Propagation of Plants - With Chapters on Propagation by Seed, Bulbs, Runners, Cuttings and Other Methods
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Propagation of Plants - With Chapters on Propagation by Seed, Bulbs, Runners, Cuttings and Other Methods - William Watson
Propagation of Plants
By
William Watson
PROPAGATION
I. Propagation by Seed—II. Propagation by Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers—III. Propagation by Division—IV. Propagation by Runners—V. Propagation by Suckers—VI. Propagation by Layers—VII. Propagation by Cuttings—VIII. Propagation by Leaves—IX. Propagation by Roots—X. Propagation by Grafting—XI. Propagation by Budding—XII. Propagation by Inarching.
PROPAGATION
The art of multiplying plants by other than natural methods is an important department of gardening. It is based on experience extending over centuries, and its successful application has been the means of raising stock expeditiously which otherwise would not have been possible.
Many plants fail to produce seeds when under cultivation; others do not succeed unless they are grafted on to another kind; whilst a large proportion of garden varieties cannot be reproduced and perpetuated by means of seeds, and vegetative methods must be relied upon for them.
I.—PROPAGATION BY SEED
This mode of reproduction is common to almost all plants in their natural state. From seed the most healthy and vigorous plants are developed. Those characteristics which cultivators are most interested in, such as colour, size, form, &c., are not always reproduced in seedlings, especially of those plants which have been modified by cultivation. For instance, the seeds of Ribston Pippin Apple, Gloire de Dijon Rose, and Mrs. Pollock Pelargonium would not reproduce the characteristics of their parents. Only those plants whose characters are fixed and hereditary are to be relied upon to come true from seeds.
In this country seeds generally ripen in autumn, and in most cases germination does not take place till spring; yet they mostly fall from the plant in autumn, for were they to remain on the plant they would be injured by exposure By an admirable provision of nature, the seeds of our largest trees, as the Oak, Beech, and Chestnut, drop before the fall of the leaves, which then cover them to the depth of some inches. The leaves decay in the course of the winter, and form towards spring a light covering of leaf-mould, highly favourable to vegetation. Small seeds, such as those of the Lime and Ash, do not begin to drop till after the leaves have commenced to fall, and are thus placed at a less depth.
From this it may be concluded that seeds have under purely natural conditions a light covering to assist germination. Although the Oak thrives well in strong deep loam, yet, self-sown, the acorns are, as a rule, in leaf-mould. Hence it may be inferred that the soil best adapted for the growth of a plant is not always that which should be selected for its seeds to be sown in, and that all except large seeds are best sown in fine, light soil, easily permeable to the young roots as well as to the plumule Large seeds should not be buried much below the surface, whilst small seeds should be covered one-tenth of an inch, and the depth of covering should be increased somewhat in proportion to the size of the seeds. Those of the Bean and Oak may be 2 inches deep, the Walnut and Chestnut 3 inches. Seeds sown out-of-doors often require to be buried deeper than is necessary for germination, to protect them from vermin, &c. A good general rule is to bury all seeds to the depth of their smallest diameter Very small seeds should not be covered
For successful propagation by seeds several conditions are necessary: 1. That the seeds have been perfectly ripened. 2. That they have been properly kept till the period of sowing. 3. That they be sown at the proper time. 4. That the sowing be performed in the proper manner.
1. Perfection and Maturity of Seeds.—The perfection and maturity of seeds can be generally determined by their external and internal appearance, and in many cases by their specific gravity, their sinking or swimming in water being usually a good test. Most seeds germinate readily if sown as soon as ripe; indeed some, such as those of Primula and Hellebore, are best gathered and sown before they become quite ripe.
The seeds of Cyclamen, if sown when fresh, germinate in a few weeks, but, if allowed to get dry and hard, they take much longer, and sometimes fail