Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
Salahuddin Bin Azad ID: 092-23-1473 BATCH: 12th Department of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University
Supervised By Abdullah Al Mamun Assistant professor Department of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University
INTERSTOFF APPERALS LIMITED. 100% export oriented knit/woven garments manufacturing and exporting. It
has also fully vertically integrated Fabric manufacturing plant (knitting, dying and Status: Private limited company.
Leggings
Nightwear and School wear etc. The factory ensures Safe/Metal-free garments as per customer's requirements, through practice of Metal Detection & Needle/ Metal Control procedures. IAL has executed following Export Orders recently: Item Men's Pajama Set Men's Lounge-wears Girls Top, Girls' Leggings, Skirts Men's Fashion Polo Shirts Character Printed/Panel Boys' TShirts Baby Wears Children's Sleepwear Mens Polo shirt Boys Polo shirt Customer Bhs Ash City & Bhs Pull and Beer, ZARA, MARKS & SPENCER and Bhs Bhs MARKS & SPENCER and Bhs, MARKS & SPENCER, Bhs Bhs Tesco, Bhs & Ash City Mother Care
Certification of the factory: Wrap, ISO 9001:2000, FLO, CTPAT certified. Stair: 02 (each floor). Exit sign: 24. First aid box: 25. Medical facilities: Full time doctor and trained nurse. Accident log book: Accident log book regularly maintained. Age limitation of worker: Minimum 18 years and above. Fabric and accessories storage: Organization has systematic in house storage area sufficient enough to keep fabric and accessories systematically. All items are hanged with bin card and these are maintained properly.
Different Departments:
1. Management. 2. Finance and accounting. 3. Procurement. 4. Commercial. 5. Human resource, Admin and Compliance. 6. Merchandising. 7. Marketing and development. 8. Garments. 9. Fabrics. 10. Technical service department. 11. Print shop. Board of director: Mr. Nazim Uddin, Chairman. Mr. Shahriar Alam, Managing Director Mr. Shaikh Mohammad, Director. Mr. Naimul Bashar Chowdhury, Director.
Layout for going to the INTERSTOFF APPARELS LIMITED from Gazipur , Dhaka:
4TH FLOOR Human Resource Department, Administration Department, Accessories Store, Sewing Section, Complete Garments Store
3RD FLOOR Conference Room, Garments Showroom, Finishing & Packaging Section
2ND FLOOR Fabric Store (Production), Research & Development Section, IT Section, Procurement Section, Undyed Fabric Relaxing Area, Dyeing lab
GROUND FLOOR/ 1ST FLOOR Fabric Inspection, Dyeing section, Fabric Store (Sample), Security Section, Quality control
FLAMENT YARN
DYED YARN
WEAVING
KNITTING
HAND LOOM
POWER LOOM
WARP KNITTING
WEFT KNITTING
Shrinkag e
Yes
Test
Shrinkage Report
No
Print Requireme nt
Yes
Printing
No
Embroider y Requireme nt
Yes
Embroidery
No Sewing 9
Wash Requirement s
Yes Wash
No
Transfer Print Requireme nt
Yes
Transfer Print
Iron
No
Folding/ Hankering
10
11
Theoretically discussion
DESIGN/ SKETCH:
For the production of knit garments, or woven garments a sketch of a particular garment including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that after manufacturing of that garment could be verified or checked whether could be done manually or with the help of computer. PATTERN DESIGN:
Hard paper copy of each component of the garment of exact dimension of each component is called pattern. The patterns also include seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirts, and pleats, ease allowance, any special design etc affairs. Pattern design could also be done manually or with the help of computer. SAMPLE MAKING:
The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in fabric form are used to sew/assemble the garment. Sample garment manufacturing is to be done by a very efficient and technically sound person. PRODUCTION PATTERN:
The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production pattern. During production pattern making, sometimes it may be necessary to modify patterns design if buyer or appropriate authority suggests any minor modification. GRADING:
Normally for large scale garments production of any style needs different sizes to produce from a set of particular size of patterns, the patterns of different sizes are produced by using grade rule which is called grading.
