Manual Motorbike Sachs XTC

SACHS
Recommends
Sachs Fahrzeug- und Motorentechnik GmbH · Nopitschstrasse 70

D-90441 Nürnberg ·Tel +49 (0)911 42 31 0 · Fax +49 (0) 911 42 31 405
Printed in Germany 2003 11 001

Repair Instructions
No. P00 677 008 06 02 000 Edition Oktober 2003
XTC 125 4-stroke
Sachs Fahrzeug- und Motorentechnik GmbH

PREFACE
This repair manual serves as guideline for professional
repair activities.
See the illustrated spare-parts catalog for further assis-
tance.
All figures, dimensions and descriptions correspond to the

state of the version concerned. All changes are reserved
in the interest of further development of the construction
models.
See also the "technical information", which provides data

about technical changes implemented after this repair
manual was sent to the printer .
The technical information is intended for master me-

chanics, since its careful and constant observation is a
requisite for preserving the operability of the individual
assemblies of the motorcycle.
Apart from such information, the usual basic safety rules

that apply to the repair of motorcycles must be obser-
ved.
Use the tools provided for in the "Motor" section.

The use of unsuitable tools may adversely affect engine
operability.
This manual is provided only for inter-

nal use within the Sachs organisation.
It may not be reproduced or made available to third par-
ties.
Use only original SACHS spare parts.
Sachs Fahrzeug- und Motorentechnik GmbH

SACHS XTC 125 4-stroke
TABLE OF CONTENTS Page

Technical data 2-4
Assembly agents 5
Repair tools and installation equipment for engines 6-7
Torque values for engine, clutch, gearbox, chassis 8-9
Service Data 10-11
General notes 12
Inspection plan 13
Tappet clearance 14-17
Spark plug 18
Air filter 19
Engine oil and oil filter 20-22
Checking/adjusting the clutch 23
Checking/adjusting the chain 24
Brake system 25-29
Fork column bearing 30
Charging the battery 31
Fuel tank, cock, tank filler removing/installing 32-33
Front wheel guard removing/installing 33
Removing/installing ignition fork-column 34
Footrests, footbrake removing/installing 36-37
Handlebar removing/installing 37-39
Checking/adjusting headlamp 40
General checking 41
Exhaust system removing/installing 42
Engine disassembly 43-51
Engine components inspection and service 52-56
Cylinder head disassembly and service 56-65
Cylinder, piston service 65-67
Crankshaft, conrod service 68-72
Transmission, clutch service 73-76
Engine reassembly 77-86
Piston, cylinder, cylinder head reassembly 87-89
Camshaft assembly 89-93
Carburetor data, removal inspection 95-103
Lubrication system chart 104
Electric system 105-117
Wheels removing/installing, checking 118-120
Telescopic fork, fork column bearing, suspension removing/installing, checking 121-127
Chain set replacing 128
Brakes removing/installing, checking 129-131
Lights 132-134
Troubleshooting 135-140
Wiring diagram 141
1
TECHNICAL DATA
Engine
Type: FX 125
Construction: One cylinder 4-stroke, DOHC four valve
Pistion displacement: 124,5 cc
Bore: ø 57 mm
Stroke: 48,8 mm
Compression ratio: 10,4
Maximum net power output: 11 KW at 10500 1/min
Maximum net torque: 11 Nm at 7200 1/min
Ignition system: transistorized ignition system with electronic ignition control (CDI)
Static timing: 5 ° at 1.500 1/min B.T.D.C
Spark plug: NGK CR8E or DENSO U24ESR-N Electrode distance 0,6 mm
Carburettor: Mikuni BS 26 47E3
Air-filter: paper air-filter
Idling speed: 1450 - 1550 1/min
Typ of starter: electric starter
Cooling: air cooled with oil cooler
Power transmission
Clutch: Wet multi-plate type
Gear box: 5-seed constant mesh
Gear ratios: 1. gear = 33/12 (2,75)
2. gear = 25/14 (1,786)
3. gear = 26/19 (1,368)
4. gear = 23/21 (1,095)
5. gear = 21/23 (0,913)
Primary transmission ratio: 70/20 (3,5)
Seccondary transmission ratio: 3,3 with tire 150/60 R17 66 HTL
3,4 with tire 150/70-17 M/C 69 HTL
Chain pinion: 14 teeth
Sprocket: 53 teeth with tire 150/60 R17 66 HTL
55 teeth with tire 150/70-17 M/C 69 HTL
Chain: O-ring chain 144 links
2
TECHNICAL DATA
Chassis
Motorbike version: XTC 125 type 677 001 / XTC 125 type 677 003
Frame: Trellis-type frame made of tubular steel
Front suspension: Telescopic fork ø 41 mm , hydraulic shock absorption, travel 120 mm
Rear suspension: Oil-damped mono shock absorber, travel 120 mm,
adjustable preload
Wheels: Light metal (Alu)
Front rim size: = 17" x MT 2.75 DOT
Rear rim size: = 17" MT 4.00 DOT
Tires: Front = 110/70 17R 54 W TL / 110 / 70 -17 M/C 54 HTL
Rear = 150/60 17R 66 W TL / 150 / 70 -17 M/C 69 HTL
Tire pressure, solo Front = 1.9 rear = 2.1 bar
pillion driver Front = 1.9 rear = 2.3 bar
Brakes, front: Hydraulic disc brake ø 316 mm four piston caliper
Minumim lining thickness 2,5 mm
Brakes, rear: Hydraulic disc brake ø 220 mm single piston floating caliper
Minumim lining thickness 1,5 mm
Lubricants and operating fluids

Fuel tank capacity: 20.0 litres, including 4.0 litres reserve
Fuel: Unleaded fuel
Telescopic-fork oil: Viscosity SAE 10 W
Filling quantity per fork tube: 280 cm3
Engine oil, oil change w.o. filter: 1.000 cm3 SAE 10 W 40 mineral oil API (SG or higher)
oil change with filter: 1.200 cm3
oil change overhaul: 1.400 cm3
Brake fluid: DOT 4
Electrical Equipment
Generator: Flywheel magneto, 12V, 100W at 5000rpm
Battery: 12 V 4 Ah MF
Fuse: 20 A
Lights:
- Headlight: Highbeam: H3 12 V 55W E1 / low beam H1 12V 55W E1
- Position light: 12 V 2W
- Pilot lights: 12 V 1,2 W
- Brake/rear light: 12 V 5W / 21 W
- Number plate light: 12 V 2W
- Turn signal light: 12 V 10 W
3
TECHNICAL DATA
Dimensions and weights
Overall length: 1970 mm
Width across handlebars
without rear view mirror: 660 mm
Maximum height: 1040 mm without rear view mirror
Wheel base: 1350 mm
Seat height: 800 mm
Seat length: Driver: 290 mm, pillion passenger: 270 mm
Curb weight: 130 kg
Max. permitted total weight: 330 kg
Top speed: 102 km/h
4
ASSEMBLY AGENTS
Designation Use
Suzuki Bond 1215 Sealing of crank case halves
Thread Look Super “1303” Housing screws for secondary output gear
Thread Look “1342” Generater stator setscrew
Thread Look “1360” Disc assembly screws
Suzuki Bond Cylinder head cover
Thread Look Super “1324” Fastening screws and nuts for drive and countershaft bearing
Thread Look Super “1305” Oil pump housing screws
Thread Look Super “1322” Oil tube fastening screws
5
REPAIR TOOLS AND INSTALLATION EQUIPMENT FOR ENGINES
1 2 3 4 5
6 7 8 9 10
11 12 13 14 15
16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25
26
Tools without material number have to be purchased from specialised trade.
6
Repair tools and installation equipment for engines

Fig. No. Order-no. Designation
1 K 09900-22302-000 Plastigauge
2 K 09910-20116-000 Conrod holder
3 K 09910-32812-000 Crankshaft installer
4 K 09910-34510-000 Piston pin puller
5 K 09911-11310-000 Attachment
6 K 09913-10750-000 Adaptor for compression gauge
7 K 09913-50121-000 Oil seal remover
8 K 09913-75510-000 Bearing installer
9 K 09913-75520-000 Bearing insaller
10 K 09913-75810-000 Bearing insaller
11 K 09913-75821-000 Bearing installer attachment
12 K 09913-76010-000 Bearing installer
13 K 09915-72410-000 Adaptor for oil pressure gauge
14 K 09915-74510-000 Oil pressure gauge
15 K 09916-14510-000 Valve lifter
16 K 09916-14530-000 Valve lifter attachment
17 K 09916-21110-000 Valve seat cutter set
18 K 09916-24410-000 Valve seat cutter (N-111) 60° intake side
18 K 09916-24460-000 Valve seat cutter (N-130) 15° exhaust side
18 K 09916-24470-000 Valve seat cutter (N-131) 45° intake side and exhaust side
18 K 09916-20630-000 Valve seat cutter (N-126) 30° intake side
19 K 09916-20640-000 Solid pilot
20 K 09916-34542-000 Valve guide reamer 4.5 mm
21 K 09916-34580-000 Valve guide reamer 10.8 mm for vlave guide hole
22 K 09916-43210-000 Valve guide installer
23 K 09920-13120-000 Crankcase separator
24 K 09920-53740-000 Clutch sleeve hub holder
25 K 09922-55131-000 Counter shaft (2-4-5 gear) remover
26 K 09930-44512-000 Rotor holder
- P98 835 771 07 01 000 Assembly stand set
7
TOURQE VALUES FOR ENGINE/CLUTCH/GEARBOX/CHASSIS
Tightening torques, gerneral Nm

Srew connection M5 5-6
Tightening torques for plastic connections Nm
Tightening torques engine/clutch/gearbox

Connection Nm
Cylinder head cover bolt 14
Cylinder head bolt 25
Cylinder head nut 10
Cylinder base nut 10
Cam sprocket bolt 11
Camshaft holder bolt 10
Cam chain tension adjuster bolt 10
Starter clutch bolt 10
Spark plug 11
Cylinder head stud bolt 15
Crank balancershaft set bolt 50
Generator rotor nut 80
Primary drive gear nut 50
Clutch sleeve hub nut 50
Gearshift cam plate bolt 10
Gearshift cam stopper arm shaft 10
Gearshift arm stopper bolt 19
Driveshaft and countershaft bearing retainer screw 8.5
Crankcase bolt 10
Generator cover bolt 10
Clutch cover bolt 10
Engine oil pipe union bolt 20
Engine oil drain plug 18
T.D.C. plug 21
Generator cover cap 11
Engine sprocket nut 90
Oil cooler hose union bolt 23
Exhaust pipe bolt M8 22-25
Exhaust pipe mounting bolt and nut M6 10
Muffler mounting bolt and nut M8 22-25
Engine mounting nut M10 66
Engine mounting bolt M8 31
8
Tightening torques for chassis

Connection Part designation Nm
Half-handlebar fastening Screw M8 25-28
Fastening screws for upper fork bridge Screw M10 40
Fastening screws for lower fork bridge Screw M8 13-15
Screw plug for fork pipe Screw 40
Closing nut of control-head bearing Nut M24 40
Covering holder, front Screw with nut M8 3-15
Covering screws Screw M6 8
Brake shoe, front Screw M10 35-38
Brake disk on wheel hub, front Screw 10-11
Brake disk on wheel hub, rear Screw 10-11
Brake pipe connection Banjo bolt 18-20
Ventilating valve on calliper Ventilator screw 10
Footbrake cylinder on frame Screw with nut M6 12
Screws for brake lining, rear screw 35-38
Footbrake lever on frame Screw M8 25-28
Footbrake lever on frame Screw M8 25-28
Footrest support, front Screw with nut M8 25
Footrest support, rear Screw with nut M8 25
Chain wheel to hub Screw M8 25-28
Engine fastening Screw with nut M8 28
Engine fastening Screw with nut M10 42
Front-wheel axle Full floating axle M24 60-65
Locking screw for front axle Screw M6 10
Rear-wheel axle Nut M16 88-90
Swing axle Nut M16 88-90
Telescopic leg Screw with nut M10 42
Side standard Nut M10 42
9
SERVICE DATA
VALVE + GUIDE Unit: mm

ITEM STANDARD LIMIT
Valve diam. IN. 22 -
EX. 19 -
Tappet clearance (when cold) IN. 0.10-0.20 -
EX. 0.20-0.30 -
Valve guide to valve stem clearance IN. 0.010-0.037 -
EX. 0.030-0.057 -
Valve stem deflection IN. & EX. - 0.35
Valve guide I.D IN. & EX. 4.500-4.512 -
Valve stem O.D. IN. 4.475-4.490 -
EX. 4.455-4.470 -
Valve stem runout IN. & EX. - 0.05
Valve head thickness IN. & EX. - 0.5
Valve seat width IN. & EX. 0.9-1.1 -
Valve head radial runout IN. & EX. - 0.03
Valve spring free length IN. & EX. - 37.8
Valve spring tension IN. & EX. 12.1-13.9 kg -
at length 33.7 mm
CAMSHAFT+ CYLINDER HEAD Unit: mm
ITEM STANDARD LIMIT
Cam height IN. 34.960-35.000 34.650
EX. 33.260-33.300 33.950
Camshaft journal oil clearance IN. & EX. 0.032-0.066 0.150
Camshaft journal holder I.D. IN. & EX. 22.012-22.025 -
Camshaft journal O.D. IN. & EX. 21.959-21.980 -
Camshaft runout IN. & EX. - 0.10
Cam chain pin (at arrow "3") 16th pin -
Cylinder head distortion - 0.05
CYLINDER + PISTON + PISTON RING Unit: mm

ITEM STANDARD LIMIT
Compression pressure 13.0 kg/cm 2
10.0 kg/cm2
Piston to Cylinder clearance 0,050-0.060 0.120
Cylinder bore 57.000-57.015 57.362
Piston diam. 56.945-56.960 56.850
Measure at 15 mm from the skirt end.
Cylinder distortion - 0.05
Piston ring free end gap 1st R Approx. 7.2 6.2
2nd R Approx. 5.0 3.96
Piston ring end gap 1st 0.20-0.32 0.5
2nd 0.20-0.32 0.5
10
SERVICE DATA
CYLINDER + PISTON + PISTON RING Unit: mm

ITEM STANDARD LIMIT
Piston ring to groove clearance 1st - 0.18
2nd - 0.15
Piston ring groove width 1st 1.01-1.03 -
2nd 1.01-1.03 -
Oil 2.01-2.03 -
Piston ring thickness 1st 0.97-0.99 -
2nd 0.97-0.99 -
Piston pin bore 15.002-15.008 15.030
Piston pin O.D. 14.995-15.000 14.980
CONROD + CRANKSHAFT Unit: mm

ITEM STANDARD LIMIT
Conrod small end I.D. 15.006-15.014 15.040
Conrod deflection - 3.0
Conrod big end side clearance 0.10-0.45 1.00
Conrod big end width 15.950-16.000 -
Crank web to web width 53.0±0.1 -
Crankshaft runout - 0.08
OIL PUMP
ITEM STANDARD LIMIT
Oil pump reduction ratio 2.000 (30/15) -
Oil pressure (at 60° C) Above 0.3 kg/cm 2
-
Below 0.7 kg/cm2
at 3 000 r/min.
CLUTCH Unit: mm
ITEM STANDARD LIMIT
Clutch lever play 10-15 -
Drive plate thickness 2.9-3.1 2.6
Drive plate claw width 11.8-12.0 11.0
Driven plate distortion - 0.10
Clutch spring free length - 29.5
11
GENERAL NOTES
Gaskets, seal rings and O-rings
- Gaskets, seal rings and O-rings must generally be

replaced when overhauling the engine. The sealing
faces must be thoroughly cleaned.
Lock washers and split pins

- After removal replace all lock washers (1) and
split pins.
1 After tightening the nut, lock washer (1) must be
bent up against the side of the nut.
SFM 835 001.3
Bearings and radial seals

- When assembling bearings (1) make sure that
manufacturer name or number point to the outside.
Lubricate the bearings with oil.
ATTENTION
Do not use compressed air to dry the bearings since
this could damage the surface of the bearings.
1
SFM 835 002.3
- When assembling radial seals (1) make sure that

1
manufacturer name or number point to the outside.
Apply a thin coat of lightly viscous engine oil to the
seal lips.
Circlips
- Circlips must be thoroughly inspected before instal-
lation.
- Piston pin circlips must not be assembled again.
- Warped circlips must be renewed.
- When assembling a circlip (1) make sure that
the sharp edged side (2) is positioned op-
posite the side subjected to the force (3) ap-
plied to the circlip. See cross-sectional drawing
SFM 835 003.3
(4 = shaft).
4 3
2
SFM 835 004.3
12
INSPECTION PLAN
Component Servicing Tasks Before 1st ser-

Assembly each vice Every Every
trip after 4.000 km 8.000 km
1000 km
Valves Check and adjust valves as necessary (cold) inspect every 12.000 km
Spark plugs Check condition and accordingly clean or inspect inspect inspect
change
Air filter Clean filter and housing. Replace paper filter clean replace replace
Carburetor Check and adjust idle and cold start x x x x
Throttle cable x x x x
Petrol hoses Check and replace as necessary (change at x x x x
least every 4 years)
Motoroil Change (operating temperature) x x x
Oil filter Change x x
Exhaust system Check for leads and repair as necessary x x
Brakes Check brake function and brake fluid as well x x x x
as housing, correcting as necessary
Check and replace brake pads x x x
Brake fluid Change Every 24.000km / 2 Years
Brake hoses Check and renew* (min. every 4 years) x x x
Clutch Check and adjust x x x x
Back wheel Look over, check play and renew or regreas Every 24.000km / 2 Years
mounting as necessary
Tyres Check general condition and tread depth and x x x x
replace as necessary
Wheels Check for damage, balance x x x
Stearing Check and adjust free play x x
and bearings
Front forks Check general condition as well as for leaks x x
and repair as necessary
Chain Check adjustment and condidtion and grease, inspect clean and lubricate every 1000 km
adjust and renew as necessary
Side stand Check, grease, repair as necessary x x x x
Nut and bolt Check that all bolts and nuts are tightened to x x x
tightness the correct torque settings
Cables Check and renew x x x
Headlight Check and adjust x x x x
General safety Check general safety standards: clutch, gear x x x x
check switch, revs, brakes, headset, lights,
air pressure and adjust accordingly
13
TAPPET CLEARANCE
Inspect every 12 000 km.
INSPECTION
- Remove the fuel tank.
- Disconnect the spark plug cap and remove the
spark plug.
- Remove the cylinder head cover.
The tappet clearance specification is different for both
intake and exhaust valves.
Tappet clearance adjustment must be checked and
adjusted:
- at the time of periodic inspection
when the valve mechanism is serviced
- when the camshafts are removed for servicing.
Tappet clearance (when cold): IN.: 0,10-0,20 mm

EX.: 0,20-0,30 mm
NOTE
The piston must be at top dead center (TDC) on the
compression stroke in order to check or adjust the
tappet clearance.
The tappet clearance should only be checked when
the engine is cold.
- Remove the generator cover cap (1) and valve

timing inspection plug (2).
- Rotate the crankshaft with a box wrench to

set the piston at top dead center (TDC) on the
compression stroke. (Rotate the crankshaft until
the "T" line on the generator rotor is aligned with
the center of the hole in the generator cover.)
- lnsert a thickness gauge between the tappet and

the cam. If the clearance is out of specification,
adjust it to specification as follows.
Tool: Thickness gauge
14
ADJUSTMENT
The clearance is adjusted by replacing the existing
tappet shim with a thicker or thinner shim.
- Remove the intake or exhaust camshafts.
- Remove the tappet and shim by hand or with a
magnet.
- Check the numbers printed on the tappet shim.

