The Voyage of the 'Fox' in the Arctic Seas

THE

VOYAGE OF THE ‘FOX’

IN THE ARCTIC SEAS

IN SEARCH OF FRANKLIN

AND HIS COMPANIONS

SIR FRANCIS LEOPOLD MCCLINTOCK

Foreword by

SHELAGH D. GRANT

The Escape out of the Pack by Captain W.W. May, R.N.

My Dear Lady Franklin,

There is no one to whom I could with so much propriety or willingness dedicate my Journal as to you. For you it was originally written, and to please you it now appears in print.

To our mutual friend, Sherard Osborn, I am greatly obliged for his kindness in seeing it through the press—a labour I could not have settled down to so soon after my return; and also for pointing out some omissions and technicalities which would have rendered parts of it unintelligible to an ordinary reader. These kind hints have been but partially attended to, and, as time presses, it appears with the mass of its original imperfections, as when you read it in manuscript. Such as it is, however, it affords me this valued opportunity of assuring you of the real gratification I feel in having been instrumental in accomplishing an object so dear to you. To your devotion and self-sacrifice the world is indebted for the deeply interesting revelation unfolded by the voyage of the ‘Fox.’

Believe me to be,

With sincere respect, most faithfully yours,

F.L. McClintock

London, 24th Nov. 1859

LIST OF OFFICERS AND SHIP’S COMPANY OF THE ‘FOX.’

OFFICIAL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF THE SERVICES OF THE YACHT ‘FOX.’

Admiralty, London, 24th Oct. 1859

Sir,

I am commanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to acquaint you, that, in consideration of the important services performed by you in bringing home the only authentic intelligence of the death of the late Sir John Franklin, and of the fate of the crews of the ‘Erebus’ and ‘Terror,’ Her Majesty has been pleased, by her order in Council of the 22nd instant, to sanction the time during which you were absent on these discoveries in the Arctic Regions, viz., from the 30th June, 1857 to the 21st September, 1859, to reckon as time served by a captain in command of one of Her Majesty’s ships, and my Lords have given the necessary directions accordingly.

I am, Sir,

Your very humble servant,

W.G. Romaine,

Secretary to the Admiralty

CONTENTS

Foreword to the 2012 Edition

by Shelagh D. Grant

Preface to the First Edition (1859)

by Sir Roderick I. Murchison

Introduction

CHAPTER ONE

Cause of delay in equipment—Fittings of the ‘Fox’—Volunteers for arctic service—Assistance from public departments—Reflections upon the undertaking—Instructions and departure—Orkneys and Greenland—Fine arctic scenery—Danish establishments in Greenland—Frederickshaab, in Davis’ Strait

CHAPTER TWO

Fiskernaes and Esquimaux—The ‘Fox’ reaches Disco—Disco Fiord —Summer scenery—Waigat Strait—Coaling from the mine—Purchasing Esquimaux dogs—Heavy gale off Upernivik—Melville Bay—The middle ice—The great glacier of Greenland—Do Reindeer cross the glacier?

CHAPTER THREE

Melville Bay—Crow’s-nest—Beset in Melville Bay—Signs of winter —The coming storm—Drifting in the pack—Canine appetite—Resigned to a winter in the pack—Dinner stolen by sharks—The arctic shark—White whales and Killers

CHAPTER FOUR

Snow crystals—Dogs will not eat raven—An arctic school—The dogs invade us—Bear-hunting by night—Ice-artillery—Arctic palates—Sudden rise of temperature—Freezing of salt-water—Harvey’s idea of a sortie

CHAPTER FIVE

Burial in the pack—Musk oxen in lat. 80° north—Habits of the arctic fox—The aurora affects the electrometer—An arctic Christmas—Sufferings of Dr. Hayes’ boat party—Ice acted on by wind only—How the sun ought to be welcomed—Constant action of the ice—Return of the seals—Revolving storm

CHAPTER SIX

Bear-fight—An ice-nip—Strong gales, rapid drift—Breaking up of the ice—Hanging on to floe-edge—The arctic bear—An ice tournament—Escape out of the pack—A storm in the pack—Description of the escape

CHAPTER SEVEN

A holiday in Greenland—A lady blue with cold—The loves of Greenlanders—Close shaving—Meet the whalers—Information of whalers—Disco—Danish hospitality—Sail from Disco—Coaling —Kindness of the whalers—Danish establishments in Greenland

