BBC GoodFood India

EAT OUT EAT AWAY
Hong Kong
on your plate
Eat like a
Balinese
In
d
ia
Pro vs Punter,
Phobidden
Fruit
Thai food
on trial
MASTERCLASS
Chef Thanabalans
step-by-step
Hainanese
chicken rice
p 110
SEPTEMBER 2013
` 100
eat ineat outeat away
8
0
+
T
R
IP
L
E
-
T
E
S
T
E
D
R
E
C
IP
E
S
Achal Aggarwals
home-style
Japanese menu
Ultimate
veggie
stir-fries
updated!
Favourite Asian recipes
S
eared sesame tofu with noodle salad p 38
KIMCHI
MISO SOUP
BNH M
PORK BUNS
BAKSO
MMMMMMAAAAAAGGGGGGZZZZZZTTTTTTEEEEEERRRRR
CCCCCOOOOOOPPPPPYYYYYY
2 BBC GoodFood SEPTEMBER 2013
ome of my all-time favourite dishes are Asian gingery dumplings,
hair-curling-hot Thai curries, silken noodle stir-fries. So when the idea of
doing an Asian food special came up in the Good Food editorial meeting, d
I greedily nodded yes. Then, as we sat brainstorming, we sensed a gap in
the understanding of Asias diverse cuisines by Indians.
From the rst Chinese-Indian dishes developed by Hakka migrants
in Kolkata to the recent arrival of ne-dining giants like Hakkasan,
Yauatcha and Megu, Asian food in India has come a long, long way.
While were thrilled to see the bar on Asian restaurants being raised in
the country, the vibrant range of home cooking across Asia is virtually
unknown in India. This issue bridges the void.
Beyond Indian Chinese As international travel explodes, a new breed
of globetrotting Indians are craving the regional Asian dishes they have
tasted on their travels. Happily, it is now possible to recreate these tastes
thanks to the ingredient revolution fuelled by gourmet retail chains in India. Want a change
from MSG-marred hakka noodles? Youll be spoilt for choice with our line-up: Korean
kimchi, steamed pork buns, Balinese bakso, Hainanese chicken rice, Kung po prawns. Try
them all.
Work that wok Stir-frying is the art of cooking quickly yet precisely over a high ame,
incrementally building depth of avour as ingredients are added to the wok. Our meat-free
versions this month allow the true character of vegetables to shine, resulting
in creations far greater than the sum of their parts. The Kale, Mushroom and
Cashew stir-fry is a study in simple complexity. I love how the deep umami
avours of the mushrooms are released as they engage with hot oil. Try this
and all our one-wok wonders. A word of advice a good cast-iron wok is the
foundation of a stir-fry. Ditch the kadhai.
A taste of VietnamTheres a lot to love (and eat) in Vietnam. I visited last
December and was oored by the clean, fresh accents of this cuisine. For me,
a big part of the magic of Vietnamese food is the staggering variety of herbs
used. We bring you ve beloved classics including the iconic bnh m from
Saigon and nem thinh, Vietnams roasted rice our rolls. Adapted from author Tracey Listers
wonderful books, each dish is a magical marriage of sweet, sour, bitter, salty and spicy that
typies Vietnamese cooking. A caveat about the bnh m : its addictive.
Home-style Japanese If youve never tried Japanese, nows the time to start. The uber
talented Chef Achal Aggarwal, who trained in Japan, demysties the cuisine by guiding you
how to make an authentic homey gohan in your kitchen. As you will see, there is so much n
more to Japan than sushi and tempura. The melt-in-the-mouth shogayaki leaves me weak-
kneed, but it is miso soup I turn to for deep comfort.
I know that Asian dishes, with their unfamiliar vegetables, sauces and condiments can seem
intimidating. Where will you nd those rice noodles, that koshihikari rice, the spicy chilli oil?
Rest assured that while developing our recipes, we have only chosen those ingredients that
can be bought in the supermarket or at gourmet stores (see p 117).
Enjoy this delicious mix, an expression of our deep cravings and love for the brilliant
avours of Asia.
Sona Bahadur, editor
eat in
weekend
GOOD
FOOD
STAR
RECIPE
eat in eat in n
entertaini rta e ng Miso soup Miso soup
Serves 6 6 30 minutes minutes utes EASY
Packed with uma cked with uma d with um mi, the miso so mi, the miso so the uup is p u
a staple found a staple found a staple found on nearly e on nearly e on near very dinn very dinner table in Jap table in Japan. le in Japa Traditionally Traditionally Traditio consist onsisting of a stock call sto ed dashi dd into which miso nto which miso nto which paste is mixed, paste is mixed, ixed, the other the other the other ingredients ingre ingredients in rrr
the soup va the soup vary d oup va epending on sea pending on pending on s sonal al produce an produce and personal pr onal pre al p ferences. rences.
water w 300ml ml
kombu (edi (edible seaweed) ed) 3 small pieces, 3 small pieces,
used for the st t sed for the stock oc ock
bonito flakes ( bonito flakes ( bonito flakes (dr dried fish) dr a handfu a ha andful wakame (edible wakame (edible se seaweed) 6-9 6-9 pieces 6-9 pieces white miso paste 3 tsp 3 tsp
shiitake shiitake mushroom 3, rehydrated 3, rehydrat 3, rehydrated and an a diced
silken tofu 15-18, diced ced
spring onions a handful, chop handfu ped
Make the stock stock (dashi) by mi (dashi) by mxing the xing the water and kombu an in a pan and n an bring to ring to a boil. Remove Remo the kombu and a u a dd d
bonito bonito akes. Let akes. Let it rest for 2-3 minutt es es.
Mea eanwhile soak nwhile soaa the dried w he dried wakam akame ee in water. Strai in water. Strai Stra n water. Strai ain the stock n th n the stock and n the dissolv solv solve e the miso paste the miso paste past the miso paste in it. Add the in it. Add the t. Add dic diced dd
mushrooms and mushrooms and c mushrooms and c ms a ook on a low ook on a low ook on a l ame ame e
for 2-3 minutes r 2-3 for 2-3 minutes nutes more. Do more. Do not more. Do not boil the boil the soup. sou up.
Pour the soup i Pour the soup i Pour the soup i oup n serving bo n serving n serving bowls, an ls, and add the tofu, s d the tofu, d t soak aked wa ed wak ed wakame and e and
chopped spring opped sprin o ng oni onions. Serve ons. Serve ons. Se piping piping hot. tt.
PER SERVING 33 kcals, protein
2.46g, carbs 5.62g, fat 0.68g, sat fat 0.09g, fibre 0.16g, salt 0.1g
So
h
d
I
t
F
wok the talk
BAGUETTE LOVE
I love the bnh m's
crackly crust and
brilliantly intense
flling. P 54
THAI SPY
We put top Tai
retaurants in
India through
their pace. P 78
SOUPER BOWL
Hungry for
comfort? Reach for
a soulful bowl o
miso soup. P 69
Stir-frie Stir-fries make the tast st st stiest presto iest presto iest iest est st me meaals. als. als. Al ls. All you s. All you a need is ed is a b is a b dis urst ooff st o rs
heat and fei heat and fei heat and fei heat a y veggies sty v sty ty ve y vegg sty v
wo ww kkkkkk st st tttar ar ar r ar ar ar ar ar aaar ar rsssssssssssss
R e c i p e J A N E H O R N B Y P h o t o g r a p h G A
o g r a p h
h o t o
R E T H M O R G A N S
H
ck bean soba ean soba n Black bean s B oodles
with th m h mushrooms and
cab bbage ca (recipe on p 64)
eat in ea
dern veggie mod
Kale, mushro mush s r om and nd om
cashew stir- ew stir e fry
Serves 2 2 inutes 30 mi EASY
A few key spices ca key spices c ke an turn a n a hear a n ty
winter green into a winter green into a in ter g ll Asian-inspire A ight, A d
dinner. er. din
groundnut oil 1 tbs bsp bs
ginger a small chunk, shre unk, sh a small chunk, sh dded
red chilli red chi red chi illi nely sh 1, nely shredd 1, nely s lyy shredded eed ed
shiitake mushrooms 150g, stalks
discarded a carded and sliced c
kale kale or or spinach spinach 0g (Try Trikaya 200g (T
available at gourme ble at gourmet stores t stores))
green peas green peas 100g po 100g, podded
ccashewnuts a handful
soy sauce so 2 tbsp (try Kikkom 2 tbsp ( an
available at gourm available at gourme le t sttoores) mixed with xed
1 tsp Chinese five-spice se five hinese five-spice powder (try
vailable Dynasty available a ast le t gourmet stores met st )
sesame oil 1 t 1 tsp (try Blue Dra ue Dra t gon
available at gourmet sto tores)
Heat the oil in a wok or kadhai. Add Ad
the ginger, chilli, g mushrooms, kalle and e
peas, then cook for , the pea 2 minutes. Add the s. Add the e
cashewnuts and cookk hewnuts and coo cashewnuts and cook oo ashe for fo for ano another ther
2 minutes, then tip in the soy sauce and a
ve-spice. Cook for a minute or so, then
toss with sesame oil and serve. d se
12.9g, carbs 16.5g, fat 16.1g, sat fat 2.3g,
fibre 6.2g, salt 3.27g
c i p e J A N I N E R A T C L I F F E P h
R e c i p e J A N I N E R A T C L I F F E P h
R e c i p e J A N I N E R A T C L I F F E P
R e c i p e J A
o g r a p h G A R E T H M O R G A N S
o t oo t o g r a p h G A R E T H M O R G A N S
o t o g r a p h G A R E T H M O R G A
r a p
S t y l i n g J E N N Y I G G L E D E N F o o d s t y l i n
y l i n g J E N N Y I G G L E D E N F o o d s t y
y
g S O N J A E D R I D G E
g
STIR IT UP!
