OBJECTIVE OF INTERNSHIP

To understand the concept of spun yarn production, dyeing, printing and finishing of yarns, testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for commercial purpose. The machinery features, machine and material process parameters have been described in detail in the areas as mentioned below:

Assignment 1: Observations to be made and information to be documented on the Yarn manufacturing and winding section: A. Raw material storage and inspection section. B. Blow room section. C. Carding section. D. Drawing section. E. Combing section. F. Roving section. G. Spinning section. Assignment 2: Observations to be made and information to be documented on the Dyeing section Assignment 3: Observations to be made and information to be documented on the Testing and Quality control sections

GROUP PROFILE

Vardhman Group is a leading textile conglomerate in India having a turnover of $700 mn. Spanning over 24 manufacturing facilities in five states across India, the Group business portfolio includes Yarn, Greige and Processed Fabric, Sewing Thread, Acrylic Fibre and Alloy Steel.

Vardhman Group manufacturing facilities include over 8,00,000 spindles, 65 tons per day yarn and fibre dyeing, 900 shuttleless looms, 90 mn meters per annum processed fabric, 33 tons per day sewing thread, 18000 metric tons per annum acrylic fibre and 100,000 tons per annum special and alloy steel.

Vardhman has evolved through history from a small beginning in 1965 into a modern textile major under the dynamic leadership of its chairman, S.P.Oswal. His vision and insight has given Vardhman an enviable position in the textile industry. Under his leadership, Vardhman is efficiently using resources to innovate, diversify, integrate and build its diverse operations into a dynamic modern enterprise. An Insight into the Vardhman Logo:

The Flame signifies the growth of each and every individual associated with it whether he or she is a worker, an employee, share holder or a customer. The Stick symbolises cotton, which is basic raw material of the core product of Vardhman Group. The V stands for Vardhman Group.

MISSION: Vardhman aims to be world class textile organization producing diverse range of products for the global textile market.Vardhman seeks to achieve customer delight through excellence in manufacturing and customer service based on creative combination of state-of-the-art technology and human resources. Vardhman is committed to be responsible corporate citizen.

PHILOSOPHY: Faith in bright future of Indian textiles and hence continued expansion in areas which we know best. Total customer focus in all operational areas. Product to be of best available quality for premium market segments through TQM and Zero Defect Implementation in all functional areas. Global orientation targeting atleast 20% production for exports. Integrated diversification/product range expansion. World-class manufacturing facilities with most modern R&D and process technology. Faith in individual potential and respect for human values. Encouraging innovation for constant improvements to achieve excellence in all functional areas. Accepting change as a way of life. Appreciating our role as a responsible corporate citizen.

HISTORY The industrial city of Ludhiana, located in the fertile Malwa region of Central Punjab is otherwise known as the "Manchester of India". Within the precincts of this city is located the Corporate headquarters of the Vardhman Group, a household name in Northern India. The Vardhman Group, born in 1965, under the entrepreneurship of Late Lala Rattan Chand Oswal has today blossomed into one of the largest Textile Business houses in India. At its inception, Vardhman had an installed capacity of 14,000 spindles, today; its capacity has increased multifold to over 8 lacs spindles. In 1982 the Group entered the sewing thread market in the country which was a forward integration of the business. Today Vardhman Threads is the second largest producer of sewing thread in India. In 1990, it undertook yet another diversification - this time into the weaving business. The grey fabric weaving unit at Baddi (HP), commissioned in 1990 with a capacity of 20,000 meters per day, has already made its mark as a quality producer of Grey poplin, sheeting, shirting in the domestic as well as foreign market. This was followed by entry into fabric processing by setting up Auro Textiles at Baddi and Vardhman Fabric at Budhni, Madhya Pradesh. Today the group has 900 shuttleless looms and has processing capacity of 90mn meters fabrics/annum. In the year 1999 the Group has added yet another feather to its cap with the setting up of Vardhman Acrylics Ltd., Bharuch (Gujarat) which is a joint venture in Acrylic Fibre production undertaken with Marubeni and Exlan of Japan. The company also has a strong presence in the markets of Japan, Hong Kong, Korea, UK and EU in addition to the domestic market. Adherence to systems and a true dedication to quality has resulted in obtaining the coveted ISO 9002/ ISO 14002 quality award which is the first in Textile industry in India and yet another laurel to its credit.

PORTFOLIO: The group portfolio includes Yarn, Fabrics, Sewing Thread, Fibre and Alloy Steel.

Business Wise Turnover for the financial Year 2010-11

Actual 2010-11

Group Total (Rs crore) USD Million % Share

Yarn Fabric Sewing Thread Steel Power plant Fibre Total

2280 1093 440 435 9 235 4492

500 240 97 95 2 52 986

51% 24% 10% 10% 0.2% 5% 100%

Yarns Yarn Manufacturing is the major activity of the group accounting for 51 percent of the group turnover. Vardhman is virtually a supermarket of yarns, producing the widest range of cotton, synthetics and blended, Grey and Dyed yarns and Hand Knitting Yarns, in which Vardhman is the market leader in India. The group has twenty one production plants with a total capacity of over 8.8 lacs spindles, spread all over the country. In many of the yarn market segments, Vardhman holds the largest market share. Vardhman is also the largest exporters of yarn from India, exporting yarns worth more than USD 282 million.

PERFORMANCE: During the last 16 years, Vardhman Group has recorded 13 percent top line growth rate, which is higher than the industry average growth rate. The Group turnover has grown from Rs 723 crores in 1995 to Rs 4492 crores (about USD 986 million) in 2010-11. The exports has grown from negligible level in early nineties to Rs 1287 crores (USD 282 million) in 2010-11. Financial Indicators Of Vardhman Group (Rs. In Crores) Particulars Group 2010-11 Gross Sales Fob Value Of Exports Profit Before Tax Cash Accrual (PBT + Dep.) Gross Block Net Block Capital Employed 4492.16 1286.79 755.36 1020.03 4415.57 2690.45 5753.88 Group 2009-10 3391.39 751.89 411.32 667.96 4176.40 2598.58 4747.86 Group 2008-09 3186.32 688.67 137.41 380.79 3935.47 2571.33 4555.61 Group 2007-08 2692.93 495.73 204.8 376.74 3460.86 2219.22 3917.86 Group 2006-07 2454.00 482.93 264.73 398.32 2467.71 1386.84 3181.18

7000 6000 5000 4000 3000 2000 1000 0 Gross Sales Fob Value Profit Cash of Exports Before Tax Accrual (PBT + Dep) Gross Block Net Block Capital Employed 2006-07 2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11

PRODUCTS:

Cotton Yarn Organic Cotton Yarn Organic Fair Trade Cotton Yarn Ellitwist Yarn Vortex Yarn Slub Yarn Acrylic Yarn Synthetic blends Synthetic Cotton blends Special Blended Yarn Core Spun Yarn Melanges Gassed Mercerised Yarn Modal Yarn Tencel Yarn Hand Knitting Yarn Speciality Yarn

CUSTOMER FOCUS: At Vardhman, each customer is special and a constant source of inspiration. Therefore, the Group has leveraged technology to develop a highly sensitive response system for addressing customer needs. A high-tech in-house

sampling unit and a design studio enable Vardhman to provide customers with the most innovative products. Vardhman has also implemented Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) System to provide facilities like online tracking of orders.

HUMAN RESOURCES: The human resource development at Vardhman is aimed at enabling people discover their true potential. The company endeavours to provide opportunities to experiment with a strong culture built around talent, team work, competitive spirit, continuous learning, trust and transparency. knowledge dissemination across various The well-designed system to of

levels ensures access

intellectual

capital. The knowledge bank facilitates individual growth and excellence. Vardhman believes that winning leaders are teachers and winning organisations always encourage and reward teaching. The business processes, organisational structure and day to day operating mechanism promote teaching for developing a stream of young leaders. The calibre and professionalism of its people has helped Vardhman achieve and maintain its leadership in the competitive environment of today. The Group has initiated a number of human resource development processes to facilitate consistent improvement in performance, productivity and effectiveness. Vardhman believes in continuous learning and adapting to change as a way of life. Preparing for transformation, the Group has designed elaborate training and

development programmes that encompass the technical, managerial, behavioural and spiritual growth of its employees. Vardhman Training and Development

Centre at Ludhiana, caters to the distinct needs of its employees, where training programmes are conducted throughout the year by in-house and external faculty. Manav Vikas Kendras and Quality Circles are also similar initiatives where trained faculty impart regular training, especially to workmen. Apart from this, managers
8

participate in training at some of the best institutes like the Harvard Business School (USA), Institute of Management Development (Switzerland), ISB and IIMs in India. Vardhman sincerely believes that when technology converges, people will make all the difference.

