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    The Rough Guide to Sweden (Travel Guide eBook)
    The Rough Guide to Sweden (Travel Guide eBook)
    The Rough Guide to Sweden (Travel Guide eBook)
    Ebook881 pages9 hours

    The Rough Guide to Sweden (Travel Guide eBook)

    By Rough Guides

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    About this ebook

    The Rough Guide to Sweden

    Make the most of your time on Earth with the ultimate travel guides.
    World-renowned 'tell it like it is' travel guide.

    Discover Sweden with this comprehensive and entertaining travel guide, packed with practical information and honest recommendations by our independent experts. Whether you plan to swim in one of Sweden's 100,000 lakes, explore the cobbled lanes and medieval church ruins of Visby or relax in a traditional Swedish sauna, the Rough Guide to Sweden will help you discover the best places to explore, eat, drink, shop and sleep along the way.

    Features of this travel guide to Sweden:
    - Detailed regional coverage: provides practical information for every kind of trip, from off-the-beaten-track adventures to chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas
    - Honest and independent reviews: written with Rough Guides' trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, our writers will help you make the most from your trip to Sweden
    - Meticulous mapping: practical full-colour maps, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys. Find your way around Uppsala, Karlstad and many more locations without needing to get online
    - Fabulous full-colour photography: features inspirational colour photography, including the enchanting Bohuslän coast with smooth rocky outcrops perfect for sunbathing and the medieval magnificence of Kalmar Slott
    - Time-saving itineraries: carefully planned routes will help inspire and inform your on-the-road experiences
    - Things not to miss: Rough Guides' rundown of Lund Domkyrkan, Birka, Gotland beaches and Inlandsbanan's best sights and top experiences
    - Travel tips and info: packed with essential pre-departure information including getting around, accommodation, food and drink, health, the media, festivals, sports and outdoor activities, culture and etiquette, shopping and more
    - Background information: comprehensive 'Contexts' chapter provides fascinating insights into Sweden, with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary
    - Covers: Stockholm; day-trips from Stockholm; Gothenburg; the southwest; the southeast; the Bothnian coast; central Sweden; Swedish Lapland

    You may also be interested in: The Rough Guide to Norway, The Rough Guide to Denmark, Pocket Rough Guide to Copenhagen

    About Rough Guides: Rough Guides have been inspiring travellers for over 35 years, with over 30 million copies sold globally. Synonymous with practical travel tips, quality writing and a trustworthy 'tell it like it is' ethos, the Rough Guides list includes more than 260 travel guides to 120+ destinations, gift-books and phrasebooks.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherInsight Guides
    Release dateFeb 1, 2020
    ISBN9781789196580
    The Rough Guide to Sweden (Travel Guide eBook)
    Author

    Rough Guides

    Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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      Book preview

      The Rough Guide to Sweden (Travel Guide eBook) - Rough Guides

      Robert Harding

      Contents

      INTRODUCTION

      Where to go

      When to go

      Author picks

      Things not to miss

      Tailor-made trips

      BASICS

      Getting there

      Getting around

      Accommodation

      Food and drink

      The media

      Festivals

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Culture and etiquette

      Travel essentials

      THE GUIDE

      1Stockholm

      2Day-trips from Stockholm

      3Gothenburg

      4Around Gothenburg

      5The southwest

      6The southeast

      7The Bothnian coast

      8Central Sweden

      9Swedish Lapland

      CONTEXTS

      History

      Swedish architecture

      Geography

      Books

      Swedish language

      Glossary

      SMALL PRINT

      iStock

      Introduction to

      Sweden

      The mere mention of Sweden conjures up resonant images: snow-capped peaks, reindeer wandering in deep green forests and the 24-hour daylight of the midnight sun. But beyond the household names of ABBA, IKEA and Volvo, Sweden is relatively unknown. The largest of the Scandinavian countries, with an area twice that of Britain (and roughly that of California), but a population of just over ten million, Sweden has space for everyone: the countryside boasts pine, spruce and birch forest as far as the eye can see and crystal-clear lakes perfect for a summer afternoon dip – not to mention possibly the purest air you’ll ever breathe. The country’s south and west coasts, meanwhile, feature some of the most exquisite beaches in Europe – without the crowds.

      In general Sweden is a carefree place where life is relaxed. Indeed, the Swedes’ liberal and open attitude to virtually every aspect of life is certainly one of their most enviable qualities; people are generally left to do their own thing, providing it doesn’t impinge on the rights and freedoms of others. In Sweden, rights go hand in hand with duties, and there’s a strong sense of civic obligation (count how few times you see people dropping litter, for example), which in turn makes for a well-rounded and stable society. Many of the cornerstones of the Swedish welfare state, such as tremendously generous benefits and health-care perks, which Swedes still hold dear today, were laid down during forty years of unbroken rule by the Social Democrats.

      Yet, over the years, foreigners have somehow confused the open Swedish attitude to society, including nudity and sexuality, with sex. Contrary to popular belief, Sweden isn’t populated solely with people waiting for any opportunity to tear off their clothes and make passionate love under the midnight sun. It is, though, a country founded on honesty and straight talking – two of Sweden’s most refreshing qualities.

      Where to go

      Sweden is principally a land of forests and lakes. Its towns and cities are small by European standards and are mostly located in the southern third of the country, where the majority of Swedes live. Of its cities, serenely beautiful Stockholm is supreme. Sitting elegantly on fourteen different islands, where the waters of Lake Mälaren meet the Baltic Sea, the city boasts some fantastic architecture, fine museums and by far the best culture and nightlife in the country. The 24,000 islands which comprise the Stockholm archipelago are a perfect antidote to the urban bustle, offering endless opportunities to explore unspoilt island villages and to go swimming. On the west coast, Gothenburg, the country’s second biggest city, is also one of Sweden’s most appealing destinations. Gothenburgers have a reputation for being among the friendliest people in Sweden, and the city’s network of canals and spacious avenues is reminiscent of Amsterdam, whose architects designed it.

