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Q1. Write brief notes on the following (the basic concept illustrated by suitable equations and figures) Ursell parameters Swell Wave breaking Phase velocity Group velocity Profile stretching
Q2. Compute free-surface profile (), pressure (p) variation across the depth and wave celerity (c), for the following wave parameters. (a) Period (T) = 8 sec; wave height (H) = 0.6 m and water depth (h) = 60 m (b) Period (T) = 6 sec; wave height (H) = 0.9 m and water depth (h) = 15 m (c) Period (T) = 15 sec; wave height (H) = 0.6 m and water depth (h) = 6 m (Hint: First check which wave theory is applicable from Figure 1 and then solve the corresponding equations) Q3. For a linear progressive gravity wave, the free surface profile and dispersion relations are given respectively as = cos and = tanh . Derive expressions for kinetic energy, potential energy per unit horizontal sea surface area. Also determine the velocity at which energy gets transported. Q4. Starting from the solution of Korteweg-de Vries (KDV) equation, show that the solitary wave and Airy wave may be viewed as the limiting cases of cnoidal wave. Determine corresponding Ursell parameter.