THE SOCIAL DIMENSION: As a commitment to the society and the workforce, Vardhman has provided

schools for the children, functional residential complexes for employees and working women hostels for single women workers. Numerous recreational activities, sports programmes and cultural events during festivities are regularly organised. Besides these, the Company runs medical camps to meet the health requirements of the people. Sri Aurobindo College of Commerce and Management in Ludhiana and the Aurobindo Public School at Baddi (Himachal Pradesh) are stellar examples of how Vardhman is involved in providing specialised education and improving

competence levels in the society at large. Responding to the call for inclusive growth, Vardhman Group has started a Capability Enhancement Training

Programme for socially under-privileged students on aims at enhancing

regular basis. The training to

the employability of under-privileged students belonging

scheduled castes, scheduled tribes and other backward classes. The Vardhman Group made earnest efforts to increase the income of cotton growing farmers by imparting training to them on various aspects of cotton cultivation through Village Adoption Programme. As a result of these efforts, the cotton productivity of the adopted villages increased manifold and has crossed the national cotton productivity average.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONSCIOUSNESS: Decreasing green belts and ever increasing pollution has become the bane of modernization. Vardhman has always made a conscious effort not only to preserve the environment around us but also to contribute its mite towards building a better world. A corollary of this consciousness is visible in the best pollution control devices and practices. Vardhman has also increased green cover across all manufacturing units. Going further, Vardhman group actively pioneered the setting up of Nimbua Greenfield Punjab Limited, a company dedicated to solid waste treatment, storage and disposal in the State of Punjab, India.

10

VARDHMAN SPINNING & GENERAL MILLS LTD. (LUDHIANA) VSGML

This unit was installed in august 1965 with 12000 spindles and as on date the number of spindles has increased to 59728 indulged in the manufacturing processes like spinning, worst & knitting yarn. Here acrylic woolen, dyed yarn and worsted yarn is manufactured. The yarn of this unit is widely accepted in the market and is exported to various countries in the world. Cotton Spinning, Worsted

Manufacturing activity

Spinning, Dyeing 24,496 spindles Domestic: Gurgaon; Orient Soma Crafts Ltd.,

Production activity

Textiles;

Raymonds; Arvind; V and S; Major customers Matrix; Richa Global Ltd. etc. Export: Hansole, Korea; Ecolex, Bangladesh; Chauri, Japan etc. Yarn Count Spun Quantity of Cotton Consumed/day Quantity of Manmade Fibres Consumed/day Average Ring Frame Utilisation/Day 20s, 28s, 30s, 34s, 37s 20 tonnes 7 tonnes 97.10% Vardhman Spinning and General Mills Ltd.,Chandigarh Road,Near Address Samrala Chowk, Ludhiana 141010, Punjab.

11

VSGML AS A TEAM:

VSGML has various operations with in itself. Following are the departments, which helps in achieving the set objectives of VSGML: 1) Production 2) Engineering 3) Maintenance 4) Research & Development 5) Training 6) Costing & MIS 7) Materials & Stores 8) Industrial Relations 9) Personnel & Administration

12

QUALITY MANAGEMENT TECHNIQUES

At Vardhaman Spinning and General Mills, Ludhiana, quality management techniques are given a lot of credit and are followed religiously. One of the major quality management techniques followed by them is Total Productive Maintenance (TPM). Total Productive Maintenance is a maintenance program which involves maintaining plants and equipment. The goal of the TPM program is to markedly increase production while, at the same time, increasing employee morale and job satisfaction. TPM brings maintenance into focus as a necessary and vitally important part of the business. Down time for maintenance is scheduled as a part of the manufacturing day and, in some cases, as an integral part of the manufacturing process. The goal is to hold emergency and unscheduled maintenance to a minimum. TPM starts with 5S. Problems cannot be clearly seen when the work place is unorganized. Cleaning and organizing the workplace helps the team to uncover problems. Making problems visible is the first step of improvement.

Japanese Term Seiri Seiton Seiso Seiketsu Shitsuke

English Translation Organisation Tidiness Cleaning Standardisation Discipline

Equivalent 'S' term Sort Systematise Sweep Standardise Self - Discipline

13

Total Productive Maintenance instructions and methods have been put up in the factory to increase awareness

KAIZEN
"Kai" means change, and "Zen" means good ( for the better ). Basically kaizen is for small improvements, but carried out on a continual basis and involve all people in the organization. Kaizen is opposite to big spectacular innovations. Kaizen requires no or little investment. By using a detailed and thorough procedure we eliminate losses in a systematic method using various Kaizen tools. These activities are not limited to production areas and can be implemented in administrative areas as well. In the organization, workers are encouraged to come up with new techniques or solutions for problems or methods which have a better efficiency to eliminate losses. The method along with the result and the name of the employee who has suggested the change are put up next to the machine or department where it is to be implemented. This motivates the employees to use the various Kaizen tools more.
14

ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE

Chief Managing Director MR. S.P. OSWAL

Executive Director MR. SACHIT JAIN Vice-President (Commercial & Administration) Chief Manager Executive, Officers & Staff Managers (Accounts/HR/Costi ng/Commercial) Executive, Officers & Staff Asst. Vice President (Engineering) MR. DHEERAJ MEHTA Vice President (Production) MR.VINEET PANDEY Senior Manager (Spinning 1 & Spinning 2) MR. VASANT BISEN Executive, Officers & Staff Manager (Dye House) MR. ATUL VERMA Executive, Officers & Staff Production Supervisors

Chief Manager (Worsted) MR. J.S. REKHI

Executive, Officers & Staff

Production Supervisors

Production Supervisors

Workmen

Workmen

Workmen

15

ASSIGNMENT- 1

16

PROCESS FLOW OF COTTON SPINNING

Opening & Sorting

Mixing

Blowroom

Carding

Pre-Combing

Combing

Draw Frame

Speed Frame

Ring Frame

Winding

Conditioning

Packing
17

BLOWROOM
OPENING, SORTING AND MIXING
This process involves opening of fibre bales and opening tufts of cotton into smaller tufts and removal of foreign materials. Mixing and sorting is done to: Reduce the cost of raw materials Have a uniform distribution of different types of cotton Moisturise the cotton and allow them to open up While mixing, it should be considered that fibres should have identical properties like length, strength etc. Price, colour and grade of cotton should be of approximately same quality. Optimum amount of different varieties should be mixed to keep the quality up to the mark. Soft waste should be added as per requirement. Mixing: The material from the compressed bales are torn into small flocks manually and stored into the mixing room for 12 hours. Meanwhile, the fibres absorb the moisture from the air and get conditioned. Oil and water are sometimes used in the mixing room and they are sprayed on the mixed lot. The mixture helps to moisturise the material and reduce the fly and fluff in the mixing room. Sorting: It is the procedure in which the compressed bales are broken into small tufts which is done manually. Contaminations are sorted out in this process.

18

Technical Specifications for Cotton i. ii. J-34 (70%) S-6 (30%)

Cotton Varieties Used Bale Size Bale Weight

25 x 17 x 49 165-170kg

Cotton Varieties Parameters Parameters Staple Length (mm) Strength (gm/tex) Elongation (%) Micronnaire Reflection Degree (Rd) Brightness (B) J-34 28-29 30-31 5.1-5.2 4.8-5.0 72-76 8-9 S-6 29-30 30-31 5.2-5.3 3.8-4.2 76-80 8-9

Technical Specifications for Polyester Bale Size Bale Weight Length of Fibre Count of Fibre Lustre 39 x 25 x 49 400 kg 44mm 1.2 Dtex Bright

Technical Specifications for Acrylic Bale Size Bale Weight Length of Fibre Count of Fibre Lustre 40 x 24 x 46 300-350 kg 40mm 1.3 Dtex Bright

19

Godowns Within The Mills: SR. NO. GODOWN LENGTH NO. (in ft) WIDTH (in ft.) AREA (in sq. Ft.) 1 114 160 85 13600 Acrylic Fiber, Nylon Fiber, Polyester Fiber 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 67A 105 55 33 35 105A 66 66A 37 63 64 36 100 100 75.2 80 75 100 60 43 66 66 66 152 60 60 60 90 80 60 42 50 44 47 47 45 6000 6000 4512 7200 6000 6000 2520 2150 2904 3102 3102 6840 Acrylic Tow Acrylic Tow & Fiber All Types of Filament Yarns Raw Cotton Raw Cotton Grey Yarn Grey Yarn Grey Yarn Grey Yarn Grey Yarn Grey Yarn All types of waste MATERIAL STORAGE

SR. NO. 1

GODOWN NO.

LENGTH (in ft.)

WIDTH (in ft.) 92

AREA (in MATERIAL STORED sq. Ft.) 8740 Raw Cotton

S.T.-II Godowns 95 (A)

S.T.-II Godowns 95 (B)

92

8740

Raw Cotton

S.T.-II Godowns 95 (C)

92

8740

Raw Cotton

S.T.-II Godowns 59 (D)

47.5

2805

Raw Cotton

20

In the blowroom, input is being fed in the form of cotton bales and the output appears in the form of flocks. The main function of blow room is the opening, cleaning and mixing of bale. The main identifiable impurities are being removed by the machines at the farming stage, the process is called ginning. Ginning process removes the main impurities like seed coats, hair, stones, plastic, jute, cords etc. After ginning cotton bales are formed in the compressed form. Each bale weighs approx 170 kg. Sometimes, imported bales weigh even up to 300 kg. The blow room of UNIT-I consists of 2 lines: Line-I and Line-II. Each line is formed by the laydown of bales in the form of stack one over another, approximately 50 in number. Mixing can also be done at this stage by creating a laydown which consists of two or more varieties, in the approximate ratios, according to the end-product requirement.