Tee tender-crisp
vegie stir-fie
build favour step
by step. P 44
When Koh opened its doors in 2010,
it replaced Czar Bar, the baroque-
style vodka bar in the Intercontinental
Hotel. Thankfully, the designers of
the modern Thai restaurant helmed
by chef Ian Kittichai did away with its
heavy velvet curtains and enormous
chandeliers and infused the new
space with a levity that is in keeping
with the philosophy of the food. The
kitsch-free dcor underplays the Thai
theme, with minimalist elements such
as a single white orchid on every table,
gold statuettes discreetly placed in wall
niches and a framed Thai quote on
dining that lends character to the space.
Its clear from the menu that Koh
ofers a contemporary take on Thai
cuisine, not a faithful rendition of
the classics. The menu is a tapestry
of strands drawn from all over
Southeast Asia: Vietnamese pho
sits besides Cantonese yum cha and a
Japanese sashimi. While such a liberal
interpretation of cuisines is usually
fraught with risk, it is carried out with
panache at Koh.
Presented in a heated stone bowl
thats big enough for a family of
four to share, the Hot Stone Roasted
Garlic Rice reminds us of the Japanese
donburi. A burnt garlic sauce is added
to the already fragrant rice at the
table, elevating it to sublime. Assertive
enough to hold its own when paired
with strongly avoured curries yet
mellow enough to play a supporting
role, this dish is one of our picks of
the evening. The yellow Paneang
Curry with Chicken is a sleeper hit.
Made of a balanced blend of herbs
and spices which includes the usual
Thai superstars such as galangal,
lemongrass, kafr lime, chilli and
shrimp paste it is rich with coconut
cream yet not too heavy. We relish
Thai food for its classic combination of
sour, spicy and sweet avours. When
you rst take a bite of the Poached
Fillet of Vietnamese Sea Perch with
a chilli, lime and cilantro dressing,
the juicy and yielding white esh
seems to check all these boxes. But
KOH, Mumbai
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Chief Executive Officer Tarun Rai
Editor Sona Bahadur
Assistant Editor Amrita Gupta
Features Editor Vidya Balachander
Senior Features Writer Priyanka Hosangadi
Junior Copy Editor Khorshed Deboo
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Contents
eat in eat out
Inspiring, seasonal recipes that
work every time
Restaurants on trial and cafs
with character
30 7 MEALS FOR ` 700 `
A weeks worth of sumptuous
meals
37 LUNCHBOX
Light and healthy salad
recipes
38 READY IN 30
Meals ready in a jify
44 MODERN VEGGIE
Snappy veggie stir-fries
50 WEEKEND
Classic Vietnamese faves
58 WEEKEND
Chinese meals in a cinch
66 ENTERTAINING
Cook up a Japanese feast
78 RESTAURANT SPY
Thai restaurants on trial
88 PRO VS PUNTER
Phobidden Fruit, Bengaluru
90 OFF THE EATEN
TRACK
Punes Thai House
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49
PRO vs PUNTER
Feel like the average diner
doesnt always agree with
professional reviews?
Become our punter in the
Pro vs Punter section and
review a restaurant
along with a seasoned pro.
To apply, write to us at
bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in.
MAKE
OUR
COVER
RECIPE!! R
Seared sesame tofu
with noodle salad
Serves 2 30 minutes EASY
firm tofu 400g (try Mori-Nu
available at gourmet stores)
sesame seeds 1 tbsp
red chilli 1, deseeded and chopped
soy sauce 2 tbsp (try Kikkoman
caster sugar 2 tbsp (try Tate & Lyle
rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp (try
Clearspring available at gourmet
stores)
noodles 200g
sesame oil 1 tbsp (try Lee Kum Kee
spring onions 4, nely chopped
Wrap the tofu in heavy layers of
kitchen paper, then press gently to
remove as much excess water
as possible. Repeat a couple of
times. Slice the tofu halfway,
horizontally into 2 at pieces.
Sprinkle with the sesame seeds.
Mix the chilli with soy sauce,
sugar, vinegar and 1 tbsp of water.
Cook the noodles in salted boiling
water until al dente and drain.
Heat a frying pan with the
sesame oil until very hot. Sear the
tofu for about 2 minutes on each
side or until golden and crisp.
Put the noodles on two plates,
top with the tofu and pour the
dressing over both. Finish with
chopped spring onions.
PER SERVING 427 kcals,
protein 20.5g, carbs 52.5g, fat
16.5g, sat fat 2.5g, fibre 2.2g,
salt 4.16g
84
MAGZTER
COPY
BBC GoodFood 5 SEPTEMBER 2013
64
September 2013
eat away
Foodie holiday ideas and
recipes from around the world
94 EAT LIKE A LOCAL:
BALI
A menu of dishes from the
Indonesian province
99 BUDGET AND
BLOWOUT: MADRID
Save and splurge in the
Spanish capital
100 CITY ON THE PLATE:
HONG KONG
An insiders guide to the New
York of the East
105 BATTLE OVER
LAKSA
Karen Anand on Singapores
laksa wars
109 COOK LIKE A PRO
Cast iron hot plate
110 MASTERCLASS
Step-by-step Hainanese
chicken rice
114 DO IT YOURSELF
Make your own Asian
dipping sauces
115 WINE GUIDE
Pair wines with Oriental food
118 SHOWSTOPPER
Master the perfect steamed
pork buns
masterclass
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rst bite
16 ON TEST
Thai red curry pastes
17 BARGAIN HUNTER
Best-value foodie events,
meals and deals
18 NEED TO KNOW
Bamboo shoot
20 FOOD ISSUE
BBC Good Food investigates
rice
24 THE HEALTHY
INGREDIENT
Sweet potato
26 NIGHT OUT
Ambrosial lychee cocktails
28 WHATS ON
The months best food TV
25 SUBSCRIBE to
Good Food India
JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH
Out & about
Bengaluru
6 OVER TO YOU
Reader recipes, comments
and letters
11 FIRST BITE
Kimchi is the pickle du jour
13 NEWS, TRENDS AND
SHOPPING
New restaurants, trends we
like and more
Minced soy pork with rice noodles
101
New Delhi
Mumbai
Singapore
Chennai
Vietnam
Madrid
Bali
Hong Kong
Jammu
China
Japan
Over to you
For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you,
our readers, to keep us in the know
We love hearing from you. Email us your feedback,
your favourite recipes and your comments at
bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in. Lets be in touch!
Write to us!
Good Food reader Rajesh Dhar shares his
favourite eateries in Jammu
BREAKFAST Located in Gandhi Nagar,
Pahalwan Di Hatti (+91 191 243 3120) is a
nondescript joint that
is a local favourite. Try the chana
bhatura and wash it down with
a glass of lassi. The Raj Kachori
is a popular snack here. Make
sure to carry home some kalari
dense, locally produced cheese
made from cows milk, fried in its
own fat and eaten with salt or masala.
