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Southern Soups & Stews: More Than 75 Recipes from Burgoo and Gumbo to Etouffée and Fricassee

Southern Soups & Stews: More Than 75 Recipes from Burgoo and Gumbo to Etouffée and Fricassee

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Southern Soups & Stews: More Than 75 Recipes from Burgoo and Gumbo to Etouffée and Fricassee

Longueur:
331 pages
2 heures
Sortie:
Sep 8, 2015
ISBN:
9781452132303
Format:
Livre

Description

Home cooks throughout the American South treasure time-honored recipes for hearty soups and satisfying stews savored year after year. Often passed down through the generations, the dishes detailed in this book are cherished and shared at family gatherings, holiday feasts, and community suppers throughout the seasons. These recipes serve up soups and stews seasoned with history—from Nathalie Dupree's Lowcountry Okra and Shrimp Gumbo to Summer Squash Soup with Black Pepper and Thyme, to Collard Greens with Pot Likker and Dumplings—offering us a glimpse of how people farmed, cooked, and continue to celebrate life over time.
Sortie:
Sep 8, 2015
ISBN:
9781452132303
Format:
Livre

À propos de l'auteur

Nancie McDermott is a North Carolina native, cooking teacher, and author of thirteen cookbooks, including her latest, Southern Soups and Stews: From Burgoo and Gumbo to Etouffee and Fricassee.

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Aperçu du livre

Southern Soups & Stews - Nancie McDermott

17

Marcelle Bienvenu’s Shrimp and Egg Gumbo

19

Nathalie Dupree’s Lowcountry Okra and Shrimp Gumbo

20

Henry Carr’s Creole Gumbo

21

Lena Richard’s Gumbo Filé

22

Turkey Bone Gumbo

24

Chicken and Sausage Gumbo, Cajun-Style

27

Leah Chase’s Gumbo z’Herbes

30

Abby Fisher’s Ochra Gumbo with Beef and Rice

FROM PICNIC TABLES AT A BOUCHERIE (butchery) in Cajun country to the damask-covered tables in a French Quarter dining room, from a kitchen table in Mobile to one in Charleston or on nearby Edisto Island, gumbos reign supreme. Rich in history and varied in type, gumbos stir up discussion and sometimes disagreements, from the definition of a gumbo to from whence it came.

Nearly everyone concurs that gumbo in any form is an extraordinary, hearty, and delicious stew, teeming with robust flavors, redolent with herbs and spices, richly deserving of its popularity, and worthy of attention and respect. As to what exactly goes in it and how it should properly be made? Let the contradictory opinions flow forth, beginning with origins and ingredients and continuing through technique and how it should be accompanied and served. The only absolute truth regarding gumbo is that nobody anywhere can absolutely and definitively explain it, define it, or claim it. This dish looms larger than any one group’s understanding of it, because its roots lead in many directions: West Africa and the Caribbean; France and Acadiana; Cajun country and Creole culture in New Orleans; Mobile, Alabama, parts of Florida, and the Mississippi Delta; and down to the Gulf of Mexico. Gumbo means what it means in each region where people still love it and make it and care enough about it to define it for themselves. Gumbo is more complex and vibrant than any one serving of words printed on any one page.

This chapter presents you with a gumbo primer, strongly seasoned by the most familiar version in modern Southern culture, the Cajun-style, roux-based gumbos of Louisiana, lifted into the national spotlight in the 1980s by Chef Paul Prudhomme. When he opened his French Quarter restaurant, K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen, people fell in love with the extraordinary, intensely flavored cooking, based on his Cajun roots. Chef Paul introduced the popular term the Trinity to describe the three modern essential seasonings for Cajun-style gumbos: onion, celery, and bell pepper, all chopped up and added to a roux once it reached its proper color, to cook their flavor into the dish and halt the browning of said roux. Chef Paul compares these seasonings to the French tradition of beginning many dishes with a mirepoix, a mixture of finely chopped onions, celery, and carrots rather than the green peppers used in Louisiana’s kitchens.