Blowroom: Laydown of cotton bales before mixing and sorting 21

Machines used:

UNIFLOCK

CONDENSER

MAXI FLOW

HEAVY PARTICLE SEPARATERASTA

MPM

CVT-3

SECUROMAT
C-4 CARD DK CARD

22

Unifloc A-10 Manufacturer: RIETER This machine is used pluck the flocks out of the laid down bales, basically with the help of suction. It consists of a take-up unit which is connected by vacuum. It has 2 types of rollers: 1 beater roller and 2 stripper roller. The 2 stripper rollers consist of metallic blades on its surface, which penetrate inside the bales for better grip on both the sides. In between are the main rollers i.e. the beater rollers, which again have got spikes on its surface. Its main function is to open the compressed bales and pluck out the fibers, so that they can be sucked by the pneumatic action. Traversal speed of take - up unit = 10.5m/min Capacity of the machine = 1000kg/hr In addition, the workers also pick the noticeable trash by hand like: hair, jute, plastic, paper, stones etc. they also open the bunch of fibres manually.

Sorting and Mixing done by the Unifloc Machine. 23

TRANSPORTATION PIPES: The flocks plucked in Uniflock through chute-feed system,(the pipes utilize pneumatic action to pass on the plucked fibres) get more opened, while travelling through the duct. In between there is also a metal detector which detects the presence of any metal pieces inside the flocks and the damper diverts it into the waste bag. The ducts/pipes have been given colour coding: Diameter Colour Code Function of Pipeline of Pipes (mm) Green Material Transportation 2 Blue 300 In all machines (Blowroom and Card) Location

Sr. No 1

Waste Transportation 220,300,55 MFC, CVT-3, Comber 0

Yellow

Microdust Transportation

300

LVSA, CVT-3, SP-F, Card

Red

Fire Diversion

300

MFC, MPM,SP-F, Card

In case of spark inside the FBK pipes due to friction/metal particles, the entire material inside the ducts is diverted outside the unit for preventing the fibre from spreading.

CONDENSER: Manufacturer : Trutzschler Once the material has been passed through the metal detector, it goes to the Condenser where the heavy particles are sucked and they fall down. Thus, in this way the material is further cleaned.

24

MAXI FLOW: Manufacturer : Trutzschler The material is dropped in the machine by gravity through the Condenser and advances with the beater action. The dust and contamination is separated and falls down. The material is removed from the maxi flow with the help of suction from the maxi machines.

SEPARATOR: Manufacturer : Trutzschler Heavy Particle Separator is a simple equipment working on aero-dynamics principle. The machine removes contaminations in the mixing such as metal parts and other heavy impurities which may otherwise cause damage to expensive blow room and carding machinery.

Asta: Heavy particles are separated in this machine before they go to MPM-4 and MPM-6.

25

MPM: Manufacturer : Trutzschler The multi-mixer ensures a good blending at the beginning of the spinning process which is essential for a uniform distribution and representation of all fibre components into the yarn cross-section. This needs to be achieved during the spinning processes as it cannot be achieved by the later processes alone. Proper blending avoids variation in running conditions, yarn strength, uniformity and dye take-up. The multi-mixer is usually available in 4, 6 or 8 chambers. In Vardhaman, there were two lines one containing the 6 chamber MPM and the other containing an 8 chamber MPM.

CVT-3 Manufacturer: Trutzschler This is another machine which is used for cleaning of the material. First of all, the feed roller feeds the material inside the machine. Then it passes through three spikes beater of increasing spike intensity, which carries out the opening. It has a color contamination sorter (CCS). Width of the machine :1600mm Capacity: 600- 800 kg/hr

26

SECUROMAT: Manufacturer : Trutzschler Foreign fibre detection takes place at the end of the blowroom line and directly before the cards, where the opening degree of the fibres has reached a maximum value, the foreign parts, however, are still existing in a coherent form. The separation of the foreign parts is effected by means of 32 compressed air nozzles (10) distributed over the total working width of 1600 mm, which can be individually controlled by pneumatic valves, in fact exactly at the point where a foreign part is located on the surface of the needle roll.

27

CARDING

Manufacturer: Lakshmi Rieter No. Machines: 10 Manufacturer: Trutzschler The carding process essentially involves the opening of fibre aggregates by working between two closely spaced surfaces covered with inclined wires. The main objects of carding are: To carry further process of fibres opening to a state of fibre individualization To remove neps, tiny lumps of fibres To deliver a continuous sliver for further processes. To remove impurities from the material by individual fibre separation. To enable parallelization of fibres. The carding machine is supplied with cotton flocks through FBK ducts continuously. The cotton then traverses through the rollers. The material is fed inside with the help of feed roller which is located above the feed plate. The feed roller is followed by the licker-in cylinder. There is a licker-in undercasing and back plate below and in front of the rollers respectively. Undercasing is a perforated plate which is responsible for collection of the waste removal from the card. Back plate is positioned between the licker-in and cylinder. Front plate is positioned between cylinder and the doffer. Both have spikes and perform the same function as that of the set of cylinder and flats. Flats are clothing on the rollers which is in the form of spiked belt. There are 102 flats of which about 42 are in working position at time of contact with cylinder. Cylinder moves very fast as compared to the flats. Due to this movement, the best fibres are straightened, made parallel and opening and cleaning is performed. The back plate and front plate reduces the loading on the cylinder. The voids between the cylinder, licker-in and cylinder, doffer are thus covered by front and back plates.
28

The cylinder is having the main function of opening and cleaning the fibres. The main function of the doffer is to collect the fibres from the cylinder and deliver them in the form of a web. The function of the licker-in is breaking and opening of the tufts of cotton and pass them onto the cylinder without retaining any of them. To get optimum performance from the various elements of a card, it is essential to use the right type and right combination of wire clothing. The metallic wire particulars which could influence the carding process are: wire width, wire point density, tooth angle, shape and height. Carding performance can be improved by increasing the number of teeth cross wise along the width of the card. This has led to the development of finer rib wires. The doffer is clothed with a wire which has a higher trapping and holding power than the cylinder wire. Thus it has a greater point density than cylinder wire.

Carding Machine 29

Machine Specifications Cylinder Speed Licker-in Speed Doffer Speed Flat Speed Cylinder Diameter Licker-in Diameter Doffer Diameter Can Diameter Can Height 450-500 rpm 1100-1200 rpm 25-30 rpm 22-25 cm/min 1290 mm 250 mm 500 mm 24 42

Technical Specifications Linear Density of Lap Fed Rate of Feed Length of Sliver/Can Weight of Sliver/Can Linear Density of Sliver Production/min Production/hour Production (kg/hr) 400 gm/m 500 gm/min 5500 m 26 kg 4.8 gm/m 85 m/min 5100 m/hr 25 kg/hr

30

CARDING EFFICIENCY AND BREAKAGE MONITORING DK 780 Card Efficiency Date Morning 7/12/11 8/12/11 9/12/11 10/12/11 11/12/11 12/12/11 13/12/11 14/12/11 15/12/11 72 99 98 86 82 88 76 80 46 Shift (%) Evening 85 96 97 98 96 97 97 62 95 Night 97 96 94 96 99 97 83 94 98

C- 4 Card Efficiency Date Morning 7/12/11 8/12/11 9/12/11 10/12/11 11/12/11 12/12/11 13/12/11 14/12/11 15/12/11 56 98 93 66 92 89 74 76 37 Shift (%) Evening 96 96 95 93 93 70 94 90 88 Night 95 85 95 89 90 95 93 98 98

As observed in the above tables, the maximum efficiency is in the night shifts.

31

PRE-COMBING

Within the overall spinning process, the combing operation serves to improve the raw material. Its use in the production of medium, medium fine and fine yarns enables a positive effect to be exerted primarily on the following yarn characteristics: Yarn evenness Yarn strength Cleanliness Smoothness Visual appearance Elimination of short fibres produces an improvement mainly in the staple length of the fibre, but it also affects the fineness of the raw material. Since noil is on average finer than the original raw material, the micronnaire value of the combed sliver is slightly higher than that of the feed stock. The various machines used are: Sliver Lap Machine Manufacturer: Lakshmi It is the preparatory process for combing. The basic purpose of this machine is to mix different card can slivers, for homogeneous mixing to ensure uniformity among the fibers. It is used to convert the leading hooks into trailing hooks. It also eliminates wastes. Drafting arrangement 4/6

32

Machine specifications: Linear Density of Sliver Fed Rate of Feed Weight of Lap Delivered Weight of Bobbin Net Weight of Material Length of Lap Linear Density of the Lap Time taken for one Lap Delivery Speed Delivery in gm/min Production in kg/hr 4.8 gm/m 75-120 gm/min 10.45 kg 1.25 kg 9.2 kg 150 m 61.33 gm/m 150 seconds 60 m/min 3679.8 gm/min 220.74g/hr

Ribbon Lap Machine Manufacturer : Laxmi It the second step in the pre-combing process. In this machine the fibers are evened out.

Production of ribbon laps

Unilap machine This machine performs the combined function of sliver lap and ribbon lap. Its major advantage is that it takes less time than the two machines combined.
33

COMBING

Manufacturer: Lakshmi Rieter Model: E7/4 Number of Machines: 9 The main objectives are: Elimination of short fibres Elimination of remaining impurities Elimination of large proportion of neps Straight and parallelization of fibres The input of this machine is 8 laps. The waste of coming is termed as noil . The lap is passed through a top comb which has got 26 needles or pins per cm. The function of this top comb is to catch the short fibres out of the lap. It is followed by another brush roller which consists of plastic bristles on its surface to catch the fibres flying around. After the combing action, the laps pass through three sets of rollers, of which top ones are covered with rubber and bottom ones are made of steel. The material then passes through a condenser acting as a guide and calendar roller to form a sliver. Top clearer is present in the machine to take care of the fly being generated.

