ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I take immense pleasure to acknowledge the efforts of the following people

who helped me to make this project a reality. I express my gratitude for
their suggestions, guidance and intellectual influence.
I express my sincere thanks to Dr.Prof.H.L.Vijaya Kumar-Principal-AIFD
College Bangalore, for making this project a reality.
I extended my sincere thanks to Prof. N.S.Srinivasan-H.O.D-Fashion and
Apparel Design, for helping me with the project.
The project was completed under the guidance and supervision of Mrs.
Hema Chandrashekhar, my teacher in the department of Fashion and
apparel design. I am grateful of her encouragement and guidance at every
stage of the study till its completion.
I would also like to thank the Vice President Mr. Kunju of Scotts Garments
Ltd for letting me to do the project in this company.
In particularly I would like to thank the Senior Designer Mrs. Anjali, the
Asst. designer Miss Srija, and Senior Designer for men’s Mr. Harish
for giving me the guidance in understanding the functions of garments in
designing and cutting department. Others I would like to thank are the staffs
for their constant support whenever it was necessary.
I am thankful to all my Lecturers for their help and kind co-operation
throughout the course. Last, but not the least, I would like to thank my
parents and friends who always supported in all my endeavors.

INDEX
CONTENTS PAGE NO.

1. Abstract 3-5
1
2. Introduction 6-12
3. Literature survey 13-19
4. Materials and Methods 20-48
5. Result and Discussion 49-56
6. Conclusion 57-59
7. Bibliography 60-63
8. Appendix 64-69

ABSTRACT
2
 ABSTRACT

Fashion refers to the styles and customs prevalent at a given time. In its
most common usage, "fashion" exemplifies the appearances of clothing, but
the term encompasses more. Many fashions are popular in many cultures at
any given time. Important is the idea that the course of design and fashion
will change more rapidly than the culture as a whole. Fashion designers
create and produce clothing articles.

Fashion is what we visualize. It is the inner feeling of every human being to

present him or herself according to their own thinking. Grooming of a
person, through environment, their climatic conditions develop a kind of life
style. Fashion and lifestyle go hand in hand.

There are various norms and patterns laid down by society, and as far as
possible, one tries to adhere to them. Here fashion and society go together.
A person who does not adhere to the changes in the society may be termed
as either old fashioned or misfit and trends exist only where there is fashion.
We see, hear and live fashion. Every human is aware of appearing as the
occasion demands.

3
The clothing industry has always been characterized by change and variety,
but never so much as today until recent times, changes in styles of dress
were very gradual and a popular fashion could have a very long life. At the
same time, the variety and types of clothing produced were limited by the
life styles and conventions of the day.

Casual wear dresses is the general name given to a female’s dress worn for
a market or college going. There by innovative designs were created to
minimize the wastage of fabric as well as to improve the aesthetic value of
the garment and 6 different wear were created.

Using the sketch of different types of simple casual wear was designed and
the fabrics and color were chosen accordingly to the design.

Manual technique was used to place and mark the patterns on to the fabric
in such a way that very little of fabric was wasted. Each casual wear had to
be cut according to the patterns with ease allowance and style features
incorporated to the garments.

The garment components were sewn together and it was finished with a
suitable trims and fasteners.

Hence six different casual wear garments were successfully stitched and
finished. The 6 garments were exhibited for consumer’s approval. The
survey method was incorporated. The data was collected using questionnaire
and the results were very inspiring as design as design 3, 5 and 6 were very
well accepted for their color and finish. The rest of the garment had very
good rating and the respondents appreciated the design and the color
combination.

The garments were well accepted by the respondents and they found it to be
trendy.

4
INTRODUC
TION

INTRODUCTION
Fashion refers to the styles and customs prevalent at a given time. In its
most common usage, "fashion" exemplifies the appearances of clothing, but
the term encompasses more. Many fashions are popular in many cultures at

5
any given time. Important is the idea that the course of design and fashion
will change more rapidly than the culture as a whole. Fashion designers
create and produce clothing articles.

Fashion is what we visualize. It is the inner feeling of every human being to

present him or her according to their own thinking. Grooming of a person,
through environment, their climatic conditions develop a kind of life style.
Fashion and lifestyle go hand in hand.

There are various norms and patterns laid down by society, and as far as
possible, one tries to adhere to them. Here fashion and society go together.
A person who does not adhere to the changes in the society may be termed
as either old fashioned or misfit and trends exist only where there is fashion.
We see, hear and live fashion. Every human is aware of appearing as the
occasion demands.

DESIGN
Design is organization when anything is designed; it is put together with
some intent or goal in mind. Everything that is not entirely accidental is to
some extent designed. Music is designed; our tables and chairs are
designed. Some designs are utterly simple, some astoundingly complex.
Some designs succeed and become popular, some fail. Whenever anything is
done with purpose, it is a designer’s effort. Design is concerned with how
needs are identified, related and in some cases stimulated. It affects the way
in which one material, energy, skills and other resources are employed to
satisfy these needs. Design needs patience and planning.

FASHION
Fashion means many things to many people. It may be looking good, traffic
stopper, stroke of genius, stunning, beautiful, etc.

