Authentic Recipes from Santa Fe
By Dave Dewitt, Nancy Gerlach and Eduardo Fuss
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About this ebook
Nestled at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Santa Fe has the spirit of the Native American, Spanish, Mexican and Anglo-American settlers who built it--and an exciting cuisine to match. Some of today's hottest Santa Fe chefs are incorporating the region's staple ingredients--rice, beans, squash and chiles--into mouthwatering new tex-mex dishes.
Authentic Southwestern recipes include:
- Mexican Corn Chowder from The Pink Adobe Restaurant
- Carne Adovada from Marie's New Mexican Kitchen
- Rack of Lamb with Heirloom Bean Ragout from Santecafe
- Orange-marinated Chicken Fajitas from Santa Fe School of Cooking
- Red Corn Rubbed Chicken from Inn of the Anasazi
- Chilean Sea Bass Napoleon from La Casa Sena
- Taco-nolis from Cafe Pasqual's
Dave Dewitt
Dave DeWitt is a food historian and one of the foremost authorities in the world on chile peppers, spices, and spicy foods. He has published fifty-six books, including Chile Peppers: A Global History (UNM Press). He lives in Albuquerque, New Mexico.
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Authentic Recipes from Santa Fe - Dave Dewitt
Published by Periplus Editions with editorial offices at 61 Tai Seng Avenue #02-12, Singapore 534167
Copyright © 2006 Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4629-0541-6 (ebook)
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All recipes were tested in the Periplus Test Kitchen.
Photo credits: The painting on the cover is by Amanda Grogan.
Printed in Hong Kong
12 11 10 09
5 4 3 2
Acknowledgments:
The publisher would like to thank Robert Shure, Marie Romero Cash, Peggy Jackson, Robin Ann Powell, Rosalea Murphy, Christy Teetor, Emilio Romero, Jr., Gregory Lomayesva and Heidi Loewen for their generosity and their willingness to open their homes and studios to us; Jose L. Villegas, Sr. at the State Records Center and Archives and the staff at the Palace of Governors; and Denice Skrepcinski for her invaluable help in preparing the food for photography. A very special thank you to Paula Summers who helped in innumerable ways and to Mrs Ong for her culinary expertise and eye for detail, and to the many chefs and artists for their enthusiastic participation in this project. And to the people of Santa Fe, a big thank you for their warmth and hospitality.
Contents
Food in Santa Fe 4
The Santa Fe Kitchen 18
A Guide to Chiles 22
Authentic Santa Fe Ingredients 24
Sauces and Salsas
Roasted Corn and Black Bean Salsa 29
Green Tomatillo Sauce 29
Chile Piquín Salsa 29
Chile Colorado 30
Chipotle Sauce 30
Green Chile Sauce 30
New Mexican Green Chile Salsa 31
Other Basics
Taco or Tostada Shells 32
Pickled Red Onions 31
Saffron Rice 31
Appetizers
Corn Chips with Melted Cheese, Chiles and Pinto Beans 32
Goat Cheese and Roast Pepper Quesadillas 34
Lobster Ceviche with Plantain Chips 35
Spicy Sautéed Shrimp 37
Ceviche 37
Sautéed Wild Mushrooms with Spaghetti Squash 38
Moroccan Eggplant with Cilantro Pesto 38
Spanish Tortilla 39
Grilled Swordfish Tacos 40
Catalan Pancakes with Lobster and Crab 43
Blue Crab Cakes 44
Soups and Stews
Garlic Soup 45
Black Bean Soup 46
Mexican Corn Chowder 46
Green Chile Stew 48
Main Dishes
Posole 51
Dried Corn Stew 51
Huevos Rancheros 53
Chile Bacon Muffins 53
Chiles Rellenos 54
Southwest Summer Vegetable Tamales 59
Venison Red Chile Stew 59
Roasted Poblano Chiles Stuffed with Quinoa, Mushrooms and Pine Nuts 60
Grilled Steaks with Chimayó, Chile and Cumin 63
Steak Dunigan 64
Carne Adovada 65
Rack of Lamb with Heirloom Bean Ragout 66
Orange-marinated Chicken Fajitas 69
Santa Fe Coleslaw 69
Tacos and Tostadas 71
Red Corn Rubbed Chicken 72
Blue Corn Stacked Chicken Enchiladas 73
Chipotle Beef and Bean Burritos 75
Pollo Pibil 76
Fire-roasted Vegetables 76
Chilean Sea Bass Napoleon 79
Trout in Adobe 80
Vegetables and Rice
Greens with Beans and Chile 83
Drunken Beans 83
Chipotle Crema Morel Stew 84
Potatoes with Red Chile 87
Squash and Corn with Green Chile 87
Ramp Tart 88
Spanish Rice 91
Green Rice 91
Breads
Jalapeño Cheddar Cornbread 92
Chile-flavored Butters 92
Corn Tortillas 95
Flour Tortillas 96
Anasazi Flatbread 96
Pueblo Bread 97
Fried Bread 97
Desserts
Taco-nolis 98
Arroz Con Leche 100
Capriotada with Raspberry Sauce and Whipped Cream 100
Cajeta Sundae with Toasted Piñon Cookie 102
Granita 103
Vanilla Flan 105
Natillas 105
Empanaditas with Apricot Pecan Filling 107
Drinks
Maria’s Margarita 108
The Elizabeth II 108
Maria’s Famous La Ultima Margarita 110
El Amor de Oro Margarita 110
Chimayó Cocktail 111
24-Karat Gold Reserve 111
Complete list of recipes 112
Measurements and conversions 112
Food in Santa Fe
The City Different
melds local traditions with a hip, modern style
In just a few short decades, Santa Fe has become the magical city of the Southwest, a destination for artists, writers, chefs and of course, tourists. Nicknamed The City Different, Santa Fe’s reputation for tolerating individuality has had much to do with its attraction as a place to live. Its tremendous appeal as a trendy place to visit is the result of countless articles and books about the landscape, the art scene, the cuisine, the architecture and the Santa Fe look-in clothing and jewelry—all part of what is termed Santa Fe style. And though its overexposure has fostered a certain Santa Fe blasé, there is just no denying the incredible charm of the place.
