Frommer's Hawaii

Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head on Oahu Island

There’s no place on earth quite like this handful of sun-drenched Pacific islands. Here you’ll find palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainforests, cascading waterfalls, soaring summits (some capped with snow), a live volcano, and beaches of every hue: gold, red, black, and even green. Roadside stands offer fruits and flowers for pocket change, and award-winning chefs deliver unforgettable feasts. Each of the six main islands possesses its own unique mix of natural and cultural treasures—and the possibilities for adventure, indulgence, and relaxation are endless.

The best Beaches

bullet.eps Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too gorgeous to be real, this stretch along the Windward Coast is one of Hawaii’s postcard-perfect beaches—a mile of golden sand as soft as powdered sugar bordering translucent turquoise waters. The waters are calm year-round and excellent for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. Two tiny offshore islands complete the picture, functioning both as scenic backdrops and bird sanctuaries. See p. 103.

bullet.eps Hapuna Beach (Big Island): A half-mile of tawny sand, as wide as a football field, gently slopes down to crystalline waters that in summer are usually excellent for swimming, snorkeling, and bodysurfing; in winter, the thundering waves should be admired from the shore, where the picnicking and state camping facilities are first rate. See p. 219.

bullet.eps Waianapanapa State Park (Maui): Maui has many terrific beaches to choose from, but this one is extra special: On the dramatic Hana coast, jet-black sand is pummeled by the azure surf, sea arches and caves dot the shoreline, and a cliffside trail leads through an ancient hala forest. Plan to picnic or camp here. See p. 329.

bullet.eps Papohaku Beach Park (Molokai): The currents are too strong for swimming here, but the light-blond strand of sand, nearly 300 feet wide and stretching for some 3 miles—one of Hawaii’s longest beaches—is great for picnicking, walking, and watching sunsets, with Oahu shimmering in the distance. See p. 443.

bullet.eps Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): This large sprawl of soft golden sand is one of the prettiest in the state. Bordered by the regal Four Seasons resort on one side and lava-rock tide pools on the other, this protected marine preserve offers prime swimming, snorkeling, tide-pool exploring, picnicking, camping, and the chance to spy on resident spinner dolphins. See p. 470.

bullet.eps Poipu Beach (Kauai): This popular beach on the sunny South Shore has something for everyone: protected swimming, snorkeling, bodyboarding, surfing, and plenty of sand for basking—with a rare Hawaiian monk seal joining sunbathers every so often. See p. 529.

Hiking the Waihee Ridge Trail on Maui

The best Authentic Experiences

bullet.eps Eat Local: People in Hawaii love food. Want to get a local talking? Ask for her favorite place to get poke or saimin or shave ice. The islands offer excellent fine-dining opportunities (see the examples below), but they also have plenty of respectable hole-in-the-wall joints and beloved institutions that have hung around for half a century. On Oahu, eat poke at Ono Seafood (p. 142), enjoy true Hawaiian food at Helena’s Hawaiian Food (p. 148), and join the regulars at Liliha Bakery (p. 149) for a loco moco. On Kauai, slurp saimin and shave ice at Hamura’s Saimin Stand (p. 576).

bullet.eps Feel History Come Alive at Pearl Harbor (Oahu): On December 7, 1941, Japanese warplanes bombed Pearl Harbor, forcing the United States to enter World War II. Standing on the deck of the USS Arizona Memorial—the eternal tomb for the 1,177 sailors trapped below when the battleship sank—is a profound experience. You can also visit the USS Missouri Memorial, where the Japanese signed their surrender on September 2, 1945. See p. 77.

bullet.eps Experience Hula: Each year the city of Hilo on the Big Island hosts a prestigious competition celebrating ancient Hawaiian dance: the Merrie Monarch Festival (p. 175), held the week after Easter. On Molokai, reverent dancers celebrate the birth of hula during the 3-day Ka Hula Piko festival (p. 457) held in late spring. Year-round, local halau (hula troupes) perform free shows at several shopping centers. On Oahu, check out the Bishop Museum (p. 70), which stages excellent performances on weekdays, or head to the Halekulani’s House Without a Key (p. 165), where the sunset functions as a beautiful backdrop to equally beautiful hula. On Maui, the Old Lahaina Luau (p. 425) is the real deal, showcasing Hawaiian dance and storytelling nightly on a gracious, beachfront stage.

In Hawaii, mother nature Is Still in Charge

Two cataclysmic events in Hawaii in 2018 remind us that these islands remain very much subject to the whims of Mother Nature, although the storm clouds have had unexpected silver linings.

In April 2018, torrential rains on the island of Kauai washed out roads and hiking trails and destroyed or damaged homes and businesses, primarily on the North Shore. While most of the damage has been repaired, several popular North Shore beaches and the Kalalau Trail remain closed at press time. The closure gave the county time to plan for new parking areas with permits and shuttle service to limit the impact of visitors, which will also alleviate the stress of jockeying for the limited parking spaces. The vibrant regeneration of marine life during the long absence of snorkeling, fishing, and boating in the area has also been a plus.

Also in April 2018, a series of earthquakes and volcanic eruptions began on the Big Island in Puna, a remote area well-known for volcanic activity, although not at this scale for nearly 40 years. By the time the slow but relentless lava flow ended in August 2018, some 700 homes and surrounding farmland had been destroyed, covered by molten rock that flowed into the sea and filled Kapoho Bay as deep as 919 feet. The lava buried 14 square miles—but also added 875 new acres of land and created a beautiful black sand beach and lagoon.

In the summit area of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, which closed for 135 days during the eruption, Halemaumau Crater sank 1,500 feet and gradually expanded to four times its size as its walls collapsed from the draining of the lava below it, which also caused clouds of ash. At press time, nearly all of the closed areas of the park had reopened, with visitors able to see the spectacular transformation up close.

See chapters 5 and 9 for more specific information about closures and changes due to these natural events.

bullet.eps Ponder Petroglyphs: More than 23,000 ancient rock carvings decorate the lava fields at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (p. 205) on the Big Island. You can see hundreds more on a short hike through the Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve (p. 188), near the Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast. Go early in the morning or late afternoon when the angle of the sun lets you see the forms clearly. On Lanai, fantastic birdmen and canoes are etched into rocks at Luahiwa (p. 467), Shipwreck Beach (p. 472), and Kaunolu Village (p. 469).

bullet.eps Trek to Kalaupapa (Molokai): The only access to this hauntingly beautiful and remote place is by foot, mule, or nine-seater plane. Hikers can descend the 26 switchbacks on the sea cliff’s narrow 3-mile trail to Kalaupapa National Park (p. 437), a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. Once you’ve reached the peninsula, you’ll board a tour bus (p. 439)—your transport back to a time when islanders with Hansen’s Disease (leprosy) were exiled to Molokai and Father Damien devoted his life to care for them.

