The Complete Guide to Finding the Birds of Australia

STATES AND TERRITORIES

1. Victoria

Australia’s smallest mainland state is one of the country’s best birding destinations and boasts a stellar 520 bird species. It has a great selection of habitats, which are all within easy reach of the capital, Melbourne. Extensive mallee national parks, such as Hattah-Kulkyne and Wyperfeld, are important for Malleefowl, Striated Grasswren, Mallee Emu-wren, Red-lored Whistler and Southern Scrub-robin. The continental shelf is within 30 km of the south-west coast, giving the state one of the best seabird tallies in the world. The north-east ironbark forests are an important winter food resource for Regent Honeyeater, as well as other honeyeaters, and the mountainous east features pockets of dense wet forest where Superb Lyrebird and Powerful Owl are relatively common. Mudflats in Port Phillip and Westernport bays attract thousands of migratory waders between October and March and a disproportionate number of rarities have been recorded in Victoria. The state is also an important wintering ground for two rare Tasmanian migrants: Orange-bellied and Swift Parrots. Bushfires occur during most summers, but hot spells rarely last for long and are usually broken by cool fronts every few days. Winters are cool and wet, especially in the south and east. The best birding times are winter for seabirding and the migratory parrots, spring for returning migrants and summer for wader-watching. If you are planning to visit the Deniliquin area in southern NSW (3.17), note that it is far closer to Melbourne than to Sydney.

Helmeted Honeyeater, the state’s faunal emblem, is the large, distinctive endemic subspecies cassidix of Yellow-tufted Honeyeater. It is rare and mainly restricted to the Yellingbo Nature Conservation Reserve about 50 km east of Melbourne; visit www.helmetedhoneyeater.org.au/ for more information and the possibility of joining volunteer work to help this endangered subspecies.

Endemics: Helmeted Honeyeater (race cassidix of Yellow-tufted Honeyeater)

Specialities: Malleefowl, Freckled Duck, Cape Barren Goose, Swift Parrot (winter), Blue-winged Parrot, Orange-bellied Parrot (winter), Hooded Plover, Plains-wanderer, Regent Parrot, Striated Grasswren, Mallee Emu-wren, Rufous Bristlebird, Regent Honeyeater, Painted Honeyeater, Black Honeyeater, Red-lored Whistler

A MELBOURNE AREA

Although Melbourne is Australia’s second-largest metropolis, it makes an excellent base for some of the best birding in Australia. The city boasts all the known comforts of civilisation, but is also close to a diverse range of habitats including magnificent wet forests and excellent wetlands that attract thousands of migratory waders annually. An impressive list of rarities has accumulated over the years, all within an hour or so of the central business district (CBD), including Spotted Redshank, Baird’s, Stilt and Buff-breasted Sandpipers, Asian Dowitcher and Ringed and Little Ringed Plovers, although in reality you’d have a better chance of seeing Orange-bellied Parrot, Red-necked Phalarope, Hudsonian Godwit, Little Stint, Long-toed Stint and Oriental Pratincole (check http://birding-aus.org for sightings and updates). Pacific Gull is resident on bayside beaches at St Kilda (tram No 96 from the city centre) and Port Melbourne (tram No 109).

1.01 ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS

Key species: Powerful Owl, Nankeen Night-Heron

The Royal Botanic Gardens are a 20-minute walk from Melbourne CBD and sometimes a very good site for Powerful Owl, which prey on the gardens’ abundant possums. The owls are not resident and turn up in parks all over the inner city, generally in winter and spring (check http://birding-aus.org for the latest sightings). When they are present, they are generally easy to see. The most reliable site in the gardens is the Fern Gully, where they often roost in large trees overhanging the path. Gardens staff should know if the birds are around, but pot luck may work as well. The nearest gate to the Fern Gully is Gate E on Birdwood Ave., close to the No 8 tramline from the city. Otherwise, the gardens’ large ornamental lake is good for Hardhead and Australasian Grebe. Nankeen Night-Heron is always present in winter and sometimes during the rest of the year as well; they often roost in willows at the western end of the lake and on the main island in the middle.

1.02 DANDENONG RANGES NATIONAL PARK

Key species: Powerful Owl, Superb Lyrebird

Some of south-eastern Australia’s spectacular tall, wet forests are showcased an hour or so from Melbourne in the Dandenong Ranges NP, 36 km east of the CBD. Superb Lyrebird is hard to miss here, especially in winter when males are in full song. One of the best areas to track down this famous bird is at Kallista: follow the Burwood Hwy east to Belgrave then turn left onto Monbulk Rd at the roundabout. About 5 km along here you’ll get to Grant’s Picnic Ground; lyrebirds are nearly always in the vicinity and even poke around the car park, where you will be treated to the spectacle of hand-tame Australian King-Parrot and Crimson Rosella, among other parrots. Another good spot is Sherbrooke Forest picnic ground: continue a few hundred metres north up Monbulk Rd then swing left at the roundabout onto Sherbrooke Rd; follow it for about 2.5 km to Sherbrooke Picnic Ground. From here take the O’Donohue Track and any of its side tracks for Superb Lyrebird. The birds could be seen anywhere on the trails and calling males are easy to locate in winter; be warned that the trails can be infested with joggers – get there early. These forests are good for many wet forest birds, such as Gang-gang Cockatoo and Yellow-tailed Black-Cockatoo, White-throated and Red-browed Treecreepers, Rufous Fantail (summer), Olive Whistler, Satin Flycatcher (summer), Pink Robin, Bassian Thrush and Pilotbird. (Greater) Sooty Owl is present but rather cryptic – roosting in dense gullies – and you’ll probably have more luck with Powerful Owl: from the main park entrance ranger station on Dandenong Tourist Rd (about 1 km east of Upper Ferntree Gully train station) walk about 250 m past the park entrance pillars to where the trail splits into three; Powerful Owl has been seen by spotlighting along the centre and right-hand trails.

