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WEDNESDAY, MAY 18, 2011

Method of stitching Katori Blouse


Basic sari blouse draft of front and back are prepared on a folded sheet of paper. Folded sheet is cut along the fold line and the draft of the back is removed. The remaining details are drawn on the front portion.For basic sari blouse draft please refer here.

Step 1 Mark A-B the full length of blouse + 1 on the fold line. On this line Mark point K such that A-K = back neck depth =/12th chest or to taste.

Mark point L on the line A-B such that A-L =front neck depth =1/8th chest or to taste. Mark point D on the line the line A-B such that A-D = scye depth = chest1 or 1. For details about scye depth refer here. A-M = front length + . Draw perpendicular lines to the line A-B from the points A, D, M and B. On the perpendicular line at A mark A-C = shoulder + . On the perpendicular line at D mark point E such that D-E = chest +1. On the perpendicular line at M mark point N such that M-N = D-E. On the perpendicular line at B Mark F such that B-F = D-E. From the point C drop a Perpendicular. It meets the line D-E at the point H. On the line C-H mark points R such that C-R = or . Join the points G and R. Mark point J on the line C-H such that J-H = 1. Mark point I on the line B-F such that I-F = Join the points E and I. Line E-I intersects the line M-N at the point O. Join points K and G by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is back neck line. Join points L and G by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is Front neck line. Now cut along the line K-G-R-E-O-I-B. Separate front and back draft by cutting along the fold line K-L-D-M-B. Keep back draft (on which there are no markings) aside. Step 2

Take the front draft on which neck and front scye Markings are there. On the line D-E mark point Z such that Z-H = 1/2' to 3/4".This is for the bust

measurements up to 33".For bust size more than 33" shift the point Z to towards H and continue. S is the midpoint of D-Z. From the points S and Z drop perpendiculars. These lines meet the line MN at point 2 and 3. respectively. On the line S-2 mark point T such that S-T =1/8th chest -1. For further details about the point T see here. Through the point T and on either side, draw a line parallel to the line M-N. This line cuts the line A-M. at the point 4 and the line Z-3 at the point V. On the line A-M mark point P such that 4-P = 1. This is for chest measurement below 36".For bust measurements 36" and above increase this measurement to 1 or 1 On the line Z-3 mark point Q such that V-Q = 1.This is for chest measurement below 36".For bust measurements 36" and above increase this measurement to 1 or 1 Join P-T and T-Q. Paste a small piece of paper of width 2 along P-X outside the line A-M. Produce the line V-4 to U such that length of line P-T + the length of the line T-Q = length of the line V-U. Paste a small piece of paper of width 2 along the line M-N. Produce line 4-M to X such that 4-X = P-M. Produce line V-3 to W such that V-W =Q-3. Join U-X. On U-X mark point Y such that X-Y = 1. Join W-Y by a curved line as shown in the figure. Produce T-2. It cuts the line W-Y at point 5. At this point take a dart of . Point 1 is the midpoint of the front neck line. L-G. Join 1 and Z by a curved line as shown in the figure. There are three pieces in the draft. I have coloured them with different colours .Please see figure 3.

We have to separate them. Piece no 1 is side piece. Piece no 2 is Katora piece . Piece no 3 is Under bust piece. Cut front neck line along the line L-I-G.Cut along the shoulder line G-R and front scye shape R-J-E. Cut along the E-O. Cut along O-3. Cut along the curve 1-Z-Q-V- 3. This is piece no 1 or side piece. To separate piece no 2 or Katora from piece no 3 or under bust piece cut along the line P-T-Q. Cut along the line U- 4 -T-V-3-W-5- X-Y-U to get under bust piece.

Waist band 1-2 = (A-B - A-M )=(Full length of the blouse Front length of the blouse) +. 2 to 4 = M-O (refer fig 2) -1. 4-3 = 1 to 2 - or 1. 4 to 5 = . Join 1 and 3 by a curved line as shown. Join 3 and 5. Cot along 1-3-5-2-1. Sleeves Refer sari blouse While cutting the fabric take extra for seams as shown in the figure 5 by dotted lines. Arrow mark shows length wise of the cloth. To get good fitting the Katora piece which is coloured in green should be cut on bias as shown in the figure 5.

Stitching Fold the under bust piece which is coloured blue along the line T-5 and stitch dart. Open the fold and press .See Figure 6 .

Place the under bust cover on the katora ,Keeping right sides together and place D on D, C on C and B on B . See figure 7. Stitch them together along the line D-C-B, from edge. Make small snips along the stitched edge taking care to not cut the stitches. Open and press. See figure 7.

Keep the side piece which is coloured pink on katora and under bust which are stitched together, keeping right sides together and Point A on A G on

G and stitch away from the curved edge . Make small snips and turn the seam and press. See Figure 8

Out of 4 waist band pieces take 2 pieces of the belt and stitch them together along the edge I-J and turn the seam inside fold and press. Place the belt on under bust piece and side piece which are stitched together, matching points F and F and H and H. See figure 9.