Machine Specifications: Number of Heads Length of Machine Width of Machine Loading of Rollers Can Diameter Can Height 8 5.169 m 1.318 m Pneumatically 18 40

34

Technical Specifications: Noil Percentage Feed Lap Weight Feed Lap Width Feed Lap Diameter (max) Delivery Speed Length of Sliver in One Can Time Taken for One Can Output/Machine Nips/min 8-25% 62.5 gm/m 300 mm 450 mm 32 m/min 4000 m 125 minutes 16-40kg/hr 300

Combing Machine

35

COMBER PRODUCTION MONITORING Year 2006-07 2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 Average Production (kgs) 7925 7304 7205 7130

COMBER PRODUCTION MONITORING

8000 7828 7500 7150 7000 6650 6650 6500 6200 6000 6200 6000 Average Production 7000 7612 7565 7200

5500

Average production for the year 2010-11 is 6947kgs. It is observed that the production per year has been decreasing every year.

36

DRAW FRAME
Manufacturer: Lakshmi Manufacturer: RIETER The main objectives are; Parallelization and equalization of fibres. Doubling Blending Removal of hooks Reducing the co efficient of variation among the fibres

There are two types of drawframes: Single head: in which one can is formed from doubling of 6 slivers. Double head: in which two cans are formed. Each can is from doubling of six slivers.

Main features of RSB drawframe are: It is equipped with automatic can changer system. It features an autoleveller. A particular fineness value for the sliver is being set in the machine. Variation of (1-5) % from the reference value, for a set time, say 3 sec, is sensed by the displacement sensor. The sensor converts this variation into the pulse form at sends the signal to control the feed accordingly. If the thickness is increased, feed is reduced and vice-versa It is equipped with top and bottom stripper for cleaning top and bottom roller.

37

Machine Specifications: LDO/6 Number of Deliveries Can Changing System Roller Weighing Calendar Rollers Weighing Can Diameter Can Height Top Roller Diameter Calendar Roller Diameter 2 Automatic Pneumatic Pneumatic 18 40 38.2 mm 62 mm

RSB 851 Delivery Speed Rate of Feed Top Roller Diameter Can Changing System Delivered Sliver Weight 250-750 m/min 20-50 gm/min 39.2 mm Automatic 4.8-4.92 gm/m

Comparison between RSB 851 and LDO/6 S. No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

parameter Number of Deliveries Can Changer Creel Driving Delivery Speed (max) Creel Capacity Number of Doublings

RSB 851 Single Automatic negative 800 m/min 8 8

LDO/6 Double Automatic Positive 500 m/min 16 8

38

SPEED FRAME (Simplex)

Model no. LF-1400 A Manufacturer Lakshmi (LMW) The speed frame performs three major functions: Drafting: it is the process where the sliver is attenuated by means of exerting a pull on it with sets of rollers. This process ensures that the sliver increases in length and the mass per unit length is decreased. Twisting: it is the process where the attenuated sliver is given rotational twists by means of the rotatory movement of the spindle Roving: it is the output of the speed frame. It takes a highly reduced thickness (mass per unit length) in comparison of the sliver. The roving is stored on bobbins and these forms the feed package for the ring frame. The existence of the speed frame is justified by the fact that the sliver cannot be fed directly to the ring frame, firstly due to the very high draft requirement at ring frame and secondly, due to the very large space requirement in ring frame section. Therefore, the need for the speed frame is to impart draft to the sliver to prepare it for the ring frame and twist to provide strength to roving. Main parts of speed frame: Creel Here, the cams carrying the D.F. sliver are being placed. The function of creel is to let the sliver reach the drafting zone, without any obstruction the drafting zone, without any obstruction. The drafting zone, without any obstruction, the main parts of creel are as follows: Creel rollers: it consists of sliver guides, which rotate with the help of creel roller. Sliver guide: sliver guide shouldnt be worn out so that the sliver doesnt get abraised due to friction.

39

 Drafting zone this is the main portion of the machine, where the thick sliver is converted into thinner one by applying appropriate draft. Its main parts are as follows: Sliver guide: the sliver from the creel reaches first to the sliver guide of the drafting zone. This guide is located on a traverse plate. Its size and color varies acc. To the sliver hank. The guide shouldnt be worn out and no cotton fibres should be trapped in between. Bottom drafting rollers: there are three rollers made of steel arranged at equal distances according to the length of the machine: 1. 2. 3. front bottom roller middle bottom roller back bottom roller

All the other parts of the machine which are required to provide draft to the sliver, rotate with the help of these rollers.

Nosebar plate and spacer In between the front and middle bottom roller, lies a plate which is called nosebar plate. On this plate lies a square shaped piece made of Al, which is called spacer. The size of the spacer varies according to the roving hank. Its size no.(in mm) is mentioned over its surface itself. This spacer decided the gap between the 2 aprons. In a machine, all the spaces should be of equal size and any roving should not be made without spaces, as it would affect the quantity of the roving Bottom and top apron Bottom apron runs between bottom roller, nosebar plate and tension pulley. The tension pulley provides proper tension to the apron. In between these two aprons, the sliver, after drafting, forms the roving. That is why, it is very important that the aprons should not be worm out or loose. They should be cleared up, time to time. So that they could run without any obstruction, otherwise the no. of breakages can increase and the quality can deteriorate. Top arm The arm placed over the bottom rollers is called top arm, which consists of 3 rollers: front pair, back pair and cradle rollers. The top arm presses the top rollers over the bottom ones, then pneumatic pressure
40

because of which the slivers, after passing through the drafting zone, take the form of roving. The top arm should be cleaned regularly for good quantity. Spindle parts Spindle: spindles are positioned in front of the top arm on a rail. Spindles are run through gear mechanism. Bobbin and flyer are placed on the spindle. To rotate the bobbin separately, the bobbin rail also consists of gears. The bobbin rail move up and down through building motion because of which the roving gets wound over the bobbin. Flyer: the part which helps to wind the roving over the bobbin is call flyer. A twist master is placed over it, which helps in imparting twist to the roving, which comes from the drafting zone. There is a finger on one side of the flyer which keeps the roving under pressure while it is being wound over the bobbin. Separator: the steel plate lying between drafting zone and flyer is termed as separator, which prevents the mingling of broken roving with the ones, nearby. Machine shouldnt be run when separator is down position. Gearing parts: gears are placed on the right side of the machine, which are responsible for providing necessary motion to the different necessary motion to the different parts of the machine. Fan: it is placed on the left side of the machine. There is a separate motor for running the fan. Below each delivery lies a suction pipe, whose other end goes to the suction duct. Inside the duct, there are 2 photocells. Because of the fan, suction is generated in the whole duct. Because of which broken roving gets sucked inside. The moment, this roving passes in between the 2 photocells, the machine stops automatically. The waste of the fan must be cleaned time to time.

41

Simplex Machine

FAULTS OCURRING IN SPEED FRAME The main faults that occurs in the output of speed frame are as follows A. Double roving: when, one roving breaks and clings to the surrounding roving, while the machine is in running position. Reasons: Less amount of pressure in the suction tube. The suction tube gets clogged because of cotton fluff Separator is not positioned correctly

42

B. Cuts in the roving: Reasons: Cuts in the sliver during drawframe only Incorrect pressure of the top arm. Rubber of top roller is having cuts or worn out Worn out apron Worn out twist master and flyer finger.

C. Undrafted roving: Reasons: Less pressure from top arm Incorrect setting of temperature and humidity Incorrect setting of break draft, gauge, spacer etc. according to the required count.

Hard bobbin: Reasons: Less pressure on back rollers therefore thick roving high tension on the roving more twist in the roving than the required amount

D. Soft bobbin: Reasons: less tension in the roving less twist in the roving than the required amount

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E. Flied and fluffed bobbin; Reasons: in calculation of fly and fluff from the surroundings into the roving uncovered draw frame cans not cleaning the racks and trolleys where bobbin are to be placed

F. Stained bobbin: Reasons: not cleaning the grease or oil on the machine during maintenance cleaning uncleaned hands of the workers dropping the bobbins on the floor

Machine Specifications: Number of Spindles Bobbin Length Bobbin Diameter Flyer Speed (max.) Delivery Speed (max.) Full Bobbin Weight (max.) Drafting System 120 32 cm 4.8 cm 1400 rpm 30 m/min 3 kg 3/3

Technical Specifications: Linear Density of Sliver Fed Delivery Speed Length of Roving on one Bobbin Production/hour/spindle Production in kg/hour/spindle Waste Percentage TPI 4.8 gm/m 18 m/min 2000 m 1080 m/hr 0.772 kg 1% 0.96
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RING FRAME

Manufacturer: Lakshmi Reiter Model: DJ/5 Number of Machines: 24

In the Ring Frame department, yarns of required count are made from the bobbins. Here, draft is being provided with the help of rollers and then twist is being imparted with the help of spindle wound, side by side. So, the yarns made by this method are wound on the ring bobbin. Parts of a Ring Frame Machine are as follows: Creel this is the top most part of the machine where the speed frame bobbin is mounted. The various parts of the creel are : Bobbin holder: on the bobbin holder, the simple bobbin holder, the simple bobbin is mounted. It is denoted that the bobbin is mounted properly and the holder is not clogged. If it is so, the roving will not be fed properly and there might be some tension which can cause breakage and neps formation. Creel rod: it is present between the drafting and the bobbin holder. It acts as a guide for carrying the roving. Roving should always come from above the guide rod. Drafting Zone This is the most important Zone of the machine. Here the roving is stretched to from the yarn. Its various parts are : Roving guide: it is used to guide the roving to the centre of the roving might move outside the roller surfaces and generate waste. It is mounted near the back roller. Bottom rolls: the machine has three bottom rolls. On top of the set of bottom rolls, there is the top arm. The top arm also has 3 rollers and a cradle. The cradle has spacers.

