Pocket Rough Guide Rome (Travel Guide eBook)
By Rough Guides
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About this ebook
Discover the best of Rome with this compact, practical, entertaining Pocket Rough Guide.
This slim, trim treasure trove of trustworthy travel information is ideal for short trip travellers, and covers all the key sights (the Colosseum, Forum, the Pantheon, the Vatican), restaurants, shops, cafes and bars, plus inspired ideas for day-trips, with honest independent recommendations from expert authors.
Features of Pocket Rough Guide Rome:
Practical travel tips: what to see and where to sleep, eat, drink and shop - Pocket Rough Guide Rome features specially selected recommendations for every taste and budget.
Honest independent reviews: written with Rough Guides' trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, our expert writers will help you make the most of your trip to Rome.
Incisive area-by-area overviews: covering the Centro Storico, Capitoline Hill, the Vatican and more, the practical Places section provides all you need to know about must-see sights and the best places to eat, drink, sleep and shop.
Time-saving itineraries: the routes suggested by Rough Guides' expert writers cover top attractions like the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps, and hidden gems like the fresco-splashed Santi Quattro Coronati and the secret rooms of St Ignatius.
Day-trips - venture further afield to Ostia Antica or Tivoli. This tells you why to go, how to get there, and what to see when you arrive.
Compact format: packed with pertinent practical information, this is a convenient companion when you're out and about exploring Piazza di Spagna or Campo de' Fiori.
Attractive user-friendly design: features fresh magazine-style layout, inspirational colour photography and colour-coded maps throughout.
Essentials: includes invaluable background information on how to get to Villa Borghese, getting around, health, tourist information, festivals and events, plus an A-Z directory and handy language section and glossary.
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Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.
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Reviews for Pocket Rough Guide Rome (Travel Guide eBook)
5 ratings2 reviews
- Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Great guide to a great city. Best for tourist sites - a little weak on restaurants and hotels.
- Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Excellent, as always. Anything and everything you've ever wanted to know about Rome in a practical, logical format.
Book preview
Pocket Rough Guide Rome (Travel Guide eBook) - Rough Guides
CONTENTS
Introduction
What’s new
When to visit
Where to…
Things not to miss
Itineraries
Places
The Centro Storico
Campo de’ Fiori, the Ghetto and around
Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Hill
Ancient Rome
The Tridente, Trevi and Quirinale
Monti, Termini and the Esquiline
The Celian Hill and San Giovanni
The Aventine Hill and south
Trastevere and the Janiculum Hill
Villa Borghese and north
The Vatican
Day-trips
Accommodation
Essentials
Getting around
Directory A-Z
Festivals and events
Chronology
Italian
Small print
ROME
When most people think of Rome they imagine sights and monuments: the Colosseum, Roman Forum, the Vatican and St Peter’s – giant, see-before-you-die sights that are reason enough for a visit. It’s true that there’s no more monumental city in the world than Rome; yet the city is much more than an open-air museum. There’s an unpretentiousness to Italy’s capital and its inhabitants that belies the historical significance and marks it out from its rivals further north. It’s almost as if Rome doesn’t have to try too hard, aware that it is simply the most fascinating city in Italy – and arguably the world. With its vibrant street life, culture and food, the city has a modern and irresistible edge. As a historic place, Rome is special enough, but as a contemporary European capital, it is unique.
Piazza del Popolo
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Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere
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Packed with the relics of well over two thousand years of inhabitation, Rome is a city in which you could spend a month and still only scratch the surface. The city’s eras crowd in on top of one another to a remarkable degree: there are medieval churches atop ancient basilicas and palaces; houses and apartment blocks that incorporate fragments of Roman columns and inscriptions; and roads and piazzas that follow the lines of ancient amphitheatres and stadiums. It’s not an easy place to absorb on one visit, and you need to take things slowly, even if you have only a couple of days here. Most of the sights can be approached from a number of directions, and part of the allure of Rome is stumbling across things by accident, gradually piecing the city together, rather than marching around to a timetable. It’s best to decide on a few key attractions (check out our ideas in "Things Not to Miss" ) and see where your feet take you. Above all, don’t be afraid to just wander.