These numbers indicate the thickness of the tap-
pet shim, as illustrated.
- Select a replacement tappet shim that will provide
the proper clearance. Tappet shims are available
in 21 sizes, ranging from 1.20 to 2.20 mm in incre-
ments of 0.05 mm. lnstall the selected shim (1)
at the valve stem end, with the numbers facing
towards the tappet. Be sure to measure the shim
with a micrometer to ensure that it is of the proper
size.
Refer to the tappet shim selection table for de-
tails.
NOTE
Be sure to apply engine oil to the top and bottom
faces of the tappet shim.
When installing the tappet shim, make sure that the
side with the numbers face towards the tappet.
CAUTION
Reinstall the Camshafts as specified.
- After replacing the tappet shim and camshafts, ro-

tate the crankshaft so that the tappet is depressed
fully (this will squeeze out any oil trapped between
the tappet shim and the tappet that could cause an
incorrect measurement). After rotating the crank-
shaft, check the tappet clearance again to make
sure that it is within specification.
- When installing the cylinder head cover, apply SU-

ZUKI BOND NO.1207B to the cam end caps of the
cylinder head cover gasket.
SUZUKI BOND NO.1207B
- Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts to specifica-

tion in two stages.
Cylinder head cover bolt: Initial 10 Nm

Final 14 Nm
15
INTAKE SIDE TAPPET SHIM SELECTION TABLE

TAPPET SHIM NO. (12892-05C00- x x x) TAPPET SHIM SET NO. (12800-05820)
How to use this chart:

1. Measure tappet clearance (engine is cold).
2. Measure present shim size.
3. Match clearance in vertical column with present shim size horizontal column.
Example:
Tappet clearance is 0.23 mm
Present shim size 1.70 mm
Shim size to be used 1.80 mm
Surfix no.
Present
Shim size
Measured tappet
mm
clearance mm
Specified clearance / No adjustment required
16
EXHAUST SIDE TAPPET SHIM SELECTION TABLE

TAPPET SHIM NO. (12892-05C00- x x x) TAPPET SHIM SET NO. (12800-05820)
How to use this chart:

1. Measure tappet clearance (engine is cold).
2. Measure present shim size.
3. Match clearance in vertical column with present shim size horizontal column
Example:
Tappet clearance is 0.33 mm
Present shim size 1.70 mm
Shim size to be used 1.80 mm
Surfix no.
Present
Measured tappet Shim size
mm
clearance mm
Specified clearance / No adjustment required
17
SPARK PLUG
Inspect every 4.000 km

Replace every 8.000 km

- Pull off the spark plug socket and unscrew the
spark plugs.
Spark plug Type

NGK CR8E
DENSO U24ESR-N
Check the spark plug:

- Check the spark plug type and replace if
necessary.
- Check electrodes (1 and 2) for wear and damage.
- Check the colour of the insulator (3):
Normal state is a medium to light brown
coloration. In case of extremely deviating
cloration check the engine timing or the ignition
cables.
- Check the electrode gap (A) with a feeler gauge
and adjust it if necessary. 3
A
Electrode gap (A) 0.6 mm
2 1
NOTE
Before installation clean spark plug and spark plug
sealing faces.
- Install the spark plug.
Tightening torque 11 Nm
18
Air filter
�
�
�
�
��
Clean initally at 1.000 km

Opening the air filter:
- Remove the screws (1).

- Take off the cover (2) with spring (3) and the cover
(4).
- Clean the filter case and filter element (5) or replace
if necessary.
NOTE
Before installation, check the gasket (6) for damage
and correct position.
Assembly of the cleaned or new filter element takes
place in reserve order of removal.
Tightening torque: 7 Nm
19
ENGINE OIL
CAUTION -10˚ 0˚ 10˚ 20˚ 30˚ 40˚ 50˚C
Do not use additives. Since the oil also serves to
lubricate the clutch, do not use car engine oils
supplemented with friction modifiers (such energy- SAE 10W/30
conserving oils can lead to the clutch slipping). Use
a suitable, light engine oil for motorcycles, such as SAE 10W/40
Motorex SAE 10W/40 mineral oil API (SG or
higher).
If required, replenish the engine oil (for classification SAE 20W/40
and viscosity, see the table) via the oil filter opening.
Recommended grade: SAE 20W/50

Per API: SG or higher or also with additional release
status: ACEA A3/96 (CCMC G5).
Recommended viscosity:
Viscosity depends on the outside temperature. For

short while, the temperature may exceed or fall short
of the limits of the SAE grades.
The recommended viscosity grade SAE 10W/40 covers

the ambient temperature range –10 °C to +40 °C and
therefore represents the optimum for our latitudes.
20
ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT
ENGINE OIL
Replace initally at 1.000 km
The engine oil should be changed while the engine

is warm. Oil filter replacement at the above intervals,
should be done together with the engine oil change.
CAUTION
Catch old oil and dispose of environmentally.
Do not run the engine in closed rooms without
proper extraction of fumes.
- Keep the motorcycle upright.
- Place an oil pan below the engine, and drain the
engine oil by removing the oil drain plug (1) and
filler cap (2).
- Tighten the oil drain plug (1) to the specified
torque, and pour new oil through the oil filler.
When performing an oil change (without oil filter
replacement), the engine will hold about 1.0 L of
oil.
Oil drain plug: 18 Nm
- Install the oll filter cap.
- Start up the engine and allow it to run for several
seconds at idling speed.
- Turn off the engine and wait about one minute,
then check the oil level through the inspection
window (3). lf the level is below the "F" mark, add
oil to the proper level.
21
OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
OIL FILTER
Replace initally at 1.000 km
ATTENTION
Use only genuine Oilfilter, because the filters from
other manufacturers or parts sold in the market may
have different threads (thread diameter and pitch),
filter performance and resistance, which could lead
to engine damage and oil leaks.
- Drain the engine oil as described in the engine oil

replacement procedure.
- Remove the oil filter cap (1) by removing the
bolts.
- Remove the oil filter (2) and install a new one.
- lnstall the oil filter cap (1) and tighten the bolts
securely.
NOTE
Before installing the new oil filter and oil filter cap,
make sure that the spring (1) and new O-rings
(2, 3) are installed correctly.
- Add new engine oil and check the oil level

as described in the engine oil replacement
procedure.
Oil viscosity and classification:

SAE 10W/40 mineral oil API (SG or higher).
NECESSARY AMOUNT OF ENGINE OIL

Oil change: 1 000 ccm
Oil and filter change: 1 100 ccm
Engine overhaul: 1 400 ccm
22
Checking/adjusting the clutch
Checking the clutch:

1. Pull the lever until resistance is felt. 1 2
2. Measure the play. A
Target value (A): 3-4 mm
Adjusting the clutch:

3. Loosen the lock-nut (1).
4. Twist the adjusting screw (2) correspondingly.
5. Firmly retighten the lock-nut (1).
6. Check the play.
NOTE
SFM 675 005.1
If the clutch play cannot be corrected by means of this
adjustment, do the following:
7. Loosen the lock-nut (1).
8. Twist in the adjustment screw (2) all the way, in
order to make the pull cable as loose as possib-
le.
9. Firmly retighten the lock-nut (1).
10. Loosen the adjustment nuts (4) of the pull cable

(3).
11. Use the adjustment nuts (4) to adjust the pull
cable (3) correspondingly, until the clutch-lever 4
play (A = 3-4 mm) has been achieved. 3
12. Firmly retighten the adjustment nuts (4) of the
pull cable (3).
NOTE
If the clutch-lever play can no longer be adjusted,
the clutch must be checked or replaced, and the l
m
00
10
basic adjustment of the clutch must be carried out.
SFM 677 020.1
23
Checking/adjusting the chain
Checking the chain for wear:
1 2
CAUTION
The chain, chain wheel and pinion wheel must be
replaced collectively, i.e. not as individual parts. A
- Put the motorcycle on its side standard. 5 1 4

- Hold the chain (5) by the rearmost part of the chain 6
wheel and pull the chain backwards.
- If the chain tension is correct, it will not be
possible to lift the chain over the top of the teeth.
2 5
- If the chain can be pulled any further, replace 3 SFM 675 008.3
the chain, chain wheel and pinion wheel.
Adjusting the chain:
CAUTION
The chain adjustment af fects the wear of chain
and the toothed wheel rim.
- Loosen the full floating axle (4) and nuts (1) from
the chain take-up.
- Evenly adjust the adjusting screws (2) of the chain
take-up on both sides in such a way (rear wheel
must be aligned with front wheel-adjustment aid
is the scale (6)), that the chain slack (A) = 30-40
mm.
- Tighten the nuts.
Tightening torques:
Full floating axle (4): 60-65 Nm
Nuts (1): 22-25 Nm
24
Brake system
Checking the brake system for leaks

1. Check the brake lines for damage and correct
position.
2. Wipe off all screw connections of the brake lines.
3. Firmly operate the front and rear brakes and shortly
keep them operated.
4. Check the brake lines for any leaks.
5. Replace any faulty brake lines and seals/
washers.
Checking/adjusting the front brake-fluid level
CAUTION
Brake fluid damages paint and plastic parts!
Before filling the tank with brake fluid, check the
brake lining for wear and the brake system for
leaks.
Only use new brake fluid of specification DOT 4.
Brake fluid is exposed to high temperatur es and
absorbs moisture from the ambient air.
NOTE
Cover the tank and painted parts to avoid damage.
3
Checking the brake-fluid level:
- Turn the handlebar until the line near the "MIN"
mark on the brake-fluid tank (1) is horizontal.
2
- The brake-fluid level must be between the "MIN" 1
and "MAX" marks.
- If air bubbles are visible: check the brake lining for
wear and replenish the brake fluid as necessary.
Replenishing the brake fluid:

- Twist off the cover (3) and remove it along with the SFM 675 011.3
rubber diaphragm (2).

- Replenish the brake fluid up to the "MAX" mark and
reinsert the rubber diaphragm (2).
- Twist on the cover (3).
25
Checking/adjusting the rear brake-fluid level

CAUTION
Brake fluid damages paint and plastic parts!
Before filling the tank with brake fluid, check the
brake lining for wear and the brake system for
leaks.
Only use new brake fluid of specification DOT 4.
Brake fluid is exposed to high temperatur es and
absorbs moisture from the ambient air.
NOTE
Cover painted parts is in order to avoid paint dama-
ge.
Checking the brake-fluid level:
- Make sure the motorcycle is level.
- The brake-fluid level should be between the
minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) marks on
the brake-fluid tank.
- If the brake-fluid level is lower than the minimum
(MIN) mark: check the brake lining for wear and 1
replenish the brake fluid as necessary. 2
Replenishing the brake fluid:
- Make sure the motorcycle is level (so that the line 3
near the "MIN" mark on the brake-fluid tank (3) is
level). SFM 675 012.3
- Twist off the cover (1) and remove it along with the
rubber diaphragm (2).
- Replenish the brake fluid up to the "MAX" mark.
- Reinsert the rubber diaphragm (2).
- Twist on the cover (1).
26
Checking/replacing the lining of the front brake-

shoes
Checking the lining thickness:
CAUTION 2
Make sure the minimum lining thickness is ob-
served.
A
- Visually inspect the calliper (1). 1
- Check the minimum lining thickness.
Minimum lining thickness (A): 2.5 mm
- IIf the thickness is less than the minimum: A
replace the brake lining.
- Check the brake disk for wear and wobble. SFM 675 013.3
Replacing the brake linings:

NOTE
Brake linings may only be replaced in pairs.
1
- Remove the screws from the holder clamp (1) and
the screws (3) from the calliper (2). 3
- Remove the calliper (2).
2
SFM 675 015.3
- Remove the lock washer (3) and the holder bolts

2
(2) from the calliper (1).
- Remove the brake linings (1).
- Use a commercially available tool to set back the
pistons in the calliper (1) all the way, then clean the 1
contact faces of the brake linings (4).
- Insert the new brake linings (4) and fasten them with
3
the holder bolts (2) and the locking washers (3).
- Reassemble in reverse order.
Tightening torques of the calliper screws:
35-38 Nm
4 SFM 675 014.3
WARNING - RISK OF ON-ROAD ACCIDENT
Operate the brakes several times, until the brake
linings make contact.
- Check the brake - fluid level and the handbrake

play.
- Check the operation.
27
Checking/replacing the lining of the rear brake-

shoes
Checking the lining thickness: 1
CAUTION
Make sure the minimum lining thickness is ob- A
served.
- Visually inspect the lower calliper (1) from the left-

hand side of the motorcycle.
- Check the minimum lining thickness.
Minimum lining thickness (A): 1.5 mm
SFM 675 016.3
If the lining thickness is less than the minimum:
replace the brake lining.
- Check the brake disk for wear and wobble.
Replacing the brake lining:

5
NOTE
The brake linings may only be replaced in pairs.
- Remove the rear wheel. 1

- Remove the brake anchor plates along with the
calliper (1) from the rear swing. 4
- Bend back the lock plate (2) and remove the screws 2
(3).
3
- Remove the holder plate (4) and remove the brake
linings (5).
- Use a commercially available tool to set back the SFM 675 017.3
pistons in the calliper (1) all the way, then clean the
contact faces of the brake linings (5).
- Insert the new brake linings (5) and the holder plate
(4) and fasten them with the lock plate (2) and the
screws (3).
Tightening torques of the screws (3): 25-28 Nm
- Bend the lock plate (2) to lock the screws (3).

- Reassemble in reverse order.
- Check the brake fluid and the handbrake play.
- Check the operation.
28
Changing the brake fluid
CAUTION
Brake fluid can damage paint and plastic parts!
Use only brake fluid of specification DOT 4.
- Change the brake fluid and vent the brake sys-

tem.
- Check the handbrake lever adjustment and check
its operation.
Adjusting the handbrake lever

- Loosen the lock nut (1) on the handbrake lever
(3).
- Turn the adjusting screw (2) until the empty run (A)
at the handbrake lever is 30 mm until the pressure
position.
- Retighten the lock nut (1).
1
2
A 3
SFM 675 018.3-1
Checking/greasing/adjusting the empty run and

smooth run of the footbrake lever
- Check the smooth operation of the footbrake lever; Max
.
Min.
grease it as necessary.
Adjusting the footbrake lever position:
3
2
NOTE
Use the adjusting screw (3) to adjust the footbrake
lever position as desired by the client. A
WARNING
The adjustment dimension (A) may not exceed 18
mm.
1 SFM 675 019.3
- Loosen the lock-nut (2) and use the adjusting screw
(3) to adjust the position of the footbrake lever (1).
Adjustment dimension (A): max. of 18 mm.
- Tighten the lock-nut (2).
29
Fork-column bearing
Checking/adjusting the fork-column bearing play

Checking the fork-column bearing play:
- Put the motorcycle on sturdy standards and take the
weight off the front wheel.
- Take hold of the two fork pipes and try to move them to
and fro. If there is a noticeable play in the fork-column
bearing, it must be adjusted.
SFM 675 021.3
Adjusting the fork-column bearing play:

- Put the motorcycle on sturdy standards and take the
- Loosen the clamp screws (1) on the upper fork bridge.
- Remove the seat and fuel tank
- Loosen the closure nut (2).
2
- Use a sickle spanner to lightly tighten the adjusting nut
(3) until the fork-column bearing is free of play.
NOTE 1
While the front wheel is raised, the fork must fall lightly to the
left or right until it hits the stop.
1
If while moving the handlebar to and fro it locks in
3
some position/s, then the fork-column bearing must be SFM 675 022.3-1
replaced.
- Tighten the closing nut (2).