We begin with such a Cajun-style gumbo, using andouille sausage and chicken. Next come three okra-based Creole-style gumbos, from legendary Creole chefs. Two of these culinary leaders, Lena Richard and Henry Carr, have passed away. One, Chef Leah Chase, is a living national treasure whose wonderful restaurant, Dooky Chase, still features her famous gumbo z’herbes on Holy Thursday each year. You’ll also find two more Louisiana variations on the gumbo theme, plus two gumbos with Afro-Caribbean roots, one historical version from nineteenth-century entrepreneur and cookbook author Mrs. Abby Fisher, and the other from Nathalie Dupree, whose book Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking

Marcelle Bienvenu’s Shrimp and Egg Gumbo

Beloved as the ever-flowing fountain of classic and contemporary recipes for Louisiana’s extraordinary cuisine, Marcelle Bienvenu is widely regarded as the Queen of Cajun Cuisine. Born and raised in the town of St. Martinville on Bayou Teche, she was exposed to journalism and great cooking early on, with a father who established the town’s first newspaper and an extended family of women who cooked creatively and brilliantly. In her many books and long-running columns for the Times-Picayune of New Orleans and NOLA.com, she explores history and traditions while staying open to inspiration. Intrigued by a classic Cajun gumbo recipe she learned from the late chef Eula Mae Dore, she came up with this summertime gumbo using fresh shrimp and finely chopped hard-boiled eggs. When it’s too hot to work on a meaty gumbo, she puts this on to simmer and ends up with a satisfying rice-and-gumbo supper.

Serves 8

1 In a large, heavy pot or a Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat for 2 minutes. When a pinch of flour blooms on the surface when added to the oil, scatter in the flour and stir quickly and thoroughly, combining the oil and flour evenly into a thick, smooth roux. Continue cooking, stirring often, as the roux darkens from white to ivory to a rich, medium brown, the color of peanut butter, 15 to 20 minutes.

2 Add the onions and continue stirring, cooking the roux for 1 minute more. Add the celery and bell pepper and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes more.

3 Pour in 2 cups of the stock, and stir to mix it in evenly. Pour in the remaining 6 cups stock and continue stirring to combine everything. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover the pot, and let simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for 1¹/2 hours.

4 Uncover and stir in the salt and cayenne. Use a large spoon to skim off any oil that has risen to the surface. Increase the heat to medium and let come to a boil. Add the shrimp and stir them into the gumbo. Cook until the shrimp change color, 1 to 2 minutes.

5

Nathalie Dupree’s Lowcountry Okra and Shrimp Gumbo

In her adopted city of Charleston, South Carolina, beloved cookbook author and television cooking star Nathalie Dupree celebrates culinary traditions of the Lowcountry, along with those of her native Georgia and the rest of the South. Unlike the roux-based, pepper-fueled gumbos of Louisiana, her Atlantic coast gumbo features okra and tomatoes and has no dark-colored roux as a base. While bacon grease is the sole meaty ingredient in this recipe, Nathalie notes that this recipe is a template that you can revise to suit yourself. Ms. Dupree is the author of thirteen cookbooks, most recently the James Beard Award–winner Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking. I’ve simplified her recipe to make enough for a family rather than a big crowd. You could double it and add a pint of oysters and a half-pound of crabmeat shortly before serving if you’d like to enjoy its full delights.

Serves 6 to 8

1 Heat the bacon grease over medium-high heat in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot. Add 3 cups of the sliced okra and toss it well. Cook, stirring often to prevent it from burning, until the okra is dry and lightly browned, 5 to 10 minutes.

2 Add the onion, celery, bell pepper, and garlic and toss them well. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are fragrant, shiny, and softened, about 3 minutes.

3 Stir in the tomatoes and stock. Add the salt, pepper, and cayenne; stir and let the gumbo come to a lively boil. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes.