This is left front of the blouse. Stitch right front also in the same manner. Complete sewing the blouse as an ordinary sari blouse. You might also like:

Step frock Pavade Blouse( Blouse worn on long skirt)

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Posted by vani at 9:38 AM Labels: Method of stitching Katori Blouse

16 comments:
CraftCrave said... Just a quick note to let you know that a link to this post will be placed on CraftCrave today [19 May 02:15am GMT]. Thanks, Maria May 18, 2011 at 7:26 PM

nirmala said... thanks vani....very clearly explained May 18, 2011 at 8:58 PM

Mahalakshmi said... Lovely tutorial Vani.Though I know this method I was not very confident in trying this out.Now that your tutorial is so good I will definitely give it a try. May 23, 2011 at 6:27 AM

Flutepeace said... Hi Vani, Thanks for you lovely posts. Could you give me directions for making a multiple kalli skirt - skirts used for Kathak performances. How do I cut the kallis without wasting any material. I want them 2 1/2 inches(1/2 inch seam allowance on each side) near the waist which ultimately widens to 9 inches(1/2 inch seam allowance on each side) on the bottom. Thanks, Shaan June 21, 2011 at 1:23 PM

Flutepeace said... Hi Vani, Thanks for you lovely posts. Could you give me directions for making a multiple kalli skirt - skirts used for Kathak performances. How do I cut the kallis without wasting any material. I want them 2 1/2 inches(1/2 inch seam allowance on each side) near the waist which ultimately widens to 9 inches(1/2 inch seam allowance on each side) on the bottom. Thanks, Shaan June 21, 2011 at 1:24 PM

Vani said... Dear Vani, nice blog.. I'm happy to follow! July 24, 2011 at 9:06 PM

crochet work said... Hi Vani I made a bluse with high neck as per your instructions and it came out very well. What to know if the measurements are the same for a open back neck blouse, especially the shoulder and the front darts. Thanks Emma August 29, 2011 at 12:26 AM

vani said... Measurements are same for back neck blouse and front neck blouse August 29, 2011 at 1:50 AM

crochet work said... Hi Vani, Would like to know how to adjust the shoulder and front darts for a open 'U' neck back of a saree blouse. Please also let me know how to

stitch a simple salwar especially how to do the pleats for the front of salwar. Thanks Emma August 31, 2011 at 3:32 AM

vanihegde63@gmail.com said... hai vani, Really i am requesting u for 2nd time about this deep neck katori blouse. i think high neck blouse neck is different from deep neck blouse cutting . Pls. will u help me about this cutting.except shoulder cutting everything is one and same? January 9, 2012 at 4:07 AM

vani said... Expect the shape of the neck and width of shoulder drafting is same. January 10, 2012 at 6:16 AM

vanihegde63@gmail.com said... thank u.I think shoulder deep is also less in the deep neck blouse( compering to high neck blouse)I have tried in many ways. so i am asking . I like your way of teaching.once again thank u January 11, 2012 at 5:45 AM

Aries said... Dear Vani Mam, Can you please tell me the cause of falling shoulder in the saree blouse, the neck is a wide neck. Thanks. May 16, 2012 at 2:29 AM

Aries said... Dear Vani Mam, Can you please tell me the cause of falling shoulder in a saree blouse he neck is a wide neck. Thanks May 16, 2012 at 2:32 AM

vidhya.suthakar said... madam please tell how to make saree blouse knot? i don't no how to stitch the blouse knot May 21, 2012 at 5:04 AM

Rashmi said... thanks for this tutorial.just wanted to know when you are adding extra 1",what does it denotes:inches or centimetres.please advice.

October 5, 2012 at 12:52 AM

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A line frock -variation 1 A line frock with flounce A line Kurthi Anarkali dress top with panels Anarkali salwar set top Anarkali top with panels flaring from the waist Baby's clothes-Jabla Baby's Matinee jacket Basic stitching terms Basic stitches that one should know Basics in sewing-Taking body measurements Bias strips Bishop dress Body measurements Body measurements of babies and children Chudidar pyjama Method 1 Continuous band of triangles or Prairie points or Picket Fence Continuous bound placket Convertible collar Denim pinafore Different types of high necklines Double breasted A line frock Variation 5 Fabric tubes Fairies costume Fitted facings High "V" neck blouse How to fix sari fall How to sew seams - Part 1 How to sew seams - Part 2 How to stitch a nightie How to stitch the neck opening I am deeply annoyed Jabla with frill Jabla with overlapping front kameez with ovelapping front kameez with overlapping bodice Long skirt and blouse Make your own peasant top Method of stitching A line frock with round yoke

Method of cutting chudidar by preparing a bias bag (method 2) Method of drafting and cutting for beginners Method of drafting plain sleeve Method of drafting pyjama Method of preparing facings Method of sewing a slip or short petticoat Method of sewing flat Peter Pan collar Method of sewing Magyar blouse Method of sewing sleeveless blouse Method of sewing zip to a garment. Method of stitching "High V neck" Method of stitching a neck with fitted facing Method of stitching Katori Blouse Method of stitching neckline placket Method of stitching Patiala salwar Method of stitching petal sleeve Method of stitching placket open at both ends Method of stitching sari blouse Method of stitching strap keepers Methods of stitching neck Nehru shirt Night dress for young girls One shoulder dress Pattern making(for begginners) Pavade ( Long pleated skirt) Pavade Blouse( Blouse worn on long skirt) Plain open collar Prepare your own bishop dress collar guide Prepare your own bishop dress collar guide continued......... Preparing draft of A line frock with round yoke -variation 4 Princess seam blouse Puff sleeves with gathers at bottom only Puff sleeves with gathers at the top only puff sleeves with more fullness Puffed sleeves Reversible A line frock Romper simple kameez simple kurthi and Angarakha style kurthi Simple pinafore dress Six piece sari petticoat Some other designs of pinafore dresses Stand collar Stand collar with bow or Tie stand collar Step frock Stitching neck with bias flat facing Stitching peasant top This is to say hello Varieties of puff sleeves from plain sleeve Various types of flat Peter Pan collar

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