Meal for two ` 350.
LUNCH Head to Ganapati Food Junction (+91 191
243 2569) in Gandhi Nagar for a wholesome thali. Ask for
the Bhaderwahi Rajma, accompanied by fresh, seasonal
vegetables and homemade pickles. Meal for two ` 600.
DINNER Fortune Inn Riviera (+0191 256 1415) at
Gulab Singh Marg is renowned for its Zafrani Subz Shorba,
prepared using saffron sourced from the adjacent valley.
Sample the hearty Gucchi Biryani for ` 275 and Nadroo
Yakhni (lotus stem cooked in a yoghurt gravy) for ` 250.
Try the Dhooni Khatti Sabzi, an authentic dish of the Dogri
community priced at ` 250. Meal for two ` 1,050.
FOOD NATION Jammu
HOW YOU PIMPED IT
I used most of the original bnh m
ingredients but left out the tofu and
cucumber. I preferred to steam the sh
lightly before preparing the patties. I also
chose to shallow-fry the patties. For the
dipping sauce, I added nely chopped green
chillies and red chilli powder for extra spice, and less sugar.
Amrita Mukherjee is a Mumbai-based corporate
communications professional who is always keen to
experiment with healthy substitutes in her cooking.
Errata: In the August issue of BBC Good Food India, in Fatima Da
Silva Gracias home-style Goan Christian menu, the dish Ambtok
was misspelled as Ambotik. In the same feature, the Caldo Verde
recipe also incorrectly listed Goan sausage as an ingredient, in-
stead of chourico, or Portuguese sausage. In addition, the recipe
for Kingsh Balchao mentioned kismoor as a substitute for
galmo, however, the correct replacement is dry prawn powder.
The errors are regretted.
Bnh mi ch c
Serves 6 40 minutes + refrigerating
EASY
rawas, snapper or any white fish 600g,
de-skinned, deboned and cut into chunks
garlic cloves 2, chopped
fish sauce 1 tbsp (try Ayam available at
gourmet stores)
sugar 1/2 tsp
salt 1/3 tsp
black pepper 1/2 tsp, freshly ground
spring onion bulbs 3, thinly sliced
oil 400ml + 1 tsp extra for greasing
baguettes 6 small (available at speciality
bakeries)
mayonnaise 3 tbsp
iceberg lettuce 1, leaves separated
cucumber 1, sliced
tofu 120g, sliced into 2cm chunks
(optional)
coriander a handful
red chilli 1, sliced
soy sauce 1 1/2 tbsp (try Kikkoman
CLASSIC DIPPING SAUCE
gourmet stores)
lime juice 100ml
rice wine vinegar 1 tsp (try Blue Dragon
sugar 1/2 cup
garlic cloves 2, nely chopped
red chilli 1, nely chopped
To make the dipping sauce, combine
the sh sauce, lime juice, rice wine
vinegar and sugar in a small bowl.
Stir until the sugar has completely
dissolved. Add the garlic and chilli and
keep aside.
Mince the sh and garlic in a food
processor or chop very nely with a
cleaver. Add the sh sauce, sugar, salt,
pepper and spring onions and mix.
Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Using lightly oiled ngers, form the
sh mixture into 12 patties. Heat the oil
in a deep frying pan and deep-fry the
patties for 4-5 minutes or until they are
golden and cooked through. Drain well
on paper napkins.
Preheat the oven to 180C. Heat the
baguettes for 1 minute, then cut into
half, lengthways, and remove some of
the soft centre. Spread the mayonnaise
and top with lettuce leaves, cucumber,
tofu (if using), sh patties, coriander
and chilli. Drizzle with soy sauce and
serve with the dipping sauce.
PER SERVING 737.5 kcals, protein
36.83g, carbs 75.72g, fat 31.38g, sat fat
2.33g, bre 1.51g, salt 1.2g
GOOD
FOOD
STAR
RECIPE
READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH
Which Asian
dish do you
love to make
at home?
55.5%
18.5%
Fried rice Thai ai ai ai i a cccur urryy ry ry ryyyyy Hot and sour soup
%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
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contains an array of products from DCPLs Leonardo
brand, such as extra virgin olive oil, olive pomace oil, whole
wheat pasta, premium pasta, premium pickle in olive oil,
pimento stuffed olives, black sliced olives and two recipe
booklets.
Good Food reader d
Aarthi Satheesh
shares her favourite
recipe.
Apple loaf cake
Makes 10 slices 1 hour 10 minutes +
cooling EASY
flour 180g + extra for dusting r
butter 100g, melted r
egg 1, beaten
sugar 200g r
vanilla essence 1 tsp
yoghurt 80ml
baking soda 1/2 tsp
cinnamon powder 1 tsp r
baking powder 1/2 tsp r
apples 1 1/2 cups, peeled and grated
Preheat the oven to 170C. Grease a
loaf tin and dust well with our.
Place the melted butter in a bowl. Add
the egg, sugar and vanilla essence and
mix well. Add the yoghurt and stir. Now
sift in the our, baking soda, cinnamon
powder and baking powder and mix
until combined. Add in grated apples
and fold to mix.
Pour the mixture into the tin and
bake for 50 minutes. A toothpick
inserted should come out clean.
Let the cake cool in the tin for
30 minutes. Invert onto a plate, slice
and serve.
SSSSu Su SS shiiiii SSSS hi
over to you
readers write
In this issue
ACHAL AGGARWAL
Achal Aggarwal is a Master Chef specialising in Japanese
cuisine at T.Ks Oriental Grill in the Hyatt Regency, Delhi. He
holds a degree in hotel management from the Institute of
Hotel Management, Catering Technology and Applied Nutrition
in Meerut, and earned his stripes working at The Trident in
Gurgaon and Wasabi by Morimoto in Delhi. Aggarwal was the
executive sous chef at Megu in the Leela Palace, Delhi, and
won accolades for his picture-perfect plates. He shows you
how to rustle up a simple, home-style Japanese meal for family
and friends in Entertaining on p 66.
HARRY CHENG
rry Cheng is a Singapore-based entrepreneur and freelance
od writer. He is the force behind business ventures such
La Ditta, Been There Done That and Cool Japan Festival,
of which promote Japanese culture. Cheng is also the
oprietor of Maidoindia and Sushi and More in Mumbai, and
e restaurant Umaide in central Tokyo. He takes you on a tour
of the Balinese foodscape in Eat Like a Local on p 94.

THANABALAN
Chef Thanabalan, a visiting chef at JW Marriott Mumbai,
joined the Singapore Marriott Hotel as sous chef in 2009.
He brings with him over 21 years of experience and was
instrumental in devising the menu for the pre-opening of
the St Regis Hotel and Intercontinental Hotel in Singapore.
Thanabalan guides you step-by-step how to make Hainanes
chicken rice with green chilli sauce, in Masterclass on p 110.
NEETI MEHRA
Neeti Mehra is a Mumbai-based writer
and photographer. She considers
writing her rst love and gastronomy
a close second. Besides BBCGood
Food India, her work has been featured
in Lonely Planet, Grazia, The Asian
Age, Hindustan Times and The Hindu,
among other publications. When she
isnt eating or writing, Mehra dabbles
in designing quirky stationery. In this
issue, she offers shoestring as well
as posh eating options in Madrid in
Budget and Blowout on p 99.
NANDITA IYER
Nandita Iyer is a Bengaluru-based
food writer and columnist. A qualied
doctor, she has a passion for cooking
with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Iyers
interest in preserving the traditional
avours of her Tamil Brahmin heritage
is evident in her blog, Saffron Trail
(saffrontrail.blogspot.in). Recently, shes
begun growing most of the produce
her family eats in their organic terrace
garden. She explores why rice is at the
centre of a nutritional debate in Good
Food Investigates on p 20.
first bite
Wevealways lovedthis crunchyKoreanrelishwithapassion. Now
its officiallybeinghailedas thesexiest pickleof 2013!
rst bite
news, trends, shopping
PICKLED PUCKER
Kimchi is to Koreans what
sauerkraut is to Germans. Made
with pickled vegetables, and at
times, seafood, it is a staple side in
every Korean meal. It is traditionally
seasoned, brined and fermented
for a fewdays. Asmidgen of kimchi
adds a burst of colour to soups,
imparts a fiery bite to dumplings
and rice paper rolls, and makes
for a robust filling in a savoury
pancake. It can very happily be
eaten on its own, straight from
the bowl. We love howdelightful
kimchi is you can use virtually
any vegetable to make it. Turn the
page to master different versions
of kimchi.
