REPORT ON STUDY OF VARIOUS PROCESSES IN GARMENT INDUSTRY WITH REFERANCE TO,

ESTEAM APPAREL SERVICES PVT. LTD., MIRAJ

PREPARED BY, VISHNU PAREEK, NIKHIL BHOSALE, PRANALI PATIL, PATIL

Under the INPLANT TRAINING D.K.T.E. Textile & Engg. Institude, ICHALKARANJI.
PENNY SHIRT

NO.
1

INDEX
FABRIC DEPARMENT
FABRIC CHCKING FABRIC SHADE GSM

CUTTING DEPARMENT
CUTTING MACHINE

SEWING DEPARMENT
M/C LAYOUT TIME STUDY PROCESS FLOW SEWING M/C

FINISHING DEPARMENT
TIME STUDY

5 6

THREAD CONSUMPTION COSTING SHEET

CUTTING COST SHEET STITICHING COST SHEET FINISHING COST SHEET ELECTRICITY COST SHEET TRANSPORTATION COST SHEET PENNY SHIRT

FABRIC STORE DEPARTMENT

PENNY SHIRT

FABRIC STORE DEPARTMENT

PURCHASE ORDER

PURCHASE FOLLOW UP WITH SUPPLIER

MATERIAL RECEIVE FROM SUPPLIER

CHECKING

STORAGE

PRODUCTION ORDER RECEIVE FROM PRODUCTION DEPT.

MATERIAL ISSUE TO FACTORY AS PER PRODUCTION DEPT.

PENNY SHIRT

FABRIC STORE DETAILS

Organic -Fabric Ledger
Fabric Description-100% Cotton Cambric Style No- penny Shirt Count Construction-60*60/92*88 Inword No. Date Day mtr
1 5/15/2013 6534

Colour-Rose Mouyen Width-42" Fabric Consumption-1.13 Date Issu Slip EoNo./Po No. No. Quality Issued Total mtr
140 Send To I.D.T. 802 penny Shirt 11801 penny Shirt 9.45 2 2144

Receipt Total Receipt bundle mtr bundle

45 6534

Balance Stock bundle mtr

6524.55 6522.55 4378.55 4983.55 2602.55 2710.55 Nil

bundle mtr
9.45 11.45 2155

bundle
45 45 45

45 5/15/2013 5/16/2013 5/20/2013 49 5/25/2013

7 5/25/2013

605

4 7139

11802 penny Shirt

2381

4536.45

8 5/29/2013

108

1 7247

50 5/29/2013 11803 penny Shirt 2710.55 7247

Fabric Description-Microdal Fusing Fabric Style No- penny Shirt

4 5/17/2013 700 7 700

Colour-White Width-100cm

Fabric Consumption -0.12

7 5/20/2013 5/25/2013 11801 penny Shirt 11802 penny Shirt

550 200

5 2

500 700

5 7

700 200

PENNY SHIRT

FABRIC CHECKING

PENNY SHIRT

4 Point System in Fabric Inspection

Esteam Apparel Services Pvt. Ltd., are using 4 point system. Dirty mark, Stain mark, Weaving defect, Slub & knots. Bowing are also check, Fabric length also check. Total 40 point are accepting ,Above 40 point they are not accepting reject the fabric.

In the following table the penalty evaluation points has been given for different length of fabric defect and dimension of holes.

Penalty Points Length of defects in fabric (either length or width) Defects up to 3 inches 1 Defects > 3 inches < 6 inches 2 Defects > 6 inches < 9 inches 3 Defects > 9 inches 4 Holes and openings(largest dimension) 1 inch or less 2 Over 1 inch 4

Size of Defect

Calculation of total points per yards

4 defects up to 3 inch length 3 defects from 3 to 6 inch length 2 defects from 6 to 9 inch length 1 defect over 9 inch length 1 hole over 1 inch Total defect points 4x1 3X2 2X3 1X4 1X4 4 points 6 points 6 points 4 points 4 points 24 Points

In 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by unit points/100 sq. yd. Points / 100 sq. yd. = (Total points in roll * 36 * 100)/ (Fabric length in yards * Fabric width in inches) Normally fabric roll containing 40 points per 100 square yard are acceptable Example: A fabric roll 120 yards(.91MTR) long and 46 inch wide contains following defects

PENNY SHIRT

Check sheet or Inspection Format

For inspection a simple check sheet is used. A check sheet includes general details, details of fabric lot, fabric defects according their sizes, summary of fabric defects, quantity inspected and total Penalty points and result of the fabric lot after inspection. Use tally marking for recording Of number of defects.

