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Japanese Knitting Stitches from Tokyo's Kazekobo Studio: A Dictionary of 200 Stitch Patterns by Yoko Hatta

Japanese Knitting Stitches from Tokyo's Kazekobo Studio: A Dictionary of 200 Stitch Patterns by Yoko Hatta

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Japanese Knitting Stitches from Tokyo's Kazekobo Studio: A Dictionary of 200 Stitch Patterns by Yoko Hatta

5/5 (4 évaluations)
332 pages
30 minutes
Aug 20, 2019


This exciting new Japanese stitch dictionary is from popular designer Yoko Hatta—the founder and driving force behind the Kazekobo Studio. Though this is her first book in English, her work already has an extensive following in Western countries—more than 1,000 of her designs can be seen on Ravelry.com.

Hatta is one of several Japanese knitters whose patterns and designs have sparked an explosion of interest in Japanese knitting techniques and aesthetics around the world. Her work in knitwear design spans more than thirty years, and knitters love her modern-yet-timeless, fun-yet-classy styles.

This book presents her 200 favorite Kazekobo stitch patterns—a delightful selection of multipurpose knit-and-purl, lace, cable, Aran and rib & twist stitches in solids and motifs.

Sample projects give knitters a chance to practice Hatta's techniques. These include:
  • Mini mufflers using knit-and-purl stitches
  • A cozy scallop-edged scarf using lace stitches
  • A beautifully textured pair of mittens using cable and Aran stitches
  • A stylish and sturdy pair of two-tone socks using rib and twist stitches
Experienced knitters will find a wealth of unique patterns just waiting to be brought to life. A guide to the basic symbols shows how to knit the stitches, step-by-step.

Originally published in Japanese by Nihon Vogue, whose books have brought the designs of artists such as Hitomi Shida, Keiko Okamoto and others to knitters around the world, this book will be a much-anticipated addition to every knitter's library.
Aug 20, 2019

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Japanese Knitting Stitches from Tokyo's Kazekobo Studio - Yoko Hatta


Author’s preface

When I started knitting, I couldn’t follow Japanese knitting patterns. Stockinette stitch, garter stitch, moss stitch and rib knitting were all I could manage. I made all of my designs using those.

In the 1970s I saw a beautiful design in a French weekly magazine. How was it knitted? I picked up my dictionary and slowly worked it out. When I started to learn the knitting symbols used in Japanese patterns, a door suddenly opened. I was thrilled when the same patterns in the book appeared in front of my eyes.

Knitting is a kind of magic that is created from one thread, and that one thread can conjure up simple flat surfaces through to the most complex relief effects, or create delicate lace. Each time I make a new swatch I find something new, and often I get so engrossed I can’t stop knitting.

When I think of all the knitting patterns that have been created over the years—some are timeless, some go out of fashion, but excellent patterns will always be cherished.

If I can share my excitement and pleasure in knitting with you, I will be delighted.

—Yoko Hatta

Welcome to the world of Kazekobo’s favorite knitting patterns!

Understanding this book

The stitch patterns in this book were chosen by the author Yoko Hatta (known as Kazekobo or Kaze Kobo) as her favorite stitches to use in design.

Read this section before you begin:

These stitch patterns are probably presented a little differently from what you’re used to. Japanese knitting uses charts rather than written instructions for individual stitch patterns. A chart is basically a collection of symbols and row markers forming a stitch pattern. The symbols indicate the stitches to be used. All of the stitches will be defined and illustrated on pages 95-115. If you’re new to charts, it’s best to familiarize yourself with the look of charts in general, as well as with the specific chart for the pattern you’re knitting, before you pick up your needles.

In most charts you’ll see a lot of blank boxes. Check above, below or alongside of the chart for a key to what the blank indicates.

Top: Tells you that a blank box is worked as a knit stitch.

Bottom: Tells you that a blank box is worked as a purl.

This convention keeps the chart cleaner and easier to read. Your eye can focus on what you have to do, without a lot of visual noise from the background stitches. Note that the meaning of the blank may vary from chart to chart.

The most important thing to remember about working from a Japanese knitting stitch pattern is that the chart shows the right side of the work. It’s a visual representation of what your work will look like when it’s done. Each symbol describes what the stitch will look like on the right side, not what you execute. For example, to create a knit stitch on the right side, you must purl on the reverse side.

You’ll notice a gray area in each chart. This indicates a completed repeat.

This book also contains a few patterns for small projects that can be made from the stitch motifs. You’ll see that the pattern for each project includes:

A small section of text at the top with some of the key information such as gauge, and finished size.

Schematics—a drawing for each part of the garment with measurements.

Charts for the stitch patterns.

Here’s what is in the text:

•Yarn requirements: The original yarn is given first, and that’s the yarn in the pattern photograph. All the yarns in the book are manufactured by Japanese makers, and not widely available outside Japan. To help with substitution, we’ve included a table of yarns on page 116 that provides basic information: approximate weight, fiber content, and put up (yards/meters per ball)

•Needle and hook sizes: Japanese sizes are given first, followed by metric and U.S. sizes. Keep in mind that the U.S. sizes are an approximation; there isn’t a one-to-one correlation to Japanese needle sizes. Be sure to use the size that gives you gauge.

•Gauge: Gauge is normally given over 10 cm / 4 inches for the main stitch pattern.

•Finished measurements: The measurements given are the actual finished measurements of the piece. Use your best judgment in choosing the size that will give you the best fit. Measurements are given in imperial and metric units. The pieces in this book were conceived and executed using metric measurements.

•Instructions: This section

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