Juggling fire at a luau on Maui

The best Outdoor Adventures

bullet.eps Surfing on Oahu: Whether you’re learning to surf or a pro, Oahu has waves for everyone. Few experiences are more exhilarating than standing on your first wave, and Waikiki offers lessons, board rentals, and gentle surf. During the winter, the North Shore gets big and rough, so stay out of the water if you’re not an experienced surfer. But even the view from the beach, watching the daredevils take off on waves twice their height, is thrilling. See p. 110.

bullet.eps Witness the Whales: From December to April, humpback whales cruise Hawaiian waters. You can see these gentle giants from almost any shore; simply scan the horizon for a spout. Hear them, too, by ducking your head below the surface and listening for their otherworldly music. Boats on every island offer whale-watching cruises, but Maui is your best bet for seeing the massive marine mammals up close. Try Trilogy (p. 332) for a first-class catamaran ride or, if you’re adventurous, climb into an outrigger canoe with Hawaiian Paddle Sports (p. 335).

Waimea Canyon, Kauai

The welcoming Lei

A lei is aloha turned tangible, communicating hello, goodbye, congratulations, and I love you in a single strand of fragrant flowers. Leis are the perfect symbol for the islands: Their fragrance and beauty are enjoyed in the moment, but the aloha they embody lasts long after they’ve faded.

Traditionally, Hawaiians made leis out of flowers, shells, ferns, leaves, nuts, and even seaweed. Some were twisted, some braided, and some strung. Then, as now, they were worn to commemorate special occasions, honor a loved one, or complement a hula dancer’s costume. Leis are available at most of the islands’ airports, from florists, and even at supermarkets. You can find wonderful, inexpensive leis at the half-dozen lei shops on Maunakea Street in Honolulu’s Chinatown and at

Castillo Orchids ( telephone_black.eps  808/329-6070), 73-4310 Laui St., off Kaiminani Drive in the Kona Palisades subdivision, across from the Kona Airport on the Big Island. You can also arrange in advance to have a lei-greeter meet you as you deplane. Greeters of Hawaii (www.greetersofhawaii.com; telephone_black.eps  800/366-8559) serves the major airports on Oahu, Maui, Kauai, and the Big Island. On Molokai, you can sew your own at Molokai Plumerias (p. 434).

bullet.eps Visit Volcanoes: The entire island chain is made of volcanoes; don’t miss the opportunity to explore them. On Oahu, the whole family can hike to the top of ancient, world-famous Diamond Head Crater (p. 111). At Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (p. 205) on the Big Island, where Kilauea erupted continuously between 1983 and 2018, acres of new black rock and billowing sulfurous steam give hints of Pele’s presence even when red-hot lava isn’t visible. On Maui, Haleakala National Park (p. 307) provides a bird’s-eye view into a long-dormant volcanic crater.

bullet.eps Get Misted by Waterfalls: Waterfalls thundering down into sparkling pools are some of Hawaii’s most beautiful natural wonders. If you’re on the Big Island, head to the spectacular 442-foot Akaka Falls (p. 193), north of Hilo. On Maui, the Road to Hana offers numerous viewing opportunities. At the end of the drive you’ll find Oheo Gulch (p. 318), with some of the most dramatic and accessible waterfalls on the islands. Kauai is laced with waterfalls, especially along the North Shore and in the Wailua area, where you can drive right up to the 151-foot Opaekaa Falls (p. 506) and the 80-foot Wailua Falls (p. 506). On Molokai, the 250-foot Mooula Falls (p. 433) can be visited only via a guided hike through breathtaking Halawa Valley, but that, too, is a very special experience.

bullet.eps Peer into Waimea Canyon (Kauai): It may not share the vast dimensions of Arizona’s Grand Canyon, but Kauai’s colorful gorge—a mile wide, 3,600 feet deep, and 14 miles long—has a grandeur all its own, easily viewed from several overlooks just off Kokee Road. Hike to Waipoo Falls to experience its red parapets up close, or take one of the helicopter rides that swoop between its walls like the white-tailed tropicbird. See p. 518.

bullet.eps Explore the Napali Coast (Kauai): With the exception of the Kalalau Valley Overlook, the fluted ridges and deep, primeval valleys of the island’s northwest portion can’t be viewed by car. You must hike the 11-mile Kalalau Trail (p. 547), kayak (p. 534), take a snorkel cruise (p. 532), or book a helicopter ride (p. 520) to experience its wild, stunning beauty.

bullet.eps Four-Wheel It on Lanai (Lanai): Off-roading is a way of life on barely paved Lanai. Rugged trails lead to deserted beaches, abandoned villages, sacred sites, and valleys filled with wild game. Afraid to drive yourself? Rabaca’s Limousine Service and Island Tours (p. 464) will take you to remote areas in comfortable vehicles with friendly guides.

The best Hotels

bullet.eps Halekulani (Oahu): When price is no object, this is really the only place to stay. A place of Zen amid the buzz, this beach hotel is the finest Waikiki has to offer. Even if you don’t stay here, pop by for a sunset mai tai at House Without a Key to hear live Hawaiian music while a lovely hula dancer sways to the music. See p. 125.

bullet.eps Royal Hawaiian (Oahu): This pink oasis, hidden away among blooming gardens within the concrete jungle of Waikiki, is a stunner. It’s vibrant and exotic, from the Spanish-Moorish arches in the common areas to the pink-and-gold pineapple wallpaper in the Historic Wing’s guest rooms. See p. 127.

Four Seasons Resort Hualalai

bullet.eps Kahala Hotel & Resort (Oahu): Situated in one of Oahu’s most prestigious residential areas, the Kahala provides the peace and serenity of a neighbor-island vacation, but with the conveniences of Waikiki just a 10-minute drive away. The lush, tropical grounds include an 800-foot, crescent-shaped beach and a 26,000-square-foot lagoon (home to two bottlenose dolphins, sea turtles, and tropical fish). See p. 131.

bullet.eps Four Seasons Resort Hualalai (Big Island): The seven pools alone will put you in seventh heaven at this exclusive yet environmentally conscious oasis of understated luxury, which also offers a private, 18-hole golf course, an award-winning spa, exquisite dining, and impeccable service—with no resort fee. See p. 252.

bullet.eps Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo—A DoubleTree by Hilton (Big Island): Thanks to a $20-million renovation that blended chic, modern furnishings with a focus on hula, this long-neglected icon along scenic Banyan Drive now stands heads and shoulders above any other hotel in Hilo—and is a great value anywhere in the state. The gleaming lobby and bay-view lounge host hula videos and free shows, while images of dancers by acclaimed photographer Kim Taylor Reece grace all 388 rooms (many with dazzling views) and public spaces. See p. 262.

bullet.eps Westin Hapuna Beach Resort (Big Island): Dramatically resculpted and rebranded as a Westin in 2018, this hidden gem on the Kohala Coast already boasted huge rooms, an enormous beach, and one exceptional restaurant; now it offers a large family pool with separate adult infinity-edge pool, revitalized lobby and new dining outlets, and Westin’s luxurious beds and showers. Also consider its gorgeous but pricier sister hotel, the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (p. 257), part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection but independently owned, with a spectacular golf course and beach whose waters are visited nightly by manta rays. See p. 259.

bullet.eps Fairmont Kea Lani (Maui): This Wailea resort offers a quiet beachfront locale, massive suites and residential-sized villas, a plethora of pools, an expert spa with thoughtful wellness program, and excellent dining, from the fresh poke bowls in the marketplace to the gourmet take on plantation fare at Ko (p. 404). Sunsets are mesmerizing, especially when accompanied by an artisan cocktail in the resort’s Luana Lounge. See p. 373.

Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa

bullet.eps Travaasa Hana (Maui): Nestled in the center of quaint Hana town, this 66-acre resort wraps around Kauiki Head, the dramatic point where Queen Kaahumanu was born. You’ll feel like royalty in one of the Sea Ranch Cottages here. Floor-to-ceiling sliding doors open to spacious lanais, some with private hot tubs. You’ll be far from shopping malls and sports bars, but exotic red-, black-, and white-sand beaches are a short walk or shuttle ride away. This is luxury in its purest form. See p. 381.

bullet.eps Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay (Lanai): This gracious resort on Lanai’s south coast overlooks Hulopoe Beach—one of the finest stretches of sand in the state. Guest rooms are palatial, outfitted with museum-quality art and automated everything—from temperature, lighting, and sound system to fancy toilets! The suites have deep soaking Japanese cedar tubs, and views that stretch for an eternity. The restaurants and service throughout the resort are impeccable. See p. 479.

bullet.eps Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa (Kauai): At this sprawling, family-embracing resort in Poipu, the elaborate, multi-tiered fantasy pool and saltwater lagoon more than compensate for the rough waters of Keoneloa (Shipwrecks) Beach. Don’t fret: Calmer Poipu Beach is just a short drive away. Anara Spa and Poipu Bay Golf Course offer excellent adult diversions, too. See p. 566.

bullet.eps The Lodge at Kukuiula (Kauai): Thanks to an array of luxuriously furnished cottages, bungalows, and villas, overnight guests can enjoy all the perks of home ownership at the island’s most exclusive resort—including access to its private golf course, unrivaled spa, and fine dining—without the overhead of a multimillion-dollar second (or third) home. See p. 566.

The best Restaurants

bullet.eps Alan Wong’s Restaurant (Oahu): Master strokes at this shrine of Hawaii Regional Cuisine include ginger-crusted fresh onaga (red snapper), a whole-tomato salad dressed with li hing mui (plum powder) vinaigrette, and opihi (limpet) shooters. Alan Wong reinvents local flavors for the fine-dining table in ways that continue to surprise and delight. See p. 149.

bullet.eps Sushi Izakaya Gaku (Oahu): The city is dotted with izakayas, Japanese pubs serving small plates made for sharing, and this gem is the best of them all. You’ll discover life beyond maguro and hamachi nigiri with seasonal, uncommon seafood, such as sea bass sashimi and grilled ray. Thanks to the large population of Japanese nationals living in Honolulu, the Japanese food here is some of the best outside of Japan. But it’s not just straight-from-Tokyo fare at Gaku; the chefs here scour fish markets daily for the best local fish. See p. 150.

bullet.eps The Pig and the Lady (Oahu): This casual restaurant, with its traditional Vietnamese noodle soups and playful interpretations of Southeast Asian food, is both soulful and surprising. The soulful: the pho of the day, drawing on recipes from Chef Andrew Le’s mother. The surprising: hand-cut pasta with pork and lilikoi (passion fruit). The best of both worlds: a pho French dip banh mi, with slices of tender brisket and a cup of pho broth for dipping. See p. 146.

bullet.eps Kaana Kitchen (Maui): Treat Chef Isaac Bancaco’s grid menu in his dining room at the Andaz Maui like a gourmet bingo card; every combination is a winner. Start off with a hand-mixed cocktail and the ahi tataki: ruby-red tuna, heirloom tomato, and fresh burrata sprinkled with black salt and nasturtium petals. The $45 breakfast buffet grants you access to the kitchen’s novel chilled countertops, stocked with every delicacy and fresh juice you can imagine. See p. 404.

bullet.eps Mama’s Fish House (Maui): Overlooking Kuau Cove on Maui’s North Shore, this restaurant is a South Pacific fantasy. Every nook is decorated with some fanciful artifact of salt-kissed adventure. The menu lists the anglers who reeled in the day’s catch; you can order ono caught by Keith Nakamura along the 40-fathom ledge near Hana or deep-water ahi seared with coconut and lime. The Tahitian Pearl dessert is almost too stunning to eat. See p. 413.

bullet.eps Tin Roof and Lineage (Maui): Celebrity chef Sheldon Simeon won the hearts of Top Chef fans not once, but twice. Now he’s done the same for Maui diners. He and his wife, Janice, first opened Tin Roof (p. 388) , a humble to-go lunch spot in an industrial Kahului strip mall, with a fun, Filipino-inspired menu, including an Instagram-worthy chocolate bibingka cupcake. In 2018, they added the chic but equally whimsical Lineage (p. 405) in the Shops at Wailea, with snacks, small plates, and family-sized dishes on a dinner-only menu inspired by Sheldon’s roots in Hilo.

Mama’s Fish House, Maui

bullet.eps Merriman’s (Waimea, Big Island, and Kapalua, Maui): Chef Peter Merriman, one of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, oversees a locally inspired culinary empire that also includes Monkeypod Kitchen and Moku Kitchen outlets on Maui (p. 407) and Oahu (p. 143 and 157), as well as the Beach House on Kauai (p. 584), famed for sunset photo ops. His original Waimea restaurant, opened in 1988, still merits the drive upcountry from the coast, while the menu at his Kapalua, Maui, outpost (p. 400) almost matches the breathtaking views from the ocean point. See p. 275.

bullet.eps Umekes (Kailua-Kona and Waikoloa Beach, Big Island): The island specialty of diced raw, marinated seafood poke—pronounced po-kay—comes in many varieties at this hole-in-the-wall takeout counter in Kailua-Kona, with just as delicious, farm-fresh sides. On the other side of town, Chef Nakoa Pabre also runs a handsome sit-down version with full bar, Umekes Fishmarket Bar and Grill (p. 268), and in 2019 opened a restaurant inside the new Kuleana Rum Shack tasting room at Waikoloa Beach Resort (p. 272). See p. 268.

bullet.eps Pueo’s Osteria (Waikoloa, Big Island): Former Four Seasons Hualalai chef James Babian takes inspiration from Tuscany and, as much as he can, uses ingredients from local farmers and fishermen, creating remarkably fresh, well-priced cuisine paired with an intriguing wine list. Another reason to drive 15 minutes up the mountain: A thoughtfully crafted bar menu is served nightly. See p. 274.

bullet.eps Bar Acuda (Hanalei, Kauai): When the sun goes down, the surfing set freshens up for a night on the town at this stylish tapas bar. Created by Jim Moffat, a former star of San Francisco’s culinary scene, Bar Acuda’s fare is centered around fresh seafood and seasonal pairings inspired by Mediterranean cuisine. See p. 577.

bullet.eps Red Salt (Poipu, Kauai): Hidden inside the jewel box of boutique hotel Koa Kea is this equally brilliant dining room, where local seafood and produce shine under executive chef Noelani Planas, who trained with Joël Robuchon. The evening sushi bar and tropical breakfasts are also not to be missed. See p. 584.

bullet.eps Eating House 1849 (Poipu, Kauai): Hawaii Regional Cuisine co-founder Roy Yamaguchi closed the long-lived Garden Island outpost of his signature Roy’s brand to open this more casual, plantation-themed restaurant in the open-air Shops at Kukuiula. Returning to his island roots with hearty small plates and family-style dishes made it an instant success, now replicated at two Oahu locations. See p. 584.

bullet.eps Nobu Lanai (Lanai): Lanai now ranks among New York, Milan, Budapest, and Mexico City as somewhere one can dine at a Nobu restaurant—a measure of how fun a place is, in the immortal words of pop star Madonna. The best way to experience this epicurean phenomenon is to order the omakase—the chef’s tasting menu—for $195. Each dish is as delicious as it is artful. See p. 481.

