Audi S2 Heater Matrix

Main text body - Paul Goodwin Pictures Ian Simmonds

Kau da je greja matrica prvi deo koji su ugradili u auto onda sve ostalo. To je istina! Naalost, jedini put da se rei problem sa radijatorom je da se izvadi cela tabla. Najdramatiniji deo ovog posla je pokuavanje da se pristupi nekim kljunim zavrtnjima,

right at the back of the engine bay, hidden in a tangle of pipes and sharp brackets!

Zato duboko udahnite, sedite na vozaevo sedite i sve to vidite treba da bude uklonjeno. Najgori deo razmiljanje o tome kada se krene sa poslom, rastavljanje i nije tako teko. Firstly, if the car has Air-Con. Get this de-gassed first. Potreba alat:: Phillips screwdriver, 8m, 10mm, 13mm socket and wrench, allen key Za ovo e vam trebati par dana bez urbe, tako da treba raditi na nekom mestu koje omoguava da vam vrata od auta budu skroz otvorena na neki dui vremenski period. Ovo nije posao koji treba raditi na ulici.

Volan i satovi Postoji puno prirunika koji ubjanjavaju ovaj deo posla, tako da ga mi neemo deteljno opisivati. Useful info on Mikes site here: http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articles/outside_temp_display.htm. Najjednostavnije mesto da ponete je da skinete volan koristite klju 24mm sa dugom drkom.

Vodite rauna da su vam tokovi postavljeni pravo.

Sledee na redu su ruice iza volana I njihovo kuite. Ovde postoje dva vertikalna rafa sa krstastom glavom videete ispod rupe za pristup sa obe strane.Uklonite gornji deo kuita tako to e te ga paljivo povui prema sebi.

Donji deo kuita je spojen sa ruicama. Prvo paljivo odvojte multi-konektore. Dva vea, po jedan sa obe strane i jedan manji (bordkompjuter). Same ruice su spojene elnom za tap volana. Na elni postoji raf koji treba dovoljno odvrnuti kako bi se elna oslobodila od tapa. Ovo je jedna od komplikovanijih operacija i oduee vam dosta vremena. Kada dovoljno oslobodite elnu, paljivo svucite sve kompletno.

Sat sa istrumentima se oslobadja odvrtanjem dva rafa koja se nalaze iznad tapa volana. Paljivo povucite sat prema sebi. Videete dva konektora koji na sredini imaju obojene osigurae.Upotrebite mali ravni odvija kako bi pomerili osigurae unazad I onda izvucite konektore. Kada iskljuite sve konektore sat e biti oslobodjen.

Kaseta ispod upravljaa takodje treba biti uklonjena. Na njoj se nalaze 3 rafa na dugoj ravnoj strani i jedan desno dole, kod ruice za otvaranje haube.

Postije jo dva rafa na krovu police. Polica bi samo trebala da spadne dole i samo je povucite ka sebi.

Primetiete da du prednjeg dela leita police postoje jo 3 rafa sa crnim podlokama. Postoji jo jedana oblast, otprilike u oblasti gde se nalazi ruica za haubu i tu se nalazi jo jedan raf.

Ovi rafovi fiksiraju plastine vodjice koje obezbedjuju dranje glavnog oienja koje se prua du ivice leita police (savijen u obliku velikog znaka pitanja) koji pridrava i vodi ue, sainjeno od snopa ica, oko gornjeg prednjeg dela table sve do centralne oblasti. Oienje kree od donjeg desnog dela ivice police... Zapiite kako ovo stoji, jer treba da se podudara sa rafovima kada budete vraali. On takoe dri i mesingane klipse i ako njih ne vratite na pravo mesto, neete moi da uvrnete rafove koji dre policu ! Zapiite kako ovo sve stoji i onda uklonite rafove.

Centre Dash Consol.