You’d certainly be mad to risk your blood pressure in any kind of vehicle, and the best way of getting around the city centre is to walk. The same goes for the ancient sites, and probably the Vatican and Trastevere quarter too – although for these last two you might want to jump on a bus or a tram going across the river. Keep public transport for longer hops – down to Testaccio, Ostiense or EUR, or to the catacombs and the Via Appia Antica and, of course, for trips outside the city: to Ostia Antica, Tivoli, the Castelli Romani or nearby beaches.
What’s new
Rome’s ancient sites have been dragged into the twenty-first century with the introduction of virtual reality: at the Domus Aurea , Palazzo Valentini and the Baths of Caracalla , you can now rent VR goggles that restore the structures to their former glory, embellishing the crumbling stone with mosaics and frescoes. After dark, seek out the city’s new crop of speakeasy-style bars; Jerry Thomas Project is one of the best.
When to visit
You can enjoy Rome at any time of year. However, you should, if you can, avoid coming in July and especially August, when it can be uncomfortably hot and most Romans are on holiday – indeed in August you may find many of the restaurants recommended in this book closed. May, June and September are the most pleasant months weather-wise – warm but not unbearably so, and not too humid. April and October can be nice too – the city is less crowded, outside Easter, and days can still be warm and sunny. The winter months can be a good time to visit, but bear in mind that the weather is unpredictable and, while you’ll find everything pleasantly uncrowded, some attractions will have reduced opening hours.
However you get around, Rome’s atmosphere is like no other city’s – a monumental, busy capital and yet an appealingly relaxed one, with a centre that has yet to be consumed by chain stores and multinational hotels. Above all, there has perhaps never been a better time to visit. Rome has finally been hauled into the twenty-first century: museums, churches and other buildings that had been in restoration
as long as anyone can remember have reopened, and some of the city’s historic collections have been rehoused. Plus, the city’s cultural life is thriving, with frequent open-air concerts and a flourishing film festival in October. Transport, too, is being tackled, with the construction of a third metro line, although it may be some time before this is finished.
Whether all this will irrevocably alter the character of the city remains to be seen – the enhanced crowds of visitors, spurred on by the growth of cheap flights in recent years, are certainly having an impact. But it’s a resilient place, with a character like no other, and, for now at least, there’s definitely no place like Rome.
Dining alfresco in Campo de’ Fiori
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< Back to Introduction
Where to…
Shop
The opening of new flagship stores for the likes of Valentino and Fendi has re-energized Rome’s shopping scene in recent years. For designer fashion, head to the streets close to the Spanish Steps – Via Condotti, Via Borgognona and Via del Babuino. Nearby, Via del Corso offers young, affordable fashion; for smarter wares try Via Cola di Rienzo in Prati. There’s a cluster of independent boutiques around Campo de’ Fiori and in Monti, while antique shops line Via dei Coronari. For foodie souvenirs try the markets on Campo de’ Fiori and in Testaccio. The Sunday Porta Portese flea market is a quintessentially Roman experience.
OUR FAVOURITES: Antica Libreria Cascianelli. Ibiz. Valzani.
Eat
Food is one of the highlights of any trip to Rome. You won’t really eat badly anywhere: there are lots of good choices in the Centro Storico, with unassuming, tucked-away trattorias often full of surprises; the Ghettoand Testaccio have a large number of places serving traditional Roman food, while the densest concentration of restaurants of all kinds can be found in Trastevere. There’s also an abundance of good, honest pizzerias, churning out thin, crispy pizza from wood-fired ovens. Be wary of restaurants adjacent to the major monuments. Note that many places are closed during August.