Fashion is an art, it is a science. To be briefer it is an artistic science and a

science art of learning to combine color, form, pattern, texture for the final
effect.
6
The clothing industry has always been characterized by change and variety,
but never so much as today until recent times, changes in styles of dress
were very gradual and a popular fashion could have a very long life. At the
same time, the variety and types of clothing produced were limited by the
life styles and conventions of the day.

During the past three decades or so this situation has under gone a
complete turn around and now the reverse is true. Today fashion changes
are dramatic and frequent and they are coupled to ann. ending variety of
clothes for every occasion and activity. The pattern making begins with the
draft of the basic dress foundation. The dress contains all key dimensions of
the form and is represented by the basic pattern set. The pattern pieces are
shaped to fit the figures dimension, and the garment fits with the balance of
the figure stance.

Pattern drafting is the system that depends on measurement taken from a

form or model to create basic pattern set. Flat pattern making that depends
on previously developed patterns. The working pattern is manipulated by
using the slash or pivoted method to create design patterns.

The basic pattern set consist of two patterns set of front, back bodice which
represents the dimensions of a specific form of figure. It is always developed
without design features it is always traced for pattern making when using
the slash spread technique.

The most exciting part of sewing, whether you are dress making or sewing
soft finishing is choosing the fabric. Making the right choice is essential for
the success of the finished project. The type of fabric chosen will affect the
drape and handling of the item as well as its life span.

7
Many plain or small patterned fabrics can be cut out quite easily with much
thought as to how the pattern pieces are laid out directional fabrics on
pattern that require greater care when folding, positioning and cutting.

Commercial patterns usually come with a cutting guide. This tells you how to
fold the fabric and arrange the pattern pieces and is carefully worked out.
You may make a mistake if you change things around. If there is no cutting
plan, the following information will be useful. Fabrics are usually folded
lengthways the right sides together. This makes easy to mark the fabric on
the wrong side and allows you to sew pieces together quickly. The straight
grain line is the most important line on the pattern piece. This line is placed
to follow the lengthways grain on the fabric. Laying the different components
of paper pattern of a particular garment is known as layout. Flat open of a
particular width of the fabric by laying the fabric flat open and adjusting the
pattern according to grain line to save the fabric. Before working with layout
is important to know the principle of layout and know the factors that help
us to save the fabric from wastage.

• Press the fabric as well as the pattern pieces flat before laying the
pattern on the fabric.
• Use a large table or any hard flat surface for accommodating your
work.
• If an open layout is used, place the fabric right side up on table. For all
other layouts, fold the fabric right sides facing and wrong sides out.
• Decide on the best way to fold your cloth.
• Fold lines on the patterns must be kept on folded edges of fabric.
• Leave enough space between the patterns for cutting outward notches
and marking seam allowances.
• The patterns must be placed on the fabric in the most economical way.
• Pin patterns to the fabric firmly.
• Take care to use special layouts for asymmetric design and for fabrics
with bold designs, striped and checked designs, designs going in one
direction and fabrics with nap and pile.

8
Casual is the dress code which emphasizes comfort and personal expression
over presentation and uniformity. It includes a very wide variety of costume,
so it is perhaps better defined by what it isn't than what it is. Blue jeans and
a T-shirt have been described as the "casual uniform”. Casual wear is
typically the dress code in which new forms of gender expression are
attempted before being accepted into semi-casual or semi-formal situations.

A casual wear is a medium or loose fitted garment worn by women. If one

takes up the history of women fashion we would notice that casual tops were
worn since the early 19th century, the tops were usually of a loose and knee
level garment which later was applied to any women’s garment consisting of
a bodice.

As per Jane Austin’s noels before the Victorian period the word “dress”
usually referred to a general overall garment made for both men and
women, as the generation changed from the 16th to the 18th century the
knee level tops were reduced little in length and there was drastic change in
fashion these shorter tops were called dress and became more trendy and
fashionable during the early middle 19th century where the new trend started
as youngsters going colleges or normal wear for summers. Later at the early
20th century these tops were very comfortable for summer wears and
demand was more.

Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant, Linum
usitatissimum. Linen is labor-intensive to manufacture, but when it is made
into garments, it is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot
weather.

In the past, the word "linens" was also used to mean lightweight
undergarments such as shirts, chemises, waist shirts, lingerie, and
detachable shirt collars and cuffs, which were historically made almost
exclusively out of linen.

Linen textiles appear to be some of the oldest in the world: their history
goes back many thousands of years. Fragments of straw, seeds, fibers,
9
yarns, and various types of fabrics which date back to about 8000 B.C.E.
have been found in Swiss lake dwellings.

Literature
10
 Survey

LITERATURE SURVEY
According to Harold Carr and Barbara Hartman (2nd edition) the clothing is
laborers intensive and does not require much fixed capital entering into the
clothing industry in relatively early a new entrepreneur needs pre variety
design fare, a niche in the market, some working capital and also a small
amount of fixed capital.

According to John Gillow and Nicholas Bannered the production of

sophisticated textiles within the Indian sub-continent has the pre historic
origins yet through we are spoiled with riches from other. Cultures with a
less procure done. Colombian weavers and embroiders for instinct known of
the Radicals, known of the wealth of ancient India textiles manufacturers has
survived.

According to Z.T Browsicki (2002), woven fabrics are composed of

longitudinal wrap threads & transverse weft thread interlaced with one
another according to the class of structure & form of design hat is desired.