      Fact file

      Sweden is the third largest country in western Europe – behind only France and Spain – stretching 1600km from north to south. If the country were pivoted around on its southernmost point, the top of the country would reach as far south as Naples in Italy.

      There is no translation for the Swedish word lagom, one of the most commonly used terms in the language. Roughly speaking, it means just the right amount, not too much but not too little, a concept that is the very essence of Swedishness.

      More than half of Sweden’s land surface is covered with forest – mostly coniferous – punctuated by an astonishing 100,000 lakes.

      Sweden is home to the world’s first and largest hotel made entirely of ice and snow. Icehotel is built in December using blocks of ice cut from the local Torne River. The hotel melts back into the river in May.

      In northern Sweden frozen lakes and rivers are used by drivers looking for a shortcut to their destination. The national road agency marks out "ice roads" and decides when the ice is thick enough to support a vehicle.

      iStock

      GOTHENBURG’S COLOURFUL ROOFS

      The south is the most cosmopolitan part of the country, owing to the proximity of Denmark and the rest of the European continent. Here you’ll find the glorious ancient university seat of Lund and, nearby, Sweden’s third biggest city, Malmö, which heaves with youthful nightlife around its medieval core.

      Inland, southern Sweden boasts some handsome lakes, the two largest of which, Vänern and Vättern, provide splendid backdrops to some beautiful towns, not least the evocative former royal seat and the monastic centre of Vadstena, and Karlstad, the sunshine capital of Värmland, a rugged province ideal for river-rafting trips. To the east of the mainland lies Gotland, justifiably raved about as a haven for summer revelry, especially within the medieval walls of its unspoilt Hanseatic city, Visby.

      Central and northern Sweden represent the most quintessentially Swedish-looking part of the country. In the centre lies Dalarna, an area of rolling hills and villages that’s home to Lake Siljan, one of Sweden’s most beautiful lakes. North of here lies some of the country’s most enchanting scenery, home to bears, wolves and reindeer. To the east, the shoreline of the Bothnian coast contains the north’s biggest cities: Sundsvall, Umeå and Luleå are all enjoyable, lively places in which to break your journey north.

      Midsummer mayhem

      An atmosphere akin to Mediterranean joie de vivre takes over Sweden during the midsummer solstice (the weekend closest to June 24), when maypoles are erected as giant fertility symbols in gardens and parks across the country. Midsummer is not a time for staying in towns – everyone heads to the countryside and coasts, with Dalarna, the island of Öland and the shores of the Bohuslän coast being just a few of the most popular spots. Aided in no small part by copious quantities of alcohol, the population’s national characteristics of reserve and restraint dissolve over midsummer weekend. Long trestle tables draped in white cloths and sagging under the weight of multiple varieties of herring, potatoes with dill and gallons of akvavit are set up outside, and parties go on through the light night with dancing to the strains of accordions and fiddles.

      iStock

      iStock

      Northern lights

      Also known by their Latin name, aurora borealis, the northern lights are visible all across northern Sweden during the dark months of winter. These spectacular displays of green-blue shimmering arcs and waves of light are caused by solar wind, or streams of particles charged by the sun, hitting the atmosphere. The colours are the characteristic hues of different elements when they hit the plasma shield that protects the Earth: blue is nitrogen and yellow-green is oxygen. Although the mechanisms which produce the aurora are not completely understood, the displays are generally more impressive the closer you get to the poles – low temperatures are also rumoured to produce some of the most dramatic performances. Gällivare and Kiruna, both well inside the Arctic Circle, are arguably the best places in Sweden to catch a glimpse of the aurora, particularly during the coldest winter months from December to February. Although displays can range from just a few minutes to several hours, the night sky must be clear of cloud to see the northern lights from Earth.

      The far north, inside the Arctic Circle, is the home of the Sámi – Sweden’s indigenous people. Known as Swedish Lapland, it is also the land of reindeer, elk and bears, of swiftly flowing rivers and coniferous forest, all traversed by endless hiking routes. Sweden’s northernmost town, Kiruna, makes an excellent base for exploring the region’s national parks and the world-famous Icehotel in nearby Jukkasjärvi. Swedish Lapland is also the place to come to experience the midnight sun: in high summer the sun never sets, whilst in midwinter the opposite is true, though you may be lucky enough to see the sky lit up by the multicoloured patterns of the northern lights, or aurora borealis.

      Alamy

      SAUNA LIFE

      The Winter swede and the Summer swede

      Unsurprisingly, the long, dark winters have a tangible effect on the Swedish psyche. During the winter months, you’ll find that people are generally quieter and more withdrawn, and protect themselves from the rigours of the cold and dark by deliberately socializing indoors, often choosing to light candles throughout the home to create a sense of cosiness. You’ll even see candles burning in public buildings and shops to brighten up the gloomiest time of year. It’s during winter that Seasonal Affective Disorder, or S.A.D., causes widespread depression, affecting roughly one in five people. Although you’re unlikely to suffer during a short visit in winter, you’re likely to encounter gloomy faces and a general sense of inertia throughout the winter months. S.A.D. is caused by a lack of daylight which leads to an increase in the production of the sleep-related hormone, melatonin, secreted from a gland in the brain. Naturally people do all they can to alleviate the effects of winter; for example, during the period of 24-hour darkness in northern Sweden, the Winter Swede creates a semblance of day and night by switching on bright lights during what would be daytime, and using low-lighting during the evening hours. Once spring arrives, there’s a notable bounce in people’s step, and the Summer Swede prepares to emerge from months of enforced hibernation – you’ll see people sitting in lines on park benches in the sunshine, faces tilted to the sky, making the most of the return of the sun. Festivals and revelries are thick on the ground in spring and summer, and outdoor life is lived to the full, including picnics under the midnight sun, beach parties lasting late into the night and an exodus to the countryside as people take up residence in their forest or lakeside log cabins to enjoy the brief yet intense summer months.