CHAPTER EIGHT

‘Fox’ nearly wrecked—Afloat, and push ahead—Arctic hair-breadth escapes—Nearly caught in the pack—Shooting little auks—The arctic highlanders—Cape York—Crimson snow—Struggling to the westward—Reach the West-land—Off the entrance of Lancaster Sound

CHAPTER NINE

Off Cape Warrender—Sight the whalers again—Enter Pond’s Bay—Communicate with Esquimaux—Ascend Pond’s Inlet—Esquimaux information—Arctic summer abode—An arctic village—No intelligence of Franklin’s ships—Arctic trading—Geographical information of natives—Information of Rae’s visit—Improvidence of Esquimaux—Travels of Esquimaux

CHAPTER TEN

Leave Pond’s Bay—A gale in Lancaster Sound—The Beechey Island depot—An arctic monument—Reflections at Beechey Island—Proceed up Barrow’s Strait—Peel Sound—Port Leopold—Prince Regent’s Inlet—Bellot Strait—Flood-tide from the west—Unsuccessful efforts—Fox’s Hole—No water to the west—Precautionary measures—Fourth attempt to pass through

CHAPTER ELEVEN

Proceed westward in a boat—Unpromising state of the western sea—Struggles in Bellot Strait—Falcons, good arctic fare—The resources of Boothia Felix—Future sledge travelling—Heavy gales —Hobson’s party start—Winter quarters—Bellot Strait—Advanced depot established—Observatories—Intense cold—Autumn travellers—Ravens—Narrow escape—Wolves

CHAPTER TWELVE

Death of our engineer—Scarcity of game—The cold unusually trying —Jolly, under adverse circumstances—Petersen’s information—Return of the sun of 1859—Early spring sledge parties—Unusual severity of the winter—Severe hardships of early sledging—The western shores of Boothia—Meet the Esquimaux—Intelligence of Franlkin’s ships—Return to the ‘Fox’—Allen Young returns

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

Dr. Walker’s sledge journey—Snow-blindness attacks Young’s party —Departure of all sledge-parties—Equipment of sledge-parties—Meet the same party of natives—Intelligence of the second ship—My depot robbed—Part company from Hobson—Matty Island—Deserted snow-huts—Native sledges—Land on King William’s Land

CHAPTER FOURTEEN

Meet Esquimaux—News of Franklin’s people—Frighten a solitary party—Reach the Great Fish River—On Montreal Island—Total absence of all relics—Dog-driving—Examine Ogle Peninsula—Discover a skeleton—Vagueness of Esquimaux information—Cape Herschel—Cairn

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

The cairn found empty—Discover Hobson’s letter—Discovery of Crozier’s record—The deserted boat—Articles discovered about the boat—The skeletons and relics—The boat belonged to the ‘Erebus’—Conjectures

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

Errors in Franklin’s records—Relics found at the cairn—Reflections on the retreat—Returning homeward—Geological remarks—Difficulties of summer sledging—Arrive on board the ‘Fox’—Navigable N.W. Passage—Death from scurvy—Anxiety for Captain Young—Young returns safely

CHAPTER SEVENTEEN

Signs of release—Seal-stalking—Dearth of animal life—Birthdays—Break out of winter quarters—Game lists—Steam out of port—Escape from Regent’s Inlet—In Baffin’s Bay—Bears—Captain Allen Young’s journey—Hobson’s journey—Disco; sad disappointment—Part from our Esquimaux friends—Adieu to Greenland—Arrive home

Conclusion

Appendix

No. I.—List of Relics of the Franklin Expedition brought to England in the ‘Fox,’ and deposited in the Museum of the United Service Institution

No. II.—Reports of Scientific Observations obtained during the voyage of the ‘Fox;’ or References to such of these Reports as are published elsewhere

Endnotes

Index

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

The Escape out of the Pack. Drawn by Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Map to illustrate the Voyage, and the Geographical Discoveries of the ‘Fox.’ By J. Arroesmith, Esq.

Facsimile of the Record of Franklin’s Expedition, found at Point Victory. Copied by F.G. Netherclift

Sketch Map of the Arctic Regions, showing the Track of the ‘Fox,’ and her Drift down Baffin’s Bay; also, Sketch Map of the Arctic Regions at the time of Franklin’s Departure, and showing his supposed Track.