Jo jednostavnih stvari, samo verujte u sebe. Ovde je plastina konzola koja dri prekidae, radio i kontrole grejanja. Prvo izvucite radio i otkaite ga. Tri centralna prekidaa na okretanje takodje treba izvui. Zatim odvijte dva zlatna rafa i poljivo izvucite masku. Ovde ete videti dva mala rafa koji osiguravaju pepeljaru (ili kontrolne satove).

Uklonite samo rafove kontrole grejanja ete lake izvaditi kad se ukloni cela konzola. Ovo smo uradili da bi se izbeglo lomljenje malih crnih draa. Zatim uklonite 4 crna rafa koja privruju jedinicu za kontrolu grejanja sa centralnom konzolom. Neobino, ova jedinica se nalazi iza centralne konzole i moemo je ostaviti tu za sada, jer ne ometa dalje rasklapanje. Postoje 4x8mm rafa koja povezuju centralnu konzolu sa kokpitom, po jedan u svakom uglu. Dva na vrhu su lako dostupna, druga dva su sakrivena u rupama na dnu.

Ja sam koristio elektrini odvija sa 8mm adapterom ic - jedan od najboljih alata koje sam kupio. Vrlo koristan za ovaj posao. Kada uklonite ova etiri rafa, pokuajte da povlaenje odvojite kompletnu centralnu konzolu od kokpita. Ona e I dalje ostati povezana za kokpit, ali bi trebalo da dobijete dovoljno slobodnog prostora da rukom pridjete iza I odvojite sve konektore od zadnje strane prekidaa. Svi konektori su kodirani bojom. Moda e te se malo namuiti dok ih otkaite, ali kad uspete, konzola bi trebala da bude oslobodjena, a na njoj e ostati svi prekidai, to e vam znatno olakati posao prilikom sklapanja.

Centre Handbrake Consol There a little blanking plate in the forward part of the handbrake grab recess that when prised off reveals another black 8mm hex headed bolt to be removed. This secures the centre to the rear/middle consol. Remove the rear ashtray and undo the large 13mm nyloc bolt and washer underneath. Different models have slightly different arrangements here, some have two bout either side. Might take a little persuasion but the centre and middle part of the consol should now be free to be slide upwards and apart from each other. They are held together by a couple of locating lugs which disengage with a little upwards movements of either one. The middle consol should be capable of being pushed back into the rear of the car a good few inches, without removing the handbrake cover, it usually slides through just enough to manoeuvre the centre consol free. Bit tricky and this will make more sense when youre looking at it! Most Centre consoles in my experience have been badly removed at sometime in their past, resulting in the tabs being broken that slide over two metal clips on either side of the bottom centre part of the dash, straddling the VDOs. Just be aware that these clips are there and that the tabs are plastic and very easy to break! Pull the centre consol towards you and upwards and you should be ok as follows! Unscrew the gearknob and start to gently guide the centre consol back and up to free it, the gaiter just slides over the gear stick. Remove that little bit of black trim that sits on top of the VDOs. Pull the consol back (into the car) a little way then feel behind the VDOs, following the wires back under the metal bracket thats on the bottom of the centre part of the dash. The connectors are hidden underneath but easily pulled out to access. Theres a white plug for the VDOs, muffled in foam usually a smaller brown plug also. This is the feed to the cigar lighter and illumination and youll see the wire running between the 2 sections of the consol. Its a bit fiddly but the plug to the lighter and bulb should come free easily enough and you can now continue to ease the centre consol back and up till its clear.