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 Bottom apron & Top apron: bottom apron is mounted on the middle roller and cradle of the bottom roller set. Top apron is mounted on the middle roller and cradle of the top arm. On these aprons, the roving thread opens up to take the form of final yarn.

Spindle Zone Spindle: This is an important part of the machine which rotates with the help of the spindle tape. This always rotates in the centre of the ring and the bobbin is lifted on it. If the spindle tape is not tightly, attached the spindle may stop. Ring and Ring Traveller: it is a metallic ring on which the traveller holds the yarn and moves along the periphery. The spindle moves up and down and hence the bobbin gets filled. Laput hook and laput rail: before the thread gets wound on the bobbin it passes through the laput hook. It should have a proper gauge. Gearing Zone this has all the gears and wheels which need to be oiled and maintained. This area should always be kept covered to prevent the entry of fluff. Fan Zone this zone consists of the main motor and the fan. Because of the rotation of the fan at a high speed, suction is generated and waste is sucked, which gets collected in the waste box. When this box gets filled completely, all the waste should be taken out from the box and it should be cleaned so as to avoid any chance of jamming in the fan and parts malfunctioning. Jockey Pulley and Drum Pulley Zone the setting of the jockey pulley should be correct, otherwise the tape bar would become out of track. It should not get jammed, so it is cleaned from time to time. Overhead Blower Zone the pressure with which the blower throws the air should not be blocked with fluff and they should be properly set, otherwise it would affect the quality.

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Different Colour Bobbins and Their Importance: In ring frame, bobbins of different colors are used like: red, yellow, blue, white etc. the color of bobbin varies according to the count of yarn. While the production with bobbins of one color is going on, the bobbins of other colors should be used, otherwise the mixing of various varieties will occur and quality will get deteriorated. The weight of speed frame bobbin varies from 1- 1.5 kg, while that of ring frame varies from 60 65 gm.

Ring Frame

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Main Faults That Occur In Ring Frame: A. BOBBIN FAULTS: (i) Ring cut and black bobbin: Sometimes, the thread gets cut by the ring and sometimes it gets cut by the ring and sometimes it gets blackened because of the ring. The main reasons of its occurrence are: Improper setting of bobbin over the spindle because of the accumulation of hard waste over the spindle Occurrence of double roving in the speed frame bobbin Slight displacement of ring of ring rail. (ii) Bottom spoiled bobbin: if the yarn in the bobbin comes out from the bobbin and gets entangled then it is called bottom spoiled bobbin. Its main reasons are as follows. Improper setting of spindle Improper setting of bobbin on spindle due to carelessness Improper setting of bobbin on spindle due to tight bottom portion of the

bobbin Improper setting of the reel rail

(iii) Over filled bobbins: if the yarn from the upper position of the bobbin gets entangled, then it is called over filled bobbins. Reasons: Using small bobbin than the required size. The machine still keeps on running even when doff has been achieved.

(iv) Soft bobbin: less twist in the yarn because of rotation of lower speed due to any

reason. Less tension of traveler acc. to the count.

(v) stained bobbin : reason : not wiping off the oil & grease. Uncleaned hands of the worker.

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B. YARN FAULTS: (i) Double roving: Mingling of broken roving with the neighbouring rovings of the creel. Malfunctioning of suction tube because of blockage due fluff.

(ii) Weak yarn: Occurrence of single roving in the speed frame bobbin. Loose tape Cut tape

(iii) Yarn with fluff: Inculcation of fluff from the environment into the yarn. Improper cleaning of the drafting zone & other parts. Dirty speed frame can/drum. Uncovered drums/cans. Malfunctioning of overhead blowers.

(iv) Yarn slub: yarn should be uniform in diameter. But at some places, the yarn become fuller, where twist becomes less and the strength of the yarn reduces; which is called slub. Improper pressure from the top arm. Apron which is being cut. Improper setting of the spacer.

(v) Neppy yarn: In the blow room, due to the formation of bunches of fibres which occur on the surface, this defect arises. To regulate this, care is taken at blowroom, carding and combing department. (vi) Yarn with thick and thin places: the yarn thickness should be uniform everywhere, but when thick & thin places arise in the yarn, with the length varying from 8-10 mm, then such a yarn is called defected. These defects are measured by uster machine per Km. eg. + 50% thick place means that the thickness of the fault is 50% more than the actual thickness. Similarly, -50% thin places imply that the fault is 50 % less than the actual thickness of the yarn. The yarn with the thin place has comparatively lesser strength.

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(vii)

So, it can break and create more waste and effect the production &

quality adversely. Its main reasons are as follows : Improper pressure of the top rollers. Apron being cut or dented. Improper setting of the top arm. Incompatible size of spaces in relation to the count. Draft applied is not in accordance with the count.

The yarn realisation of the cotton fibres comes approximately 87 kg for carded yarns and approximately 70 kg for combed yarns. This is so as the combing process removes the short fibres. The noil % (waste removal %) for the combing process is around 17%. The bobbins from the ring frame m/c are collected in containers after their doffing point has reached. In each container, a doff slip is put. This slip is important as it contains the following details: Spindle no. Machine no. Count Time Date Name

This is important as the person loading the bobbins for identifiable faults. Also they are important for count identification. After this, the trolleys are sent to the Autoconer Machines. This has the function of forming bigger packages in the form of cones which can be used for doubling and then twisting on the T.F.O.

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Machine Specifications: Spindle Height Spindle Diameter at Top Spindle Diameter at Bottom Distance Between Two Spindles Length of Separators Number of Spindles Per Ring Frame Spindle Speed (max.) Delivery Speed TPI 240 mm 11 mm 15 mm 70 mm 140 mm 448 18000 rpm 18 m/min 21.06/19.58

Production till 11/12/11 for the year 2011 (Tonnes) Ring Frame Production Ring Frame Utilization(%) 11.56 93.42

Manpower/Shift

84.01 84.01

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Ring Frame Production/Month(Tonnes) 2011-12

16 14 12 11.7 10 8 6 4 2 0 January February April May June July August Ring Frame Production 12.6 11.9 13.4 13.9 14.2

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WINDING SECTION

Yarn produced in the ring frame in the form of bobbins is taken into the winding section for the formation of large package which is easily transported and various faults are removed during the winding operation such as thick places, thin places and neps. After winding, the package should not contain the faults. The strength, elongation at break point and appearance should not be altered and the quality of splicing should be good. The weight of the cone produced is 2.05 2.45 kg and 1.25 kg as per demand. Manufacturer: Schalfhorst Model: 338 Number of Machines: 4

Autoconer: For bigger yarn packages 53

The bobbins are attached on the spools and when the bobbins get exhausted, new bobbin is attached manually after every bobbin change, splicing is done by the machine for the identification of the counts of yarns. The machine follows the following detection mechanism: Electronic sensors which detect the yarn breakage and stop the

machine. This is done through capacitors.

Machine Specifications: Number of Drums on the Machine Number of Bobbins on the Creel Distance Between Two Spindles Drum Speed Splicing Magazine Capacity 60 5 13 1300-1600 m/min Pneumatic 6

Inspection of cone in the Autoconer

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Yarn Realization: Carded (%) 2011-12

88.2 88 87.8 87.6 87.4 87.2 87 86.8 86.6 86.4 January February April May June July August 87.05 87.07 Yarn Realization 87.93 88.1 88 87.74

Yarn Realization: Combed (%) 2011-12

71.1 71 70.9 70.8 70.7 70.6 70.5 70.4 January February April May June July August 70.66 70.68 70.89 70.8 Yarn Realization 70.67 71

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Average Yarn Count 2011-12

30 29.5 29 28.5 28 27.5 27 26.5 January February April May June July August 28.2 27.7 Yarn Count 29.68 29.3 28.87 28.92

In this section the cones are kept under UV Light for inspection. This is one of the steps in detecting any yarn faults and difference in colour of the grey yarn.

Inspection of cones under UV light

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CONDITIONING
In VSGML, conditioning of the cones is done manually, i.e., room conditioning. The moisture percent in the cotton yarns comes out to be 7.4%. The material after conditioning remains for 15-20 minutes outside the conditioning room and final packaging is done in cartons or pallets according to the requirement. To avoid the loss of moisture from the cones, two humidifiers are provided in the packing room. Because of these humidifiers, there is an additional gain of moisture in the yarns on the cones. Increase in the moisture content of the yarn increases the yarn realization; therefore, the conditioning of the yarns is necessary. Following are the main objectives of conditioning: Imparting strength to the yarn Imparting uniformity to the yarn Imparting evenness to the yarn Increasing the moisture content in the yarn Increasing the yarn realization

Conditioning room for yarn where sprinklers impart moisture before the cones undergo conditioning in the Xorella Machine.