The city is on a high desert mesa at seven thousand feet above sea level, offering spectacular views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains that tower above it. The sun always seems to shine in Santa Fe and the quality of the light and the beauty of the mesas have drawn artists to the city for decades. The city’s adobe architecture, unchanged for centuries, reveals Santa Fe’s deep Native American roots. The buildings in the historic district—even new ones—all share the same ocher color and smooth mud finish.
Santa Fe residents view the huge influx of tourists each year as just a continuation of history. After all, during the past four hundred years Sante Fe has been controlled by Native Americans, Spaniards, Mexicans, Americans and Confederates. Each of these groups helped create the flavors of Santa Fe.
The first food fusion of Santa Fe occurred when Spanish settlers from Mexico founded the city in 1598, bringing European and Mexican ingredients that were combined with the corn cuisine of the native Pueblo Indians. New Mexican cuisine can thus be viewed as the northern-most of the Mexican regional cuisines; it is also the spiciest because of the New Mexicans’ love of chile peppers. The second food fusion occurred when Anglo-Americans arrived with new ingredients, recipes and restaurants offering the standard meat and potatoes of the eastern United States. But what has really placed Santa Fe on the culinary map has occurred during the last twenty-five years: a proliferation of fine restaurants that have vastly expanded the concept of Southwestern cooking.
Many of Santa Fe’s restaurants are the epitome of the concept of fusion, offering dishes that bridge the culinary gaps between cultures. Despite the international flavors, traditions are still strong. In homes and restaurants, visitors will still discover the delicious New Mexican dishes that depend upon the most basic New World ingredients: corn, beans, squash and chile peppers.
Corn is held sacred by Native Americans and has been an important part of the Southwestern diet for centuries. The rich colors of this Indian corn only appear once the corn has dried; when it is fresh the corn is a more subdued yellow or white.
Native Americans and Their Food
When the first Spanish explorers ventured north from Mexico City in the sixteenth century and wandered into what is now the American Southwest, they encountered the descendants of a great prehistoric civilization, the Anasazi. These Native Americans, known as the Pueblo Indians, were clustered along the Rio Grande near present-day Santa Fe in separate villages, or pueblos. They made excellent use of nearly every edible animal and plant substance imaginable. For protein, the Native Americans hunted and trapped deer, rabbits, quail, pronghorn, bison and many other mammals and birds. The meat of this game was usually grilled over coals or added to a pot and turned into a stew.
However, some tribes (such as the Apaches) had taboos against eating certain animals that they regarded as repulsive: snakes, fish and owls, for example. Later on, after the appearance of European food animals, game was viewed as poor man’s meat.
Today, of course, game has made a comeback because of its exotic nature and appeal to adventurous diners.
The food plants eaten by the Native Americans were divided into two categories: those harvested in the wild and those cultivated plants that had managed to adapt to the dry desert climate or were irrigated. Harvested wild plants included acorns (from which flour was made), berries such as chokecherry and juniper, yucca fruits, various herbs such as wild mint, mushrooms, mesquite seeds (sometimes called beans) and agave hearts (mescal), which were roasted in pits by the Mescalero Apaches and other tribes. Three other wild crops were very important in Native American cooking (and are most commonly used today): cacti, piñon nuts and chiltepíns (wild, berrylike chile peppers). The cactus fruits and leaves were usually eaten raw, as in salads, while the piñon nuts were usually mixed with honey as a snack or dessert. Chiltepíns were used as a pungent spice before the Spanish introduced domesticated chiles.
Even though wild crops were important, the ancient Anasazi culture of the Southwest—and later the Pueblo Indians—depended on some important domesticated crops: corn, beans, squash and (after the Spanish arrived) chile peppers. It is not a coincidence that these foods are the foundation of Southwestern cuisine. Although domesticated in Mexico and Central America, these crops had moved north to what is now New Mexico long before the Spanish arrived.
Here in New Mexico we not only claim the oldest regional cuisine in the United States but continue to enjoy many of the foods that have been part of the Native American diet for hundreds or even thousands of years. Despite the influences of these ingredients, Native American cuisine these days has mostly been incorporated into what has become New Mexican cuisine, so wild plants and game are no longer as common as they once were.
Corn is so important to Native Americans that it serves as the basis of the cuisine and also plays a pivotal role in their religion and many of their ceremonies. The four kinds of corn—yellow, white, red and blue—were a gift from the gods or creator who taught the people how to plant, harvest, and use it before they were allowed to walk Mother Earth.
Beans, domesticated ten thousand years ago in Peru, even predate cultivated corn. Easy to grow and store, beans quickly became an essential part of the Native American diet. The Hopi grow fourteen kinds of beans in a variety of colors, which when combined with corn provide a complete protein source for times when game is scarce. Chile, another staple in the diet, was domesticated in both South and Central America about the same time as beans and also migrated north. And although there is little doubt that domesticated chile was introduced to Native Americans of the Southwest by the Spaniards, there is evidence that at least the wild chiltepín was already growing in the Southwest when the Spaniards arrived.
The Deer Dance at San Juan