Skidanje table.
Dobar deo pripreme je zavren na redu je instrument tabla! Instrument tablu uglavnom pridravaju estougaoni zavrtnji veliine 4 x 8 mm, po 2 sa obe strane pored vrata. Sakriveni su iza dva plastina poklopca koje treba (nasilno) otvoriti. Dobro obratite panju na poloaj instrument table u odnosu na stub vetrobrana i vrata, radi lakeg ponovnog postavljanja. Uklonite pomenute zavrtnje. Na sredini, instrument tabla je privrena za metalni dra, ispod kojeg su bili nabijeni utikai za video. Uklonite i ovaj dra. Sa obe strane draa postoje dva zavrtnja koja ga privruju za pod automobila / prenosni tunel ti zavrtnji su ispod tepiha, ali postoji mali prorez za laki pristup. Postoje dva zavrtnja (mislim da su estougaoni prenika 8 mm) sa obe strane draa, koji ga privruju za donji sredinji deo instrument table. Kada se izvade zavrtnji, potrebno je malo manevrisanja da bi se izvadio dra, jer se tu nalaze plastini ventili koji snabdevaju zadnji deo putem prenosnog tunela. Moete samo odvrnuti dva donja zavrtnja i ostaviti dra povezan za instrument tablu, ali mislim da je jednostavnije kada je dra u potpunosti uklonjen. Pogledajte pravo u rupu gde je stajala centralna jedinica i videete zakrivljeni centralni ventilacioni kanal, koji izgleda kao izobliena crna tuba! Negde na polovini te rupe, sa obe strane, nalaze se 2 srebrne matice zavrtnja prenika 8 mm koje treba ukloniti.

Ti zavrtnji su privreni za kuite matrice. Zavrtanj sa vae desne strane je spojen sa ljubiasto-braon multiplug konektorom koji pripada sistemu ica ventilatora i ne morate ga pomerati. Iza ovog prikljuka nalazi se jo kanala koji dolaze od instrument table.

Ti kanali su privreni malim rafom koji treba ukloniti, poto ovaj deo kanala mora da se rastavi kako bi instrument tabla mogla da se skloni. Ne vidi se dobro, ali centralni ventilacioni kanal i glavni kanal za odmagljivanje vetrobrana su povezani sa instrument tablom, pa se stoga vade zajedno sa instrument tablom!

Tako! A sad tei deo! Uz lagano i paljivo povlaenje, instrument tablu moi ete da privuete sebi, a zatim i da je izvadite iz automobila!! Ako je povuete nekoliko centimetara unapred, instrument tablu e i dalje podupirati stub upravljaa i drai sa obe strane. To je dovoljno da pogledate iza table kako biste bili sigurni da je sve otkaeno. Proverite da li ste 3 multikonektora za stalke progurali kroz ovalnu rupu predvienu za stub upravljaa rupa je uzana, ali multikonektori moraju biti izvueni. Jo malo truda i instrument tabla moe da se izvadi. Nije na odmet ako imate nekog da vam pomogne, ali ja sam radio ovo sam ve par puta. Dodue, instrument tablu lake je izvaditi, nego vratiti je nazad!

OK kada pogledate nazad u auto, nemojte da paniite!! Verovatno ete pomisliti zaboga, ta sam to uradio!! U sred auta videete gomilu pageta, pogotovo ako imate ugraenu klimu: ali zapravo i nije toliko strano ako popijete koju tabletu za smirenje i uvidite za ta slue svi ti sistemi ica, kuda se prostiru, itd. Glavni deo se nalazi na crnoj, krutoj podlozi. Sve je zapravo prilino pouno!

UKLANJANJE VENTILACIONOG SISTEMA

Na vrhu kuita ventilatora videete dva konektora povezana sa sistemom otpornika za ventilator. Gornji konektor je glavno napajanje i treba ga iskljuiti. Pratite sistem ica na vrhu ventilatora i odvojite ga. Donji utika moete ostaviti, jer on napaja motor ventilatora.