Gray width
T he gray width means the width of fabric before finishing of fabric.

GSM
GSM means grams/square meter. Take one cut pieces of fabric and cut with GSM cutter then weight on GSM waving machine what over the weight is called GSM of the fabric. Penny shirt GSM=76

Colour fastness
To avoid colour bleeding after washing the fabric want to check Colour fastness of fabric colour or print. Penny shirt= Dry Colour fastness=5 (very good)

Wet Colour fastness =4/5 (good)

Shrinkage of fabric
Take the fabric 50*50 cm and dip in the water up to 10 minute then dry the fabric. Again check the measurement and calculate the percentage of shrinkage. Penny shirt are 0% shrinkage.

Checking of shade
Using colour cabinate m/c Take fabric patch from different roll & place in m/c. By using various light check the shade. There are four type light used-D65-Day light, TL84, UV-Ultra violet, F-Florescent light, fabric colour shade match. Penny shirt are 5 shades.

PENNY SHIRT

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

PENNY SHIRT

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

SPREADING & LAYERING 4.4mtr +58"+100(layer)

PATTERN MARKING AS PER PATTERN

CUTTING AS PER MARKING

SORTING & BUNDLING AS PER PATTERN

STORE READY TO SEWING DEPT.

PENNY SHIRT

Type of cutting machine is used

1. Straight knife cutting m/c

2. Round knife cutting m/c

3.Semi Automatic end cutting m/c

PENNY SHIRT

SEWING DEPARTMENT

PENNY SHIRT

SNUBT PRESSING TABLE COLLAR ATT COLLAR ATT COLLAR ATT COLLAR ATT COLLAR ATT CUFF ATT CUFF ATT CUFF GATHERING BOTTOM PATTI ATT BOTTOM PATTI ATT SLEEVE GATHER PLACKET CLOSING SLEEVE PLACKET FNT BACK SHORTING BACK LABEL ATT PKT FINISH PKT FINISH BONE MAKING PKT BOX MAKING PATTI & PKT CUTTING PKT MARKING W/C LABEL ATT CUTTING RACK MACHINE SUMMARY PRESSING TABLE HELPER TABLE SNLS SNUBT 3T O/L 5T O/L CHECKING TABLE TOTAL SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT SNLS SNLS SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT HELPER TABLE SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT HELPER TABLE HELPER TABLE SNUBT CUTTING RACK SNLS HELPER TABLE SNLS PRESSING TABLE SNLS SNUBT SNUBT SNLS SNUBT 5T O/L 3T O/L SNUBT SNUBT 5T O/L 3T O/L 5T O/L SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT SNUBT

COLLAR E/S COLLAR PRESSING COLLAR MAKING COLLAR MARKING COLLAR BAND HEMMING BAND PRESSING BAND DOWINING PANNEL JOINT CUFF E/S CUFF ATT CUFF MAKING BOTTOM FINISH SIDE O/L SLEEVE O/L SLEEVE JOINT FNT & BACK GATHERING SHOULDER ATT PKT & FNT PATTI PKT O/L BONE MAKING BONE MAKING POCKET BOX MAKING FNT PATTI CLOSING FNT PATTI MAKING FNT PATTI MAKING CUTTING RACK PRODUCTION SUMMARY 56 12 4 40 24.25 24.25 792 594 47

2 4 6 28 2 3 3 48

PENNY SHIRT

TOTAL MANPOWER NO. OF HELPER'S NO.OF CHECKER'S NO.OF TAILOR'S MACHINE SAM TOTAL SAM TRGT ON 100% EFF TRGT ON 75% EFF PCS/HEAD/SHIFT 75%

MACHINE LAYOUT A+B

WASH CARE SNLS LABLE
DNLS

FRONT PATTI ATT.

