He is a little cruiser that incorporates utmost simplicity and economy in build- ing, yet is a real 100 per cent boat, able to go safely anywhere within reason. regardless of the fact that the weather is usually bad on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays. Designed after the famous dory craft such as used by the fishermen of the Grand Banks, Dorothy. is the limit of simplicity, yet one of the ablest sea boats ever built. All difficulties which might otherwise mar the craft’s perfection have been eliminated giving her fair rocker to the keel, a moderate amount of V-bottom, a stern broad enough to prevent squatting, yet retaining graceful lines all around. ‘Though this boat may look wide on deck, notice that the great flare of the sides reduces the beam at the waterline to less than 6 feet, making for easy driving with moderate power. HOW TO BUILD “DOROTHY” in the sides, permitting it to be planked as easily as a “flattie.” Many minor details of Dorothy's arrange- ment can be modified to suit your individual taste, But do not make any radical changes in the plans. All moulds and false work can be dispensed with in building, As the alternate frames are web types, they determine the shape of the boat, and must be built very strong. Between these come what are known as intercostal frames, which are nothing more than 13%- inch square strips, fitted from deck to chine and from chine to keel, after the planking is all on, and securely screwed to all planks to prevent them from “working” at the seams. All parts are designed to use ordinary stock sizes of lumber in thickness as actually de- livered. For instance, bottom frame mem- bers are 1% inches thick, which is what you An Economical ‘DOROTHY At the same time, an ingenious form of con- struction makes the boat as easy to build as a flat-bottom skiff, for the “V" is worked out of one wide bottom member. The frames can be made in one-half the time required for true ‘V-bottom types. Dorothy is not the real V-bottom model, this being probably the most difficult of all types to build, but along the lines of the old “diamond bottom skiff” which eliminates all twist in the bottom planking; and nearly all actually get when you order 1%4-inch lumber. Planking will be a scant 13/16-inch, com- monly called 1-inch boards, And 'so on throughout the construction, The sides of cabin and the cockpit coaming are designed to cut from one 18-inch wide cypress or white pine board, and are set at an easy curve that will eliminate all trouble in bending. The front of the cabin may be raked, as shown in the accompanying draw- ings, or squared to the deck. It is all a matter “Dorothy” a four) 4 For normal sen crus suiting equi wer when, weather et | "Sails can be cued forThis craft is one that is certain to excite the admiration of any manwho appreciates a beautiful and sea- worthy cruiser that can be built for a very modest figure. 24F00T CRUISER of taste as to which construction you choose. The headroom is ample, to permit sitting up in comfort, which is all that should be ex- pected on a smal] boat. But it isa simple mat~ ter to let the four corner posts of the cabin run up as high as desired by screwing ad- ditional boards to them, and making a tongued and grooved joint, with a rabbet plane to the main boards. Cabin roofs beam are usually dovetailed into the sides, but this is a trying job, and weak on thin sides, therefore screw on a notched batten to take the weight of beams, and fastening each beam to the side by “blind bolting” with a 5/16-inch brass bolt, as shown in the detail plans. This construction can never pull open, and is very easy to make. While it is usual to plank the roof with 13/16-inch tongue and groove ceiling, it is best to put on, first, a layer, of “Prestwood” in wide sheets, and then lay on the regular ceiling, driving long galvanized nails through all. ‘The “Prestwood” braces the ceiling against all diagonal strain, is far neater looking inside and, at the same time, easier to paint. Of course a final canvas covering should go on top of all, after planking and “Prestwood” is installed, ‘The engine shown in plans is the 10 horse- power Falcon which will provide all the power needed for a steady 8 to 9 miles per hour speed. The fuel cost will be half that of the usual converted motor which is worth some thought. If you should prefer a four cylinder engine, Niagara, Universal and Red Wing serve as good power plants of about the same 95 cubic- inch displacement cost but little more re~ quiring only slightly more space. Any engine up to the Gray 4-30 (152 cubic inches) and like sizes of other makes can be installed with little difficulty. But remem- ber this is a cruiser, not a speed boat; de~ signed for miles-per-gallon, not miles per hour, You cannot economically force Dorothy over 10 miles with any power. With the engine shown, use a 16-inch di- ameter 14-inch pitch 3 blade propeller, if lightly loaded, or 12-inch pitch if ballasted down to full load line, Ballast in a power boat? Absolutely! It makes a million dollars worth of difference in comfortable motion in rough seas, and the ability to drive through waves. Remember. it takes weight behind the propeller to de- velop power, Tf you operate the craft in rough water, iS: team rg aw woot DECK nnEES foKR ¢ ‘All framing for “Dorothy” is shown in above plan details. Frame members are cut from oak or yellow pide. Deck knees cand chine wre ok. Scringers are either he at yellow pine, 76 put up to 1,000 pounds of pig lead, iron sash weights or even stone under the floor, well secured so it cannot shift. The weight will not reduce your fair-weather speed over 14- mile and provides the necessary ballast for choppy water. As to the sail plan. Dorothy is strictly a power design, and not intended for real sail- ing. Sails on this craft serve only as an auxil iary equipment for use when weather permits. The sail is the Navy’s standard auxiliary for their motor launches, and is the second oldest form in the world, being the transition from the square sail to the gaff rig. The secret of its success is in getting the halyard at- tached to the yard at precisely the right point, This can best be accomplished by referring to the sail plans, Now about the steering gear. The marine sportsman may not desire a tiller; In that event a regular stock quadrant, ropes and a wheel on the bulkhead can be used. The tiller gives instant, positive and re- sponsive control; costs next to nothing, ends forever all trouble with slack ropes, and danger of breakage; and provides the most comfortable steering position possible, The strap, easily made by any blacksmith of 4x1 %-inch iron, has a clamp bolt between rudder stock and tiller, which will hold it on securely, yet permits easy removal if you want to lock the tiller in the cabin when leav- ing the boat. ‘The cockpit arrangement is the best of many time tried arrangements. If the addi~ tional side seats are used, it would be better to put a 12x30-inch gas tank under each, instead of a long one under the stern deck, The smaller tanks are more accessable when thus installed. Of course, the seat back board, and tank chocks should all be assembled with brass screws for easy removal. . The engine cover box has a hinged top, with aunder-hung drip gutter formed from a piece of sheet metal bent in the shape of a “J.” The side and part of back are put together with cleats and hooks, as shown, so as to be instantly removable. In this manner the whole engine can readily be worked upon still allow- ing ample room for battery and tools, for which partitions can be installed to suit. ‘The end of the cabin is unusual, but is based on practical experience. The greatest of all drawbacks to cruising in very small boats is heat and poor ventilation of the cabin, espe~ cially when the galley stove is in operation. In addition to the main door, another is provided beside the galley. This gives ample