1.03 WERRIBEE (WESTERN TREATMENT PLANT)

Key species: Australasian Bittern, Freckled Duck, Blue-billed Duck, Cape Barren Goose, Black Falcon, Lewin’s Rail, Australian Spotted Crake, Wood Sandpiper, Double-banded Plover, Banded Lapwing, Pacific Gull, Fairy Tern, Orange-bellied Parrot, Blue-winged Parrot, Striated Fieldwren

Known officially as the Western Treatment Plant and run by Melbourne Water, this vast complex of natural and artificial wetlands on the south-western outskirts of Melbourne is known to birders the world over simply as Werribee. It has attained legendary status for its excellent year-round birding and amazing pulling power for rarities. Access is by permit only, obtainable through Melbourne Water (www.melbournewater.com.au; tel. (03) 9235 7100) and well worth it. A good map is necessary to get around because you could easily get lost among the maze of ponds and levees (check the website for a download). A key is required to access the plant and to pass through internal gates to reach some of the best areas, while some parts of the complex are out of bounds altogether.

Assuming you have obtained a key and permit, the easiest access is by taking the Point Wilson turn-off from the Princes Hwy (A1) about 45 km south-west from Melbourne. About 1.5 km from the slip road, a (usually) locked gate on the left marks Paradise Rd (unsignposted). This unsealed road passes through fields (dotted with migrating Flame Robin in early winter) and skirts the northern edge of Lake Borrie to the shallow Paradise Rd lagoons. The raised bund makes an excellent vantage point from which to view waders at high tide: among many ducks, expect regular Glossy Ibis plus Bar-tailed Godwit, Marsh Sandpiper, Black-necked and Banded Stilts and Red-necked Avocet. ‘Regular’ Australian rarities such as Rednecked Phalarope have turned up here, and the surrounding wet grasslands sometimes attract Pectoral Sandpiper, Long-toed Stint and (very rarely) Buff-breasted Sandpiper. Lake Borrie immediately to the south always hosts Australian Pelican, wildfowl such as Australian Shelduck, Grey and Chestnut Teals, Pink-eared Duck and Australasian Shoveler, and is reliable in winter for the endangered Freckled Duck. Indeed, at times, Werribee hosts up to 200 000 waterfowl and rarities have included Northern Shoveler and Garganey. Other Borrie waterbirds include up to four cormorant species, the occasional Australasian Darter, and Whiskered and White-winged Black Terns in season. Adjacent settling ponds always hold Blue-billed and Musk Ducks. Fringing reedbeds are thick with Golden-headed Cisticola and Australian Reed-Warbler, and often reward patient observers with sightings of Australasian Bittern (chiefly in winter).

Heading east a few hundred metres brings you to the Little River and a T-intersection; take the road to the left (north) before crossing a ford (good for Black-tailed Native-hen). Follow it to the right (east) along the river’s north bank and scan the opposite shore (especially under overhanging vegetation) for crakes and rails at low tide. Australian Spotted, Spotless and Baillon’s Crakes and Buff-banded Rail are common here, especially on a falling tide, and Lewin’s Rail has also been recorded. Park at the river mouth and scan the waders flitting in as the tide drops – among the flocks of Curlew Sandpiper and Red-necked Stint are even larger numbers of Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, plus Bar-tailed Godwit and occasional Great and Red Knots; Double-banded Plover are common in winter (Feb–Aug). Little Penguins may be in the river mouth. Pacific Gull also roosts here and watch for Fairy and Little Terns winging past. The bird hide on the south side of the Little River mouth (accessed by turning right at the T-intersection back at Paradise Rd) lists recent sightings and is a good place to watch the parade of waders.

Travelling north-east towards Melbourne along the bay’s edge, rank ditches and shallow scoops sometimes host more waders and, in late summer, crakes and rails on drying ponds. The Borrow Pits are well-known for Wood Sandpiper (summer) and Black-tailed Native-hen, Glossy Ibis, Pectoral Sandpiper and Long-toed Stint. Werribee also features abundant raptors, including scavenging Whistling and Black Kites; plus Little Eagle, Brown Goshawk, Collared Sparrowhawk and Wedge-tailed Eagle that could turn up anywhere on the farm. This is also the most reliable site in southern Victoria for White-bellied Sea-Eagle. Nankeen Kestrel and Brown Falcon are usually common, and watch for Peregrine and Black Falcons harassing waders.

Werribee possibly now offers the best opportunity to see the rare Orange-bellied Parrot (Apr–Jun) outside of its summer breeding grounds in Tasmania (see 2.14). Possibly as few as 10 birds are recorded annually; it is sometimes seen on levees near Lake Borrie, but Borrow Pit 270S and vicinity has been the most reliable site in recent years. Contact Birds Australia for information on annual OBP counts, which welcome volunteers.