Tightening torque: 40 Nm
- Tighten the clamping screws (1) of the upper fork
bridge.
Tightening torque: 25-28 Nm
Cleaning and greasing the sealing ring

1. Put the motorcycle on sturdy standards and take the
2. Check that the fork-column bearing runs smoothly. If
it does not, or if it locks, remove the telescopic fork,
check the fork-column bearings and sealing rings for
damage, then clean, grease and - if necessary - re-
place them.
30
Charging the battery
After a long lay-up (3-4 months), charge the battery.

The charging current (in amperes) must not exceed
1/10th of the battery capacity (Ah). The battery must
not be fast-charged. The battery may only be charged
using a special charger approved for MF batteries.
Maintenance
Although the battery is maintenance-free. Never leave
the battery discharged. Keep the battery clean and
dry and make sure that the connection terminals are
firmly seated.
Removing and installing the battery

The battery (1) is located beneath the seat.
Remove the seat.

- Remove the screw (2) and remove the seat in a
rearwards direction (see the arrow).
CAUTION
The battery may only be connected or discon-
nected while the ignition is inactive.
First disconnect the minus terminal (black cable).
When installing the battery, first connect the plus
terminal (red cable). The battery is maintenance-
free. Do not try to open it.
Checking/charging the battery

2
- Check the battery fastening.
- Check that the battery cables (1 and 2) are cor-
rectly connected. 1
- Check the charging voltage, current loss, charged
condition
- charge the battery as necessary.
SFM 675 006.3-1
31
Fuel tank
Removing/installing the fuel tank 4
Removing the fuel tank:
1. Removing the seat. 3
2. Close the fuel cock (1), loosen the hose clamp
and pull off the fuel hose (2). 3
3. Remove the screw (3), washers and support
rings.
NOTE
When removing the fuel tank, be careful not to lose
the support bodies (rubber bearings).
When lowering the fuel tank, be careful not to dama-
ge the paint.
4. Remove the fuel tank (4).

Installing the fuel tank:
5. Reassemble in reverse order
1
2
SFM 675 026.3-1
Removing/installing the fuel cock

Removing the fuel cock:
1. Completely drain the fuel tank.
2. Loosen the hose clamps (3) and pull off the fuel
5
hose (4) and overflow hose (5).
3. Remove the fuel cock (1).
4. Clean the sieve (6). 2 3
6
4
Installing the fuel cock: 1
NOTE
In principle, the sealing ring (2) must be replaced. 3
5. Reassemble in reverse order.
SFM 675 027.3-1
32
Removing/installing the tank filler neck 1

1
1. Remove the screws (1) and the tank filler neck 5 2
(2). 4
2. Remove the seat (6) and sealing rings (7), then 6
check the sealing ring; replace, if necessary. 7
3. Remove the screws (3), cover (4) and gasket (5). 3
4. Check the gasket (5); replace, if necessary.
5. Install the gasket (5) and cover (4) and fasten
them with the screws (3).
NOTE SFM 675 028.3-1

When installing these, make sure that the bore hole
for the tank overflow is free.
6. Install the gasket (7), the seat (6) and the preas-
sembled tank filler neck (2); fasten with the screws
(1).
Removing/installing the front-wheel guard

2
Removing the front-wheel guard: 3
1. Pull off the speedometer-shaft holder (1). 2
2. Remove the screws (2) along with the washers.
1
NOTE
When lowering the front-wheel guard, be careful not
to damage the paint.
3. Remove the front-wheel guard (3).

Installing the front-wheel guard: SFM 675 029.3-1
33
Removing/installing the ignition fork-column

lock
Removing the ignition fork-column lock:

NOTE
The pull-off screws (3) must be opened using a centre � ��
punch or chisel.
1. Remove the full covering and headlamps. �
�
Disconnect the plug (1). �
2. Remove the pull-off screws (3) and remove the
ignition fork-column lock (2) from the fork bridge
(4).
Installing the ignition fork-column lock:

NOTE
Always use new pull-of f screws (3). �
Removing the cover holder:

�
1. Remove the full covering and headlamps.
2. Remove the screws (6) with washers (7) and nuts �
(8) and remove the cover holder (5).
Installing the cover holder:

��
34
35
Footrests
Removing/installing the front-right footrest
footbrake unit
16 15
Removing the front-right footrest/footbrake unit:
1. Remove the nut (1) with washer (2) and take out
12
the ball-and-socket joint (3) of the brake cylinder. 14
2. Remove the screw (4) with washer (5), and remove 13
the footrest (16) and footbrake lever (8) and sliding
bush (7) from the footrest support (6).
11
NOTE
10 1
The rubber support (9) of the footbrake lever (8) can 2 3
be replaced.
3. Remove the pin (15) and remove the washer (14)
and spring (13). 7
4. Remove the bolt (10) with washer (11) and remove
the footrest (16) from the seat (12) of the brake
9
lever (8). 8
Installing the front-right footrest/footbrake unit:
NOTE 6
In principle, use a new pin (15). 5
5. Reassemble in reverse order. 4
Removing/installing the front-left footrest

footbrake unit
SFM 675 035.3
Removing the front-left footrest/footbrake unit:

4
1. Remove the nut (1) with washer (2) and take out
the ball-and-socket joint from the foot-pedal rod 5
(3).
2. Remove the screw (4) with washer (5) and remove
the footrest (16) with the footbrake pedal lever (8) 6
and the sliding bush (7) from the footrest support 3
(6). 8
2
NOTE
1
The rubber seat (9) of the foot-pedal lever (8) can be
replaced. 7
17
3. Remove the pin (15) and remove the washer (14)
and spring (13). 17
4. Remove the bolt (10) with washer (11) and remove
the footrest (16) from the seat (12) of the foot-pedal 9
lever (8).
Installing the front-left footrest/footbrake unit: 15

NOTE
In principle, use a new pin (15). The foot-pe-
dal lever position can be adjusted. Loosen the
screw (17), pull of f the switching-lever rod (3) 14
and install it offset on the switching-shaft outlet. 12 13
Rotate the switching-lever rod (3) to obtain a fine
adjustment. 11
5. Reassemble in reverse order. 16
10
SFM 675 034.3
36
Removing/installing the rear footrests

Removing the rear footrests:
1. Remove the pin (8) and washer (9). 3
NOTE
When removing the footrest (4), be careful not to
lose the spring (5), ball (6) or plate (7) for the footrest
lock. 4
2. Remove the bolt (1) with washer (2) and remove 1
the footrest (4) with spring (5), ball (6) and plate 2
(7) of the footrest lock from the footrest support
(3). 5
Installing the rear footrest: 6
9 8 7
NOTE SFM 675 037.3-1
In principle, use a new pin (8).
3. Reassemble in reverse order
Removing/installing the half-handlebar 13 2

Removing the half-handlebar: 12 3 15
6 1
1. Remove the seat and the fuel tank.
2. Remove the left- and right-hand handlebar
fittings and the combination switches. 8
3. Separate the plug connection (14) from the 3
ignition lock and loosen the cable binder. 5
4. Remove the screws (4) with the washers 4
(5).
11
5. Remove the cover (15), then remove the 14
closing nut (1) and screws (3) and take off
the fork bridge (2) upwards.
11
6. Remove the screws (6) and from the
left-hand stand pipe (9) or from the right- 10 6
5
hand stand pipe (10) pull off the left-hand
half-handlebar (7) or the right-hand half- 4
handlebar (8) in an upward direction.
7
12
9 13
SFM 675 039.3-1
Installing the half-handlebar:

NOTE
The closing plugs (11 and 12) can be replaced.
When removing the closing plugs (12), the rivets (13)
must be bored.
While installing, push in the closing plugs (12) and
fasten them with the rivets (13).
Tightening torque for screw (1): 40 Nm

Tightening torque for screws (3): 40 Nm
Tightening torque for screws (4): 24-26 Nm
37
Removing/installing the left-hand handlebar mounting part
�
�
�
��
��
��
�
�
��
Removing the combination switch:

1. Remove the seat and the fuel tank.
2. Bore out the rivet (12) and take off the handlebar plug 11).
NOTE
Push a screwdriver between the rubber grip (10) and the handlebar pipe (1) and spray in tyre-mounting fluid.
3. Pull off the rubber grip (10).
4. Disconnect the choke cable (9) and remove the choke lever (8).
5. Separate the plug connection from the combination switch (5) and disconnect the cable binder.
6. Remove the screws (6 and 7) and take the combination switch (5) off the handlebar (1).
Installing the combination switch

Removing the clutch fittings:

8. Disconnect the clutch cable (13).
9. Remove the screws (4) and remove the holder (3) and clutch fittings (2).
Installing the clutch fittings:

38
Removing/installing the right-hand handlebar mounting part
�
�
��
�
� �
��
� �
��
��
��
��
Removing the combination switch:

1. Remove the seat and fuel tank
2. Separate the plug connections from the combination switch (3), separate the cable binder.
3. Remove the screws (2), disconnect the cable (4), then remove the combination switch (3) and the throttle (1) from the half-
handlebar (13).
Installing the combination switch:

Connect the cable (4) and adjust it.
Removing the brake fitting:

CAUTION
Brake fluid damages paint and plastic parts.
Use new brake fluid of specification DOT 4.
5. Separate the cable (14) from the brake-light switch.
6. Remove the screw (9) and the brake-fluid container (15).
7. Remove the banjo bolt (10) with sealing rings (11) and seal the brake line (12).
8. Remove the screws (7 and 8) and take off the holder (6) and brake fitting (5).
Installing the brake fitting:

NOTE
In principle, the sealing rings (11) of the brake-line connection must be replaced.
10. Top up the brake fluid and vent the brake system.
39
Checking/adjusting the headlamp
Position the motorcycle on a level floor 5 m in front of
12cm
a light-coloured wall (measured from the headlamp)
with the rider seated on the bike and the tyres at the
correct pressure.
- Measure the distance from the floor to the centre
of the headlamp (H) then mark this distance on H
the wall with a cross. Draw a second cross 12 cm
underneath the first cross.
- Start the motorcycle and allow the engine to run. 5m
H
WARNING - RISK OF ASPHYXIATION

Do not run the engine in an enclosed space! Risk SFM 680 099.3
of asphyxiation.
Adjusting the headlight

- Activate the dipped beam.
Use the adjusting screw (1 and 2) to adjust the angle
of the asymmetrically illuminated surface area of
the road top.
screw 1 = height adjustment
screw 2 = side adjustment
40
Checking the tyre profile and pressure Checking the rear-wheel telescopic leg for opera-
tion and leaks
Checking the tyre profile:
- Firmly push down on the rear of the motorcycle
WARNING - RISK OF ON-ROAD ACCIDENT several times. The rear-wheel telescopic leg must
Observe the legally prescribed minimum-profile move in and out evenly without deformation.
depth. - Check the rear-wheel telescopic leg for leaks, and
the springs and fastening points for damage.
- Measure the profile depth.
Recommended minimum profile depth:
2.5 mm Checking the control cables for damage and smooth
operation
- If the profile depth is less than the minimum, replace
the tyre. - Check the choke, throttle and clutch cables for da-
mage and smooth operation. Damaged or obstructed
Check the tyre pressure: cables must be replaced.
Air pressure solo with passenger - Adjust the cables.
Front 1.9 bar 1.9 bar Checking/greasing the side standard

Rear 2.1 bar 2.3 bar
- Check springs, fastening screws for firm seats.
The side standard must independently fold back.
- Grease all moving parts.
Checking the wheels for damage
- Check the wheels for any damage; replace if neces- Checking/repairing the exhaust system
sary.
- Check exhaust manifolds, silencers and gaskets for
- Requirements for the check: the column top bea- leaks; replace any faulty parts.
ring, rear-wheel swing bearings, shock absorbers - Check rubber bearings for damage; replace, if ne-
and tyres should be in order. Take a test ride. If the cessary.
wheels/chassis do/does not move smoothly, align the
wheels and check for wobble and height damage. - Tighten nuts and screws.
Tightening torques:
Exhaust manifold cylinders: 15 Nm
End silencer fastening: 10 Nm
Checking the wheel bearings for play and damage Exhaust fastening (rubber bearing): 20 Nm
- Put the motorcycle on its standard, then check the
wheel bearings by pushing the wheel to and fro Checking the rear-wheel vibration bearing
to check for play. The bearings should not have a
noticeable play; if play is noticeable, the bearings - Check the rear-wheel swing bearing for smooth
must be replaced. operation and wear; if necessary, replace the swing
bearing.
- Rotate the wheel by hand.
The wheel bearings should run evenly rather than Final inspection
roughly. Wheel bearings which run roughly must
be replaced. - Prepare for traffic safety: check the clutch, gear
shifting, idle speed, handbrake and footbrake,
handlebar control, indicator lights, light and signal
systems; adjust as necessary.
- Check the tyre pressure; adjust if necessary.
- Take a test ride.
41
Removing/installing the exhaust system

��
��
�
��
��
��
��
��
��
��
��
��
��
��
�
�
�
�
� �
�
��
��
��
Removing the exhaust system:

1. Hang out the spring (1).
2. Remove screws (2) with washers (3).
3. Remove screws (4) with washers (5), nut (6) and remove the exhaust pipe (7).
4. Hang out the spring (7).
5. Remove the screws (8), rubber bearing (9) with washers (10) and nuts (11).
6. Remove the exhaust pipe (12) and muffler (13).
Installing the exhaust system::

NOTE
Before reinstalling, check the rubber bearings (14 and 9) and replace if necessary.
In principle, the gasket must be replaced.
7. Reassemble in reserve order.
Tightening torque::
Screws (2): 22-25 Nm
Screw (4): 22-25 Nm
Screws (9): 10 Nm
42
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
The procedure for engine disassembly is sequentially
explained in the following steps.
- Remove the cylinder head cover (2).

- Remove the spark plug.
- Remove the valve timing inspection plug (3) and

generator cover cap (4).
- Rotate the crankshaft and align the „T‘ line on the

generator rotor with the center of the hole in the
generator cover.
- Remove the cam chain tension adjuster cap and

insert a flat-head screwdriver into the slotted
end of the cam chain tension adjuster. Turn the
screwdriver clockwise to lock the spring tension.
- Remove the cam chain tension adjuster.
43
- Remove the camshaft holders.
- Remove the intake(1) and exhaust (2) camshafts.

- Remove the cam chain guide (3).
- Remove the engine oil pipe (4).
- Remove the cylinder head (5) by removing the

bolts and nuts.
- Remove the cylinder head gasket.

Remove the cylinder (6) by removing the cylinder
base nuts.
44
- Remove the cylinder gasket.

- Place a clean rag over the cylinder base to prevent
the piston pin circlip (1) from dropping into the
crankcase. Then, remove the piston pin circlip with
long-nose pliers.
- Remove the piston pin using the special tools.
Tool: 09910-34510: Piston pin puller
- Remove the piston.
- Remove the starter motor (2).
- Remove the clutch cover (3).
- While holding the generator rotor nut, remove

the clutch spring mounting bolts in a crisscross
pattern, and remove the clutch springs and clutch
pressure plate (4).
45
- Remove the clutch release rack (1) and clutch

release bearing (2) from the clutch pressure
plate.
- Remove the clutch drive and driven plates.
- Flatten the lock washer (3) and remove the clutch

sleeve hub nut using the special tool.
Tool: 09920-53740: Clutch sleeve hub holder
- Remove the thrust washer (4) and primary driven

gear assembly (5).
- Remove the spacer (6) and washer (7).
46
- Remove the gearshift shaft (1) and washer (2).
- Remove the gearshift cam plate (3) by removing

the gearshift cam plate bolt (4).
- Remove the gearshift cam stopper arm (5) by
removing the gearshift cam stopper arm shaft and
nut.
- Remove the generator cover (6).
- Remove the strator coil (7) and pick-up coil (8).
- Remove the spacer (9), shaft (10), starter idle

gear (11) and oil sump filter (12).
47
CAUTION
The nut (1) has a lefthand thread. Turning
anticlockwise may cause damage.
- Remove the primary drive gear nut (1) using the

special tool.
Tool: 09930-44512: Rotor holder
- Remove the washers (2) and primary drive gears

(3).
- Remove the key (4) and oil pump drive gear (5).
- Remove the E-ring (6) and oil pump driven gear

(7).
- Remove the spacer (8), pin (9) and oil pump (10).
- Remove the balancer shaft bolt and washer using

the special tool.
- Remove the generator rotor nut using the special

tool.
48
- Remove the generator rotor (1) using the special

tool.
Tool: 09930-34951: Rotor remover
- Remove the generator rotor key (2).

- Remove the cam chain (3).
- Remove the cam chain tensioner guide (4).
- Remove the oil seal retainer (5) and engine

sprocket spacer (6).
- Remove the gear position switch (7).
- Remove the gear position switch contact (8),

spring (9) and O-ring (10).
- Remove the crankcase bolts.
49
- Separate the right and left crankcases using the

special tool.
Tool: 09920-13120: Crankcase separator
- Remove the gearshift fork shafts (1) gearshift

forks (2) and gearshift cam (3).
- Remove the transmission.
- Remove the washer (4) and kick starter drive gear

(5).
- Remove the kick starter guide bolts and kick

starter shaft (6) along with the kick starter (7).
50
- Remove the crankshaft driven gears along with

the balancershaft.
- Remove the crankshaft using the special tool.