12
MARKER MAKING:
All the pattern pieces for all the required sizes are arranged n the paper in such a way so that maximum number of garments could be produced with minimum fabric wastag4e. Markers are made for 6, 12, 18, 24 etc. pieces. Marker is also useful to estimate fabricalculations. SPREADING:
It is the process of arranging fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width of the marker in stack form. Normally height of the lay/fabric is limited up to maximum six inches high. But 4 inch to 5 inch height of the lay is safe. FABRIC CUTTING:
On the fabric lay/spread the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately, and pinned with the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight knife cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component as per exact dimension of each patterns in stack form, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects. SORTING/ BUNDLING:
After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on eachpattern. SEWING OR ASSEMBLING:
It is the most important department/ section of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations. Number of sewing machine per line varies from 20 noses to 60 noses depending on the style of the garment to be produce. Production pr line pr hour also varies from 100 to 150 pieces depending on specific circumstances.
13
INSPECTION:
Each and every garment after sewing passes through the inspection table/ point, where the garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to detect/find any defect if present in the garment. The defects may be for example variation of measurement, sewing defect, fabric defects, spots etc. if the defect is possible to overcome, then the garment is sent to the respective person for correction. If the defect is not correction able, then the garment is separated as wastage. PRESSING/ FINISHING:
After passing through the inspection table, each garment is normally ironed/ pressed to remove unwanted crease and to improve the smoothness, so that the garments looks nice to the customer. Folding of the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garments as per required dimension. FINAL INSPECTION:
It is the last stage of inspection f the manufactured garments on behalf of the garment manufacturing organization, to detect any defective garments before packing. PACKING:
After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with important information in printed form which is seen from outside the cartoon easily. 15. Dispatch: The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the dispatch department or finished product god own, from where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.
14
15
Entrance
Pattern table
I
Pattern table
Rack
Ironing table
Sewing tables
Sewing tables
Sewing tables
Toilet
16
Sewing tables
17
Quality check:
Extra thread & extra fabric cutting. Dirty spots are removed by cleaning gun & air. (When cleaning gun is used, extra heavy fabric is used under the sample to avoid of touch of chemical with hand) Print color check. Upper armhole shape should not be v-shape after ironing.
18
19
Fig: Drawing
Art work sheet is papers of from buyer with measurement, sketch & necessary instruction
Merchandising means goods which are bought & sold. Merchandising means the activities of selling or buying of a product. The complete definition of merchandising is following on: All the activities involves in procuring an export order of a specific design of any garment of specific design of quality buying raw materials & accessories to produce the garment, process of production of garment, maintaining required quality level sign between two parties, to arrange shipment with in scheduled time is known as merchandising. Bring the order from buyer and developed the product, then merchandiser give the ordering product sample to in charge of the factory. Duties of a merchandiser: Store Swatch making Approval of swatch Meeting Planning Scheduling Production report Quality report Final inspection Shipment pattern. In charge:
The factory in charge gives the ordering product to pattern master for making sample
21
Pattern master:
The activities of pattern are much more important. He makes the pattern very carefully. A well skilled pattern master is an asset for a factory. Actually bulk production ordering is depending on pattern master activities. Cutting supervisor: After making the pattern, time to starting the activities of cutting supervisor. The person who cut the fabric according to pattern are called cutting supervisor. Then cutting supervisor sends the cutting fabric in sewing section for sewing the garment. Sewing operators: Sewing operators activities are another most thing for a garment. All skilled sewing operators give the factory timely shipment. In sewing section, operators are sewing the fabric according to cutting and give the actual product shape. Quality inspector: After finishing all type of sewing the product send to the quality inspector check the product very carefully. Various types of spots, threads which are not sign for better quality of products are removed by the quality inspector. Ironing: In this section, products are finishing by the ironing. The iron operators does his work very carefully because he needs to avoid the over pressing on the fabric. Final quality inspector: After finishing the ironing, the products send for the final inspection for quality check. In this section, the inspector checks the measurement of all side & compares the measurement with buyer requirement measurement. Packing & send to buyer: After finishing all types of inspection, the products send for packing section for packing. Then finally the products send to buyer for approval.
