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    Simplicity Sewing Book for Young Fashion Designers
    Simplicity Sewing Book for Young Fashion Designers
    Simplicity Sewing Book for Young Fashion Designers
    Ebook364 pages1 hour

    Simplicity Sewing Book for Young Fashion Designers

    By Anon Anon

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    About this ebook

    Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateSep 19, 2016
    ISBN9781473355378
    Simplicity Sewing Book for Young Fashion Designers

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      Book preview

      Simplicity Sewing Book for Young Fashion Designers - Anon Anon

      THE Hows and Whys OF

      GOOD DRESSMAKING

      GOOD DRESSMAKING is a matter of knowing how and sticking to a few simple rules. If you plan every step you will find that your garment goes together like magic . . . avoiding the disappointments which so often result from uninformed short cuts.

      Skilled dressmakers use certain methods which are actually the surest, easiest and quickest methods. They are the ones which are essential to give a garment that professional touch. Simplicity has perfected them and shows them all to you in your Simplicity Sewing Book.

      WITH SIMPLICITY PATTERNS you will avoid that home-made look: first of all, because of the perfect styling of Simplicity Patterns and secondly, because of the expert sewing methods explained by Simplicity. Such trifles are so often the difference between smart and dowdy-looking clothes; such trifles as not reading the pattern instructions thoroughly; not basting all seams that may need fitting and testing; perhaps a lack of care in turning the hem and even such a detail as sewing on buttons too tightly.

      Each of these points and scores of others are explained to you clearly in your Simplicity Sewing book. The clothes you make the Simplicity way will have that longed-for professional look.

      CHOOSE YOUR SIMPLICITY PATTERN FIRST. Making a plan, getting everything ready before you begin to work on a garment is the most important part of making your own clothes . . successfully. First, buy your Simplicity pattern, because it gives the key to everything else, choosing from the scores of fashion-right designs for every occasion which are shown in the Simplicity catalogue.

      Buy your pattern by bust measure.

      With the pattern as a basis, secure all the things needed to make the finished garment—the fabric, the notions, the slide fastener, etc. See the pattern envelope for suggestions.

      Check on your stock of needles and pins and other staple supplies. (See Page 4). Have buttons and buckles covered, if you are going to have this done at a shop.

      When all these supplies are assembled, you are ready to begin the making of a smart new addition to your wardrobe. As the first working step, read all through the Simplicity Primer, the instruction sheet that accompanies the pattern. Then go merrily ahead, referring often to your Simplicity Sewing Book.

      IF YOU ARE A BEGINNER, with little or no knowledge of sewing, let the first garment you make be a simple one. Rather than attempt a dress right away, make a little apron. It will be a practice garment, but it will surely turn out to be useful and attractive.

      THE BASIC STEPS THE BEGINNER NEEDS TO USE IN MAKING AN APRON, AS DESCRIBED BELOW, ARE MARKED WITH A STAR THROUGHOUT THIS BOOK.

      On your first sewing venture, follow this working plan:

      1. Read the starred articles in your Simplicity Sewing Book.

      2. Select a Simplicity Pattern for an apron. A bib style, trimmed with rick rack, is an excellent starter; and this working plan is based on it.

      3. Choose a gay percale for the fabric, noting the yardage suggested on your pattern envelope. Percale is a firm, easily handled material, and quite inexpensive. After buying the fabric, purchase the notions listed on the pattern envelope, and the rickrack braid for trimming.

      4. Assemble your sewing equipment. (See Page 4 for the things you will need).

      5. Read through the instructions given in the Simplicity Primer which accompanies your Simplicity Pattern.

      6. Mark the layout for your width of material given in the Simplicty Primer. Lay out the pattern, cut out your garment, and transfer the markings from the pattern, referring to pages 16, 17 and 18 in this book. Run a basting thread down the center front of the garment; and down the center back, if there is a back.

      7. Baste the garment together, following the Simplicity Primer instructions, step by step. See pages 21 and 29 for information on basting and basting stitches.

      Make darts at side of bib, if they are indicated in the pattern. (See Page 45). These should be made on the sewing machine. (See Page 34).

      Gather where indicated. See Gathering at Seamline, and Spacing Gathers, Page 42.

      Make seam as indicated on the pattern. (For a lapped seam, see Page 39).

      If the apron is to be hemmed at the bottom, see Page 48 and the pages following for methods of making hems. For hand-hemming stitches, see Page 33.

      When you are ready to finish the edge with rick-rack, see Page 74.

