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ANNEX

MIGRATING
October
2009
Copenhagen

GARDENS
Annex: 4

Gratis

Harvesting the past Tips Learning from


for a sustainable from a
Elmas Akyol
future Bostancı
p.10 p.5 p.4
Chasing We struggled
Calves
in
SOIL p.7
and dug
İstanbul The flight from p.12
p.6 the lost countryside THE Guess
p.8 GREENERY
THAT Who’s
The garden at GREW OUT Coming
OF THE
Blågårdsgade GARBAGE to
DUMP Dinner?
p.15 p.8 p.3
A
Black
Sea
H BOSTANCI
IN
Techniques O MØSTINGS
HUS
p.9
R p.16
S
E p.13
2 ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS

Migrating
Gardens Green Migration
The collaboration between One of the strongest global trends in embedded in the image below.
Nis Rømer and Oda Projesi migration, has been the move from the Cultivating the land is no longer
will lead a way to look countryside to urban areas. 2007 was possible or feasible, and farming tools
at the usage of city space the year when, for the first time, half of instead have become the means to
from different perspectives, the worlds’ population was estimated escape or salvage in the process of
and point out micro-scale to live in cities. One of the reasons displacement.
interventions, to revisit for this is that farming can no longer
and revise the idea of land subsidize existence. In the coming EU countries export cheap and
ownership. years, the breakdown of ecosystem- subsidized farming goods and is at the
dependent livelihoods is likely to same time responsible for a major part
This newspaper is to become the premier driver of long-term of climate change. In return we see
share the joint knowledge migration, and continue for the next migrants escaping their dysfunctional
coming out of the Migrating two to three decades. living conditions and trying to enter
Gardens project, through Europe. The fact that the negative
the articles around the Environmental migrants are persons effects of climate change are mainly
concept of the Bostan in or groups who, for reasons of induced by the developed world,
İstanbul, the situation sudden or progressive changes in the but suffered by those that can least
in Denmark from the environment, leave their homes, either afford it, is evident. The claim for
perspective of geography, temporarily or permanently, and move environmental justice must be our
history and NGOs, as well either within their own country or response. Ecological sustainability and
as the interviews with abroad.* social justice should go hand in hand,
gardeners from İstanbul and we must assume the responsibility
and Copenhagen, who have The close link between agriculture for this to happen.
“their hands in the soil”. and migration and its contemporary
implications, are in many ways Nis Rømer
Bostan network. Drawing by Özge Açıkkol Oda Projesi & Nis Rømer
* Definition by the International Organization
For Migration (IOM), Geneva.

Yedikule Lettuce UN information on refugees >>

The famous Yedikule lettuce is around The United Nations University predicts that 50 million people globally will be displaced by
environmental crises by the year 2010. According to OSCD there could be as many as 200 million
7 or 8 kilos. There’s no pesticides, no displaced worldwide by 2050. Meanwhile, for the first time ever, Red Cross research shows more

factory, it just grows with the strength


people are now displaced by environmental disasters than by war.
www.towardsrecognition.org/who-are-environmental-migrants
of the soil. Five people together can’t
finish one lettuce. It’s mouth watering.
That’s how delicious it is!

Annex no:4 It is a part of the project “Art Events in


Migrating Gardens  and Sustainability” relating to Møstings Hus
the UN conference COP 15 in
Edited by Nis Rømer and Copenhagen 2009. Friday the 2nd of October
Oda Projesi Opening of the Migrating
Oda Projesi would like to Gardens exhibition
Danish to English translations remember “the gatherers:
by Nis Rømer and Turkish greening our urban sphere” Saturday the 10th of October
to English translations and exhibition in Yerba Buena Art at 13.00
proofreading by Zeynep Center in SF, USA, (October 2008) Field work; Biking through the
Zilelioğlu that inspired to work on bostans.  informal green structures of
Copenhagen with Oda Projesi,
Transcriptions by Ayşegül Oğuz, Special Thanks to Nis Rømer.
Oda Projesi, Nis Rømer Adil Boğazkaya Starting point; Christianshavns
Ahmet Öztürk Torv
Designed by Burak Şuşut Astrid La Cour
Printed by Trykcentralen Elmas Akyol  Thursday the 15th of October
Faik Aydoğan at 17.00
1500 copies printed as a part of Havva Cebir Please don’t step on the green Immigrants crossing the sea floating on inflated tractor tubes. Photo: Cihan News Agency
Migrating Gardens exhibition Haveklubben Trekanten A talk by the artist group Oda
02.10 - 01.11 2009 Møstings Hus, Haven, Blågårdsgade Projesi about their work and
Frederiksberg, Denmark Haydar Balcı  opening of Migrating Gardens II
Mehmet Şengül  THE HOUSE THAT MOVED
The exhibition is supported by Musa Dağdeviren Monday the 19th of October
The Danish Arts Council Mustafa Cebir at 17.00 Møstings Hus is in itself architect Finn Karlsson was
Committee for International Nuriye Karadeniz Climate change make people a remarkable story of asked to make a plan for
Visual Art Paul J. Kaldjian  move migration in relation to the dismantling of the
Frederiksberg Kommune Pia Lisewsky A talk about green migration and the city. It was built in house. Everything was
Rene v. Veenhuizen  urban gardens 1801 as a country house. carefully photographed,
Rukiye Balcı At the time there were important parts were
Serap Öztürk Previous Annex issues only scattered buildings carefully taken down,
Tina Hou Christensen in what is now the very numbered and stored,
TUT, İstanbul Annex 1 published for the 50th center of Frederiksberg. later to be rebuilt. The
Yılmaz Korkmaz Venice Biennale “The Structure The original site is just new location, where the
of Survival” exhibition, 2003. across from today’s city hall swallowed up the country house stands today, was
and all the gardeners making on the corner of Smallegade house. In 1959, the demand agreed upon in 1962. In 1977
the space, a place to live in. Annex 2 published for the and Falkoner Alle. When for the passage of more the house was completed
8th İstanbul Biennale “Poetic the house was built, the traffic and the growth of the again and rebuilt after the
The residency of Oda Projesi in Justice”, 2003. parish of Frederiksberg had city in general had made drawings.
Copenhagen is sponsored by the 1172 inhabitants, in 1900 it necessary to take action.
DIVA artist-in-residence program Annex 3 published for the this number was around As the house was protected Today Møstings Hus’ ground
under the Danish Arts Council “Proje4L” project in Tensta 60.000. In this time span, under class A, demolition floor is converted into an
Committee for Visual Arts. Konsthall, Stockholm, 2004. the city grew and effectively was not a possibility. The exhibition space.
ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS 3

Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner?


The Ethics of In-Between Relationships Dr. Mahmud A. Al-Alim, an
Mika Hannula Egyptian economist and thinker,
considers urban agriculture as
It is not a secret, but when you really think about it, it In this case, it is the plural relationships of who owns
does come as a surprise. The surprise that everything land, who uses it and the ambiguous areas in-between. “ruralisation of the city” and
and anything we do is about relationships. It is not so To articulate it through sociology, it is the relationship
much what these relationships are or what they are not, between a structure and its inhabitants. Here, the former judges it as a negative trend.
but rather how they are. Here, the crucial point is that refers to the political, social, historical and economical
relationships are not given, or already existing structures, ways a certain site is structured and organized while the He comprehends semi-rural or
but rather a constant process of push and pull, give and latter refers to the ways in which the inhabitants access
take, trial and error. the site and use it in time. semi-urban districts in Cairo as
Our way of existing-in-the-world is relational. It is not It is a relationship that, on the one hand, holds the sources of pollution and even of
relative but relational to our location, our immediate power to shape, and on the other, the powerlessness of
surroundings and the social structures that we are the people trying to survive within the given structure. crime.
attached to or shaped by. It is the relationships we create, But hold on. Is it really that simple? Is it simply that the
nurture, or destroy with our parents and children as existing structures dominate and the ones who do not
well as the relationships with our environment, be it the have access to it are incessantly dominated? Jörg Gertel and Said Samir. "Cairo: Urban Agriculture And Visions
common technical devices we use everyday or the macro For A "Modern" City", In: Growing Cities, Growing Food: Urban
issues of climate change. All in all, it is about how we When we closely analyze the character and development Agriculture On The Policy Agenda, Bakker, N. Et Al., 2001, P. 225.
relate to our daily surroundings and situations. of every relationship, this black and white model quickly
loses its credibility. Evidently, we must consider a number
Since everything is about relationships, it is not surprising of inter-twining relationships within the very site and
that we tend to take these constructions and their situation. Looking at the current İstanbul cases, these are
current states as given. We hardly pay attention to them
because they are so overwhelmingly present. However,
our attention is awakened when we are confronted with
relationships between the city as the owner of a property
and the recently migrated populations trying to grow
vegetables, both for their own use and for selling, on a
DECEIVING
examples that are either slightly or extremely out of the
ordinary. We wake up when we see the “other”; the
“other” that does not fit, the “other” that challenges our
piece of land that is not yet planned or constructed on.
It is the relationship between the city planning officers
and the newcomers, a relationship between those who
THE CONSUMER
presuppositions of the particular relationship that is in
question.
have all the power of decision-making and those who
have ridiculously little of it. ABOUT ORGANIC
This wake up call can be effectively achieved through
socially oriented and engaged contemporary art. This
notion effectively describes the general practice of Oda
Yet, no matter how imbalanced it is, it nevertheless is
a relationship, and a productive one at that. It is the
process by which a non-site is made into a site through
PRODUCE
Projesi, specifically their project with Nis Rømer. It is a semi-illegal actions by the ad hoc farming community.
tight match that does not solve anything, but serves as The temporary users have a short-term lease to use the
a new beginning. It is a shout to the top, a call to start land but can be evicted at any time. Thus, what kind of a
thinking differently about the site and engaging with it in relationship is it exactly?
alternative ways.
Let us return to the notion of the site as a space “in-
The history of the specific site in question is well between”. The site does not function outside the capitalist
articulated in the accompanying texts in this publication. logic of market driven economy, but next to it. This is
It shows us the basic approach of Oda Projesi. The project because it is not entirely planned nor fully controlled.
takes the site as its starting point then goes deeper into It is in a grey area. But is it really functioning around
the subject. The starting point is the centuries old, but it since it is not surviving on the romantic notion of a
still the relevant phenomenon of bostan in Turkey. This Robin Hood mentality? The inhabitants are making use
phenomenon is once again, about relationships. of the land and they want to get something out of it,
>>p.4

Photo: Oda Projesi, Topkapı, İstanbul, 2009

A
s we continue deep into the walls of
Yedikule we start talking to one of the
garden owners Ahmet Öztürk, “I don’t sell
to other vendors anymore, I can’t grow that
much. Before I used to be able to because this here
used to be all a garden” he says.