According to William S Murphy(2002) manufacture of yarns & fabric is one of

the most important occupation of mankind. For thousand of years the
preparation of textile fabrics from yarn & weaving of cloth were domestic
occupation, known & understood by every member of community.

According to Chloe Colchester (2002) it is said that the design &

manufacture of textile is one of the out dent industries. It caters for the
11
fundamental human need for clothing & for protection & fulfils a basic
demand for decoration.

According to Bernard P Corbman (2004) a complete knowledge of textiles

will facilitate an intelligent apparel of standard brands of merchandised and
will develop the ability to distinguish quality in fabric & in turn to appreciate
the proper use for the different qualities.

According to Winifred Aldrich (2000) pattern cutting is an executing craft. It

is simple if the basic principles are learnt thoroughly & exciting if the student
is sensitive to the subject & substantial changes in scope & shape which
changes in fashion demand.

According to Helm Joseph & Armstrong (2002), the pattern making form for
fashion designing provides a comprehensive pattern make text, present and
clear introduction with corresponding easy to follow technical illustrations &
make available reference surface to provide variety for motivation of design
& fashion.

According to Gerry Cooklin (1997) garments designs does not exist in a

vacuum bat in the end product of a chain of activities which can be scaled to
start with production of textiles fibers, to yarn to fabric to garment.

According to Helen Joseph Armstrong jackets & coats are outer garments
designed to be worn over other garments. Therefore patterns developed for
these garments should be larger than the figure dimensions.

According to Homlyn, although in fractional terms the Jackets evolve out of

the needs of first should wear, it was an ideal costume dress up noisier as
heroic, tectonic & powerful or to look at it in another way, boarding evil &
powerful.

According to Winifred Aldrich (2002), O S partners in relationships rather

than sole provider.

According to Gerry Cooklin (2000) from about the middle of the 19th century,
ready made garments were based on a very simple sizing system. There
were main sizes in Small, Medium & Large and as the pattern construction
systems of that time equated girls with height.

According to Winifred Aldrich the evolution of the cutting and grading of

jackets. It makes clear the different approaches to tailored cutting,
engineered cutting & style cutting. The rich heritage of the latter comes from
12
the tremendous creativity that was unleashed by women emancipator at the
first of the 20th century and the merging of tailored styles with fashionable
clothing. This section on style cutting has desired some of the cutting
techniques from the period, thus demonstrating the relevance to current
methods of production.

According to the Harold Carr & Barbara Latham (2004) fashion may be
counter garments, setting the trends for a season & need in very small
quantities at high cost. The dominance of the fashion house has declined in
recent years & sharply dictated shapes or hemlines. A strong fashion scene
in the 1980s which is continuing into the 1990s as street fashion.

According to Winifred Aldrich (2000) pattern cutting is a executing craft. It is

simple if the basic principles are learnt thoroughly & exciting if the student is
sensitive to the subject & substantial changes in scope & shape which
changes in fashion demand. There is no limit to the ideas that can be
followed through into workable designs. Pattern cutting is a means of
achieving a shape around the body.

According to Claire Schaeffer the fashion industry has changed dramatically

during the past 5o years, but the equipment and basic sewing operations
used in apparel manufacturing have not. Even so, surprisingly little has been
written about either the equipment or the industry technical sewing for the
apparel industry was developed to file thus need.

According to Gerry cooklin entry to clothing industry has always been every
because of the relatively small amount of capital required to purchase
machinery and the necessary raw materials. For the past century the
industry has been dominated by one simple, cheap and long lived to , the
basic sewing machine and this not only facilitates entry into the industry but
virtually dictate its structure.

According to Winifred Aldrich the elegance and durability of the fabric

depend to a crucial intent on the quality of the materials used in
consequence, the first rule of designing is to exercise great case when
selected the fabric for a garment.

According to Gillian halmon (1997) direct measurement block pattern

instruction are included at the beginning of each section, but it must be
stressed that for the home dress makers a commercial shall pattern is much
easier to use. Direct methods used only be attempted with a tutor available
to advice.
13
According to Virginia stopple Lewis (1984) a pattern should selected to suit
the individuals personality as well as his or her figure and if such a pattern
cannot be combine, or one can design his or her own. In any contest long
before the construction is judged, the general appearance of the garment on
the model or the individual modeling.

According to Gail Devens (2005) reported that the pattern selection has
never been better designer styles are available in same season that they
appear in ready to wear. There are easy patterns for the sewer with limited
time pattern illustration are accompanied by information or recommended
fabric and yardage requirement.

According to Annas Suis Flapper dresses shown as evening dresses became

a less structured, accessories became an increasingly important part of
cutting dress as Charles Worth’s dress of 1922. Feathers are popular as were
turtles and head dress. Dangling earrings long beads and dancing pumps
with ankle straps are now considered as sonorous with the 1920’s look.

According to A.J Chutter said “fully cut linen piece goods length of a fabric,
which garments are cut in a mass; - integrally stitched the shape is
generated in the round during stitching, leaving needle or no seaming”

According to David J “the term ‘fully cut’ describes the process most akin to
making garments from woven fabrics”

According to Stoler, Davis States “accurate cutting facilitates sewing and

improves garment quality. In accurate cutting may cause sewing operators
to have to compensate by stretching or easing to make adjoining parts the
same length. Manipulation of this sort increases swing time and assembly
costs and may cause defects and poor fits.”