Back on the Point Wilson road, about 5.5 km past the Paradise Rd gate, a road leads left towards Port Phillip Bay (signposted ‘boat ramp’). Just before you reach the shore, a dirt track leading south (right) to Kirk’s Point is brilliant for Striated Fieldwren. The turnaround at the end of this track (obvious near a trig point) is a high tide roost for Pacific Golden Plover. Scan the shores beyond the trig point for Fairy Tern. South along the shore, but tantalisingly out of reach for most visiting birders, The Spit Nature Reserve supports stands of saltmarsh habitat for wintering Orange-bellied Parrot (OBP), as well as waders (including Pectoral Sandpiper) at low tide, and Lewin’s Rail. Access to The Spit is strictly restricted, but you may be able to join an OBP or wader count (contact Birds Australia) and get lucky.

The southern end of the farm features Austin Rd Lagoon: a rather exposed wetland that is typically swarming with ducks, pelican and large waders at high tide. Other goodies that frequent this area are Magpie Goose, Cape Barren Goose and Brolga, and past drop-ins have included Oriental Pratincole, Stilt Sandpiper and Hudsonian Godwit. Further on, where the road reaches the entrance to Point Wilson Restricted Area, search the samphire flats for Blue-winged Parrot and adjacent grassland for Stubble and Brown Quails.

Doubling back, the western continuation of the Point Kirk road leads past Avalon airfield – search the cattle paddocks north of the road for Banded Lapwing. Black Falcon sometimes perch on fences or roadside trees. Follow this road west to reach the Geelong Freeway – turn left for Geelong and the Great Ocean Road and right for Melbourne.

1.04 YOU YANGS REGIONAL PARK

Key species: Painted Button-quail, Purple-crowned Lorikeet, Swift Parrot, White-browed Woodswallow, Diamond Firetail

This 352 m-high granite range forms an obvious landmark on the flat basalt plains south-west of Melbourne. To get there, take the Little River exit from the Princes Freeway (M1) 40 km from Melbourne CBD; the park entrance is well signposted and 15 km from the freeway via the Little River township. The mixed dry forest of Yellow and Manna Gum supports a good variety of common woodland birds and many Koalas. The south-east corner of the park (to the right of the entrance area), is reliable for Little Eagle, Painted Button-quail, Dusky Woodswallow, Speckled Warbler and Diamond Firetail. Winter blossom in this area attracts Musk, Purple-crowned and Little Lorikeets, as well as Swift Parrot; and summer visitors include Rainbow Bee-eater and Restless Flycatcher. Tawny Frogmouth can nearly always be found roosting near the entrance complex and Common Bronzewing and White-winged Chough are common along all park roads. Sightings of Eastern Grey Kangaroo and Echidna are a good bet. Note that camping is not permitted.

1.05 PHILLIP ISLAND

Key species: Little Penguin, Short-tailed Shearwater, Cape Barren Goose, Hooded Plover

This holiday island 125 km south-east of Melbourne hosts one of the country’s greatest tourist attractions – the nightly Penguin Parade, where Little Penguin returning to their nest burrows wander up the beach from the surf. If you visit in winter, there are fewer tourists and you won’t have to wait so long for dusk when the penguins appear. Short-tailed Shearwater (‘muttonbirds’) wing overhead in summer at dusk. Much of the island is farmland, but Cape Barren Goose is common in fields near Cowes (the main town) – try along Pyramid Rock Rd, around the speedway, around the fields just before the entrance to the Penguin Parade and in open areas along the main Phillip Island Rd from San Remo. Woolamai Beach is one of several beaches supporting pairs of Hooded Plover, although this is a popular surfing spot and the birds may retreat to the cover of dunes when the beach is crowded. Shelly Beach is another option for this species. A huge colony of Australian Fur-seal is the main attraction at the far western end of the island: visible on Seal Rocks from a rocky headland known as The Nobbies. Follow the boardwalk to the left for Kelp Gull (common) and Pacific Gull; while Common (summer), Arctic (spring) and White-fronted (winter) Terns loaf on the rocks. With a spotting scope, you should pick up Black-faced Cormorant on Seal Rocks but it’s a good kilometre offshore – tour boats will get you in for a closer look. Phillip Island is well-signposted along the South Gippsland and Bass highways from Melbourne.

1.06 JERRINGOT RESERVE

Key species: Latham’s Snipe

On the southern outskirts of Geelong, Jerringot Reserve is a small marshland and a great place to see Latham’s Snipe on the deck, rather than breaking from cover. Shortly after crossing the Barwon River heading south on the M1, turn left onto Barwon Heads Rd; the reserve is immediately on your left. The snipe are here each year between August and March, and groups of up to 100 have been seen at a time. Scan the grassy marsh north of the bird hide or walk along Barwon Heads Rd for an elevated perspective. The reed-fringed pond can be good for crakes and rails when the muddy edges are exposed.