      Alamy

      < Back to Intro

      When to go

      In general, May to September is the best time to visit Sweden – north or south. Summer weather in Sweden is similar to that in southern Britain, though there are more hours of sunshine and less rain. By the end of August, the leaves in northern Sweden start to change colour and night frosts are not uncommon; the first snow falls in September. In Stockholm, snow can fall in October but doesn’t generally settle; by November, though, the ground is usually covered in a blanket of snow, which will last until the following March or even April, when there can still be snow showers. Winters in the south of Sweden are often mild while in the north you’re likely to encounter snow until well into May and temperatures can fall to –30C. For more information and a temperature chart.

      < Back to Intro

      Author picks

      beaches of Skåne to the mountains of Swedish Lapland – to bring you some unique travel experiences. These are some of their own, personal favourites.

      Classic journeys Walking part of the Kungsleden trail is a great way to see the wilds of Swedish Lapland, while for the less adventurous the views unfolding from the train window on the Inlandsbanan are equally compelling.

      Best beaches Sjaustrehammaren beach on the east coast of Gotland is the perfect place for an overall tan, though the turquoise waters of Sandhammaren beach in Skåne are equally sublime.

      Back to nature Be it hiking, river-rafting or wild lake swimming, the unspoilt countryside of the province of Värmland is readily accessible and yours to call your own.

      Winter wonderland It’s hard to beat the sheer range of activities on offer at Icehotel in Jukkasjärvi for a chance to explore the snowy north of Sweden.

      Island idylls Both the Stockholm and Gothenburg archipelagos are perfect for spending long, lazy summer days messing about in boats and swimming.

      Amazing views Mountain scenery to blow your mind from the top of Åreskutan at Åre and Nuolja in Abisko or coastal vistas from the top of Högbonden.

      Favourite place For its combination of handsome towns and villages, gloriously sandy beaches and rolling countryside studded with medieval churches, Gotland is Sweden at its most alluring.

      symbol.

      Conny Fridh/Imagebank.sweden.se:

      STEAMER IN THE STOCKHOLM ARCHIPELAGO

      Alamy

      ABISKO CANYON LANDSCAPE

      < Back to Intro

      25

      things not to miss

      It’s not possible to see everything Sweden has to offer in one trip, and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste of the country’s highlights, from snowmobiling to sampling a smörgåsbord; you can browse through to find the very best things to see and experience. All highlights have a page reference to take you straight to the Guide, where you can find out more.

      Getty Images

      1 DOG SLEDDING

      Dog sledding is a magical way to see northern Sweden in winter.

      iStock

      2 River-rafting, Värmland

      Build your own raft and glide down the graceful Klarälven River, taking in some of Sweden’s scenery.

      iStock

      3 Lund domkyrkan

      This twelfth-century cathedral is the finest Romanesque building in northern Europe.

      iStock

      4 Swimming in a lake

      Amongst Sweden’s 100,000 lakes, you’re bound to find one you can call your own.

      Tomas Utsi/Imagebank.sweden.se

      5 Midnight sun

      From late May to mid-July the sun never sets in northern Sweden.

      iStock

      6 Gotland beaches

      Stretches of white sandy beaches and clear, warm waters are perfect places to relax and play in the summer sun.

      Alamy

      7 Birka

      Get to grips with Sweden’s stirring Viking past on this Stockholm island.

      Per Erik Berglund/Imagebank.sweden.se

      8 smörgåsbord

      Eat until you drop: the smörgåsbord is a perfect way to sample Sweden’s excellent cuisine.

      Alamy

      9 Sámi culture, Lapland

      Sights such as Jokkmokk market and Fatmomakke village in Lapland are monuments to the thriving culture of Sweden’s indigenous population.

      Alamy

      10 Gothenburg’s Konstmuseum

      Poseidon stands guard outside Gothenburg’s art museum – home to some of Sweden’s finest paintings from the turn of the last century.

      Alamy

      11 Icehotel

      One of the most unusual structures in Europe, the Icehotel is a masterpiece of snow and ice sculpture.

      iStock

      12 Gammelstad, Luleå

      Proudly listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Gammelstad is Sweden’s largest church town.

      iStock

      13 Visby

      Explore the cobbled lanes and medieval church ruins of this Hanseatic walled city.

      iStock

      14 Gamla Stan, Stockholm

      Enjoy a fika (coffee and cake) in one of the open-air cafés in Stockholm’s atmospheric Old Town.

      iStock

      15 Stockholm archipelago

      No visit to Stockholm is complete without a trip to one of the 24,000 islands that make up the archipelago.

      Alamy

      16 Inlandsbanan

      A trip on the Inlandsbanan through northern Sweden is one of Europe’s great train journeys.

      Ola Ericson/Imagebank.sweden.se

      17 Vasa WARship, Stockholm

      After lying in mud for centuries at the bottom of Stockholm harbour, the mighty Vasa has been restored to her former glory.

      Alamy

      18 Crossing the Arctic Circle

      Don’t leave Sweden without crossing the magical Arctic Circle, 66° 33’ north.

      Miriam Preis/Imagebank.sweden.se

      19 Herring

      The quintessential Swedish dish, best enjoyed with a cold beer or a shot of akvavit.

      Andreas Nordström/Imagebank.sweden.se

      20 Bohuslän coast

      Sweden’s most enchanting stretch of coastline with smooth rocky outcrops perfect for sunbathing.

      Alamy

      21 Kalmar Slott

      Take a tour around one of Sweden’s finest castles, and marvel at its medieval magnificence.