According to Jung R and Heyn says “the cutting pitch is the angle at which
the cutting device contacts the spread. The cutting pitch determines the size
uniformity, top ply, of pieces cut from a single stack”

According to Balenciaga, one of the few remaining public arenas for the
traditional full length evening dress is the red carpet. Where the actresses
cause for the paparazzi, Ben entering film awards ceremonies, for designers
it is an important opportunity for publicity and cachet Kall.

According to Eisa Schiaparelli, white is simple impossible impudent becoming

life giving like all the light and birds in the world put together an elegant
color pure and in diluted.
14
According to Lady Puff-garden (1863-1935) put even the plainest women
into a smart dress and in consciously she will try to live up to it.

According to J.Meinnerncy, he believes that the model represents the apex of

millennial post modern society we project into them and ask them to
represent for us. Its pure magic uncompleted by content except for the
simple message. You want this.

According to Michael Southgate and Add Rootsein, when you see the naked
there is not much difference in what they wear and the figure are saying to
you that it’s all about the dress.

According to Winifred Aldrich in the year of Queen Victorian’s diamond

jubilee, she decided upon something special a fancy dress ball which guests
should come in ‘Allegorical orhistorical costume before 1815’. The matter of
what to wear was the subject of much deliberation it was to be the ball of
the year if not the decade.

According to Alexander Black Gianfranco Ferre’s evening dress evoke the

narrow yet fluid fashions of the early 20th century exotic influences from the
middle east and Asia inspired Persian designers to bring abstract pattern and
looser lines of evening wear as in evident in Pauls Poiretys silver cape and
the for trimmed coat in J . Gorge.

According to Douglas, from childhood he learned about the symbiotic

relationship between the architect and builder. I found same symbiosis
between myself as fabric designer and my wearer’s between myself as
fashion artist and my customers as fashion wearer’s.

15
 Material
And
Methods
MATERIAL AND METHODS
AIM: - To design casual wear for women for summer wear using flat pattern
technique.

OBJECTIVES:-
1. To create innovative designs for casual tops
2. To prepare paper patterns for the above designs so that minimum
wastage of fabric is incurred.
3. To cut and sew the garment components according to the design
4. To finish by attaching suitable trims and other accessories to the
garment to improve its aesthetic appeal.
HYPOTHESIS: - Positive Hypothesis
The Garments were well accepted.

16
SCOPE FOR STUDY:-
Casual wear garments for summers has enenormous scope in present day.
New trends, colors, and designs are created with more interest. Since it’s a
daily wear garment, it should be comfortable and cool in summers. The
fabric used should be breathable and must have high comfort level. The
study helps in creating more comfortable and soothing garments in near
future. The importance and demand for summer wear casual tops by
teenagers are increasing day by day.

PROCEDURE:-
Designs for casual tops were created and sketches were made, the linen and
cotton fabric were selected. The color chosen was white and contrast
summer colors.

PATTERN DESIGNING:-
A flat sketch of different types of simple casual tops was designed as per
sampling method, the fabrics were chosen according to the design and
season and colors were matched according to the designs.

PATTERN MAKING:-
This function consists designs to production by producing paper templates
for all the components, such as cloth, lining and fusible, which have to be
cut for a particular garment. Pattern making is a highly skilled technique
which calls for technical ability, sensitivity for design interpretation and a
practical understanding of the process technology used by the factory.

The block pattern method or the basic pattern without style features, with
standard measurements, proportion for the bodice size 34 was taken and
manipulated according to the design being created for the casual tops for
women in summers.

These manipulation was done on paper hence paper patterns were created.

MAKING PATTERNS ON TO FABRIC:-

The manual technique was used to place and mark the patterns on to the
fabric in such a way that very little of fabric is wasted.

CUTTING OF GARMENT COMPONENTS:-

17
Each garment had to be cut according to the patterns with ease allowance
and style features incorporated to the garments.

SEWING OF COMPONENTS
The central process of a garment manufacturing process is sewing. Here the
garment components are sewn together to form a complete garment.

FINISHING
The stitched garments were sent to the trims section for the attachments of
a suitable fastener like buttons, button holes, zippers, hooks, etc. The
garment is then taken checked for protruding threads and trimmed, the
garment is pressed well a neat finish is given.

Hence six different casual wear garments were stitched successfully and
finished.

WOMEN’S BASIC BODICE BLOCK

Measurements required:-
18
Bust: 34”

Waist: 28”

Waist length: 16”

Centre front: 24”

Centre back: 25”

Neck: 15”

Across back: 14”

Shoulder: 15”

Arm hole: 16”

Sleeve length: 8”

Drafting steps:-
Front
Construct a rectangle ABA `B` with A`A and B`B ½ chest+6cm A`A.

NOTE: leave 6cm from edge of the paper.