The Governor in his Oomiak. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Our Summer Costume.

The crow’s-nest. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Funeral on the Ice—Paraselenae and Lunar halos, 4th December, 1857. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Section of Seal’s Cave in the Ice.

The Greenlander’s Supper appropriated by a Bear.

Perilous Position of the ‘Fox’ near Buchan Island, 7th June, 1858. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Esquimaux near Cape York watching the Approach of the ‘Fox;’ also Christian in his kayak. From a Sketch by Captain Allen Young

Final Liberation from the Melville Bay ice, 2nd July, 1858. From a Sketch by Captain Allen Young

Village and Glacier of Kaparöktolik, 4th August, 1858. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

The Three Graves, and Depot House, Beechey Island. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Departure from Beechey Island, 16th August, 1858. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Stranded mass of heavy floe ice. By P. Skelton, from a Sketch by Captain Allen Young

Bellot Strait, 1st September, 1858. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Greenland dog-sledge.

Interior of the Magnetic Observatory. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Top of Funnel of our stove-pipe.

Travelling Costume.

Boothian Mother and Infant.

Starting of the Exploring Parties, 2nd April, 1859. Drawn from a Photograph, by Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Plan of the Snow Huts.

Sledge under Sail. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Cape Herschel, and Remains of Simpson’s Cairn. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Diagram of the stem of the Boat.

Pattern of worked slippers found in the Boat.

Christian Seal-stalking. By Captain W.W. May, R.N.

Moonlight, 25th August, 1859.

Belles of Disco. From a Photograph by Dr. J.J. Hayes, kindly lent by the late C. Grinnell, Esq.

FOREWORD

by Shelagh D. Grant

The Voyage of the ‘Fox’ in the Arctic Seas by Sir Captain Francis Leopold McClintock, RN, is perhaps the most vital of all the books written by Admiralty officers in the nineteenth century and certainly the most popular. Aside from the success of the private expedition funded by Lady Jane Franklin and loyal supporters in establishing clear evidence of the fate of the lost Franklin expedition, McClintock’s detailed descriptions reflect astute powers of observation, backed by a wealth of historical and scientific knowledge. The narrative also provides insight into the leadership skills that were so critical to the mission’s success.

The close bond between the commander, officers, and crew was attributable in part to the leader’s stoicism, energy, and genuine concern for his men, which inspired confidence and deep loyalty. The mutual respect was best illustrated by McClintock’s own admission that the most memorable of all the honours and gifts he received was a gold chronometer, which had been purchased and presented to him by his officers and crew. Upon acceptance, he remarked, that as long as I live it will remind me of that perfect harmony, which made our ship’s company a happy little community and contributed materially to the success of the expedition. 1

McClintock’s compassion and sensitivity were also evident in his concern for the two Greenlanders he hired and for Inuit in general. Noting that Denmark provided medical care, welfare assistance, and schooling for Greenland Esquimaux, he called into question the actions of his own countrymen:

Have we English done as much for the [A]borigines in any of our numerous colonies, even in far more favoured climes? We have thousands of Esquimaux within our own territories of Labrador and of the Hudson’s Bay Company and the west shore of Davis’ Strait, within three weeks’ sail of us, and in annual communication with our whaling ships. (see here)

Unfortunately, the same British attitude was adopted by Canadian governments for decades following acquisition of the Arctic Islands and mainland.

Having established a degree of closure on the Franklin tragedy, McClintock was perceived as the quintessential conqueror of the polar seas, who captured the hearts and minds of the next generation of would-be adventurers, artists, and writers. Joseph Conrad, for example, came across a French version at the age of ten and later described how the book inspired his career, both as a seaman and an author, in so far that the realities of the story sent me off on the romantic explorations of my inner self, apparently to the detriment of his school work. 2

The first edition of McClintock’s narrative was published within nine weeks of his return to London, but it was not without errors and inconsistencies. Although based on his diaries and ship logs, some suggested that much of the editing may have been carried out by his friend and colleague, Captain Sherard Osborn, RN, who had no active role in the expedition. Nevertheless, the book was an immediate bestseller and the first printing was sold out within weeks. Eventually it would be translated into a variety of European languages.