Tool: 09920-13120: Crankcase separator
51
ENGINE COMPONENTS INSPECTION AND

A
SERVICE
A
BEARINGS
BEARING INSPECTION
While the bearing is in the crankcase, rotate its inner
race and check to see that it turns smoothly. If it does
not turn quietly and smoothly, or if there are signs of
any abnormalities, the bearing is defective and must
be replaced as follows.
A = Play
LEFT DRIVESHAFT BEARING
- Remove the bearing retainer (1).
- Remove the oil seal using the special tool.
Tool: 09913-50121: Oil seal remover
CAUTION
The removed oil seal should be replaced with a
new one.
- Remove the washer (2).
- Remove the left driveshaft bearing using the

special tool.
Tool: 09922-55131: Countershaft remover
CAUTION
The removed bearing should be replaced with a
new one.
- Install the left driveshaft bearing using the special

tool.
Tool: 09913-75810: Bearing installer
52
- Install the oil seal using the special tool.

- Apply a small quantity of SUZUKI SUPER
GREASE "A" to the lip of the oil seal.
SUZUKI SUPER GREASE "A"
- Tighten the bearing retainer screws to the

specified torque.
Bearing retainer screw: 8.5 Nm
RIGHT DRIVESHAFT BEARING

Remove the right driveshaft bearing using the special
tool.
Tool: 09943-88211: Pinion bearing installer
CAUTION
new one.
- Install the right driveshaft bearing using the

special tool.
LEFT COUNTERSHAFT BEARING

- Remove the left countershaft bearing using the
special tools.
Tool: 09921-20210: Bearing remover

Sliding hammer
CAUTION
new one.
53
- Install the left countershaft bearing using the

special tool.
Tool: 09913-75821: Bearing installer attachment
RIGHT COUNTERSHAFT BEARING

- Remove the right countershaft bearing using the
special tool.
CAUTION
now one.
- Install the right countershaft bearing using the

special tool.
- Align the recesses (2) on the bearing retainer with

the lug (3) on the right crankcase.
specified torque.
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS
- Remove the left and right crankshaft bearings
using the special tool.
CAUTION
The removed bearings should be replaced with
new ones.
54
- Install the left and right crankshaft bearings using

the special tool.
BALANCER SHAFT BEARINGS

- Remove the left balancer shaft bearing (1).
CAUTION
new one.
- Remove the right balancer shaft bearing using the

special tool.
CAUTION
now one.
- Install the left and right balancer shaft bearings

using the special tool.
GEARSHIFT CAM BEARING

- Remove the gearshift cam bearing using the
special tool.
CAUTION
new one.
55
- Install the gearshift cam bearing using the special

tool.

specified torque.
CYLINDER HEAD
DISASSEMBLY
- Remove the intake pipe (1).
CAUTION
The removed 0-ring (2) should be replaced with a
new one.
- Remove the tappets (2) and shims (4) by hand or

with a magnet.
56
- Compress the valve spring and remove the valve

cotters (1) from the valve stem using the special
tools.
Tool: 09916-14510: Valve lifter

09916-14530: Valve lifter attachment
Tweezers
- Remove the valve spring retainer (2), valve spring

(3) and valve spring seat (4).
- Pull out the valve (5) through the opposite side.
NOTE
Removing the valves completes normal disassembly.
If the valve guides need to be removed for replacement
after related parts have beeen checked, follow the
steps referring to servicing the valve guide.
CYLINDER HEAD DISTORTION

Decarbonize the combustion chamber.
Check the gasket surface of the cylinder head for
distortion using a straightedge and thickness gauge.
Take clearance readings at several places. If readings
exceed the service limit, replace the cylinder head.

Service Limit: 0.05 mm
VALVE FACE WEAR

The thickness of the valve face decreases as the
face wears. Visually inspect each valve face for wear
and replace any valve with an abnormally worn face.
Measure the valve face thickness (T). If it is out of
specification, replace the valve with a new one.
Tool: Vernier calipers

57
VALVE STEM RUN OUT

Support the valve using V-blocks, as shown, and
measure, its run out with the dial gauge. If the run out
exceeds the limit, replace the valve.
Tool:
Magnetic stand
Dial gauge (1/100 mm)
V-block set (100 mm)
VALVE HEAD RADIAL RUN OUT

Place the dial gauge at a right angle to the valve head
face and measure the valve head radial run out.
If it measures more than the service limit, replace the
valve.
Tool:
Magnetic stand
VALVE STEM DEFLECTION

Lift the valve about 10 mm from the valve seat.
Measure the valve stem deflection in two directions,
"X" and "Y", perpendicular to each other. Position the
dial gauge as shown. If the deflection exceeds the
service limit, then determine whether the valve or the
guide should be replaced with a new one.
Tool:
Magnetic stand
Service Limit
Intake and exhaust valves: 0.35 mm
VALVE STEM WEAR

Measure the valve stem O.D. using the micrometer.
If it is out of specification, replace the valve with a
new one. If the valve stem O.D. is within specification
but the valve stem deflection is not, replace the valve
guide. After replacing the valve or valve guide, re
check the clearance.
Tool: Micrometer (0-25 mm)
Standard
Valve stem O.D. IN.: 4.475-4.490 mm
EX.: 4.455-4.470 mm
NOTE
If valve guides have to be replaced, refer to the valve
guide servicing steps below.
58
VALVE GUIDE SERVICE

- Remove the valve guide using the special tool.
Tool 09916-43210: Valve guide installer
NOTE
Discard the removed valve guide subassemblies.
Only oversized valve guides are available as
replacement parts.
- Re-finish the valve guide hole in the cylinder head

using the special tools.
Tool 09916-34580: Valve guide reamer (10.8 mm),

handle
NOTE
Insert the reamer from the combustion chamber side
and always turn the reamer handle clockwise.
- Install a ring (1) onto each valve guide (2).

- Oil the stem hole of each valve guide and drive the
guide into the guide hole using the special tool.
2
Tool 09916-43210: Valve guide installer
1
CAUTION
Be sure to use a new valve guide ring and valve
guide.
- After installing the valve guides, re-finish their

guiding bores using the special tools. Be sure to
clean and oil the guides after reaming.
Tool 09916-33210: Valve guide reamer (4.5 mm)

Handle
VALVE SEAT WIDTH

- Coat the valve seat uniformly with Prussian blue.
Install the valve and attach a valve lapper onto it.
Tap the coated seat with the valve face in a rotating
manner, in order to obtain a clear impression of
the seating contact.
59
- The ring-like dye impression left on the valve

face must be continuous without any breaks. In
addition, the width of the dye ring, which is the
valve seat width, must be within the following
specification:
Standard
Valve seat width (w): 0.9-1.1 mm
If the valve seat is out of specification, recut the

seat.
VALVE SEAT SERVICE

The valve seats for both intake and exhaust valves
are machined to four different angles. (The seat INTAKE EXHAUST
contact surface is cut 45°.)
INTAKE SIDE EXHAUST SIDE

45° N-131 45° N-131 VALVE SEAT VALVE SEAT
30° N-126 15° N-130

60° N-111
Tool:
09916-21110: Valve seat cutter set
09916-24410: Valve seat cutter (N-111)
09916-20640: Solid pilot (N-100-4.5)
NOTE
The valve seat contact area must be inspected after
each cut.
- When installing the solid pilot (1), rotate it slightly.

Seat the pilot snugly. Install the 45° cutter,
attachment and T- handle.
- Using the 45° cutter, descale and clean up the
seat. Rotate the cutter one or two turns.
- Measure the valve seat width after every cut. If the
valve seat is pitted or burned, use the 45° cutter to
condition the seat some more.
NOTE
Cut only the minimum amount necessary from the
seat to avoid having to replace the tappet shim.
If the contact area is too high on the valve, or if it is
too wide, use the 15° cutter (for the exhaust side) and
the 30°/ 60° cutters (for the intake side) to lower and
narrow the contact area.
60
If the contact area is too low or too narrow, use the

45° cutter to raise and widen the contact area.
- After the desired seat position and width is

achieved, use the 45° cutter very lightly to clean
up any burrs caused by the previous cutting
operations.
CAUTION
DO NOT use lapping compound after the final cut
is made. The finished valve seat should have a
velvety smooth finish and not a highly polished
or shiny finish. This will provide a soft surface
for the final seating of the valve which will occur
during the first few seconds of engine operation.
- Clean and assemble the head and valve

components. Fill the intake and exhaust ports
with gasoline to check for leaks. If any leaks
occur, inspect the valve seat and face for burrs
or other things that could prevent the valve from
sealing.
WARNING
Always use extreme caution when handling
gasoline.
NOTE
After servicing the valve seats, be sure to check
the tappet clearance after the cylinder has been
reinstalled.
VALVE SPRINGS
Check the valve springs for proper strength by
measuring their free length and also the force
required to compress them. If the spring length is
less than the service limit or if the force required to
compress the spring does not fall within the specified
range, replace the spring.
Service Limit
Valve spring free length: 37.8 mm
Standard
Valve spring tension: 12.1-13.9 kg / 33.7 mm
61
REASSEMBLY
Reassemble the cylinder head in the reverse order of
disassembly. Pay attention to the following points:
- Install each valve spring seat (1).
- Lubricate the valve stem seal with oil, and press-fit

the seal into position by hand.
CAUTION
Do not reuse the valve stem seals.
- Insert the valves with their stems coated with high

quality molybdenum disulfide lubricant (SUZUKI
MOLY PASTE). Coat the entire stem making sure
that there are no gaps.
Also, be sure to oil the valve stem seal lip.
SUZUKI MOLY PASTE
CAUTION
When inserting each valve, take care not to
damage the lip of the stem seal.
- Install the valve springs with the smaller pitch (A)

facing the cylinder head.
Towards
Head
62
- Install the valve spring retainer (1), press down

the spring using the valve lifter and then install
the cotter halves onto the valve stem end. Then,
release the valve lifter to allow the cotter (2) to
wedge between the retainer and the valve stem.
Be sure that the rounded lip (3) of the cotter fits
snugly into the groove (4) in the stem end.
Tool 09916-14510: Valve lifter

09916-14530: Valve lifter attachment
Tweezers
CAUTION
Be sure to install all of the parts in their original
positions.
NOTE
Apply engine oil to the tappet shim and tappet before
installing them.
CAMSHAFT
CAMSHAFT INSPECTION
If the engine produces abnormal noises, vibration or
lacks power, a camshaft may be distorted or worn
to the service limit. The camshaft runout should be
checked. Also, check the cams and journals for wear
or damage.
The exhaust camshaft has the embossed letters "EX"
and the intake camshaft has the embossed letters
"IN".
CAM WEAR
Worn-down cams are often the cause of mistimed
valve operation resulting in reduced power output.
Measure the cam height (H) using the micrometer.
Replace a camshaft if the cams are worn to the
service limit.
Service Limit
Cam height (H) IN: 34.650 mm
EX: 33.950 mm
63
CAMSHAFT JOURNAL WEAR

Determine whether or not each journal is worn down
to the limit by measuring the oil clearance with the
camshaft installed in place. Measure the clearance
using the plastigauge (1).
Tool 09900-22302: Plastigauge
NOTE
Install each camshaft journal holder to its original
position. Tighten the camshaft journal holder bolts
evenly and diagonally to the specified torque.
Camshaft journal holder bolt: 10 Nm
NOTE
Do not rotate the camshafts with the plastigauge in
place.
Remove the camshaft journal holders and measure
the width of the compressed plastigauge using the
envelope scale. This measurement should be taken
at the widest part of the compressed plastigauge.
Service Limit
Camshaft-Journal oil clearance (IN & EX):
0.150 mm
If the camshaft journal oil clearance exceeds the

limit, measure the inside diameter of the camshaft
journal holder and the outside diameter of the
camshaft journal. Replace the camshaft or the
cylinder head depending upon which one exceeds
the specification.
Tool: Small bore gauge
Standard
Camshaft journal holder I.D. (IN & EX):
22.012-22.025 mm
Standard
Camshaft journal O.D. (IN & EX):
21.959-21.980 mm
64
CAMSHAFT RUNOUT
Measure the runout using a dial gauge. Replace the
camshaft if the runout exceeds the limit.
Tool: Dial gauge (1/100 mm)

Magnetic stand
Service Limit
Camshaft runout (IN & EX): 0.10 mm
CAM SPROCKET
- When installing each camshaft sprocket to each
camshaft, align, mark "I" with notch (1) and pin (2)
on the intake camshaft, or mark "E" with notch (3)
and pin (4) on the exhaust camshaft.
- Apply THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303" to the
threads of the camshaft sprocket bolts and tighten
them to the specified torque.
THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303"
Camshaft sprocket bolt: 11 Nm
- Be sure to bend the tabs on the camshaft sprocket

lock washer so the bolts lock.
CAM CHAIN TENSION ADJUSTER

The cam chain tension adjuster is maintained at
the proper tension by an automatically adjusted
tensioner.
Insert a flat-head screwdriver into the slotted end of
the cam chain tension adjuster and turn it clockwise
to release the tension. Remove the screwdriver to
make sure that the push rod moves properly. If the
push rod is stuck or the spring mechanism does
not work, replace the cam chain tension adjuster
assembly with a new one.
CYLINDER
DISTORTION
Check the gasket surface of the cylinder for distortion
using a straightedge and thickness gauge. Take
clearance readings at several places. If any reading
exceeds the service limit, replace the cylinder.
65
CYLINDER BORE
Measure the cylinder bore diameter at six places.
If any one of the measurements exceed the limit,
overhaul the cylinder and replace the piston with an
oversize piston, or replace the cylinder.
Tool: Cylinder gauge set
PISTON AND PISTON PIN

DIAMETER
Measure the piston diameter using the micrometer at
15 mm from the skirt end.
If the piston diameter is less than the service limit,
replace the piston.

Piston oversize: 0.5, 1.0 mm
PISTON-CYLINDER CLEARANCE
Subtract the piston diameter from the cylinder bore
diameter. If the piston-to-cylinder clearance exceeds
the service limit, rebore the cylinder and use an
oversize piston or replace both the cylinder and the
piston.
PISTON RING-GROOVE CLEARANCE

Measure the side clearances of the 1st and 2nd
piston rings using the thickness gauge. If any of the
clearances exceed the limit, replace both the piston
and piston rings.

Micrometer (0-25 mm)
Service Limit
Piston ring-groove clearance
1st: 0.18 mm
2nd: 0.15 mm
Piston ring groove width

1st: 1.01-1.03 mm
2nd: 1.01-1.03 mm
Oil: 2.01-2.03 mm
Piston ring thickness 1st and 2nd: 0.97-0.99 mm
NOTE
Remove any carbon from the piston crown and ring
grooves using soft-metal scraper.
66
PISTON RING END GAP

Fit the piston ring squarely into the cylinder and
measure the piston ring end gap using a thickness
gauge.
If the piston ring‘s end gap is out of specification,
replace the piston ring.
Service Limit
Piston ring end gap 1st and 2nd: 0.50 mm
OVERSIZE RINGS
Oversize piston ring
The following oversize piston ring is used. It bears the
following identification number.
Piston ring 1st and 2nd 0.5 mm: 50
1.0 mm: 100
Oversize oil ring

The following oversize oil ring is used. It bears the
following identification mark.
Oil ring 0.5 mm: Painted red

1.0 mm: Painted yellow
A = Paint
Oversize side rail

Measure the outside diameter to identify the size.
Oil ring spacer
PIN BORE
Measure the piston pin bore inside diameter using
the dial calipers and measure the piston pin outside
diameter using the micrometer. If either is out of
specification or the difference between these two
measurements is more than the limits, replace both
the piston and piston pin.
Tool: Dial calipers

Micrometer (0-25 mm)
Service Limit
Piston pin bore: 15.030 mm
Piston pin O.D.: 14.980 mm
67
CRANKSHAFT AND CONROD
1 Balancer drive gear

2 Key
3 Pin
4 Crankshaft, RH
5 Conrod
6 Bearing
7 Crank Pin
8 Crankshaft, RH
CONROD SMALL END I.D.

Measure the conrod small end inside diameter
using the dial calipers. If the conrod small end inside
diameter exceeds the service limit, replace the
conrod.
Tool: Dial calipers
68
CONROD DEFLECTION AND CONROD BIG END

SIDE CLEARANCE
Wear on the big end of the conrod can be estimated
by checking the movement of the small end of the rod.
This method can also check the extent of wear on the
parts of the conrod‘s big end.
Tool: Magnetic stand

Dial gauge (11100 mm)
Push the big end of the conrod to one side and

measure the side clearance using a thickness
gauge.
Standard: 0.10-0.45 mm
If the service limit is exceeded, replace the crankshaft

assembly or bring the deflection and side clearance
into specification by replacing the worn parts (e.g.,
conrod, big end bearing and crank pin).
CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT
Support the crankshaft with V-blocks as shown.
Position the dial gauge, as shown, and rotate the
crankshaft slowly to read the runout. Correct the
runout or replace the crankshaft assembly if the
runout is greater than the service limit.
Tool: Magnetic stand