1.07 POINT HENRY SALTWORKS

Key species: Banded Stilt

If you have trouble locating it elsewhere, it would be worth checking the extensive salt evaporation ponds at Point Henry for Banded Stilt. Note that the birds are not always there, but, when they are, they tend to be on the western side of the saltworks, often with Red-necked Avocet. From Geelong, follow the signs east to Port Arlington along the Geelong–Port Arlington road (C123). The saltworks start on your left at the junction of Boundary Rd – you could try looking through the link fence along this stretch, but the best access is on Point Henry Rd about 2.5 km along on the left. Note that this is private property – you will need a scope to scan the extensive wetlands for the stilts while parked on the perimeter. In summer there are usually lots of other waders here, including Latham’s Snipe and Common Greenshank.

B SOUTH-WESTERN VICTORIA

Victoria’s south-west coast is cool, windswept and wet, with rugged scenery and extensive coastal heathland. Starting at Geelong, the Great Ocean Road (B100) is a very scenic route that follows the coastline west to Warrnambool and passes several good birding areas, including the key sites for the near endemic Rufous Bristlebird. Its most famous attraction is the Twelve Apostles (although only about seven are now left!): a cluster of eroded sea stacks in Port Campbell NP where a moulting Erect-crested Penguin turned up in 1997 in front of hundreds of oblivious Japanese tourists. Small coastal towns along the way have all facilities and there are some great camping spots. The south-western ports of Port Fairy and Portland are close to the continental shelf and have been the starting point for excellent pelagic seabird trips (10.01) for many years.

1.08 GREAT OCEAN ROAD

Key species: Grey Goshawk (white phase), Blue-winged Parrot, Rufous Bristlebird, Chestnut-rumped Heathwren

Rufous Bristlebird inhabits the coastal heath and scrub between Point Addis and Peterborough, and is readily seen at a number of scenic pull-ins. The cliff-top paths around Airey’s Inlet lighthouse are good; turn left at the bottom of the hill 800 m after passing the town’s small shopping centre and follow the signs to the lighthouse car park. Walk left (north) along the cliff; Rufous Bristlebird is common in the heath (though beware of introduced Common Blackbird scuttling about in the undergrowth). Other reliable spots include Loch Ard Gorge, The Arch (about 5 km west of Port Campbell) and London Bridge (3 km west of The Arch) where the birds feed at the edge of the bitumen in the car parks. The other specialty in the area is Blue-winged Parrot, which can usually be seen at all these sites. Sometimes large flocks occur in the Port Campbell area and these birds are often seen while driving through heathy parts of the Great Ocean Road. This is also a good area for Brush Bronzewing and Olive Whistler.

Heathland in the Bald Hills behind Anglesea is good for Chestnut-rumped Heathwren and Striated Fieldwren. From the first roundabout at Anglesea, turn right onto Camp Rd; after 2 km turn left at the Coalmine Track and follow it to a T-junction. Turn right onto Bald Hills Rd then take the Peregrine Track another kilometre along on the right. Walk or drive slowly along the Peregrine Track, getting out to listen for calling birds at intervals, or walk uphill through the heath towards the Alcoa Boundary Track. This area is also good for Southern Emu-wren and Scarlet Robin.

The section of Great Otway NP near Airey’s Inlet is excellent for Powerful Owl and Gang-gang Cockatoo. Just past the lighthouse turn-off at the foot of the hill, turn right into Bambra Rd and follow it for 2.2 km until you come to a good stand of Yellow Box forest on the left. The owls breed in this forest, which is thick with Sugar and Yellow-bellied Gliders. Spotlight along the dirt road and forest trails, including the 400 m to Distillery Creek Picnic Area and along the Loves Track, which starts on the left about 3.5 km further along Bambra Rd. Southern Boobook is an added attraction and the guttural, pig-like mating noises of Koalas may be heard while spotlighting.

Some of the beaches along the Great Ocean Road are good for Hooded Plover, including Point Roadknight, just west of Anglesea (where Blue-winged Parrot and Rufous Bristlebird can also be seen) and the beach at the east end of Apollo Bay. Logan’s Beach, east of Warrnambool, is reliable for Sanderling.

It’s worth spending a few days exploring the various attractions along the Great Ocean Road, but if returning to Melbourne you can save time by following the less winding Princes Hwy (A1) from Warrnambool. On the way, be on the lookout for the beautiful white phase of Grey Goshawk near Floating Islands Lagoon: an outcrop of jumbled volcanic boulders near Stoneyford on the Princes Hwy, about 25 km east of Camperdown. This is a fairly reliable location – scan the trees from the highway for perched birds. Alternatively, the Ralf Illidge Sanctuary 20 km west of Cobden on the Cobden–Warrnambool road (C167) is also reliable for this bird.

1.09 PORTLAND AND DISTRICT

Key species: Australasian and Cape Gannets, Lewin’s Rail, Hooded Plover, Sanderling, Long-billed Corella

Lawrence Rocks, an eroded stack 2 km south-east of Portland, is a rookery of some 6000 Australasian Gannet (easily seen from shore year-round). A few years ago the excess gannets from Lawrence Rocks started a new colony at Point Danger (signposted 6 km south of Portland) that is currently the only mainland colony in Australia. Of extra interest are several Cape Gannet that periodically attempt to nest here and Black-faced Cormorant is normally present.

Fawthrop Lagoon on Portland’s western margin is a neat tidal wetland surrounded with samphire and reeds. A boardwalk overlooking the western edge is a very reliable spot for the elusive Lewin’s Rail (best in summer) plus the more common Buff-banded Rail and Spotless Crake. Vegetated edges are excellent for Little Grassbird, and the lagoon itself hosts plenty of waterbirds. Long-billed Corella feed on spilt grain in the adjacent railway yard.