TABLE TABLE

SNLS

FRONT PATTI CUTTING

SNLS

LOOP MAKING

BOX MARKING
SNLS

FRONT PATTI FINISH

SNLS

POCKET ROUGH CUTTING TABLE

SNLS

FRONT PATTI FINISH

SNLS

BONE MAKING+LOOP ATT.

SNLS

BONE

BONE MAKING+LOOP ATT.

SNLS

BONE MAKING+LOOP ATT. BONE MAKING+LOOP ATT.

CHECKING TABLE SNLS

PRESSING TABLE

PKT FINISH

BONE
SNLS

FRONT+BONE+PLACKET PATTI
SNLS

LABLE ATT. SHOULDER+POCKET+FRONT

SNLS SORTING TABLE

BACK +FRONT+SLEEVE POCKET FINISH

SNLS SNLS

SNLS

BONE MAKING
SLEEVE PLACKET ATT.

SLEEVE ATT
SNLS SNLS

SNLS

SLEEVE PLACKET FINIS.

SNLS

SLEEVE ATT.

PKT. ROUGH STICH

O/L

SLEEVE GATHER
SNLS

SLEEVE O/L
DNLS

BOTTOM PATTI ATT. DNLS

SNLS

BOTTOM PATTI ATT.

O/L

SLEEVE PLACKET FINISH

CHECKING TABLE

BOTTOM PATTI ATT.

SIDE O/L
CUTTING TABLE

SLEEVE +PLACKET+BOTTOM
SNLS

SLEEVE EXTRA PATTI CUTTING MARKING & PRESSING TABLE

SNLS

CUFF MAKING
SNLS

CUFF GATHER
SNLS

COLLAR MARKING +CUFF PRESSING

CUFF EDGE STITCH

SNLS

COLLAR PANNEL JOINT

SNLS

MARING+FUSING TABLE

CUFF ATT
SNLS

COLLER MAKING
SNLS

COLLAR MARKING+FUSING

CUFF ATT
SNLS

COLLAR ATT
SNLS

COLLAR ATT.
SNLS

COLLAR BAND HEMMING

SNLS

PRESSING FOLDING TABLE

COLLAR+CUFF FOLDING

COLLAR ATT.

CUFF FINISHING PENNY SHIRT

Time study with SAM

SR. NO 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

OPERATION W/C LABEL FNT PATTI (FOLDER) FNT PATTI (CLOSING) BOX MAKING BONE MAKING PKT FINISH PKT O/L PKT & FNT PATTI BACK LABEL ATT. BACK GATHER FRONT GATHER SHOULDER ATT. SLEEVE PLACKET (FOLDER) PLACKET CLOSING SLEEVE GATHER SLEEVE JOINT SLEEVE O/L SIDE O/L BOTTOM PATTI ATT. BOTTOM FINISH CUFF MAKING CUFF GATHER CUFF ATT. CUFF E/S BAND DOWINING PANNEL JOINT COLLAR BAND HEMMING COLLAR MAKING COLLAR E/S COLLAR ATT

MACHINE SNLS DNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS 5T O/L 3T O/L SNLS SNLS SNLS 5T O/L SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS 3T O/L 5T O/L SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS

SECONDS 48 60 40 60 90 60 50 30 30 63.4 20 50 60 11 60 35 60 60 70 30 120 40 30 35 45 45 379

SAM 0.8 1 0.67 1 1.5 1 0.83 0.5 0.5 1.05 0.33 0.83 1 0.18 1 0.58 1 1 1.17 0.67 0.5 2 0.67 0.5 0.58 0.75 0.75 6.31

TGT/HR 75 60 90 60 40 60 72 120 120 56 180 72 60 327 60 103 60 60 51 90 120 30 90 120 103 80 80 10

TGT/DAY 600 480 720 480 320 480 576 960 960 448 1440 576 480 2616 480 824 480 480 408 720 960 240 720 960 824 640 640 80

Total

427

7.11

85

680

PENNY SHIRT

Process Flow

WASH CARE LABLE

PKT MARKING

BACK PART

FRONT PATTI ATT.