Nakon toga, treba da izaete iz automobila da biste doli do 2 zavrtnja prenika 8 mm koji privruju ventilator. Da biste to izveli, prvo treba da uklonite brisa sa suvozaeve strane, zavrtanj prenika 13 mm ispod malog crnog poklopca. Zatim, uz pomo novia, okrenite 4 velika osiguravajua zaptivaa na plastinoj dekoraciji / prekrijte samo ivicu vetrobrana i leita motora. Takoe, povucite gumenu traku sa ivice u zadnjem delu leita motora. Kad to sklonite, ispod svega ete verovatno nai mnogo nakupljene prljavtine, kao i plastini poklopac i reetku koja stoji na spoljanjem delu ventilatora. Pre svega treba ukloniti dve matice zavrtnja prenika 10 mm, a gornji deo poklopca treba odvojiti. Ispod njega nalazi se plastini zaptiva koji treba paljivo odvojiti. Tako ostaju samo 2 vijka privrena maticama prenika 8 mm koji prolaze kroz pregradu i ulaze u gornji deo ventilatora. Ako imate klimu, videete i mali bosh motor koji slui za recalculating poklopca, koji moe da onemogui pristup. Nakon to se uklonili ove zavrtnje, moete izvaditi i ventilator, ali tek nakon to uklonite i 4 spojnice koje povezuju ventilator sa kuitem centralne matrice. Na mestu dodira ova dva elementa, lako ete uoiti i spojnice. Nezgodno je ukloniti ih i esto se deava da odfijuu, ali slobodno ih paljivo odvojite dva se nalaze na ivici okrenutoj ka vama, a druga dva su sakrivena iza. U ovoj fazi oslobodite ECU (elektronsku kontrolnu jedinicu) iz kaveza koji je povezan sa zadnjim delom ove jedinice. Kada ste to obavili, ostaje vam samo da uklonite kontrolni kabl budite paljivi i pratite uputstva data ispod! Vrlo je nezgodno izvaditi osiguravajui zaptiva (mislim da je braon boje) ali, ako nita drugo, ovaj se bolje vidi od ostalih koji se nalaze ispod samog kuita matrice, tako da je dobro poeti s njim!! Kad zavrite s tim, trebalo bi da moete izvaditi ceo ventilacioni sistem!

AUTOMOBILI SA KLIMOM
U leitu motora, otkaite veliki blok konektora koji se nalazi sasvim nisko ispod ABS jedinice. Osim toga, kruti sistem cevi privren je uz pregradu (protivpoarni zid) i uz prednju polugu. Pratite sistem cevi sve do prvog osiguravajueg zgloba i iskljuite ih (utika veliine 10 mm). Razdvajanje ovih delova stvara dodatni prostor. Nakon razdvajanja, prekrijte izloene krajeve kako biste spreili unos prljavtine u ceo sistem.

UKLANJANJE GREJAA KABINE

U ovoj fazi, uklonio sam strut brace (neka spojnica) i iskljuio elektrini konektor koji je najblii gornjem zavrtnju. Donji zavrtanj je toliko nedostupan da nisam mogao da ga uslikam, ali mogue je (jedva) okrenuti klju za osminu kruga. Ovo e potrajati... Jedinica grejaa kabina je privrena sa dva zavrtnja picastih vrhova koji se nalaze na zadnjem delu draa, prolaze kroz protivpoarni zid i zavrnuti su sa te strane. U zavisnosti od motora (80 ili S2), ove zavrtnje moe biti relativno lako nai i ukloniti! Takoe iz sistema cevi za napajanje matrice treba ukloniti i dva creva za dovod koja tre kroz pregradu. Creva su privrena sa stegama za crevo, i jednostavno se izvlae, ali budite oprezni, jer moda jo uvek ima vode unutra.

Nazad unutar auta, treba da uklonite kontrolne kablove ventilatora na mestu gde su povezani sa raznim delovima konzole matrice. Svi su oznaeni bojama, i kontroliu klapne ventilatora koje usmeravaju vru ili nezagrejan vazduh. Na kraju ice nalazi se mali kruni obru koji se povezuje sa malom drkom kontrolnog mehanizma za razliite klapne. Ovo se jednostvno odvaja uz malo sile mislim da sam koristio kljeta za podeavanje. Ovaj deo Bowden kabla se lako pomera, a spoljni omota je privren za kuite matrice uz pomo spojnica oznaenih odgovarajuom bojom. BUDITE VRLO OPREZNI sa ovim spojnicama!! Mogu vrlo lako da puknu ako zbrzate ovaj korak, i kao sa svakim slinim kablom, ako spoljni omota ne moe dobro da se privrsti prilikom ponovnog sklapanja, nee ni raditi kako treba! Svaka spojnica ima dva dela za povezivanje zakrivljeni deo za smetanje koji upada u mali prorez i nije odmah vidljiv, i vei deo za privrivanje koja je vidljiviji. Odvojite ovaj vei i zailjeni deo od mesta na kom se nalazi na kuitu, ali nastavite da ga pomerate unazad u tom pravcu kako biste bili sigurni da skriveni, zakrivljeni deo moe potpuno da se oslobodi iz proreza. Upravo ovaj deo uglavnom pukne ako ne obezbedite dovoljno prostora za pomeranje kako bi ovaj manji deo oslobodili i izvadili iz proreza! Ovaj korak je ba zamoran ali nemojte uriti dok ga obavljate!!