Non-seabird rarities that have cropped up in the district over the years have included a White Wagtail (M. a. lugens) at Portland meatworks and a Grey Phalarope at Port Fairy, 70 km to the east. A spate of vagrant subantarctic penguins during the 1990s included both ‘Royal’ Macaroni and Erect-crested Penguins at Cape Bridgewater; a Fiordland Penguin landed at Killarney Beach near Port Fairy in January 2000; and there are also old records of Rockhopper Penguin from Discovery Bay. Try walking nearby beaches in February–March or keeping your ear to the ground for local knowledge, or look on http://birding-aus.org. Killarney Beach is an excellent spot for Sanderling (summer) and Hooded Plover (year-round), and has also hosted a wandering Elephant Seal; Logan’s Beach is also good for Sanderling.

C WESTERN VICTORIA

Much of north-western Victoria’s mallee has been cleared; fortunately several reserves preserve extensive stands where most of the mallee specialities can be found. The mallee is a delight in winter and spring, but it gets very hot in summer when bird activity is greatly reduced and the flies can be maddening. Several parks, such as Wyperfeld and Hattah, experience a feral bee problem during the warmer months. On no account should you wander far into mallee without a compass or GPS, because it is very easy to get disoriented and lost.

1.10 CASTLEMAINE–MUCKLEFORD AREA

Key species: Swift Parrot, Chestnut-rumped Heathwren

In recent years, flowering eucalypts on a golf course just west of Castlemaine have proven reasonably reliable for Swift Parrot in winter. From Castlemaine, head west on the Castlemaine–Newstead road (B180) and after about 4 km turn right into Golf Links Rd. After about 600 m the road crosses a small creek; the golf course is another 100 m along on the left. Swift Parrot is often in flowering eucalypts to the right of the 17th tee between April and August, depending on rainfall and flowering condition. The Muckleford area can also be good for this species: head north-west on the Castlemaine–Maldon road (C282) and turn left at Pullan’s Rd after about 8 km for the Muckleford Nature Conservation Reserve. The Yellow Gum-box-ironbark association is good for Swift Parrot and check the heathy understorey for Chestnut-rumped Heathwren.

1.11 CLUNES AREA

Key species: Australian Painted Snipe, Painted Honeyeater

A small stand of ironbark north of Clunes is one of Victoria’s best sites for Painted Honeyeater, especially during late spring (Oct–Nov). The best site is found by heading north from Clunes on the C287 towards Maryborough. About 7 km from the town centre, there’s a dirt track on the left and a sign for Dunach Nature Conservation Reserve. Follow this track for about 700 m until you reach a gate on the left; about 200 m further, the track stops at a railway line. Look and listen in this area as there are many eucalypts infested with mistletoe on both sides of the fence. Painted Honeyeaters are usually found here when the mistletoe flowers in spring. Note that the area over the fence is private property – do not enter without permission.

In past years, the shallow swamp at Merin Merin State Game Reserve has been a good site for Australian Painted Snipe, although in drought years it is usually dry. To get there, take the Campbellfield road north-east from Clunes. About 3 km from Clunes centre, turn left at the Clunes–Mt Cameron Rd and follow it for 7 km, bearing right where the road forks, till you reach a dirt lane on the left with a stockyard and derelict house on the corner. Park near a small dam about 2 km along the lane and walk down to the swamp through the Red Gums. If present, the snipe feed among marshy vegetation. Note that the occurrence of this bird is highly unpredictable – check http://birding-aus.org for recent sightings.

1.12 WESTERN HIGHWAY

Key species: Long-billed Corella

The Western Hwy (A8) between Ballarat and Horsham cuts right through the core range of the Long-billed Corella; the section between Buangor and Horsham is particularly good. Huge flocks are regularly encountered feeding in fields near the highway and often in association with Little Corella and Sulphur-crested Cockatoo. If you have no luck along the highway, detour to Hall’s Gap in the Grampians (Gariwerd) NP, where Long-billed Corella is common around the township.

1.13 LITTLE DESERT NATIONAL PARK

Key species: Purple-gaped Honeyeater, Southern Scrub-robin, Slender-billed Thornbill

‘Desert’ is perhaps an overstatement, but this national park protects 132 000 ha of semiarid heath that can be excellent for several arid-zone honeyeaters in winter and spring. The easy option is to stay at the Little Desert Lodge (www.littledesertlodge.com.au; tel. (03) 5391 5232), 16 km south of Nhill. The Stringybark Walk nearby is good for Southern Scrub-robin, Tawny crowned and White-fronted Honeyeaters, and there’s a chance of Purple-gaped Honeyeater. Slender-billed Thornbill is uncommon, but occurs in roadside heath south of the lodge along the Nhill–Harrow road.

Another good site is the Kiata Campground where all the preceding birds are regularly seen. To get there, turn south at Kiata (25 km west of Dimboola); the turn-off to the campground is 8 km from there on the left (2WD is generally fine). The walking trails from the campground offer good birding: the Salt Lake Track passes through mallee broombush habitat favoured by Purple-gaped Honeyeater and the Red Gum Loop has Southern Scrub-robin and Red-capped Robin. Listen out for Black-eared Cuckoo in spring. A Malleefowl mound at the nearby Keith Hateley Nature Walk has been used sporadically over the past 20 years, but you are probably just as likely to see this bird wandering through the campground.