1. AB= front length in front wind pipe to actual waist line, draw waist
line.
2. AC= ½ of AB draw bust line.
3. AD= ½ of AC draw across line.
4. AC= 1/8 of neck +0.5cm for neck width
5. EF= 1/6 of neck+1.0cm to mark shoulder line, AF draws a diagonal
line up give “U” shape for neck line curve.
6. FG= ½ of FC to mark the shoulder slope and draw parallel line.
7. FG`= mark shoulder line.
8. DH= from RHS to LHS mark ½ of front across.
9. CI= ¼ of bust = 2.5 ease allowance=1cm,.
10. BF= ¼ of waist+2.5cm ease allowance +1cm, now join J-I with
straight line.
11.I-I`= go up 2cm to give arm hole shape, join now G`H` with straight
line with upward curve to give shape for arm hole.
Darts:-

19
To get darts on the front pattern find the bust point, measure both and join
the 2 points. On bust line

X=C to X mark bust width based on bust height.

X=x`=mark required dart length.

Come down 3cm from bust point and draw a stitch line to get the centre of
the dart based on dart allowance, either side mark equal allowance.

Back:-
K=from B` measure upward and mark back length

L`-k-k`= 1/2 of neck to 0.5cm

L-K`l- 2cm draw up wards to mark shoulder.

D`N= ½ bust+2.5cm ease allowance+1cm

C`O= ½ of back across

O-O`= go upward 2cm.

B`P+ ½ of waist +2.5 cm ease allowance-1cm and then join P-O with stitch
line.

L-LI = from 2 mark LI same length and width measurement of LI mark l` on

across line.

H- ½ of L-LI mark into draw the shoulder slope.

L-H- draw shoulder slope based on shoulder length.

P-O-F or with stitch line and now draw an inward curve from O, N, M.

Sleeve:-
AC- full length of the sleeve.

AB- ½ of arm hole

BE- ½ of chest to mark sleeve cap.

AE- divides the line to equal parts both down and backwards 2cm each.

A downward mark 0.7 cm either sides. From arm hole draw a deep curve
from A a`b`cd`.
20
From arm hole draw a curve from Aa`, b`c`d`.

BLOCK DIAGRAM OF WOMEN’S BASIC BLOCK

SCALE=1:8 (1 cm=8 inch)

21
GRAPHICAL REPRESENTATION OF WOMEN’S BASIC
BODY BLOCK
SCALE=1:8 (1 cm=8 inch)

DESIGN-1
GARMENT: one piece garment till knee level

DESCRIPTION OF THE GARMENT: the top has a deep round neck, the
sleeves are puff sleeves and there is also an opening at the neck. At the low
waist level there is a belt which is to give proper fit.

22
SIZE -36

FABRIC CHOSEN : linen

COLUR : off white and navy blue

ACCESSORIES USED : satin ribbon, hooks

STYLE FEATURES : gathers at sleeves, pleated ribbon on sleeves

and at hem.

MEASUREMENT :

Waist – 32”

Hip- 40”

Bust-36”

Shoulder-18”

Sleeve length-28”

Armhole – 16”

Neck depth- 14”

PROCEDURE:-

The garment pattern is adopted by grading the women’s basic body block;
the pattern is made recording the above measurements. This top consists of
three patterns pieces. One pattern for front, one pattern for the back and
third for the sleeves.

A small pattern is cut out for the belt on the garment al low waist level. The
sleeve pattern will be bigger in size; this is for the purpose of giving the
gathers. All these three patterns are made with 1/2 “seam allowance. There
is a opening at the neck where hooks are applied.

First the placket at the neck is stitched, then the finishing of both front and
back neck in done with the same fabric. The shoulders are joined then
following with the sleeves. After the sleeve attachment where gathering
effect has been given at the arm hole, satin ribbon is applied on the sleeve
hem to give special effect. This ribbon stitched along with the hem of the
sleeves by forming small pleats. Same is done at the hem of the garment.
And hence side seams are stitched together.

23
The fabric has been washed before stitching in order to avoid the shrinkage.
Thus such fabric and garment design is very comfortable to wear during
summers.

The edges are finished by folding the fabric.

Then the garment is given a warm iron.

CONSUMPTION PARTICULARS:

The total consumption of the fabric for this knee level top is 2m

COSTING CHART:

24
 DESIGN-1
FLAT SKETCH AND MATERIAL USED

DESIGN-1
GRAPHICAL REPRESENTATION
SCALE=1:8 (1 cm=8 inch)

25
DESIGN-1
LAYOUT
SCALE=1:8 (1 cm=8 inch)

26
 DESIGN-1
PHOTOGRAPH

27
 DESIGN-2
GARMENT: one piece knee length top.

DESCRIPTION OF THE GARMENT: the top has a boat round neck, the
sleeves are full sleeves and there is also an opening at the neck. At the hip
level there is a belt which is to give proper fit.

SIZE -36

FABRIC CHOSEN : cotton

COLUR : white

ACCESSORIES USED : hooks

STYLE FEATURES : broad belt at hip

MEASUREMENT :

Waist – 32”

Hip- 40”

Bust-36”

Shoulder-18”

Sleeve length-28”

Armhole – 16”

Neck depth- 14”

PROCEDURE:-
28
The garment pattern is adopted by grading the women’s basic body block;
the pattern is made recording the above measurements. This top consists of
three patterns pieces. One pattern for front, one pattern for the back and
third for the sleeves.

A small pattern is cut out for the belt on the garment al hip level. The sleeve
pattern is full size pattern little more than the wrist. All these three patterns
are made with 1/2 “seam allowance. There is an opening at the neck where
hooks are applied.

