GM Turbo 350 Transmissions: How to Rebuild and Modify

PREFACE

Having been a dedicated muscle car enthusiast now for the better part of my adult life, I can say with no exaggeration whatsoever that there are few things more enjoyable that being able to work on your own car or truck and get perfect results from your efforts. To this day, I have never understood why hobbyists farm out many of the components of their cars to others instead of rebuilding them in their own shops or garages. Transmissions, in particular, are at the top of the list for the items that get farmed out. There has always been a mystique about transmissions that makes even the most skilled automotive technicians avoid them like the plague! They also get hit with some pretty hefty bills from not doing them at home.

Similar to most other things associated with this hobby, you can get results that are just as good, or better, and save money by doing it yourself. The key component here is information, followed closely by motivation. This book was designed for the hobbyist.

It was a Saturday afternoon in early fall 1978 in the small garage detached from the house we lived in at that time. Without any outside assistance I had decided to tackle a TH350 transmission rebuild. Not that I really wanted to do it; I would rather have gone hunting or someplace with my friends. I still chuckle every time I lift the valve body off of a transmission, and think back to the six check balls that were rolling across the concrete floor in my garage. I had removed the valve body and turned the unit over to allow the fluid to drain out. At that moment I was really thinking that I should have carried it to a shop, but my income level at that time just didn’t have any room in it for a high-performance muscle car that wasn’t moving because I had fried its transmission.

I managed to find five of the six check balls, and after careful observation could see the tracks in the case where they were supposed to be. The story has a good ending; although that particular rebuild took me several weeks, and I wasn’t at all confident that the car was going to move under its own power when I lowered it to the ground for a test drive!

Over three decades and hundreds of units later, I’m armed with quite a bit more knowledge, and a toolbox full of homemade tools dedicated strictly to transmission work. I don’t give a second thought to stripping any automatic transmission down to a bare case, then putting it back together with my large assortment of hand-crafted custom tools and self-learned special procedures.

I set two goals for this book: to provide the information I’ve learned over many years to others and to present that information in a way that puts this task well within reach of the average enthusiast. Basically, I wanted to make the information available and also keep it simple and easy to understand. In addition, I want to show you that you really can do the work at home, by yourself, and make a lot of what you need to accomplish the task from common hand tools, or other items typically found in most home garages.

INTRODUCTION

At a glance, transmissions are somewhat complex and contain a lot of parts and components. The good news is that with the help of this book, a lot of the complexity will be taken out of the equation. Transmissions are actually quite easy to rebuild. These units in particular are older designs and relatively simple in construction and function. There is no need to be afraid of them, and armed with the correct knowledge, tools and information, they are certainly not beyond the scope of the average hobbyist. The user still needs to become familiar with the basic theory and design of the units, and which tools and equipment are going to be required to complete the rebuild. Once armed with knowledge and the required tools, you can proceed. If you are pulling your transmission out and putting it back into the vehicle yourself, you may want to reference Chapter 3 (removal) and Chapter 7 (installation) first, for additional information, helpful hints, tips, etc.

The TH350 is an automatic 3-speed transmission. It is considered by many to be one of the best automatic transmissions ever built. It was introduced in 1968 and developed to replace the Powerglide and Super Turbine 300 2-speed units used by General Motors through the late 1960s. The TH350 quickly became known for its strength, versatility, compactness, and availability. They were available in both Chevrolet and BOP (Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac) bolt housing patterns, and also produced with a universal bolt pattern to cover all Chevy/BOP applications. Short-tail–shaft versions were also used for four-wheel-drive applications with the transfer case bolted directly to the transmission. Special HD 4x4 cases were also produced in the later 1970s due to their use in Chevy and GMC trucks, Blazers, and Suburbans. These HD cases are easily identified because they have a solid cast aluminum bolt on torque converter cover, and the case is reinforced in the bellhousing area. This special cover had provisions for large strut rods that ran forward and bolted to the engine motor mounts. These were intended to help support the cast bellhousing area of the transmission, as case failures were occurring at a high enough rate to warrant this upgrade.

Very late production TH350 transmissions were also available with a lock-up torque converter. They are somewhat rare and General Motors quickly moved on to the 200-4R and 700-4R units; the TH350 lock-up units were discontinued. I do not cover the TH350 lock-up transmission here. Even so, the rebuilding procedures for them as essentially the same as the standard units, with the exception of the wiring, lock-up solenoid on the valve body, lock-up torque converter, and associated passages that provide fluid flow to the converter for lock up.