So what lies behind the current popularity of


organic products? We wonder about this and ask the
gardening expert Ahmet Bey:

Ahmet Bey, who turned his old garden into a


greenhouse, complains about other vendors and
markets buying his produce and putting it in their
displays as organic. Some vendors and market
owners put Ahmet Bey’s produce in the front display
but actually sell the stuff they bought elsewhere as
if they were the same produce. He adds: “But now
my produce is only enough for the people that
pass by here. Just two years ago we used to give
to wholesales. We even used to sell at the farmer’s
market. When I started planting, I lost part of my
garden. I now have 1800 meters to grow. Before I
used to have 4850 meters.” istanbul
Photo: Oda Projesi, Yedikule, İstanbul, 2009
4 ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS

<< p.3 Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner? / The Ethics of In-Between Relationships / Mika Hannula

AIRPORT IN THE
MIDDLE OF A
BOSTAN

Photo: Oda Projesi, Topkapı, İstanbul, 2009

sometimes in desperate attempts, other times not. But it integrated. It is allowed in and accepted as it is. It is the
is a relationship where desires, needs, demands and fears process of cherishing the grey zone – that zone which
clash and collide. cannot be controlled or determined for either side of the
relationship. It is then a relationship where the stronger
I do not think the relationship could properly be called one realizes how much it, in fact, benefits from the
“parasitic”. Nor does it have the character of a virus, weaker one that is using all its wit and resourcefulness Billboard for the construction of the new airstrips

T
be it a benign or a malignant one. One of the problems for means of survival.
with the metaphors borrowed from the field of medicine he bostans in the biggest airport of İstanbul
is that they are rather closed up and deterministic. But A realization that turns into an admiration for those are under danger of being demolished.
the main problem is perspective. A parasite or a virus small gestures that make our everyday worth while Because of the increasing number of
negotiates the relationship from the weaker side towards (see Hannula 2006). A realization that is built upon a flights, there is not enough space for the
the stronger one. A seemingly fine position, but in reality self-understanding and self-esteem of the structure that airstrips. Since the constructions started, the bostans
it often leaves the opposing side off the hook. it is strong enough to allow internal critique and some have been getting smaller and none of the gardeners
significant stirs from within while enjoying the idea of working in the area know about their future. 20
But what happens if we turn this perspective around? treating the other as a guest; a guest that comes to dinner families who moved to İstanbul from Kastamonu
What if we did like Diana Ross so wonderfully asked us without an announcement but is treated nonetheless with after the 80s are making their living out there and
to do in 1980? What if we let ourselves go upside down, great respect. they are all each other's relatives. Before the 80s, it
all round, inside out? was the Thessalonians who were gardening in the
It is a sign of the times (respect for the other that aera.
When we do that, what we have is a dramatically different cherishes the difference and does not strive towards
site and situation. We are no longer asking how does sameness) that is terribly horribly missing. A sentiment The reasons invented by the municipalities to
the other (the outsider, the weaker one, the newcomer) that the philosopher Hannah Arendt so well articulated demolish the bostans are increasing while the need
fit into the main frame of the structure. Instead, we are in a specific circumstance. It was something she said in for sustainable horticulture is urgent in the cities.
asking how does the structure (the organization and its a speech when being awarded with the Emerson-Thoreau One other reason that the old wall bostans are
representatives that have the decision power) act and react medal from the American Academy of Arts and Sciences disappearing is that once the walls are renovated, the
towards to other, the new and the different. in 1969. A sentence she (quoted in Markell, 2003) uttered municipality will try to demolish the planted fields
at the beginning of the talk, and which is certainly to replace them with recreation parks in order to
The situation then evolves into the ethics of being in a worthy to cite here in full: “And if it is good to be create more touristic areas. istanbul
relationship. An ethics that takes seriously the lop-sided recognized, it is better to be welcomed, precisely because
balance of the relationship between those who have this is something we can neither earn nor deserve.”
power and those who do not. This is a theory of ethics
that Ian Angus (2000) labelled as the maxim of After Angus, Ian, (Dis)figurations, Discourse/Critique/Ethics, Verso 2000.
You, in which he claims that it is the responsibility of the Hannula, Mika, The Politics of Small Gestures, Chances and Challenges
stronger side to let the weaker in and that it is the stronger for Contemporary Art, art-ist İstanbul 2006.
side that must show tolerance, flexibility and openness. Markell, Patchen, Bound by Recognition, Princeton University Press 2003.
Ross, Diana, diana, Motown 1980.
In this version of an ethical relationship, the other (no
matter what form it comes in) is not assimilated or Mika Hannula is prof. in artistic research, University of Gothenburg.

Oda Projesi: Could you talk to repair cars here and no took the wall down and my these about five or six years
Learning from Elmas Akyol a little about yourself? car could pass from here vegetables were left lying ago. Fruit grows fast. There
to the other side because out in the middle. A woman was only this old tree here
Kreuzberg, Berlin / 16 July 2009 Esma Akyol: My next door of the Berlin wall. There came from the other side when we built this place.
neighbor, the old man, is was no exit. People would and said “oh no!”… she They don’t say anything
from Yozgat, and I’m from repair their cars and dump hugged me, we have about the tree either. This
Trabzon. We used to live all the garbage on this side, pictures… “your vegetables place belongs neither to
in the same building right it used to be like a kind of are out in the middle now, this side, nor to that. If it
there. One day he said to a park here. That side was they will steal them, break belonged to one side they
me “Let’s turn this place into Ost and here was West, them”. When the wall was wouldn’t let us keep it, they
a garden”. I said why not? that’s how they called it. there they weren’t out in would take it. It’s in the
He dug that side I dug this With the old man we dug the open, they were on this middle of the border. This
one and we made a garden the ground here, cleaned side of the wall. But when tree, they don’t even take
here. We’ve been here longer up all the trash and made the wall came down all my care of it. The municipality
than twenty years. He is still it into a nice place, no one vegetables were left there always cuts and takes care
on that side and this is our ever said anything to us so like that, so we put soil of the other trees, but this
border. That side is his, this we continue to do the same. there and built it. one, nobody cares about…
is mine and that over there 20 years ago there was no
is our little shed. The Ost garden here. It was a dump, OP: So what was the first You see how it’s dried up?
Elmas Akyol’s garden with her neighbor wall (The East Wall = The it’s right at the bottom of thing you grew here? The other day a part of it
used to lay in the no man’s land of Berlin Wall) used to be by the wall, what else could it broke in the wind, it’s going
the wire there, we couldn’t be? It couldn’t be anything EA: Whatever we used to to break and fall on our
the Berlin wall. It is now one of the pass from that side to this. else. Before the wall came grow back at home, corn, heads. I’ve been in Germany
frequented spots. It is a lushous green down we fixed this place up sunflower, red cabbage… for 35 years and this tree
island next to St. Thomas Church. This here used to be a dirty many times. I used to grow you can take pictures of the has been the same the
place, a dump, they used vegetables here, then they trees and fruits. I planted whole time.
ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS 5

When I came here I was 23 made tea, we had brought EA: I came straight here OP: Do you use fertilizers or
years old. I came in 1973. I some things from home, from my village, we never pesticides? Tips from a Bostancı
got married at age 20 and we made the table, people even got to know our town.
three years later I came stopped by, it’s fun here, I grew up in the village, EA: We bought two truck-
here. I came on the sixth people pass by and end and then came here. We loads of manure, we buy Time of plantation
month of 1973. My husband up sitting at the table. learned about the garden from the villages, from the When my father planted something, he would
came one year earlier to We’ve had fruit here, fifty from our parents. Before cows, there are farms here. calculate it from a past date. Let’s say today is
start working. Then a year thousand people have we came to Germany this We filled up the truck and the 27th, right? May 27. He wouldn’t calculate
later he came back to eaten from this garden. is what we used to do back came and dumped the that date, he’d calculate May 5 or 6. He used to
get us. I have a daughter People see this place in the village. We were manure here. We never use go backwards. We couldn’t figure it out then,
and now my daughter’s from outside and want gardeners. pesticides, you know that but of course now we know why. He’d calculate on the past
date. [Calculation according to the Hegira calendar.]

Way of planting
Say we’re going to plant tomatoes. My father
would say “leave it, you can’t do it”. I’d take it
out and plant it again. I remember taking out
tomatoes three times. I’d plant it, and it would
be facing upwards and he’d say “no it’s not
right again… you have to plant it diagonally”. One branch has
to go this way, the other that way “it will wrap itself around”
he’d say… “they’ll support each other”. I’d ask him “dad, why
are you planting this way?” He’d say “son, this will support
that and that will support this”… He knew subtleties like this.

How do you plant bitter melon?


“Did you plant bitter melon, son?” my
deceased father would ask. “Yes I did father”
daughter is here too. I something, we pick the OP: Is there a vegetable thing they call bio, that you I’d say. “When did you plant it?”, “yesterday
have 7 grandkids. All of the fruits and give them. For that you grow here that you can buy at kauf (market), father.” “Son! how much time is left to
children were born here, the people that come to can’t find anywhere else? they sell it there, very hıdırellez (a religious festival)?” You have to plant it on the
they work here. My first sit down we pick the fruit expensive. eve of Hıdırellez. I’d say “10 days left to Hıdırellez,” “then
child came here when she with our hands and give EA: In Germany there is no take it out, that won’t work” he’d say.
was one year old. them. We don’t sell, we just red cabbage. There are a OP: If you wanted to make
grow for our own, it’s only lot of corn fields, but they a garden again, in Berlin How to plant calabash?
OP: How did you meet the enough for us, we’re a big don’t know cabbage, they or somewhere else, where You have to grow the seed in a special place
old man? family, what is to sell here ask what is this? I grow the would you want to have it? first and then plant it. It has to be very good
anyway? Five ten cobs of seeds here. It’ll continue soil, nicely picked and sorted in a pot, you
EA: We used to live in the corn, I’m going to cut them until the beginning of the EA: I would want it to be then take it out and plant it. You have to
same building, he was the when they’re done, the kids summer, then in the summer somewhere close to here prepare a place for it with special attention. It has to be very
haushalt (superintendent) can boil and eat them. I it’ll grow, this is the seed. again, I wouldn’t want to good soil, a little mixed. You put your pesticide in. In order
of the building. He was give the red cabbage to the Some of them we grow just go far from here. There are for bugs not to harm it you plant it with pesticides. There are
responsible for the cleaning, neighbors… we’re crowded to give seeds. You plant gardens here for rent for calabashes that grow 2 meters long.
here they call that haushalt. too. We even have a baby red cabbage on the twelfth 100 liras, but nothing close
We were neighbors. Then chair here, if kids come and month. I can give you too. to here. Look here, taste the Watercress, dill, parsley, lettuce...
we started to dig here get tired running around, We ordered the seeds from fruits from my garden! A very sensitive product. It grows in 21 days.
together. we put them in the chair. Turkey. Every year we take The soil where it’s planted has to be sorted
a vacation to go pick up the OP: Do you like to cook? nicely with a fork, spread around, crushed,
OP: What do you grow here OP: How did you come to seeds and bring here. Put watered, then fed animal fertilizer. It needs to
now? think about doing such these in your bag. EA: I love to fill the house be tied after 21 days. If you wait for 25 or 26
a thing here? In other with food. Red cabbage days, the watercress will come out bad, it’s very sensitive.
EA: This is pumpkin, they words, was it a little out of OP: How do you get water sarma, red cabbage dish, Dill is the same. Parsley grows in 60 days. Lettuce also grows
call it pumpkin, you know necessity? here? its soup, corn bread, bean in 60 days. Of course you have to water it on time.
those round pumpkins… pickle, I make everything
this is sunflower, these are EA: We grew up with this, EA: I get the water from that you can think of. I love red Digging a Well
beans, that over there is we used to make a living building across the street. cabbage and bean pickle We built a well in 86. We pumped water
corn, red cabbage, turnip, out of this back in Turkey. It is the church’s residence. the most. When I make it from twenty-two meters deep, we dug all the
which they call chard, then We have a lot of land there. We get it with this long the children love it too. way down with our hands, not even with a
there are tomatoes, what I have 6 acres of land in cord. We draw it from their machine. We kept digging, every meter we dug
else… onions…. Bursa, a two story house bathroom, and then we pay OP: Thank you. we put a cast, waited one-day for it to dry, and
on top of it, that land used the amount on the water then dug the next meter. We dug like that for 22 meters and
OP: So what do you call it to be an olive grove but we meter. found the water. We put a machine to pump the water.
here? A bostan or a garden? left all that to the people
there to come here. I planted this too, I ate Running Water
EA: We call it garden. Back the nectarine and put the If your garden is flat, with all your strength you
at home we call it field, The garden didn’t come seed in a pot. It turned into release the water, let the water spill into the
a big field. But when you out of a necessity. Who a sprout, so I brought it channel, the water spreads by itself and enters
build a little space like this would need this? It’s just here and planted it. This is between the produce, at times there are places
we call it garden. You can for pleasure, we come here, apricot, these are sprouts, it doesn’t reach. You can’t run a mill with
grow everything you need sit down, the kids pick I’m going to plant them carried water. You make a pool, when the pool fills you open
in that garden, your spring fruit from the trees, we’re next year in the beginning the valve and go around with the water spilling, but the pool
onions, everything… giving them an interest. of summer. These are will keep on filling.
The kids that were born apples, grapes… You know
OP: So do you work at the here wouldn’t know about what they call these? Çağla Producing Seeds
moment? Or do you just picking from the tree. It’s (unripe almond)… Its seed One kilo of lettuce is enough for me for a whole
take care of the garden? surprising for them to see just hardened. There’s also season. What do I do? I get 20 lettuces from
it too. They come here and a sour cherry tree there, it that. But only one root, a seedling. I plant in
EA: I work, I work four see, otherwise my kids gives a small fruit but gives twenty places, and then leave it to grow by itself.
hours a day, then I don’t know corn or cabbage plentiful. The one up there It becomes a seed. Keeps growing and growing
come and take care of or pumpkin. I plant here is cherry. Cabbage grows until it gets huge. Then we dry it, we lay it on a cloth, and take
the garden. In fact, last and say “look that’s a until the beginning of the out the seeds. We use the seeds for the following year.
weekend we came here potato”, when they see it summer, then we pick it and
to have breakfast. I told they learn it. new ones will grow. This Bostancı (tr): vegetable gardener in the bostan.
my husband, come on, is pepper, that’s an olive
let’s go have breakfast in OP: Did you come tree, that’s a flower, this a
the garden. We came, we straight here from your tomato… You took a photo by Ahmet Öztürk, 46 years old, Yedikule, İstanbul
have a stove inside, we hometown? of the cucumber right? Photos by Oda Projesi
6 ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS

Chasing Calves in İstanbul


The City, its Walls and Orchards
Dr. Tuğba Tanyeri-Erdemir

The land-walls around the Byzantine city of utilization of these


Constantinople, modern day İstanbul, are known to have vegetable-gardens.
protected the city from its enemies for centuries. What
is not common knowledge is the role they have played The Turkish term
in providing sustenance to the city, in antiquity and in commonly used for
modern times. this type of orchards
is bostan, which
The fortifications around the ancient Byzantine capital literally indicates
were built during the reign of Emperor Theodosius as areas of agricultural
a response to the urban growth of the city, which had production of
started extending beyond the first series of walls built vegetables (cucumbers,
in the fourth century AD by Constantine the Great, the tomatoes, carrots
founder of Constantinople. Thedosian fortifications were etc.), legumes and
erected in AD 423 and went through a massive repair herbs (lettuce, parsley,
in AD 447 after a series of earthquakes inflicted serious mint, arugula etc.),
damages to the walls. The original circuit of city walls excluding orchards
included the land-walls running between the Marmara of fruit-bearing trees
Sea and the Golden Horn in a three kilometer-long and fields of grains.
strip that joined the fortifications along the seashore Bostans are normally
encircling the peninsula of the ancient Constantinople. fairly small plots of
The Theodosian walls were in fact built to defend the lands, usually around
city against destructive attacks. The fortification system four to five acres, Screenshot from GoogleEarth showing old city walls and the green belt of bostans Topkapı-Yedikule, İstanbul.
was constructed with two sturdy walls running parallel and are tended by
to each other and regularly spaced towers in between relatively few individuals, usually no more than hoping to find why this area in particular was chosen for
while among these intimidating defensive structures the the members of a single family. By this definition, such an agricultural activity and whether I could find some
entrances to the city were facilitated through monumental bostans are not suitable for large-scale production evidence of the continuity in the bostan tradition in this
gates. On the exterior perimeter of the walls, there was of vegetables, but serve as small family-enterprises. thin-strip of greenery running beside the ancient land-walls.
a deep moat. This moat, as I argue below, seems to They are, however, distinguished from individual
have played the lead role in providing vegetables for the gardens in which people grow plants for their own On a brisk November day, I started my stroll at the Tekfur
capital throughout centuries. consumption. The term bostan specifically denotes Sarayı on the north, which is the ruins of a Byzantine
small-scale agricultural production with a commercial Palatial structure built near the corner where the land-
The larger part of these mighty fortifications is still purpose. The related Turkish word bostancı refers to walls used to conjoin the defenses along the Golden
standing, and is amongst the most spectacular sights the occupation of the individual who takes care of Horn, and walked south. My journey ended at the Golden
for a modern day tourist. As you pass through one of these vegetable orchards. The motifs of bostan and Gate, the famed entrance to the city during the Byzantine
its gates entering into the ancient city, you might catch bostancı are so deeply embedded in Turkish daily Era. The Golden Gate marked the major southern gateway
a glimpse of a thin strip of emerald-green vegetable culture that the vivid image of a bostancı chasing a to Constantinople along the route by the Marmara Sea.
orchards along these monumental walls. During a short calf eating cabbages out of a bostan is featured in
study visit to İstanbul in 1996 I was struck by the beauty one of the most beloved Turkish nursery rhymes: In 1996 the majority of the bostans were located between
of these orchards. The stunning contrast between the “Kov bostancı danayı, yemesin lahanayı” [Bostancı! the Mevlevihane Kapı (Mevlevihane Gate) and the Belgrad
fresh-greenery of the orchards and the cement and glass Shoo the calf away, don’t let it eat the cabbage]. Kapı (Belgrade Gate), on a strip of land approximately one
masses of the modern city that encircled and dwarfed kilometer in length, in the southern half of the land-walls.
the Byzantine walls, to me, was striking. What brought My fieldwork included a long walk along the The bostans occupied the space between the modern
me to the orchards that fall was my decision to conduct Theodosian walls, documenting the location of each road and the ancient walls, towards the west of the
an ethno-archaeological field research as part of a bostan on route, noting the types of plants grown in fortifications, and some of them extended into the narrow
graduate-seminar I was taking on the urban history of the land, the implements and architectural features strip of land between the two walls. This strip of land is
Byzantine Constantinople. My goal was to have a better that aid agricultural production, and conducting the property of the municipality. The municipality defined
understanding of the history as well as the current interviews with the owners of these bostans. I was and rented the garden-plots to those who were capable
of tending to the land. Perhaps because there is no
private ownership, and therefore, no need for imposing
barriers marking the land, it is often hard to delineate
the borders between each bostan. It is hard to give an
exact number of the bostans along the land-walls, but
each bostan seemed to have some architectural features,
such as a little hut for storing agricultural implements or
water-wells, and a count of these features suggested an
estimation of around 20 units along the route.

In the month of November, the orchards were full of


beets, carrots, cabbages, lettuce, radish, turnips, and
onions. The owners of the plots told me about their
annual planting cycles and what vegetables would be
available for consumption throughout the year. There
was an interesting overlap in those accounts with the
Byzantine sources. One source in particular, Geoponika,
which was thought to have been compiled in AD 944-59,
gives us an interesting insight into the food production
and consumption patterns of ancient Byzantium.1 For
our purposes, it is important to highlight that silver beet,
carrot, red and white cabbage, cress, lettuce, leek, radish,
turnip, and onion were planted both in ancient times and
in 1996, following almost the exact yearly cycles. Garlic,
sweet basil, parsley, mint, rocket salad, spinach, tomato,
green pepper, cucumber and aubergine were added to the
plates of modern İstanbulites much later in history, and
were being planted in 1996. It is noted that some of these
plants, native to the Americas, had not yet made their
journey to the Old World by the time Geoponika was
“Most of the bostan owners have built small architectural features such as tool-sheds or huts to provide shade.” composed. We should also remember that the Byzantine
ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS 7

SOIL
A story by a Bostancı, Ahmet Öztürk

Once I made the mistake of bringing soil here from outside.


I poured it up there. Why did I do that? Let me explain.
I was in a little bit of trouble. Six, seven years ago there
was a children’s playground there. Kids would come and
play with such joy it was amazing. Then they tore down
the playground, destroyed it and just left a flat land. Two
or three years later, excuse me for saying, drunks started
frequenting the place. At the end of the day, I have my
kids, my family here. I would tell them not to drink here
but then that created problems of course. They would get
mad at me and break bottles. I couldn’t cope with them.
Then I thought, what would happen if I poured some
soil here, planted some trees and turned it into a garden?
I went and told a couple of people. I found a nice soil.
I came with two trucks and poured all this soil for two
days on Saturday and Sunday. I evened it all out nicely.

“Most of the vegetable-gardens are located in a thin-strip of land between the ancient land-walls and the modern road.” Then I started to plant trees. Right away on Monday thirty
municipality authorities appeared at my door. “How dare
capital did not have the agricultural conditions to support an important land for supplying the capital with fresh you pour this soil? Do you know the fine you’ll have to
its population in antiquity and basic foodstuffs like grain vegetables. Yet, the structure itself may have provided pay?” “Quick” they said, “Come to the municipality”. I
to sustain the city were imported via sea trade. As Koder the necessary architectural features for the collection of was not even scared, I was completely calm. “Ok” I said
argues, the fresh vegetable production reported in the water underground. Although there is no archaeological “I’ll come”. “You,” he said “why did you pour soil there?”
Geoponika would have significantly supplemented the data to understand whether or not the moat was paved I said “brother, here’s the deal. This place has been a
diet of the ancient inhabitants of the city.2 in any particular way, it still may have provided the dump for so many years. Do you know what I’ve been
necessary conditions for facilitating the accumulation of dealing with there for the past 6 years?” “So what” he
Evidently, it is possible to suggest that similar patterns of water. And in a peninsula where such underground water said. “How dare you put that soil there?” I said “What’s
agricultural production were taking place in İstanbul for collection had been done through elaborate man-made your point?” “How many trucks did you pour there?”
about a millennium. But how far into the past can we trace cisterns since antiquity, this unintended consequence of a he asked. I said “ten trucks”, “No” he said, “there’s more
this bostan tradition along the walls of the city? It is hard to defensive structure may have worked for the advantage of than 10 trucks there.” The fine for one truckload of soil
argue for a continuous vegetable plantation in this region, the farmers planting the land. is six million and seven hundred thousand lira. “So…”
however, one can trace evidence that hints at the use of I said to him “I have to pay you two billion five hundred
this land for agricultural production at different historical Some of these bostans are still in existence. They million lira”. Then I said “give me ten lira now because
times. The earliest suggestion that this area was used for continue their daily business within the limits of this I don’t have money to get back”. He started laughing. It
agriculture comes from the time of Emperor Thedosius. In Byzantine defensive monument. In a metropolis like turns out he used to buy tomatoes from me. “You know,
the Theodosian Edict, there is a faint reference allowing İstanbul in the early third millennium AD, where urban we’re also hard workers” he said. The chief is saying this,
farmers to store agricultural tools inside the towers of the growth takes over any available land, these ancient walls imagine. “We are obligated to write a statement” he said.
walls. While it is not indicated where exactly these farmers offer a thin, green area for agricultural growth, something
were planting, or what sorts of plants, one can assume that the city had always been short of. Even in 1996, the “Where are you going to send this statement to?” I
that since they were storing their implements in the walls, bostancıs I interviewed expressed their concerns that they asked him. “To the governor’s office”. I said “Write to
they must have been working in the immediate vicinity. would be expelled from their plots in the near future. the prime minister if you like.” I wasn’t stressed out
A crusader passing through İstanbul, Odon de Deuif, an A significant number of them possibly have already left about it. “Write to the prime minister and say ‘this
attendant of Young Louis in the second Crusade in mid their bostans. Yet some other bostancıs will still sow their man poured soil here and is planting trees’” I said.
twelfth century, briefly described the orchards around the seeds, tend their vegetables and legumes, and continue Let’s see his response. He wrote to the governor, and the
walls of the city and noted that they were watered by the chasing calves (or unsuspecting scholars) out of their governor wrote to the National Estate, authorities from
water carried to the area by underground channels.3 In bostans, as their predecessors have done for centuries. the National Estate came here to look at the place. They
1778, Dominique Sestini, an Italian priest who attempted said: “Ahmet, we wrote a sure you take care of our land.
to copy one of the inscriptions built into the land-walls, 1 Bech, H. (ed.) Geoponika (Leipzig, 1895). Until you leave this place, you are welcome to stay here”.
complained how his task was cut short by the bostancıs 2 Koder, J. Gemüse in Byzanz: die Versorgung Konstantinopels mit
who chased him away from their orchards.4 This person Frischgemüse im Lichte der Geoponika. (Vienna, 1993). At the end of the day, I put a nice soil there. I started to
stepping over their produce apparently bothered the 3 Ebersolt, J. Bizans İstanbulu ve Doğu Seyyahları (İstanbul, 1996). grow produce there. I planted thirty pine trees. Not to
bostancıs. This 18th century incident clearly indicates the 4 op. cit. mention one tree costs 100 liras. I planted Cypress trees,
presence of bostans in that very region. cheery, mulberry, pear trees. Would it be better to leave
Tuğba Tanyeri-Erdemir is the director of Science and Technology it as it was? Now I get produce from here, watercress,
One question, however, still remains unanswered: why Museum and lecturer in the Graduate Program in Architectural History, turnip, tomato, lettuce, parsley, sorrel, red cabbage, chard.
was this particular piece of land chosen for horticultural Middle East Technical University, Ankara. Otherwise it would be a hang out for alcoholics and
production for centuries? The answer could be found in druggies. Families would be scared to walk through there.
the original layout of the land-walls. In a city where water