4

Henry Carr’s Creole Gumbo

This classic Creole gumbo comes from Creole Feast: 15 Master Chefs of New Orleans Reveal Their Secrets, written by Dr. Rudolph Lombard and Chef Nathaniel Burton in 1978. A tribute to the knowledge and dedication of more than a dozen masterful guardians of the city’s cuisine, the book shares anecdotes and advice from culinary geniuses, men and women who shared their secrets with generosity and pride. Chef Henry D. Carr Sr. manned the stoves at The Ponchartrain, The Court of Two Sisters, Brennan’s, and Pascal’s Manale during his thirty-year career, and spoke about the importance of timing, attention to detail, and flavorful stock in creating excellent gumbo the Creole way. Chef Carr sought to develop layers of flavor by including dried shrimp and gumbo crabs in his stock, and advised sautéing the okra in butter to enhance its texture and taste. His gumbos included tomatoes and an array of seafood, with a flourish of shrimp and lump crabmeat stirred in just before serving time.

Serves 8 to 10

1 In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. When it is very bubbly and just about to brown, scatter in the okra and spread it out in a single layer. Cook it, undisturbed, until the okra is lightly browned on the bottom, and then toss it well. Continue cooking, tossing occasionally, until all the okra is lightly browned and somewhat dry, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove it from the heat and set aside.

2 In a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. When a pinch of flour blooms on the surface when added to the oil, scatter in the flour and stir quickly and thoroughly, combining the oil and flour evenly into a thick, smooth roux. Continue cooking, stirring often, as the roux turns from white to ivory to a rich, medium brown, the color of peanut butter, 15 to 20 minutes.

3 Add the onion, celery, bell pepper, and about one-third of the green onions to the Dutch oven and stir quickly, mixing the vegetables into the roux. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are fragrant and softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juice and cook, stirring to mix everything together, 1 minute more.

4 Carefully pour the hot stock into the roux mixture and stir well. Add the cooked okra, Tabasco, Worcestershire, salt, and pepper. Stir well, bring the gumbo to a gentle boil, and then adjust the heat to maintain the gentle boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes.

5

Lena Richard’s Gumbo Filé

Remember this name: Lena Richard. She’s the most impressive businessperson, celebrity chef, educator, television personality, and entrepreneur we never heard of. She belongs in the Hall of Fame and Glory for too many reasons to count, but for now we have mostly her recipes from which to learn about her life and work. Born in New Roads, Louisiana, in 1892, this African American woman cooked up a spectacularly successful career in the first half of the twentieth century, starring in her own twice-weekly cooking show, self-publishing a 350-recipe cookbook so impressive that a national publisher picked it up; founding a cooking school, a catering business, and a frozen-food production company; and starting and running four restaurants in New Orleans. All this in fifty-eight years. Ms. Richard passed away in 1950. Her published work, The New Orleans Cookbook, remains in print and makes a fine place to start considering her life and work. I love her recipe for gumbo filé, a Creole gumbo calling for lake shrimp and crab in a golden-brown roux. I’ve used crabmeat instead of gumbo crabs, and added parsley and green onions. As Ms. Richard suggested, I serve this with rice.

Serves 8 to 10

1 In a large Dutch oven, heat 4 tablespoons of the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Scatter in the pork and cook it undisturbed until browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn to cook the other side until nicely browned. Toss well and use a slotted spoon to scoop the pork into a medium bowl, leaving as much oil behind as possible.

2 Add the shrimp and cook, tossing twice, just until most of the shrimp have turned a bright pink. Scoop them out and add them to the pork. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and swirl the pot to heat it.

3 When a pinch of flour blooms on the surface when added to the oil, scatter in the flour and stir quickly and thoroughly, combining the oil and flour evenly into a thick, smooth roux. Continue cooking, stirring often, until the roux releases a nutty fragrance and turns a light brown, 5 to 10 minutes.

4 Add the onion and cook, tossing often, until it releases its fragrance, softens, and is evenly coated with the roux, about 2 minutes.

5 Add the chicken stock to the pot and stir well. Add the partially cooked pork and shrimp, along with the chicken, garlic, bay leaf, and half the crabmeat. Stir and bring them to a gentle boil. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle but active simmer and cook, stirring now and then, for 20 minutes.

6 Stir in the remaining crabmeat,

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