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# Subject code: CE60156 Subject name: Offshore Structures

## Assignment 2 Due date: February 13, 2014

Q1. Write brief notes on the following (the basic concept illustrated by suitable equations and figures) Ursell parameters Swell Wave breaking Phase velocity Group velocity Profile stretching

Q2. Compute free-surface profile (), pressure (p) variation across the depth and wave celerity (c), for the following wave parameters. (a) Period (T) = 8 sec; wave height (H) = 0.6 m and water depth (h) = 60 m (b) Period (T) = 6 sec; wave height (H) = 0.9 m and water depth (h) = 15 m (c) Period (T) = 15 sec; wave height (H) = 0.6 m and water depth (h) = 6 m (Hint: First check which wave theory is applicable from Figure 1 and then solve the corresponding equations) Q3. For a linear progressive gravity wave, the free surface profile and dispersion relations are given respectively as = cos and = tanh . Derive expressions for kinetic energy, potential energy per unit horizontal sea surface area. Also determine the velocity at which energy gets transported. Q4. Starting from the solution of Korteweg-de Vries (KDV) equation, show that the solitary wave and Airy wave may be viewed as the limiting cases of cnoidal wave. Determine corresponding Ursell parameter.