Dudullu Tomato
has always been a scarce commodity, it is not very easy Now they are thanking me. But what did they say to me
to find a suitable location for horticulture; an activity that once? “We want those men to stay there, we don’t want
requires regular watering. Most of the bostans had their them to come to the city.” I was shocked. “Let them live
own water-wells in the vicinity of the walls, supplying by the castle there, don’t let them come into the city” he
the bostancıs with ample water for their purposes.
Although I never asked how deep they had to dig to reach
It keeps on growing by itself! said. “In fact, you should help with this, give a hand at the
sports club. You can’t give them some food? A cup of soup?”
underground water, it was quite clear that the system they Giant tomato with a mature The stuff they come up with I can’t believe sometimes.
had organized was working adequately for their purposes. taste. From Mustafa and
But what do the walls have to do with this? One of the Havva Cebir’s rich garden Right now I grow lettuce there. They came and took
pictures and said to the chief: “chief, it’s great here”.
elder bostancıs was telling me of his childhood memories.
He said he could remember “water coming from the to your plate! Part of the land belongs to the foundation and the other to
bottom of the walls” and added, “whoever built these the government. But there is a lot of demand for this place.
walls had thought of this water.” We have no indication They even make me offers but I turn them down. For the
that supplying water for agricultural activity was a priority memory of my father and grandfather I will stay here as
for Thedosius or his architects. It may have never even long as I can.
occurred to them that this area would one day become
8 ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS

The flight from the lost countryside THE GREENERY


Kjeld Hansen

Since 1950, Denmark has become one of The downturn continues


THAT GREW OUT
the most extreme farming countries in
the world, where an increasingly smaller
Back in 1950 more than 200.000 families lived off their
own agriculture. Today, the number is reduced to 12.000
full-time farms. The forecast from Danish Agriculture says
OF THE GARBAGE
part of the population own a constantly
growing share of the land. Parts of the
that in 2015 there will be just 9.100 full time farmers left.
Is this a good thing? DUMP
Agriculture’s contribution to Danish economy is
country are being de-populated as a shrinking. The agriculture and food industry’s gross
consequence of a development that income is expected to fall from 4,8% in 2000 to 4,4% in
2010. Similarly, employment is down by about 1 percent
resembles a medieval feudal society. annually. In 2010 only 108.000 full-time staff will be
employed in both primary agriculture and the food
What do you call a country where less than half percent industry. A sizable share of employment will vanish
of the population own more than 63 percent of the land? abroad for good. Already today, every 4th farm worker is
No, not “banana republic”. The correct answer is: a foreigner, especially from Ukraine and the Baltic states.
Denmark.
Yes, we are talking about a lovely country where a few For countries outside the EU it is virtually impossible to
thousand people now own a majority of the land. compete with Danish farmers as they never compete on
Photo: Oda Projesi, Topkapı, İstanbul, 2009

A
To add insult to injury,
this small group of nnex Team spoke with Mehmet Şengül
landowners receives public (born in Kastamonu, Cide, 1974) who
support in the order of made himself a bostan on the bottom of
eight billion DKK a year. the city walls, that could be taken away
Each landowner receives from him at any time since it’s the property of the
on average 250,000 DKK Municipality, but Mehmet Şengül continues to live
annually. The money is happily amidst the greenery and the produce he
paid without counter-claim. grows. He explained how he constructed it.
This money enables the
Danish farmer to break the “Before, this place used to be a dump, with rubble
developing country peasant all over the place... It was like the Halkalı dump. We
to pieces in competition. paid to put soil here. From that shed over there until
here it was all pebbles. There was one part especially,
The Rotten Banana everything you could imagine,
In just 50 years Denmark including a pull out bed was
has become the world’s dumped there. I swear I’m still
most extreme agricultural cleaning for the past three-four
country. No other years all by myself. God is my
nation has such a large witness, and I wouldn’t hide this
percentage of its area from you, I’ve struggled with this
under the plow, and with place by myself because of my
such a small proportion of equal terms. Exported goods have lots of EU grants tied financial situation, if I had hired
the population employed in primary agriculture. to their tail. Highly subsidized products such as powdered someone else I would’ve been in
People continue to flee from rural areas to the cities. milk, sugar, chicken, pork etc. have repeatedly ruined debt. Because I didn’t have any
Disturbingly, the “rotten banana” is the name we use farmers in countries poorer than the European Union. money, I prefered this place, it
to refer to the geographic area in Denmark, where daily doesn’t have any costs, the garden’s
life is plagued by the closure of stores and schools as Return to medieval times already made. The municipality
well as empty houses. The average age is high, jobs are Yet, the few Danish landowners have their own ministry police came and said ‘keep this
few, and young people only want a one-way ticket out and their own laws, which gives them a monopoly on place clean and we’ll help you
of town. most of Danish soil. Until six years ago Venstre, the ruling out’. Thanks to them they never
party had the following lines in its political program: helped. He came with a shovel,
Roughly speaking, the “rotten banana” is the loser of ‘This is a historical place, I can’t
Denmark. It extends from North Jutland down to South “Private property is the cornerstone of a free society. do anything here; I can’t bring
Jutland, from where it spreads east across the South Private property is the main guarantee for both economic the shovel up to the castle, if I
Funen, Ærø and Langeland to Lolland-Falster. It is highly and political freedom. When property is divided among break the wall, I’ll be in trouble’.
alarming that the “banana” now covers more than half of many private owners, no one has individual power to If they had gone up to the castle,
the country. The only thing that is plentiful in the “rotten control others. Liberals therefore desire a proliferation of it would be just like here. Even
banana” is farmland, pigs, all the empty houses and private property”. though I don’t make any money,
farm buildings: 30 million square meters of redundant when I compare this place’s old
buildings. This corresponds to a ten-meter wide belt The liberals have changed their view and now willingly situation to its current condition,
of buildings from the Limfjord and all the way to the accept a medieval ownership structure where a few it is very nice.
German border. people’s monopoly on the land has once again risen.
They could demolish this place
Gigantic debt percentage Despite the misery in the countryside, no effective tomorrow if they wanted; but
In 2003 agriculture’s total debt was 195 billion DKK. This measures are made to change conditions. The landscape my conscience is clear, at least I
year it passed 320 billion. Danish agriculture is simply a is emptied out of people, opportunities, resources and know I did everything by myself
bad business. The strategy of a debt percentage around jobs like a thrown away banana peel. Mono culture and and did it well. I used to work in
80 percent is extreme, even in the context of the EU, the stench of pig manure now dominate the landscape shipping, used to be a driver. I
where the Danish debt is more than twice as large as the and many of those left behind are either unemployed, on used to work for 8 or 12 hours.
average of other countries. social benefits or are pensioners, while schools, shops Here, I work 24 hours and don’t
and libraries in the area continue to close. The youth? It even earn half the money I used
How do landowners get by when they don’t earn has since long fled to the cities. to earn, but I’m happy. When you
money? They have built an impressive mortgage- get tired of the heat, you come
carousel where the price of farmland has gone up by So we got the pork for cheap but the collective price was and sit in the shade. You rest. You
285% in the last decade, without a rise in production sky-high. For every generation it ought to be our obligation start late, and end late, nobody
to match this in any way. Now the price bubble is to pass the country on in a better and more beautiful can say anything to you. I chose
threatening to burst. Food economy experts are awaiting condition than we got it – we are nowhere near that. this path.” istanbul
a possible avalanche of foreclosures and losses in the
size of billions for the banks. Kjeld Hansen is an author and journalist.
ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS 9

Astrid: I have an apartment A: Beetroot and strawberries and Fluks; they are bought A: I come here everyday,
Talk at the Garden Club just behind the small and potatoes, and then I from that guy from Holland. and come back in the
parking lot here, when I am am thinking about having We got a catalog every year evening to water when the
Trekanten (The Triangle) standing in my balcony I flowers over there where the in the garden club and chose sun is away
can see the garden. tomatoes used to be. Radish different things from there.
Copenhagen / 25 May 2008 next to the parsley and ...The Rose is a ”Superstar,” NR: How large is your garden?
Nis Rømer: So you can see if lovage. Lovage is great for the flower is pink...
it needs to be weeded? food, soups and the like, I got A: Well it’s especially big,
it from my son. Further down NR: Roses have fantastic actually a bit too big for me,
A: Yes, its practical because there is rhubarb – I already names, I’ve got to take a 150m2. Kind of too much
I am not as mobile as I used made rhubarb dessert twice. photo… Can I take a photo for a pensioner of 78 years.
to be – I had a stroke and My eldest son should have of you too? I want to be fresh but that
since then I get dizzy. So some of them when the rotten stroke has set me
now I have a walking aid on garden closes down. A: No my head is full of back. This year I tend the
wheels –you can sit on it so curlers garden a little less, so it
it’s kind of a mobile bench– NR: What is actually going looks so so. We don’t cut the
I do a lot of walking with it. to happen to the plants NR: But you can’t see them hedges anymore because
afterwards? we have to give it up. It is
NR: Please tell me a bit A: No but I have a headscarf going to be sad standing
The Garden club Trekanten had existed about yourself. A: One of my sons will on for that reason in the balcony and looking
have all the tulips, roses down at the garden after
for 30 years when last year the users had A: I was born in Tingsted, and other things. He has a NR: Ahh come on I’ll take a that. It is not only for us who
their lease for the plot suspended by the Falster. I was raised in the garden at Kongelundsvej, photo while you are looking garden, many people also
city. One year ago I visited the garden to countryside of Lolland by a the others will have the away use it for barbecuing. Also
forest guard who was my flowers. a lot of immigrants have
do an interview with one of the gardeners, foster parent because my A: OK if I am looking away... gardens here, they grow in
Astrid, about her garden. mom died when I was 10. NR: And here you have I have just taken a shower. different ways – I offer help
potatoes? Actually its nonsense before sometimes but they have
The city council lead by their gardens, and currently NR: For how long have you going into the garden but their own ways. ....the roses
major Ritt Bjerregaard made the plot is deserted and in had the garden? A: Yes, and peas but then anyway... are really beautiful. My
an election promise to build decay. This year I went back I was thinking not to sow neighbor doesn’t want me to
affordable housing, since the to document the garden A: Since the beginning; 30 anymore since we have to NR: What is the greatest cut them since they look so
housing bubble had made today. We were discussing years, its a long time. Back give up the garden this year. success amongst all the good from the apartment.
it too expensive for ordinary the recording device before then I also had my husband, things you grow?
people to get housing in the starting the interview and who planted the potatoes. NR: How much does the NR: Thanks for the
city. Thus, a housing block Astrid said that her wireless He did the things I didn’t garden yield, is it enough A: Actually all of it; my kids interview!
was planned at the site of phone had exactly enough like to do. Weeding I would for you? love beans and beetroot but
the gardening club. Then reach to cover the garden, do myself or else he would they want them preserved, A: Thank you – if you want
the project failed; the still making her able to call and take out all the vegetables A: Yes, easily but my son haha .....black currant, you can have some rhubarb,
to be built houses could take calls from her home by mistake. I also like to and I don’t eat that much gooseberry, more roses...... or if you’d like some lovage
not be sold, and therefore, phone whilst in the garden. weed and make it look nice. anyway; he comes by to eat just let me know.
not built. Before this, all In this way it was almost an everyday, but he is also on NR: How much time do you
the gardeners abandoned extension of her home. NR: What are you growing? his own... Here is Hortensia spend in your garden? Photos by Nis Rømer
BEFORE AFTER

A sign for the planned housing The gardens seen from a far while The garden of Astrid in May 2008 Paths are now growing over, Plants, weeds grow up to several Some of the roses are left behind
was put up. A graffiti on top saids still in function many plants have been removed meters height creating a wilder- adding an exotic mix to the flora.
“Not welcome” The signs have and the gardens are now ness of the gardens.
now been taken down. untended and growing over.