1.14 WYPERFELD NATIONAL PARK

Key species: Emu, Malleefowl, Chestnut Quail-thrush, Redthroat

Wyperfeld was Victoria’s first mallee national park and, since its declaration in 1909, has been expanded to protect 357 000 ha of mallee, Red Gum and box forest, and heathland. The park is notable for its large Malleefowl population and features good stands of mature mallee with most of the mallee specialists, although some are easier to see elsewhere. Access is easiest through the southern park entrance, signposted 43 km west from Hopetoun or about 40 km north from Rainbow. From the entrance it’s 9 km to Wonga Campground and the park information centre (Blue Bonnet and White-browed Woodswallow (summer) are regularly seen along this stretch). There is accommodation in Hopetoun and Rainbow, but you’re better off using the excellent campground facilities in the park itself. Wyperfeld gets busy during school holidays and, as in several other mallee parks, there is a feral bee problem during the warmer months – take care near water sources and when drinking, particularly from sugared drinks.

The main birding area is along the 15 km Eastern Lookout Nature Drive, which is a one-way dirt track (generally suitable for 2WDs) starting and finishing at the information centre. Numbered wooden posts mark a self-guiding nature trail, but the key area is the extensive stand of mallee between the Dattuck (at post 9) and Lowan Track turn-offs. Just 100 m past post 10, the Malleefowl Walk traverses an excellent stand of mallee with good visibility for birding and an old Malleefowl mound. Early morning is the best time to see Malleefowl, but they don’t tend their mounds much between March and May – it’s worth checking with rangers for active mounds so as not to waste time. This area is good for Chestnut Quail-thrush, Southern Scrub-robin, Hooded Robin and Shy Heathwren. Regent and Mulga Parrots, (Mallee) Australian Ringneck and Major Mitchell’s Cockatoo are also often encountered.

Emu are common at Wonga Campground, which is also the starting point for the 3 km Discovery Walk – one of the only reliable sites in Victoria for Redthroat. The walk starts behind a corrugated iron toilet block and leads over a series of heath-covered dunes to (usually dry) Lake Brambuck. Check the dunes between Devil’s Pools and Lake Brambuck in the early morning for Redthroat, although the easiest way to find them is to follow up singing males in spring. Southern Scrub-robin, Shy Heathwren and White-eared and Tawny-crowned Honeyeaters also occur along this walk. Parties of Regent Parrot – including large flocks at times – could be seen almost anywhere in this sector of the park.

The area near the park’s northern entrance is generally reliable for White-browed Treecreeper, although they are much easier to see at Yarrara FFR (1.18). Check Callitris-buloke woodland along the tracks between the Patchewollock Rd and the Casuarina Campground, but beware that Brown Treecreeper are also numerous. Regent Parrot and Major Mitchell’s Cockatoo occur at the campground.

1.15 BIG DESERT WILDERNESS PARK

Key species: Malleefowl, Purple-gaped Honeyeater, Shy Heathwren, Southern Scrub-robin

Together, the Big Desert Wilderness Area and Big Desert State Park (SP) protect nearly 200 000 ha of mallee running from the South Australia border east to Wyperfeld NP (1.14). Access is via Murrayville, 100 km west of Ouyen, from where the Murrayville Track runs south for 78 km to the southern edge of the Big Desert (continuing along this track another 75 km will bring you to the town of Nhill). The track is sandy and passable to 2WD vehicles when dry, but may be impassable after rain. Only bush camping is possible along the track and there are no facilities.

This splendid wilderness area contains several sought-after bird specialities. High on this list is Purple-gaped Honeyeater, which can be common when mallee trees are in flower. Shy Heathwren and Southern Scrub-robin are relatively common and other goodies that may take some winkling out include inland irruptives such as White-fronted and Black Honeyeaters (summer). About 35 km south of Murrayville is Big Billy Bore: a fine bush-camping spot where the silence and isolation of the mallee can be enjoyed, although with the recent proliferation of off-road vehicles this experience is getting harder to find. A further 15.5 km south is a pull-in; both this and Big Billy Bore are known Red-lored Whistler sites. Malleefowl may be encountered anywhere along the track.

1.16 HATTAH-KULKYNE NATIONAL PARK

Key species: Malleefowl, Regent Parrot, Major Mitchell’s Cockatoo, Striated Grasswren, Mallee Emu-wren

What is probably the most accessible area of mallee in Victoria boasts most of the specialty species plus good stands of spinifex – the favoured habitat of Striated Grasswren and Mallee Emu-wren. Note that recent Victorian bushfires have severely impacted the latter species throughout Victoria and it is now in danger of extinction. To get to the main entrance, turn right (east) off the Sunraysia Hwy (B220) onto the C252 at Hattah store, 34 km north of Ouyen; the park road is 4 km along and well signposted. The main campgrounds are next to (sometimes dry) shallow lakes, which support a selection of waterbirds. Lake Hattah, the largest, usually has Great Crested Grebe and Black-tailed Native-hen is common along the shore. A variety of parrots and cockatoos drinks at the lakes at dawn and dusk and you should have little trouble locating Regent, Red-rumped and Mulga Parrots, (Mallee) Australian Ringneck, ‘Yellow Rosella’, and Major Mitchell’s and Sulphur-crested Cockatoos. Watch for Tawny Frogmouth and Australian Owlet-nightjar around the campground at night; the latter are common in the mallee.