22
Production per day in sample section: 100-120 pieces. Samples are used for:
Approved to bulk production. Avoid fitting problem. To development of garments. Act as a preproduction.
23
24
Fusing
Toilet
T
T Quality check table
Bundling T
Cutting T.
Office Office
Entrance Lift
Carton area
Manual cutting T.
Manual cutting T.
25
R. A.
Dining room
W.R
Cutting flowchart
File receive Size set Pattern correction Bulk cutting Print/Embroidery Sewing input
26
Introduction:
In garments industries fabric is cut from lay & spreading with accuracy & properly which is termed as fabric cutting. Pattern or marker outline is used to cut the fabric. Fabric cutting is very important as if something is cut in wrong way, cannot be rectified. The accurate cutting of parts of garments is depending on the method of cutting & sometimes depends on the planning & making of marker. In Interstoff Apparels Ltd cutting section is placed on 5th floor. Cad section is also included with cutting section.
Fabric composition, Fabric consumption, color, Yarn count, Fabric weight, Zip, confirmation, First shipment date, Wash/Finish, etc. Size set (Pattern) (Sample) (Fabric) From sample section. From sample section. From store/Dyeing section. Pattern correction (Sewing) (Measurement) (Report/Correction)
Bulk cutting (Pattern amendment) (Fabric arrange) (Fabric relax) (Marker ratio) (Marker) (Fabric lay) (Cutting machine) (Short out) (Sticker) (Bundling) (Reject replaces) 28
CAD
Computer-aided design (CAD) is the use of computer technology for the design of objects, real
or virtual. CAD often involves more than just shapes. As in the manual drafting of technical and engineering drawings, the output of CAD often must convey also symbolic information such as materials, processes, dimensions, and tolerances, according to application-specific conventions. CAD may be used to design curves and figures in two-dimensional ("2D") space; or curves, surfaces, and solids in three-dimensional ("3D") objects.
Name: Lectra. Origin: Germany. Pattern software model name: Modaris 4.2C4. Marker software model name: Diamina V5R2. Plotter machine brand name: Alys 30.
29
Second software:
Name: GT cad. Origin: Bangladesh. Pattern software model name: GT V2007. Marker software model name: GTV2007. Plotter machine brand name: IOLINE F J8. Others machine: 1
Name: Auto cutter machine. Origin: Japan. Brand name: Winda. Others machine: 2
Marker
30
Marker is a thin paper which contains all pattern pieces of a garment of different size for a particular style. Marker is essential for large production.
Automatic laser cutting of pattern. Automatic knife cutting of multi ply lays. Automatic digitizing and grading utilizing scanners.
Marker efficiency:
The ratio of the area used by the pattern to the area of the marker represented as a percentage is called marker efficiency. This indicates the fabric using ability of a marker. So mathematically we can write: Area of the pattern pieces of the marker Marker efficiency = Area of the marker 100
Cutting table: 03. Sticker table: 01. Quality control table: 02. Numbering table: 01. Bundling table: 01. Print check table: 01. TOTAL: 09. Machines:
Spreading machine: 02. Straight knife cutting machine: 09. Fusing machine: 02. Band knife cutting machine: 01. GSM cutter machine: 01. GSM measurement machine: 01. Sticker machine: 06. Fabric weight machine: 01. TOTAL: 23.
