Bandana-rama Wrap, Glue, Sew: Kids Make 21 Fast & Fun Craft Projects
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About this ebook
Full of inspiration for crafty kids, Bandana-rama shows how the classic bandana is also the ideal crafting material. Here you will find twenty-one easy inventive crafting projects that are easy for kids of all experience levels to complete. From headbands, belts, and hoodies, to pillows, guitar straps, and hoodie linings, all the projects can be achieved by hand sewing, machine sewing, or in some cases, by simply using scissors and glue.
Since bandanas are prehemmed, they cut down on time spent sewing borders and following stitching lines. As a result, there's more time for kids to explore their creativity and come up with a style that's all their own.
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Bandana-rama Wrap, Glue, Sew - Judith Cressy
Bandana Basics
A little history … and everything else you need to know.
A LITTLE HISTORY
When the first Indian silk scarves showed up in European shops in the 1600s, everyone had to have one. The brilliantly colored scarves were woven with a fluid teardrop design called the boteh. No one in Europe had seen anything like it—it was so exotic—and merchants could barely keep up with the demand. The scarves were known as bandanas,
from the Sanskrit word bandhana, which means to tie.
By the 1700s, French and British manufacturers were printing their own versions of the designs onto cotton scarves, which were as popular as the originals. In fact, one cotton-weaving center in Scotland, the town of Paisley, became so identified with the scarves that the boteh teardrop shape took on the name of the town.
After the American cotton industry was launched around 1800, manufacturers in the United States began producing their own bandanas. They’ve been with us ever since—equally at home on the range, on the railroads, at casual summer picnics, and on fashion photo shoots—no longer exotic, but beloved and wildly popular just the same.
EVERYTHING ELSE YOU NEED TO KNOW
Size and Shape
Some bandanas are the size of a handkerchief; others are large enough to wear as a sarong. The standard size is a 22˝ square. All of the projects in this book are made with standard bandanas. With that said, you’ll soon discover that bandanas are never truly square and they never measure exactly 22˝ (in fact, each of the four sides of a bandana might be a slightly different measurement). The border designs (along each side) can also vary in width on a single bandana. This can be frustrating when you’re trying to line up border patterns, but try to work around it. Part of the bandana’s charm, after all, is its casual look.
Washing and Ironing
Most bandanas are 100% cotton, which is one of the nicest fabrics to work with. If you’re not certain whether your bandana will shrink or if the colors will run in the wash, you’ll want to check before you start your project. (If you’re making a headband or something else that will never be washed, you can skip this step.)
Wash the bandana in hot water by itself or with other like colors. Tumble it dry in a hot dryer. It will definitely need ironing afterward. If you need help, be sure to ask an adult! Press the bandana with a steam iron on the cotton setting. If you want the bandana to be as crisp as it was before washing, spritz it with spray starch several times as you iron it.
Fraying
The most common fabric for bandanas is loosely woven cotton muslin, which frays (unravels) easily after it has been cut. Cutting bandanas with pinking shears will help prevent fraying. For a more permanent solution, use fusible (iron-on) interfacing on the back of the bandana, and finish edges with hems or blanket stitching.
Reversibility
Typically, bandanas are printed on both sides. They appear to be reversible, but one side often has better-quality printing than the other (usually the side without the hem fold). Throughout this book, I call these the right side and the wrong side of the bandana. For some projects, it’s important to have the right side showing, so be sure to take a look before you sew.
Tools and Materials
The tools and materials used in this book
can be found at most sewing and craft stores and through online suppliers. See Supplies and Resources for additional information.
Chalk pencil: Use a chalk pencil to draw cutting or sewing lines on fabric. You can sharpen a chalk pencil in a regular pencil sharpener to draw a fine line. Later, you can erase the line with a damp cloth. An erasable fabric marker works well, too.
Darning needle: Few people do much darning (mending holes in fabric) any more, but oversize darning needles have large eyes, so they are just the tools you’ll need if you are sewing a blanket stitch or other detail with yarn.
Dressmaker’s pins: Always keep a pincushion full of pins close at hand. You’ll need them constantly. I like glass- or pearl-head pins best because they’re the easiest to grab.
D-rings: Just as their name suggests, these belt rings, found in button and fabric shops, are D-shaped. Two rings are needed for making an adjustable belt. In a pinch, circular binder rings, found in any stationery store, will work just as well for a belt buckle.
Embroidery floss: Used for decorative handwork and edging, embroidery floss comes in a gorgeous array of glossy colors. It’s sold in skeins of six threads that are loosely twisted together. To use it, cut the length you want, and then separate and pull out the number of strands you need.
Fabric marker: Use these disappearing-ink pens to mark stitching or cutting lines on fabric. Moisten the marks with a damp cloth and the ink will disappear. Be sure to store markers with the cap on tight and the tip pointed downward to prevent drying. A chalk pencil also works well for marking.
Glue gun: An electric glue gun uses heat to melt sticks of glue. Its trigger allows you to squeeze out one dab of hot glue at a time. The melted glue hardens the moment it reaches its target, so you get an instant bond. Choose a low-temperature glue gun to avoid burns. Carefully follow the directions that come with it.
Hand needles: There are many types of needles for hand sewing. A package of general-purpose sharps
in multiple sizes is fine for all the projects in this book. Use the size that feels most comfortable to you.
Interfacing: Interfacing is