Kimchi hour
RecipesGUNG- THEPALACE, NEWDELHI PhotographsJOYMANAVATH
Radish kimchi
Mixed cabbage
kimchi
Water kimchi
JJJAAAPPPPPAAAANNNNNNNN
on nyyou oo r pl pl pl lat at at at at ateeeeeeeee
JAAPAAAAANNNNNN AAN
This authentic home-st ic hom yle menu ce c e lebrates th ebrates th e e exquisite exquisite exquis exquisite uisite xquisite sitee
simplicity simplicit of Japanese Japane cuisineee
RecipesACHALAGG RecipesACHALAGGARWALPhotog ARWALPhotographsASHISHCHAWLAPr LAP opscourtesyTHE opscourtesyTHE THE y SHOP SHO HOOP OP HO
andFABINDIALoca NDIALocationcourtesyM tioncourtesyMEG te U, THELEELAPALA E CE, NEWDELHI CE, NEWDELHI H
Atraditional Jap Atraditional Jap J anese meal anese meal a anese meal me
ockwise fromto clockwise fromto ck p: p: Shogayak Sho ki ak (recipe (recipe recipe rec
on on p 9 p 9 91); Nimono Nimono m (recipe on (recipe on e p 91 p 91 p 91 p )))); ; ) Misso Miso
soup up pe on (recipe on p 87 87); ); ; seaweed, c seaweed, c eed, carrot eed, carrot seaweed, c eed, carrot
and edamame salad and edamame salad ad; sticky rice sticky rice sticky rice rice ky r e
Dimsumeateriesandfine-diningrestaurantsfindequal favour in
hyper-modernHongKong, emergingasoneof thegourmet capitals
of theworld
WordsKARENANAND
City on the plate y p
Hong Kong
EATDRINKSTAYSHOP
T
o most of us, Hong Kong
is a bustling business
metropolis we visit to
shop and to eat. Few
people care to scratch the surface
of this port city, which has achieved
economic success on the world stage
despite being occupied by a succession
of countries. Hong Kong may mean
fragrant harbour but you would be
hard-pressed to nd any romanticism
here, except for little glimpses on
occasions like the Chinese lantern
festival, which marks the last day of the
lunar NewYear. Usually celebrated in
early February, this is a truly delightful
time, when restaurants and roads are lit
up with lanterns of all shapes and sizes.
The word hong also refers to the
citys major trading houses, which
prospered fromtheir trade with China.
Fromthe late 19th Century right up
to the SecondWorldWar, Hong Kong
lived in the shadow of Shanghai, which
was emerging as Asias nancial capital.
But the open door international trade
policy of Deng Xiaoping, who took
control of China after Mao Zedongs
death in 1976, revived Hong Kongs
role as the gateway to the mainland
and it boomed.The boomwas also
motivated by the drive to rake in as
much prot as possible before the
city was returned to China in 1997,
marking the end of 156 years of British
colonial rule.
The only visible diference after
the handover, apart fromever-taller
skyscrapers and the constantly
narrowing gap between Kowloon and
Hong Kong Island, is that Mandarin
is now spoken by a larger number
of people (Cantonese is the default
tongue of Hong Kong).There is also
a clear rift between locals and those
fromthe mainland, who are considered
a bit rough around the edges. But its
evident that even changing hands from
one country to another has not come
in the way of Hong Kongs staggering
success.
EAT
Branches of dimsumeatery DinTai
Fung (dintaifung.com.hk) have sprung
up all over the world now, but it began
inTaiwan mainly serving xiao long bao,
or small, steamed buns with a hot soup
and pork stufng. The NewYorkTimes
has named the restaurant one of the top
10 gourmet restaurants in the world.
I wouldnt go quite that far. However,
both the Hong Kong branches, at Tsim
ShaTsui and Causeway Bay, were
recently awarded one Michelin star.
What I love about this restaurant is the
Left, fromtop:
Steamed dim
sumis a classic
favourite in
Hong Kong;
Cantonese
wanton noodles
make for a
hearty meal;
Marinated
meat for sale
at a local shop.
Facing page:
Avendor sells
skewered meat
Photograph courtesy HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD
Photograph courtesy HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD
Photograph ANEESH BHASIN
Hainanese chicken rice
with green chilli sauce
Serves 41 hour 30minutes +
poaching and resting
ALITTLE EFFORT
THE CHICKEN
water 5l r
garlic cloves 50g, crushed
ginger 50g, crushed r
shallots 50g, quartered
whole turmeric 25g, crushed
galangal 25g
lemongrass 35g
pandan leaf 1
chicken 2 whole with skin on, 800g
each
THE RICE
oil 2 tbsp
chicken fat 50-100g, taken fromthe
whole chicken
ginger 50g, crushed r
lemongrass 40g
galangal 25g
kaffir lime leaves 25g
chives 25g
butter 75g r
pandan leaf 1
Thai rice 2kg
THE GREEN CHILLI SAUCE
garlic cloves 10g
ginger 10g r
green chillies 30g large, chopped
sesame oil 35ml (try Blue Dragon
lemon juice 1 tbsp
sugar a pinch
CHEFTHANABALANS
Masterclass
Chef Thanabalan, SousChef, SingaporeMarriott Hotel, showsyouhowtomakethe
countrysfamednational dish Hainanesechickenrice
RecipeCHEFTHANABALANPhotographsRITAMBANERJEEE
EXCLUSIVE
STEP-BY-STEP
RECIPE
Get to know us
Our five easy-to-navigate sections enable you to find exactly what you are looking for.
Heres what you can expect to see in every issue of Good Food India:
First Bite
Our opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages that follow.
First Bite brings you the months freshest food buzz new launches,
events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and
more. We spotlight local produce in season in Need To Know. And our
Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important food issues to
bring you insights that really matter to you. P 11
Eat In
The largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes
with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe is
triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. Weve
got everything covered from easy everyday dinners and show-off menus
for the weekend to modern veggie dishes and kid-friendly recipes bursting
with flavours. P 29
rst bite
Mixed cabbage kimchi
Makes 2kg 30minutes + marinating
and fermenting EASY
Cut the root of 1kg cabbage halfway
and then split the leaves with your
hands. The cabbage can be diced or left
as it is. Cut 700g carrots and radish
into batons and quarter 300g onions.
Separate each layer of the onion.
Sprinkle 1 cup coarse salt between the
vegetables. Place the mixed vegetables
in a large container and pour enough
water to cover themfully. Taste the
water to make sure it is really salty,
otherwise add more salt. Leave the
cabbage immersed in the salted water
for 6hours. Rinse twice, then let it drain
for 2 hours.
Meanwhile, prepare the kimchi lling
by mixing 1/4 cup chilli sauce, 50g
shrimp sauce or anchovies, 2 tbsp
sugar, 2 tbsp chopped ginger, 8tbsp
chopped garlic cloves and 2 pured
pears together.
Once the cabbage is well drained,
mix it with the kimchi lling and
sprinkle 4 tbsp sesame seeds over it.
The kimchi can be eaten unfermented,
immediately, or after 2-3 days. Use it in
stews or pancakes.
Radish kimchi
and fermenting EASY
Peel and cut 2kg radish into thin
strips, approximately 0.2-0.5cmwide.
Mix the radish with 1 cup coarse salt
and place in a container. Pour enough
water to cover it fully. Soak the radish
in the salted water for 30minutes,
rinse and drain well.
sugar, 2 tbsp chopped ginger, 8tbsp
pears together.
Once the radish is well drained, mix it
with the kimchi lling and sprinkle
4 tbsp sesame seeds over it. Cover
and refrigerate, allowing it to ferment
for 2-3 days.
SHELF PRESERVATION
Get atasteof Koreas most lovedfoodexport withtheseperkypickles that spell instant wow!