General Motors also produced a smaller cousin to the TH350, the TH250. It is similar to the TH350, except that it has a band adjustment screw on the passenger’s side of the transmission just above the pan rail.

TH350 transmissions were produced in great numbers, and many used units are still for sale. They have become even more popular in recent years thanks to their good reputation for performance applications, and even severe duty with the addition of a few aftermarket upgrades. Some controversy exists as to whether the TH350 actually consumes less power than its larger cousin the TH400, but TH350s are more readily available, especially with the Chevrolet bolt housing bolt pattern. They are also a great choice for small-block–powered vehicles and handle the power output of the ever-popular small-block Chevy engine without a lot of additional help during rebuilding.

The factory made numerous changes to the TH350 during its production run, but stuck with the same basic design; most of the internal parts interchange. As with anything else that relates to this hobby, it is always best to use all the original components during the rebuild. If you need to swap out drums, shafts, oil pumps, and other parts, try to obtain that piece from the same year, application, model, etc. As far as upgrades for the TH350 are concerned, the biggest differences were adding Torrington bearings between some of the parts instead of metal or plastic thrust washers. Some plastic and Teflon parts found their way into the later units.

Overall, it is a relatively strong transmission, and suitable for high-performance use. Gear ratios are 2.52, 1.52, and 1.00:1. One of the weakest points in these units is the intermediate sprag/race assembly. High-mileage units often show considerable wear at the center support case lugs as well. The aftermarket produces stronger parts and upgrades for both of these areas. When correctly prepared, the TH350 can handle a lot of power, and it is a good choice for high-performance racing applications. Folks are too quick to jump to the TH400, when a few minor modifications to their TH350 transmission produces a unit that is capable of holding up to great power as does the stronger TH400 transmission. The only difference at that point is the case.

The TH400 case is stronger where it flares up to the bellhousing area. I’ve seen a good number of TH350s break at this location, but all of those were being used in drag racing applications with big horsepower and good traction. However, with that said, pinion angle, engine mounts, and transmission mounts play a huge role in case breakage. I’ve had perfect success with TH350s but also make sure that steps are taken to minimize the twist and flex that can be imposed on them in racing applications.

The basic rebuilding information is the same for all years and models. When applicable, I point out factory upgrades, and places that require close attention when rebuilding these units. They are not overly complicated, or difficult to rebuild. As with any other transmission-rebuilding project, close attention to detail, good parts, and careful assembly is required.

You will also notice that I am replacing all of the bushings in every transmission rebuild. Most of the plastic or metal/brass thrust washers are also replaced. This is not a common practice among transmission builders. I have also found that the factory bushings (in units such as the TH350) may pass a visual inspection, but just about fall out of their locations with hand pressure during removal. This is especially true for the two bushings located in the sun gear, as they get worked pretty hard over the life of the unit. Typically, bushings are given a visual inspection and left in place, as some are somewhat difficult to remove and install.

Thrust washers are also reused in most cases, provided they pass a quick visual inspection. From a rebuilding standpoint, it is a good idea to spend the additional time and funds to replace all of the bushings and thrust washers. The results from doing this are all positive for the transmission. Having less fore/aft and up/down movement between the parts reduces gear noise and improves sealing of the rings, which produces a final product that runs quieter, shifts better, and lasts longer.

So, let’s get started . . . .

CHAPTER 1

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

This chapter is one of the most important in this book.

Transmission rebuilding is not overly difficult, but it does involve attention to detail, and exact precision in every area. This does not mean that completely and correctly rebuilding an automatic transmission is beyond the scope and capabilities of the average automotive enthusiast. Automatic transmissions have always had a mystique about them that keeps away even the most skilled automotive technicians. There is no need to carry your TH350 off to a shop or to someone with more experience. A complete and correct rebuild can be accomplished in a small shop or garage. Anyone taking on the task simply needs to be armed with good information, a few tools that I describe, and good parts.

At the very top of the list of necessary items is a clean work area. An automatic transmission is a hydraulic or fluid-drive system. All parts must be kept dirt free and working smoothly for correct function. The person rebuilding the unit is essentially returning the main components to the same location, while, as necessary, replacing parts that wear out.

My goal is to outline the tools and equipment that help get the job done, showing tools that are often already part of the average automotive enthusiast’s toolbox, and tools that can be obtained easily, modified, or fabricated to get a particular task accomplished, without having to spend a lot of money buying them.