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Xorella Machine: A set of cones are put in the machine for moisture regaining

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PACKING SECTION

According to the requirement of the buyer, the yarn package is made as cone or cheese form. Further the yarn packages are packed in the following ways: Palette Packing: This is done on reusable palettes which are wooden stands on which the cones are kept in layers. After each layer of cones a cardboard is placed on which further cones is placed. The total weight of the palette is approximately 750 kg. This palette packing is more cost effective as the cost incurred is only of the cardboard sheets and plastic sheets. The following description is mentioned on each palette. Count Lot no. Net weight Gross Weight Excise no. Date

Palette Packing

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 Carton Packing: The cones can be packed in cartons. The following description is mentioned on each carton. Description Count Ne Excise no. Carton no. Gross weight Net weight Lot no.

The carton packing is less cost effective as the cartons are not reusable

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PROCESS FLOW OF WORSTED SPINNING

A variety of fibers, depending upon the output, are mixed so as to make them uniform. Sandwich laydown takes place wherein a 60:40 ratio of regular and high bulk fiber is laid. Mixing (Laydown)

Input: Small bale tuft, Output: Open fiber tuft

Willowing

Carding

Separation of each and every fiber Sliver preparation Input: Open sliver tuft, Output: Card Sliver

Levelling (Gill Box)

Increasing uniformity of fibers Parallelising the fibers

Simplex Machine

Input: Uniform Sliver, Output: Roving

Ring Frame

The draft is made according to the count of roving Yarn is made out of roving.

Removal of unwanted deformities of yarn and converting the ring frame yarn into a bigger package
Autoconer

Cheese Winding

For plied yarns

Two For One twister where plied yarns are twisted in order to achieve the output.
TFO

Either the yarn is packed after this or it is sent to the dyeing house in the form of hanks.
Reeling

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WILLOWING

Number of machines: 1 Manmade fibres do not require any cleaning so they are directly made into cards from their fibre tufts. The primary purpose of the willowing machine is to open up the fibre tufts into smaller tufts and to mix up various kinds of fibres. This opening is accomplished by passing the material between two beaters. After this, material is transported to the cards through a network of pipes. Unlike the cotton spinning process, in the worsted process (where we to have to process only synthetic fibres), there is no need of cleaning the fibres as they are manmade.

Synthetic fiber is fed in the Willow Machine for opening and mixing

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CARDING

Manufacturer: Thibeau, Tatham and Hergeth Model Number: CA-6 Number of machines: 5 The carding process aims at forming a sliver. The fibres are individualised by means of an extensive arrangement of numerous cylinders. These are arranged so as to open up the fibres to the optimum and ultimately to separate each single fibre. The carding machines used are Thibeau (manufacturer) aerofeed cards. These cards are fed by means of pipes, which are connected, to the willow machine. Inside these machines, exists a complex arrangement of cylinders of various sizes and this arrangement is designed to optimally open the fibres. The output of these machines is a sliver, i.e., a loose rope of totally individualised fibres. This sliver is stored in cans for transportation to the gill boxes. Weight of Card Sliver Fibres Used Capacity of the Machine 30-35 kg 100% Acrylic, Nylon, Polyester and Blends 65-75 kg/hr

Slivers of synthetic fiber coming out of the Carding Machine 63

LEVELLING (GILL BOX)

Manufacturer: Schlumberger Number of Machines: 13 The gill box is the equivalent of the draw frame used in the cotton spinning process. Here the gill box is used to form tops or balls, which form the feed package for the next stage. The gill box also combs the fibres to achieve the maximum parallelisation of fibres. In addition, the gill box compresses a few card slivers into one sliver so it is used for blending different kinds of material into one sliver. In the gill box, the combing is done at the faller arrangement and the delivery rolls do the calendaring. Thus the sliver produced is a blend of many slivers, i.e., is a blend of different types of materials. According to the properties of the material it may be given more than one passage through the machine. The sliver produced can be stored in cans or be made into tops as per the requirement of the next process.

Parallelization of fibers in the Gill box 64

No.of Faller Delivery Cans Can Specification Diameter of Top Roll Bottom Delivery Roll Diameter Drafting Range Number of Cards fed to the machine Capacity

2 x 72 1, 2 or 4 800 x 1100 mm 80 mm 60 mm 4.1- 11.9 8 GN type: 800-1000kg/shift GC type: 2000-3000 kg/shift

Drafting inside the Gill box: The sliver becomes thinner and finer 65

SIMPLEX

Simplex Machine

Manufacturer: NSC Number of Machines: 3 Model Numbers: FMV-32 (2 numbers), FM-7 (1 number) The speed frame performs three major functions: Drafting: it is the process where the sliver is attenuated by means of exerting a pull on it with sets of rollers. This process ensures that the sliver increases in length and the mass per unit length is decreased. Twisting: it is the process where the attenuated sliver is given rotational twists by means of the rotary movement of the spindle

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 Roving: it is the output of the speed frame. It takes a highly reduced thickness (mass per unit length) in comparison of the sliver. The roving is stored on bobbins and these forms the feed package for the ring frame. The existence of the speed frame is justified by the fact that the sliver cannot be fed directly to the ring frame, firstly due to the very high draft requirement at ring frame and secondly, due to the very large space requirement in ring frame section. Therefore, the speed frame imparts draft to the sliver to prepare it for the ring frame and twist to provide strength to roving. Machine Specifications: Number of Drafting Elements Drafting Range Maximum Delivery Speed Number of Cans Fed Feed Roll Diameter Delivery Roll Diameter Capacity Maximum Rubbing Bobbin Length Tension range between feed roll and draft apron Tension range between rubbing apron and winding roller Tension range between draft roller and rubbing apron 0% to 6% 0% to -11% 12 9-26 200 m/min 24 40 mm 25 & 50 mm 100-200 kg/spindle/hr 1100 cycles/min 240 mm 0.3% to 7.8%

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RING FRAME

Manufacturer: Ishikawa Number of Machines: 26 This is the stage where the yarn is finally formed. The ring frame gives the final draft and the twist to the roving received from the speed frame. The mechanism used consists of three sets of rollers for drafting and spindles for providing twist to the yarn.

Ring Frame

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The process is carried out with the help of rollers and the roving is drafted to a requisite mass per unit length. It also imparts the required twist to the yarn through the rotation of the spindle. The spindles have a very high rate of revolutions per minute. This and some other criteria are adjusted so as to acquire a definite level of TPI, i.e., twist per inch length of yarn. The input in the ring frame is the roving received from the speed frame. This roving is ultimately converted to yarn. Machine Specifications: Number of Spindles Drafting System Bobbin Length Spindle Length Capacity 400 3 220 mm 240 mm 12-15 metric ton/day

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AUTOCONER

Manufacturer: Jehlafhorjt and Murata Number of Machines: 6 The bobbins from the ring frame m/c are collected in containers after their doffing point has reached. In each container, a doff slip is put. This slip is important as it contains the following details: Spindle no. Machine no. Count Time Date Name

This is important as the person is loading the bobbins for identifiable faults. Also they are important for count identification. Each order has a specific colour bobbin allotted to its lot. After this, the trolleys are sent to the Autoconer Machines. This has the function of forming bigger packages in the form of cones which can be used for doubling and then twisting on the T.F.O.

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Splicing is done side by side as the bigger packages are formed in the Autoconer

Machine Specifications: Manufacturer Number of Machines Number of Heads in one Machine Diameter of Yarn Guide Drum Width of Splicing Chamber Package Diameter (maximum) Capacity Jehlafhorjt 5 60 95 mm 3.5 mm 326 mm 8-20 kg/spindle/shift

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TFO

Manufacturer: Veejay Lakshmi Model Number: VJ 160 HS Number of Machines: 43 This machine is used for doubling of yarn. The single yarn in the cone form is converted into cheese. Two, three or four cones can be used to double the yarn without applying any twist. This doubled yarn is wound on cheese. This machine operates on the two for one principle of applying twist. The yarn is gripped at two points during twisting before being wound on the cones. The yarn packages in the form of cheese are kept in the containers of the TFO twister. The yarn is threaded and is gripped at one point below the spindle and at the other point , which continuously rotates and inserts twist. The twisted yarn is wound on the cones. The twist is varied by changing the speed of rotating spindle in the container which grips the yarn. After the cones are removed from the TFO, the following data is mentioned. TPI Cone Weight Customer Count M/C Number

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Machine Specifications: Number of Spindles Number of Spindles/Section Spindle Gauge Pot Diameter Twist Range Package Type Maximum Length of Package (mm) Spindle Speed Stop Motion Machine Width Machine Length 168 6 254 168 mm 2.5-4.3 TPI Cheese 170 12000 rpm Mechanical 1.1 m 23.3 m

Two For One Twister 73

CHEESE WINDING

Manufacturer: Saurer Allma Number of Machines: 4 This step is carried out in order to increase the twist of the yarn. The cheeses produced in the autoconer are wound onto bobbins using this machine. A total of 116 bobbins are produced at one go.

