (Los Angeles), the editors of which have given permission for the use of these ideas here.

      ARTHUR AND LUCILLE SANGER

      CHAPTER ONE

      General Instructions

      Making the Design

      IN MAKING jewelry, the first thing to do is to make a design for the stone mounting. Lay the stone on a sheet of paper and draw around it. See Figure 1, left. Fill a whole sheet of paper with drawings of the stone, if you are fishing for an idea. This is not necessary where a design is already in mind. Around each drawing of the stone, sketch some simple designs, or parts of designs, if it is a repeat motif. See Figure 1, center. It is better to use curved lines, especially for the beginner, than angular ones, as the curved lines will arrange themselves in pleasing fashion. When the design is made in line drawing it can be filled in solid for piercing or repousse, or left as is for making up in wire. See Figure 1, right.

      Making Bezels

      The band of metal immediately surrounding a stpne and holding the stone by means of cement, prongs, or by crimping the metal over the edge of the stone, is called the bezel.

      Bezels can be made of prefabricated, plain or fancy, bezel wire, which has an offset or step (see Plate 1) on which the stone rests and which is purchased by the foot—or in larger quantities by the ounce. Alternatively, bezels may be made of sterling sheet silver, 26 gauge, cut into strips.

      Figure 1. Left—Outline of stone drawn on paper ready for design. Center—Partial design for repousse. Right—Partial design worked out in round wire.

      To make a bezel, measure the circumference of the stone by rolling it out one full turn on a piece of paper or on a cloth tape measure. If paper is used, measure with a ruler the length traversed by the stone and this tells you how much of the bezel material to cut off.

      Bend the bezel strips around the stone. See Plate 3. If necessary, cut off more of the band to make a snug fit. The bezel joint can be cut vertically or diagonally, whichever gives the individual best results. See Plate 2. When the bezel has been cut to fit, see that both sides of the joint come together without gaps. Bend the ends of the joint past each other. When they spring back again, they will have a slight compressive tension and will stay perfectly fitted to each other while being soldered. See Plate 4. When soldered, the bezel must lie flat on a flat surface, so that it touches the surface it rests on all around its circumference.

      Soldering Point

      This seems as good a place as any to insert instructions on the making and use of the soldering point. This is a very important tool, as, in effect, it provides the worker with a hand which can touch the work delicately right in the heat of the torch. Take a heavy iron wire (for example, the bottom straight piece of a coat hanger), and bend a ring at one end for hanging it up when not in use. At the other end, file a very long, tapered point and bend the pointed end at right angles about 1 1/2 inches from the tip of the point. This tool is then ready for use. See Plate 4.

      PLATE 1. Step on inside of bezel wire. PLATE 2. Two types of joints for bezel wire and decorations on the wire.

      This point is used in the left hand for picking up solder and placing it where needed. Snippets of solder about 1/16 inch square are placed on the upper-right-hand corner of the asbestos soldering pad and scattered sufficiently so that the heat melts only the piece being picked up. Place the point of the tool on a piece of solder and then throw the heat on it. When the solder melts, it will cling to the point, which can then be lifted and the solder carried with it. Then throw the heat on the joint being soldered, holding the wire point and solder in the outer rim of the heat so that it stays warm enough to melt quickly when needed, and at the same time will not be oxidized by excess heat while you are waiting for the joint to heat. When the joint is cherry red, bring the solder to it. Wait for it to spread quickly along the joint; then remove the heat.

      PLATE 3. Stone resting in bezel wire.

      Solder

      Solder for silversmithing comes in sheet form, wire form, or ready cut into tiny squares. It is also supplied in various hardnesses; the harder the grade, the higher the temperature required to melt it.

      Use two grades, one hard and the other of easy-flow quality. The harder solder is for the first joint of an article which will need to be reheated for later soldering steps. If the same grade is used, the first joint is likely to come open when the second joint is being soldered.

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