REASSEMBLY
- When rebuilding the crankshaft, the width between
the webs should be within the standard range.
Standard width between webs (A): 53±0.1 mm
69
BALANCER SHAFT AND CRANKSHAFT DRIVEN GEARS
1 Balancer shaft
2 Key
3 Driven gear set
DISASSEMBLY
- Remove the crankshaft driven gears.
- Remove the circlip and washer using the special

tool.
Tool: Snap ring pliers
- Separate crankshaft driven gear No. 2 (1),

crankshaft driven gear No.1 (2) and the springs
(3).
70
Inspect the balancer shaft and key for wear or

damage.
REASSEMBLY
Reassemble the balancer shaft and crankshaft
driven gears in the reverse order of disassembly. Pay
attention to the following points:
- Install the spring washer (1) and circlip (2) using
the special tool.
Tool: Snap ring pliers
STARTER CLUTCH AND STARTER DRIVEN GEAR BEARING
1 Starter driven gear

2 Bearing
3 Starter clutch
4 Generator rotor
STARTER CLUTCH
Install the starter driven gear onto the starter clutch
and turn the starter driven gear by hand (the gear
turns in only one direction). The starter driven gear
should turn smoothly. If excessive resistance is felt
while turning the starter driven gear, inspect the
starter clutch. Also, inspect the surface of the starter
driven gear which contacts the starter clutch, for wear
or damage. If any wear or damage is found, replace
the defective parts.
71
STARTER DRIVEN GEAR BEARING

Install the starter driven gear bearing and gear
onto the crankshaft and turn the starter driven gear
by hand. Inspect the starter driven gear bearing
for smooth rotation and any abnormal noise. If the
bearing does not turn smoothly or there is any
abnormal noise, replace it.
DISASSEMBLY
- Hold the generator rotor with the rotor holder and
remove the starter clutch bolts.
Tool:
Z 90 890 01701: Rotor holder
REASSEMBLY
- Apply a small quantity of THREAD LOCK SUPER
"1303" to the starter clutch bolts and tighten them
to the specified torque while holding the rotor
holder.
Starter clutch bolt: 10 Nm
72
TRANSMISSION
DISASSEMBLY
- Disassemble the transmission gears as shown in the illustration.
NOTE
When removing the 2nd drive gear, use a gear puller and a proper attachment.
1 Countershaft
2 5th drive gear
3 3rd/4th drive gear
4 2nd drive gear
5 Driveshaft
6 2nd driven gear
7 3rd driven gear
8 4th driven gear
9 5th driven gear
10 1st (low) driven gear
REASSEMBLY
Assemble the countershaft and driveshaft in the reverse order of disassembly. Pay attention to the following points:
NOTE
Before installing the gears, lightly coat the driveshaft and countershaft with moly paste or engine oil.
SUZUKI MOLY PASTE
CAUTION
Never reuse a circlip. After a circlip has been removed from a shaft, it should be discarded and a new circlip
must be installed.
When installing a now circlip, do not expand the end gap larger than required to slip the circlip over the
shaft.
After installing a circlip, make sure that it is completely seated in its groove and securely fitted.
73
- When installing a new circlip, pay attention to the direction of the

circlip. Fit the circlip to the side where the thrust is, as shown in the
illustration. The rounded side should be against the gear surface.
Thrust
Sharp edge
- Press fit the 2nd drive gear onto the countershaft. Before
reassembling, coat the internal face of the 2nd drive gear with
THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303" and install the gears so that the
length (A) is as shown.
Countershaft length (A): 88.0 +0.1/0.0 mm

(1st to 2nd)
NOTE
Take care not to smear THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303" onto the 5th
(top) drive gear.
This procedure may be performed only twice before shaft replacement
is required.
Assembling view transmission
74
GEARSHIFT FORKS
Measure the gearshift fork clearance in the groove of
its respective gear using the thickness gauge.
The clearance for each of the two gearshift forks plays
an important role in the smoothness and positiveness
of the shifting action. Each fork has its prongs fitted
into the annular groove provided in its gear. During
operation there is sliding contact between the fork
and gear and, when a shifting action is initiated, the
fork pushes the gear axially. If the clearance is too
great, the meshed gears may slip apart.
If the clearance exceeds the specification, replace the
fork, its respective gear or both.
Service Limit
Gearshift fork to groove clearance: 0.5 mm
Standard
Gearshift fork groove width No.1: 5.0-5.1 mm
No.3: 5.5-5.6 mm
Gearshift fork thickness No.1: 4.8-4.9 mm

No.3: 5.3-5.4 mm
PRIMARY DRIVE GEARS

DISASSEMBLY
- Separate primary drive gear No. 1 (1), No. 2 (2)
and the springs (3).
REASSEMBLY
- Align the punch mark (4) in primary drive gear No. 2
with the groove (5) in primary drive gear No. 1.
75
CLUTCH
CLUTCH DRIVE PLATES
Measure the thickness of the clutch drive plates using
vernier calipers. If a clutch drive plate is not within the
service limit, replace the clutch plates as a set.
Service Limit
Thickness: 2.6 mm
Claw width: 11.0 mm
CLUTCH DRIVEN PLATES

Measure each clutch driven plate for distortion using
the thickness gauge. If a clutch driven plate is not
within the service limit, replace the clutch plates as
a set.
CLUTCH SPRING FREE LENGTH

Measure the free length of each clutch spring using
vernier calipers. If any spring is not within the service
limit, replace all of the springs.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING

Inspect the clutch release bearing for any abnormality,
especially cracks. When removing the bearing from
the clutch, decide whether it can be reused or if it
should be replaced.
Smooth engagement and disengagement of the
clutch depends on the condition of this bearing.
76
ENGINE REASSEMBLY
Reassemble the engine in the reverse order of
disassembly. The following steps require special
attention or precautionary measures should be
taken.
COUTION
Apply engine oil to each running and sliding part
before reassembling.
CRANKSHAFT
- When installing the crankshaft into the crankcase,
it is necessary to pull its left end into the left
crankcase using the special tools.
- Apply engine oil to the crankshaft bearings.
Tool: 09910-32812: Crankshaft installer

09910-20116: Conrod holder
09911-11310: Attachment
CAUTION
Never install the crankshaft into the crankcase
by striking it with a plastic hammer. Always use
the special tool, otherwise the crankshaft may be
misaligned.
BALANCER SHAFT
- Align the punch mark (1) in the drive gear with the
hole (2) in the driven gear.
77
KICK STARTER SHAFT

�
�
1 Kick starter shaft
2 Kick starter
3 Spring �
4 Spring
�
5 Spring guide
6 Kick starter drive gear
- Align the punch mark (1) in the kick starter shaft

with the punch mark (2) in the kick starter.
- Turn the kick starter shaft counterclockwise and

then lock the kick starter with the kick starter
guide.
- Install the kick starter drive gear (3) and washer

(4).
78
GEARSHIFT CAM AND GEARSHIFT FORKS

- Install the transmission.
- Install the gearshift forks and gearshift cam.
(1): Gearshift fork No.1
(2): Gearshift fork No.3
- Install the gearshift fork shafts (3, 4).
- Wipe both crankcase mating surfaces with a

cleaning solvent.
- Apply SUZUKI BOND NO.1215 uniformly to
the mating surface of the right crankcase and
assemble the cases within a few minutes.
SUZUKI BOND NO. 1215
- Install the dowel pins (1) into the left half of the
crankcase.
- Apply engine oil to the conrod big end and
transmission gears.
NOTE
When bolting the right and left hand crankcase
housing tighten the screws only lightly once after the
other, in order to generate even pressure.
- Tighten the crankcase bolts to the specified

torque.
Crankcase bolt: 10 Nm
79
NOTE
After the crankcase bolts have been tightened, make
sure that the crankshaft rotates smoothly.
If the crankshaft does not rotate smoothly, try to free it
by tapping the driveshaft or countershaft with a plastic
hammer.
GEAR POSITION SWITCH

- Install the spring (1) and gear position switch
contact (2) and new O-ring (3).
- Install the gear position switch.
ENGINE SPROCKET SPACER

- Apply SUZUKI SUPER GREASE "A" to the O-ring
(1) of the engine sprocket spacer and the oil seal
lip (2), and then install the engine sprocket spacer
onto the driveshaft.
CAUTION
Use a new O-ring (1).
- Install the oil seal retainer (3).
CAM CHAIN, CAM CHAIN TENSIONER GUIDE

AND GENERATOR ROTOR
- Engage the cam chain (1) onto the cam chain
drive sprocket.
- Install the cam chain tensioner guide (2) and
tighten the bolt.
- Remove any grease from the tapered portion of

the generator rotor and crankshaft.
- Install the generator rotor key (3).
80
- Install the generator rotor securely.

generator rotor nut and tighten it to the specified
torque using the special tool.
Generator rotor nut: 80 Nm
OIL JET
- Install the oil jet.
BALANCER SHAFT BOLT

- Tighten the balancer shaft bolt to the specified

Balancer shaft bolt: 50 Nm
OIL PUMP AND PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR

- Install the spacer (1) onto the crankshaft.
- Apply engine oil onto the sliding surfaces of the
oil pump case, outer rotor, inner rotor and shaft,
before mounting the oil pump (2).
- Apply a small quantity of THREAD LOCK "1342" to
the oil pump mounting screws and tighten them.
THREAD LOCK "1342"

- Install the pin (3).
- Install the oil pump driven gear (4) and E-ring (5).
81
- Install the key (1) and the oil pump drive gear (2).
NOTE
Position the spacer (3) and oil pump drive gear (2), as
shown in the illustration.
- Install the primary drive gears (4), washer (5),

spring washer (6) and primary drive gear nut (7),
as shown in the illustration.
NOTE
The primary drive gear nut (7) has left-hand threads.
- Tighten the primary drive gear nut to the specified

Tool: 09930-44512. Rotor holder
Primary drive gear nut: 50 Nm
GEARSHIFT SHAFT AND RELATION PARTS

�
1 Gearshift shaft �
2 Return spring
�
3 Gearshift cam plate
4 Gearshift arm
5 Spring
A Gearshift arm stopper

�
B Gearshift cam plate bolt �
C Gearshift cam stopper arm shaft
ITEM Nm
A 19
B 10
C 10
�
�
�
82

threads of the gearshift cam stopper arm shaft
and tighten it to the specified torque.

Gearshift cam stopper arm shaft: 10 Nm
- Align the hole (1) in the gearshift cam plate with

the gearshift cam pin (2).
- Tighten the gearshift cam plate bolt (3) to the

specified torque.
Gearshift cam plate bolt: 10 Nm
- Install the washer (4) and gearshift shaft (5).
- Properly install the gearshift spring (6) onto the

gearshift arm stopper (7).
NOTE
When installing the gearshift arm stopper (7), apply
a small quantity of THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303" to
its threads and tighten to the specified torque.
Gearshift arm stopper: 19 Nm
83
CLUTCH
� �
�
�
�
�
��
1 Clutch pressure plate
2 Clutch release bearing
3 Clutch release rack
4 Clutch drive plate
5 Clutch driven plate
6 Damper
7 Clutch sleeve hub
8 Primary driven gear
�
- Install the washer (1) and spacer (2) onto the

countershaft.
NOTE
Apply engine oil to the inside and outside surfaces of
the spacer.
- Install the primary driven gear assembly (3) and

thrust washer (4) onto the countershaft.
NOTE
When engaging the primary drive and driven
gears, turn the primary driven gear assembly
counterclockwise.
84
- Install the clutch sleeve hub and lock washer (1).
CAUTION
Install the lock washer so that its tongue (2) is
aligned with the flat portion of the clutch sleeve
hub.
- Install the clutch sleeve hub nut and tighten it to

the specified torque using the special tool.
TOOL: 09920-53740: Clutch sleeve hub holder
Clutch sleeve hub nut: 50 Nm
- After tightening the clutch sleeve hub nut, be sure

to lock the nut by firmly bending the tongue of the
lock washer.
- Install the four dampers (3) to the clutch drive plate

and then install the drive plate onto the clutch
sleeve hub (4).
CAUTION
When installing the drive plate, make sure that
the damper (4 pcs) protrusions face towards the
bottom.
- Install the clutch driven and drive plates one by

one into the clutch sleeve hub.
- Install the clutch release rack (5) and clutch

release bearing (6) into the clutch pressure plate
(7).
NOTE.
Face the bearing side of the clutch release bearing
(6) towards the clutch release rack.
- Install the clutch pressure plate, clutch springs

and clutch spring mounting bolts.
- Hold the generator rotor nut and tighten the clutch

spring mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern.
NOTE
Make sure that the clutch pressure plate is installed
correctly.
85
- Apply SUZUKI BOND NO.1215 to the right

crankcase as shown.
SUZUKI BOND NO.1215
- Install the two dowel pins and new gasket.
- When installing the clutch cover, face the clutch

release rack towards the pinion gear side.
- Tighten the clutch cover bolts to the specified

torque.
Clutch cover bolt: 10 Nm
86
PISTON AND PISTON RING

- First, install a spacer (1) into the oil ring groove
and then install the two side rails (2). The spacer
and side rails do not have a specific top or bottom
when they are new. When reassembling used
parts, install them in their original place and
direction.
CAUTION
When installing the spacer, be careful not to
allow its two ends to overlap into the piston ring
groove. INCORRECT
CORRECT
- Some ways in which to distinguish the 1st and 2nd

piston rings:
1. Their ring face shapes are different. 1st
2. The 1st piston ring‘s face is chrome-plated.

3. The 2nd piston ring appears darker in color.
2nd
- The 1st and 2nd piston rings should be installed TOP

with their marks facing up.
1st ring
TOP
2nd ring
- Position the piston ring gaps as shown. Before EX.

inserting the piston into the cylinder, check that
2nd ring Upper side rail
the gaps are properly positioned. Lower side rail
1st ring
IN. Spacer
87
The following are reminders for piston installation:

- Before installing the piston pin, apply a light coat of
SUZUKI MOLY PASTE onto its surface.
SUZUKI MOLY PASTE
- Place a clean rag over the cylinder base to

prevent the piston pin circlip from dropping into
the crankcase. Install the piston pin circlip (1) with
long-nose pliers.
CAUTION
Use a new piston pin circlip (1) to prevent circlip
failure.
- Install the piston with the arrow mark (2) facing

towards the exhaust side.
CYLINDER
Before installing the cylinder, oil the big and small
ends of the conrod and also the sliding surface of the
piston.
- Install the dowel pins (1) into the crankcase and
then install the cylinder gasket (2).
CAUTION
Use a new gasket to prevent oil leakage.
- Make sure that the piston rings are properly

positioned, and insert the piston into the cylinder.
- Temporarily tighten the cylinder base nuts (3).
NOTE
When mounting the cylinder, keep the cam chain
taut. The cam chain must not be caught between the
cam chain drive sprocket and crankcase when the
crankshaft is rotated.
88
CYLINDER HEAD
CAUTION
Use a new gasket to prevent oil leakage.
- Install the dowel pins (1) into the cylinder and

then install the cylinder head gasket (2) onto the
cylinder.
NOTE
Apply engine oil to the cylinder head bolts, washers
before installing the cylinder head bolts.
- Place the cylinder head onto the cylinder.

- Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the specified
torque in stages and in a crisscross pattern using
a torque wrench.
Cylinder head bolt: Initial 13 Nm

Final 25 Nm
- After tightening the cylinder head bolts to the

specified torque, tighten the cylinder base nuts (3)
and cylinder head nuts (4) to the specified torque.
Cylinder base nut (3): 10 Nm

Cylinder head nut (4): 10 Nm
CAMSHAFT
CAUTION
If the crankshaft is turned without drawing the cam
chain upward, the cam chain will catch between
crankcase and cam chain drive sprocket.
- Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise and align

the "T"- line (A) on the generator rotor with the
index mark (B) on the crankcase while keeping
the cam chain tight.
NOTE
Just before installing the camshaft into the cylinder
head, apply SUZUKI MOLY PASTE to the camshaft
journals. Fully coat each journal (C), taking care not
to leave any dry spots. Also, apply engine oil to the
camshaft journal holders.
SUZUKI MOLY PASTE
Place each camshaft into the correct position:

"EX" is for exhaust side
"IN" is for intake side
89
- With the "T" line (A) aligned with the index mark NOTE
(B), hold the camshaft steady and lightly pull up The cam chain should now be on all three sprockets.
the cam chain to remove any slack between the
cam chain drive sprocket and exhaust camshaft CAUTION
sprocket. Be careful not to move the crankshaft until the
- The exhaust camshaft sprocket has an arrow camshaft journal holders and cam chain tension
marked "1" (1). adjuster are secured.
Turn the exhaust camshaft so that the arrow (1)
is aligned with the gasket surface of the cylinder
head. Engage the cam chain with the exhaust
camshaft sprocket.
- The other arrow marked "2" (2) should now
be pointing straight up. Starting from the roller
pin that is directly above the arrow marked "2"
(2), count out 16 roller pins (from the exhaust
camshaft side going towards the intake camshaft
side).
Engage the 16th roller pin on the cam chain with
the arrow marked "3" (3) on the intake sprocket.
Refer to the following illustrations.
1st pin 16th pin
90
- Install the eight dowel pins.