Yet it is the third edition, reprinted here, that is of particular value for scholars of the twenty-first century. As explained by McClintock in the first paragraph of his new Introduction:

A new edition of this narrative having been called for, I gladly avail myself the opportunity to make some few alterations and additions which I trust will make it more acceptable to the public . . . The illustrations are more numerous, the text has been corrected, and some new matter dispersed through its pages chiefly descriptive of the habits of Arctic animals, of our tent life on the floe, and of our sledging journeys. (see here)

Also added were short biographies of Sir John Franklin and his officers, a description of the ships, and an assessment of their accomplishment—certainly a more salutary view of Franklin compared to criticisms by some revisionist historians. McClintock’s views were likely a reflection of his own experience of being unable to break free of the ice for two years (during the Admiralty search in 1854) until the commander of the fleet finally gave orders to abandon four of the five ships. The major difference in this case was the presence of relief vessels nearby to take the men home.

Any Foreword written a hundred and fifty years after the event would be remiss if it did not include a biographical note on the author’s early years and the career path that eventually lead to his appointment as Admiral of the British Navy. 3

Born in 1819 at Dundalk, in Louth County, Ireland, Francis Leopold McClintock was the son of a customs’ officer whose ancestors had emigrated from Scotland in the late sixteenth century. His paternal grandfather was a magistrate and a member of the Irish Parliament; his grandmother the daughter of an Earl. Although young McClintock was well connected, his parents lived in a modest, three-storey townhouse where he apparently enjoyed a happy and carefree childhood. As the eldest surviving son in a family of twelve, he often accompanied his father hunting and fishing—an enjoyable diversion from his studies at the local grammar school, where he had developed a profound distaste for Latin.

McClintock’s recollections of his childhood reflect an adventuresome yet self-effacing personality sparked by subtle Irish humour. He had always wanted to be a sailor, influenced by his cousin Lieutenant William Bunbury, RN, and a portrait of Admiral George Cranfield Berkeley that hung in his father’s study. He also gave a third reason: that knowledge of Latin was not required in the Navy. Thus, when Bunbury wrote to his father in 1831, offering the young boy a position as a first-class volunteer on HMS Samarang, Leopold immediately packed a small bag and set off by coach and mail boat. Within two days, he arrived at the Portsmouth docks in England, a small lad not quite twelve years of age, standing four feet six inches tall, weighing just sixty-eight pounds and carrying his favourite possession—a bag of coloured marbles. 4

After time spent in waters off Brazil, he was promoted to midshipman at the age of sixteen, initially sailing in British waters, then the West Indies and the eastern seaboard of North America. Although often described as self-educated, he spent over a year at the Royal Naval Academy in Portsmouth, studying engineering, navigation, and seamanship. As gunnery officer on the HMS Gorgon (1843–45), he was commended for his success in removing the grounded ship from a sandbank off Uruguay. In a letter, Captain Charles Hotman described him as one of the most zealous and excellent young men that I have served with . . . 5 On return home, he was promoted to the rank of lieutenant, whereupon he assigned a portion of his pay to provide a regular allowance for his recently widowed mother. 6

The turning point in McClintock’s career, however, came in 1848 when, at the age of twenty-nine, he was asked by Sir James Clark Ross to join his expedition as second lieutenant in the search for Franklin and his ships. Here he would gain firsthand experience in overland sledging and charting coastal waters. McClintock’s biographer described the young lieutenant as having a short, slender, but very wiry and muscular frame well fitted for the endurance of long-continued exertion and hardships. 7 Still in his early thirties, McClintock would also play an active role in two other Admiralty searches: in 1850 as first lieutenant on the Assistance, one of four ships sent out by the Admiralty under the command of Captain Horatio Austin; then in 1852 in charge of the tender Intrepid, under fellow Irishman Captain Henry Kellett who led the western group of Sir Edward Belcher’s expedition. Although his ship would be one of four abandoned under Belcher’s orders, McClintock would again be promoted upon his return, this time to the rank of captain.

When the Admiralty refused to continue the search after Dr. John Rae reported hearing stories about white men abandoning their ships and about their apparent demise, Lady Jane Franklin did not to give up. She purchased a ship, the ‘Fox,’ and hired McClintock to lead a private expedition in hopes of finding out what really happened to her husband. Suffice to say, the forty-year-old Irish captain succeeded where so many others failed—in a hundred-and-seventy-ton yacht and with the assistance of only twenty-four officers and men, plus a Danish translator, and two Inuuk from Greenland. He returned home with hundreds of relics and an official document that not only dated Sir Franklin’s death, but verified the abandonment of the ships and attempt by the remaining men to travel overland to the mainland.

