TEXTILE & APPAREL INSPECTION SERVICES, CO.

Identification of Fabric defects

Often inspectors are given the responsibility of inspecting finished garments without adequate training in fabric defects and their causes. The ultimate solution, of course, is to provide actual examples or photographs of both major and minor defects. This section provides a list of defects and explanations and simplifies the language and the judgments used in making visual fabric evaluations. The Quality Control Manager can provide this list to inspectors as a practical tool for achieving uniform inspection decisions.

Major and Minor Defects The following definitions are central to fabric inspection: Major Defect - A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item to be a second. (A "second" is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the salability or serviceability of the item. Minor Defects - A defect that would not cause the product to be termed a second either because of severity or location. When inspecting piece goods prior to cutting, it is necessary to rate questionable defects as major, since the inspector will not know where the defect may occur on the item.

Woven Fabric Defects

Defect Burl Mark Explanation When a slub or extra piece of yarn is woven into the fabric, it is often removed by a "burling tool." This will usually leave an open place in the fabric. Drawbacks Caused by excessive loom tension gradually applied by some abnormal restriction. When the restriction is removed the excess slack is woven into the fabric. Usually the ends are broken Dropped Pick Caused by the filling insertion mechanism on a shuttleless loom not holding the filling yarn, causing the filling yarn to be woven without tension. The filling yarn appears as "kinky." Severity Major

Major

Major

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There will also be areas of "end out." Caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to run with missing end. Caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvage. Caused by tying spools of yarn together

End Out Jerk-in

Major

Major or Minor Knots Usually Minor Mixed End Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the wrap Usually (Yarn) frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric. Major Mixed Filling Caused by bobbin of lightweight yarn or different Major fiber blend used in filling. Will appear as a distinct shade change. Open Reed Results from a bent reed wire causing wrap ends Major to be held apart, exposing the filling yarn. Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored yarns on wrap and shuttle. Slub Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is Major woven into fabric. It can also be caused by thick or places in the yarn. Often is caused by fly waste Minor being spun in yarn in the spinning process. Smash Caused by a number of ruptured wrap ends that Major have been repaired. Soiled Filling Dirty, oil looking spots on the wrap or filling Major or End yarns, or on package-dyed yarn. Stop Mark When the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates Can be under tension; when loom starts again' the Major slackness is woven into the fabric. or Minor Thin Place Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the Major loom continuing to run until the operator notices the problem.

Knitting Defects
Defect Barre Explanation Occurs in circular knit. Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine. Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks. Caused by unintentional tucking from Severity Usually Major Major

Birdseye

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small or Minor dependi ng on severity Broken Color Usually caused by colored yarn out place on Major Pattern frame Drop Stitches Results from malfunctioning needle or jack. Will Major appear as holes or missing stitches. End Out Hole Missing Yarn Occurs in wrap knit. Results from knitting machine continuing to run with missing end. Caused by broken needle. Occurs in circular knit. Caused by one end of yarn missing from feed and machine continuing to run. Occurs in wrap knit. Results from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on wrap. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for dye. Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches. Usually verticals line. Usually Major Major Major malfunctioning needle. Usually distorted stitches, side by side. two

Mixed Yarn

Major

Needle Line

Press-Off

Runner

Slub

Major or Minor Results when all or some of the needles on Major circular knitting fail to function and fabric either falls off the machine or design is completely disrupted or destroyed. Many knitting needles are broken and have to be replaced when bad pressoff occurs. Bad press-offs usually start a new roll of fabric. Caused by broken needle. Will appear as vertical Major line. (Most machines have a stopping device to stop machine when a needle breaks.) Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn, Major or by lint getting onto yarn feeds. or Minor

Dyeing or Finishing Defects

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Defect Explanation Askewed or Condition where filling yarns are not square with Bias wrap yarns on woven fabrics or where courses are not square with wale lines on knits. Severity Major or Minor dependi ng Back Fabric Backing fabric is often used to cushion fabric Major Seam being printed. If there is a joining seam in the Impression backing fabric, an impression will result on printed fabric. Bowing Usually caused by finishing. Woven filling yarns Major lie in an arc across fabric width; in knits the or course lines lie an arc across width of goods. Minor Establish standards of acceptance. Critical on stripes or patterns; not as critical on solid color fabrics. Color Out The result of color running low in reservoir on Major printing machine Color Smear The result of color being smeared during printing. Major or Minor Crease Mark Differs from crease streak in that streak will Major probably appear for entire roll. Crease mark appears where creases are caused by fabric folds in the finishing process. On napped fabric, final pressing may not be able to restore fabric or original condition. Often discoloration is a problem. Crease Streak Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased Major fabric passing through squeeze rollers in dyeing or Minor, process. Depending on the product; usually Major for fashion outerwear, Minor for underwear. Dye Streak in Results from a damaged doctor blade or blade not Major Printing cleaned properly. Usually a long streak until the operator notices the problem. Mottled Color applied unevenly during printing Major or Minor

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Pin Holes Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through tenter frame. Major> if pin holes extend into body of fabric far enough to be visible in the finished product. Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize; usually caused by defective spray heads. Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting table. Difficult to detect during inspection on inspection machine with fabric under roller tension. The result of fabric being folded or creased when passing through printing machine. There will be areas not printed. Usually caused by excessive tension while processing through tenter frames. Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long before drying; color migrates leaving blotchy spots. Major,

Sanforize Pucker

Major or Minor

Scrimp

Major

Selvage Torn Water Spots

Major Major

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