- Place each camshaft journal holders and cam
chain guide into the correct position.
NOTE
Camshaft journal holders which are marked "EX" or
"E" are for the exhaust side and one marked "IN" or "I"
are for the intake side.
- Tighten the camshaft journal holder bolts to the

specified torque.
Camshaft journal holder bolt: 10 Nm
NOTE
Before installing the cam chain tension adjuster, lock
the tension spring with a flat-head screwdriver.
Before installing the cam chain tension adjuster, turn
the crankshaft counterclockwise to remove any cam
chain slack between the cam chain drive sprocket
and exhaust camshaft sprocket.
- Install a new gasket and the cam chain tension

adjuster onto the cylinder with the two bolts and
tighten them to the specified torque.
Cam chain tension adjuster bolt: 10 Nm
- After installing the cam chain tension adjuster, turn

the screwdriver counterclockwise. As the slot in
the cam chain tension adjuster turns, the tension
rod advances under the spring force and pushes
the cam chain tension adjuster against the cam
chain.
CAUTION
After installing the cam chain tension adjuster,
check the cam chain slack to make sure that the
cam chain tension adjuster is working properly.
91
- Tighten the oil pipe bolts to the specified torque.
Engine oil pipe bolt: 20 Nm

1
- Pour abut 50 ml of engine oil into each oil pocket in

the cylinder head.
NOTE.
Turn the crankshaft and check that all the moving
parts (e.g., cam follower, camshaft) work properly.
CAUTION
Be sure to check the tappet clearance.
- Apply SUZUKI BOND N0.1207B to the camshaft

end caps of the gasket as shown.
SUZUKI BOND N0.1207B
- Place the cylinder head cover onto the cylinder

head.
- Apply engine oil to both sides of the head cover
bolt gaskets and then install them onto the head
cover bolts.
CAUTION
Replace the gaskets with new ones to prevent oil
leakage.
- Tighten the head cover bolts to the specified

torque in two stages and in a crisscross pattern.
Cylinder head cover bolt: Initial 10 Nm

Final 14 Nm
92
GENERATOR COVER
- Install the dowel pin (1) and new gasket (2).
- Tighten the generator cover to the specified

torque.
Generator cover bolt: 10 Nm
93
94
CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Carburetor type MIKUNI BS 26
Bore size 26 mm
I.D. No 47E3
Idle r/min 1450-1550 r/min.
Float height 17.1±0.5 mm
Fuel level (F.L.) 29±0,5 mm
Main jet (M.J.) # 107.5
Main air jet (M.A.J) Ø 0,7
Jet needle (J.N.) 5EP8-4
Needle jet (N.J.) P-0
Throttle valve (T.H.V.) #100
PiIot air jet (P.A.J.) 1.45
Pilot screw (P.S.) 2 turns back
Starter jet (G.S.) #27.5
Throttle cable play 3-6 mm
I.D. NO. LOCATION

The carburetor has an I.D. number (A) stamped on its
body according to its specifications.
95
CARBURATOR CONSTRUCION
ITEM SPECIFICATION
1 Cover �
2 Spring
3 Diaphragm
4 Jet Needle �
�
5 Piston valve
6 Air jet
7 Starting plunger
�
8 Pilot jet �
9 Needle jet
10 Main jet
11 Pilot screw
�
12 Float
13 Gasket
14 Float chamber
�
15 Idle adjuster
�
��
�
��
��
��
��
96
DIAPHRAGM AND PISTON OPERATION

The carburetor is a variable-venturi type, whose Rising negative pressure overcomes the spring (4)
venture cross sectional area is increased or decreased force, causing the piston valve (1) to rise into the
automatically by the piston valve (1) The piston valve diaphragm chamber and prevent the air velocity from
moves according to the negative pressure present increasing. Thus, air velocity in the venturi passage is
on the downstream side of the venturi (A). Negative kept relatively constant for improved fuel atomization
pressure is admitted into the diaphragm chamber (2) and the precise air/ fuel mixture.
through an orifice (3) provided in the piston valve (1).
LOWER POSITION OF THE PISTON VALVE UPPER POSITION OF THE PISTON VALVE
NEGATIVE PRESSURE
1 Piston valve
2 Diaphragm chamber
3 Orifice
4 Spring
A Venturi
97
SLOW SYSTEM
This system supplies fuel during engine operation
when the throttle valve is closed or slightly opened.
The fuel from the float chamber is metered by the

pilot jet (1) where it mixes with air coming in through
the pilot air jet (2).
This mixture, rich with fuel, then goes up through

the pilot passage to the pilot screw (3).
Part of the mixture is discharged into the main bore

AIR
through bypass ports. The mixture is metered by
AIR/FUEL MIXTURE
the pilot screw (3) and sprayed into the main bore FUEL
through the pilot outlet port.
MAIN SYSTEM
As the throttle valve (1) is opened, the engine
speed rises, and negative pressure in the venturi
increases. This causes the piston valve (2) to move
upward.
The fuel in the float chamber is metered by the main

jet (3). The metered fuel enters the needle jet (4),
mixes with the air admitted through the main air jet
(5) and forms an emulsion.
The emulsified fuel then passes through the

clearance between the needle jet (4) and jet needle
(6) and is discharged into the venturi, where it meets
AIR
the main air stream being drawn by the engine. AIR/FUEL MIXTURE
FUEL
Mixture proportioning is accomplished in needle jet
(4). The clearance through which the emulsified fuel
must flow ultimately depends on throttle position.
98
STARTER SYSTEM
Sliding the choke lever pulls the starting plunger (1)
which causes fuel to be drawn into the starter circuit
from the float chamber.
The starter jet (2) meters this fuel. The fuel then flows
into the fuel pipe and mixes with the air coming from
the float chamber. The mixture, rich in fuel, reaches
the starter plunger and mixes again with the air
coming through a passage extending from behind the
diaphragm. AIR
AIR/FUEL MIXTURE
FUEL
The two successive mixtures of the fuel with the air
provide the proper air/ fuel mixture for starting. This
occurs when the mixture is sprayed through the
starter outlet port into the main bore.
FLOAT SYSTEM
The float (1) and needle valve (2) work in conjunction
with one another. As the float moves up and down,
so does the needle valve (2).
When there is a high fuel level in the float chamber,

the float (1) rises and the needle valve (2) pushes
up against the valve seat. When this occurs, no fuel
enters the float chamber.
As the fuel level falls, the float (1) lowers and the
needle valve unseats itself, admitting fuel into the
float chamber. In this manner, the needle valve (2)
admits and shuts off fuel to maintain the appropriate
fuel level inside the float chamber.
FUEL
99
REMOVAL
- Remove the starter plunger (1) and throttle cable
(2).
- Remove the air cleaner box mounting screws (3).
- Loosen the clamp screws (5).

- Remove the carburetor (6).
DISASSEMBLY
- Remove the carburetor top cap (1).
- Remove the spring (2) and piston valve along with

diaphragm (3).
100
- Remove the spring seat (1) and jet needle (2).
- Remove the float chamber (3).
- Remove the gasket (4).

- Remove the float assembly (5) be removing the
pin (6).
- Remove the needle valve (7) and the valve seat

(8)
CAUTION
Dot not use a wire to clean the valve seat.
- Remove the main jet (9) and pilot jet (10).
CAUTION
Dot not use a wire to clean the passages and
jets.
101
- Remove the needle jet holder (1) and needle jet

(2).
- Remove the pilot air jet (3) and main air jet (4).
- Remove the pilot screw (5).
NOTE
Before removing the pilot screw (5), its setting must
be determined. Slowly turn the pilot air screw clock-
wise and count the number of turns until it is lightly
seated.
When reassembling the pilot air screw, you will want
to set it to its original position.
- Remove the throttle valve (6) by removing the

screws.
CAUTION
These two screws (7) are locked by notches at the 7
end of the screws. After being unscrewed they are
damaged. When reinstalling the throttle valve ap-
ply THREAD LOCK 1342 to both these screws.
102
INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT

Check the following items for any damage or clogging.
- Pilot jet - Float
- Main jet - Needle valve
- Main air jet - Starter jet
- Pilot air screw - Gasket and O-ring
- Needle jet air bleeding hole - Pilot outlet and bypass holes
NEEDLE VALVE INSPECTION

If foreign matter is caught between the valve seat and
the needle valve, the gasoline will continue flowing
and overflow. If the valve seat and needle valve are
worn beyond the permissible limits, similar trouble will
occur. Conversely, if the needle valve sticks, the gaso-
line will not flow into the float chamber. Clean the float
chamber and float parts with gasoline. If the needle
valve is worn, as shown in the illustration, replace, it
along with a new valve seat.
Clean the fuel passage of the mixing chamber with
compressed air.
FLOAT HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT

To check the float height, turn the carburetor upside
down.
Measure the float height (A) while the float arm is just
contacting the needle valve using vernier calipers.
Bend the tongue (1) as necessary to bring the float
height (A) to the specified value.
Float height (A): 17.1±0.5 mm
REASSEMBLY
Reassemble the carburetor in the reverse order of
disassembly.
Pay attention to the following points:
- Turn the throttle stop screw until the throttle valve‘s
bottom end (A) is aligned with the foremost bypass
port (B).
NOTE
Apply a small quantity of THREAD LOCK "1342" to
the throttle valve mounting screws and tighten them.
THREAD LOCK "1342"
CAUTION
Face the stamped side of the throttle valve out.
REMOUNTING
Remount the carburetor in the reverse order of
removal.
- Adjust the following items to the specification.
- Engine idle speed
- Throttle cable play
103
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
- OIL PRESSURE
- OIL FILTER
- OIL SUMP FILTER
When replacing the engine oil, make sure that the oil
sump filter has no tears or damage. Also, be sure to
wash the oil sump filter periodically.
CAUTION
Replace the generator cover gasket with a new
one to prevent oil leakage.
ENGINE LUBRICATON SYSTEM CHART
Conrod small Cam face tappet Cam face tappet Cylinder head
end
Intake camshaft Exhaust camshaft Nozzle

Piston cylinder journal journal
wall
Conrod big end Piston jet Oil pipe

Oil return
path
Camshaft journal
right Main gallery
Oil filter
Countershaft
left side
bearing
Oil cooler
Oil pump Countershaft Driveshaft

right side jet left side
bearing
Oil pump
filter Counter Primary Clutch
shaft driven gear Clutch relase Driveshaft
gears spacer plate bearing gears
Oil pan
104
Electrical installation
Fuses
CAUTION
Never install a fuse with a larger rating, since this
could destroy the entire electrical system.
The fuse (1) is located on the right cover.

Remove the cover on top of the relay.
The fuse safeguards the:

- electrical starting system
- direction indicators
- horn
- neutral indicator lamp
Rated fuse current: 20 A
NOTE
The spare fuse (2) is on the front side of the relay.
105
Battery Charging the battery
After a long lay-up (3-4 months), charge the battery.

WARNING The charging current (in amperes) must not exceed
Always wear safety glasses. 1/10th of the battery capacity (Ah). The battery must
Keep children away from acids and batteries. not be fast-charged. The battery may only be charged
EXPLOSION DANGER using a special charger approved for MF batteries.
A battery being charged produces a highly
explosive gas, which is why fire, sparks, naked
flames and smoking are prohibited. Maintenance
Although the battery is maintenance-free. Never leave

FIRE HAZARD the battery discharged. Keep the battery clean and
Avoid generating sparks and electrostatic discharges dry and make sure that the connection terminals are
when handling cables and electrical devices. firmly seated.
Avoid short circuits.
DANGER - CAUSTIC CAUTION

ACTION The battery may only be connected or disconnected
Battery acid is highly caustic, so always wear safety while the ignition is inactive.
gloves and glasses. First disconnect the minus terminal (black cable).
Do not tilt the battery as acid can leak from the When installing the battery, first connect the plus
ventilation openings. terminal (red cable). The battery is maintenance-
free. Do not try to open it.
FIRST AID
If acid comes into contact with an eye, immediately
flush the eye for several minutes with fresh water. Then
immediately visit / call a doctor.
Acid on the skin or clothing must immediately be
neutralised using acid converter or soap suds, and
the spots must be flushed with plenty of water.
If acid is swallowed, immediately visit / call a doctor.
CAUTION
Do not expose batteries to direct sunlight.
Discharged batteries can freeze, so they must be
stored in a place where the temperature remains
above 0 °C.
Professional maintenance, charging and storage
will increase the lifespan of the battery and are a
condition for the honouring of guarantee claims.
DISPOSAL
Take a dead battery to a collection point. Never dispose
of one with household refuse.
106
Commissioning maintenance-free batteries (MF)
The steps described below must be strictly observed in order to guarantee the long lifespan of the battery.
Work steps:
container with
electrolyte
insert in the filler

openings
immediately
Pull the shut-off plug of the battery from the acid pack and remove the aluminium foil used to seal the battery (once
the aluminium foil has been removed, the battery must be filled immediately!)
air bub-
bles
Insert the acid pack into the filler opening of the battery and allow the acid to run into the battery (keep the acid
pack in this position for at least 20 minutes).
container with
electrolyte
Remove the acid pack from the battery and allow the battery to degas for another 20 minutes.
107
WRONG RIGHT
Close the battery using only the fingers, so that all plugs are simultaneously pressed into the battery.
MF-charger unit
V _> 12.5 OK V < 12.5
Now check the battery voltage using a volt meter; if the voltage is lower than 12.5 volt, the battery must be re-
charged by means of an MF charger unit.
After charging, wait at least 30 minutes and again check the battery using the volt meter. If the voltage is still lower
than 12.5 volt, the battery must be recharged.
- If the battery voltage the second charging cycle is still lower than 12.5 volt, the battery must be replaced.
- If the motorcycle remains unused for a longer period, the battery must be checked or recharged every month.
- To charge a maintenance-free battery you must use a suitable charger unit. The recharge may not exceed a max.
charging current of 1/10th of the battery capacity.
108
109
STARTER MOTOR REMOVAL AND

DISASSEMBLY
- Disconnect the starter motor lead wire (1).

- Remove the starter motor.
- Disassemble the starter motor, as shown in the

illustration.
1 Brush holder
2 Brush
3 O-ring
4 Starter motor case
5 Armature
6 O-ring
STARTER MOTOR INSPECTION

CARBON BRUSHES
Inspect the brushes for abnormal wear, cracks or

smoothness in the brush holder.
If either carbon brush is defective, replace the brush

assembly.
110
COMMUTATOR
Inspect the commutator for discoloration, abnormal
wear or undercut (A).
If the commutator is abnormally worn, replace the
armature.
If the commutator surface is discolored, polish it with
#400 sandpaper and wipe it using a clean, dry cloth.
If there is no undercut, scrape out the insulator (1)
with a saw blade.
ARMATURE COIL INSPECTION

Measure for continuity between each segment and
the armature shaft.
If there is no continuity between the segments or
there is continuity between the segments and shaft,
replace the armature with a new one.
Tool: Pocket tester

Tester knob indication: x 1 Ω range
OIL SEAL INSPECTION

Check the seal lip for damage or leakage.
If any damage is found, replace the housing end (in-
side).
STARTER MOTOR REASSEMBLY

Reassemble the starter motor in the reverse order of
disassembly. Pay attention to the following points:
CAUTION
Replace the O-rings with new ones to prevent oil
leakage and moisture.
- Apply SUZUKI SUPER GREASE "A" to the lip of

the oil seal.
111
- Apply a small quantity of SUZUKI MOLY PASTE to

the armature shaft.
SUZUKI MOLY PASTE
- Install the brush holder as shown.
- Align the match marks on the starter motor case

with the match marks on the housing end.
- Apply a small quantity of THREAD LOCK "1342"
to the starter motor housing bolts.
THREAD LOCK "1342"
STARTER RELAY INSPECTION

- Remove the frame covers.
- Disconnect the starter motor lead wire on the
starter relay.
- Turn on the ignition switch, push the starter button

and check for continuity between the (+) and (-)
terminals.
If no continuity is found, the starter relay is defective
and must be replaced with a new one.
Tool: Pocket tester

Tester knob indication: x 1Ω range
- Disconnect the starter relay lead wire coupler.
- Measure the starter relay resistance between the
terminals, as shown.
Tool: Pocket tester

Starter relay resistance: 3-6 Ω
112
IGNITION SYSTEM
This motorcycle is equipped with a new type of ignition system which minimizes timing fluctuations. A CPU is used
and accurately controls ignition timing depending on the engine r/min.
A DC-DC convertor in the CDI unit increases the battery voltage and charges the capacitor. An SCR, which is con-
nected to the capacitor, becomes conductive (turn on) when a signal is sent to the SCR gate from the CPU.
(The ignition timing is controlled by the CPU which processes the pick-up coil pulses to from the SCR gate signal.
The signal is then sent to the SCR just when the crankshaft has reached the best ignition timing for the current revo-
lutions).
This allows the electric energy, which is stored in the capacitor, to discharge instantly and flow to the primary winding
of the ignition coil.
A high voltage current is induced in the secondary winding of the ignition coil resulting in a strong spark between the
spark plug gap.
Engine stop switch Ignition switch

Fuse
DC-DC
convertor
Ignition power
sorce circuit
Battery
Ignition coil
Sensor input
circuit CPU
Tachometer
Pick-up coil output circuit
Spark plug
CDI unit
Tachometer
Generator
CPU: Central processing unit
113
TROUBLE SHOOTING
No spark at the spark plug Check: - The ignition switch is in the ON

position.
- The engine stop switch is in the
RUN position.
- The fuse is not blown.
Check the CDI unit coupler for a

poor connection Looseness - Poor contact of coupler
Correct
Inspect the battery voltage between

input lead wires (O/W and B/W) at
the CDI unit with the ignition switch No good - Faulty ignition switch
"ON" position. - Faulty engine stop
switch
- Broken wire harness
or poor contact of rela
Good ted circuit connectors
Measure the pick-up coil resistance

(G/W and BI/Y). Incorrect - Faulty pick-up coil
Correct
- Faulty CDI unit
- Faulty ignition coil
114
INSPECTION
IGNITION COIL (checking with the electro tester)
- Remove the ignition coil (1).
NOTE
Make sure that the three-needle sparking distance of
the electro tester is set at 8 mm.
Test the ignition coil for proper sparking performance

using the electro tester.
- Connect the test leads as shown in the illustra-

tion.
- Check the sparking condition in the test gap for at
least five minutes.
Black tip (-)
If no spark or an orange color spark occurs, the igni- Red tip
tion coil may be defective. Black (+)
Tool: Electro tester

Spark performance: Over 8 mm
Yellow
WARNING
Do not touch the wire clips to prevent an electric
shock when testing.
CAUTION
When using the electro tester, follow the instruc-
tion manual.
IGNITION COIL (checking with the pocket tester)

A pocket tester or an ohm meter may be used, instead Spark
of the electro tester. In either case, the ignition coil is
to be checked for continuity in both primary and sec-
ondary windings. Exact ohm readings are not neces-
sary, but, if the windings are in sound condition, their
continuity should be close to the specified values.
Tap
Tool: Pocket tester
Ignition coil resistance

Primary: 0.1-0.5 Ω (+ tap-Ground)
Ground
Secondary: 13-23 kΩ (Plug cap-ground)
115
PICK-UP COIL
- Disconnect the pick-up coil coupler (1).
- Measure the pick-up coil resistance between the
lead wires. If the resistance is infinity or less than
specification, the pick-up coil and stator coil must
be replaced.
Tool: Pocket tester
Pick-up coil resistance: 180-340 Ω (G/W-BL/Y)
BL/Y: Blue with Yellow tracer
G/W: Green with White tracer
Generator
CDI UNIT
- Remove the CDI unit (1).
Measure the resistance between the terminals. If the
resistance is infinity or less than the specifications,
the CDI unit must be replaced.
NOTE.
The readings may differ if a SUZUKI pocket tester is
not used.
Tool: Pocket tester
Unit:
Probe of tester
Probe of tester
Condenser: When the capacitor is in the discharging

state, the needle of the tester swings
first then returns to infinity (∞).
NOTE.
If there is no spark evident, replace the CDI unit or
inspect the stator coil, pick-up coil, ignition coil, spark
plug and battery. If the stator coil, pick-up coil, ignition
coil, spark plug and battery are OK, the CDI unit may
be faulty, therefore, replace the CDI unit with a new
one.
116
RPM METER
1. Disconnect the plug (2) from the rpm meter (1).