Black Sea Techniques


“Whatever we plant here, it grows, so we’ve planted every
type of produce here. From pepper to eggplant, cucumber,
tomato, okra, zucchini. We grow as much pumpkin as we
can. You don’t designate a special place in the field for it, you
(...) [the urban agriculture] just plant it in the empty corners of the field. For example,
beans are planted at the bottom part on the outside of the
apparently is not a priority in garden, that’s where it grows, grows where the garden ends.
We grow squash; the kind you fry or make dolma with. Also
urban planning policies and there’s zucchini, which we call arabiko. You have to plant
cabbage in the winter so you make a separate garden for that.
programmes [in Dakar]. Small Summer garden has water, cabbage doesn’t grow in water. In
spring you have to make a separate cabbage garden. When
producers are most affected by it starts to get its color, it has to be picked and sold before
the winter. After that you don’t plant again. Cabbage in the
this, as they realise that the lands winter is planted in the midst of the peppers and the beans.
We don’t make corn separately. You know there are those
they occupy may be recovered that just have cornfields, we don’t do that. They pick the corn
and plant sunflowers, then pick those and plant wheat, they
by the government at any time pretend to get two-three cycles of products in a season. We
do all three at once; corn, eggplant and cabbage in the same
for a public purpose. field in one season. Let’s call that a Black Sea discovery. I
think it’s because of the intelligence of its people. Why? There
is little soil in the Black Sea, but you still have to get all the
A. Mbaye and P. Moustier. “Market-oriented urban agricultural produce, so how are you going to do that? You plant all the
production in Dakar”, In: Growing Cities, Growing Food: Urban produce together. You can’t find this system in other regions.”
Agriculture on the Policy Agenda, Bakker, N. et al., 2001, p. 247.
by Mihrimah Konak, 40 years old, Çavuşbaşı, İstanbul
10 ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS

THE DANISH GOVERNMENT’S ASYLUM AND IMMIGRATION POLICY [2001 - CURRENT]


2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
After the elections The A series of laws are passed In addition, asylum seekers Danish Parliament declares During the first ten The European Commission
Liberal and Conservative to stop immigration and had to promise ”allegiance war on Iraq, marking what months, the Immigration Against Racism and
parties form government limit the incoming number and loyalty to Denmark and is called an ”activist foreign Administration had only Intolerance issues a harsh
with support from of asylum seekers, to make the Danish society”, they policy”. given asylum to 167 critique of the Danish
the populist Danish it the strictest legislation had to pass a citizenship persons, down from 2,500 policies stating that the
People’s Party lead by in Europe. Among these test with questions about persons in 2002. policies and statements
Pia Kjærsgaard. Together are: “The 24 year rule” Danish culture, history and by politicians have lead to
with the liberals they lead demanding that foreigners social structure. a rise in xenophobia. The
a nationalistic election and Danish people have government ignores this
campaign directed against to be 24 years old to get critique.
foreigners and Muslims residency permit through
in particular. marriage.

2006 2008 2009


Asylum procedures are The director of the An EU court ruling overturns The “Ombudsman” The United Nations Despite warnings by
tightened; now UN quota Immigration Administration central parts of the states that the Ministry criticizes Denmark for only the UN, Denmark starts
asylum seekers are resigns over a corruption immigration policy stating of Integration has broken accepting the ”best” of the sending back Iraqi refugees
admitted on the basis of scandal and bad that it is contrary to the free the law by withholding UN’s quota refugees and against their will. The
their qualifications and management. One report mobility of the work force. information on the legal says Denmark is in conflict Brorson Church in Nørrebro
resources, thus leaving out states that there were In order to avoid a situation rights of citizens regarding with the asylum idea. “It Denmark becomes a
the weakest refugees. celebrations in the in which the court’s decision immigration. is a direct discrimination temporary sanctuary.
administration upon undermines the strict Danish of the most vulnerable On the 13th of August, the
getting rid of especially legislation, the government refugees”, states the head police enters the church,
difficult asylum seekers. makes an agreement with of the UN’s resettlement arrests and detains the
To revise its image the the Danish People’s Party. program, Vincent Cochetel. men, who are later joined
agency is renamed: Danish This includes additional by the women and children,
Immigration Service. control, increased demands currently all pending forced
on documentation, demands repatriation.
that immigrants must be
employed to be able to get
married, amongst other
additional requirements. Compiled by Nis Rømer and
Lotte Rømer Grove from news
and internet sources.

Harvesting the past for a sustainable


future: reviving İstanbul’s bostans
Paul J. Kaldjian

Even as urban agriculture is being rediscovered in the core growth and pushed to the margins of urban space and
cities of the world, İstanbul’s traditional market gardens, society. Only fragments of a vast network remain, about
known as bostans continue to be intensively, skillfully, 1000 gardens totaling perhaps 10 hectares, perhaps
and sustainably farmed to maximize harvests through the 5-10% of what it had once been. Some are remnants
clever and efficient manipulation of space, season, and of bostans that have been producing for centuries,
resources. Until very recently, this agricultural production though others near İstanbul’s expanding edge, on its
was integrated into the city’s food and commercial derelict lands, or in urban protected zones have been
networks in such a way that bostans were a characteristic brought into production in the last 50 years. Otherwise, work. Like animals of the earth, we all have our duties in
feature of İstanbul’s landscape. They still can be*. their verdant contribution to İstanbul life has largely creation,” explained one bostan neighbor.
been paved under for public and private uses, the land
At least since late Byzantine times and throughout the taken for car parks and car washes, apartment blocks, Moreover, migrants are part of a long and honorable
Ottoman era, bostans satisfied the vegetable needs government projects and facilities, sports fields and gardening tradition. The early masters of vegetable
of İstanbul. After his conquest of Constantinople in play parks, flower nurseries, or, even, used for waste production were the Greeks and Armenians. Over the
1453, Fatih Sultan Mehmed resettled 30000 peasants in disposal. Bostans and their gardeners are powerless in centuries, Bulgarians, and eventually Albanians, inherited
villages now part of İstanbul to provide it with food. the intense competition for metropolitan space. In the the skills, opportunities and gardens. After World War II,
Evliya Çelebi, the 17th century Ottoman chronicler from economic calculus of urban land rent, the back-breaking, from among the waves of Anatolian migrants to İstanbul,
the courts of Süleyman the Magnificent, records 4395 risk-laden and politically insignificant work of producing people from Cide in the Black Sea coastal province of
gardens within İstanbul’s jurisdiction and Eremya Çelebi and selling vegetables pales in comparison to revenues Kastamonu began working as hired hands in the bostans,
Kömürcüyan (1637-1695) described vegetable production from a multi-story apartment block. But urban land use eventually becoming the master gardeners themselves.
as widespread throughout the city and a part of the daily is not only about profit. The perception that bostans So, despite a common perception that urban agriculture
life of most neighborhoods. Some neighborhoods were are marginal, inefficient or unhygienic reflects common in İstanbul is a practice brought by migrants from the
renowned for their produce – Arnavutköy was known for myths that face urban agriculture all around the world. village, today’s second and third generation of gardeners
its fragrant strawberries and the Çengelköy cucumber was Respected traditional practices are often pushed toward from Cide maintain a long İstanbul tradition.
described by one traditional seed supplier as being like the economic, social, and even legal margins. Since the
lokum (Turkish delight). beginning of the Turkish Republic, urban development If evaluated in terms of their food contribution to
and industrialization in a European fashion have been İstanbul’s 12-15 million people, and compared to what
At the end of the 19th century, over 100 clusters of bostans the priority and goal. In İstanbul, Western style economic is produced in the global, agro-industrial marketplace,
were recorded within the old city, with reports of more institutions –supermarkets, for example– are praised in the production from İstanbul’s remaining bostans seems
than 1200 vegetable gardens on both the European media as modern and efficient urban ideals. In contrast, quite insignificant. At the local level, however, İstanbul’s
and Asian sides of İstanbul. There was little decline in traditional institutions like gardening and outdoor bostans contribute significantly to household and
vegetable production between İstanbul’s Byzantine and markets are often portrayed as dirty, unpredictable, and neighborhood needs. They generate high value crops,
Republican periods. Only since the start of İstanbul’s backwards, even a ruralization of the urban. Yet, people where fresh vegetables are a culturally and nutritiously
rapid growth in the 1950’s have İstanbul’s bostans been familiar with bostans appreciate their contribution to important component of the diet. As sources of income
disappearing, eliminated by the processes of urban İstanbul’s landscape. “The work of the bostancıs is holy and fresh produce, they represent valuable jobs and
ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS 11

Throughout the city, bostancıs have beautified numerous


hectares of land and serve as something like park
rangers. With their constant presence and fruitful actions,
they effectively patrol and monitor their areas, keeping
out unwelcome and illegal activities, which can include
garbage dumping, unpermitted construction, and criminal
activity. For example, tidy, well-tended bostans provide
a photographic foreground and ensure an unimpeded
view of the 1600 year old walls that are so much a part
of İstanbul’s identity. Similarly, a bostan protects and
enhances the Piyale Paşa Mosque, built by Süleyman the
Magnificent’s famous architect Sinan.

The bostan agroecosystem is a store of agroecological


knowledge that has developed over centuries and now
serves as a model for urban agriculture. Though the long
tradition of bostan market garden production seems to
have a bleak future in the face of the combined forces
of urban development, modernization and globalization,
the disappearance of İstanbul’s bostans is not inevitable.
Also, these historic gardens should not be treated as
quaint relics from a romanticized past. Rather, they
can be used to renew derelict urban spaces, preserve
green spaces, maintain cultural identity, feed people
and support livelihoods – the contributions of İstanbul’s
Conceptualization of typical historical İstanbul bostan at the beginning of the 21st century, based on an actual 7.5 dönüm [1 dönüm is about a bostans must be considered potential models for a
quarter of an acre] bostan still in İstanbul's Fatih District. Missing from the representation are now edges, irregular spaces and intercropping of sustainable İstanbul. Recognizing this, governmental
lettuce, beans, corn and tomatoes (sketch by author). recognition and support is an important first step. Given
their myriad and demonstrated benefits, bostans can be
important food sources. Within their neighborhoods, their history. The bostan agroecosystem is a repository of local encouraged among policies and programs of long term
presence increases access to fresh produce, as bostancıs knowledge that could provide the catalyst for future or and widespread social, cultural, environmental and
tend to sell their produce at lower costs to local friends renewed programs of urban agriculture. As their long economic benefits.
and neighbors, give to the needy, and provide vegetables history in İstanbul bears witness, and as every remaining
wholesale to neighborhood vendors. Some bostancıs with bostan demonstrates, bostancıs have been productive, Toward filling such urban needs, an urban agriculture
access to affluent customers also receive a premium for exemplary, and committed land managers. When given the based on İstanbul’s long tradition of bostan market
fresh, high quality produce. opportunity for secure tenure to land, they will confidently gardening presents numerous opportunities for urban
innovate and make capital investments to improve life and health, for local neighborhood community
Since the 1980s, urban agriculture has received sustained production. Beyond enhancing competitiveness, certainty development and for keeping the city safe, clean and
attention from social scientists interested in urban food may also reduce unsightliness by increasing the willingness green. İstanbul has the potential to be a leader and
security, informal economies, urban sustainability and of bostancıs to invest in the upkeep of their bostans. example in an internationally recognized and valued
as a driver of urban economic development. Recent movement. In 2005, İstanbul signed the United Nations
examinations of alternative food networks in the world’s İstanbul’s bostans exemplify the remarkable set Environment Programme’s Urban Environmental
economic core highlight the benefits of local production of agricultural, environmental and social benefits Accords. In this Green Cities Declaration, there are a
and short food supply chains for their environmental, that skilled land managers can generate in a harsh, series of actions each signatory city is encouraged to
community-building, economic and cultural benefits. From resource-poor urban setting, with benefits that extend implement. İstanbul’s bostans are uniquely suited to
Milwaukee to Helsinki, urban agriculture is on the rise. to neighborhoods, communities and, ultimately, support many of these. In contrast to many other cities
the entire city. Thus, the livelihood goals of urban around the world where urban agricultural movements
Clearly, bostan production is sustainable production. For agriculturalists are combined with other, broadly are being reinvented, İstanbul retains a tradition and
many centuries, on the same lands, İstanbul’s bostancıs embraced, social and environmental goals. 21st century culture from which it can draw to face the demands
relied on natural fertilizers to sustain healthy, productive bostancıs are conscientious land managers in a broad facing contemporary cities and their citizens. For a
soils and produce high quality vegetables. With the sense. Throughout the city, they support households, society sometimes conflicted over its Ottoman history
removal of livestock from the city, pressure to rely upon sustain land, protect communities, serve the poor, – tensions between glorious empire and non-European
chemical fertilizers has increased. In addition to the enhance historical settings, maintain traditions, beautify premodernity – bostans demonstrate that this very
expense, bostancıs and their customers insist that the landscapes, and performing civic services – all in addition history can contribute highly-valued urban benefits.
quality of produce is worse with chemical fertilizers. For to feeding people. The incentive to work hard to perform İstanbul’s bostans are a living link to its past that have
these reasons, most bostancıs prefer to make arrangements these multiple functions is the permission to cultivate the the potential to make meaningful contributions to its
with dairies and farms in the vicinity around İstanbul to land. In this way, and since many of the lands on which future.
buy truck loads of manure. In a related manner, bostancıs bostans are found have been designated as green zones
are concerned over the widespread prevalence of hybrid or protected from development, the city and community * For citations of sources and a more extensive discussion of İstanbul’s
and genetically modified seeds. Compounding the reap multiple benefits at no cost. As a beautiful respites bostan gardens, see Paul Kaldjian’s article “İstanbul’s Bostans: A
expense, such seeds preclude the opportunity to preserve from the concrete and cacophony that is contemporary Millennium of Market Gardens,” published in The Geographical
seeds from one season for the next. İstanbul, bostans could be an ideal way of keeping, Review, Vol. 94, No. 3, July 2004, pages 284-304
protecting, and expanding İstanbul’s parks and green
Despite the pace and magnitude of İstanbul’s growth, belts and corridors, combining productive with aesthetic Paul J. Kaldjian is an associate professor of geography in the University
urban agriculture continues, rooted in its culture and landscapes and ecological zones. of Wisconsin - Eau Claire, USA.