      Alamy

      22 Jokkmokk winter market

      The Jokkmokk winter market sells everything from bearskins to candlesticks.

      Alamy

      23 Europe’s last wilderness

      Explore the wild, rugged and remote far north on the Kungsleden hiking trail.

      iStock

      24 ORSA ROVDJURSPARK

      Europe’s biggest bear park is the perfect place to see Sweden’s greatest predator in its natural habitat.

      Helena Wahlman/Imagebank.sweden.se

      25 a sauna and a splash

      The perfect end to a long day, a Swedish sauna traditionally finishes with a roll in the snow or a plunge into cold water.

      < Back to Intro

      iStock

      Tailor-made trips

      Sweden is a vast country, and you can’t cover all of it in a single trip. Our Grand Tour concentrates on Sweden’s main sights, while our other suggested routes focus on two fascinating regions, one in the south, one in the north. Each itinerary will take a packed two weeks to cover; with only a week to spare you can cover part of one, and get a flavour of the whole country or one of the regions that make Sweden special.

      GRAND TOUR OF SWEDEN

      Two weeks in Sweden and no idea where to start? Our Grand Tour puts you on the right track.

      Stockholm The vibrant heart of Sweden is one of Europe’s saner capitals, with everything from style-conscious bars and restaurants to worldclass museums and galleries.

      Lund Awash with students and bikes, likeable Lund boasts the country’s greatest cathedral set amid its compact, cobbled centre.

      Malmö Sweden’s gateway to Europe, Malmö is linked by frequent trains to the Danish capital, Copenhagen, and is accordingly cosmopolitan.

      Gothenburg Sweden’s second city and Scandinavia’s biggest port, handsome Gothenburg looks like Amsterdam with its canals and gabled houses.

      Dalarna The Swedes think of Dalarna as the most Swedish part of Sweden – all rolling hills, flower meadows and log cabins.

      Östersund Charming lakeside town in the centre of the country which makes a perfect break on the long journey north.

      Jokkmokk Tucked just inside the Arctic Circle, Jokkmokk has a strong Sámi identity and is a good place to learn more about the country’s indigenous population.

      Luleå The most attractive of Sweden’s northern cities, Luleå provides ready access to the fascinating UNESCO-listed church town at Gammelstad.

      Sundsvall Grandiose stone architecture immediately sets Sundsvall apart from its neighbours. The biggest city in the north, it has plenty of good restaurants and bars to sample, too.

      THE BEST OF THE NORTH

      Östersund Go hunting for Sweden’s answer to the Loch Ness monster on Lake Storsjön, which provides a magnificent backdrop to this laid-back town.

      You can book these trips with Rough Guides, or we can help you create your own. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

      Vildmarksvägen For a taste of wild Sweden, take this switchback route through some of central Sweden’s most remote and haunting landscapes.

      Vilhelmina A handy stop on the way north; make sure you book into one of the sturdy wooden cottages of the church town for an atmospheric night’s accommodation.

      Arvidsjaur Take a trip on a steam train or visit the traditional Sámi dwellings of the Lappstaden right in the town centre.

      Jokkmokk In addition to a great Sámi museum, there’s also a delightful alpine flower garden.

      Abisko The starting point for the 500km Kungsleden hiking trail as well as the best place in Sweden to see the northern lights.

      Kiruna Gateway to the famous Icehotel in nearby Jukkasjärvi; get here before the whole town sinks into the ground.

      Luleå Visit the UNESCO-listed church town at nearby Gammelstad or ride the boat out into the stunning archipelago.

      High Coast The most beautiful stretch of the northern Swedish coast lies north of Härnösand and is best seen from the ferries which serve the offshore islands.

      SOUTHERN SWEDEN

      Malmö The perfect gateway to southern Sweden, Malmö enjoys some of the country’s warmest weather and features a string of city beaches ideal for topping up your tan.

      Lund Enjoy the atmosphere in southern Sweden’s most attractive city, renowned for its great bars and restaurants which cater to the huge student population.

      Kalmar One of southern Sweden’s most underrated destinations, Kalmar is home to the fascinating Kronan exhibition.

      Gotland The Swedish destination, Gotland’s charms are legendary: cobbled medieval streets and alleyways, superb sandy beaches and a party atmosphere that lasts all summer long.

      Karlstad Busy and fun city set on the shores of Sweden’s biggest lake – take a tour of the city by boat or enjoy the beaches.

      Vadstena With its moated castle and stunning abbey, historically significant Vadstena is Sweden at its most grand and imposing.

      Gothenburg The Gothenburgers are said to be the friendliest people in the whole of Sweden – pull up a chair in one of the city’s many great cafés and strike up a conversation.

      Varberg People have been coming to Varberg to take the waters for generations – join them and leave your clothes behind.

      < Back to Intro

      Ola Ericson/Imagebank.sweden.se

      CROWDS IN STOCKHOLM CELEBRATING SWEDISH NATIONAL DAY

      Basics

      Getting there

      Getting around

      Accommodation

      Food and drink

      The media

      Festivals

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Culture and etiquette

      Travel essentials

      Getting there

      Given the extremely long distances and journey times involved in reaching Sweden overland, flying will not only save you considerable amounts of time but money too. The main gateways are Stockholm and Gothenburg, as well as Copenhagen in neighbouring Denmark, just a twenty-minute train ride from Malmö.

      Air fares are generally cheaper when booked as far in advance as possible. Midweek travel is less expensive than weekend departures.

      Flights from North America

      The main two airlines operating between North America icelandair.net) via Keflavík, the latter very often being a source of reasonable fares to Sweden. From New York, a return ticket midweek fare to Stockholm (8hr) will cost around US$900 in high season, US$500 in low season. From Chicago (9hr), prices are roughly US$150 more than from New York; from the West Coast (journey time at least 12hr), you’ll pay around US$200–300 more.

