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Building your own vinyl vacuum bed (v1.

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Instructions provided by Studio 1024: studio1024@gmail.com

Introduction:

Vacuum beds can be an exciting an arousing experience. The price however is out of most people's
reach. The price for a low end vacuum bed can range from $350 to over $600. While latex is without a
doubt a superior experience, vinyl has some strong merit of its own.

 It's cheaper. It's a lot cheaper. Vinyl goes for between a dollar and 3 dollars a yard, depending
on gage and width. Latex starts at about $10 a yard and goes up.

 Vinyl is also easy to clean, and easy to repair. You don't have to polish it either. Care and
maintenance instructions for latex can be found here:
http://www.baroness.com/support/ABOUTRBR.HTM Where as with vinyl, one of its big uses is
to protect things like furniture. You can sterilize it with soapy water. You can repair it and make
adjustments with clear all-weather tape.

So with that, let’s get started!

Materials:

 2 sheets of appropriate length and width vinyl. Wal-Mart’s craft department sells it by the yard
in a variety of thicknesses. I prefer to grab a much thicker sheet for the bottom, and a thinner
sheet for the top. The size of the sheet depends on how big the person you are trying to put in
is. Wal-Mart sells it at 48 inches wide; some online retailers sell it wider or thinner. In the video
clips, the size of the material used is 7 feet by 4 feet. This costs between $10 and $20 dollars

 You will also need some adhesive. The best I have found so far is 'plumber’s goop', and can be
found here: https://www.hardwareworld.com/Plumbers-Goop-pGJXKNA.aspx with this though,
you do have to use good ventilation. My basement smelled like bad plastic for a few days. This
should cost no more than $5.

 Sandpaper. This is so you can rough up the edges prior to applying adhesive. This will give it a
better hold. You can find this at Wal-Mart or any number of hardware stores. You won't need
much, should cost only a few dollars.

 All-weather clear adhesive tape. This can again be found at Wal-Mart. Duttape brand makes a
great tape. You will need this for reinforcing edges and corners as well as some cutouts. A roll
should cost between $3 and $8 dollars.
 Tubing and cornering. Most hardware stores will sell these. I bought mine from Menards at 3/4
of an inch thick. You may want to go a bit thicker. You will need 3 90 degree corners, and one
t-joint. I was able to get about 10 feet for $1.50. Depending on how big you make your bed. If
you don't already have it, you will also need a hacksaw for cutting the pipe and a drill to make
holes in the pipe. I was able to get the tubing, cornering, and a hacksaw for 11 dollars.

 You will also need some material to fasten the vac-bed closed for when in operation. I
recommend Velcro. You can get 15 feet of it for about $18 here:
http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/570154/Velcro-Sticky-Back-Tape-Roll-3/. If you are
crafty and have a sewing machine that can easily go through vinyl, you can do a zipper. Velcro
makes a much tighter bond though. Since vinyl also sticks to itself, you can also use snaps. But I
highly recommend Velcro.

 A good pair of scissors never hurts either.

 A vacuum with a hose attachment.

Instructions:

Before doing any of the following, make sure to read the instructions in their entirety first. Also,
take your time to make it and don't rush. Patience is going to be the key in getting everything just
right.

Take the 2 sheets of vinyl and place them one on top of another and align them from the corners.
This can be difficult since vinyl adheres to itself. The vinyl sheeting you can get at Wal-Mart comes
with a paper layer. To make things easier, you can align the vinyl with the paper sheet in-between,
then slide the paper away after it's aligned.

Now that the 2 sheets are aligned, you can prepare for gluing the two sheets together. Fold the top
sheet back about 6 inches from the long side. Roughen up the inside long edge on both pieces of
vinyl. Take the adhesive and apply it to both of the edges, and let it set for about half an hour to let
it cure. Then fold the top sheet back over the bottom sheet. Since the top sheet is mostly stuck to
the bottom sheet through friction, if you aligned it properly before you started gluing, there
shouldn't be any problems pressing the edges together. I recommend setting the glue about half
an inch from the edge of the vinyl, and press it together going to the edge.