33
34
Cutting manpower:
Manager: 01. In charge: 01. Supervisors: 13. Assistant officer: 12. Auto spreader operator: 02. Input man: 12. Bundle man: 22. Numbering man: 06. Writer man: 08. Scissor man: 35. Helper: 24. 35
TOTAL: 136.
of cutting fabric it is most important to take opportunities to remove heat from the knife & it can be removed by sharpening the knife, using anti fusing paper & spraying silicon lubricant in the cutting knife during cutting. The consistency of fabric cutting is an important factor. The shape of cutting parts must be same from up to bottom of fabric plies. Poor skill & concentration in work may cause the inconsistency in cutting. Band knife cutter: Band knives are used when a higher standard cutting accuracy is required. It is also used for cutting less width fabric like placket, neck rib, collars & cuff. Another advantage of this machine is that 90 angle of the fabric possible to cut. Air pressure is used here to move the fabric smoothly. Fusing machine: Fusing is an alternative method of joining fabrics by heat & pressure with interlining. At first the part of garment which is to be fused spread & then the interlining fabric is placed on it & applied required pressure & temperature smoothly. Resin on coating of interlining is melt by heat in to the fabric under pressure. When it becomes cool & hard both the fabric & interlining are attached. This method is only used for joining interlining by fusing but cannot be used for normal sewing. Fusing temperature depends on types of fusing. Too low temperature gives poor flow & poor subsequent adhesion. Too high temperature gives too much flow which reduces the performance. Fusing temperature should be from 150c to 170c .The pressure should be uniform & sufficient during fusing. Too low pressure reduces penetration. Too high pressure provides excessive penetration of resin.
38
Machine specification:
Spreading machine specification: Brand name: Assyst Bulmer. Model name: E 600-30/31. Country of origin: Germany. Quantity: 02. Machine type: Auto. Per shift capacity: 9000*2. Special attachment: Tube/Flat. Weight: 200 kg. Machine volt: 400v, 50 Hz.
39
Fig: Spreading machine. Cutting machine specification: Brand name: Eastman. Model name: KS-AU-V. Country of origin: Japan. Quantity: 09. Machine type: Auto. Per hour capacity: 100-150 lay. Weight: 15 kg. Machine volt: 220. Speed: 300-3600 rpm. Height: 8 inch.
40
Fig: Cutting machine. Fusing machine specification: Brand name: Hashima. Model name: EC-700N. Country of origin: China. Quantity: 02. Machine type: Auto. Per hour capacity: 100. Weight: 220 kg. Machine volt: 220. Belt speed: 30-36 rpm. Temperature: 125-180 degree.
41
42
Check all sensors. Check photo cell of edge filler. Check & clean all drives. Complete cleaning of machine. Check all belts & belt tension. Check cutting device & its gear box.
Other: o Shade problem. o Irregular supply. o Collar problem. o Stripe matching Problem. o Supply of fabric due to Q.C.
44
Introduction:
The driving power of printing machine is switched on to draw the fabric forward and also to drive the printing rollers, and indirectly the color furnishing rollers. The printing rollers, and their pressure against the central large pressure cylinder, cause this to rotate at the same peripheral speed and carry the fabric forward with it. There should be no slip between the fabric thus being printed and the surface of each printing roller otherwise the colored pattern would become blurred. The color furnishing roller picks up color paste from the through in which it rotates and impresses this color on the printing roller. This color paste fills up the engraved parts and the doctor knife scrapes off excess color. At this stage the color printing roller is free from color on its surface except where the engraved pattern is filled with color paste. As the color printing roller comes in contact with the fabric and is presses against it so color transference takes place and that particular part of the pattern is impressed on the fabric. Then, as the color printing roller continues its rotation, the lint doctor scrapes off any pieces of lint, loose fibers or threads which may have rubbed off the fabric being printed. Thus the surface of this roller is maintained clean. Each color printing roller continues to impress its part of the pattern on the fabric as long as the machine is in operation. Naturally, great care has to be taken to adjust the color printing rollers so that the printing on textiles register o contribute their part of the pattern at the correct times and places. The machine has various devices to assist this and the differential geared device is very ingenious and effective. Meanwhile the fully printed fabrics continue to move forwarded to the point at which it 45
leaves the central cylinder. Thence it is led through a drying and steaming chamber to fix the printed colors whiles the back grey is led away to be washed for further use. The blanket is endless and continuous to go round and round the cylinder until it becomes sufficiently soiled to warrant its removal for washing. Printing machines of this kind can be provided with up to fourteen color printing rollers and so they are able to produce patterns in the corresponding number of colors. As described above the machine prints only one side of the fabric. If it is required to print both sides then the central cylinder, with its accompanying printing and furnishing rollers, is duplicated.