Cheese Winding Machine

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REELING

This is the process which is carried out in order to convert bobbins to hanks depending upon the customers request. Each machine has 44 heads for preparing 44 hanks. Weight of the hank also depends upon the customers specifications. Number of Machines: 18 Time taken for winding 44 hanks: 10 minutes for hanks of 150 gm each

Reeling is taking place in the Hank to Cone section

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PACKING
For worsted spun yarns, packing is done in three ways: Hank Packing (Automatic packer) Cone packing (Palette) Carton Packing

Autopacker

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FANCY YARNS
Fancy yarns or novelty yarns are typically made of two or more strands which are produced to provide decorative surface effects. Based on the purpose of yarn, each strand is referred to as the base yarn, the effect yarn or the binder yarn. The base yarn provides the structure and strength, the effect yarn creates a decorative detail like loops and knots and the binder yarn is used to tie the effect yarn and the base yarn if binding is necessary.

L-R: Flurry Yarn, Boucle Yarn, Loop Yarn

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Fancy yarns in VSGML are produced by four machines:

NEEDLE SPINDLE MACHINE The effect yarn is cut by a blade so as to produce the flurry effect after which it is twisted with the base yarn.

The triangular blade in the Needle Spindle Machine is used to produce the Flurry effect

Production of Flurry Yarn

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CROCHET MACHINE This is a knitting machine which works on the principle of warp and weft yarn. The yarn is firstly knit and then it is cut by the blade in order to create effects like feather and knop. It is also used to make laces.

Crochet Machine

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HOLLOW SPINDLE FANCY TWISTER - EHP MACHINE EHP machine is a multi-purpose machine which is capable of producing most of the effects. Loop, caterpillar, boucle, slub and knop are some of them. These effects are created by setting the speed of the drafts according to the effect required. For example, for a loop effect, the speed of the draft for base yarn would be lesser in comparison to the speed of the draft of the effect yarn. This way more yarn is wound around the base yarn in a shorter period of time creating loops.

Hollow Spindle Fancy Twister

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ESP MACHINE In this machine, one yarn comes straight passing through the hollow spindle, which is known as the base yarn, while the other yarn which is the effect yarn is wrapped around the base yarn by a twister which moves around the base yarn.

SEQUIN MACHINE In this machine, sequins are added to the base yarn one by yarn or at regular intervals that are set depending on the requirement. Garlands of sequins are loaded on the machine while the base yarn is fed from one side. Once the sequins have been attached to the effect yarn it is twisted along with the base yarn and finally wound on a cone.

Sequins are kept on the top inside a very long inverted tube from where the sequins are fed into the yarn periodically

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ASSIGNMENT- 2

82

DYEING
At VSGML, yarn dyeing is carried out. Mostly hank dyeing is done. BULKING:

Bulking is mainly done to give relaxation to the yarn, which can otherwise create problem of shrinkage in home laundering. To attain shrinkage at yarn stage. To get even and better quality yarns. To improve running characteristics of material. Bulking can be done by two methods Water bulking Steam bulking Water Bulking: water bulking is done in a hank machine. The temperature in the machine is maintained at 80C. It takes about 10 minutes for bulking of yarns. Steam Bulking: steam bulking uses autoclave for the bulking process. This process involves homogenous moistening of materials which reduce electrostatic charge which otherwise, influence evenness of yarn. This is done to get even and better
83

quality yarn. Also, to improve running characteristics of material. Efficient steaming enables to achieve homogenous moistening important for proper dye ability.

Bulking of Reels inside the Autoclave

Manufacturer: STAFFI R.B. Electronics Machine Specifications: Capacity Number of Trolleys in Machine Quantity Load per Stick Limit of Vacuum Pressure Limit of Steam Pressure Limit of Temperature 180 kg 5 2.25 to 3 kg 0.5 kg/cm Not more than 0.8 kg 98C

84

HANK DYEING MACHINE- CABINET DYEING: Number of Machines: 32 (3 are sample machines) Manufacturers: Tung-Shing, Lorris Bellini, Tekst It is suitable of processing natural fibers, synthetic and blends at temperature lower than 100C. Scouring, bleaching, dyeing and washing are processes done at boil, by loading once. There is belt driven speed system to suit different kinds of yarn. The industry has machines of 3 different manufacturers. They differ in their dyeing capacity, water capacity, water consumption/lot, power consumption/lot, steam consumption/lot, compressed air consumption/lot and number of sticks. Machine Specifications: Number of Carriers/Machine Operating Steam Pressure Limit of Temperature 2 5 kg/cm 102C

Dyed Reels in the Cabinet Dyeing Machine 85

Main parts of machine a) Kier b) Sampling devices c) Loader d) Additional tank e) Cooling water outlet f) Steam trap g) Additional tank drain h) Feed pump i) Additional flow control j) Impeller k) Water drain l) Pulley m) Water supply n) Cooling water inlet direct heating

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HYDRO EXTRACTOR: Manufacturer: Minnetti Italia (Officine) Number of Machines: 6 It is used to remove excess water from hank after dyeing. It works on the principle of centrifugal force. The time required to hydrate the cotton material is more than the acrylic as cotton has more moisture regain than acrylic. If cotton is not properly dried then it may create problems during cone winding.

Hydro Extractor

Machine Specifications: Capacity 5 machines have 30 kg capacity and 1 machine has 45 kg capacity RPM of Motor Cage Drum Quantity Loaded per Batch Cycle Time of One Batch Standard Productivity 1450 690-700 rpm 30 kg for Acrylic 8 minutes for Acrylic 1350 kg/hand
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DRYER:

Manufacturer: Minnetti Italia (Officine) Number of Machines: 2 (1 old and 1 new) Hank dryer is used to completely dry the hanks of yarns after dyeing and hydroextraction.

Machine Specifications: Features Number of Hangers Temperature Capacity Old Dryer 180 95-105C 1 kg New Dryer 210 95-105C 2.75 g

PRINTING MACHINE:

Manufacturer: 5WA (Italy) Number of Machines: 1 Number of Colour Tanks: 4 This is a new addition to the VSGML dye house for creating yarns with multiple colours. In this printing machine, roller printing machine is used to carry out localized dyeing, for giving fancy effect.

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In this machine, 48 cones are printed at a time. There are mainly 3 rollers: Furnishing Roller: always remains dipped in colour and transfers colour to the other roller. Engraved Roller: Transfers colour to the yarn band and doctor blade here, removes extra colour. Pressure Roller: provides pressure to the yarn band. Yarns are dried and hanks are formed.

Printing Machine; Output of one of the Rollers which is then forwarded for heat setting of colour 89

DRESSING: Dressing is the main part in the yarn hank processing because in bulking, dyeing, dyeing etc. the yarns in the hanks are entangled and they create problems during hank to cone winding. Thus, it is very necessary to dress the hanks after drying as it makes hank to cone winding operation easier.

Dressing is done by one of the workers in Hank to Cone section

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DYEING PROCEDURES There were various dyeing processes going on during our internship period which we covered. They are explained below: Process of 100% Acrylic Violet Shade
Take 85C warm water & water bulking for 10 minutes Overflow it at 50C Add I.G. Surf, Acetic Acid, Retarder, Softener Run it for 20 minutes Add half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes Run it for 10 minutes Raise the temperature at 60C at 1C/minute add the other half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes Run it for 10 minutes Raise the temperature at 80C at 1C/minute Run it for 10 minutes Raise the temperature at 90C at 0.5C/minute Run it for 10 minutes Raise the temperature at 99C at 0.3C/minute Run it for 10 minutes Hold the material and overflow it Drain the material

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Process of Acrylic/Nylon Violet Shades

Take 45C warm water for the material

Add IG Surf, Acetic Acid and run for 10 minutes

Add half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes

Run it for 10 minutes

Then add next half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes

Run it for 10 minutes

Raise the temperature at 99C at 1C/minute

Hold the material as required

Overflow at 40C

Then add 1% wacker finish & 0.5% Formic Acid

Run it for 10 minutes

Raise the temperature at 90C at 0.5C/minute

Run it for 10 minutes

Drain the material

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Process of 100% Polyester Dyeing

Take 45C warm water for the material

Add IG Surf, Acetic Acid and run for 10 minutes

Add half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes

Run it for 10 minutes

Then add next half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes

Run it for 10 minutes

Raise the temperature at 99C at 1C/minute

Hold the material as required

Overflow at 40C

Then add 1% wacker finish & 0.5% Formic Acid

Run it for 10 minutes

Raise the temperature at 90C at 0.5C/minute

Run it for 10 minutes

Drain the material

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PROCESS FLOW OF HANK TO CONE WINDING

Entry of Dyed Material in Hank to Cone Section

Dressing

Loaded on Winding Machines

Hank to Cone Winding

Cones are placed in a trolley

Checking of Cones

Packing
Different types of machine knitting, hand knitting and specialized yarns are processed on hank to cone winding machines for further processing or to be delivered to the market. The machines used are:
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PS Mettler Number of Machines: 9 In this machine, paper cone is attached to the adaptor, one side of which is attached to the spring to hold cone. It is then brought in contact with the revolving drum. Machine Specifications: Number of Drums on Each Machine Drum rpm Weight of Cone 36 (7 machines), 40 (2 machines) 300 1 kg

SSM Number of Machines: 3 Number of Drums in Each Machine Drum rpm Weight of Cone 24 400 2kg

FADIS Number of Machines: 10 Number of Drums in Each Machine Drum rpm Weight of Cone 35 350 2.25 g

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REELING:

This process leads to the formation of lea (lachhi) from cone and then sent for packing in lea form. Name: METRO Automatic Reeling Machine & Hydraulic Bundle Press Number of leas formed in each cycle: 44 Weight of each lea: 150 gm Time Taken for 44 leas: 10 minutes

RAISING: Raising is a process of lifting a layer of fibres from the surface of the fabric so as to form a hairy surface on pile. The process imparts a warm and soft handle. It is the process of raising the fibres from the surface of the yarn according to customers demand. It gives finishing to the yarn that results in: Bulkiness Increase in luster Improved quality Attractive look Soft handle

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PACKING: Packing in VSGML is done in four forms depending upon the customers demand: Ball Lea Bundle Cone Ball: yarn balls are either packed with weight 25 gm or 50 gm. Packing can be in jar or box. Each jar/box may contain 4, 6 or 10 balls Lea: each lea weighs 50 gm and given a tag. 2 leas of 100 gm are packed in a small packet. 20 such small packets make one big packet. 0ne carton contains 16 big packets. Bundle: this packing has leas of 200 gm and given a tag. 3 kg of such leas make one bundle. 5 bundles are packed in one packet. Cone packing: Cones free from faults are with polythene sheets. 2 layers of cones are packed containing 9 cones in each layer. Bag is stitched and carton of 40 kg is prepared.