A Day’s Work in the Bostan


Saban’s Bostan
things. With planting, you do it in the cool of the night or early
morning. At noon, you go home and take care of the house.
But when it’s time to pick, you have a deadline. They go to the
farmers market on Saturday, so they have to pick the produce
on Friday or Thursday. Then you can’t complain about the heat
and say, “let me have a break”. Before we got married, at the Number one in gardening,
time we were making this into a garden, this land here that
you see until those trees over there, all used to belong to us.
a master gardener. He gets
Then they sold it. This whole property here was all peppers, the best produce. He plants
beans… When I got married in 1992 there were 20 thousand
poles of beans here! I’m not even counting the beans. Then we something and walks
didn’t have this, “ok today is Sunday or Wednesday, let me rest off, he doesn’t even
“A day’s work in the bostan changes depending on the day. today.” We used to pick beans everyday. We were in the field
There could be hoeing one day. When you have to plant, every day. I spent 23 years here. I grew up in Çavuşbaşı, on look back. He’s like
which you have to do in the cool of the evening, if you plant it
in the middle of the day, it’ll die right away. You have to plant
these lands. We worked as shepherds, took care of cows. There
were pine groves and meadows. We would take the cows to
a balance, that’s
it in the cool so that it doesn’t die. You’ll never see anyone in eat grass. When my sister got married, we took over her duties how much of
the field at noon here, because the hot weather is exhausting. in the garden with my brother and mother.”
But when it’s time to pick, doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold, a master he is.
by Mihrimah Konak, 40 years old, Çavuşbaşı, İstanbul
you just have to pick it. Planting and picking are two different
12 ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS

animals. We always used a very close relative of my


We struggled and dug
UNDERCOVER TREES Nuriye Karadeniz / March 2009, Arnavutköy
animal, chicken manure. We
had sheep; sheep manure,
large animal manure. First,
husbands. We don’t feel the
need for anyone else.

ON THE MINT FIELD we would dump the big


pieces of manure, in time
this would mature and
When I am making pickled
cucumbers I put some
mustard and vinegar in it.
become a good fertilizer. I don’t know what you call
Then in the autumn we’d it here, is it cucumber herb?
collect it and spread it all I pick the herbs from the
around. After spreading street. You know things like,
it we’d turn the soil over. what you call, fennel… We
Then the soil would freeze. used to have it in Bulgaria
When it freezes it gets a too. We’d put it inside the
flour-like consistency. It’s cucumber, when we came
really nice. You don’t even here we found the same
need artificial fertilizers. herbs. All those herbs,
Let’s say I plant pepper, I stinging nettle, patience
wait one week or ten days dock are in that empty land
Photo: Oda Projesi, Büyükçekmece, İstanbul, 2009 for it to settle down. Then up there. Now they are not
Mine is a little garden in the midst of

İ
I put chicken manure on there but when the weather
SKİ (the water company of İstanbul) will soon pebbles. But it’s not a suitable place for it. But not too much. I put gets hot, they’ll grow there.
rearrange the areas around Büyükçekmece Lake lightly and dig, then two
as recreational parks. That is the reason for
the winter. I am a Bulgarian immigrant. three days later I water, Before we came here
their planting trees in the middle of the mint We worked a lot here, not just one kind I don’t splash too much (the hills of Arnavutköy,
field. Until they start the construction, the field of work: we did factory work, we did water, just a little. Here I Bosphorus, İstanbul) we
is allowed to stay there. But one can see the very find some bird manure (she used to have a place in
strange combination of small trees and the mint.
gardening and housework. laughs) if you look for it the hills of Bebek. There
Once the trees grow, the mint will remain in shadow you’ll find it! Otherwise we were a lot of trees there.
and farming will be impossible. I did gardening for 10 years. to start school. There were don’t put fertilizers here, we My husband vaccinated
Back at home we used to schools in the villages… The never did. Since the produce them quite a lot. Just when
The bostancı who owns this field inherited his work in the field. While we kids have grown up and we buy has hormones, the trees grew and started
profession from his family. His father used to be a were growing up, everybody moved away. Now we are we should at least make giving fruit, they came and
gardener in Küçükçekmece. istanbul used to have gardens. There comfortable here. We have our own produce without. dug out the trees. They took
was no farmers market like a house in Silivri Kavaklı. We’re a little uneasy when fully-grown trees and put
here. I come from Tikenlik It’s not such a big garden we’re eating what we buy them in their own garden.
village in Burgaz. When but we have about 300 from outside. The only time We didn’t even get to see
I was growing up, our square meters. We built a we eat good is when we them. Oh, what a nice
garden was very big. We house of 100 square meters. go to the village and the garden we had in Bebek…
My garden here and the garden grew everything on our We have a little space just neighbors give us. We all We used to have two big
own, we grew corn, pepper, to grow a few things. If moved together, everybody cucumbers. They dug them
in the city are obviously not the tomatoes, cucumbers, someone said today, “go knows each other. out. How I cried at the
same. There were no gardens in whatever we needed. live there “ I could do it time… We don’t need a
Kadıköy in the old times, even now Nowadays you go buy those (she laughs). They gave a At home (Bulgaria) you big place, a space for two
things from the farmers loan for us Bulgarians, I just eat what you grow, or three trees is enough. It
there is only a few. In Bostancı, market, right? I went from am paying it. I have seven if you don’t have it, you wasn’t so big, but the soil
where there are skyscrapers now, gardening to factory work. years left. That’s why I’m don’t eat it. Whoever had was very good. Our current
there used to be gardens everywhere We had to come here in struggling, of course it’d be some extra would give it garden’s soil was burned.
1990. The things we’ve seen easier if there was only one out to people. There were The person before us had
all the way to İzmit. Then there was and been through. Shocking person to feed. no things like selling, or thrown out pieces of glass,
Üsküdar… But when you mentioned things… We understand very making money. We also petroleum waste, all his
Beykoz product, everyone’s eyes well what Palestine is going The garden makes me used to give seeds to each trash. We cleaned the place
through right now. happier than anything else. other. Say you have celery one by one with our own
would open up in the market. I love to work in the garden. seeds and I have lettuce; hands. We struggled and
Everything from Beykoz, the beans… I never worked in other My husband likes it even you’d give me yours and I’d dug. How much soil, how
The only thing was we didn’t have gardens here. My soil is more. I love it, but it gets give you mine, everything much fertilizer we carried
hardly soil… We are used difficult with my asthma. went around like that. We there. Then people from
tomatoes. At that time tomatoes to it from back home, if we My husband doesn’t stop used to be so close, you surrounding buildings came
here used to be sour. We’d buy don’t work in the garden for a minute when we go wouldn’t even believe our and said what a difference.
the seeds from the tomatoes in we can’t sleep. We have to to our village house. He relationship. For example, if Ours is burned soil, no
grow. I do it together with always finds some garden someone was constructing a matter how much effort
Dudullu, plant here, but when it my husband. He studied to work on. We can’t do the new house; it’s your friend, you put into it, it is never
grows here the taste is sour. Yet it’s gardening in Bulgaria. gardening there when we’re your neighbor. Nobody that good. Back home our
a nice taste… The vegetables, air In the school they teach here. If you don’t water it, it would just sit there, they’d soil was yellow too, but
everything, even things doesn’t grow. For good soil, go and help if they were it was fruitful. No matter
and water in Beykoz are very good. like vaccinations… Here we you have to turn the soil not busy. They’d build the how much you pick it, it
We use drinking water for the field. are superintendents of a over all nicely before the house quickly. When they still gets black. Knowing
Not from the tap. Not even from the building, we grow stuff in cold weather comes. When were constructing the roof gardening means growing
the garden of that building. the turned over soil gets of the house, nobody would your produce for your own
pool, when we use the pool’s water It’s not our own garden. frozen, it becomes ideal. go out to the garden that needs. We started from a
it’s only because we are really in You could hardly call this Then you plant on that day; they’d say “so and little seed and turned it into
place a garden, it looks soil and get nice produce. so is putting the roof up a field. We did everything.
need. Beykoz has a reputation. Go to nice only because we work Of course you have to be today” and they wouldn’t
Kasımpaşa on the European side and so hard on it. You may ask careful about watering it. work that day. Whatever If you make your garden
they will ask “Are these beans from “what have you done here You have to be careful not to is needed, hoes, shovels… with love and care it’ll come
that it is creating so much do it daily. It shouldn’t grow When we came here things out nice. They have to know
Beykoz?” Same with cabbage, they stir?” Now, the winter has too much weed. You know were very different. We were you like them. Just like how
wouldn’t buy products from Samsun passed. If I had good soil, those wild weeds, you have very estranged. You buy you care for a flower. They
or Adapazarı. Even in the field the the broad beans would’ve to keep on picking them everything. But we got used understand just like flowers.
grown up to my knee right out, and cleaning the field. to it. We are four families All day long you have to
difference of the cabbage is visible. now. As far as I know, there If you don’t pay too much that know each other in tend to them, I wonder if
You can’t find a cabbage that tastes are many immigrants from attention, those weeds İstanbul (families that they’re good, let’s see how
like this elsewhere. our region that work in the will take over. Fertilizer immigrated from Bulgaria). they’re doing, do they need
farms here. Farming comes is the first phase of the We’ll always see each other. water, etc… but all with love.
Little pieces of knowledge from Mustafa Bey and Havva Hanım naturally to us. We came work. For example I never With one of the families,
about the Beykoz produce to İstanbul because of the used artificial fertilizers in our grandmothers are Interview & Photo by
kids, it was time for them Bulgaria. We used to have sisters, with the other it’s Oda Projesi
ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS 13

