The Evans Guide for Housetraining Your Dog
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Reviews for The Evans Guide for Housetraining Your Dog
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- Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Housetraining methods that really work, and work for any age. -Sidney
Book preview
The Evans Guide for Housetraining Your Dog - Job Michael Evans
Introduction
I originally thought of titling this book You Dirty Dog! but that was in a moment of temporary insanity and unreality. The fact is, most dogs desperately want to be housetrained. What holds up the process? Usually the fumbles, foibles, misunderstandings and misconceptions of their human keepers. But titling the book You Dirty Owner! just didn’t have that familiar ring to it, and I didn’t think it would sell too many copies since dogs don’t yet dole out cash. Besides, humans are too sensitive a species to appreciate a title like that.
I don’t have any concrete statistics as to the number of dogs who are euthanized because of an inability on the part of the owner (and sometimes the dog) to surmount housetraining problems, but I suspect the number is very high. In fact, in giving seminars to shelter personnel and in private consultations with Ms. Mickey Niego, who works in the education department at New York’s ASPCA, I suspect it is the number one behavioral reason why dogs are given up on and taken to shelters.
Don’t get me wrong—I’m not at all blaming shelter workers. Their job has pleasant and not-so-pleasant aspects and it is not their fault that we have a tremendous surplus of animals in our country. Shelter personnel spend countless hours on the phone trying to explain how to housetrain puppies and dogs, and for this they are to be commended. Perhaps this book will help them even more.
It is my firm belief that the state of dog training and care is today where child care and training were about 100 years ago—before Anna Freud, Dr. Benjamin Spock or any experts began the process of enlightening parents on how to parent. Back then, toilet training was one of the most misunderstood areas of child care and mythology and folklore abounded. Some kids just didn’t get toilet trained until they were four or even five (we know the process can be accomplished in less time today) and many a child was screamed at, berated, spanked and even battered when they made mistakes
after the parents had decided or decreed that accidents were no longer acceptable. To get advice, distraught daughters talked to their mothers, who, of course, handed down the folklore remedies
they had been given by their mothers. Oral tradition is a great teaching tool, but not when it transmits inaccurate information. Today, toilet training for children is still a task, but no mother has to look long or hard for accurate advice.
The above scenario serves as a model for what has been happening in the area of housetraining puppies and dogs. To be sure, the discussions of the process are still glutted with folklore. As recently as 1985 one training book advised owners to hold his nose to the floor,
give the dog a hard slap and put vinegar on the dog’s nose. But many good explanations of the housetraining ritual have appeared and I have tried to incorporate the best and most progressive methods with my own distinct approach. My caution to you is to watch what you read—you can be a victim of misinformation quite unknowingly.
If you’ve been reading books about housetraining and have been finding a lot of contradictory advice—I understand your confusion. Don’t let it get to you. I’ve tried to combine the best research and comments here to dispel folklore and clear up confusion.
Please don’t view housetraining as an isolated process with one magic solution—if you’re looking for that in this book, you’re not going to get it. Housetraining is a part of your overall relationship with your dog. You have to check your Alpha status, your paralanguage, your nutrition, your schedule and the structure of your environment.
But many owners want desperately to believe that there is a magic solution to the housetraining woes—a secret method
that can be imparted to the reader (preferably in two minutes) that will make the problem go away overnight. My friends, that’s just not the case. It takes more time to understand housetraining than that. The time you save in screaming and yelling at your dog, chasing him or her all over the house, stepping in mistakes and laboriously scrubbing up accidents or replacing ruined carpets might very well add up to eighty times the amount of time it will take to read this book. And besides, the tips you will pick up here for resolving (or preventing) a housetraining problem will also help you to avoid other behavioral problems that often crop up along with a housetraining difficulty.
Finally, by way of introduction, I want to extend to new puppy owners my ardent hope that you will never have a housetraining problem, and to those of you who do, my sincere sympathy and, of course, my advice. You see, I’ve been where you are many times over. While I was at New Skete Monastery, famous for raising and training dogs, I housetrained over 35 puppies who were personal pets, many older dogs, and some of the worse recalcitrants you can imagine—like the five-year-old Labrador Retriever who would defecate on my bed, and then meticulously pull the covers over the gift he had left. Once while attempting to train this particular canine criminal I came back to my bedroom and fell into bed, exhausted from a day of training dogs. Cute, huh?
Then there was the poodle who would vomit and defecate at the same time, giving me two messes to clean up for the price of one. Let’s not forget the Bichon Frise who managed to hold it
and not defecate for almost five days (apparently she knew she was being trained and went on strike). She gave me emotional diarrhea in the process.
Now that I have my own business in New York, I see many housetraining cases each week. So I’ve been there and back. I dedicate this book to owners who want to prevent housetraining problems or who want to correct them, and most of all to the dogs I have known who have cleaned up their act.
1
The ACCESS Plan
My method for getting puppies or older dogs housetrained can be summed up by the word ACCESS. This is a word to keep in mind as you proceed through the housetraining process:
Remember, A-C-C-E-S-S: Become Alpha to your dog, correct the dog if necessary using natural corrections outlined herein, confine your pet until housetraining is complete, establish a schedule that you’ll stick to and select a good dog food. Following the ACCESS Plan should provide you with ready access to getting your dog fully housetrained.
2
In the Beginning: The Bitch
Did you know that someone already took a crack at housetraining your puppy? While I know you wouldn’t wish the task on anyone, someone already gave it a try—your pup’s mother. The bitch is the first Alpha or leader figure to educate the pup that cleanliness is next to godliness. Let me explain what happens.
When a puppy is first born it can crawl and suck and find its mother’s teat. It is very sensitive to warmth or cold but it cannot see or hear. In fact, during the first two or three weeks of its life it cannot even urinate or defecate without oral stimulation from the bitch. The mother dog knows this instinctively, so she stimulates the genital area of each puppy (often as it nurses) and then consumes the urination or defecation. We might think this is gross, but it is actually a very common scenario in many mammals. Cats do it too. The puppy learns that it actually pleases mom to defecate and that mom then cleans it all up. This is why it is bad for your puppy or older dog to see you clean up after the dog has an accident in the wrong place. It can foster regressive behavior in the pup. But more on that later.
The bitch is the first Alpha or leader figure that educates the puppies that cleanliness is next to godliness.
At about three or four weeks of age there is a transitional period when the pup’s eyes and ears open. About this time the pup becomes more aware of its environment. The mother is still cleaning up at this point, but probably the breeder (or whoever is raising the puppies) has started to introduce solid food, usually in the form of some kind of gruel. Depending on the food fed, the stools become more or less noxious, and larger. The bitch stops consuming the stools. The mother starts to inform the pups in no uncertain terms not to urinate or defecate near her. She does this by making eye contact and growling at them very softly. Unlike humans, bitches do not scream or bark at their pups to keep order in their litters. Perhaps the dam will discipline by giving the pup a slight shake by the scruff of its neck. Depending on the pup involved and the bitch’s perception of it, this slight shake might escalate into an Al Capone shakedown. The point the dam is making is, Don’t do it near me—it smells, and I have a sensitive nose; it’s bigger now and more fully formed, and I don’t want to lie in it.
And finally, It doesn’t taste like it used to for some reason and I’m not consuming it anymore—take it away from me.
Now, if—and it’s a big if—the breeder has provided enough space and a structural set-up that allows the pups to retreat from the mother to eliminate, they will. Distance the defecation
will become the pup’s new rule of thumb. If the