Poto ste uklonili ove kablove, greja kabine moe se povui od ispod pregrade, i izvui napolje usput izvucite dve cevi za napajanje na samom grejau kabine, kao i zavrtnje! Osnova ima footwell vents i vezana je za ventile koji se proteu due strane prenosnog tunela do zadnjeg dela automobila. Ventili se spajaju jedino u prorezu i mogu se lako rastaviti. Poto ste oslobodili celu jedinicu, primetiete vrh grejaa kabine koji se vadi tako to ete ga povui na gore i zatim van glavnog kuita. U zavisnosti od koliine vode koja je do sada iscurila, sada je dobra prilika da oistite delove tepiha koji se inae ne vide!!

Sve to sada treba da uradite je da sve ponovo sastavite!!

KLIMA
Prilikom ponovnog sklapanja, bila bi dobra ideja da obnovite spojnice na spojevima cevi. Kao opte upozorenje, predlaem da testirate lampice instrumenata prilikom ponovnog sklapanja, poto im rasklapanje esto ne prija.

This is a list of personal experiences and not a maintenance procedure.

Audi S2 Heater Matrix

Main text body - Paul Goodwin Pictures Ian Simmonds

They say that the heater matrix is the first part they put in the car the build the rest around it. Thats very true! Unfortunately the only way to fix a problem with the matrix as a result is to take the dash out not for the feint hearted but relatively straightforward. On an S2, the most demanding part is trying to get access to some key bolts, right at the back of the engine bay, hidden in a tangle of pipes and sharp brackets! So take a deep breath and, sitting in the drivers seat everything youre looking at has to be removed!! Thats the worst part, thinking about it once you get going its not so bad especially with a few pointers! Firstly, if the car has Air-Con. Get this de-gassed first. Tools youll need: Phillips screwdriver, 8m, 10mm, 13mm socket and wrench, allen key This will probably take a couple of days unrushed so you obviously need somewhere to work and to be able to have the doors fully open for long periods of time. This is not a job to do on the street if you can avoid it!!

Steering wheel and Clocks Theres a lot of guides explaining this part so Ill not go into too much detail here. Useful info on Mikes site here: http://www.s2audi.co.uk/tech_articles/outside_temp_display.htm. Simplest place to start is to take off the steering wheel usually a 24mm socket on a long bar should do it. Make sure the wheels are aligned nice & straight. I must admit tho, Ive never tried this on a car with an airbag!! Next comes the

indicator stalks and shroud. There are two vertically fitted cross head screws youll see the access holes on either side underneath. Once removed gently remove the top of the shroud its got

locating lugs on the sides and theres 2 rubber edged plugs that locate in a little slot like affair on the lower front on the clocks so be carefully to pull forwards slightly or you might brake them. The lower part of the shroud is attached to the stalks. I unplugged the multi-connectors at this point as they are in tight and need careful force to part them. Two larger ones on either side and a smaller cream one for the board computer. The stalks themselves are attached to the steering column by a small brass collar. Theres a slot under the shroud and depending on what you have it could be a cross head or allen key bolt to loosen the collar sufficiently for the stalk assembly to be pulled free and off the steering column. Hard to describe this but if you imaging youre looking head on through the steering column the bolt sits at about 8 oclock. As a result you need to angle the screwdriver or allen key through the slot underneath and can be a bit tricky to locate! I actually wasted more time on this part trying to work out if I had an allen key of a screw in there than I think any other part of the job!! Once loosened the stalks simply pull forward off the end of the steering column.