Total=110 persons
46
Color man: 03 persons. Assistant color man: 03 persons. Operator: 04 persons. Assistant operator: 04 persons. Quality: 24 persons. QC junior executive: 03 persons. Senior inspector: 03 persons. Expose man: 02 persons. Screen washing man: 02 persons.
Defects in printing:
Color mistake. Print mistake. Fabric size mistake. Print size mistake. Bundling number mistake. Design/Matching problem. Placement mistake. Color shade matching problem.
Spray gun
04.
48
Drying machine specification Brand name: KIPPAX. Model: 1709-PT-01. Origin: Austria. Quantity: 01. Capacity: 200 per day. Temperature: 50-60. Weight: 300 kg. Time: 1hr. Use: For screen drying.
49
Fig: Dryer.
Circular printing machine specification Brand name: MHM. Model: Origin: Germany Quantity: 02. Capacity: 600 per day. Motor type: Servo. Weight: 320 kg. Time: 1 hr. Use: For circular printing.
50
Curing machine specification Brand name: MHM. Model: Sync 05. Origin: Germany Quantity: 02. Capacity: 60 per hr. Motor type: Servo. Weight: About 250 kg. Time: 1min per piece. Use: For more stability of color.
52
A screen is 50 times used. After using 1 time its needed to rectifying by wash by strip powder.
Printing types: Water base Plastics sale print. Puff print. Glow in the dark print. Striker print. Flock print. Pigment print. Discharge print. Foil print. Gloss print. Glitter print. Rubber print. 54 Oil base Water base Oil base Water base Oil base
Chemicals used in printing: Hardener: o To fix the emulsion. o To stable the design during screening. Photo emulsion: o To prepare the screen. 55
56
Sewing table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Inspection table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Inspection table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Sewing table
Entrance
Toilet
Lift
Office Office
57
Toilet
Toilet
Related machine collection Man power Process layout Sewing Quality check Out put garment
Inside leg
59
Leg opening T-Shirt Neck Shoulder Back tape Front neck stitch Shoulder Sleeve opening Chest Side seam
Hem depth
SEWING SECTION
List of observation of products Sl 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. Date 13/02/10 14/02/10 Product name Top Top Short Bottom T-Shirt Bottom T-Shirt T-Shirt Top T-Shirt T-Shirt Top Top Polo Shirt Polo T-Shirt Mans Polo Polo Shirt Mans Polo Polo Polo Polo Buyer name M&S T J Maxx D-Hams 61 Style 3668T 4707 3024 3660C 3023 4435 7260 3900J 1879I 3618C 4706E 3629N 3545 7244E 1881I 561 129 322 129 561 057 Size 5-6 12-18 11-12 12-18 6-7 11-12 2-3 to 5-6 6-7 11-12 18-24 18-24 18-24 18-24 2-3 9-10 14-16 5-6 7-8 8-10 XXL 15-16 Color Yellow Pink Grey White Grey mix Yellow White R&W Pink Blue Pink Red White White Purple pink Green Orange Orange O&N Red White
Top Bottom T-Shirt Polo Shirt Bottom Top Top Top Polo Shirt
Student Signature
