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Japanese Knitting: Patterns for Sweaters, Scarves and More: Knits and crochets for experienced needle crafters (15 Knitting Patterns and 8 Crochet Patterns)

Japanese Knitting: Patterns for Sweaters, Scarves and More: Knits and crochets for experienced needle crafters (15 Knitting Patterns and 8 Crochet Patterns)

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Japanese Knitting: Patterns for Sweaters, Scarves and More: Knits and crochets for experienced needle crafters (15 Knitting Patterns and 8 Crochet Patterns)

3/5 (3 évaluations)
255 pages
1 heure
May 29, 2018


Create versatile wardrobe essentials with these chic new Japanese knitting patterns for apparel and accessories from cult favorite author michiyo.

A whole new world of fashionable Tokyo-style knitwear designs opens to experienced needle crafters in Japanese Knitting: Patterns for Sweaters, Scarves and More. It is the first Japanese needlework book to be translated into English. Knitting and crochet websites across the globe often feature the work of renowned Japanese designer michiyo. Her minimalist aesthetic and textural elements make her knitwear styles polished and flattering, whether worn layered or as stand-alone pieces. With this Japanese knitting pattern book, experienced knitters and needleworkers can create a diverse collection of effortless-looking items ranging from a pair of soft slippers to a structured jacket.

An introduction by needlework instructor Gayle Roehm explains the Japanese techniques to readers who are trying them for the first time.

Inside, find patterns and instructions for 15 knitting and 8 crochet projects, including:
  • A Nordic-style sweater
  • A classic raglan cardigan
  • A delicately crocheted cowl
  • A diagonally striped tunic
  • A "sleeve" scarf
  • And much more
Your wardrobe will benefit from the chic and comfortable touch of michiyo's knitwear designs in this newly-translated Japanese stitch dictionary and pattern book.
May 29, 2018

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Japanese Knitting - michiyo



The garments and accessories in this book were designed by michiyo, who uses one name (in lower case) professionally. She’s known in Japan for her casual yet chic designs, often in simple shapes and easy stitch patterns. We hope you’ll enjoy trying them.


These patterns probably look different from the knitting and crochet patterns you’re used to. They’re translated from Japanese, with most of the original format intact. Read through this introduction before you tackle one, and read through your selected pattern as well. You’ll find that the Japanese format is a logical, compact way to present a lot of information.

The designs are not difficult, and you’ll be in good shape if you have some experience with sweater construction. The written instructions are minimal, and most of them are incorporated into the graphic parts of the pattern. Japanese craft publishers tend to assume that you know what you’re doing. You may find that you have to make a left front as a mirror image for a right front, for instance, without separate guidelines for both sides.

Most importantly, you should be comfortable knitting from charts, whether knit or crochet. Japanese designs don’t provide stitch patterns in words. The chart-phobic knitter should probably give this book a pass.

Some of the stitch symbols may be familiar, and all of them are defined on pages 10 to 12, with further explanations on pages 102 to 110. These symbols are used throughout the book, and are not repeated in each pattern. For the crochet charts, the basic stitches are illustrated, then used in various combinations.

Although this book was written for Japanese knitters, every attempt has been made to transform it into a tool that Western knitters can use as they learn the ways of this singular type of knitting. We’ve added sizes to many of the patterns, yarn data to help with yarn substitution (p.45), detailed written explanations, a table of stitch symbols (please note that keys to the symbols are not repeated in each pattern), and other enhancements to help introduce you to the wonderful world of Japanese knitting and crochet.

You’ll see that each pattern includes:

•A section of text at the top, with some of the key information, such as gauge and finished size

•Schematics: a drawing for each part of the garment, with important measurements and shaping info

•Detail Illustrations: usually finishing instructions, sometimes a technique

•Charts for the stitch patterns. Often there’s more than one, and colorwork is also charted.

Here’s what’s in the block of text:

Yarn requirements: the original yarn is given first, and that’s the yarn in the photograph. All yarns used in the book are manufactured by Hamanaka and are not widely available outside Japan. To help with substitution, we’ve included a table of yarns on page 45 that provides basic information: approximate weight, fiber content, and put-up (yards/meters per ball). The next line, Substitution, gives the total yards/meters required for each size and color. The original amounts are increased by about 10% to allow for differences in knitting styles and an overall fudge factor. Since these are approximations, you may want a bit extra to be safe.

Needle and hook sizes: U.S. sizes are given first, followed by metric and Japanese sizes. Keep in mind that the U.S. sizes are an approximation; there isn’t a one-to-one correlation to Japanese needle sizes. Be sure to use the size that gives you gauge.

Gauge: Gauge is normally given over 10cm or 4 inches for the main stitch pattern. If the design uses more than one stitch pattern, you may find more than one gauge, or gauge over a particular motif.

Finished measurements: The measurements here are the actual finished measurements of the piece. Use your best judgement to choose the size that will fit you with the ease you prefer—don’t just assume that you’re always a Medium. The schematics provide much more detail about the finished measurements of each piece of the design. Be sure to check garment and sleeve lengths, which tend to be shorter in Japan. Try making a photocopy and using a marker to highlight the numbers relevant to your size. For practice, you might want to start with an item in just one size, like bag W.

Cm-to-inches conversions: Each pattern includes a table of numbers, in alternating gray and white rows. The gray rows are centimeters, and the white rows are inches. The measurements on the schematics are in centimeters. Find the centimeter measurement on the schematic (for instance, 53/61cm across the back in pattern A, for sizes S–M and L–XL) and look up the corresponding inches measurement in the table (for pattern A, 20⅞ in/24 in). This was done to make the schematic a bit less messy, without two sets of measurements for every dimension.

•Instructions: This section contains abbreviated instructions, which are basically a summary of the construction. Details, like stitch counts and measurements, are mostly incorporated into the schematics. For some patterns, we expanded the instructions when it helped to clarify the pattern.


The schematics are drawings of the pieces you’ll be making. Around the drawings, you’ll see information about measurements, stitch counts, stitch placement, color placement and shaping. In a way, the schematics show you what you need to do. Before you start a garment, study the schematics and be sure to locate the following information

Look for an arrow that shows the direction of work. Some of these garments are bottom-up, some are top down—compare pattern A (p. 46) to pattern B (p. 50).

Identify which piece is which; they’re labeled. Be sure you can see which stitch pattern fits where. In pattern A, for instance, the fronts and back are in stockinette, the collar is in stitch pattern A, and the sleeves are in stitch pattern B. Only the right front is illustrated; the designer assumes that you can create the left front as a mirror image

A line across the schematic means pay attention, because something happens there. It may be a

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