The clock binnacle is secured by two brass screws either side of the locator that seats the upper cover for the indicator stalks and above the steering column. You cant miss them! Gently tip the top of the clocks back and ease the base forwards, right hand side first. The multi-plugs on the back are a bit tricky and have a coloured clip in the middle. Use a flat blade screwdriver to leaver this clip upwards. The clips once proud of the plugs then acts like a handle to pull on and release the connector. The one on the right as you look at the clocks is blue Theres 3 more connectors on the left hand side of the clocks as you look at them. Its the same for the two larger coloured plugs (yellow and white) and a small black plug for the board computer which just gently pulls free. The clocks should then be able to be manoeuvred out. The tray beneath the steering wheel also needs to be removed all 8mm hex

headed bolts. Theres 3 along the front edge and one right down where the bonnet release is. Theres 2 more inside the roof of the shelf. The shelf will probably just drop down and can be pull towards you and withdrawn. Youll notice along the front lip where the shelf fits there are 3 more screws with black washers, roughly adjacent to the bolts youve just removed. Theres another down by the bonnet release area, roughly where the other bolt was also. These secure the main wiring harness to the lower edge of the dash its sits in a rigid plastic guide (shaped a little like a large question mark) that supports and guides the rope like bundle of wires around the lower front of the dash to the centre area. It starts at the lower right hand edge of the dash, bonnet grab area, its tucked snugly against the lower edge, and goes right round the lip where the shelf joins then ducks back behind the centre dash area. Take note of how this sits as it need to match up with the screws when back together. It also holds the brass clips that the shelf bolts secure to and if these arnt in the right position youll not get the shelf back on! Make a note of how it sits and remove the 4 locating screws. Centre Dash Consol. More straightforward stuff, just a bit fiddly. There is a centre plastic consol / rack that holds the switches, CD radio and heater controls. So firstly remove and unplug your cd / radio. The 3 centre heater vents also need to be removed, usually easy enough by prying carefully from underneath. Next remove the 3 heater control knobs either with pliers and some protective cardboard or they can be carefully prised out where the central grab part of the dial has a flat end. Two goldish hex-headed screws will be evident in the recess of the outer two dials. With these screws out the dial plate can be levered out. Youll see two similar looking hex screw heads that secure the

little bit of black plastic trim that sits on the top of the VDOs with 2 lugs that poke up from below though slots into the lower part of the dashboard. Remove the screws for now the trim itself will be easier to remove when the centre consol is loose. Its the failure to do this that breaks locating lugs on the consol at either side of the VDO;s and causes it to sag on either side! Next up remove the 4 black dome headed screws that attached the heater blower unit to the dash consol. Unusually this unit sits behind the consol itself and can be left for now as it doesnt really interfere with the consol removal. There are 4 x 8mm hex headed screws that secure the centre consol to the dash, one in each corner. The top 2 are easy to get at, the lower are hidden at the end of access holes. I used an 8mm socket with an adapter to fit an electric screwdriver once of the best little tools Ive ever bought! Very useful for this job! With these removed it should now be possible to pull the consol away slightly from the main dash. Its still attached by the bank of dash switches but you should be able to get enough clearance to get in behind and pull the connectors away from the back of the switches. These are all a colour coded plug to the switch. Might take a good tug but once they are all removed this should leave the consol free to be withdrawn and with all the switches still in place, which I reckon makes it easier when refitting.