The best of Hawaii for Kids

bullet.eps Aulani, a Disney Resort & Spa, Ko Olina, Hawaii (Oahu): Disney built this high-rise hotel and spa (with timeshare condos) on 21 acres on the beach, about an hour’s drive from Waikiki. It’s a great destination for families, with a full children’s program, plus areas and activities for teens and tweens. Mickey, Minnie, and other Disney characters walk the resort and stop to take photos with kids. See p. 133.

bullet.eps Polynesian Cultural Center (Oahu): Experience the songs, dance, and costumes of six Pacific islands and archipelagos at the Disneyland version of Polynesia. There are plenty of activities to engage kids, such as spear-throwing competitions and Maori games that test hand-eye coordination. See p. 94.

Disney Aulani Resort on Oahu

Traditional Hawaiian dance at the Polynesian Cultural Center

bullet.eps Build Sandcastles on Kailua Beach (Oahu): This gorgeous beach is kid-friendly, with sand that slopes gently into the water. The waves vary in spots—perfect for the young ones to splash around and older kids to boogie board. The broad stretch of sand is also great for building castles. See p. 103.

bullet.eps Slumber Party at the Aquarium (Maui): Kids can book a sleepover in the Maui Ocean Center, staying up into the wee hours to watch glowing jellyfish and other nocturnal animals. See p. 304.

bullet.eps Zip Over a Tropical Farm (Maui): The beginner’s zipline at Maui Tropical Plantation is perfect for pint-sized adventurers, who can also enjoy a narrated tram ride through the fields and orchards of this scenic compound at the base of the West Maui Mountains. See p. 301.

bullet.eps Snorkel in Kealakekua Bay (Big Island): Everyone can enjoy the dazzling display of marine life here on a Fair Wind cruise (www.fair-wind.com; telephone_black.eps  800/677-9461 or 808/322-2788), which offers inner tubes and underwater viewing boxes for little ones (or older ones) who don’t want to get their faces wet. Two water slides and a spacious boat with a friendly crew add to the fun. See p. 225.

bullet.eps Play at Lydgate Park (Kauai): If kids tire of snorkeling in the protected swimming area of Lydgate Beach, a giant wooden fantasy play structure and bridge to the dunes await, along with grassy fields and several miles of biking trails. See p. 505.

bullet.eps Ride a Sugarcane Train (Kauai): At Kilohana Plantation, families can enjoy an inexpensive, narrated train ride through fields, forest, and orchards, and stop to feed goats and wild pigs. See p. 504.

bullet.eps Frolic in a Playful Garden (Kauai): The Under the Rainbow children’s garden at Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens & Sculpture Park offers a hedge maze, treehouse, mini railroad, and wading pool, among other delights. See p. 509.

A red sand beach, formed by the collapsed Ka’uiki Head volcanic cinder cone on Kaihalulu Bay, Maui

For most people, the fetching dollops of land in the middle of the Pacific Ocean are a dream destination—but getting to this remote region can seem daunting. So once you finally arrive, you’ll want to make the most of your time. In this chapter we’ve built six 1-week itineraries for Oahu, Hawaii Island, Maui, Molokai, Lanai, and Kauai, each designed to hit the highlights and provide a revealing window into the real Hawaii.

You can follow these itineraries to the letter or use them to build your own personalized trip. Whatever you do, don’t max out your days. This is Hawaii, after all—save time to smell the perfume of plumeria, listen to wind rustling through a bamboo forest, and feel the caress of the Pacific.

A Week on Oahu

Oahu is so stunning that the ali’i, the kings of Hawaii, made it the capital of the island nation. Below, we presume that you’ll be staying in Honolulu, which makes a good base for the rest of the island. Plus, it has the best dining options and a cosmopolitan liveliness unavailable anywhere else in the islands. If you prefer quieter nights, though, opt for a vacation rental in Kailua or on the North Shore and factor into the following itinerary extra time for traveling.

DAY 1: arrive & hit Waikiki Beach 3_starRedListing.eps

Unwind from your plane ride with a little sun and sand. Take a dip in the ocean at the most famous beach in the world: Waikiki Beach (p. 100). Catch the sunset with a mai tai, Hawaiian music, and some of the loveliest hula you’ll ever see at House Without a Key (p. 165).

DAY 2: surf in Waikiki & visit Pearl Harbor 3_starRedListing.eps

Thanks to jet lag, you’ll be up early; take advantage with an early-morning surf session, aka dawn patrol, when the waves are smooth and glassy. Waikiki has great waves for learning, and a surf lesson (p. 110) will have you riding the waves in no time. The poke at Ono Seafood (p. 142) makes a great post-surf meal, and then you’ll want to refresh yourself with a lychee-mango-pineapple shave ice drizzled with lilikoi cream at Waiola Shave Ice (p. 141). In the afternoon, head to the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor (p. 76), site of the infamous 1941 attack. For dinner, go local and dine at Highway Inn (p. 143) for kalua pig, laulau, pipikaula, and poi.

Waikiki Beach

DAY 3: explore the North Shore 3_starRedListing.eps

Grab a fried malasada (holeless doughnut) dipped in sugar at Leonard’s Bakery (p. 141) before heading to the North Shore (see Central Oahu & the North Shore, on p. 95). Stop in the quaint town of Haleiwa for a pineapple-lilikoi-mango treat at Matsumoto Shave Ice (p. 95), and grab a picnic lunch from Beet Box Café (p. 155). Pick one of the gorgeous North Shore beaches for a day of swimming and sunbathing. Waimea Beach Park (p. 105) is a favorite, no matter the season. In winter, if the waves are pumping and conditions are right, head to Pipeline (p. 110) and watch pro surfers ride this tube-like wave over a razor-sharp reef. On your way home, stop in the quaint town of Haleiwa. Still daylight? Take the longer coastal road back into Honolulu.

DAY 4: snorkel in Hanauma Bay 2_starRedListing.eps & hike the Makapuu Lighthouse Trail 2_starRedListing.eps

Get up early and grab some freshly baked morning pastries or a local-style breakfast at Diamond Head Market & Grill (p. 152) before heading to Hanauma Bay (p. 102) for snorkeling. If you’re a strong swimmer and the water is calm (check with the lifeguard), head out past the reef and away from the crowds, where the water’s clearer and you’ll see more fish and the occasional turtle. Continue beach-hopping down the coastline—watch bodysurfing daredevils at Sandy Beach (p. 102). Hike the easy Makapuu Lighthouse (p. 113) trail, with views to Molokai and Lanai on a clear day. In winter, you may even see migrating humpback whales. Take the Pali Highway home to Honolulu—and be sure to stop at the Nuuanu Pali Lookout (p. 81). For a night out, head to Chinatown, where a slew of new restaurants have opened: Start with a cocktail in the rooftop courtyard at Tchin Tchin! (p. 146) and move on to dinner at Senia (p. 147).