Leek kimchi
and fermenting EASY
Peel and cut 2kg leeks into thin strips,
approximately 0.2-0.5cmwide. Mix the
leeks with 1 cup coarse salt and place
in a container. Pour enough water into
the container to cover the leeks fully. Let
themsoak in the salted water for
30minutes. Rinse and drain well.
shrimp sauce, 2 tbsp sugar, 2 tbsp
chopped ginger, 8tbsp chopped garlic
cloves and 2 pured pears together.
Once the leeks are well drained, mix
themwith the kimchi lling and sprinkle
4 tbsp sesame seeds. Cover and
refrigerate, allowing it to ferment for 2-3
days.
Water kimchi
Makes 2kg 30 minutes +
marinating and fermenting EASY
hands. The cabbage can be diced or
left as it is. Sprinkle 1 cup coarse salt
between the leaves. Place the cabbage
water to cover it fully. Taste the water to
make sure it is really salty, otherwise add
more salt. Leave the cabbage immersed
in the salted water for 6hours. Rinse
twice, then drain for 2 hours.
Meanwhile, prepare the kimchi
lling by mixing 50g shrimp sauce
or anchovies, 2 tbsp sugar, 2 tbsp
chopped ginger, 8tbsp chopped garlic
Once the cabbage is well drained, mix
it with the kimchi lling and sprinkle
4 tbsp sesame seeds over it. The
kimchi can be eaten unfermented,
stews or pancakes. Leek kimchi
Make the
kimchi ahead. It stays
good to eat for months in
the refrigerator. If you prefer
a milder taste, consume
within 5-6days. For a more
intense avour, use the
kimchi after a couple
of weeks.
eat away
hong kong
simple description of each dish on the
menu, in three languages including
English, accompanied by photographs.
Language can be quite a challenge in
local restaurants in Hong Kong, so
this comes handy. DimTai Fung is
also extremely hygienic, and youll nd
people wearing surgical masks making
dimsumin a sterile, glass-fronted
kitchen when you enter.The dishes
to try here include the xiao long bao
stufed with steamed crab roe and pork,
string beans with minced pork, spicy
vegetable and pork wontons, sauted
Chinese kale and the spiced bamboo
shoot and shrimp noodles.The variety
of fried rice and noodles is stunning.
They also have icons to clearly indicate
spicy dishes, various protein groups
and vegetarian options (although there
are only a few of these). A meal for two
would cost approximately 300 HK$.
Be prepared to queue up if you have
not booked a table.
TimHoWan (timhowan.com)
might look like one of the many
nondescript dimsumshops that dot
Hong Kong, but the bustling crowd
outside gives it away. It is regarded as
the worlds cheapest restaurant to be
awarded a Michelin star. As in most
other establishments here, you pick the
dimsumof your choice by looking at
the photos on the menu. A must try
is the char siu bau or barbecued pork
buns. Slightly crusty and topped with
ne powdered sugar that melds with
the sweet and salty meat inside, this
char siu bau is truly sublime. A meal for
two costs approximately 200 HK$.
Lucys (+852 2813 9055) is
located in the middle of lively Stanley
Market, a tourist haven in Hong Kong
Island. Once quite a hideaway, it is
now every expats Mecca for caf-style
comfort food.This brightly painted
Mediterranean-style eatery was started
by an English woman called Lucy in
the mid-90s.While all their dishes are
good, the desserts are outstanding. In
particular, the pecan pudding with
tofee creamsauce (much like the
famous English sticky tofee pudding),
is divine.The food is not cheap but the
experience is certainly worth it.Two
master masterclass
chef skills
eat in eat in eat in eat in eat in
entertaining
Eat Out
This section stands out for its uniquely positioned restaurant reviews
and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach
to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India
reader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. In On
The Eaten Track, we revisit a classic cafe or restaurant and walk you through
its heritage. P 77
Eat Away
Our seasoned travel journalists and food experts arm you with insider
information and recipes from the worlds most exciting food destinations.
Eat Like A Local brings easy, authentic menus from around the world
while Budget and Blowout shows you how to get your wallets worth when
travelling. And City on the Plate features the insiders food guide to an Indian
or international city. P 93
Masterclass
Learn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lessons
directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make restaurant-
perfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through
illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen
gadgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is
perfect for wine lovers. P 109
Does your average diner agree with what the restaurant professionals think? Good Food reader d
Reethika Singh and food writer Sumana Mukherjee reviewPhobidden Fruit in Bengaluru and
come away with surprisingly similar reactions
vs
PHOBIDDEN FRUIT
The quirkily named Phobidden Fruit is a
charming dining establishment that specialises
in Vietnamese cuisine. The cosy, split-level eatery
serves starters such as Vietnamese Chicken
Wings, Mekong Momos and an array of spring
rolls wrapped in rice paper. The menu features
inventive pandan and jasmine iced teas, along
with classic delicacies that include the wholesome
Pho, Banh Mi with a choice of meat or pickled
vegetables, Saigon noodles, Jungle Fish Curry
and Che, a sweet concoction of coconut milk,
mung beans and jelly. The restaurant also offers
experimental desserts such as Lemongrass Ice
Creamand Mung Bean Pudding.
Phobidden Fruit, 965, 12th Main, HAL 2nd
Stage, Indiranagar, Bengaluru - 560071.
Tel: + 91 8041255175. Daily noon 3.30pm,
7 pm 11 pm. Average spend for two: ` 1,500. `
Pushy table turning? No ?
Regular water offered? Yes ?
Veggie options? Areasonable selection
THE PRO
Sumana Mukherjee is
a food writer, restaurant
critic and columnist. She
is best known for her
in-depth reportage of
critical food issues.
THE SERVICE
Largely pleasant and
non-intrusive, if not
particularly interested.
Our server answers
our questions politely,
but does not offer any
suggestions or enquire
when we did not nish
our dishes. Our orders are
delivered promptly and
piping hot noteworthy
because the kitchen is
located at the lower level
and it is a cold night. But
the waiter who transports
plated food fromthe
kitchen makes enough
of a racket to bring
conversations to a halt.
FIRST S IMPR PP ESSI SS ON II S NN
Casual, laidback, welcoming this
place is just right for Bengalurus
easygoing eating-out culture.
Laidback can slip into lazy though:
we ask for a table for two in an
empty restaurant (they dont take
reservations, so we arrive at
8.30pmfor dinner), are told sure
and then left staring into space, till
I ask if we should take the spiral
staircase to the upper level, only to
be told again, sure. The lighting
may be too muted for some but
the semi-al fresco space makes
the most of Bengalurus superb
weather, strategically placed
potted plants ensure a degree of
privacy and the low-volume music
encourages conversation.
This quaint eatery is easy to
miss on the bustling 12th Main in
Indiranagar. Tucked away in what
once was a garage, it doesnt
boast an authentic Vietnamese
ambience. The dcor is modest
and the seating comfortable. A
touch of greenery and candlelight
(at night) lend a charming and
relaxed feel. After two-and-a-
half years of busy existence, the
interiors could do with a coat of
paint and polish.
Service is a bit lackluster
and the wait between
courses is longer than
necessary. The waiters
bear a casual attitude
and (since we are seated
close to the billing section)
we are subjected to the
constant banter between
the manager and her staff.
THE RESTAURANT
THEPU PP NTER
Reethika Singh is a
home baker with a ne
arts and journalism
degree. After a stint as a
graphic designer she now
runs her own business
called Cupcakeree. Her
other interests include
art, reading and travel.
Photographs KUNAL CHANDRA
THE FOOD
It ranges fromgood to very good. My never-fail picks are the Viet Spare Ribs,
sweet, sticky pork ribs that beg the use of ngers, and Summer Rolls, cold rice-
paper rolls stuffed with greens and chicken or prawn, and served with a sauce
so delicious it makes me wish double-dipping was kosher. In warmer weather, I
like the Green Papaya Salad or the steamed Can Tho Clams.
With the wind blowing cold and damp though, one main course is a no-
brainer: the Beef Pho, a giant bowl of broth with at rice noodles and thin
slices of beef (veg, seafood and chicken options are also available). It contains
warming notes of cinnamon and star anise, but I nd my soup to be slightly
under-seasoned, notwithstanding the accompanying hoisin and sriracha
sauces. We also try the Jungle Fish Curry where does one have basa if not
at a Vietnamese restaurant? and discover a thin, avoursome curry thats
a world away fromthe coconut milk-heavy curries associated with the region.