LIST OF MACHINE (GARMENTS) IN INTERSTOFF APPARELS LIMITED Sl no 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. Name of machine Plain machine(Juki) Overlock 4 thread(Yamato) Overlock 4 thread(Yamato), Cylinder Overlock 4 thread(Yamato),Roller Overlock 6 thread(Yamato) Overlock 4 thread(Juki) Overlock 4 thread(Juki) Flatlock m/c(Yamato), Flatbed Flatlock m/c(Yamato), Binding Flatlock m/c(Yamato), Narrow Flatlock m/c(Yamato), Compressor Flatlock m/c(Yamato) Flatlock m/c(Juki), Flatbed Flatlock (Pegasus), Cylinder bed Vertical machine(Juki) Button stitch machine(Juki) Hole stitch machine(Juki) Barteck machine(Juki) Thread recoining machine(Hashima) Snap button (Premium) Diamond attach machine Belco attach machine(Juki) Back tape machine(Kansai) 62 HING Quantity =341 =224
SEWING
=119
CUTTING
=83
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Fusing machine(Hashima) Spreading machine(Bulmer) Cloth cutting machine(Km) Band knife(Hashima) Number sticker machine Steam iron(Naomato) Metal detector Thread sacking machine Thread sacking machine Vacuame table Heat transfer machine Strapping machine(Toyo) Spot remover machine
=26
=172
GRAND TOTAL=965
63
64
Machine layout:
Date-07/03/10, 3rd floor Line-1A Table Line-1B Table Line-4A Table
F/L
O/L
P/M
P/M
P/M
O/L
P/M
F/L
O/L
P/M
P/M
O/L
F/L
F/L
P/M
F/L
F/L
P/M
P/L
O/L
O/L
P/M
F/L
O/L
O/L
P/M
O/L
O/L
O/L
P/M
F/L
F/L 65
O/L
O/L
O/L
O/L
P/M
P/M
O/L
F/L
P/M
P/M Table
P/M
F/L Table
P/M
P/M Table
P/M
100
Numbers of produce garment SMV = 100 Number of workers working min SMV quantity = 100 Number of workers working min Line efficiency: Total earned min = Total available min
100
Total earned min: Number of produced garment SMV of that garment. Total available min: Number of workers working min. Rating: 66
Predetermined time = Actual time SMV: Observed cycle time rating factor (1 + AF) Normal time (1 + AF) Normal time: Average time rating factor
Machine specification:
Plain machine specification: Brand name: Juki, Brother. Model: DDL8700-7, S-7200B-403. Needle: 1 (DB*1). Origin: China, Japan. Quantity: 341 pieces. R.P.M.: 5000(maximum). Capacity: As per operator efficiency. Pressure foot: 10 m.m. (standard). Max-13 m.m. Max stitch length: 4 m.m. Lubricating oil grade: 7. Weight: 115 kg/253 lbs. Motor type: Servo. Bobbin: 1.
67
Fig: Plain machine Over lock machine specification: Brand name: Yamato. Model: AZ8125G. Needle: 2 (DC). Origin: Japan. Quantity: 224 pieces. R.P.M.: 7500(maximum). Capacity: As per operator efficiency. Pressure foot: 6 m.m. Max stitch length: 1.0-4.0 m.m. Lubricating oil grade: 28. Weight: 26 kg. Motor type: Clutch. Looper: 2, 3.
68
Flat lock machine specification: Brand name: Yamato, Juki. Model: VG 2713-HF-7723. Needle: 2, 3, 4 (UY128). Origin: Japan. Quantity: 200 pieces. R.P.M.: 6000(maximum). Capacity: As per operator efficiency. Pressure foot: binding m.m. Max stitch per inch: 13-14. Lubricating oil grade: 28-30. Weight: 42 kg. Motor type: Servo. Looper: 2, 3.