Iolani Palace

DAY 5: glimpse historic Honolulu & experience Hawaiian culture

Fuel up at Koko Head Café (p. 152), an island-style brunch spot, before heading to downtown Honolulu to see the city’s historic sites, including the Iolani Palace (p. 74). Lunch at The Pig and the Lady (p. 146) for modern Vietnamese food, pick up some tropical fruit at one of the many Chinatown vendors, and browse the new boutiques started by Hawaii’s young creatives (p. 159). Spend the afternoon at the Bishop Museum (p. 70) to immerse yourself in Hawaiian culture, then head up to Puu Ualakaa State Park (p. 82) to watch the sunset over Honolulu. For dinner, get a taste of Honolulu’s spectacular Japanese cuisine at Sushi Izakaya Gaku (p. 150).

DAY 6: relax at Kailua Beach 3_starRedListing.eps

On your last full day on Oahu, travel over the Pali Highway to the windward side of the island. Dig into a stack of lilikoi (passion fruit) pancakes at Moke’s Bread and Breakfast (p. 154) and then spend the rest of the day at Kailua Beach (p. 103). It’s the perfect beach to kayak or stand-up paddle to the Mokulua Islands (or, as the locals call it, the Mokes) or simply relax. For your last dinner, dig into the Family Feast at Mahina and Sun’s (p. 139), which features a whole fried fish with only-in-Hawaii sides.

DAY 7: marvel at Shangri La 3_starRedListing.eps

Head to the Honolulu Museum of Art for your tour of Shangri La (p. 74), the private palace of tobacco heiress Doris Duke. Filled with Islamic art, the interior is stunning, but so is the location, on a cliff facing Diamond Head. Then, take one last look at Diamond Head and Waikiki . . . from the ocean, aboard the Holokai Catamaran (p. 106).

A Week on the Big Island of Hawaii

Because of the distances involved, a week is barely enough time to see the entire Big Island; it’s best to plan for 2 weeks—or even better, a return visit. Here’s how to see the highlights, changing hotels as you go.

DAY 1: arrive & amble through Kailua-Kona 3_starRedListing.eps

Since most flights arrive at lunchtime or later, check into your Kona Coast lodgings and go for a stroll through historic Kailua-Kona by Hulihee Palace (p. 180) and Mokuaikaua Church (p. 184). Wear sandals so you can dip your feet in one of the pocket coves, such as Kamakahonu Bay, within sight of Kamehameha’s historic compound, and enjoy a sunset dinner at an oceanview restaurant. Don’t unpack—you’ll be on the road early the next day.

DAY 2: a morning sail & afternoon drive 3_starRedListing.eps

The day starts with a morning snorkel tour (plus breakfast and lunch) aboard the Fair Wind II (p. 226), sailing to the historic preserve of Kealakekua Bay. After returning to Keauhou Bay, head south to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (p. 205), by way of Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (p. 186) and the Kau Coffee Mill (p. 209), for a pick-me-up, and swing by Punaluu Beach Park (p. 223) for a black-sand photo op, possibly with basking turtles. Check into lodgings in Volcano Village (p. 263) or Volcano House (p. 265), where you may dine overlooking Kilauea’s Halemaumau Crater, vastly expanded by the 2018 eruption.

Waipio Valley Lookout

Pololu Valley Lookout

DAY 3: explore an active volcano 3_starRedListing.eps

Stop at the national park’s Kilauea Visitor Center to learn about current lava flows (if any), the day’s free ranger-led walks, and which trails and attractions are open following the upheaval of thousands of small earthquakes during the 2018 eruption. Walk to the still-puffing steam vents and the yellowy, sour-smelling Sulphur Banks (p. 207) Bicycle or drive Crater Rim Road past Halemaumau Crater (p. 207) to Devastation Trail (p. 207), before heading down Chain of Craters Road, leading to a vast petroglyph field and repeated lava flows that smothered parts of the road.

DAY 4: tour Old Hawaii 3_starRedListing.eps

It’s just a 45-minute drive from Volcano to Hilo (p. 198), so after breakfast go to Imiloa: Astronomy Center of Hawaii (p. 201), opening at 9am. Then explore Banyan Drive (p. 198), Liliuokalani Gardens (p. 198), and one of Hilo’s small but intriguing museums, such as the free Mokupapapa Discovery Center (p. 200). Stroll through Nani Mau Gardens (p. 202) or the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden (p. 195) before driving along the pastoral Hamakua Coast (p. 193), stopping at breathtaking Akaka Falls (p. 193) and the similarly stunning Waipio Valley Lookout (p. 197). Dine on farm-fresh cuisine in Waimea (p. 275) before checking into a Kohala Coast hotel (p. 256).

DAY 5: explore the Historic Kohala Coast 3_starRedListing.eps

Start by visiting Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site (p. 188), the massive temple Kamehameha built to the war god, Ku; it also looks impressive on an intimate cruise with Kohala Blue (p. 227). Continue north on Hwy. 270 to Lapakahi State Historical Park (p. 189) to see the outlines of a 14th-century Hawaiian village, and have lunch in Hawi or Kapaau; the latter is home of the original King Kamehameha Statue (p. 189). The final northbound stop is the picturesque Pololu Valley Lookout (p. 189). Heading south in the late afternoon, make the short hike to the Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve (p. 188). To learn more Hawaiian lore, book one of Kohala’s evening luaus (p. 286).

DAY 6: sand, sea & stars 3_starRedListing.eps

You’ve earned a morning at the beach, and the Big Island’s prettiest beaches are on the Kohala Coast: Anaehoomalu Bay (A-Bay), Hapuna, and Kaunaoa (see Beaches, p. 213). Skip the scuba, though, because in the afternoon you’re heading up 13,796-foot Mauna Kea (p. 190), revered by astronomers and Native Hawaiians. Let an expert with four-wheel-drive, cold-weather gear, and telescopes for stargazing take you there; Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (p. 192) or Hawaii Forest & Trail (p. 192) are recommended tour guides.

DAY 7: spa, beach, or coffee time 3_starRedListing.eps

On your last full day, visit one of North Kona’s gorgeous beaches hidden behind lava fields, such as Kekaha Kai State Park (p. 214) or the tranquil cove at Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park (p. 182) in the morning. In the afternoon, relax with a spa treatment at the Fairmont Orchid’s Spa Without Walls (p. 256), or tour a Kona coffee farm (p. 183) and bring home gourmet beans as souvenirs.

A Week on Maui

You’ll need at least a week to savor Maui’s best experiences. We recommend splitting your vacation between East and West Maui, starting with hot and sunny beaches and ending in the rejuvenating rainforest. We’ve designed this itinerary assuming you’ll stay in West Maui for the first 3 days, but it works just as well if you stay in Wailea or Kihei. To minimize driving, move your headquarters to lush East Maui on day 4.