Both display a temperate use of spices thats rare in mid-market restaurants.
With desserts rarely a focus area in Southeast Asian cuisines, restaurants
showcasing this part of the world seldomscore with sweet dishes. We order
the Peanut Island and the Mung Bean Pudding. Slathered with coconut cream
and with the consistency of glutinous mash, they denitely take some getting
used to. I nd myself wishing Id ordered the Lemongrass Iced Tea instead.
THE VERDICT
The one virtue
Phobidden Fruit has
masteredover two-and-a-
half years is consistency.
Thats probably the
secret of its success
in the notoriously
demanding Bengaluru
restaurant market. Its a
no-fuss set-up that plays
to its strengths but it
helps if you knowwhat
you want: dont expect
much assistance from
the wait staff.
THE BILL
Mukherjees meal for two
including two starters, two main
courses and two desserts is
` 1,440including taxes. `
FOOD: 7.5/10
ATMOSPHERE: 7.5/10
SERVICE: 7/10
TOTAL: 22/30
GOAGAIN?
Absolutely. Its value for money
and some of the dishes cant be
beaten.
The menu has several interesting choices with a fair number of vegetarian
options. The starters are delicious. The crunch and freshness of the vegetables
in the Summer Rolls is perfectly complemented by the tangy, hot dipping
sauce. The Viet Spare Ribs smothered in a thick, sweet glaze are completely
moreish. Tender and succulent, they are, however, more fat than meat.
Sides of steamed rice, some salad and potato fritters accompany the mains.
The Viet Red Chicken Curry is delicately seasoned and very avourful. The
Jungle Fish Curry, with its complex blend of spices and ery undertones, is
equally pleasing to the palate.
The desserts, though, are disappointing. The Peanut Island, an overly
sweet combination of banana and peanut, is somewhat one-dimensional and
lacks textural contrast. The Mung Bean Pudding, garnished with slivers of
strawberry, lychee and nely diced green apple, is barely sweetened. Both
desserts have a gummy, glutinous consistency
that I do not particularly care for. To drink, opt
for a Jasmine Iced Tea it has a refreshing
oral quality that lives up to its name.
Singhs meal for two including
two starters, two main courses,
two beverages and two desserts
is ` 1,670excluding taxes. `
FOOD: 7/10
ATMOSPHERE: 6/10
SERVICE: 5/10
TOTAL: 18/30
GOAGAIN?
For the food perhaps, but not in
a hurry.
This cosy restaurant
is suitable for a casual
meal out with family or a
meet-up with friends. The
food is fresh, unique and
tasty and the portions
are adequate. Space
constraints leave little
roomfor privacy. The
absence of valet parking
is a downer and the
interiors could do with a
little sprucing up.
Want to review a restaurant? For
a chance to become Good Foods next
punter, email a 200-word reviewof any
restaurant youve visited, with the heading
Pro vs Punter, to bbcgoodfood@wwm.
co.in with your contact details. You could
be the lucky one!
The restaurant's signature pho with seafood Jungle Fish Curry
eat o eat ou utt e ut eat ut
rest esta stau ttaurant r tau taurant r aurant r aurant r urant r urant urant r sta rant r stt rrant t rrrevie views ws ev evie s evi ws eev ws ee wws
Viet Spare Spare Rib re R Spare Ribs iib ibs Riibbss Ri Ribbss r
Tofu steak (silken tofu with soy wasabi butter and shiitake mushroom)
soy wasabi butter
y wasabi b
This tofu steak is the perfect veggie alternative. The silken tofu offers a textural contrast to the firm bite of i
mushrooms and the hit of wasabi soy f
butter perks up the dish.
unsalted butter 4 1/2 tbsp (try r
President available at gourmet stores) silken tofu 360g, cut into steaks soy sauce 15 tbsp
wasabi paste 3 tsp
shiitake mushrooms 3,
rehydrated in warm
water and sliced
In a heated pan, melt 1 1/2 tbsp of butter and cook the tofu for 5 minutes on each side on low heat until golden brown. Handle it delicately as silken tofu tends to break easily.
In another saucepan add soy sauce, the remaining butter, 1 1/2 tsp of wasabi //
paste and shiitake and stir till the butter dissolves and shiitake is cooked. Do not boil, as the sauce will turn salty. Place the sauted tofu on a deep plate and pour sauce over. Arrange mushrooms on top of tofu, garnish with remaining wasabi paste and serve hot.
PER SERVING 122.5 kcals, protein 6.4g, carbs 6.8g, fat 10.25g, sat fat 5.25g, fibre 0.85g, salt 3.2g
REALLY R
REALLY
EASY Y
If unsalted butter
is not available, use
9 tbsp soy sauce,
6 tbsp mirin and
3 tbsp regular butter
for the sauce
How to get the best
from Good Food India
THE GOOD FOOD INDIA
PROMISE
We hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurant
reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them
fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well and
doing it sustainably. Heres what you can expect from this
and every issue:
TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are tested
at least three times. For great results, we recommend
you use standard level measuring spoons, and dont mix
imperial and metric measures.
EASY RECIPES Most of Good Foods recipes are quick
and simple to follow and can be made using easily
available ingredients.
THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect for
elaborate meals and entertaining. Weve included a
smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a
good challenge.
GOOD VALUE Look out for our recipes that aim to make
the most of your budget 7 meals for ` 700. We also use `
full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste,
but if thats not possible we aim to suggest ways of using
up leftovers.
SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredients
in our recipes because they give the food a distinct
avour and add seasonal freshness.
HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20%
indulgent way of eating is best which is why we support
our recipes with nutritional info. Well also tell you how to
give popular recipes a healthy makeover.
PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we use
humanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs,
sustainably sourced sh and unrened sugar.
INTERNATIONAL SAVVY Sometimes, recipes call Y
for ingredients that arent available locally and cant be
brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. Its
your choice whether or not you use them.
CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-wall
eateries and ne dining restaurants theres room for
both in Good Foods Eat Out pages.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section arms
you with insider info and recipes from the worlds most
exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground food
journalists.
BIG ISSUES Preaching doesnt come naturally, so we
wont tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep
you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food world
in our Good Food Investigates feature. We weigh in on
the nutritional debate about rice on p 20.
Why you can cook our
recipeswith confidence
y y y y
All the recipes in Good Food are tested
thoroughly, so theyll work the rst
time for you at home. Most of our
recipes are developed in the Good
Food test kitchen by our cookery
team or come from food writers and
chefs. We aim to make our recipes
as practical as possible, keeping
ingredient lists to a minimum and
avoiding lengthy preparations.
How we triple test
our recipes
p
1
The rst time is by the recipe writer,
who tests the recipe in a domestic
kitchen.
2
Next, a member of the cookery
team makes the recipe in the
Good Food India kitchen.
3
The recipe is then tested at our
photo shoot. Some recipes are
tested a fourth time at home by
individual members of the Good Food
editorial team were all keen cooks
and often cant resist trying out a
recipe we particularly love, as soon as
weve discovered it.
Testing our recipes three times or
more may seem over-cautious, but
mistakes can be costly, so we think it
makes sense to ensure you get the
right result every time.
FOR
SKILLED
COOKSS
REALLY REALLY
REALLY
QUICKK
REALLY R
REALLY
EASY Y
Show-off recipes when you
fancy a challenge. These
recipes require a little effort.
Recipes that can be made
under 20 minutes. Perfect
for hectic weekdays.
Those recipes marked with
this stamp are the simplest
and require very little effort.
What our symbols
mean
EASY Recipes everyone can make,
even beginners. These dishes are
usually quick, often on the table within
20 minutes.
MODERATELY EASY These require
a bit more skill for example making
and rolling out pastry.
A LITTLE EFFORT
Recipes aimed at experienced cooks
who cook for pleasure and like a
challenge.
CAN BE FROZENUnless otherwise
stated, freeze for up to three months.
Defrost thoroughly and heat until
piping hot.
VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes.
JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.
Over to you
Have a family recipe to
share or think you could
add to our recipes? Email
us at bbcgoodfood@wwm.
co.in and let us know. Were
always on the look out for
new places and food stories
and would love to hear about
great places to eat in your
hometown.