Why bostans are necessary


Yılmaz Korkmaz

Urban agriculture, is an agricultural process which were problematic in terms of legal standing and public
contains the activities of raising plants and animals in development projects. At the moment in İstanbul, there are
and around the city, including the production, distribution around a thousand bostancıs that are growing vegetables
and sales of basic necessities (such as compost, seeds, and fruits in spaces of 1 to 2.5 acres of land.
etc) in order to generate income and obtain essential fresh
foods (vegetables, milk, eggs, poultry, herbs, flowers, Because of their long history, a culture of bostans was Photo by Oda Projesi, bostan pool near Ayamama Creek, İstanbul, 2009
plants, etc.) Urban agriculture is not just a temporary born. You can see that a lot of neighborhoods and regions
phenomenon brought into the city by those migrating in İstanbul the usage of the word bostan is still prevalent. occupy spaces that are otherwise unused because they
from rural areas. On the contrary, it is an integral part of In addition, the fame of products, such as the Çengelköy are “problematic to use in other ways” (in terms of
the urban ecological and economic system that uses the cucumber and Yedikule lettuce, have made them the legal standing and public development projects, risky in
characteristic resources of the city (natural waste, waste preference of farmers and consumers even in rural areas geological terms, i.e. around the airport, etc) In addition,
water, unusable property). Urban agriculture is a tool outside the city. nothing that grows in the bostan is ever thrown away.
of urban sustainability; it creates green areas, generates Excess produce or bad produce is given to the poor, plant
income and supports social integration as well as When we look at the broad advantages of urban agriculture; waste is used to feed animals or used as fertilizers in the
providing healthy food products to the city. garden.
The producer can sell directly to the consumer thereby
It is known that around the world, 800 million people avoiding the commission chain of distributor-wholesaler- When we look at the points above, we can see that
work in urban agriculture. In addition, 15% of the world’s vendor; this gives the consumer the opportunity of getting with matters such as the safety of the food in bostans,
food necessities is provided by urban agriculture and it daily fresh foods at a cheap price and generates more employment, environment and the rational usage of urban
creates 15.000 new jobs every year. Urban agriculture, profit for the producer. resources, urban agriculture provides a lot of the principles
widely used in the world’s least developed countries, as It creates jobs, therefore helping unemployment; while for sustainable development. Still, the single reason for
well as countries with problems of food safety, is not used a number of families can work full time in a land of the disappearance of bostans in İstanbul is the rental
sufficiently and consciously in Turkey and countries in the 1.5 acres, during the harvest of the so-called “for profit” prices. Until today the development and settlement plans
surrounding area (www.cityfarmer.org, www.ruaf.org) produce sold in bunches such as parsley, arugula, and dill, of İstanbul have been constructed around the framework
lots of daily work opportunities arise for poor women that of transportation and industrialization and have ignored
İstanbul has been developing its own version of urban live in the area. natural resources and green areas. At this point, İstanbul
agriculture through the bostan culture, which has been For the city that has turned into a pile of concrete and can no longer carry this load. The increasing loss of
around for more than a thousand years. These bostans cars, bostans are like an oasis. With their organized bostans and the decline of green areas in and around the
continued their function with little change until the second and green appearance, not only do they provide an city, is not only a loss of a historical and cultural heritance
half of the 1900s. The strong wave of industrialization aesthetically pleasing sight but they also prevent the land but also the loss of the city’s future.
and immigration led to a massive increase of rental prices from turning into a dumpster.
and prepared the end of the thousand year-old gardens. Bostans make rational use of the unutilized sources Yılmaz Korkmaz is the chairman of Volunteers of Social Development
After this, the bostancıs had to go after properties that of the city. Currently most of the bostans in İstanbul Association, İstanbul.

HORSE
Fruit as a Calendar
As any visitor to Kenya’s “You plant fruit around the bostan, you don’t only get
capital can see, farming activities fruit but also shade. You relieve your stress as you watch
are everywhere, not only in the them. When you pick a cherry from the tree, it reminds
outskirts but also in the heart of you when the fruit will be ready. If you work in the garden
A story by a Bostancı, Ahmet Öztürk the city. Along roadsides, in the and there is no fruit, you don’t know when the produce
will be ready... Yes, fruit for us, is a calendar. In a couple
middle of roundabouts, along and of days the figs will be ready. Now there are figs on the
between railway lines, in parks, trees. These fruits are for pleasure, even though I sell
In the old times it was difficult to dig soil. Today I couldn’t along rivers, under power lines, in outside, when people pass by here and see the fruit, they
even carry those forks they used. The fork was so big that they short, in all kinds of open public have to eat it, they can’t pick of course. If they don’t get to
would call it “the black fork”. It is twice the size of the fork eat, my soul doesn’t rest. Back in the village, sometimes
that I use now, thick and big. It would take about fifteen days
spaces, crops are cultivated and there would be no fruit in our garden, but there would be
for one person to turn over this land. Now I can plow this animals like cattle, goats and sheep in the neighbor’s and we’d pick from the neighbor’s tree,
place in one hour because I have a hoe. It also breaks up the roam around. What most visitors do it’s been like that since my childhood. People pass by here
soil. In the past they would hire around ten men or use horses not see is that there is even more and see the fruit, ‘oh what nice looking mulberries’, of
and cattle to plow the land. But I do know about horses. The farming, notably in backyards in the course they want to taste it, and I feel bad if they don’t.
horses would run pulling the forks to turn over the land. It When they pick from the tree and eat, I feel happy. When
was torture for the animal of course. The animal would get residential areas. the figs are done, you climb the castle and easily pick from
very tired. They would dig out the land first and then go the tree. If a kid comes and eats a fig, I get happy. I get
back to the beginning and do it all over again to distribute D. Foeken and A. Mboganie Mwangi. "Increasing food security pleasure from the tree that I planted.”
the fertilizer. So they would need about ten days just to dig. through urban farming in Nairobi", In: Growing Cities, Growing
Imagine, in 21 days you get your first crop. It takes time. Food: Urban Agriculture on the Policy Agenda, Bakker, N. et al.,
by Mehmet Şengül, 35 years old, Topkapı, İstanbul
It used to be very hard, lots of effort given, villagers would 2001, p. 303.
migrate into the city to look for a job and end up either
farming somewhere or working as a porter. In the past, they
Çavusbası Beans
The labour is provided mainly
would water the land with horses. They would make a pool
and fill the pool with water, when it was full they would let by women [in Nairobi]. For
the water run and walk around the land. The poor horse instance, in 80-85% of the farming
would go around the land with the water all day long. As households in Korogocho and
if that was not enough for the poor animal, at two thirty Pumwani/Eastleigh, the women When you say beans, Çavusbası
the horse would go carrying all the produce to the market so
were responsible for the farming has a special place; all the
that it was before five o’clock in the morning. They would
load baskets on the poor tired horse. They were called çatma, activities (Mwangi 1995). Cultivation vendors know. They don’t buy
they would load ten çatmas in the carriage, take them to the practices are usually very simple: beans from any other place, they
market at two thirty and get their money on the weekend. the panga (sturdy bush knife) and wait for the Çavusbası beans to
That’s if they could get their money! Believe me, horses were jembe (hoe) are about the only tools
a lot more expensive back then. It was like a Mercedes, of arrive. The effort in the
course there were no cars at the time. I lived through all of used. The use of “modern inputs” is Çavusbası gardens
this. My father suffered a lot. My grandfather lived at a time quite limited.
of clogs. Imagine what they went through, wearing clogs…
becomes the delight
There were no shoes at the time. op. cit., p. 309. of your palate.
14 ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS

RB: All my life I’ve done municipality for a place they ready. If you’re going to sell without pesticides has holes
Urban Agriculture Project farming. Not in a big farm showed us this, we decided it yourself, you take it to the because of the soil ticks,
like this of course. What did on this place and started farmers market. You prepare when the plant is small the
of İstanbul we plant? We would mostly cultivating the land, we paid the place and sell until the ticks start to eat it. When
plant wheat and grain. the farmer, he left the place night, then you bring all the you don’t use pesticides
Gürpınar, İstanbul / 15 August 2009 to us. We did the following: empty cases back home. you have holes. Then the
HB: She would grow in order to prevent the This is not the work of a few customer comes and says “I
whatever the other villagers rain from coming in people. We try to do all this want it without holes!”
used to grow, of course she and damaging the land just the two of us.
also used to grow for her we made a drainage In the beginning we started
own consumption as she was channel, then we made a OP: Do you call this place with organic farming, then
far away from town. She has prefabricated shed for the a bostan or a garden? How it turned into conventional.
more practical knowledge needs of the people working big is it? We started using artificial
than most gardeners. She’s in the field, like when they fertilizers because it’s so
been doing this for a long need food and drinks. We HB: It’s bigger than a much more economic, it’s
time, she was farming in the also built a shed in order to bostan. The property is impossible to farm using
village and when we moved keep our machines like our about two and a half acres animal fertilizers all the time.
to the city she continued hoe, etc. Then we thought but we can only use about
farming, she knows what’s about the winter and made one and a half acres. Part OP: Don’t you think the
Photo from the archives of the urban agriculture project, 2004. involved very well. two greenhouses for the of it is left outside. When term organic is a little bit
periods when there were you look towards the ambiguous? What is organic
Haydar Balcı (34 years old) and Rukiye OP: Do you give your greenhouse classes. This airport by the Ayamama in your opinion?
Balcı (53 years old) participated in the year- produce anywhere else was the beginning; first the River, this place is a lot
besides the farmers’ market? land, then this prefabricated bigger than over there, it’s HB: Organic agriculture
long project Urban Agriculture initiated shed, then the machines 4, 5 or 6 acres. The ones is the type of farming
by the UYD (Accessible Life Association) RB: We used to give to the and equipment: hoeing by Yedikule are smaller, at that does not intervene
in 2004. The UYD project was about 25 markets in periods when we machine, fork, water pipes, most 1 acre. I got a degree on produce growth with
produced a lot. etc. We needed money in garden plants so we call chemical fertilizers or
women farming with organic methods in in the beginning, so this it gardening, bostan sounds pesticides but relies on
a land given by the Gürpınar Municipality. OP: Is this enough to turned into a project and the to me like an old expression. completely herbal and
According to the project manager Yılmaz support your life? European Union supported Bostan is for those who natural resources. It is
it too. grow melon, watermelon, nature friendly and does
Korkmaz, urban agriculture would not only these kinds of things.
HB: We have my father’s not kill living beings. It
make İstanbul greener but could also be retirement, let’s say it helps Talking about what this Tomatoes, eggplants… only tries to repel them
an effective tool to fight poverty. to get this place going. work contains, firstly it’s through natural ways. You
the location, the land; OP: Do you have any use some herbal mixtures
RB: We’re able to manage to be able to continue in connection to the organic or other living things to
Oda Projesi: Could you talk of it then”. Now we have this place out of emotional the winter, a greenhouse; market? struggle with them, you
a little about yourself? a worker and my father is engagement rather than a the materials used in still let them live but you
helping too. We are making material one. production, seeds, fertilizers, HB: No, you need a also fulfill your needs. It’s
Rukiye Balcı: Now you’re this part green. We are pesticides; of course you certificate for that, we like a shared life.
recording and saying “We’re trying to grow produce that OP: In the urban agriculture need to go to İstanbul to applied for it too but never
always the ones talking. is close to natural produce project there were 25 women. get these. You have to find followed up because it’s OP: Where would you like to
Now let’s hear what you because it’s healthier. Besides them how many the closest animal farm uncertain how long we will make a garden in İstanbul?
have to say” am I right? My people were in the team that and buy the fertilizer, then stay here. The process is Let’s say they’ll give you any
name is Rukiye Balcı. We’re There are places which executed the project? you need to make good at least one or two years place you like.
from Divriği, Sivas, from are designated by the connections; from the knife and certification companies
Doğanköy. My son went municipality to turn into HB: There was a project you use in harvesting to the come often for auditing. This RB: I would like to do it in
to school and became an green areas. They make coordinator, our friend rope you will use in tying place was assigned for three front of my house in Avcılar.
agricultural engineer. If I parks, gardens, places Yılmaz. I was the the arugula, parsley and years. Because we don’t There, you have both the
had understood well what where people could go agricultural engineer, then dill, you need to know very know what will happen nature and the city. If I were
an agricultural engineer was and have fun or just relax. there was a farmer. He now well the places you can buy after that we didn’t follow a little more younger and
when he first explained to These are the municipality’s works here on salary. Then these. You need a person up. But even if you take healthier I would’ve liked to
me, I wouldn’t have wanted service areas. You know, there was a friend that took to do this. For example, the it to the farmers market, have a farm, have workers
him to study that. because they have social care of the administrative person who cultivates the people don’t care, they don’t on the farm, would like to
responsibility projects. part. In other words, soil is a separate person. say “oh, that’s organic”. sell to the farmers market.
Haydar Balcı: In 2003 we Actually they need gardens four people, plus the 25 Then there’s the preparation They don’t say “let’s pay 10 If you asked me what I
came to İstanbul, looked instead of these empty women and the teachers of the soil. When we go onto instead of 5”. Also because would choose for my life
for a house, and bought a parks. Both serving for that came from outside to the field you’ll see, there are its appearance is not that I’d say agriculture. It’s very
place in Avcılar. With my vegetable production and give lessons. This lasted these things we call pans great, you can’t compete difficult but I love it.
teacher Yılmaz’s help we set as a place where they could one year. The second year for detecting inclinations with the others. For instance
up our work here between have a cup of tea or a a lot of them had already on the land. With forks… a red cabbage grown OP: Thanks.
2004 and 2005. We worked nice fresh breakfast in the left, we continued with the We also do sloping, so that
here for two years, the morning, they need to make remaining people. Then when we water the land the
first year it was the urban places where people can in the later years they also water doesn’t just run off
agriculture project, the socialize, they could make quit. There were women the field, there’s watering,
second year we continued better use of these places… living in the surrounding maintenance, cleaning,
by ourselves here while at Kids could come, there used area. When we need labor hoeing, applying pesticides,
the same time doing the to be ducks, animals but force we call them in. They those processes. After the
organic and sustainable we couldn’t take care of come to work and get their produce has grown you go
farming techniques in the everything here, so they just food necessities from here. into the phase of harvesting,
Büyükçekmece basin. Of disappeared. It’s a great In return they take home that is a separate work.
course later on when the thing especially for kids; whatever they want. They Let’s say someone wants a
project finished, all our where do tomatoes grow? help for a couple of hours. thousand bundles of parsley,
friends scattered around On the tree, or the ground, it is not possible for one
to different places. We underneath the ground? OP: What kinds of things person to cut all of that. In
stayed here, and assumed Imagine just picking it from did you do while building one day one woman could
ownership of the place. the garden, cutting it and this place? What units does cut 300 to 400 given that
My mother came too, we bringing it to the table, this work contain? Obviously there aren’t so many weeds
worked together for two these kinds of places are you two are doing the work in the field. This means one
years. She put in more effort necessary for a city to have. of many. woman will be cutting a
than me into this place. whole day. Then there’s the
Later on I started focusing OP: You came to İstanbul HB: In the beginning washing of all the produce.
more on school, to tell with a big project. What when we started building You put all of it in a pool,
you the truth I got a little were you doing in Divriği? this place, a farmer from wash it, run off all the dirt
tired. So my mother said Were you doing agriculture Gürpınar was cultivating and soil. Then you pack it
“ok I’m going to take care there? here. When we asked the in cases and make them Photo by Oda Projesi, Rukiye Balcı, Gürpınar, 2009
ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS 15