DAY 1: arrive & explore West Maui 3_starRedListing.eps

Upon arrival, fuel up at Tin Roof (p. 388) before heading to your hotel. Check in, and then go for a reviving dip at one of West Maui’s prime beaches (p. 321). Meander around the historic old town of Lahaina (p. 293). Since you were savvy enough to book reservations for the family-friendly Old Lahaina Luau (p. 425) or romantic Feast at Lele (p. 388) a month in advance, you can immerse yourself in Hawaiian culture as the sun drops into the sea.

Old Lahaina Luau

Day 2: sail to Lanai 3_starRedListing.eps

You’ll likely wake up early on your first morning here, so book an early-morning trip with Trilogy (p. 332), the best sailing/snorkeling operation in Hawaii. You’ll spend the day (breakfast and lunch included) sailing to Lanai, snorkeling, touring the island, and sailing back to Lahaina. You’ll have the afternoon free to shop or nap.

DAY 3: sunbathe in South Maui 3_starRedListing.eps

Take a drive out to Makena State Park (p. 327) and soak in the raw beauty of its sprawling beach. On the way, pay a visit to the sharks and sea turtles at the Maui Ocean Center in Maalaea (p. 304). Linger in South Maui to enjoy the sunset and feast at one of the area’s terrific restaurants (recommendations start on p. 386).

DAY 4: ascend a 10,000-foot volcano 3_starRedListing.eps

Venture up to the 10,023-foot summit of Haleakala, the island’s dormant volcano. Witnessing the sunrise here can be phenomenal (as well as mind-numbingly cold and crowded). Aim for a little later and hike in Haleakala National Park (p. 307), an awe-inspiring experience any time of day. On your way back down the mountain, stop and tour Upcountry Maui (p. 306), particularly the communities of Kula, Makawao, and Paia. Plan for a sunset dinner in Kuau at Mama’s Fish House (p. 413). Stay at a nearby B&B or the chic Paia Inn (p. 379).

DAY 5: drive the Hana Highway 3_starRedListing.eps

Pack a lunch and spend the entire day driving the scenic Hana Highway (p. 312). Pull over often to take photos, smell the flowers, and jump in the mountain-stream pools. Wave to everyone, move off the road for those speeding by, and breathe in Hawaii. Spend the night in Hana (hotel recommendations start on p. 381).

DAY 6: explore heavenly Hana 3_starRedListing.eps

Take an early-morning hike along the black sands of Waianapanapa State Park (p. 386); then explore the tiny town of Hana (p. 317). Be sure to see the Hana Museum Cultural Center, Hasegawa General Store, and Hana Coast Gallery. Stock up on snacks and drive out to the Kipahulu end of Haleakala National Park. Hike to the waterfalls and, if the water and weather are calm, swim in the pools of Oheo Gulch (p. 318). Splurge on dinner at the Hotel Travaasa Hana (p. 381).

DAY 7: relax & shop 3_starRedListing.eps

Depending on how much time you have on your final day, you can relax on the beach, get pampered in a spa, or shop for souvenirs. Spa-goers have a range of terrific spas to choose from, and fashionistas should check out the boutiques in Makawao and Paia (recommendations start on p. 420). If you have time, explore the verdant gardens and waterfalls at Iao Valley (p. 300).

Makena Cove

A Week on Molokai

Some visitors would quail at the thought of spending 7 whole days on Hawaii’s most low-key island, which at first glance seems to offer few activities and attractions. But you’ll need to plan your vacation carefully—including the season and days of the week—to be able to experience everything on this itinerary, based on a Monday arrival (weekday arrival strongly recommended). If you’re staying on the West End or East End, where the most desirable lodgings are, allow plenty of time to drive to Central Molokai attractions.

DAY 1: arrive & stock up

After you pick up your rental car (a must), stop by Kumu Farms near the airport (p. 454) for organic produce. While en route to Kaunakakai (p. 155) to finish your shopping, enjoy the views of the Molokai Plumerias orchard (p. 434), typically in bloom March to October.

DAY 2: tour Kalaupapa 3_starRedListing.eps

Whether you’re hiking, flying, or riding the mules down to Kalaupapa National Historical Park (p. 437), you will need to have made reservations in advance—up to a month or more for the Molokai Mule Ride (p. 440). But the effort and expense are worth it to explore this otherwise inaccessible, always impressive site of natural beauty and tragic history, where two Catholic saints, Father Damien and Mother Marianne Cope (p. 438), helped care for the leprosy patients exiled here. After your return topside, recharge at Coffees of Hawaii (p. 435), which grows its own.

DAY 3: savor the West End beaches 2_starRedListing.eps

Pack a picnic and beach gear—stop at Molokai Fish & Dive (p. 456) or Beach Break (p. 457) to buy or rent gear—and spend a day exploring glorious West End beaches (p. 443). If it’s winter, don’t plan on going in the water; instead, enjoy the sightings of whales (at their peak Jan–Mar) or intrepid surfers. Drive to the quiet plantation town of Maunaloa to restock your refreshments at the Maunaloa General Store (p. 454) or browse the eclectic Big Wind Kite Factory & Plantation Gallery (p. 457). Note that the only public restroom facilities are at the northern end of nearly 3-mile-long Papohaku Beach Park, where you’ll want to stay for sunset.

DAY 4: hike to a waterfall & into the past 3_starRedListing.eps

Anyone can take the incredibly scenic, sinuous, shore-hugging drive to pretty Halawa Beach Park (p. 443), but you’ll need reservations (book several weeks in advance) and a picnic lunch for the Halawa Valley cultural tours (p. 440) offered by the Solatorio family. After the traditional Hawaiian protocol to welcome visitors and an introduction to the ancient enclave’s history, you’ll hike to the gorgeous, 250-foot Mooula Falls, where a dip is possible in calm conditions. Since you have your swim gear, stop at the East End’s Sandy and Kumimi beaches (p. 442 and 443) on the drive home. You’ll also want to make a photo stop at Father Damien’s picturesque churches on the eastern half of King Kamehameha V Highway—St. Joseph and Our Lady of Seven Sorrows (p. 438).

DAY 5: paddle, snorkel, or watch whales on the South Shore 3_starRedListing.eps

If you haven’t explored the teeming marine life and tranquil waters sheltered by the South Shore’s enormous fringing reef, then you haven’t really seen Molokai at its finest. Depending on your ability, book a stand-up paddle or kayak excursion with Molokai Outdoors (p. 445), or a snorkel/dive trip with Molokai Fish & Dive (p. 444). The reef typically keeps the water calm even in winter (Dec–Mar), when several outfitters also offer whale-watching excursions (p. 441). Unlike on Maui, your boat may be the only one visible for miles around. Head to Coffees of Hawaii (p. 435) for the twice-weekly kanikapila (jam session) on the wide lanai Tuesday and Friday (10am–noon). Island kupuna (elders) play old-school Hawaiian music and pop classics—it’s not to be missed.