Centre Handbrake Consol There a little blanking plate in the forward part of the handbrake grab recess that when prised off reveals another black 8mm hex headed bolt to be removed. This secures the centre to the rear/middle consol. Remove the rear ashtray and undo the large 13mm nyloc bolt and washer underneath. Different models have slightly different arrangements here, some have two bout either side. Might take a little persuasion but the centre and middle part of the consol should now be free to be slide upwards and apart from each other. They are held together by a couple of locating lugs which disengage with a little upwards movements of either one. The middle consol should be capable of being pushed back into the rear of the car a good few inches, without removing the handbrake cover, it usually slides through just enough to manoeuvre the centre consol free. Bit tricky and this will make more sense when youre looking at it! Most Centre consoles in my experience have been badly removed at sometime in their past, resulting in the tabs being broken that slide over two metal clips on either side of the bottom centre part of the dash, straddling the VDOs. Just be aware that these clips are there and that the tabs are plastic and very easy to break! Pull the centre consol towards you and upwards and you should be ok as follows! Unscrew the gearknob and start to gently guide the centre consol back and up to free it, the gaiter just slides over the gear stick. Remove that little bit of black trim that sits on top of the VDOs. Pull the consol back (into the car) a little way then feel behind the VDOs, following the wires back under the metal bracket thats on the bottom of the centre part of the dash. The connectors are hidden underneath but easily pulled out to access. Theres a white plug for the VDOs, muffled in foam usually a smaller brown plug also. This is the feed to the cigar lighter and illumination and youll see the wire running between the 2 sections of the consol. Its a bit fiddly but the plug to the lighter and bulb should come free easily enough and you can now continue to ease the centre consol back and up till its clear.

Removing the Dash Thats most of the prep work next up its the dash itself! The dash, amazingly is mainly held in place by 4 x 8mm hex bolts, 2 on either side by the door. They are hidden behind two plastic caps on either side than are prised off. Take note as best you can of how the dash sits against the windscreen pillar and door for realignment later. Remove these bolts. Centrally, the dash is secured by the metal bracket the VDO plugs were stuffed under. Remove this bracket next. Theres two bolts either side that secure it to the floorpan / transmission tunnel theyre behind the carpet but theres a little flap cut for access. Theres 2 bolts (8mm hex I think) on either side that secure the bracket to lower centre part of the dash itself. With the bolts out it takes a bit of manoeuvring to get this out over the plastic vents that feed the rear along the transmission tunnel. You could just undo the 2 lower bolts and leave the bracket attached to the dash but I think its easier with the bracket removed entirely. Look straight at the hole where the centre unit lived and youll see the curve of the centre vent ducting, like a misshapen black tuba! About halfway up on either side there are two 8mm silver nuts to be removed. The bolts are fixed to the matrix housing. The right hand one as you look at it has a purple/ brown multipulg connector clipped to it thats part of the blower wiring which can be left as is. Behind this plug more ducting joins where it comes down from the dash. This is secured by a small screw and needs to be removed as this part of the ducting needs to come apart when the dash is removed. Its difficult to see but the centre vent ducting and the main windscreen demisting ducting are attached to the dash and as such come out with it!

Right! Now for the heavy bit! With a bit of careful tugging the dash should be free to be with drawn towards you and then out of the car!! Pull it it a few inches forward, it should still rest on the steering column and the side supports enough to allow a quick check behind to make sure everything is loose. Make sure the 3 mulitconnectors for the stalks have been pushed through the oval hole for the steering column its a bit tight but they need to be out of the way. Bit more effort and out comes the dash!! Does help to have an assistant, but Ive done this a couple of times on my own now. Getting it out is easier than getting it back in though! Ok when you look back into the car dont panic!! Youll probably think -what on earth have I done!! Youll have a big plate of spaghetti sitting in the middle of the car, more so if youve got aircon, but its actually not so bad once you pop a couple of prozac and look at what the wiring does, where it runs etc. the main bulk is on that rigid black support. Very educational actually! Blower Unit removal At the top of the blower housing youll see two connectors plugged into the resistor pack for the blower unit. The top one is the main power feed and needs to unplugged. Follow the wiring along the top pf the blower unit and unclip it. The lower plug can be left as it is the power feed to the blower motor.