Balls are being made in the Automatic Ball Machine ;Lea Packing

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Manual Ball making and packing

Bundle Packing 98

EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT (ETP)

Parameters pH Total Suspended Solids(TSS) [mg/L] Total Dissolved Solids(TDS) [mg/L] Dissolved Oxygen (DO) [mg/L] Chemical Oxygen Demand(COD) [mg/L] Biochemical Oxygen Demand [mg/L]

Result treated Effluent 8.09 15

Online Monitoring on ETP 7.59 -

PPCB Prescribed Limits for Sewerage 5.5-9.0 100

1240

2100

3.59

36

250

30

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100

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MATERIAL DEPARTMENT
The main function of the material department is to procure the raw material in the form of bales for the spinning process, packing material, electrical material, electrical material, machine spare parts, oil and lubricants, fuel and building material,

furniture and fixtures and administration equipments. It helps in providing the various request made by all the departments in an effective and efficient way so that there is no wastage of time. This department ensures that the unit never falls short of raw material wherever required. The process flow is as follows: The corporate office at Ludhiana receives orders from various buyers for yarn of specific count and yarn The office then allots the units with the function of production needed to be carried out e.g. if the buyers demand acrylic yarn, the office will provide unit1 with the amount of yarn count to be produced. The units then submit their yearly requirement of cotton or other raw material. Their estimate of requirement is calculated with the ERP system. The ERP system is fed with all the details like: production per shift and material requirement according to the count demanded. The office then deals with cotton sourcing stations i.e. various states in India and procures cotton from there. This detail is intimated to the material department at the spinning unit. The detail includes the number of trucks/ total quantity (in terms of net weight) to be coming to supply the materials. Once the details are received, the material department looks after the receiving, checking, paying for and storing of the bales.

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WHILE RECEIVING THE MATERIAL: The following things are needed to be checked while receiving the materials from trucks. Whether the material is designated to be supplied to the particular company or not because here are two spinning companies of the same Vardhman group, requiring raw material cotton. Net weight of the bales is cross checked with that mentioned on the slip carried by the invoice given to the driver. The weight is calculated by weighing the truck at the time it comes (with the material) and after unloading the trucks. Quality of the bales if the bales are darkened in color and dirty, the defect is brought into notice of the corporate office. Since the material is insured, the office itself decides to pay the charges before or after claiming the insurance.

Various places from which bales are procured: Punjab Gujarat Madhya Pradesh Rajasthan Karnataka Andhra Pradesh

Various qualities of cotton procured are: Indian cotton : Shankar 6, J-34

Varieties Shankar 6 J-34

Cost (Rs. / kg) 52-54 46

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The procurement is done once or twice in a year. But can also be done whenever required. The season begins from October/November and ends in February/march. After checking all the above mentioned details, the material is sent to be stored in the godown. In the godown, the bales are stored in form of stacks. Stickers are put on the bales which are used to identify the number of bales stored. Bales face is always kept on the outer side for identifying the stickers. The no. of the bales stored into the stack and the information is entered into the ERP system. The details which are fed are the quality of the bales i.e. the variety, number of bales of each kind station from which they are received. The bales are pressed bales which have no chance of getting fire. It is always taken care of that the godowns never fall short of material stored.

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DISPATCH
The production department submits the requirement of the raw material to the material department. The variety of cotton and the number of bales is specified. The godown then issues the cotton bales to the production unit and the corresponding issue slip is filled. On an average the production unit requires 300 bales/day. The issue system is FIFO (first in first out) i.e. the bales which are arriving first are issued first. The pressed bales can be kept in the godown for long time also as they are not affected by fire or water.

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MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
The main objective of maintenance department is to eliminate the breakdowns, maximum utilization of machines operating time, incorporations of new technologies and engineering development in the basic design of the machines, augmentation of machine capabilities and optimum expenditures on maintenance function and activities. This aspect of maintenance function helps in reducing or completely prevents maintenance efforts during lifetime of the equipment. It involves various maintenance activity that are to be recorded a year head which helps in planning of manpower, material and service which are required for the period. This system helps in analysis of maintenance work measurement, machine replacement, nature of breakdown and downtimes etc. There is a review committee comprising of spinning superintendent, maintenance in charge and his assistants. This committee holds its meeting regularly and reviews the maintenance performance in the following areas : Analysis of breakdowns. Ratio of downtimes too available operating time. Ratio of other maintenance hold ups to available operating tome. Review of maintenance costs. Review of major replacement. Review of maintenance function and performance. Review of training program. Review of work done by the maintenance personnel.

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ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
The objective of the engineering department is to provide uninterrupted good quality power supply, oil and water free compressed air, healthy and well-maintained humidified air to the production plant thereby adding value in producing good quality yarn. It also helps in catering to the needs of colony residents, club and administration by maintaining safe electricity and water distribution, sewage treatment plants etc.

INDUSTRIAL RELATIONS DEPARTMENT

The procedure underlines the system and methods relation to the functional responsibilities of industrial relations department, i.e. manpower planning,

recruitment, time office function, training and development, grievance handling, welfare and colony administration etc. The system has been designed to provide better services to the human resource and helping them achieving the quality standards as required under ISO 9002. The endeavor of IR department is to promote harmony and industrial pace, fair shop floor practices and promote good relations with local external agencies.

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TRAINING DEPARTMENT
Training and development has been regarded as an important tool for the improvement of skills level, work habits, development of positive attitude of the worker and upgrading the system. Training and development serves as an important means for preparing workers for modified performance standards, improvement of quality of product and reducing absenteeism, accidents and material wastage. Since training is a continuous and time consuming process and entails much expenditure thus while designing and implementing training program, due consideration is given to the organization and workers needs. The activities relating to workers training are organized in workers training and development center i.e. Manav Vikas Kendra (MVK), which is within the premises of Vardhman Spinning and General Mills Ltd. To achieve these objectives more emphasis and importance has been given to impart a systematic attitudinal and function training to the workers. Once a positive work culture and attitude is developed the workers shall they be interested in improving their skills and knowledge. The main focus is on workers learning and not on teaching them.

Manpower/Day(2011-12)
255 253 250 255 254

245

Average Operators

240 238 235 January February March April May

239 236 June July

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COSTING DEPARTMENT
The marketing department forecasts the quantity of yarn which they can sell and the production department reports the amount of yarn which the unit can produce. The costing department then makes the annual and monthly budgets. The budget includes the following factors: Labour wages Raw material Packing material Electricity Transport (raw material and dispatch) Maintenance cost incurred during production run.

The budget and the production plan are installed in the ERP system which is transparent. The users can see the activity schedule of the production planning through various codes specified. The ERP system is also fed by the daily production details of the units. The costing department checks the production details through the ERP system production delays can cause high costs to the company. The department is given the inputs regarding the count of the yarn to be made, the total amount of time of dispatch. The department ensures that no ring frame remains idle or in non working condition during any of the shifts. The department checks the report for any kind of detensions (detension report) or stoppages during production. By checking the detension reports the department comes to know the reason and timing of the machine stoppage. The machine stoppage has direct effect on the production of the unit. Some serious causes requiring maintenance department look after are brought into notice and checked.

For any production order running the following is the estimated cost break up in the percentage.

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RAW MATERIAL POWER COST

50 55 % 12 15 %

These two factors account for the major cost incurred. The department also looks into the profitability factor. After receiving the order, allotted by the corporate office, the department decides the time required for the completion. This time is calculated, as specified earlier, through the machine productivity data available in the ERP system. The daily production details are checked and thus the order is kept under track. It is also to note that the cost of storing the finished good i.e. yarn is incurred. Thus the dispatch is done within a time of 10-12 days otherwise the working capital gets blocked.

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LEARNING OUTCOME

The learning at Vardhaman Spinning and General Mills was indeed a unique one with a lot to understand and take with us. The major learning outcomes at VSGM were based on the following points: Understanding of the different departments working at the factory Necessary processes to be carried out before final delivery Inevitable constraints for any process Understanding of spinning, problems and their solutions Understanding the importance of workforce and results of absenteeism on production Understanding the machine effectiveness and addressing their maintenance issues The process flow of Production Department and the steps involved The above areas of understanding made us more aware of the spinning operations, weaving operations and finishing operations. The learning experience was also a helping tool in making us aware of our role as garment and textile experts

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