1
2. Measure the voltage between the black cable
coming from the plug (2) and terminal 30, using
a voltage meter.
Black cable - terminal 30 2
Target value: battery voltage
Actual value = target value = test step 3.
Actual value ≠ target value = check the cables
against the wiring diagram.
SFM 675 182.3-1
3. Measure the resistance between the black cable

and the white cable coming from the plug (2),
using an ohmmeter:
White cable - black cable
Target value at 20 °C: 0.2 - 0.8 Ω
Actual value = target value = replace the rpm
meter.
Actual value ≠ target value = check the charger.
117
Chassis - Wheels - Removing/installing the front wheel
�
��
� ��
�
�
� �
�
�
�
� �
�
�
� � � �
��
CAUTION
Be careful during removal and installation not to damage the brake disks or linings!
Do not operate the handbrake lever after a wheel has been removed!
Protect the wheel bearings fr om dirt and moisture!
Removing the front wheel:

1. Support the motorcycle so that the front wheel is free and the motorcycle stands safely.
2. Hold the full floating axle (2), remove the axle nut (6) and the shaft-clamping screw (1).
3. Push back the protective cover (5), loosen the spigot nut (4) and remove the speedometer shaft.
4. Lift the front wheel, pull out the full floating axle (2) and remove the front wheel in a downwards direction.
5. Remove the speedometer drive (3) and the spacer bush (7) near the brake disk.
Installing the front wheel:

6. Clean and grease the running face of the speedometer drive (3).
7. Roll the front wheel between the fork pipes, insert the speedometer drive (3) and the spacer bushing (7).
NOTE
When inserting the front wheel, make sure that the nose of the speedometer drive (3) is in the guide (9) of the fork.
8. Grease the full floating axle (2), insert it from the left until it contacts the stop, then fasten it with a washer (8)
and shaft nut (6).
9. Before tightening the nuts, put the motorcycle on its wheels and firmly compress the telescopic fork several
times; this will prevent the fork pipes from becoming deformed.
Tightening torque of the shaft nut (6): 60-65 Nm
Tightening torque of the shaft-clamping screws (1): 10 Nm
118
Removing/installing the rear wheel
� � ��
� ��
� �
�
� �
� �
� �
� �
�
�
� �
�
�
�
�
��
CAUTION
Be careful during removal and installation not to damage the brake disks or linings! Do not operate the hand-
brake lever after a wheel has been r emoved! Protect the wheel bearings from dirt and moisture!
Removing the rear wheel:

1. Support the motorcycle so that the rear wheel is free and the motorcycle stands safely.
2. Hold the full floating axle (5) and remove the axle nut (4).
3. Loosen the lock-nuts (1) and twist in the left- and right-hand screws (2) and remove the chain from the chain
wheel.
NOTE
When removing the rear wheel, be careful not to lose the bushings (7 and 9) to the left and right of the wheel hub or
the spacer ring (8) near the brake support.
4. Lift the rear wheel, pull out the full floating axle (5) with the guides (3) and the washers (6) and remove the rear
wheel in a downwards direction.
Installing the rear wheel:

5. Insert the brake support (10) in the holder bolt (11) of the swing.
6. Clean and grease the full floating axle (5).
NOTE
When inserting the bushing (7), make sure that the large diameter makes contact with the swing.
7. Insert the spacer ring (8) in the brake support (10) (small diameter in the bore of the brake support).
8. Insert the rear wheel with the bushings (7 and 9) and insert the full floating axle (5) with washer (6) and guide
(3).
9. Install the guide (3), washer (6) and shaft nut (4) on the full floating axle (5).
10. Adjusting the chain.
11. Tighten the axle nut (4).
Tightening torque of the axle nut (4): 60-65 Nm
119
Removing/installing the front-wheel bearing
NOTE
Heat the bearing seat to approx. 100 °C in order to �
facilitate removal/installation.
Removing the wheel bearing:
1. Remove the front wheel.
2. Use an internal extractor to pull the wheel bearing �
(1) out of the bearing seat of the wheel hub (2).
�
Installing the wheel bearing:
3. Press the wheel bearing (1) into the bearing seat
of the wheel hub (2).
4. Install the front wheel.
Removing/installing the rear-wheel bearing ��
NOTE
Heat the bearing seat to approx. 100 °C in order to �
facilitate its removal and installation.
Removing the wheel bearing:
1. Remove the rear wheel.
2. Remove the brake shoe support.
3. Use an internal extractor to pull the wheel bearing �
(1) out of the bearing seat of the wheel hub (2).
Installing the wheel bearing:
4. Press the wheel bearing (1) into the bearing seat
of the wheel hub (2).
5. Install the front wheel.
��
Statically aligning the wheels

1. Clamp the relevant wheel in the aligning device.
2. Rotate the wheel gently and wait until it comes to
a standstill. Make a mark (1) at the low point of
the tyre.
NOTE
Always start with the smallest alignment weight.
�
��
3. Turn the wheel through 90°, stop it and let it find

its own position. If the mark (1) again stops at the
low point of the tyre, this is the heavy point and
an alignment weight (2) must be installed opposi-
te it.
4. Each time turn the wheel through 90° and stop
� �
it; the wheel must remain in position, otherwise
repeat the alignment procedure.
��
120
Telescopic fork
� �
Removing/installing the telescopic fork ��
�
Removing the telescopic fork: �
2. Remove the top part of the full covering. �
3. Remove the instruments and covering holder.
4. Remove the front wheel safeguard. �
5. Only for the XTC: remove the half-handlebar �
6. Pull off the protective cover (10), remove the closure
� �
nut (1) and the clamp screws (2) and remove the
fork bridge (3) at the top.
NOTE
When removing the telescopic fork (5), be careful not to
lose the tapered roller bearing (8), the sealing ring (7)
or the bearing-cover ring (6). In principle, the sealing
rings (7) should be replaced.
7. Remove the adjusting nut (4) and pull the telescopic

fork (5) downwards out of the fork column (9).
Installing the telescopic fork:

8. Reassemble in reverse order. ��
9. Grease the fork column top bearing.
10. Adjust the fork column top bearing.
121
Disassembling the telescopic fork
NOTE
In principle, the sealing ring (4) should be replaced. �
1. Remove the clamping screw (2) and remove the
fork pipe (3) from the fork bridge.
CAUTION
The closure screw (1) is under spring pressure. �
2. Remove the closure screw (1).
3. Remove the fastening screw (5) of the absorber
pipe with the sealing ring (4) and drain the fork
oil.
4. Pull off the dust cover and use a screwdriver to
remove the securing ring.
5. Remove the spacer bushing, spring plate, pressure
spring, absorber pipe and the stand pipe from the
sliding pipe.
�
� ��
Measuring the telescopic fork � �

NOTE �
After an accident, the telescopic fork must be exami- �
ned for cracks and damage. Use protective supports
in the vice. � �
1. Clamp the lower fork bridge (2) near the steering �

post in the vice.
2. Install two new stand pipes (1) of test length (A) in
the lower fork bridge (2) and fasten them with the
clamp screws (3).
Test length (A): 189 mm
Tightening torque of
��
the screw (3): 13-15 Nm
3. Put two measuring edges (1) over the upper and �

lower ends of the stander pipes and visually esta-
blish any deformation of the fork bridge.
CAUTION
Deformed fork bridges must be replaced.
��
122
4. Install the upper fork bridge.
NOTE
The upper fork bridge must be easy to slide onto the
stand pipes.
5. Use a slider gauge to check that the stand pipes

are parallel.
6. Check that the steering post is parallel to the
stand pipes.
��
7. Install the old stand pipe with both ends in the

prism, slowly rotate the stand pipe while che-
cking the deformation with a measuring gauge.
Allowable deformation of the stand
pipes: 0.1 mm
CAUTION
Bent stand pipes may not be realigned.
��
123
Repairing the telescopic fork
�
� ��
� ��
� ��
��
��
�
�
��
�
� �
�
�
��
��
��
NOTE
Before installation, lightly oil the slide bushes (8a and 8f) and the thread of the closure screw (1).
In principle, the O-ring (2) and the sealing ring (6c) must be replaced.
Before installation, lightly cover the exterior of the radial packing ring (8d) with tyre-installation liquid.
Fill the grease pocket in the dust collar (8b) with Molybdene grease.
Tightening torque for closure screw (1): 40 Nm Telescopic fork oil: SAE 10 W
Tightening torque for screws (6d): 40 Nm Qty. for filling each form pipe: 280 cm3
1. Push apart the slide bush (8a), pull it off the stand pipe (7) and install a new side bush (8a).
2. Remove the radial packing ring (8d), the intermediate ring (8e) and the slide bush (8f) from of the sliding pipe.
3. Push the absorber pipe (6a) into the stand pipe (7), install the guide piece (6b) on the absorber pipe (6a) and push
the stand pipe (7) with slide bush (8a) into the sliding pipe.
4. Insert the pressure spring (5), spring plate (4) and spacer bush (3) into the stand pipe (7) and lightly twist in the fas-
tening screw (6d) with a new sealing ring (6c).
5. Push the slide bush (8f) over the stand pipe (7), lightly push it into the sliding pipe (9) and carefully push it in using
the impact mandrel (A).
6. Insert the intermediate ring (8e), carefully push in the radial packing ring (8d) with the impact mandrel (A) and install
the securing ring (8c) via the radial packing ring (8d) into the nut.
7. Carefully tighten the dust collar (8b) with the impact mandrel (A) and tighten the fastening screw (6d) for absorber
pipe.
8. Put in the prescribed quantity of fork oil, insert the closure screw (1) with a new O-ring (2) and tighten it.
1 Closure screw 6b Guide piece 8b Dust collar
2 O-ring 6c Sealing ring 8c Securing ring
3 Spacer bush 6d Fastening screw for 8d Radial packing ring
4 Spring plate absorber pipe 8e Intermediate ring
5 Pressure spring 7 Stand pipe 8f Slide bush for sliding pipe
6 Absorber pipe set 8 Sealing set for sliding pipe 9 Sliding pipe
6a Absorber pipe 8a Sliding bush for stand pipe A Impact mandrel
124
9. Clamp the lower fork bridge (2) by the steering � �

post in the vice. �
10. Install the two stand pipes (1) with test length (A) �
into the lower fork bridge and tighten the clamp
screw (3). � �
Test length (A): 189 mm
Tightening torque of the screws (3): 13-15 Nm �
11. Install the telescopic fork.
��
Removing/installing the fork column bearing �

CAUTION �
The tapered roller bearing and the bearing outer �
ring must always be replaced together.
1. Remove the telescopic fork.

�
Fork column bearing, top:
2. Remove the bearing cover ring (1), sealing ring
(2) and tapered roller bearing (3) from the fork
column (4).
��
3. Use an internal extractor (3) to pull the bearing

outer ring (1) out of the fork column (2).
�
��
4. Push the new bearing outer ring down to the bot-

tom of the seat of the fork column (2) (e.g. using
the fork column mandrel (1) of a frame gauge).
�
��
125
Fork column bearing, bottom:

5. The removal/installation of the lower bearing outer �
ring is realised in accordance with the removal/
installation of the upper bearing outer ring.
6. Destroy the bearing cage and remove it together �
with the tapered rollers.
7. Use a universal extractor (1) to pull the bearing
ring off the steering post (2).
8. Heat the new bearing ring to approx. 80 °C and
install it; if necessary, use a pipe to evenly drive
the bearing ring down to the stop.
CAUTION
Allow the bearing ring to cool of f before adjusting
the play of the fork column bearing. ��
NOTE
Grease the fork column bearing with wheel-bearing
grease.
9. Install the telescopic fork..
Removing/installing the telescopic leg
Removing the telescopic leg:

1. Support the motorcycle so that the rear wheel is
free and the motorcycle is standing securely. ��
2. Remove the screw (1) with washers (2 and 3) and �
�
nut (4) and carefully lower the swing (10) with the
rear wheel.
3. Remove the screws (5) with washers (6 and 7) and
�
the nut (8) and remove the telescopic leg (9) from
the frames (11).
Installing the telescopic leg: �
4. Reassemble in reverse order. �
Tightening torque of the
screws (1 and 5): 42 Nm
�
�
��
�
�
��
126
Removing the rear-wheel swing, replacing and installing the swing bearing
��
��
��
�
�
�
�
� �
��
��
�
�
�
�
�
�
�
�
� �
��
Removing the rear-wheel swing:

1. Support the motorcycle so that the rear wheel is free and the motorcycle stands securely.
2. Remove the rear wheel and the chain.
3. Disconnect the brake hose from the holders of the rear-wheel swing, take the calliper through the swing triangle
and connect it to the frame (if necessary, secure it with wire).
4. Support the rear-wheel swing (1) in order to prevent the exhaust system from becoming damaged.
5. Disconnect the screw (11) with washers (12) and nut (13) then disconnect the telescopic leg (10).
NOTE
When pulling out the swing axle (2) or removing the rear-wheel swing (1), be careful not to lose the friction washers
(4 and 8) or the bushes (5).
6. Pull off the cover plug (9), remove nuts (3) and washers (4), pull out the swing axle (2) and remove the rear-
wheel swing (1) in a rearwards direction.
Replacing the swing bearing:

7. Pull out the bushings (5) and the radial packing rings (7) from the rear-wheel swing.
8. Use an impact mandrel to drive the needle bushings (6) out of the rear-wheel swing (1).
9. Thoroughly clean the rear wheel swing (1), the bushes (5) and the swing axle (2).
10. Lightly grease the exterior of the new needle bushes (6) and the interior of the bearing seat of the rear-wheel
swing (1).
11. Push in the new needle bushes (6) so far that the radial packing rings (7) can be installed on both sides.
12. Grease the bearing and install new radial packing rings (7) and bushes (5).
Installing the rear-wheel swing:

Tightening torque for nut (3): 42 Nm
Tightening torque for screw (11): 42 Nm
127
Replacing the chain set
��
��
��
��
� ��
�
�
� ��
� ��
� ��
� � ��
�
�
��
CAUTION
The chain, chain wheel and pinion wheel may only be r eplaced together.
NOTE
When opening the stud link (1), be careful not to lose the O-ring (4) or the spring clip (2).
The pull-off screw (6) can be loosened with a chisel.
The installation of a pull-of f screw (6) is required by law .
1. Separate the stud link (1) from the chain (3) and remove the chain (3).
3. Remove the screws (13), securing ring (11) with washer (12) and remove the chain wheel (14) from the rear
wheel (18).
4. Check the adapter (15) and absorbing rubber (17) for damage, insert new lock-nuts (16) and use the screws
(13) to fasten the new chain wheel (14) to the adapter (15).
Tightening torque of the screws (13): 25-28 Nm
5. Insert the pre-assembled chain wheel (14) with the absorbing rubber (17) into the rear wheel and fasten it with
the washer (12) and the securing ring (11).
6. Remove the screws (5 and 6) and remove the cover (7).
7. Bend open the locking plate (8), hold the pinion wheel (10) using the holder spanner (special tool) and remove
the nut (9).
8. Install the new pinion wheel (10) with the locking plate (8), hold the pinion wheel (10) using the holder spanner
(special tool), fasten it using the nut (9) and secure it with the locking plate (8).
Tightening torque of the nut (9): 90 Nm
CAUTION
The closed end of the spring clip (2) of the stud link (1) must always point in the r unning direction (arrow)
of the chain (3).
9. Install the chain (3) on the pinion wheel (10), thread it through the swing and connect it using the stud link (1).
10.Reassemble in reverse order.
Tightening torque of the screw (5): 8-10 Nm
128
Brakes
Removing, installing and repairing the front cal-