INPUT (CUTTING DEPT.)

FRONT PATTI CENTER CUTTING

FRONT PATTI FINISHING

PKT ATT.

SIZE LABLE

BONE CUTTING PKT CENTER

BONE PATTI FUSING

BONE PRESSING

BONE PATTI STICHING

SLEEVE PIPING SLEEVE GATHER SLEEVE LOCKING SLEEVE PATTI LOCKING SLEEVE ATT. O/L

PKT O/L

BACK GATHER

PKT FINISHING

BOTTOM PATTI ATT.

CUFF CUTTING

FRONT+BACK
CUFF FUSING
BOTTOM PATTI FINISHING

CUFF MARKING+IRONING

CUFF ATT.
SIDE O/L

FRONT+BACK O/L

CUFF EDGE STITCH

COLLAR COLLAR 3 PIECE JOIN

COLLAR FUSING

COLLAR PIECE STITCH

COLLAR PRESSING

COLLAR MARKING

COLLAR MAKING

PENNY SHIRT END LINE CHECKING TABLE

CHECK POINTS

CHECKING
COLLAR

ON LINE CHECK POINT

END LINE CHECK POINT

FINAL CHECKING

PLACKET

SLEEVE

CUFF

GATHERS

CHECK POINT

POCKET

SIDE OVERLOCK

OPEN SEAM

BOTTOM

LABEL
PENNY SHIRT

BUTTON

COLLAR

UP+DOWN+OPEN SEAM

CUFF

UP-DOWN

DEFECTS OF SEWING

PLACKET

UP-DOWN

SIDE OVERLOCK

OPEN SEAM

BOTTOM HEMMING

PUCKERING+OPEN SEAM

PENNY SHIRT

USED MACHINE

PENNY SHIRT

THREAD CONSUMPTION

PENNY SHIRT

THREAD CONSUMPTION (1 ST METHOD)

M/c nam e

Operatio n Name

Seam length (cm)

Seam seam length length Total (inch)

Thear d (1 cm)

Thear d Total (cm)

Total

Total theard (SL*TL)

Total (cm)

Total (mtr)

(inch)

5 o/l

side att. pkt. Bone front patti

150 72 2

224

88.188976 4

6.5 12.5 10.5 8.6 4.5

42.6

16.771 7

1479.0749 6

3756.85039 4

37.5685039 4

3 o/l

sleeve att.

80

80

31.496063

4.5 15.5 16.5

36.5

14.370 1

452.60090 5

1149.60629 9

11.4960629 9

SNLS

Front patti collar bottom hemming lable cuff bone

68 100 416 2 120 56 1066

3.5 3.3 6.8 2.6771 7 680 2040 20.4

Total

762 1066

254 373.68503 9

85.9

85.9

33.818 9

2611.6758 6

69.4645669 3

PENNY SHIRT

THREAD CONSUMPTION (2 ND METHOD)

M/c name

operation Name

measurment

Cover Factor

Total (cm)

Total(mtr)

5 o/l

side att. pkt. Bone front Patti

150 72 2

19 19 19

2850 1368 38

28.5 13.68 0.38

3 o/l

sleeve att.

