SPREADING AND CUTTING

SEQUENCE OF ACTIVITIES FOR CUTTING DEPARTMENT

MARKER MAKING; a marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for the sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from a single spread. marker making : 1. drawn by chalk on the top most layer of fabric 2. drawn in a piece of paper which is placed on top ( patterns are cut with allowance or without allowance)

SPREADING-placement of the plies one upon the other. CUTTING 1. Block chopping(for matching fabrics-i.e stripes and checks) 2. Pattern chopping-final cuttingfor plain fabric

SEQUENCE OF ACTIVITIES FOR CUTTING DEPARTMENT

SEQUENCE OF ACTIVITIES FOR CUTTING DEPARTMENT

POSITION MARKING Notch marking.straight notch(positioning) v notch(at curves) SHADING OR TICKETING SLOPING/RESPREADING-for pattern chopping BUNDLING-sorting and stacking

SYMMETRIC AND ASSYMMETRIC DESIGN FABRIC

SYMMETRIC AND ASYMMETRIC PATTERN TYPES

SYMMETRIC PATTERN ASYMMETRIC PATTERN

MARKER MODES
NAP EITHER WAY NAP UP AND DOWN NAP ONE WAY

SPREADING MODES
FACE TO FACE FACE UP

Straight Knife
Two kinds of power are required to operate a straight knife. Motor power drives the reciprocating blade and operator power drives the knife through the lay. Advantages: It is most common means of cutting lays because it is versatile, portable, cheaper than a band knife, more accurate on curves than a round knife, relatively reliable and easy to maintain.

Straight knife parts

(a) Machine base plate. (b) The blade housing. (c) The power system. (d) Blade drive (e) The cutting blade. (f) The blade sharpener device (g) The operating handle (h) The blade guard.

Straight knife

Straight Knife specification

Blade types: 1. Straight 2. Saw tooth-for thick fabric like canvas/jeans. 3. Wavy fabric-for synthetic fabric since heat generated is low.

Rotary cutting machines

-the basic difference between the rotary and straight machines are the blade shape and blade thrust. The rotary cutting machine has a circular knife whose edge rotates counterclockwise into the superposed plies as the machine is propelled laterally into the spread. -This cuts the fabric with one way thrust of the blade edge, whereas the st. knife cuts with a two way thrust ,up and down.

Rotary cutting machines

Rotary cutting machines

Advantage: It is a fast machine , excellent for cutting straight lines or gradual curves. Disadvantages: It is difficult for a circular blade to negotiate a tight curve, such as an arm hole.

Band knife machines.

Band knife blades are narrower than straightknife blades . This permits more precise perpendicular cutting on small intricate curves and angles. The turning of the block on the narrower blade disrupts the superposed plies less than the wider blade of a turning st. knife in the same block. Tables usually have an air floatation system.
The fabric is either pulled back or pushed into the cutting blade.

Band knife machines.

Advantages: Band knifes are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required. They are used more in mens wear than in womens wear as they are often used to cut large garment parts, such as large panels of jackets and overcoats.

Band knife machines

Elimination of fabric faults:

1. Make through-by leaving faults in garments and inspecting out at the end of manufacture and designating them as seconds. 2. Splice marking-Cutting out the defective portion by creating a splice. splice marks are marked on the edges of the table before layering. 3. Sort and cut method-faults are marked by a strip of contrasting fabric at the side of the lay and later recutting the piece.

REVISION
Sequence of activities in cutting. Symmetric and asymmetric design. Symmetric and asymmetric garment. Marking mode-n/e/w,n/u/d,n/o/w Spreading mode-f/f,f/up Cutting machines

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