First the placket at the neck is stitched, then the finishing of both front and
back neck in done with the linen fabric in order to provide thickness. The
shoulders are joined then, following with the sleeves. After the sleeve
attachment which is full sleeves little more than the wrist. And hence side
seams are stitched together. The belt at the hip level is made with the same
fabric. The grain lines on the fabric have been taken care of. The neck is
little broad but is not an off shoulder.

Thus such fabric and garment design is very comfortable to wear during
summers.

The edges are finished by folding the fabric.

Then the garment is given a warm iron.

CONSUMPTION PARTICULARS:

The total consumption of the fabric for this knee level top is 3m

COSTING CHART:

29
 DESIGN-2
FLAT SKETCH

30
 DESIGN-2
GRAPHICAL REPRESENTATION
SCALE=1:8 (1 cm=8 inch)

31
 DESIGN-2
LAYOUT
SCALE=1:8 (1 cm=8 inch)

DESIGN-2
PHOTOGRAPH

32
 DESIGN-3
GARMENT: one piece mid thigh level top.

DESCRIPTION OF THE GARMENT: The top has a deep V neck; the

top is sleeveless and has a deep armhole. The top is till mid thigh, it has a
belt at back to give tightness.

SIZE -36

FABRIC CHOSEN : cotton and linen

COLOR : white and purple

ACCESSORIES USED : nil

33
STYLE FEATURES : deep V neck and a belt at back shoulders

MEASUREMENT :

Waist – 32”

Hip- 40”

Bust-36”

Shoulder-18”

Sleeve length-28”

Armhole – 16”

Neck depth- 14”

PROCEDURE:-

The garment pattern is adopted by grading the women’s basic body block;
the pattern is made recording the above measurements. This top consists of
four patterns pieces. One pattern for front upper part and lower part, one
pattern for the back upper and lower part.

A small pattern is cut out for the belt on the garment at hip level. The top is
really stylish and very cool for the summers. There is a belt at back to tie it.
The upper part and lower part is cut separately and are in different colors.
The binding of neck is done with the white fabric. First the front part is
joined fully and similarly with the back. The upper part is in purple color and
lower part in white. The belt is in purple color. There is also a white belt at
back neck; this is in order to support the shoulders. The depth of the arm
hole is till bust. Thus such fabric and garment design is very comfortable to
wear during summers.

The edges are finished by folding the fabric.

Then the garment is given a warm iron.

CONSUMPTION PARTICULARS:

The total consumption of the fabric for this knee level top is 1.5m

COSTING CHART:

34
 DESIGN-3
FLAT SKETCH

DESIGN-3
GRAPHICAL REPRESENTATION

35
SCALE=1:8 (1 cm=8 inch)

DESIGN-3
LAYOUT
SCALE=1:8 (1 cm=8 inch)

36
 DESIGN-3
PHOTOGRAPH

37
 Result
And
Discussion
RESULT AND DISCUSSION
38
 A questionnaire was prepared to analysis the consumers acceptability
towards the casual tops for women’s in summers. These questionnaires were
distributed to the respondents belonging to the age group 17 to 25. Through
this method the results and data which were given by the respondents were
collected and discussed, this helped us in understanding consumers need
even better.

PART 1

The results of the survey have been discussed in this chapter.

Through this section it was known that 80% of respondents were aware of
casual wear and only 65% of them are aware of designer casual wear, and
only 60% of respondents were interested in casual tops and the choice of
fabric differed where 30% preferred cotton,40% linen, and 30% blended.

Similarly the color was also proportional 20% neutral color, 30% pastel color,
35% bright color and 50% contrast color, the respondents also preferred
readymade tailored casual wear garments when compared to designer made
garments, the respondents also preferred stylish neck lines which were 55%
of them preferred round neck lines, 20% of v-neck lines and 25% off
shoulders, similarly 30% preferred mega sleeves, 35% half sleeves, 20%
gathered sleeves, 15% sleeveless. Lastly when came to fasteners, 45%
preferred buttons and 30% preferred hooks.

Part 2

The following results are extracted from the survey of the casual wear
through the questionnaire and represented by pie chart thus the
performance of the casual wear garments are marked and discussed.

CONSUMER ACCEPTABILITY OF CASUAL TOPS

WITH RESPECT TO DESIGN
Characteri Excelle Very Satisfac
Good Fair Total
stics nt Good tory
Design-1 44% 34% 20% 1% 1% 100%
Design-2 29% 34% 30% 4% 3% 100%
Design-3 34% 29% 30% 4% 3% 100%
39
 TOTAL 107% 97% 80% 9% 7% 300%

Pie Chart on Consumer Acceptability

With Respect To Design

CONCLUSION: The above pie chart is the pictorial presentation of the level
of acceptance of garments based on the design, where it was knotted that
the design 1 and 3 were widely accepted and appreciated by many
respondents.

CONSUMER ACCEPTABILITY OF CASUAL TOPS

WITH RESPECT TO FIT
Characteri Excelle Very Satisfac
Good Fair Total
stics nt Good tory
Design-1 24% 43% 30% 2% 1% 100%
Design-2 30% 34% 30% 4% 2% 100%
Design-3 32% 27% 40% 1% nil 100%
TOTAL 86% 104% 100% 7% 3% 300%

Pie Chart on Consumer Acceptability

With Respect To Fit
CONCLUSION: The test concludes that there is a significant difference in
the acceptable levels of casual tops with respect to fit. Among the displayed
garments, no 2 and 3 are were the most accepted while 1 were of least
acceptance.