LOOK OUT FOR
THESE HIGHLIGHTS
For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 117
first bite
Weve always loved this crunchy Korean relish with a passion. Now
its officially being hailed as the sexiest pickle of 2013!
rst bite
PICKLED PUCKER
Kimchi is to Koreans what
sauerkraut is to Germans. Made
with pickled vegetables, and at
times, seafood, it is a staple side in
every Korean meal. It is traditionally
seasoned, brined and fermented
for a few days. A smidgen of kimchi
adds a burst of colour to soups,
imparts a fiery bite to dumplings
and rice paper rolls, and makes
for a robust filling in a savoury
pancake. It can very happily be
eaten on its own, straight from
the bowl. We love how delightful
kimchi is you can use virtually
any vegetable to make it. Turn the
page to master different versions
of kimchi.
Kimchi hour
Recipes GUNG - THE PALACE, NEW DELHI Photographs JOY MANAVATH
Radish kimchi
Mixed cabbage
kimchi
Water kimchi
rst bite
Mixed cabbage kimchi
Makes 2kg 30 minutes + marinating
and fermenting EASY
hands. The cabbage can be diced or left
as it is. Cut 700g carrots and radish
into batons and quarter 300g onions.
Separate each layer of the onion.
Sprinkle 1 cup coarse salt between the
vegetables. Place the mixed vegetables
water to cover them fully. Taste the
water to make sure it is really salty,
otherwise add more salt. Leave the
cabbage immersed in the salted water
for 6 hours. Rinse twice, then let it drain
for 2 hours.
sugar, 2 tbsp chopped ginger, 8 tbsp
pears together.
Once the cabbage is well drained,
mix it with the kimchi lling and
sprinkle 4 tbsp sesame seeds over it.
The kimchi can be eaten unfermented,
stews or pancakes.
Radish kimchi
and fermenting EASY
Peel and cut 2kg radish into thin
strips, approximately 0.2-0.5cm wide.
Mix the radish with 1 cup coarse salt
and place in a container. Pour enough
water to cover it fully. Soak the radish
in the salted water for 30 minutes,
rinse and drain well.
sugar, 2 tbsp chopped ginger, 8 tbsp
pears together.
Once the radish is well drained, mix it
with the kimchi lling and sprinkle
4 tbsp sesame seeds over it. Cover
and refrigerate, allowing it to ferment
for 2-3 days.
SHELF PRESERVATION
Get a taste of Koreas most loved food export with these perky pickles that spell instant wow!
Leek kimchi
and fermenting EASY
Peel and cut 2kg leeks into thin strips,
approximately 0.2-0.5cm wide. Mix the
leeks with 1 cup coarse salt and place
in a container. Pour enough water into
the container to cover the leeks fully. Let
them soak in the salted water for
30 minutes. Rinse and drain well.
shrimp sauce, 2 tbsp sugar, 2 tbsp
chopped ginger, 8 tbsp chopped garlic
Once the leeks are well drained, mix
them with the kimchi lling and sprinkle
4 tbsp sesame seeds. Cover and
refrigerate, allowing it to ferment for 2-3
days.
Water kimchi
Makes 2kg 30 minutes +
marinating and fermenting EASY
hands. The cabbage can be diced or
left as it is. Sprinkle 1 cup coarse salt
between the leaves. Place the cabbage
water to cover it fully. Taste the water to
make sure it is really salty, otherwise add
more salt. Leave the cabbage immersed
in the salted water for 6 hours. Rinse
twice, then drain for 2 hours.
Meanwhile, prepare the kimchi
lling by mixing 50g shrimp sauce
or anchovies, 2 tbsp sugar, 2 tbsp
chopped ginger, 8 tbsp chopped garlic
Once the cabbage is well drained, mix
it with the kimchi lling and sprinkle
4 tbsp sesame seeds over it. The
kimchi can be eaten unfermented,
stews or pancakes. Leek kimchi
Make the
kimchi ahead. It stays
good to eat for months in
the refrigerator. If you prefer
a milder taste, consume
within 5-6 days. For a more
intense avour, use the
kimchi after a couple
of weeks.
Bulghar wheat salad with roasted beet, spinach and pine nuts Serves 2 35 minutes EASY
Heat the oven to 200C. Put 250g quartered, boiled beetroot (` ( 50/500g) in an ovenproof dish lined with foil and add ` 1 chopped garlic clove
(` ( 20/250g), ` 2 thyme sprigs (` ( 5/bunch), 2 tbsp Colavita Balsamic Vinegar ( r ` ( 65/125ml) and ` 1 tbsp oil. Season, then scrunch up the foil to make
a parcel. Cook for 20 minutes, and then cool. Meanwhile add boiling water to 75g Tipiak Bulgar Wheat (` ( 370/500g) and cover with cling-lm. Cool, `
then toss with 100g spinach (` ( 20/250g). Add the beetroot, keeping the cooking juices, and scatter with ` 1 tbsp toasted pine nuts (` ( 420/70g). Whisk `
the juices with 1 tbsp lemon juice (` ( 3/lemon) and 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar and drizzle over the salad. `
THE CASE FOR
Whats a bit of a pong weighed
against a whole lot of character?
Im willing to forgive dried sh
its (okay, considerable) stink
for all the crackly, crunchy fun
it adds to my plate. Theres
nothing like ikan
bilis (crisp-dried
anchovies) to
jazz up nasi
lemak, the
Malaysian
rice dish.
Closer home,
salty dried bombil
chatni is a simple, homely i
pleasure. Sure, the avour is bold
and can be a tad over the top,
but who said you need a heaped
serving of it? A little sprinkling of
dried sh goes a long way be it
over stir-fries, Asian-style salads,
or even on its own. Id say this is
a taste well worth acquiring.
- AMRITA GUPTA
THE JURYS OUT
Dried fish
How to use up
SUPERMARKET SWEEP
Pop into Foodhall for a quick weeknight meal
THE CASE AGAINST
There are those who have the
olfactory might to overlook the
stench of drying bombil and l
sing paeans to the slender sh.
I amnot one of them. To me, t
dried sh is one taste I will
probably never
acquire. Eating
it is like
road-rolling
your palate
there is no
option but to
surrender to its
overpowering avour.
Fresh sh has a subtlety of
aroma and taste thats lacking
in its dry form add dried sh
to a dish and what you get is a
brash sucker punch of shiness.
You could liken it to a classroom
bully, forcing every other avour
on a plate to submit to its will.
Thanks, but Ill pass.
- VIDYA BALACHANDER
Sticky salmon with greens
Heat the oven to 200C. Place
4 skinless salmon fillets on a
baking tray. Mix together 2 tbsp
oyster sauce, 3 tbsp teriyaki sauce
and 1 tbsp honey, then brush over the sh.
Roast for 8-10 minutes then set aside. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a wok, then fry
1 tbsp grated ginger, 1 sliced garlic clove and 1 sliced red chilli. Stir-fry
350g blanched broccoli, then add 250g each of chopped bok choy
and snow peas and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the rest of the sauce, heat
through and serve with the sh.
Teriyaki prawn and noodle broth Pour 1l vegetable stock into a pan k
and simmer. Stir in 1 tsp grated ginger, 2 tbsp teriyaki sauce and
1/2 tsp five-spice powder. Add 85g noodles and cook for 3-4 minutes.
Tip in 300g mixed stir-fried vegetables and 85g sliced
mushrooms, cook for a couple of minutes, then add 100g
shredded, cooked chicken and simmer. Season, and sprinkle
1 tsp sesame seeds.
Stir-fried teriyaki steak with cabbage Slice 1 sirloin
steak into thin strips. Heat k 2 tbsp oil in a wok. Add the
steak and 1 sliced onion. Fry until brown. Add 2 tbsp
teriyaki sauce and a splash of water. Tip onto a plate. Then
add 1/2 shredded cabbage and stir-fry. Season with 1 tbsp
soy sauce. Add the steak back to the pan and toss together.
Try Kikkoman available at gourmet stores, ` 110 `
for 250ml.