OUR FAVOURITES: Armando al Pantheon. Da Remo. Trattoria Mont.
Drink
Many Roman bars are traditionally daytime haunts, but there are now also plenty of after-dark bars and pubs, and the city’s old-fashioned wine bars or enoteche have also surged in popularity. The Milanese tradition of aperitivi has taken off in Rome; many places put on a free buffet at 6–7pm to attract pre-dinner drinkers; you can eat your fill for the price of a drink. Wherever you are, you can drink late – most places are open until at least 1am – but Campo de’ Fioriand the Centro Storiconear Piazza Navona, and the nightlife districts of Trastevere, Testaccio and Pigneto are the liveliest areas in the city centre.
OUR FAVOURITES: Vinaietto. Antica Enoteca. Ai Tre Scalini.
Go out
There’s a concentration of clubs in Ostiense and Testaccio, while Trastevere and the Centro Storico, from the Jewish Ghetto to the Pantheon, are good for bars, with the odd backstreet club. The San Lorenzo and Pigneto areas near Termini have plenty of laid-back, studenty hangouts, often with live music. More alternative places are run as private clubs – usually known as centri sociali, where entry will be free but you may be stung for a membership fee. In summer, Roman nightlife centres on the Tiber, with pop-up venues and food stalls along its banks.
OUR FAVOURITES: Sharivari. Rashomon. Big Mama.
< Back to Introduction
15 THINGS NOT TO MISS
Roma: nun basta ’na vita" (a lifetime isn’t enough
), as the locals will tell you, and, indeed, this is a city of numerous highlights, from outstanding art collections and historic architecture to picturesque parks and world-class pizza.
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ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Political, economic and religious hub of ancient Rome, the sprawling Forum is almost unrecognizable today, but no less evocative for that.
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VILLA BORGHESE The city centre’s largest open space has plenty to occupy you, with superb galleries, a zoo and a boating lake.
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PIAZZA NAVONA If Rome has a centre, this is probably it: a beautiful oval with Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fium at its heart.
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ST PETER’S Italy’s largest church is stuffed with masterpieces, most notably Michelangelo’s Pietà and Bernini’s baldacchino. It’s worth the climb up the dome for the incredible view.
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COLOSSEUM The most photographed of Rome’s monuments, and no wonder. In terms of size, scale and ingenuity, it’s hard to beat.
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DOMUS AUREA Take a tour of the Emperor Nero’s fascinating and cavernous Golden House, now enhanced with the use of virtual reality.
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BASILICA OF SAN CLEMENTE This fascinating basilica is the epitome of multi-layered Rome: an ancient temple beneath an ancient church topped by a medieval basilica.
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VATICAN MUSEUMS Home to the largest, richest and most dazzling collections in the world, housed in iconic spaces such as the Sistine Chapel and Raphael Rooms.
Mark-Thomas/Rough Guides
CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS The world’s oldest public museum holds two amazing galleries displaying Roman sculpture and Italian art.
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TREVI FOUNTAIN Stumbling upon the Trevi Fountain by accident, especially first thing in the morning, is one of the greatest of all Rome experiences.
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PIZZA There’s nothing quite like thin, crispy-based Roman pizza, fresh from a wood-burning oven. Da Remo is one of the most authentic places to try it.
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CAMPO DE’ FIORI The morning market here is one of Rome’s oldest, while in the evening the square is one of the centre’s liveliest places for an aperitivo.
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GALLERIA BORGHESE A fabulous array of Bernini sculptures and one of Rome’s best collections of Renaissance art, housed in the Borghese family villa.
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GELATO The traditional – and best – way to finish off a Roman evening out. Cremeria Monteforte is a locals’ favourite in the Centro Storico.
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THE PANTHEON An amazing building even in its time, but all the more awe-inspiring now, given how completely it has survived.