      There are no direct flights from Canada, so the best way of reaching Sweden is generally with Icelandair from one of their Canadian gateways such as Toronto. Several other airlines also operate flights from Toronto and Vancouver to European cities, with connections on to Stockholm. Fares from Toronto (journey time 9–13hr depending on connections) are around Can$1000 in high season, Can$600 in low season. From Vancouver (13–18hr), they’re around Can$300 higher.

      Flights from the UK and Ireland

      Flights for Stockholm, Gothenburg and Copenhagen leave from several UK airports; in winter there are also direct flights from London Heathrow to Kirunaryanair.com) is usually the cheapest way of getting there. Single fares can be as low as £15, though in peak season a return price of £90–120 is more realistic, depending on how early the booking is made. The other main airline easyJet.com) who operate into Copenhagen. From Ireland, there are services from Dublin only, and fares are roughly the same as from the UK.

      Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

      There are no direct flights to Sweden from Australia, New Zealand or South Africa and by far the cheapest option is to find a discounted air fare to London and arrange a flight to Sweden from there. Alternatively, some airlines such as Air China and Thai Airways offer competitive fares to Stockholm via their hubs in Beijing and Bangkok respectively. Fares from Sydney to Stockholm start at around $1500; from Perth or Darwin, flights are usually around $200 more. From New Zealand reckon on NZ$2000 as a starting point from Auckland, NZ$200 more from Wellington. From South Africa, count on around ZAR7500 for the cheapest return from Cape Town.

      By train

      Getting to Sweden by train is much more expensive than flying. There are no through tickets and the total of all the tickets you’ll need from the UK is likely to cost around £300–400. Hence, it’s worth buying a rail pass instead; a global InterRail pass (from £193) or Eurail pass (from US$252) are the best options. From Londonseat61.com/sweden.

      A BETTER KIND OF TRAVEL

      At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. We encourage our authors to consider the carbon footprint of the journeys they make in the course of researching our guides.

      RAIL CONTACTS

      Swedish Railways (SJ) sj.se. The general agent for Swedish rail tickets.

      uk.voyages-scf.com

      Package holidays

      Don’t be put off by the idea of an inclusive package, as it can sometimes be the cheapest way of doing things, and a much easier way of reaching remote areas of northern Sweden in winter. City breaks are invariably less expensive than if you arrange the same trip independently. There are also a number of operators (see below) offering special-interest holidays to Sweden.

      SPECIALIST operators

      Bentours International bentours.com.au. The leading Australian specialist to Sweden offering air, ferry and rail tickets and a host of (often upmarket) escorted and independent tours throughout Scandinavia.

      Contiki Tours contiki.com. Budget tours of Scandinavia for 18- to 35-year-olds.

      < Back to Basics

      Getting around

      The public transport system in Sweden is one of Europe’s most efficient. There’s a comprehensive train network in the south of the country; in the north travelling by train isn’t quite so easy, as many loss-making branch lines have been closed. However, it’s still possible to reach the main towns in the north by train, and where train services no longer exist, buses generally cover the same routes.

      Look out for city and regional discount cards, which often give free use of local transport, free museum entry and other discounts.

      By train

      Other than flying, train resrobot.se. Many station names in Sweden carry the letter C after the name of the city, for example: Stockholm C; this is a railspeak abbreviation of Central.

      Tickets

      Individual train tickets are rarely cost-effective and visitors doing a lot of touring by train may be better off buying a train pass interrail.eu) for Sweden allows up to eight days’ travel in one month and starts at £248. If you do need to buy an individual ticket, it’s worth knowing that the sooner you buy it the cheaper it will be. The cheapest tickets, limited in number, cost 95kr on most SJ routes (195kr on express trains) and are available up to ninety days before departure. Reserved seats on Swedish trains are not marked, so although it may appear that a seat is free it may not be so.

      The Inlandsbanan

      If you’re in Sweden for any length of time, travelling at least part of the summer-only Inlandsbanan inlandsbanan.se), which runs through central and northern Sweden, is a must. The route takes in some of the country’s most unspoilt terrain – kilometre after kilometre of forests, and several lakes (the train usually stops at one or two of them for passengers to take a quick dip), and offers a chance to see real off-the-beaten-track Sweden. For more information. The length of the operating season varies from year to year, but trains generally run from some time in June through to August; check the website for the latest details.

      By bus

      Although bus travel is a little less expensive than going by train, long-distance buses nettbuss.se). Departures on Friday and Sunday cost more than on other days; a standard single ticket from Stockholm to Gothenburg, for example, costs from 209kr.

      Regional buses are particularly important in the north, where they carry mail to isolated areas. Several companies operate daily services, and their fares are broadly similar to one another’s (usually 250–350kr for a 1–2hr journey). Major routes are listed in the Destinations sections within each chapter, and you can pick up a comprehensive timetable at any bus terminal.

      By plane

      The main players in the Swedish domestic airline airleap.se). When booked well in advance, one-way fares on most routes begin at around 450kr.

      By ferries and boats

      In a country with such an extensive coastline and many lakes, it’s only natural that domestic ferry services in Sweden are many and varied. The main route is between Visby, on the Baltic island of Gotland, and Nynäshamn, on the mainland near Stockholm. Departures are very popular in summer and you should try to book ahead.

      Many of the various archipelagos off the coast – particularly the Stockholm archipelago with its 24,000 islands – have ferry services which link up the main islands in the group. There’s also an extensive archipelago off Luleå which is worth visiting.