80

13.5

1080

10.8

SNLS

Front Patti collar bottom hemming label cuff bone

68 100 416 2 120 56

2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5

170 250 1040 5 300 140 7241

1.7 2.5 10.4 0.05 3 1.4 72.41

PENNY SHIRT

FINISHING DEPARMENT

PENNY SHIRT

Time study with SAM

NAME

DESCRPTION WORKER

WORKER NO

SECOND

TIME (MIN.) AVERGE

SAM

TARGET

PENNY SHIRT

THERAD CUTTING +CHECKING

17

366.6

6.11

366.6

6.11

9.819967267

249.6

4.16

249.6

4.16

14.42307692

204

3.4

204 273.4

3.4 4.556666667 1.25

17.64705882 13.96336767 48

PENNY SHIRT

CHECKING

75

1.25

75

PENNY SHIRT

Style No: PENNEY SHIRT Buyer Name: DPAM

Style Date: 11/May/2013

CUTTING COSTING SHEET DATE:20/5/2013 TO 3/6/2013

NAME PENNY SHIRT FLEETWOOD TROUSER MAXIMUM TROUSER MAXIMUM TROUSER PKT. COTTON SHOPPER ISO THERMAL BAG PICARD (JUTE) SIMOVE SHIRT PENNY SHIRT (FUSHING) PENNY SHIRT FUSHING (COLLAR,CUFF ) TESCO ISO THERMAL BAG TESCO PICARD TOTAL DATE 20-May 22-May 23-May 24-May 25-May 26-May 27-May 29-May 30-May 31-May 01-Jun 02-Jun 03-Jun TOTAL WORKER 28 27 26 27 27 25 27 22 24 24 28 28 28 341 WORKER SALARY (MONTHLY) (C.T.C) WORKER SALARY ( DAY) TOTAL WORKER TOTAL WORKER SALARY (RS.)

PIECE 6054 1314 102 1414 432 5196 2577 100 2006 3416 29547 10351 8874 9066 80449

7280 280 341

95480

TOTAL PIECES

80449

COSTING PER PIECE

1.186838867

PENNY SHIRT

STICHING COSTING SHEET DATE:22/5/2013 TO 13/6/2013

DATE 22-May 23-May 24-May 25-May 26-May 27-May 29-May 30-May 31-May 01-Jun 02-Jun 03-Jun 05-Jun 06-Jun 07-Jun 08-Jun 09-Jun 10-Jun 12-Jun 13-Jun 14-Jun 15-Jun TOTAL

OPERATER 13 21 24 28 26 32 35 33 37 40 49 47 48 48 46 45 42 37 34 28 19 1 733

HELPER 7 10 10 13 12 14 15 16 17 18 18 18 20 21 20 21 21 21 18 17 13 1 341

CHEKER 1 2 2 2 2 3 4 3 3 5 6 7 7 7 5 5 8 7 6 5 5 1 96

TOTAL 21 33 36 43 40 49 54 52 57 63 73 72 75 76 71 71 71 65 58 50 37 3 1170

WORKER SALARY (MONTHLY) (C.T.C) WORKER SALARY ( DAY) TOTAL WORKER TOTAL WORKER SALARY (RS.) TOTAL PIECES COSTING PER PIECE

7280 280 1170 327600 6054 B 54.11298

PENNY SHIRT

FINISHING COSTING SHEET DATE:31/5/2013 TO 14/6/2013 DATE 31-May 06-Jun 07-Jun 09-Jun 10-Jun 12-Jun 13-Jun 14-Jun WORKER 1 9 8 9 10 8 10 14

TOTAL

69

WORKER SALARY (MONTHLY) (C.T.C) WORKER SALARY ( DAY) TOTAL WORKER

7280 280 69

TOTAL WORKER SALARY (RS.)

19320

TOTAL PIECES

6054

COSTING PER PIECE

3.191278

PENNY SHIRT

ELECTRICITY COSTING SHEET

STITCHING CHARGE TOTAL M/C PER M/C COST TOTAL DAYS PER DAY COST OPERATOR TOTAL ELECTRICITY COST IRONING COST

40000 105 380.9524 26 14.65201 733 10739.93 3000

TOTAL

13739.93

OVERHEADS TOTAL TOTAL PIECES ELECTRICITY PER PIECE

3000 16739.93 6054 2.765102 D

TRANSPORTATION COSTING SHEET

ALL PIC TRANSPORTATION COST TOTAL PIECES PER PIECES

6000 6000 1

FINAL COSTING SHEET

TOTAL A+B+C+D+E 62.24728

NOTE: A= CUTTING COST, B = STITCHING COST ,C= FINISHING COST ,D = ELECTRICITY COST E=TRANSPORTATION COST

PENNY SHIRT