      8. Give your apron a final pressing, and wear it with pride. It will have shown you how easy it is to sew well. It will have started you on the gay adventure of making your own clothes.

      THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT Fabrics

      Your Simplicity Pattern envelope gives full details about the length of material to buy. For special information on plaids and one-way materials, see Page 15. Always test a scrap of your fabric for washing and pressing qualities before you begin to work on it.

      COTTON: Cotton materials woven of long-fibre cotton are the most durable, and durability is increased by mercerization. Purchase fastcolor cottons, as setting colors at home is rarely successful. Many cottons today are pre-shrunk. Should you choose one which is not, buy two or three extra inches per yard, and shrink the material before using. To shrink cottons: Fold goods and thoroughly soak in cold water for several hours. Squeeze water out, and roll fabric in a Turkish towel for a few minutes. While still folded, hang fabric over a clothesline until almost dry. Press on wrong side, without a press cloth.

      WOOL: All-wool fabrics include worsteds and woolens. In worsteds the yarn is combed and tightly twisted, giving added durability. Fashionable fabrics include many weaves which are of wool combined with other textiles, such.as rayon, cotton, or silk. Consult the store where they were bought as to pre-shrinking and care. All-wool materials should be sponged before they are used. This is a service which many stores offer, or you may have a tailor do it. If you must sponge the fabric at home, clip the selvedge edges and lay the fabric flat in a single thickness on a large table. Wring a sheet out of cold water and lay it on the wool material, then roll them together and let them remain over night. As you unroll the woolen, press it gently with a moderately hot iron, through a press cloth, until it is dry. Always use a damp press cloth on woolens.

      SILK: Pure-dye silks are most desirable for garments which are washed frequently. Some silks are weighted for added richness. Spun silk is made from short fibres and clean silk waste which has been combed and spun like cotton. In the burning test, pure silk appears to melt, forming tiny bubbles, which are easily crushed, and giving off a smell similar to burning hair. Weighted silk, when burned, leaves an ash in the original form of the fibre. Most silks should be pressed without moisture. Use a moderate iron on the wrong side.

      LINEN: Long, smooth fibres make the most durable linen fabrics. To test for linen, place a wet finger on the wrong side of fabric. If the moisture immediately shows through, the fabric is linen. When the linen you buy is not pre-shrunk, shrink by the method described for cotton. Iron on right side with a hot iron, while wet.

      RAYON: This beautiful synthetic textile comes in weights and weaves for every imaginable use, many of which are washable. Strong and durable when dry, rayon loses some of its strength when wet, and so should be washed with care. It regains all its strength when dry again. Press new rayon fabrics with a comparatively cool iron, on the wrong side, using little or no moisture. After washing, most rayons should be gently stretched to shape while slightly damp, then pressed. Always use a press cloth on acetates.*

      *This information on Rayon is the consensus of opinion from most reliable sources.

      ARRANGING YOUR Sewing Corner

      FOR CONVENIENCE AND SPEED

      You will find that you can sew much more quickly and skillfully when you have a reasonable degree of privacy. If you are not one of the lucky women with a sewing room, at least arrange a convenient sewing corner.

      Furnish the corner with a large table for cutting, a chest of drawers for your materials, and a full-length mirror. Make room for your ironing board, too, as it should always be ready for pressing seams and darts when you are sewing. Place your sewing machine before a window if possible. For night work and dark days, arrange a drop light over your cutting table; and, by all means, have a light on your sewing machine.

      PROPER EQUIPMENT Helps Make the Expert—Acquire it Gradually

      Check the list below for the things a well-equipped sewing room should have. From time to time you may want to add a few other things for specialized types of sewing.

      SHEARS: Buy good ones, with about a nine-inch blade, and use them only for dressmaking.

      PINKING SHEARS are a time-saver; and a small pair of scissors is useful for handwork.

      NEEDLES: Get an assortment of sizes in both hand and machine needles. See Page 28.

      YOUR THREAD SUPPLY should include cotton basting thread, and silk thread for basting velvet and fabrics that mar easily. See Page 28 for the kind of silk, cotton, or mercerized thread best suited to your fabric.

      PINS: Use dressmaker pins, as these will not mar fabric. Have a pin cushion handy so you can pick up pins as you work.

      THIMBLE: Choose a light-weight one that fits well, and learn to use it. It protects your finger and increases your speed.

      TAPE MEASURE: A sixty-inch tape measure, marked on both sides, is the most practical kind.

      YARD STICK: Needed for marking long lines and taking skirt lengths. (An automatic skirt marker is an excellent thing also). A 6-inch ruler is useful as a gauge,

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