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    The Photographic Guide to Pruning Fruit Trees
    The Photographic Guide to Pruning Fruit Trees
    The Photographic Guide to Pruning Fruit Trees
    Ebook90 pages54 minutes

    The Photographic Guide to Pruning Fruit Trees

    By Ephraim Porter Felt

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    About this ebook

    This antiquarian volume contains an accessible and concise guide to pruning, with information on the correct methods for pruning rose trees, fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, and many other plants commonly found in the garden. Written in simple, clear language and profusely illustrated, this text will be of considerable utility to anyone with an interest in gardening, and it would make for a great addition to collections of gardening literature. Although old, the information contained within its pages is timeless, and will be of as much service to modern readers as it was when first published. We are republishing this vintage text now in an affordable, modern edition - complete with a specially commissioned biography of the author.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateJan 4, 2013
    ISBN9781447482963
    The Photographic Guide to Pruning Fruit Trees

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      Book preview

      The Photographic Guide to Pruning Fruit Trees - Ephraim Porter Felt

      Trees

      FRUIT TREES

      The prime object of growing fruit trees on a commercial scale is the production of fruit. Large crops of high quality are requisites and pruning of both young and old trees should be done with this in mind.

      A really satisfactory fruit tree must be strong enough to withstand all but the most severe storms, stocky enough to carry a load of fruit, even a heavy load, and open enough to permit the production of perfect or nearly perfect, usually well colored fruit. These objectives are somewhat different from those desired in shade and ornamental trees and the pruning of the fruit tree should be modified accordingly.

      First Four Years Formative

      The first four years of the newly planted apple tree are utilized largely in shaping the tree and the proper development of the larger branches which are to bear the crop. The next four to seven years is a transition period from the growth of main limbs to the development of fruiting wood. The time when fruiting commences is determined in considerable measure by the treatment of the tree during this period. A vigorous, almost excessive growth is unfavorable to the development of fruit buds and it is sometimes necessary to check the growth of young trees in order to induce fruiting. Heavy winter pruning simply aggravates the difficulty. The most feasible solution in case the terminal growth is twenty to thirty inches long would be summer pruning in the middle of June or early July, cutting back to where new laterals are desired. It may even be desirable in the case of a tree with a few unusually vigorous branches to pinch these back for the time being, thus equalizing the growth. This system may well be followed through several seasons, doing the heading back in June and most of the thinning in winter.

      Clipping back in early summer forces the growth in desirable new laterals rather than permitting it to produce excessively long tips which must be cut back the following spring.

      Pruning Young Trees. The shape of the fruiting tree is determined in large measure by early pruning. A strong tree with a good framework, usually of three to five branches, is preferable. This is true whether the tree is headed at two to three feet or even higher.

      Low Heading

      The low head is greatly preferred by many commercial growers since it makes pruning, spraying and harvesting relatively easy and permits the growth of as large or nearly as large crops on a given area. It is true that the taller tree, sometimes known as the two-story tree, will produce more fruit per acre for a time, but as the distance between the trees lessen owing to the spread of the tops, the lower branches produce less fruit or poorly colored fruit and unless this is rigidly controlled, eventually there will be shading out and high tops with no more or but little more fruiting capacity than with the low top. This latter condition is seen in many older orchards. The growing of fruit on such trees adds materially to the cost of pruning, spraying, and picking, and quite frequently means a greater proportion of second or third class apples due to poorer control of insects and fungous troubles and more serious damage to dropping fruit.

      FIG. 58.—How to Handle a Young Forked Tree.

      When the limbs occur below the natural head they should be cut off as close to the trunk as possible, unless they are so large that the cut will make a dangerous wound. Then they should be shortened to a

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