      By car

      As far as road conditions go, driving in Sweden is a dream. Traffic jams are rare (in fact in the north of the country yours will often be the only car on the road), roads are well maintained and motorways, where they exist, are toll-free. The only real hazards are reindeer (in the north), elk and deer, which wander onto the road without warning. It’s difficult enough to see them at dusk, and when it’s completely dark all you’ll see is two red eyes as the animal leaps out in front of your car. If you hit an elk or deer, not only will you know about it (they’re as big as a horse), but you’re bound by law to report it to the police.

      Rules and regulations

      To drive in Sweden, you’ll need your own full licence; an international driving licence isn’t required. Speed limits are 110kph on motorways; 70kph, 80kph or 90kph on main roads; and 30kph, 40kph or 50kph in built-up areas. For cars towing caravans, the limit is 80kph. Fines for speeding are levied on the spot. You must drive with your headlights on 24 hours a day. Studded tyres for driving on snow and ice are allowed between October 1 and April 30, longer if there’s still snow on the ground; when in use they must be fitted to all wheels.

      Swedish drink-driving laws are among the strictest in Europe, and random breath tests are commonplace. Basically, you can’t have even one beer and still be under the limit; the blood alcohol level is 0.02 percent. If you’re found to be over the limit you’ll lose the right to drive in Sweden, face a fine (often) and a prison sentence (not infrequently).

      Parking

      Be attentive when it comes to parking. Under Swedish law you can’t park within 10m of a road junction, be it a tiny residential cul-de-sac or a major intersection. Parking is also prohibited within 10m of a pedestrian crossing, and in bus lanes and loading zones. In city centres, parking isn’t permitted on one night each week to allow for cleaning (see the rectangular yellow signs with days and times in Swedish, below the no stopping sign on every street). In winter the same applies to allow for snow clearance.

      Petrol

      The cost of petrol (bensin) is in line with the European average (about 15kr per litre). At filling stations, you either pay at the pump with a credit card or inside at the till – choose the pumps marked Kassa for this.

      CAR RENTAL AGENCIES

      Avis avis.com

      Europcar europcar.com

      Hertz hertz.com

      SIXT sixt.com

      Cycling

      Some parts of the country were made for cycling: Stockholm, the southern provinces and Gotland in particular are ideal for a leisurely bike ride. Many towns are best explored by bike, and tourist offices, campsites and youth hostels often rent them out from around 150kr a day. There are a lot of cycle paths in towns, which are often shared with pedestrians.

      < Back to Basics

      Accommodation

      Finding somewhere cheap to stay in Sweden isn’t difficult. There’s an extensive network of youth hostels (of an exceptionally high standard) and campsites, while hotels and guesthouses are common in towns and cities. Self-catering accommodation is generally restricted to youth hostels and campsites, where cabins are often equipped with kitchens.

      Youth hostels

      Youth hostels in Sweden (vandrarhem) turn up in the unlikeliest of places. There are over three hundred of them dotted across the country, in converted lighthouses, old castles and prisons, historic country manors, schoolrooms and even on boats. Quite simply, they offer some of the best accommodation in the country. Forget any preconceptions about youth hostelling: in Sweden, dormitories are few, and most hostels only rent double rooms.

      The majority of hostels are run by STF (Svenska Turistföreningensvenskaturistforeningen.se). Apart from the STF hostels there are a number of independently run hostels, usually charging similar prices; we’ve mentioned the most useful ones in the text, and tourist offices will have details of any other local independent hostels.

      Throughout the Guide we give the non-member prices for staying in an STF hostel; members pay 50kr less per stay at every hostel in the country. Generally, the rental of linen and towels is not included in the price of a room or bed; we have noted any exceptions in the book.

      Fell stations and cabins

      Fell stations (fjällstationer), or mountain lodges, provide top-notch, hostel-like accommodation along mountain hiking routes; prices vary and are given in the Guide. They’re usually better equipped than the average youth hostel: rooms are private rather than dorms, and each fell station has a sauna, a shop and a kitchen.

      Mountain cabins (fjällstugor), of which there are around ninety in the country, are often no more than simple huts out in the wilds and are wonderful for getting away from it all. Run by the STF, they are generally located at convenient intervals along popular walking routes. Both fell stations and mountain cabins allow you to use a sleeping bag without a sheet underneath.

      Hotels and guesthouses

      Hotels and guesthouses (usually family-run bed and breakfast establishments) needn’t be expensive, and although there’s little chance of finding any kind of room for under 550kr a night, you can often find good-value hotel rooms in summer, especially between mid-June and mid-August, when business people who would otherwise fill the hotels during the week are on holiday. The only parts of the country where summer discounts don’t apply are in some of the popular holiday destinations in southern Sweden such as Gotland, where prices can actually go up in summer. Nearly all hotels include a huge self-service buffet breakfast in the price, which will keep you going for much of the day.

      Campsites, cabins and self-catering

      Practically every town or village has at least one campsite, and they are generally of a high standard. To pitch a tent at any of them you’ll need the Camping Key Europe cardcamping.se). It costs around 200kr for two people to pitch a tent at an official campsite and most sites are open from June to August. For details on camping rough.

      ACCOMMODATION PRICES

      Accommodation prices in Sweden vary according to the day of the week and the season. Pricing falls into two main categories: the higher price is charged for stays from Sunday to Thursday outside of the summer peak (generally mid-June to mid-Aug); the lower rate is charged on Fridays and Saturdays. This lower rate is also applied every day during the summer peak. Remember though that this rule does not apply across the board and there are some places that actually charge higher prices in summer in line with most other countries; this is usually the case with hotels on the west coast. When we give two prices in the Guide, these reflect the difference in price according to season or day, with the high-season and weekend rate generally given first.

      Single rooms, where available, usually cost between sixty and eighty percent of the price.

      Many campsites also boast cabins, each of which is usually equipped with bunk beds, a kitchen and utensils, but not sheets. Self-catering in cabins is a good way to keep costs down. Cabins start around 500kr per night for a two-bed number. As usual, it’s wise to book ahead to secure one. Sweden also has a whole series of cabins for rent in spots other than campsites, often in picturesque locations such as in the middle of the forest, by a lakeshore or on the coast. For information and to make a booking, contact the local tourist office.