To get to the main areas of spinifex, follow the Old Calder Hwy (generally suitable for 2WDs) north from the main entrance road. The old highway traverses some excellent mallee, in which there is a chance of seeing Malleefowl by the roadside, especially in the early morning or evening. White-fronted Honeyeater also occurs along here. Turn right at the Nowingi Track (about 10.5 km from the start of the Old Calder) and search among the spinifex clumps in the first kilometre or so for Mallee Emu-wren and Striated Grasswren; be prepared to work up to 100 m or more in from the track on either side (and don’t forget the GPS!). Other birds in this area include Chestnut-crowned and White-browed Babblers, Gilbert’s Whistler, Chestnut Quail-thrush, Shy Heathwren, Splendid Fairy-wren (race melanotis) and Southern Scrub-robin. In summer, keep an ear open for Black-eared Cuckoo and watch for Spotted Nightjar at dusk; both respond well to tapes used sparingly. Malleefowl are often seen further along the Nowingi Track.

Mallee is a distinctive multi-stemmed growth form of several eucalypt species that grow in semiarid southern Australia; this habitat hosts numerous endemic bird species. Photo: David Andrew

The Mournpall Track skirts Lake Mournpall from the campground and is good for Chestnut-crowned and White-browed Babblers. Another good area for Mallee Emu-wren is the Konardin Track near its junction with the Mournpall Track. You could follow the Konardin Track west to join the Nowingi Track, but the sandy sections may be a bit scary for 2WD.

1.17 MURRAY SUNSET NATIONAL PARK

Key species: Malleefowl, Red-lored Whistler, Black-eared Miner, White-fronted Honeyeater

This is Victoria’s second-largest national park and protects 633 000 ha of mallee. It is one of the best places in the state for Red-lored Whistler, as well as a variety of other mallee species including Black-eared Miner (‘pure-bred’ individuals are very rare). This is a remote wilderness with unsurfaced roads – a 4WD vehicle is recommended because the tracks are sandy in places. Only bush camping is possible and there are no facilities. Wymlet Tank (a water bore) makes a good base and is an excellent place to see mallee parrots, such as Regent and Mulga Parrots, Blue Bonnet and Major Mitchell’s Cockatoo. Turn west off the Calder Highway 22 km north of Ouyen onto Trinitra Rd; from there Wymlet Tank is 27 km (the last 5 km on the Honeymoon Hut Track). Red-lored Whistler has been seen regularly in spring about 6 km west of Wymlet Tank along the Honeymoon Hut Track and in suitable habitat along the Meridian Track. Be prepared to work the mallee up to at least 100 m in from the tracks, and always carry a GPS or compass and water in this habitat. Depending on rainfall and flowering conditions, nomads such as White-fronted Honeyeater occur here, and Malleefowl could be encountered at any time.

1.18 YARRARA FLORA AND FAUNA RESERVE

Key species: White-browed Treecreeper

This small reserve offers easy birding in a patch of remnant woodland and the best shot at White-browed Treecreeper in Victoria. Bird the roadside vegetation along the Yarrara South Rd, south of the C254; about 2 km along there’s a vehicle track to the left (east) that gives further access to the woodland. White-browed Treecreeper is quite common in the belah-Callitris-buloke woodland (an obvious association of native pine and casuarinas) on both sides of the road. Other birds here include Red-capped and Hooded Robins, Crested Bellbird, Gilbert’s Whistler, Striped Honeyeater, Blue Bonnet, Mulga Parrot and Chestnut-rumped and Inland Thornbills. Watch for Little Eagle soaring above the roadside vegetation: they regularly breed in Yarrara.

D NORTHERN VICTORIA

Much of eastern Victoria is mountainous and supports few bird species of interest to the travelling birder. Chiltern–Mt Pilot NP in the north-east is an excellent birding destination and supports a significant stand of remnant Box Ironbark – an important winter food resource for the rare Regent Honeyeater – as well as a good range of dry woodland birds, including Barking Owl. Chiltern is easily reached from Melbourne, Canberra or Sydney along the Hume Hwy.

1.19 CHILTERN–MOUNT PILOT NATIONAL PARK

Key species: Painted Button-quail, Turquoise Parrot, Barking Owl, White-throated Nightjar, Regent Honeyeater, Black-chinned Honeyeater, Chestnut-rumped Heathwren

Formerly a gold-mining area, this extensive stand of Box Ironbark is an important remnant for a suite of dry forest birds, including the endangered Regent Honeyeater, although in Victoria this bird now occurs only in very low numbers. The national park is boxed in by farmland and bisected by the Hume Hwy (A39), but both mature and regenerating stands of ironbark can attract up to 14 honeyeater species when flowering. The nearby town of Chiltern is birder-friendly and makes a good base for exploring this excellent area; an informative free leaflet is available from the tourist office. Eastern Grey Kangaroos are common along the park’s unsealed forest tracks – exercise care when driving at dawn and dusk.