It is true that a few special tools may be required for certain operations on several of the units I cover. The good news is that the majority of the tools required are simply plain old hand tools, or tools that are easily fabricated if a procedure requires something not typically found in the average toolbox.

The biggest hurdle to overcome when rebuilding TH350 transmission is removing the low/reverse piston’s snap ring and spring cage from the case. That part of the build will require some sort of spring compressor. One can be fabricated easily from a long threaded bolt or piece of threaded rod, a couple of pieces of flat steel, and a nut.

It’s surprising the amount of tools you can accumulate over nearly four decades of transmission rebuilding. The good news is that most of what is needed to rebuild the TH350 transmission is already in the average homeowner’s toolbox, or can be fabricated quickly from readily available materials at minimal cost.

Compress the spring cages on the high and forward drums. You can use the same type of tool for the direct drum, but the forward drum becomes more of a challenge because of its attached shaft. This requires a press or spring compressor that holds the direct drum in position and allows a compressor to center over the spring cage to compress. Then you can remove the snap ring.

Safety Equipment

First and foremost on your list should be safety equipment. Automatic transmissions use pressurized fluid. During the rebuild, you come into contact with transmission fluid and cleaning solvents. You will also be using compressed air for drying parts as well as air pressure for testing clutch packs, servos, etc.

Eye protection is a must anytime compressed air is used. Nothing is worse than getting high-detergent transmission fluid into your eyes, or a piece of dirt or debris when you are blowing off parts.

A good pair of safety glasses with plastic or impact resistant lenses is a must for transmission work.

Chemical-resistant gloves help protect your hands from chemicals such as cleaning solvents, automatic transmission fluid (ATF), and assembly lubricant.

Nitrile gloves are a good idea for keeping solvents and transmission fluid off your hands. They also provide some protection against cuts from the jagged edges inside the cases. The quality of the gloves currently available varies considerably. The better-quality gloves are thicker and more resistant to solvents such as brake cleaner (which works well to remove oily residue from parts before assembly).

Heavy-duty and chemical-resistant gloves also provide protection. Wear them while cleaning the transmission case with heavy-duty degreasers or other harsh chemicals.

Heavy-duty gloves should be worn if using a parts washer and solvents. They also offer some degree of protection when handling transmission cases during the cleaning process. Sharp edges can leave some pretty nasty cuts.

Hearing protection is a must when hammering bushings in place and blowing off parts with compressed air. The tiny passages found in transmissions can produce high-pitched noises when hit with high-pressure compressed air; it can seriously damage your hearing.

Hearing protection is also a very good idea. During the rebuild, compressed air is used to clean parts and dry them. For example, when high-pressure air is blown into the case passages, it often creates a high-pitched sound that can damage your hearing.

Sockets and Wrenches

General Motors used both metric and SAE fasteners throughout the years of production. Later units have metric fasteners; some units have both SAE and metric on the same unit. A complete socket set with 1/4-, 3/8-, and 1/2-inch-drive sockets is needed. Make sure to have extensions for each drive.

An air ratchet and an impact gun speed up the rebuilding process considerably. However, neither should be used to tighten fasteners because most go into the aluminum case, which is soft enough that the threads may strip out if excessive torque is used.

A torque wrench is necessary, as each fastener size has a torque value based on its diameter and hardness. The long handle on a torque wrench makes it very easy to over-tighten a bolt and strip the threads out of the case. This is easiest to do with the smaller fasteners that hold the valve body in place. Be careful and follow torque specs precisely.

A complete socket set with both metric and SAE is required. Most fasteners are SAE, but a few metric bolts can be found on later units.

In addition to a complete socket set, some hand wrenches are required. I especially like the new styles that have the ratcheting feature on the boxed end. They speed up the time typically required to tighten or remove a fastener that’s not accessible with a socket. Flare nut or tubing wrenches are made specifically for accessing the nuts that hold steel lines in place.

These wrenches have additional material and increased integrity to loosen stubborn flare nuts that hold the steel cooling lines to the case. They allow the wrench to slip over the tube, and still get a good purchase on the flare nut to remove it easily.

All fasteners have a torque setting based on the diameter and grade of the bolt. Just keep in mind that transmission cases are aluminum and you must use extreme care and sound judgment when tightening fasteners.

Both standard and metric wrenches are required. Most fasteners are SAE, but you will find that later units incorporated some metric fasteners.

Modern technology has left us with some very nice tools; these wrenches are an example. They can save a lot