      < Back to Basics

      Food and drink

      From meatballs to marinated herring, cloudberries to cinnamon buns, Swedish food is always tasty. There’s no escaping the fact, however, that eating and drinking is going to take up a large slice of your budget in Sweden – though no more so than in any other northern European country.

      Eating well and eating cheaply needn’t be mutually exclusive aims, however the best strategy is to fuel up on breakfast and lunch, both of which offer good-value options. Breakfast is often included in the cost of a night’s accommodation, and most restaurants have lunchtime specials (dagens rätt) that time and again are the best-value meals you’ll find. When eating out, resist the temptation to order a starter – throughout Sweden portions are generous and most main dishes are large enough to fill even the emptiest stomach.

      Note that although tipping in Swedish restaurants is not expected, it is customary to round the bill up to the nearest 20kr or so.

      Food

      Swedish food – based largely on fish, meat and potatoes, and very varied in preparation – is always tasty and well presented and, at its best, is delicious. Unusual specialities generally come from the north of the country and include reindeer, elk meat and wild berries, while herring and salmon come in so many different guises that fish fiends will always be content.

      Sweden’s various salmon dishes are divine either warm or cold, and a mainstay of any Swedish smörgåsbord worth its salt. Herring is mostly served marinated, but don’t let that put you off as it tastes surprisingly good. Sauces feature prominently in Swedish cooking, often flavoured with dill or parsley; alternatively, there are many delicious creamy concoctions too.

      Wild berries appear in many dishes, especially the lingonberry, which is something like a cranberry, and makes a good accompaniment to Swedish meatballs, a combination praised by many a Swede as a delicacy of the country. You’ll also be able to taste orange-coloured sweet cloudberries, which grow in the marshes of Lapland and are delicious with ice cream.

      One Swedish speciality to keep an eye out for is surströmming, which is Baltic herring fermented for months until it’s rotten – something of an acquired taste, even to most Swedes.

      Vegetarians should have no problems, with plenty of non-meat options available, especially in the bigger towns; elsewhere the choice may be limited to pizzas and salads.

      Breakfast

      Breakfast (frukost) is almost invariably a help-yourself buffet in the best Swedish tradition; you can go up to the serving table as many times as you like and eat until you’re fit to explode. Youth hostels charge around 50kr for breakfast; if you stay in a hotel, it’ll be included in the price of your accommodation.

      Snacks and light meals

      For snacks and light meals you’re really looking at the delights dished up by the gatukök (street kitchen). A gatukök is often no more than a hole in the wall – generally conspicuous by the snaking queue and gaggle of teenagers it attracts – serving sausages, burgers, chips, soft drinks and sometimes pizza slices or chicken pieces. Chips with a sausage or burger generally comes to around 75kr.

      FIKA: COFFEE AND CAKE

      Coffee is to the Swedes what tea is to the British and there’s seemingly no part of the day which isn’t perfect for a "fika": a cup of coffee, accompanied by a pastry or piece of cake. Unsurprisingly, coffee is something the Swedes excel at, and is always freshly brewed, strong and delicious – head for the local konditori, a coffee and cake shop of the first order. A coffee costs around 25kr and the price will often buy you more than one cup.

      Self-catering

      For the cheapest eating it’s hard to beat the supermarkets and market stalls. Of the supermarket chains, ICA and Coop have the biggest range of produce but most supermarkets in Sweden are small local affairs selling just the basics and a few other bits and pieces. Alternatively, head for the indoor or outdoor markets, which often have fresher produce than the supermarkets, and at lower prices.

      Fish is always excellent value, especially salmon. Pork and beef aren’t too bad either, but chicken is slightly more expensive. Sweden is a country rich in cheeses, all of which are reasonably good value and make great sandwich fillers; the range runs from stronger ripened cheeses such as Västerbotten and Svecia to milder types like Grevé and Herrgårdsost. Prästost, a medium-strong cheese akin to a mature Cheddar, is also a particular favourite here.

      Restaurants

      Swedes eat their main meal of the day at lunchtime; do likewise and you’ll save lots of cash. However, you don’t have to restrict yourself to eating out at lunchtime; many restaurants also offer special deals in the evening, and even if they don’t you’re bound to find something on their menu that will fit your pocket. Remember that Swedish portions are generous and that, accordingly, you may not have room for a starter as well.

      Bear in mind that Swedes eat early; lunch will be served from 11am, dinner from 6pm. It’s always a good idea to book a table to avoid disappointment, particularly during the summer months of June to August when tables can be at a premium. Smoking is not allowed in restaurant or pubs.

      At lunchtime, go for the dagens rätt or set dish of the day, which generally costs between 75kr and 125kr and is one way to sample Swedish husmanskost (home cooking). You’ll also find various pizza and pasta dishes on offer in Italian restaurants, and basic meals in Thai and Chinese restaurants (sometimes a buffet-type spread). Most cafés also offer some sort of dagens rätt but their standard of cooking is often not as good as in restaurants.

      An evening meal in a mid-range restaurant will cost you 150–250kr without alcohol. A three-course meal naturally costs more; expect to pay something in the region of 400–600kr, and add around 75kr for a strong beer, or 300kr for an average bottle of wine. Dishes usually have some sort of salad accompaniment and come with bread.

      While you’re in Sweden you should sample a smörgåsbord – an array of small dishes, both warm and cold. It’s available in the larger restaurants and in hotels for around 400–500kr – expensive, but good for a blowout. If you’re a traditionalist you should start with akvavit, drink beer throughout and finish with coffee. Coffee will be included in the price, but alcohol won’t.