DAY 6: explore nature reserves 3_starRedListing.eps or a scenic park & unique shops 2_starRedListing.eps

The best (and only recommended) way to explore the windswept dunes of Moomomi Preserve and the miniature trees in the cloud forest atop the Kamakou Preserve is via one of the Nature Conservancy’s guided hikes (p. 447), offered once a month March through October—book as far in advance as possible. If hikes aren’t available or practical, drive to Palaau State Park (p. 439) to check out the Kalaupapa Overlook and Phallic Rock, and stop by the Molokai Museum and Cultural Center (p. 435) and Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm (p. 435). Or simply browse the Saturday morning farmer’s market (p. 454) and quaint stores in Kaunakakai (p. 455).

DAY 7: enjoy the peacefulness

If this is Sunday, then there’s little to do on Molokai—besides going to one of the many churches—and that’s the way local folks like it. Now’s a good day to revisit a favorite beach or drive up to rustic Ironwood Hills Golf Course (p. 446).

A Week on Lanai

The smallest of all the Hawaiian Islands, this former pineapple plantation is now home to a posh resort, a rich and colorful history, and a postage-stamp-size town with some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet. There are enough activities here to keep you busy, but you’ll probably be happiest skipping a few and slowing down to Lanai speed.

DAY 1: arrive & investigate Hulopoe Bay’s tide pools 3_starRedListing.eps

After settling into your hotel, head for the best stretch of sand on the island (and maybe the state): Hulopoe Beach (p. 470). It’s generally safe for swimming, and snorkeling within this marine preserve is terrific. The fish are so friendly you practically have to shoo them away; dolphins are frequent visitors. Climb up to the Puu Pehe or Sweetheart Rock lookout (p. 478). Dine like a celebrity at Nobu (p. 481).

DAY 2: explore Lanai City & Garden of the Gods 3_starRedListing.eps

Head into quaint Lanai City to browse the boutiques (p. 483) and get a colorful history lesson at the Lanai Culture & Heritage Center (p. 466). Buckle up for a 3½-hour tour with Rabaca’s Limousine Service. Let your driver navigate the rough road down to Polihua Beach (p. 471), Lanai’s largest white-sand beach. On the way back, linger at the Garden of the Gods (p. 466) to snap photos of the otherworldly landscape at sunset. Finish your day at the Lanai City Bar & Grille, listening to live music and dining by the fire pits out back (p. 482).

DAY 3: enjoy a day on the water 3_starRedListing.eps

Spend the day with Lanai Ocean Sports (p. 473) on a snorkel, sail, or scuba adventure along the island’s west coast or at Cathedrals, one of Hawaii’s most ethereal dive sites. At night, savor hand-mixed cocktails and shoot some pool at the Four Seasons Lanai Sports Bar & Grill (p. 485).

DAY 4: four-wheel it to the East Side 3_starRedListing.eps

Lanai is a fantastic place to go four-wheeling. If it hasn’t been raining, splurge on an ATV or four-wheel-drive vehicle and head out to the East Side. Get a picnic lunch from Lanai City Service (p. 483) and download the Lanai Guide app for GPS-enabled directions, historic photos, and haunting Hawaiian chants. Find the petroglyphs at Shipwreck Beach (p. 472) and forge onward to Keomoku Village and Lopa Beach (p. 471).

DAY 5: brunch like royalty & frolic with felines 3_starRedListing.eps

Fill your belly at One Forty (p. 482), where the lavish breakfast buffet’s omelet station, juice bar, and malasada (Portuguese doughnut) fryer should fuel you for hours. Then drive past the airport (or take a $10 cab ride) to the endearing Lanai Cat Sanctuary (p. 468) an open-air compound with a small cafe that welcomes visitors to pet and play with some of their hundreds of friendly felines, brought here to protect the island’s endangered birds. Return your ATV or car in town and catch a movie at Hale Keaka (p. 485).

DAY 6: choose your adventure & hit the spa 3_starRedListing.eps

Visit the Adventure Center to book your preferred activity: a horseback ride through Lanai’s upland forests (p. 475), a rambling UTV tour passing several cultural sites, or a round of golf at the award-winning Challenge at Manele golf course (p. 476). Cap your adventure with a soothing treatment at the Hawanawana Spa (p. 479) at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai.

DAY 7: spend a day at the beach 2_starRedListing.eps

Soak up the sun at Hulopoe Beach (p. 470). Grab a book and watch the kids play in the surf. If you feel inclined, follow the Kapihaa Trail (p. 477) along the rocky coast. For lunch, wander up to Malibu Farm (p. 482) and scan the horizon for dolphins or whales.

A Week on Kauai

Because much of the Garden Island, including the Napali Coast, is inaccessible to cars, a week will just suffice to view its beauty. To save driving time, split your stay between the North and South shores (detailed below) or stay on the East Side.

DAY 1: arrival, lunch & a scenic drive 3_starRedListing.eps

From the airport, stop by Hamura’s Saimin Stand (p. 576) or another Lihue lunch counter (see Plate Lunch, Bento & Poke, p. 478) for a classic taste of Kauai before driving through the bustling Coconut Coast on your way to the serenity of the rural North Shore (p. 525). Soak in the views at the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge & Lighthouse (p. 493), and then poke around Kilauea’s Kong Lung Historic Market Center (p. 592).

DAY 2: hike & snorkel the North Shore 3_starRedListing.eps

Thanks to the time difference between Hawaii and the mainland, you’ll likely wake up early. If the road and all the attractions north of Hanalei have reopened as expected, after April 2018’s historic deluge, you’ll want to get a head start driving across the nine one-lane bridges on the way to popular Kee Beach (p. 527). If conditions permit, hike at least a half-hour out on the challenging Kalalau Trail (p. 547) for glimpses of the stunning Napali Coast, or tackle the first 2 miles to Hanakapiai Beach, 3 to 4 hours round-trip. After (or instead of) hiking, snorkel at Kee and equally gorgeous Makua (Tunnels) Beach (p. 528), accessed from Haena Beach Park (p. 528). Eat lunch in Haena and then spend time in the jewel-box setting of Limahuli Garden and Preserve (p. 509). Return to Hanalei to explore shops and galleries; after dinner, enjoy live Hawaiian music at the venerable Tahiti Nui (p. 596).

DAY 3: adventures in Hanalei 3_starRedListing.eps

The day begins on Hanalei Bay, kayaking, surfing, or snorkeling (see Watersports, p. 531) or just frolicking at one of the three different beach parks (p. 494). If the waves are too rough, head instead to lagoonlike Anini Beach (p. 525). Later, try ziplining (p. 552) or horseback riding (p. 550) amid waterfalls and green mountains; those who book in advance can tour delightful Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens (p. 509). Savor views of Hanalei Bay and Bali Hai over cocktails at the Princeville Resort (p. 564) before dinner at the hotel or Bar Acuda (p. 577).

Hanalei Bay

DAY 4: nature & culture en route to Poipu 2_starRedListing.eps

After breakfast, head south. Visit Kilauea’s Anaina Hou Community Park (p. 506) for Kauai-themed mini-golf in a botanical garden or a hike along the scenic Wai Koa loop trail. Stop for a bite at a funky cafe or gourmet burger joint in Kapaa; then drive to Opaekaa Falls and see the cultural sites of Wailua River State Park (p. 505). After crossing through busy Lihue, admire the scenery on the way to Old Koloa Town (p. 593), where you can browse the quaint shops before checking into your Poipu lodgings. Pick a dinner spot from the many excellent choices in the Shops at Kukuiula (p. 594).