CONSUMER ACCEPTABILITY OF CASUAL TOPS

WITH RESPECT TO FINISH

40
Characteris Excelle Very Satisfact
Good Fair Total
tics nt Good ory
Design-1 29% 35% 25% 8% 3% 100%

Design-2 24% 36% 29% 8% 3% 100%

Design-3 40% 15% 25% 14% 6% 100%

TOTAL 93% 86% 79% 30% 12% 300%

Pie Chart on Consumer Acceptability

With Respect To Finish

CONCLUSION: From the above pie chart it is clearly visible that the design
1 and 3 were widely accepted with respect to finish. The acceptability of
designs for almost all the casual tops displayed was very good.

CONSUMER ACCEPTABILITY OF CASUAL TOPS

WITH RESPECT TO AESTHETIC APPEAL
Characteris Excelle Very Satisfact
Good Fair Total
tics nt Good ory
Design-1 24% 53% 20% 2% 1% 100%

Design-2 24% 29% 35% 11% 1% 100%

Design-3 32% 26% 40% 1% 1% 100%

TOTAL 80% 108% 95 14% 3% 300%

Pie Chart on Consumer Acceptability

With Respect To Aesthetic Appeal
CONCLUSION: In the above pie chart it is seen that the response on
aesthetic appeal the design number 3 got the highest ranking scored
41
 compared to the other designs. The consumer acceptability level with
respect to aesthetic appeal for almost all of the garments displayed was
excellent.

CONSUMER ACCEPTABILITY OF CASUAL TOPS

WITH RESPECT TO COLOR COMBINATION
Characteris Excelle Very Satisfact
Good Fair Total
tics nt Good ory
Design-1 40% 15% 25% 14% 6% 100%
Design-2 29% 35% 25% 8% 3% 100%
Design-3 43% 24% 29% 3% 1% 100%
TOTAL 112% 74% 79 25% 10% 300%

Pie Chart on Consumer Acceptability

With Respect To Color Combination

CONCLUSION: The color plays a vital role in creating an impression hence

white and contrast colors were used. The graphical representation got
through the survey conducted clearly shows that the designs 1 and 3 were
accepted at a wide range.

CONSUMER ACCEPTABILITY OF CASUAL TOPS

WITH RESPECT TO OVERALL APPEARANCE
Characteris Excelle Very Satisfact
Good Fair Total
tics nt Good ory
Design-1 29% 25% 35% 7% 4% 100%
Design-2 28% 24% 27% 20% 1% 100%
Design-3 40% 15% 25% 14% 6% 100%

42
TOTAL 97% 64% 87% 41% 11% 300%

Pie Chart on Consumer Acceptability

With Respect To Overall Appearance

CONCLUSION: The above pie chart graphically represents the response

based on the overall appearance of the displayed garments; the design
number 3 got the highest ranking compared to the designs. The response
got to the overall appearance for almost all of the casual tops displayed was
very good.

Conclusion
43
 CONCLUSION
Design is organization when anything in designed; it is put together with
some intent or goal in mind. Everything that is not entirely accidental is to
some extent designed. Music is created; our tables and chairs are designed.
Some designs are utterly simple, some astoundingly complex. Some designs
succeed and become popular, some fail. Whenever anything is done with a
purpose, it is a designer effort. Design is concerned with how needs are
identified, related and in some cases stimulated. It affects the way in which
ones material, energy, skills and other resources are employed to satisfy
these needs. Design needs patience and planning.

Fashion means many things to many people. It may be looking good, traffic
stopper, stroke of genius, stunning, beautiful, sexy etc.

Fashion is an art, it is a science. To be brief it is an artistic science and a

science art of learning to combine color, form, pattern, texture for the final
effect.

The clothing industry has always been characterized by change and variety,
but never so much as today until recent times, changes in styles of dress
were very gradual and a popular fashion could have a very long life. At the
same time, the variety and the types of clothing produced were limited by
the life styles and conventions of the day.

Casual tops are the general name given to a girls dress worn to a market or
college, or a informal affair. Thereby innovative designs were created to
minimize the wastage of fabric as well as to improve the aesthetic value of
the garment and three different garments were created.

Using the sketch different types of simple casual tops was designed and the
fabrics and color were chosen accordingly to match the designs.

The block pattern method or the basic pattern without style features, with
standard measurements, proportion for the bodice size was taken and
manipulated according to the design being created for the casual wear.

44
Manual technique was used to place and mark the patterns on to the fabric
in such a way that very little of fabric was wasted.

Each party wear had to be cut manually according to the patterns with ease
allowance and style features incorporated to the garments.

The garment components were sewn together and were finished with a
suitable trim and fastener.

Hence 3 different casual tops were successfully stitched and finished. The
stitched garments were exhibited for consumer approval. The survey was
done by questionnaire method. The results were very inspiring as the
designs 1 and 3 were well accepted for their color and finish. The rest of the
garments also had very good rating and the casual tops were appreciated by
the respondent for the design, cut and the color combination.

There was a positive approach by the respondents towards the designed

casual wear as it had good fit and was found to be trendy.