This is now the left side of your vacuum bed. It's going to take about 24 hours for the glue to
completely dry. In the mean time you can start the bottom edge. Don't forget to sand it down first.
After doing this, your glue line should take the shape of an 'L'. Instead of peeling back the entire
side, peel back a corner, apply the glue, and let it cure for a half hour again, then press and seal it
like a zipper. Start from the corner of the 'L' and work your way to the edge of no glue.

It’s also important to make sure that the corner has a nice seal on it, make sure there are no gaps in
the glue around the corner that may allow the air to escape. At this point, you have to make a
design decision, how the person is going to be getting in and out of the vac bed. If you want it easier
to get in and out of, you can leave the top and the right side free, and after the glue is done drying,
fold it inside out and apply the Velcro (or other fastening material) to the top and left sides. This
makes it very easy to get in and out of, but the seal won't be as tight as you would get if only the top
were open.

If just the top is open, it will be a little bit trickier to slide into, but you will have a much tighter
experience. The rest of this instruction guide is going to assume you are going with the top entrance
method.

While the glue is drying, you can begin constructing the frame. Drying takes about 24 hours.

Constructing the frame is probably the most time consuming process. The first step is to cut the
longer pieces into the right sizes. I use a hacksaw. After I cut the pipe, I put one of the corner pieces
at one end and mark a dot every 2 inches along the pipe, using the corner piece for guidance. After
making the dots, start drilling holes. Every 2 inches should be adequate, but if you want the best
suction, I suggest going 3 rows, alternating the position on the top and bottom rows. But be careful
to ensure you have enough holes, but not too many. The good thing is you can drill more holes or
cover them up with tape as needed.

After the glue is dried, the next step is to turn the bag inside out. You will be able to figure out
pretty quick if the glue is dry by doing this, it also gives the bag a seam. Using the all-weather tape,
enforce the corners of the bag, especially by the opening, this is where it can tear the easiest.

Assemble and test your frame. It’s ok if there is some slack going the long way on your vac-bed.
Make sure that it’s pretty snug from side to side, but loose enough so you can still slide it in and out.
This first fitting may be a little tight at least until the corners are all the way pushed out. If it still
feels too loose, you have more than an inch or 2 of slack, you can fold the slack edge back against
the rest of the bed and secure it with glue or tape, or both. Remember to consider dry times when
using glue.

If you are building an L-shaped vac-bed, this isn’t as much of a concern; you can place the Velcro
where you need to, ensuring a good fit, then trim off some of the extra.

When placing the Velcro on the top, make sure to have some overlap of the vinyl. This will ensure a
good seal. Also leave a small gap for the hose to connect to the frame at the end. Connecting the
hose can be tricky depending on the size of tubing you used for the frame. Duct tape is the universal
adaptor, but if you want a more permanent solution, there are pipe fitting adaptors. Quite often you
won’t need either. The hose will form its own seal with the vinyl and the frame.

The final step is to put in a breathing hole. This is a very important step. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.
The best way to do this is to crawl into the vac bed and get comfortable. Open your mouth and have
a friend make a mark with a sharpie. Crawl out, reinforce the area with some more of the
all-weather tape, and make an incision. If you have a small incision you can easily insert a breathing
tube. (Make sure to reinforce the tube with glue or tape.) Otherwise, make an opening large enough
to stick a mouth or nose through.

You now have a complete vacuum bed, ready to test.

Some final notes:

 Even if you can turn a vacuum bed into a self bondage device, DON’T. All sorts of things can
go wrong. Timers can fail, zippers can break, and people can pass out. You really do need
some supervision.

 Use a vacuum of reasonable power. Don’t use one of those industrial ones unless you want
broken eardrums or blood vessels.

 Feel free to modify this basic design.

 Special thanks to everyone from bound forum and sticky site. If not for you guys, we
probably wouldn’t have done more than one shoot.

 There will be further revisions to this document, emphasizing pictures and diagrams, but
reading carefully should get you through with a good working vac-bed.

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