69
Special machine specification (Button stitch) Brand name: Juki. Model: LK-1902 A. Origin: Japan. Quantity: 12. R.P.M.: 3000. Motor type: Servo. Stitch length: 0.1 mm. Pressure foot: 13 mm. Needle: DP 17. Lubricating oil grade: 2. Weight: 42kg + control box 16.5 kg=58.5 kg.
70
Label joint. Back tape joint. Back tape top stitch. Pocket joint. Placket box. Zipper joint. Body hem tuck. Pocket top stitch. Ribs tuck. Rib folding tuck. Piping. False hem tuck. In seam tuck. Twill tape joint. Placket top stitch. Plackets tuck. V-neck joint. 71
Elastic tuck. Noses tuck. Waist tucks. Loop tucks. Shoulder binding. Collar tuck at body. Collar piping. Elastic insert at waist. Tuck at sleeve end. Sateen tapes join. Mock tuck. Mock joint. Neck top stitch. Shoulder top stitch. Arm hole top stitch. Sleeve hem. Body hem. Leg hem. Laid on tape top stitch. Front rise top stitch. Back raise top stitch. Zigzag. Pocket hem. Panel top stitch. Shoulder to Shoulder top binding. Lay on tape joint. False sleeve hem. Cuff top stitch. 72
Top stitch at waist band. Side seam top stitch. top stitch. Mock piping. Side top stitch. Neck piping. Arm whole piping. Shoulder piping. Back tape joint. Waist band rolling.
Neck joint. Sleeve joint. Contrast joint. Panel joint. Side seam. In seam. Cuff joint. Back rise. Front rise. Elastic rolling. Waist joint. Moon rolling. Neck piping. Shoulder joint. Collar attaching. 73
Mock joint. Waist band attach. Bottom sharing. Bottom joint. Elastic over lock. Mock over lock. Rib hem piping. Body hem piping. Blind stitch. Sleeve piping. Bottom piping. Pocket rolling. Waist band rolling. Stab stitch. Lay on tape joint. Pquiting. Back tape joint. Panel top stitch. Arm hole top stitch. Side tape joint.
Over lock machine: Guide is not used in over lock machine. 3 threads & 2 looper are used in this machine. Also besides using of needle & looper are up down according by comments.
Folders:
Folder has no name but it has variety size: 34cm, 35cm, 36cm, 38cm, 15cm, 16cm, 09cm etc.
75
To do anything for getting high output production rate and improve efficiency.
Shoulder joint Over lock machine Label Label joint Plain machine Neck Neck joint Over lock machine
77
78
Responsibilities of a supervisor:
To be informed about the style. Sample collection from cutting section. Collect input from cutting. Man & machine layout. Identification of bottleneck point. Accessories collection from store. Line balancing. To be aware of line upgrade information. Target fills up. Solve all problems during sewing. Hourly production sheet fill up.
79
Log sheet fill up. Motivate the operators. Discipline maintains. Quality maintains. Information of product & sewing quantity. To be informed of shipment information.
15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
Back tape joint Front neck joint Back tape top stitch Sleeve piping joint Sleeve joint Arm hole top stitch Side seam False joint Body hem Side seam Back tape tuck
Plain Flat lock Plain Over lock Over lock Flat lock Over lock Over lock Flat lock Over lock Plain
2 2 2 3 4 2 4 3 3 4 2
Shoulder up down. Sleeve up down. Wrong size label joint. Needle mark. Iron problem. Print spot. Oil spot. Dirty spot. Twisting problem. Uneven placket box. Stitch open. Wrong trims. Faulty trims. Slanted. Fullness. Pleat. Raw edge.
Breakdown of operation. Control of work flow. Proper use of man, materials and machine. Using right pupil at right time. Using appropriate machinery. Evaluate the system correctly.