45
 Bibliograp
hy

BIBLIOGRAPHY
1. Aldrich Winifred (3rd)’ “Metric pattern cutting”, Published by OM
Book service Black well Science.

2. Armstrong Helen Joseph, (2nd), “pattern making for fashion”.

3. Aldrich Winifred the (2002), “Metric Pattern Cutting For men’s

wear third edition”.

4. Aldrich Winifred (2000), “Pattern cutting for women’s tailored

garments close and contemporary.

5. Aldrich Winifred (1997), “Pattern cutting for women’s”.

46
6. Black Alexandra,” Desk till Dawn”, copyright@2004 Bear
Production, Text copyright @2004 Alexandra Black.

7. Bullies Douglas,” Fashion Asia”, (Didi budiardju, designer of

Indonesia).

8. Z.T. Browsicki (7th edition), “Waterons textiles designed cloths

elementary weaves and figured fabrics”, Published by Wood head
publication (LTD)

9. Cabman Bernard P (6th Edition), Textiles Filers to Fabric,

Published by M.C. Grow, Hill international Edition.

10. Colchester Chloe (4th edition),”the textile trends and tradition,

published by OM Book service black well Science.

11. Carr Harold et.al (2nd),”technology of clothing manufacture”,

Published by OM book service Black well Science

12. Cooklin Gerry, (1997),”Garment technology for fashion designer’s”,

Published by black well Science(LTD)

13. Cooklin Gerry (2000),”pattern GB reading for men’s cloths from, the
technology $sizing.

14. Flapper Anna Suis, www.amazon.com

15. Gillow John et.al (2005),”Traditional Indian textiles”.

16. Holman Gillian (1997)”pattern cutting made easy”.

17. Homlyn (1999), “20th century style”.

18. Lewis Virginia Stopple (1984) www.amazon.com

19. Lady Puff-Garden (1863-1935)

47
20. Latham Barbora (2004),”the technology of clothing manufacture,
second edition.

21. Murphy William S (2002),”Elements of fiber Science”, published by

Abishek Publication.

22. Joseph Helm et.al (3rd), “pattern making for fashion design”,
Published by Parlon education.

23. Schaeffer Claire (2002),” sewing for the apparel industry”.

24. Schiaparelli Eisa, www.gownsonly.com

48
 Appendix

QUESTIONNAIRE

BASIC DATA: DATE:

1. NAME:
2. AGE:
3. ADDRESS:
4. QUALIFICATION:
5. OCCUPATION:

SPECIFIC DATA

49
1. Are you aware of casual wear?
Yes/no

2. Are you aware of designer casual wear?

Yes/no

3. Do you like to wear designer casual wear?

Yes/no

4. Do you buy designer casual tops?

Yes/no

5. How often do you buy?

a. Very often
b. Rarely
c. Never

6. Which is the type of fabric preferred by you during summer?

a. Cotton
b. Linen
c. Chiffon
d. Blended
e. If any other please mention

7. What kind of garment do you prefer?

a. Single piece
b. Two piece
c. Any other please mention

8. Which of the following colors do you prefer in summers?

a. Neutral color
b. Pastel color
c. Contrast color
d. Bright colors

9. Which one do you prefer?

50
 a. Tailor made
b. Ready made
c. Designer made
10.Do you prefer collars?
Yes/no

11.Which necklines do you prefer?

a. Round shaped
b. V shaped
c. Halter
d. Straight cut
e. Boat shaped
f. Any other please mention

12.Which of the following sleeve type do you prefer?

a. Gathered sleeves
b. Plain set in sleeves
c. Bell sleeves
d. Any other please mention

13.What is the sleeve length that you prefer?

a. Sleeveless
b. Mega sleeves
c. Half sleeves
d. 3/4th sleeves
e. Full sleeve

14.To what length do you prefer your casual top along with jeans to end?
a. Waist
b. Hip
c. Mid thigh
d. Knee length
15.Where do you prefer to have the opening?
a. Centre front
b. Back
c. Side

16.What kind of fasteners do prefer?

51
 a. Zippers
b. Hooks
c. Buttons

17.Kindly access the displayed designer casual tops and tick accordingly.
The rating for evaluation as follows

Design -1

CHARATERI EXCELLE VERY SATISFACTIOR

GOOD FAIR
STICS NT GOOD Y
Design
Fit
Finish
Aesthetic
Appeal
Color
combination
Overall
appearance

Very Fairly
Expensiv
Price: expensiv Expensiv In expensive
e
e e

18.Kindly access the displayed designer casual tops and tick accordingly.
The rating for evaluation as follows
Design -2
CHARATERIS EXCELLE VERY SATISFACTI
GOOD FAIR
TICS NT GOOD ORY
Design
Fit
Finish
Aesthetic
Appeal
52
 Color
combination
Overall
appearance

Very Fairly
Price: Expensive In expensive
expensive Expensive

19.Kindly access the displayed designer casual tops and tick accordingly.
The rating for evaluation as follows
Design -3
CHARATERIS EXCELLE VERY SATISFACTI
GOOD FAIR
TICS NT GOOD ORY
Design
Fit
Finish
Aesthetic
Appeal
Color
combination
Overall
appearance

Very Fairly
Price: Expensive In expensive
expensive Expensive

53