McClintock and his men were given a hero’s welcome by senior officers of the Admiralty, presented with gold medals, and granted an audience with Queen Victoria. To Lady Franklin’s delight, he also had proven that the Franklin expedition was the first to locate a route through the Northwest Passage, even though more than a half century would pass before a ship actually traversed a route from east to west. As commander, he was awarded many honours in Britain and Ireland, including a knighthood, freedom of the cities of London and Dublin, and honorary degrees from Oxford, Glasgow, and Dublin, as well as being made a Fellow of both the Royal Geographical Society (RGS) and the Royal Society. Out of gratitude, Lady Jane offered him the ‘Fox,’ which he graciously declined. 8

Less than a year after his return, McClintock set out one more time for the Arctic, this time on HMS Bulldog, in charge of the British North Atlantic Telegraph Expedition to investigate a line from Scotland to Labrador by way of Iceland and Greenland. After a period of regular assignments in more southerly waters, he retired to Ireland on leave in 1867, where he unsuccessfully sought a seat in the Irish Parliament. During the election campaign, he met Annette Elizabeth Dunlop of Monasterboice. Three years later—McClintock now fifty-one—they were married at Mellifont, Ireland, then took up residence in London, where they raised three sons and two daughters. The eldest son served as a reserve officer in the South African war; the second became a commander in the Royal Navy; and the third, an army major in the Royal Engineers. 9

In 1871, McClintock was promoted to rear-admiral and after several postings was made commander-in-chief of the North Atlantic and West Indies station. A day prior to his retirement on July 8, 1884, he was elevated to the rank of admiral. He continued to take a keen interest in polar exploration as a member of Admiralty’s Arctic Committee, played a major role in organizing the Nares Expedition of 1875–6, and, following his retirement, helped plan Robert Scott’s first trip to Antarctica (1901–4). 10 Initiatives to improve the lives of seamen included involvement with the Royal Alfred Aged Merchant Seamen’s Institute and the National Lifeboat Institution. After a period of ill health, he passed away on November 17, 1907 at the age of eighty-eight—in the eyes of his contemporaries a true hero of nineteenth-century Arctic exploration. 11 The venerable ‘Fox’ outlasted him and was still plying the waters off Greenland until 1912, when she ran aground near Attu. She was later towed to Qeqetarssuaq Harbour at Disco, where she was permanently grounded on a sandbar, dismantled, and laid to rest on her side—for many years, she was a tourist attraction until breaking up under gale-force winds in 1940. 12

Although Sir McClintock is best remembered for having established the fate of the Franklin Expedition, his contribution to the art of man-haul sledging was once considered significant until Robert Scott’s tragic death in 1912 in Antarctica. Seeking to lay blame, criticism mounted against the British system of man-haul sledging. Yet, with one exception, 13 most historians note that McClintock himself had suggested greater use of dogs and that the system he is credited with perfecting should be considered in the context of the circumstances he faced in 1859 and the success of his mission.

Honoured among his peers as a leader who inspired confidence, George Benedict Davenport offered a rather laconic description of McClintock’s character:

As admiral he was reserved and somewhat indisposed to talk. He was self-controlled. He was habitually quiet and perfectly calm, seeing everything done himself without noise or fuss. He weighed a question for some time before acting, but when once his mind was made up he acted promptly. He was full of kindly quiet humor, which smoothed away difficulties. He seemed to live above the petty annoyances of daily life. His judgment of others was always generous, and scandalous or unkind talk never failed to arouse his indignation. He was economical, even rigid toward himself in money matters, and very generous to others . . . His personal tastes and habits were simple. He was governed by a deep religious feeling. His writings are accurate and free from display. 14

Recent biographer David Murphy suggested that McClintock’s writings and correspondence reflected a pragmatic approach to life . . . tempered by a natural reserve. 15

On a more personal note, it was over thirty years ago that I impulsively purchased a copy of the fifth edition of McClintock’s Voyage of the ‘Fox’ from a dusty secondhand shop. The book accompanied me on my first visit to Greenland and Pond Inlet in 1984, and again when visiting Beechey Island and Port Leopold twenty-two years later. For the sake of preservation, it stayed home in the summer of 2011, when we sailed from Kugluktuk (Coppermine) to Iqaluit by way of Victory Point, Bellot Strait, and on through Hecla and Fury Strait.