Ordinary people who potatoes, and a chili plant. and chicken manure. We We also have been left in
Creating a social space would like to grow some But people have squash, have a watering post in the relative peace when the
vegetables or flowers or leek, herbs all sorts of corner, we try and use as riots took place around
with urban farming have a place to socialize. things. The Chinese of little as possible because the Youth House last year.
course have their special its communal water for the They came in here and
The Garden at Blågårdsgade, Nørrebro, NR: Does the garden have things. block that everyone pays for. took whatever they could
Copenhagen a name? Some really want to water to burn, but they didn’t
NR: What is the ideal garden a lot, the Chinese think damage our gardens. But
PL: It was originally the size for you? its a rice field – but that’s they did take wood and
A plot of land in the central part of garden-union Blågården, their thing and we have furniture, birdhouses to
Nørrebro was the hot spot in the fight but we renamed it into just PL: What I have! I couldn’t told them to save water. make fires in the street.
The Garden. control any bigger. Then there is a big barrel But apart from that, the
for citizens’ right to the city in the 80’s. collecting rainwater from garden wasn’t disturbed
Today it serves as an urban garden and a NR: Can you talk about how NR: Do you have any the roof of the block. That or damaged by people.
social gathering spot. the garden works? guidelines for what to grow? saves a lot of water. But the people in the block
next to it also take care and

Pia showing her premium sized cucumbers. The garden is also a social gathering point. One of the gardens, this one is probably the Chinese one.

Nis Rømer: How did you get NR: And how did you learn PL: There are 15 gardens PL: No I’d say we grow NR: How do you use the keep an eye out. Sometimes
the garden? to grow? here. My garden is 7 by anything on a trial and error produce? homeless people sleep
1.5 meters. We have done basis – it has to be fun. If it here at night but that is all
Pia Lisewsky: I got it when PL: I asked the others and the most ourselves, built doesn’t work, well then we PL: We eat it of course, right as long as they don’t
I moved here, I came here, learned by trial and error. a small fence around and just try something new the but then we also swap a destroy anything.
brought some friends and so on. There is a similar next time. lot – we all have something
they asked if I wanted a NR: How old is the whole garden on the other side different. If we have a NR: Nobody comes and eats
garden so I said yes. garden? of the daycare, but it is not NR: What is your favorite communal barbecue we the fruits and vegetables?
at all the same, it doesn’t produce? walk around and pick
NR: How is it organized? Do PL: It is built on top of work and they want to be vegetables, or if someone PL: Not really and if they did
you have to be a member? Byggeren* a building a part of our garden. It is PL: This year I am especially needs a bouquet of flowers it wouldn’t be a problem, as
playground. There was a lot mainly immigrants and fond of the tomatoes, mine you ask around and get long as they are gentle.
PL: You have to sign up of trouble then. It was the they don’t have the surplus are great this year. They are permission to pick them.
at the housing office, then time of the BZ movement energy to make it work, also the hardest to grow. Photos by Nis Rømer
you can get it if something (squatters). The garden as they are not so organized The year before none of the NR: Do you have any
becomes available. But you such is around 20 years old or active as in this garden. tomatoes were any good. problems in relation to
have to live in the housing I guess. In the beginning There is money for soil and Everyone had a zillion the city council or other
complex around here, it has when we were digging we small building projects but tomatoes but they all went authorities in relation to * “Byggeren” was a building play-
around 800 apartments. It found a lot of leftovers in the you have to put in the work black. having the garden? ground that was central in the
costs 150Dkr a year to have soil from the city and from yourself. citizens’ fight for the right against
a garden. Byggeren. NR: Where does your soil PL: Not really, it might be politicians and urban planners
NR: What kind of produce and fertilizer come from? that they want to build a deciding over their neighbor-
NR: For how long have you NR: Who are the people that do you have? communal house on the hoods. During massive street
had the garden? share the garden here? PL: It has to be ecological, plot next to us and then we fights it was demolished in 1980.
PL: This year there are but we can use a little would possibly have to move The events were an important
PL: I have had it for 15 years PL: Many are the same as tomatoes, onions, prize fertilizer as long as it’s but then we would definitely starting point for the Squatters
now. when the garden started. cucumbers, a bit of organic. We get some horse squat the place - haha! Movement (BZerne).

Israfil’s DEER
Pepper
Ninety-six percent (75 out
of 78) of public elementary A story by a Bostancı, Mustafa Cebir
schools in Cagayan de Oro
maintain a school garden. Deer and gazelles sometimes come to the garden and eat.
Delicious, Crunchy and Green! One day a deer had come and eaten from the garden,
This activity is pursued by but when I looked I saw trails of sheep, the neighbor
From Mustafa and Havva has sheep, but if they had come into the garden they
Cebir’s rich garden pupils as part of the school wouldn’t have left anything behind. I was thinking; this
animal that came in ate only a little, then I figured out
to your plate! curriculum and supervised by that it was a deer. It ate the beans, the ones that had
grown big.
Beware of its principals and teachers.
I got really annoyed and said “I’m going to shoot this
imitations. G. E. Potutan, W. H. Schnitzler, J. M. Arnado, L. G. Janubas and animal.” One day I was riding the tractor, all of a sudden
R. J. Holmer. “Urban agriculture in Cagayan de Oro: a favourable I see a stupid face looking at me from the woods, I had my
response of city government and NGOs”, In: Growing Cities, gun there, I was just about to shoot it and it was looking
Growing Food: Urban Agriculture on the Policy Agenda, Bakker, into my eyes and I said “Ok fine, I forgive you, go”. It
N. et al., 2001, p. 419 went running off. It never came back after that.
16 ANNEX: MIGRATING GARDENS

A NEW GARDEN IN MØSTINGS HUS Havana has 26 agricultural store


consultancies (tiendas agrícolas).
Their role is to guarantee the technical
and material viability of urban
agriculture. The shops are found
in urban areas and provide seed,
seedlings, tree saplings, bio-fertilisers,
bio-pesticides, soil conditioners and
tools such as hoes, machetes, etc.
M. Gonzalez Novo and C. Murphy. “Urban agriculture in the city
of Havana: a popular response to a crisis”, In: Growing Cities,
Growing Food: Urban Agriculture on the Policy Agenda, Bakker,
N. et al., 2001, p. 341

CREATE YOUR OWN GARDEN

A Day in Bostan
“When you start gardening, it’s addictive, the same way
cigarettes are. Your neighbor wakes up early, you wake up
early, you see him working in his garden, you want to work
Photo by Nane Skiødt on yours. That’s all I’ve seen. Watch what the neighbor is

U
doing, waking up early, what is he doing in the morning,
rban regeneration projects has been UN climate negotiations, the Danish Government tying watercress, if you have watercress you tie it too, if not
fastly occupying the city of İstanbul supports a targeted program, implemented by Danish you sit in the shade like this. Let’s say you wake up early in
in the last years and it has also been a NGOs and their international partners. The Danish the morning, at noon there’ll be areas to flatten, you’ll then
big threat concerning climate change. government approved bostan as a very important wait for it to dry, it then becomes maşula, maşula is a term
Bostancı Mehmet Ekerbiçer from İstanbul, who has tradition of İstanbul, one of its partner cities, and from the Albanians, it’s actually a karık (a flat land). It’s also
been gardening for the last 30 years near the old city decided to support this act. So Ekerbiçer was one called a pan. You plant them, water them, you spread out
walls and who inherited the bostan from his great of the bostancıs supported. After he was kicked out the maşula, you level it. Like putting make-up or polishing
grandfather, was kicked out in February 2009 from from his place, until he was given a new garden in up. The last thing you do is check the leaves, see if there are
his garden by a private company that will built a İstanbul he was invited to Copenhagen to the garden holes, if there are, you put pesticides. You put the pesticide
swimming pool on the site. He later found a possibility of Møstings Hus to spend the whole year there. He between noon and evening, depending on its affection.
to continue with this tradition, this time not in continued with his tradition and treated the garden Sometimes bugs come and eat the stuff out of season, so
İstanbul but in Copenhagen. as a bostan where a miracle of disorder around the you put pesticides. What is a woman’s work in the home,
Møstings Hus occured. The bostan has now various does it ever end? It doesn’t. She wipes the windows, cleans
To improve the possibilities for civil society in types of vegetables that previously did not exist the kitchen, cooks, washes dishes... There was a garden in
developing countries, create awareness on climate in Copenhagen and the bostan has grown in an Maltepe, he used to grow parsely, and I would envy him.
change in their own country and participate in the unexpected way. copenhagen I used to get the urge to carry the farmer on my back.”
by Mehmet Şengül, 35 years old, Topkapı, İstanbul

MINT SMELL IN THE


MIDDLE OF THE CITY
Photo by Annexpress

I
n a month’s time, a bostancı, who prefers to stay
anonymous, has built a mint garden right in the
middle of Taksim. He states that he wanted to
clean and purify the dirty city center. He adds
that before this was an area, he was afraid to go with
his family so he wanted to turn it into a “piece of
heaven”. “Mint is a versatile, useful, perennial herb
plant that grows well under many soil and weather
conditions. My mother used to say “you can’t kill
mint”, stated the bostancı.

The municipality authorities have not yet made a


statement about the future of this illegal garden.
istanbul

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