TIME

PLACE AT THE TABLE

SOUTHERN FOOD HAS FINALLY EMBRACED ITS MULTICULTURAL SOUL
Oscar Diaz of the Cortez in Raleigh, N.C., which has become an exemplar of new Southern cuisine

THE SIGNS OF A NUEVO SOUTH ARE IMPOSSIBLE TO miss at Jose and Sons, a buzzy restaurant inside a former train depot in downtown Raleigh, N.C. On a window on the side of a door, HOLA Y’ALL flows in a jolly green script, while HECHO EN RALEIGH snakes across the bar in big block letters.

The slogans are a preview of a menu that seamlessly melds Southern and Mexican classics—think collard-green tamales, pork chops rubbed in al pastor spices, pimento cheese enlivened with chicharrones. “We’re not being ‘authentic’ Mexican, we’re not being ‘authentic’ Southern,” says the 32-year-old owner, Charlie Ibarra. “It’s just who we are.”

Who they are is emblematic of a titanic shift in how the South views itself—and how Americans are finally beginning to view the South. Over the past 30 years, the most racially fraught region of the U.S. has been reshaped by an influx of immigrants. Of the 10 states with the fastest-growing Latino populations between 2000 and 2011, nine were in el Sur. The South’s Asian-American population, meanwhile, totaled 3.8 million in 2010—up 69% since 2000—the largest increase of any minority group. Many of these new arrivals mitigated the tensions that appeared in the

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from TIME

TIME3 min read
Milestones
When King Charles III bestowed new honors on his family members on April 23, St. George’s Day, the batch of titles sounded as grand as can be: his son William, the Prince of Wales, became Great Master of the Most Honourable Order of the Bath; Charles
TIME12 min read
Holding Court
At the BNP Paribas Open in Indian Wells, Calif., maybe the most prestigious nonmajor tournament on the global tennis tour, players conduct their warm-up routines on a patch of grass outside the stadium. Some toss medicine balls to their trainers, whi
TIME2 min read
A Man In Full, Adapted And Redacted
Tom Wolfe’s A Man in Full is a massive book, in more ways than one. The 742-page social novel about a swaggering Atlanta real estate mogul, which took Wolfe over a decade to write, sold a jaw-dropping 1.4 million hardcover copies after its publicatio

Related Books & Audiobooks