ITINERARIES
Day One in Rome
Day Two in Rome
Budget Rome
Secret Rome
Day One in Rome
The Colosseum
Mark Thomas/Rough Guides
Capitoline Hill
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Ara Pacis
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Capitoline Hill. Rome began here, and the two museums that flank the elegant square are must-see sights.
Roman Forum. Some of the most ruined ruins you’ll see, but also the most atmospheric.
Colosseum. The most recognizable and perhaps the greatest ancient Roman monument of them all.
Lunch. Enjoying the good, traditional Roman food at Valentino, it’s hard to believe you’re just a few minutes from the Colosseum.
Trevi Fountain. No trip to the city could be complete without a visit to this iconic Baroque fountain.
Piazza di Spagna. The Spanish Steps, Keats- Shelley House and the square itself are among the city’s most compelling attractions.
Ara Pacis. Enclosed in an impressive purposebuilt structure, the amazing frieze here depicts the imperial family during the time of Augustus
Galleria Borghese. The Bernini sculptures at this artrich gallery are the pure essence of Rome (be sure to book in advance).
Dinner. A meal in lively Trastevere is a must – and you can’t go wrong with a slap-up Sicilian dinner at La Gensola; try the tagliolini with tuna and asparagus.
Ice cream. San Crispino is a must for delicious gelato – considered by many to be the best ice cream in Rome.
Day Two in Rome
St Peter’s Basilica
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Gallery of Maps, Vatican Museums
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Jewish quarter
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St Peter’s. It would be a pity to leave Rome without seeing the city’s greatest Baroque attraction.
Vatican Museums. So much more than the Sistine Chapel – this staggering complex of museums is not to be missed
Lunch. Dal Toscano, a long-established Tuscan restaurant close by the Vatican walls, is a good place to recover from museum fatigue; fuel up on bowls of delicious pici (thick home-made spaghetti).
Piazza Navona. One of the Centro Storico’s loveliest open spaces, and close to the church of San Luigi dei Francesi and Palazzo Altemps.
Campo de’ Fiori. Wander through Campo de’ Fiori – many people’s favourite square – and explore the surrounding streets, full of shops and cafés.
The Pantheon. Rome’s most intact ancient sight, and located near one of the city’s great churches, Santa Maria sopra Minerva.
The Ghetto. Stroll through the crumbling old Jewish quarter, an ancient part of the city centre.
Dinner. Piperno is one of the Ghetto’s best restaurants, with fantastic Roman-Jewish cooking served in lovely surroundings – try to nab a seat outdoors on balmy evenings.
Ice cream. Alberto Pica is one of the longest running and best of Rome’s many gelaterie; there’s a great choice of flavours and the ice cream is sublime.
< Back to Itineraries
Budget Rome
Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo
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Spanish Steps
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View from Vittoriano
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You only have to wander around Rome to stumble across museum-worthy sculptures and art-filled churches, but time your visit right for free entry to some of the pricier sights.
Santa Maria del Popolo. Start out at one of the city’s most beautiful churches, where two works by Caravaggio can be viewed in their original setting – and for free.
Spanish Steps. All you need is the energy to climb to the top and enjoy the views.
Trevi Fountain. The only cost is the coins you choose to chuck in to this statue-dotted fountain for good fortune.
Lunch. Il Forno di Campo de’ Fiori is renowned for its pizza by the slice; opt for the legendary pizza bianca drizzled with olive oil.
Vittoriano. It’s free to clamber up the steps and take in the vistas – though you pay for the lifts to the very top.
St Peter’s. There’s no entry fee for this or any other Roman church.
Vatican Museums. Try to visit on the last Sunday of the month when this compelling museum complex is free to all – perhaps the world’s greatest sightseeing bargain.
Dinner. Head up to Mondo Arancina for some of the city’s best arancini – just €2.50 a pop and just the thing for an energy boost post-Vatican.
Ice cream. Just a short walk from the Vatican Museums, Fatamorgana serves huge portions of delicious