DAY 5: Napali by boat or helicopter 3_starRedListing.eps

Splurge on a snorkel boat or Zodiac raft tour (p. 532) to the Napali Coast, or take a helicopter tour (p. 520) for amazing views of Napali, Waimea Canyon, waterfalls, and more. After your boat returns to Port Allen, hoist a draft beer at Kauai Island Brewery & Grill (p. 589). For helicopter tours, most of which depart from Lihue, book a late-morning tour (after rush hour). Then have lunch in Lihue at Kauai Beer Company (p. 573) and drive to Wailua Falls (p. 490) before perusing the shops, tasting rum, or riding the train at Kilohana Plantation (p. 504).

Helicopter view of Napali

DAY 6: Waimea Canyon & Kokee State Park 3_starRedListing.eps

Start your drive early to the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, Waimea Canyon (p. 518). Stay on the road through forested Kokee State Park (p. 515) to the Kalalau Valley Overlook (p. 517), and wait for mists to part for a magnificent view. Stop by the Kokee Museum (p. 549) to obtain trail information for a hike after lunch at Kokee Lodge (p. 588). Or head back down to hit the waves at Salt Pond Beach or stroll through rustic Hanapepe (p. 497), home to a Friday night festival and art walk (p. 597).

DAY 7: beach & spa time in Poipu 3_starRedListing.eps

Spend the morning at glorious Poipu Beach (p. 529) before the crowds arrive, and then head over to Keoneloa (Shipwrecks) Beach (p. 529) to hike along the coastal Mahaulepu Heritage Trail (p. 549). Later, indulge in a spa treatment at Anara Spa at the Grand Hyatt Kauai (p. 566) or take a tour (booked in advance) at the National Tropical Botanical Garden (p. 514). Check out the flume of Spouting Horn (p. 515) before sunset cocktails at RumFire Poipu Beach in the Sheraton Kauai (p. 568) and dinner at The Beach House (p. 584).

Surfing in Hawaii

Since the Polynesians navigated their way across the Pacific to the Hawaiian Islands a millennium ago, this chain of floating emeralds has bedazzled travelers from around the globe.

The Hawaiian Islands bask in the warm waters of the Pacific, where they are blessed by a tropical sun and cooled by gentle trade winds—creating what might be the most ideal climate imaginable. Mother Nature has carved out verdant valleys, hung brilliant rainbows in the sky, and trimmed the islands with sandy beaches in a spectrum of colors. The indigenous Hawaiian culture embodies aloha spirit, an easygoing generosity that takes the shape of flower leis freely given, monumental feasts shared with friends and family, and hypnotic melodies played late into the balmy night. The polyglot cultures that arrived in Hawaii during the plantation era have adopted this spirit as theirs, too, and adapted the feasts to include a panoply of ethnic cuisines found nowhere else.

Visitors are drawn to Hawaii not only for its incredible beauty, but also for its opportunities for adventure. Go on, gaze into that immense volcanic crater, swim in a sea of rainbow-colored fish, tee off on a championship golf course, hike through a rainforest to hidden waterfalls, and kayak into the deep end of the ocean, where whales leap out of the water for reasons still mysterious. Looking for rest and relaxation? You’ll discover that life moves at an unhurried pace here. Extra doses of sun and sea allow both body and mind to recharge.

Hawaii is a sensory experience that will remain with you long after your lei loses its scent. Years later, a sweet fragrance, the sun’s warmth on your face, or the sound of the ocean breeze will deliver you back to the time you spent in the Hawaiian Islands.

The First Hawaiians

Throughout the Middle Ages, while Western sailors clung to the edges of continents for fear of falling off the earth’s edge, Polynesian voyagers crisscrossed the planet’s largest ocean. The first people to colonize Hawaii were unsurpassed navigators. Using the stars, birds, currents, and wind as guides, they sailed double-hulled canoes across thousands of miles, zeroing in on tiny islands in the center of the Pacific. They packed their vessels with food, plants, medicine, tools, and animals: everything necessary for building a new life on a distant shore. Over a span of an estimated 800 years, the great Polynesian migration connected a vast triangle of islands stretching from Aotearoa (New Zealand) to Hawaii to Easter Island and encompassing the many diverse archipelagos in between. Historians surmise that Hawaii’s first wave of settlers came via the Marquesas Islands as early as

a.d

. 500, though archaeological records better document the second human wave of settlers from the Society Island, beginning around

a.d.

1000.

Over the centuries, a distinctly Hawaiian culture arose. The voyagers became farmers and fishermen, as skilled on land as they had been at sea; they built highly productive fish ponds, aqueducts to irrigate terraced kalo lo’i (taro patches), and 3-acre heiau (temples) with 50-foot-high rock walls. Farmers cultivated more than 400 varieties of kalo, or taro, their staple food; 300 types of sweet potato; and 40 different bananas. Each variety served a different need—some were drought resistant, others medicinal, and others good for babies. Hawaiian women pounded the bark of mulberry trees to fine layers, then inked it with bamboo stamps to create intricately patterned kapa cloth—some of the finest in all of Polynesia. Each of the Hawaiian Islands was its own kingdom, governed by ali’i (high-ranking chiefs) who drew their authority from an established caste system and kapu (taboos). Those who broke the kapu could be sacrificed.

The ancient Hawaiian creation chant, the Kumulipo, depicts a universe that began when heat and light emerged out of darkness, followed by the first life form: a coral polyp. The 2,000-line epic poem is a grand genealogy, describing how all species are interrelated, from gently waving seaweeds to mighty human warriors. It is the basis for the Hawaiian concept of kuleana, a word that simultaneously refers to privilege and responsibility. To this day, Native Hawaiians view the care of their natural resources as a familial duty and honor.

Western Contact

Cook’s Ill-Fated Voyage

In the dawn hours of January 18, 1778, Captain James Cook of the HMS Resolution spotted an unfamiliar set of islands, which he later named for his benefactor, the Earl of Sandwich. The 50-year-old sea captain was already famous in Britain for discovering much of the South Pacific. Now on his third great voyage of exploration, Cook had set sail from Tahiti northward across uncharted waters. He was searching for the mythical Northwest Passage that was said to link the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. On his way, he stumbled upon Hawaii (aka the Sandwich Isles) quite by chance.

With the arrival of the Resolution, Stone Age Hawaii entered the age of iron. Sailors swapped nails and munitions for fresh water, pigs, and the affections of Hawaiian women. Tragically, the foreigners brought with them a terrible cargo: syphilis, measles, and other diseases that decimated the Hawaiian people. Captain Cook estimated the native population at 400,000 in 1778. (Later historians claim it could have been as high as 900,000.) By the time Christian missionaries arrived 42 years later, the number of Native Hawaiians had plummeted to just 150,000.

King Kamehameha statue

In a skirmish over a stolen boat, Cook was killed by a blow to the head. His British countrymen sailed home, leaving Hawaii forever altered. The islands were now on the sea charts, and traders on the fur route between Canada and China stopped