On re-reading the book from cover to cover, I was struck by the fact that while the major landforms were identical to the descriptions written over one hundred and fifty years earlier, the lack of sea-ice served as a stark reminder of the dramatic effect of global warming throughout the Arctic. The impenetrable polar seas experienced by Sir Leopold McClintock may well have disappeared forever.

Perhaps the most unexpected moment was arriving at the abandoned trading post at Fort Ross to find a modern cairn sitting on a small hill overlooking the protected harbour. Closer examination revealed a cast-stone memorial erected upon the occasion of the one hundred and twentieth anniversary of McClintock’s discoveries, marking the location of Port Kennedy at the eastern entrance of Bellot Strait where the ‘Fox’ had been set in ice for the second winter of the expedition. A copper plaque bolted onto the cairn bore a small crest bearing the motto Virtute et Labore (meaning, success by virtue and labour). Underneath was the following inscription:

THIS CAIRN HAS BEEN PROVIDED BY MEMBERS OF THE MCCLINTOCK FAMILY IN PROUD MEMORY OF ADMIRAL SIR FRANCIS LEOPOLD MCCLINTOCK—THE DISCOVERER OF THE FATE OF FRANKLIN—1859

Listed below were twenty names, eleven bearing the surname McClintock. Among them were a Captain, a Rear-Admiral (surgeon), a Baronet, a Lady, and a church Canon. At the bottom was the site and date of erection: bellot strait – 1979. In a sense, the memorial seemed more than just a tribute to the famous explorer. It served as a reminder that Virtute et Labore was living on through his children and grandchildren.

The cairn had been erected on a very cold and blustery day, April 5, 1979. In attendance were John O’Neil McClintock from Northern Ireland and from England, Nicholas McClintock, Priory Secretary General of the London Order of St. John. Reportedly a small canister was placed in the cairn, containing postage stamps, a few coins, documents, and a lock of hair belonging to Sir McClintock’s father. 16

There is more to learn about this courageous captain and his years with the British Admiralty, but there is no better place to start than his narrative of the 1857–1859 Arctic expedition—a must-read for yet another generation of armchair adventurers and scholars.

Shelagh D. Grant, MA, FRCGS

December 2011

Peterborough, Ontario

PREFACE

TO THE FIRST EDITION.

By SIR RODERICK I. MURCHISON, Bart., F.R.S.,

PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY

The following narrative of the bold adventure which has successfully revealed the last discoveries and the fate of Franklin is published at the request of the friends of that illustrious navigator. The gallant McClintock, when he penned his journal amid the arctic ices, had no idea whatever of publishing it; and yet there can be no doubt that the reader will peruse with the deepest interest the simple tale of how, in a little vessel of 170 tons burthen, he and his well-chosen companions have cleared up this great mystery.

To the honour of the British nation, and also, let it be said, to that of the United States of America, many have been the efforts made to discover the route followed by our missing explorers. The highly deserving men who have so zealously searched the arctic seas and lands in this cause must now rejoice that, after all their anxious toils, the merit of rescuing from the frozen North the record of the last days of Franklin has fallen to the share of his noble-minded widow.

Lady Franklin has, indeed, well shown what a devoted and true-hearted Englishwoman can accomplish. The moment that relics of the expedition commanded by her husband were brought home (in 1854) by Rae, and that she heard of the account given to him by the Esquimaux of a large party of Englishmen having been seen struggling with difficulties on the ice near the mouth of the Back or Great Fish River, she resolved to expend all her available means (already much exhausted in four other independent expeditions) in an exploration of the limited area to which the search must thenceforward be necessarily restricted.

Whilst the supporters of Lady Franklin’s efforts were of opinion that the Government ought to have undertaken a search, the extent of which was, for the first time, definitely limited, it is but rendering justice to the then Prime Minister 1 to state that he had every desire to carry out the wishes of the men of science 2 who appealed to him, and that he was precluded from acceding to their petition by nothing but the strongly expressed opinion of official authorities, that after so many failures the Government were no longer justified in sending out more brave men to encounter fresh dangers in a cause which was viewed as hopeless. Hence it devolved on Lady Franklin and her friends to be the sole means of endeavouring to bring to light the true history of her husband’s voyage and fate.