      Drinks

      Drinking in Sweden can be expensive, but there are ways of softening the blow. Either forgo bars and buy your booze in the state-run liquor shops, the Systembolaget, or seek out the happy hours (usually called After Work in Swedish) offered at many pubs and bars. The timing of happy hours is usually set to coincide with people finishing work, so keep your eyes peeled for signs either in bar windows or on the pavement outside. Drinking outdoors is frowned upon and you’re not allowed to take alcohol onto a train or the street for your own consumption (drinking alcohol purchased on trains or in pavement cafés is permitted).

      What to drink

      Beer is the most common alcoholic drink in Sweden, although it can be expensive. Whether you buy beer in a café, restaurant or a bar, it’ll cost roughly the same, on average 55–75kr for half a litre of lager-type brew. Unless you specify otherwise, the beer you get in a bar will be starköl (also referred to as storstark), with an alcohol content of 5.6 percent by volume. Low-alcohol beers are available for sale in supermarkets.

      Wine in restaurants is pricey; a bottle will set you back something like 300kr, and a glass around 75kr. It’s also worth trying the akvavit or schnapps, which is made from potatoes, served ice-cold in tiny shots and washed down with beer. It comes in dozens of weird and wonderful flavours, from lemon to cumin-and-dill. If you’re in Sweden at Christmas, don’t go home without having sampled glögg: mulled red wine with cloves, cinnamon, sugar and more than a shot of akvavit.

      Where to drink

      You’ll find pubs and bars in all towns and some villages. In Stockholm and the larger cities the trend is towards British- and Irish-style pubs, although the atmosphere inside never quite lives up to the original. Elsewhere – particularly in the north of the country – you’ll come across more down-to-earth drinking dens. Drink is no cheaper here, and the clientele is predominantly male and usually drunk.

      THE SYSTEMBOLAGET

      In any Swedish town or city, the Systembolaget is the only shop that sells wine, strong beer and spirits. It’s run by the state, is only open office hours (generally Mon–Wed & Fri 10am–6pm, Thurs till 7pm, Sat 10am–2pm) and until quite recently kept all its alcohol on display in locked glass cabinets – this is still the case in many smaller stores. Debate over the future of the system rumbles on and Sweden is coming under increasing pressure from the European Commission to liberalize the sale of alcohol and open up the market to free competition.

      In the summer, café-bars spill out onto the pavement, which is a more suitable environment for children and handy if all you want is a coffee. When you can’t find a bar in an out-of-the-way place, head for the local hotel – but be prepared to pay for the privilege. Bar opening hours are elastic, and drinking-up time is generally some time after midnight. Smoking is banned in all of Sweden’s restaurants, bars, cafés and nightclubs.

      < Back to Basics

      The media

      Stockholm is the centre of the Swedish media world. All national radio and television stations are broadcast from the capital, and the country’s four main daily newspapers are also based there. However, every region or city also has its own newspaper, for example Göteborgsposten in Gothenburg or Norrbottens tidning in Lapland. In remote parts of the country, particularly in the north, these local media really come into their own; in winter, people depend on them for accurate and up-to-date information on everything from local political machinations to snow depths in the vicinity.

      Swedish newspapers

      The main Swedish papers are Dagens Nyheter and Svenska Dagbladet and the tabloids, Expressen and Aftonbladet. You may also come across Metro, a free newspaper available at train and tube stations, which has lots of what’s on information; its listings are in Swedish only, but will be comprehensible enough if you don’t speak the language.

      TV and radio

      Swedish TV won’t take up much space on your postcards home. There are two state channels, SVT1 and SVT2, operated by Sveriges Television (SVT), worth watching if only for the wooden continuity announcers. TV3 is a pretty dire cable station, and Sweden’s only terrestrial commercial station is the somewhat downmarket TV4. TV5 is a cheesy cable channel available in most hotels that seems to show nothing but a string of American sitcoms. On all the channels, foreign programmes are in their original language, which makes for easy viewing; SVT1 and SVT2 show a lot of excellent BBC documentaries and comedy programmes.

      On the radiosr.se for frequencies). You’ll also find news in English radiosweden.org).

      < Back to Basics

      Festivals

      Swedish festivals are for the most part organized around the seasons. Most celebrations are lively events, as Swedes are great party people – once the beer begins to flow. The highlight of the year is the midsummer festival, when the whole country gets involved, and wild parties last well into the early hours. The date of Midsummer’s Day varies from year to year but is the Saturday closest to the actual summer solstice.

      FEBRUARY

      Great Winter Market, Jokkmokk jokkmokksmarknad.se);.

      APRIL

      Valborgsmässoafton (April 30). Walpurgis Night. One of the most important festivals in Sweden, heralding the beginning of spring with bonfires and songs.

      MAY

      Labour Day (May 1). A none-too-thrilling marching day for the workers’ parties.

      JUNE

      Swedish National Day (June 6). In existence since 1983, though a bit of a damp squib even though it’s now a public holiday; worthy speeches are delivered in the evening and the king often puts in an appearance at Skansen in Stockholm.

      Midsummer (the Fri & Sat between June 20 and June 26). The biggest and best celebration anywhere in Sweden, with festivities centred around the maypole, an old fertility symbol, which is erected at popular gatherings across the country. The maypole is raised in June because it’s often still snowing in northern Sweden in May. There’s much dancing and drinking into the night – and severe hangovers the next morning. The most famous celebrations in the country are those held in Dalarna, which culminate in the church boat (kyrkbåtar) races held on Lake Siljan.

      JULY

      Pajala marknad (second weekend after midsummer). Forty thousand people make their way to Pajala in northern Sweden for this annual market;.

      Musik vid Dellen, Hudiksvall musikviddellen.se);.

      Årets Näck, Hackås (second Thursday in July). Male fiddle players strip naked to play their

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