�
liper �
CAUTION
The brake fluid can cause damage to the painted
and plastic parts!
Use only new brake fluid of specification DOT 4.
Removing the calliper:

1. Remove the banjo bolt (6) with the sealing rings
(5), remove the brake line (4) and close it off. ��
2. Remove the screws (2) with spring washers (3)
and remove the calliper (1) from the brake disk.
�
��
Installing the calliper: ��
3. Remove the circlip (8) and the holder bolt (7) from �
the calliper (1). �
4. Remove the brake lining (9). ��
5. Remove the screws (11), push apart the calliper (1) �
and remove the brake piston with the old sealing
set.
6. Check the calliper (1) and the brake piston for
damage, wear or corrosion; if necessary, replace �
the calliper.
7. Install the new sealing set (10) with the brake pis-
�
ton.
8. Assemble the calliper (1), insert the screws (11) ��
with Loctite 270 and tighten them.

screws (11): 25-28 Nm
9. Insert the brake lining (9) and fasten it with circlip
(8) and holder bolts (7).
Installing the calliper:

screws (2): 35-38 Nm
11. Adjust the brake-fluid level, vent the brake system
and check the handbrake lever play.
12. Carry out a function check.
129
Replacing the front brake disk

2. Remove the screws (4) with spring rings (3) and
�
�
remove the brake disk (2) from the front wheel
(1).
3. Install a new brake disk (2) on the front wheel
(1), insert the screws (4) with Loctite 270 and
insert and fasten the new spring rings (3). �
Tightening torque of the screws (4):10-11 Nm
with Loctite 270.
�
��
Removing, installing and repairing the rear calli-

per
�
CAUTION
Brake fluid can cause damage to painted and
plastic parts.
Use only brake fluid of specification DOT 4. �
Removing the calliper:
1. Remove the banjo bolt (2) with sealing rings (3),
remove the brake line (1) and close it off. �
2. Remove the rear wheel and remove the calliper
(6).
Repairing the calliper:

3. Bend open the locking plate (5), remove the �
screws (4) and remove the holder plate (9).
4. Remove the brake linings (7). �
5. Remove the brake piston with the old sealing set. �
6. Check the calliper (6) and brake piston for dama-
ge, wear or corrosion; if necessary, replace the
calliper.
7. Insert a new sealing set (8) with the brake piston. �
8. Insert new brake linings (7) and the holder plate
(9) and fasten it with the locking plate (5) and
screws (4).
�
Tightening torque of the �
screws (4): 25-28 Nm
9. Bend the locking plate (5) in order to secure the
screws (4). ��
Installing the calliper:

WARNING
- RISK OF ON-ROAD ACCIDENT!
Operate the brake several times, until the brake
11. Adjust the brake-fluid level, vent the brake sys-
tem and check the handbrake lever play.
12. Carry out a function check.
130
Replacing the rear brake disk

2. Remove the screws (2) and remove the brake disc (1)
�
from the rear wheel (3).
3. Install the new brake disk (1) on the rear wheel (3), in-
sert the screws (2) with Loctite 270 and tighten them.
Tightening torque of the screws (2): 10-11 Nm �
with Loctite.
�
��
131
Lights
Removing/installing the headlamps
�
��
��
��
� �
��
��
��
��
��
�
� �
�
�
��
NOTE
Do not touch the filament bulbs with the bare fingers. For installation and removal purposes, use a clean, dry cloth.
Before installation, check the rubber bearings (1) for damage and replace them if necessary.
1. Remove the upper covering.

2. Disconnect the rubber covers (2) and pull them off, disconnect the connector plugs (3, 4, 5).
3. Remove the screws (6, 7) with the washers (8), the bush (9).
4. Remove the headlamp (10).
5. Pull out the parking-light holder (11) with its filament bulb (12).
6. Unlock the holder clamp (13) and remove the riding-light lamps (14).
INSTALLATION NOTE
The condensation outlets (15) on the rubber covers (2) must point downwards.
132
Removing/installing the rear lights
�
�
� �
� �
�
��
��
��
��
NOTE
Do not touch the filament bulbs with the bare fingers. For installation and removal purposes, use a clean, dry cloth.
Make sure that the cable is correctly installed without abraded contacts or bends/kinks.
When installing the filament bulbs (4), observe the different heights of the projections on the lamp base.
1. Remove the seat.

2. Remove the screw (6) and remove the rear-light cover (5).
3. Remove the filament bulbs (4).
4. Remove the nuts (1) with the washers (2), disconnect the connection cable and remove the rear lights (3) from the seat.
5. Remove the nuts (7) with the washers (8) and remove the rear reflector (9).
6. Remove the nuts (10) with the washers (11).

7. Pull out the light holder (12) with its bulb (13) and remove the number plate light (14).
133
Direction indicators
� �
Removing/installing the direction indicators: �
NOTE
The figure is a front view of the direction indicator. �
Proceed accordingly for the rear direction indicators �
until you have jacked the cable off.
1. Clip out the direction-indicator glass (1) from the

direction-indicator housing (3) and remove it. �
2. Only for the front direction indicators: remove the �
filament bulbs (2), disconnect the plug from the
connection cable (8) behind the covering. � ��
3. Only for the rear direction indicators: remove the
filament bulbs (2), disconnect the connection cable
(8) in the direction indicator housing (3).
4. Remove the screw (4) with the washers (5 and 6)
and the nut (7) and remove the direction-indicator
housing (3).
134
Troubleshooting
Engine
Complaint Symptom and possible causes Remedy
Engine will not start Compression too low
or is hard to start. Worn cylinder Rebore or replace
Worn piston ring Replace.
Worn valve guide or improper valve seating Repair or replace
Loose spark plug Tighten.
Broken, cracked or damaged piston Replace
Slow cranking starter motor See electrical section
Mistimed valves Adjust
Tappet clearance out of adjustment Adjust
Spark plug not sparking

Damaged spark plug Replace
Damaged spark plug cap Replace
Fouled spark plug Clean or replace
Wet spark plug Clean and dry or replace
Defective ignition coil Replace
Open or short in high-tension cord Replace
Defective pick-up coil or CDI unit Replace
No fuel reaching a carburetor

Clogged or defective fuel valve Clean or replace
Defective carburetor needle valve Replace with cauburetor
needle valve seat
Clogged fuel hose Clean or replace
Clogged fuel filter Clean or replace
Engine stalls easily Fouled spark plug Clean or replace

Clogged fuel hose Clean
Clogged carburetor jet Clean
Tappet clearance out of adjustment Adjust
Engine is noisy Excessive valve chatter
Excessive tappet clearance Adjust
Weak or broken valve spring Replace
Worn cam surface Replace
Worn or burnt camshaft journal Replace camshaft
135
Engine
Engine is noisy Noise seems to come from the piston
Worn piston Replace
Worn cylinder Rebore or replace
Carbon build-up in combustion chamber Clean
Worn piston pin or piston pin bore Replace
Worn piston ring or ring groove Replace
Noise seems to come from the cam chain
Stretched cam chain Replace cam chain and sprockets
Worn cam chain sprocket Replace cam chain and sprockets
Improperly working cam chain tension adjuster Repair or replace
Noise seems to come from the clutch
Worn countershaft spline Replace countershaft
Worn clutch hub spline Replace clutch hub
Worn clutch plate teeth Replace clutch plate
Distorted clutch plate Replace
Worn clutch release bearing Replace
Weak clutch damper Replace primary driven gear
Weak clutch spring Replace
Noise seems to come from the crankshaft
Rattling bearing Replace
Worn or burnt crank pin bearing Replace
Worn or burnt ball bearing Replace
Noise seems to come from the transmission
Worn or rubbing gear Replace
Worn countershaft spline Replace countershaft
Worn driveshaft spline Replace driveshaft
Worn or rubbing primary gear Replace
Worn bearing Replace
Clutch slips Clutch cable out of adjustment Adjust
Weak or broken clutch spring Replace
Worn or distorted clutch pressure plate Replace
Clutch drags Clutch out of adjustment Adjust
Some clutch springs are weak, while others are not Replace
Worn or distorted clutch pressure plate Replace
Transmission will Broken gearshift cam Replace
not shift Distorted gearshift fork Replace
Worn gearshift fork pawl Replace gearshift fork
Transmission will Broken gearshift shaft return spring Replace
not shift back Rubbing or stuck gearshift shaft Repair or replace
Worn or distorted gearshift fork Replace
136
Engine
Transmission jumps Worn gear Replace
out of gear Worn or distorted gearshift fork Replace
Weakened gearshift stopper spring Replace
Worn gearshift fork pawl Replace gearshift fork
Engine idles poorly Tappet clearance out of adjustment Adjust

Improper valve seating Repair or replace
Worn valve guide Replace
Worn cam surface Replace
Excessive spark plug gap Adjust or replace
Spark plug too cold Replace by hot type plug
Incorrect float Chamber fuel level Adjust float height
Defective generator Replace
Engine runs poorly in Weak valve spring Replace

high-speed range Worn camshaft Replace
Insufficient spark plug gap Regap or replace
Ignition not advanced sufficiently due to poorly Replace CDI unit
working timing advance circuit
Low float chamber fuel level Adjust float height
Dirty air cleaner element Clean or replace
Clogged fuel hose, resulting in inadequate fuel Clean and prime
supply to carburetor
Exhaust smoke is Excessive amount of engine oil Check level and drain
dirty or thick Worn cylinder Rebore or replace
Worn piston ring Replace
Worn valve guide Replace
Scored or scuffed cylinder wall Rebore or replace
Worn valve stem Replace valve
Defective valve stem oil seal Replace
Worn oil ring side rail Replace oil ring
137
Engine
Engine lacks Insufficient tappet clearance Adjust
power Weak valve spring Replace
Mistimed valves Adjust
Worn piston ring Replace
Improper valve seating Repair or replace
Fouled spark plug Clean or replace
Incorrect spark plug Replace
Incorrect float chamber fuel level Adjust float height
Dirty air cleaner element Clean or replace
Worn camshaft Replace
Air leakage from intake pipe Tighten or replace
Excessive amount of engine oil Check level and drain
Engine Carbon build-up on piston crown Clean
overheats Insufficient amount of engine oil Check level an add
Defective oil pump Replace
Clogged oil circuit Clean
Float chamber fuel level too low Adjust float height
Air leakage from intake pipe Tighten or replace
Incorrect engine oil Change
Carburetor
Starting difficulty Clogged starter jet Clean
Clogged starter jet passage Clean
Air leaking from joint between starter body and carburetor Tighten, adjust or replace gasket
Air leaking from carburetor joint or vacuum hose joint Tighten or replace defective part
Improperly working starter plunger Adjust
Idling or low-speed Clogged or loose pilot jet Clean or tighten
trouble Clogged or loose pilot air jet Clean or tighten
Air leaking from carburetor joint or vacuum pipe joint, or starter Tighten or replace defective part
Clogged pilot outlet port Clean
Clogged bypass port Clean
Starter plunger not fully closed Adjust
Medium-or high Clogged main jet Clean
speed trouble Clogged main air jet Clean
Clogged needle jet Clean
Improperly working throttle valve Adjust
Clogged fuel filter Clean or replace
Overflow and Worn or damaged needle valve Replace
fuel Broken needle valve spring Replace
level fluctuations
Improperly working float Adjust or replace
Foreign matter an the needle valve Clean or replace with needle valve seat
Incorrect float chamber fuel level Adjust float height
138
Elektric
No sparking or poor Defective ignition coil Replace
sparking Defective spark plug Replace
Defective pick-up coil Replace
Defective CDI unit Replace
Spark plug is wet or Excessively rich air/fuel mixture adjust carburetor
quickly becomes Excessively high idling speed Adjust carburetor
fouled with carbon
Incorrect gasoline Change
Dirty air cleaner element clean or replace
Incorrect spark plug (cold type) Change to hot type spark plug
Spark plug quickly Worn piston ring Replace
becomes fouled with Worn piston Replace
oil or carbon
Excessive valve-stem-to-valve-guide Replace
clearance
Worn valve stem oil seal Replace
Spark plug electrodes Incorrect spark plug (hot type) Change to cold type spark plug
overheat or burn Overheated engine Tune-up
Loose spark plug Tighten
Excessively lean air/fuel mixture Adjust carburertor
Generator does not Open or short in lead wires, or loose lead Repair, replace or connect properly
charge connections
Shorted, grounded or open stator coil Replace
Shorted or punctured regulator/rectifier Replace
Generator charges Lead wires tend to get shorted or open- Repair or tighten
but charging rate is circuited or loosely connected at terminal
below the Grounded or open-circuited stator coils or Replace
specifications generator
Defective regulator/rectifier Replace
Defective battery cell plates Replace battery
Generator overcharges Internal short-circuit in the battery Replace battery
Damaged or defective regulatror/rectifier Replace
Poorly grounded regulator/rectifier Clean and tighten ground connection
Unstable charging Lead wire insulation frayed due to vibration Repair or replace
resulting in intermittent shorting
Internally shorted generator Replace
defective regulator/rectifier Replace
Starter button does Run down battery Recharge or replace
not work Defective switch contact Replace
Brushes do not seat properly on the Repair or replace
commutator in the starter motor.
Defective starter relay Replace
139
Battery
Sulfation or spots on Cracked battery case Replace the battery

surfaces of cell Battery has been left in an run-down condition for a Replace
plates long time
Battery runs down Incorrect charging method Check generator, IC regulator,

quickly or rectifier circuit, connections,
and make necessary
adjustment to obtain specified
charging operation
Battery cell plates have lost much of their active Replace battery and correct
material as a result of overcharging charing system
Internally shorted battery Replace
Excessively low battery voltage Recharge
Battery is too old Replace
Battery sulfation Incorrect charging rate Replace battery

(When not in use, the battery should be checked at
least once a month and properly charged if
necessary, to avoid sulfation.)
The battery was left unused in a cold climate for Replace the battery if badly
too long sultated
140
WIRING DIAGRAM
141
142

Manual Motorbike Sachs XTC

Transféré par

Informations du document

Description originale:

Titre original

Copyright

Formats disponibles

Partager ce document

Partager ou intégrer le document

Options de partage

Avez-vous trouvé ce document utile ?

Ce contenu est-il inapproprié ?

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

Manual Motorbike Sachs XTC

Transféré par

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

SACHS

Sachs Fahrzeug- und Motorentechnik GmbH · Nopitschstrasse 70

Printed in Germany 2003 11 001

XTC 125 4-stroke

Sachs Fahrzeug- und Motorentechnik GmbH

All figures, dimensions and descriptions correspond to the

See also the "technical information", which provides data

The technical information is intended for master me-

Apart from such information, the usual basic safety rules

Use the tools provided for in the "Motor" section.

This manual is provided only for inter-

Use only original SACHS spare parts.

Sachs Fahrzeug- und Motorentechnik GmbH

TABLE OF CONTENTS Page

Lubricants and operating fluids

- Pilot lights: 12 V 1,2 W

- Number plate light: 12 V 2W

- Turn signal light: 12 V 10 W

REPAIR TOOLS AND INSTALLATION EQUIPMENT FOR ENGINES

Tools without material number have to be purchased from specialised trade.

Repair tools and installation equipment for engines

TOURQE VALUES FOR ENGINE/CLUTCH/GEARBOX/CHASSIS

Tightening torques, gerneral Nm

Tightening torques engine/clutch/gearbox

Tightening torques for chassis

VALVE + GUIDE Unit: mm

CYLINDER + PISTON + PISTON RING Unit: mm

CYLINDER + PISTON + PISTON RING Unit: mm

CONROD + CRANKSHAFT Unit: mm

Gaskets, seal rings and O-rings

- Gaskets, seal rings and O-rings must generally be

Lock washers and split pins

Bearings and radial seals

SFM 835 002.3

- When assembling radial seals (1) make sure that

SFM 835 004.3

Component Servicing Tasks Before 1st ser-

Tappet clearance (when cold): IN.: 0,10-0,20 mm

- Remove the generator cover cap (1) and valve

- Rotate the crankshaft with a box wrench to

- lnsert a thickness gauge between the tappet and

Tool: Thickness gauge

- Check the numbers printed on the tappet shim.

- After replacing the tappet shim and camshafts, ro-

- When installing the cylinder head cover, apply SU-

SUZUKI BOND NO.1207B

- Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts to specifica-

Cylinder head cover bolt: Initial 10 Nm

INTAKE SIDE TAPPET SHIM SELECTION TABLE

How to use this chart:

Specified clearance / No adjustment required

EXHAUST SIDE TAPPET SHIM SELECTION TABLE

How to use this chart:

Specified clearance / No adjustment required

Inspect every 4.000 km

- Remove the fuel tank.

Spark plug Type

Check the spark plug:

- Install the spark plug.

��� ��� �������

Clean initally at 1.000 km

Opening the air filter:

��

��