Looking to the list of Naval worthies who, during the preceding years, had been exploring the Arctic Regions, Lady Franklin was highly gratified when she obtained the willing services of Captain McClintock to command the yacht ‘Fox,’ which she had purchased; for that officer had signally distinguished himself in the voyages of Sir James Ross and Captain (now Admiral) Austin, and especially in his extensive journeys on the ice when associated with Captain Kellett. With such a leader she could not but entertain sanguine hopes of success when the fast and well-adapted little vessel sailed from Aberdeen on the 1st of July, 1857, upon this eventful enterprise.

Deep, indeed, was the mortification experienced by every one who shared the feelings and anticipations of Lady Franklin when the untoward news came, in the summer of 1858, that, the preceding winter having set in earlier than usual, the ‘Fox’ had been beset in the ice off Melville Bay, on the coast of Greenland, and after a dreary winter, various narrow escapes, and eight months of imprisonment, had been carried back by the floating ice nearly twelve hundred geographical miles—even to 63½° N. lat. in the Atlantic! See the sketch-map, No. 1.

But although the good little yacht had been most roughly handled among the ice-floes (see here), we were cheered up by the information from Disco that, with the exception of the death of the engine-driver, in consequence of a fall into the hold, the crew were in stout health and full of energy, and that, provided with sufficient fuel and provisions, a good supply of sledging dogs, two tried Esquimaux, and the excellent interpreter Petersen the Dane, 3 ample grounds yet remained to lead us to hope for a successful issue. Above all, we were encouraged by the proofs of the self-possession and calm resolve of McClintock, who held steadily to the accomplishment of his original project; the more so as he had then tested and recognised the value of the services of Lieutenant (now Commander) Hobson, his able second in command; of Captain Allen Young, his generous volunteer associate; 4 and of Dr. Walker, his accomplished Surgeon.

Despite, however, of these reassuring data, many an advocate of this search was anxiously alive to the chance of the failure of the venture of one unassisted yacht, which after sundry mishaps was again starting to cross Baffin Bay, with the foreknowledge that, when she reached the opposite coast, the real difficulties of the enterprise were to commence.

Any such misgivings were happily illusory; and the reader who follows McClintock across the middle ice of Baffin Bay to Ponds Inlet, thence to Beechey Island, down a portion of Peel Strait, and then through the hitherto unnavigated waters of Bellot Strait in one summer season, may reasonably expect the success which followed.

Whilst the revelation obtained from the long-sought records, which were discovered by Lieutenant Hobson, is most satisfactory to those who speculated on the probability of Franklin having, in the first instance, tried to force his way northwards through Wellington Channel (as we now learn he did), those who held a different hypothesis, namely, that he followed his instructions, which directed him to the S.-W., may be amply satisfied that in the following season the ships did pursue this southerly course till they were finally beset in N. lat. 70° 05'. 5

At the same time, the public should fully understand the motive which prompted the supporters of Lady Franklin in advocating this last search. Putting aside the hope which some of us entertained, that a few of the younger men of the missing expedition might still be found to be living among the Esquimaux, we had every reason to expect that, if the ships were discovered, the scientific documents of the voyage, including valuable magnetic observations, would be recovered.

In the absence of such good fortune, we may, however, well be gladdened by the discovery of that one precious document which gives us a true outline of the voyage of the ‘Erebus’ and ‘Terror.’

That the reader may comprehend the vast extent of sea traversed by Franklin in the two summers before his ships were beset, a small map (No. 2) is introduced, representing all the lands and seas of the arctic regions to the west of Lancaster Sound which were known and laid down when he sailed. The dotted lines and arrows, which extend from the then known seas and lands into the unknown waters or blank spaces on this old map indicate Franklin’s route, the novelty, range, rapidity, and boldness of which, as thus delineated, may well surprise the geographer, and even the most enterprising arctic sailor. 6 For, those who have not closely attended to the results of other arctic voyages may be informed that rarely has an expedition in the first year accomplished more by its ships than the establishing of good winter quarters, from whence the real researches began by sledge-work in the ensuing spring. Franklin, however, not only reached Beechey Island, but ascended Wellington Channel, then an unknown sea, to 77° N. lat., a more northern latitude in this meridian than that attained long afterwards in ships by Sir Edward Belcher, and much to the north of the points reached by Penny and De Haven. Next, though most scantily provided with steam-power, Franklin navigated round Cornwallis Land, which he thus proved to be an