Next you need to go outside the car the get at the 2x 8mm bolts that secure the blower unit. For this youll need to remove the passenger side wiper, 13mm bolt under the little black cap. Then turn with a coin the 4 large secure washers on the plastic trim / shroud only the edge of the windscreen and engine bay. Pull back the rubber strip from the lip at the back of the engine bay also. With this removed youll probably find a lot of accumulated muck under there and the plastic cowl and grill that sits on the outside of the blower unit. There are 2 10mm nuts that need to be removed first and the top part of the cowl should prise off revealing a foam gasket underneath which should carefully prise off. This leaves two studs with 8mm attached nuts that locate through the bulkhead and into the top of the blower unit. If youve aircon theres the little bosh motor for the recalculating flap that might hamper access. With these bolts removed the blower unit is free to be removed once the 4 clips have been removed that hold the unit to the central matrix housing. Look down the join and youll see them easily. These are tricky and tend to ping off, but prise them free carefully theres two on the facing edge and two hidden behind. At this stage release the ECU from its cage attached to the rear of this unit. That just leaves the control cable to removed carefully as described below! The securing clip (brown I think) is very tricky but at least this one is more visible than the others underneath the matrix housing itself, so a good one to start with!! Once done it should now be possible to remove the whole blower unit assembly!

On air-con cars In the engine bay, release the large air-con connector block located low down below the ABS unit. Additionally, the rigid pipework is secured against the bulkhead (firewall) and against the front fore-arm. Follow the pipework to the first securing clamps and release (10mm socket). This will give additional movement as you pull the unions apart. Once apart, cover both exposed ends to prevent dirt entering the system.

Heater Matrix Removal The heater Matrix unit is secured by two bolts with pointed ends on a bracket at the rear that go through the fire wall and are bolted from that side. Depending on the engine these bolts can be relatively easy (as in my 80) or a PITA (as in the S2) to get at and remove! You will also need to remove the two feed hoses from the matrix feed pipes sticking through the bulkhead. Secured with hose clips they simply pull off but careful with the water still in there!

At this stage I removed the strut brace and released the electrical connector closest to the top bolt. The bottom bolt is so buried I couldnt get a photo of it, but it is (just) possible to get an 8th of a turn on a spanner. Itll take ages

Back inside the car you will need to remove the control cables from the blower unit where they attach to various parts of the matrix consol. They are all colour coded and control the vent flaps to direct the hot or unheated air. The end of the wire has a small circular hoop that clips over the small stalk of the control mechanism for the various flaps. This will just prise off with a bit of persuasion think I used some long nose pliars. This part of the Bowden cable moves freely whilst the outer sheath is secured to the matrix housing by colour coded clips. BE VERY CAREFUL with these clips!! They are so easy to snap if you rush this part and as with any such cable, if the outside sheath cant be properly secured again on refitting it wont work properly! Each clip has two attaching parts a curved locating clip that slits in a small slot and cant immediately be seen and the larger fastening clip, which is the more visible. Prise off this larger and pointed clip from where it locates on the housing but continue to move it backwards in that direction to be sure to allow the hidden, curved clip at the base to be fully freed from its slot. Its usually this part that snaps off if you dont provide enough movement for this smaller part of the fastening to become free and clear of the little slot! Its a right PITA - but dont rush this part!!

With these cables removed the matrix housing can be pulled from under the bulkhead and out drawing the two feedpipes on the heater matrix itself and bolts as you go! The base has the footwell vents and also connects to the vents the run along the side of the transmission tunnel to the rear of the car. The vents just slot together and can be easily pulled apart. With the whole unit free you can see the top of the heater matrix itself which is removed by drawing upwards out of the main housing. Depending on how much water leakage youve had nows a good opportunity to clear the bits of carpet you never get to see!!

Now all youve got to do it put it all together again!!

Air-Con On the re-construction, it might be an idea to renew the seals disturbed on the Air-con pipe union. And as a general note, test the instrument bulbs as you go, theyll not have enjoyed the excursion.

This is a list of personal experiences and not a maintenance procedure.