The Chiltern section of the park really comes alive when the ironbarks and White Boxes are at their peak winter flowering. Regent Honeyeater are most abundant (a relative term for this species) in winter, although they could be present from autumn to late spring – check along the Lancashire Gap Rd, Honeyeater Picnic Ground near Cyanide Dam and Green Hill Dam (they may drink at both dams). Although Chiltern is the hotspot for Regent Honeyeater in Victoria, in recent years fewer than 10 individuals have been located each year, although captive-bred birds have been released into the park in an effort to boost their numbers. Sit quietly near Cyanide Dam towards dusk and wait for Turquoise Parrot coming in to drink, although they can be both silent and wary. White-throated Nightjar hawking over the still waters enlivens summer evenings by the dam. The Cyanide Dam environs usually also yield Swift Parrot (winter only), and general activity year-round can include Little and Musk Lorikeets, Black-chinned (common), Fuscous and Yellow-tufted Honeyeaters (both abundant), plus Noisy and Little Friarbirds (spring–summer), Crested Shrike-tit (common), Brown Treecreeper, Restless Flycatcher, Varied Sittella and Square-tailed Kite overhead (spring–autumn only). Painted Button-quail are relatively common around the dam or, if there are too many people about, try the wooded ridges to the east and look for tell-tale platelets.

Follow Chiltern’s Main Street north for 2.9 km to Bartley’s Paddock: a cleared area on the left (west), which is good for Turquoise Parrot and Painted Honeyeater in spring and autumn. Painted Honeyeater also frequents mistletoe along the Lancashire Gap Rd en route to Cyanide Dam. Rufous Songlark and Diamond Firetail also occur in the Bartley’s area, although the latter tend to move about the park. Chestnut-rumped Heathwren are resident, but elusive, and probably easier to see elsewhere; try areas of dense, heathy understorey off the tracks east of Cyanide Rd, along Skeleton Hill Track and Tower Hill Rd.

The Mt Pilot area south of Chiltern is one of the best sites in Victoria for Barking Owl. Although they have turned up on the outskirts of town, the best place to look is in the Mt Pilot–Barambogie area about 18 km south-east of Chiltern township along the Chiltern–Beechworth road. There are no real stake-outs – just drive the lanes slowly at night and listen for calls. Again, this species is much more common elsewhere, particularly in northern Australia.

1.20 TERRICK TERRICK NATIONAL PARK

Key species: Spotted Harrier, Plains-wanderer, woodland birds

‘The Terricks’ protect one of the largest remnants of native grassland in the state and is the only reliable site in Victoria for the amazing Plains-wanderer. Roughly half the park is native grassland; the rest is open eucalypt or Callitris woodland, which has an excellent variety of species. Vehicle access to the park’s grasslands is not permitted, so to see Plains-wanderer you will have to seek permission from local property owners. To get to the park, leave Bendigo on the Loddon Valley Hwy (B260) and turn due north at Eaglehawk on the Mitiamo–Bendigo road (C336). After 60 km you’ll reach Mitiamo; from there take the Mitiamo Forest Rd into the national park. Woodland around the south-east corner of the park and Mt Terrick Terrick is good for woodland birds such as Gilbert’s Whistler, Hooded and Red-capped Robins, Brown Treecreeper, Varied Sittella, Crested Shrike-tit, Jacky Winter and Chestnut-rumped Thornbill; Black-eared Cuckoo and Black Honeyeater have also been recorded. Drive the Mitiamo–Kow Swamp Rd east of the park proper and scan the paddocks for Banded Lapwing, Black-faced Woodswallow and Brown and Rufous Songlarks. This is where Plains-wanderer occurs, along with Little Button-quail, Australian Pratincole and occasionally Inland Dotterel. Terrick Terrick is also an excellent site for birds of prey, with a good chance of seeing Spotted Harrier and Black Falcon – particularly over the grasslands – and Little and Wedge-tailed Eagles.

1.21 GOSCHEN BUSHLAND RESERVE

Key species: Black, Pied and White-fronted Honeyeaters, Crimson Chat

Apart from remnant mallee, this delightful reserve in a sea of agriculture also supports Long-leaf Emu-bush (Eremophila longifolia) or Berrigan: a small flowering tree that provides a vital food resource (depending on rainfall) for nomadic honeyeaters such as Black, Pied and White-fronted Honeyeaters. During spring and summer, other nomads such as Crimson Chat, Budgerigar and Cockatiel join typical dry-country birds such as Variegated Fairy-wren, Yellow-throated Miner, Hooded and Red-capped Robins, Masked, Black-faced and White-browed Woodswallows, Little Button-quail, Australian Owlet-nightjar, Rufous Songlark, Zebra Finch and Pied Butcherbird. The reserve is 10 km west of the township of Lake Boga at the intersection of the Ultima–Lake Boga and the Donald– Swan Hill roads.

E SOUTH-EASTERN VICTORIA

Croajingolong NP protects the easternmost 100 km of Victoria’s south coast as far as the NSW border. It is a huge wilderness area that marks the southerly distribution of many east coast species, such as Glossy Black-Cockatoo, Eastern Bristlebird and Black Bittern. Croajingolong is contiguous with similar habitat over the state border, but note that most of Nadgee NR in south-east NSW is now accessible only to walkers. The town of Mallacoota is a pleasant, quiet spot in which to base yourself while exploring this area.

1.22 MALLACOOTA AND CROAJINGOLONG NATIONAL PARK

Key species: Ground Parrot, Glossy Black-Cockatoo, Eastern Bristlebird, Southern