Food, inglorious food

ood has forever been subject to tinkering. Greedy merchants provoked the first food and drink laws in Britain, enacted under Henry III in 1266 when the Assisa Panis et Cervisiae (Assize of Bread and Ale) determined weight, quality and the price according to the prevailing cost of constituents. Harsh amercements awaited bakers who gave less than the prescribed amount, so they were careful to err on the side of caution – hence the ‘baker’s dozen’. The quality of beer was judged locally by an annually elected ale-conner or ale-founder, who proceeded from tavern to tavern wearing stout leather breeches. Having sampled by smell and taste, he would assess consistency by pouring an amount onto a wooden stool or bench and sitting on it. After a minute or so in situ the conner rose. If the ale was sufficiently sticky to cling to the leather, he pronounced