83
Finishing Store
Board room
84
Poly Poly
Fabric receive
Fusing area
Spot lift
Toilet
Finishing flowchart
Fabrics receive Fusing (if required) Fabric set for iron Ironing Quality check Counting Measurement check Get up check 85
Needle check Hanger Price sticker Quality check (label) Pound sticker Folding Poly Transit label Packaging Final check Carton
Object of finishing:
-Improve the dimensional stability of the fabric -Modify the handle of fabric -Improve the appearance of fabric -Improve the durability of the fabric -Modify the serviceability of the fabric
Process description:
Fusing Finishing section received their input from sewing section & gave them to press fusing machine for fusing, if it required. Fusing is an alternative method of joining of fabrics. At first the part of garment which is to be fused spreaded & then, the resinated interlining 86
surface is placed on it & applied required pressure & temperature smoothly. Resin on coating of interlining is melt by heat into the fabric under pressure, when it becomes cool & hard both the fabric & interlining are attached. Ironing All garments are ironing by stem. Ironing temperature is fixed by buyer. This ironing is helped in garments for fixing their shape. Ironing improves the fastness, softness, good handling & good looking of garment. Metal detection All garments are passed into metal detection machine after running & measurement checking. The job of this machine is to identify the any metal parts like broken needle parts, pin etc & give signal for finding this metal & garments are free from accident. Folding Folding area is start from metal detection machine, and then garments are divided into style, size, and color, arranged them to take size sticker. Then garments are in hanger with sizes, sewing ticket, and price sticker. Packing In poly pack area garments are packing in poly pack with fixed measure which is get from buyer, attach with transit label then send to packing.
Machine specification:
Press fusing machine specification: Brand: CHHU. Model: SC63*75. Quantity: 4. Origin: China. Weight: 30-35 kg. Manpower: 04 persons. Time: 10-12 sec. Temp: 180-185. Pressure: Air: (6kg-7kg). Use: Fusing, transfer print etc. 87
88
Before start of the operation, operators adjust the machine temperature as per the standard. Shut off the machine & lock out the power source when not in use.
Metal detector machine specification: Brand: Met 30+. Model: 27836-1. Quantity: 02. Origin: England. Weight: 280 kg. Manpower: 02 persons. Capacity: 3000 per hour. Motor: Servo.
89
Senior supervisors: 03 persons. Supervisors: 15 persons. o Spot: 01 person. o Fusing: 02 persons. o Iron: 04 persons. o Folding: 07 persons. o Packing: 03 persons. o Wash: 01 person.
TOTAL=470 PERSONS
Use all at normal mode. Place garment gently on the conveyor belt and pass through the tunnel lengthwise. Pack into carton box immediately. Mark record. Procedure is finished (if not alarming) If alarming Remove garment and pass to supervisor Mark down on log book Metal object found and remove.
Iron machine specification: Brand: Macpi. Model: 167701. Quantity: 70. Origin: Bangladesh. Weight: 80 kg. Manpower: 70 persons. Time: 2 min per garment. Types: 2. Voltage: 200 volt. Motor: 400 w. 92
Machines: 93
Production per day in finishing section: 30-35 thousand pieces. Types of folding:
Board folding. Hanger folding. Solid folding. Blister folding. Ratio folding.
Type of packing
Solid size packing. Ratio packing. Assort packing.
Types of carton:
Box carton. Plain carton. Master carton. Inner carton.
Types of poly:
Single. Ratio. Assort. 94
Finishing accessories:
Size sticker. OVL stocker. TRL sticker. Box label. Showing ticket. Power sticker. Hanger size. Price ticket. Hand tag. Poly. Carton. Gum tape.
Metal punch.
Ok Carton
Tuck mistake. Without tuck. Puckering. Shoulder up down. Sleeve up down. Wrong size label joint. Without Barteck. Shading. Needle mark. Embroidery problem. Iron problem. Print spot. Oil spot. Dirty spot. Fabric fault. Fabrics reject. Sewing reject.
98