CUPBOARD LOVE
TERIYAKI
SAUCE
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need to know
need to know
DEBONAIRS PIZZA, MUMBAI
South Africas largest pizza chain makes
its foray into the city, aiming to create a
buzz around its signature Double Stack and
Triple Decker pizzas two or three crusty
bases sandwiched with cream cheese and
an assortment of llings. The eatery holds
promise for vegetarians but the avours are
a tad Indianised, with makhani sauce, kheema
and paneer making an appearance on the
menu. The Super Pizza with four different nine-
inch square pizzas is a good choice for a group.
Shubham Co-Op Housing Society,
Juhu-Versova Link Road, Mumbai.
Tel: + 91 22 6943 1111
PING PONG, MUMBAI
After much dilly-dallying, Londons favourite
dim sum eatery nally makes its debut in
Mumbai, giving the neighborhoods corporate
crowd an excuse to meet over extended
lunches and free Wi-Fi. Dim sum clearly
dominates the menu there are baskets of
steamed har gau, spinach and mushroom
dumplings and honey barbecued pork buns.
Other eats include honey-roasted chicken puffs
and Vietnamese rice paper rolls along with
an assortment of teas, cocktails, and desserts
such as Chinese ginger cake.
First International Financial Centre, BKC,
Mumbai. Tel: + 91 22 6741 3333
ELMAS BRASSERIE,
NEW DELHI
Elmas Brasserie is a new venture by the folks
behind Elmas Bakery, Cakes and Tea Room in
Hauz Khas Village. It has all the elements of a
charming caf a chalkboard menu, wooden
ooring, pastel walls and vintage crockery. Its
perfect for a lazy afternoon with friends over
several cups of tea and wedges of aky mille-
feuille. The menu strikes a balance between
light bites and comfort food. Some of the
heartier dishes include roasted chicken stuffed
with cheese, lamb chops and grilled prawns.
73,MeharchandMarket,LodhiRoad,
New Delhi. Tel: + 91 11 4905 0881
TABLE HOPPING Get your first taste of the hottest new restaurants on the block
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RAISE A TOAST! SPICE ROUTE
With a profusion of gourmet start-ups sprouting in cyberspace, an
electronic liquor store seemed like a logical next step for entrepreneurs
Dhruv Khandelwal and Amit Goel. Their venture, Letsbuydrink.com, lets
you order alcohol online and have it delivered to your doorstep (theres
a minimum spend of ` 1,000, and
delivery is within two hours if you
order before 9 pm). The offerings
are expansive theres bourbon
whiskey, single malts, wines from
across the globe, cognac, pre-mix
drinks and vermouth. You can also
order organic coffee sourced from
theindianbean.com. While this is
inarguably a sweet deal, we wish
the website also had dessert
wines and bar accessories up for
grabs. The service is currently in
Delhi and across Maharashtra,
and will soon be in Bengaluru.
Call +91 9015555000
or follow them on Twitter:
@LetsBuyDrink
letsbuydrink.com The Online Club ASA Spices at Foodhall
Julian Amerys penchant for collecting spices, herbs and dried owers
on his trips across India, Africa and Europe, led him to establish ASA
(pronounced asha) in 2010 in Copenhagen. ASAs spice stations
in Foodhall outlets offer fair-trade organic spices such as Sichuan
peppercorns, pink pepper from the Camargue, and blue cornowers
from Scandinavia. ASA also offers custom-made spice blends such as
Egyptian dukkah and Syrian zataar (` 200 to ` 4,800 per kg).
ASA Spices are ground-on-order and available at Foodhall outlets
in Mumbai, Bengaluru and Delhi. Visit asatrading.dk for details.
Whats new in
supermarkets this month?
FRESH ON
THE SHELVES
HOME CHEF SPRING ROLL
SAUCE ` 285 for 300ml `
Spring rolls are the perfect party snack
but wed hesitate to pair them with this
sauce. It is almost one-dimensional in
taste, with an overriding sweetness that
obscures all other avours. Flecked with
strands of grated carrot, the sauce also
has an unpleasant, gummy consistency
because of the xanthan gum added to thicken it. Give
this one a miss and serve those rolls with sweet chilli or
sriracha sauce instead.
CLEARSPRING JAPANESE ARAME
` 935 for 50g `
The Japanese have always known about the nutritive
properties of edible seaweed.
Now, you too can easily
reap the benets of iodine-
and mineral-rich arame, a
type of kelp. Available in its
dehydrated form, arame is
greenish-black in colour and
has no discernible avour.
Once you soak it in water
though, the wispy strands of
seaweed swell to almost double
their size. They possess a mild
ocean avour that isnt too overwhelming even if youre
trying seaweed for the rst time. Sprinkle them over a
bowl of miso soup or add them to a salad but sparingly,
as the steep price is denitely a factor to consider.
NONGSHIM SHRIMP FLAVORED
CRACKERS` 95 for 75g `
Few snacks can match
the addictive lure of
shrimp crackers. When you
open this packet, a strong,
reassuring shrimp aroma
wafts out. But the crackers
are disappointingly under-
seasoned and have only the
faintest trace of prawn avour.
The plus point is they are
perfectly crisp and not greasy,
despite being deep-fried.
Trends we like
KETTLE LOVE
Thinking of hosting a tea party at home? Get brewing
with these natty beauties
P
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1. Blue conical teapot ` 2,800, available at Good Earth; 2. ` Primula cast iron
teapot ` 4,298, available at zansaar.com; 3. ` Taj kettle ` 3,500, available at `
mypitara.com; 4. Ceramic teapot ` 930, available at Fabindia; `
5. Cast iron teapot ` 2,800, available at Good Earth; 6. ` Blue cone teapot
` 1,550, available at jaypore.com `
1
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3
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need to know
need to know
pantry basics
A good curry paste is the foundation of a Thai curry. We test seven leading brands of red curry paste
in the market to find the one that comes closest to the freshly pounded homemade version
Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs SHREYA GUPTA
ON TEST Red Thai curry paste
REAL THAI ` 49/50g
We imagine that hungry-for-curry
Thai nationals must be going
through packets of these pastes in a
month. Packing a mean punch with
generous heaps of dried red chillies
and garlic, the Real Thai paste is
surprisingly affordable and the
closest you can get to a homemade
one. Had they added shrimp paste
to the mix and a more assertive
note of lemongrass and galangal,
the curry would have fared even
better. Do not skimp on any of the
trimmings like sweet basil, kafr
lime leaves and red chillies; they
elevate the curry to a delicious high.
NAMJAI ` 47/50g
The rst thing that strikes us
about this Bangkok import is the
aroma when we sizzle the paste
in hot oil. The addition of shrimp
paste increases the pungency
and the lemongrass asserts itself
after a quick sear in the pan. This
brand is also one of two the other
being Desiam to recommend frying
the meat and veggies before pouring in the coconut milk. This
small detail results in a curry that is pleasantly spicy, has all
the key avourings they even manage the bitter note without
being overpowering and doesnt fail to impress.
PANTAI ` 110/114g
Pantais paste imparts heat and
pungency but none of the other
stellar avour combinations we
expect from a Thai curry. With
not even a trace of lemongrass
or galangal, we are compelled
to rescue our curry with extra
lashings of sh sauce, sugar, lime
leaves and basil. Mercifully, this
results in a luscious curry that is
devoured with bowlfuls of rice.
The bright orange-red paste in its
raw form throws us off. With no
cooking instructions on the packet,
we have to gure our way through
the portioning.
Much like
the others,
this product
eliminates
the shrimp
paste,
possibly in
an attempt
to pander to
uninitiated
taste buds.
BLUE DRAGON ` 149/220g
UK-based Blue Dragon comes surprisingly
close to its Thai counterparts in terms
of achieving a balance of avour. The
chillies and the acidic elements are
more pronounced and the curry even
possesses a mildly bitter aftertaste, which
is normally achieved with the addition
of pea aubergines. With an extra dose
of palm sugar, the eriness can easily
be toned down. The curry is suitable for vegetarians and the
elimination of sh sauce doesnt drastically alter its taste. It is
lighter in colour than the other curries.
CHINGS ` 140/200g
Theres no doubt that Chings Secret
has put a lot of thought into the detailed
instructions and impressive packaging. But
had they spent more time on the actual
paste, our curry could have been a lot
more appetising. Instead were
left with a slightly bitter curry
with an overwhelming chilli
bite. The raw paste resembles
Schezwan sauce with a heavy
coating of oil. This is also the
only brand to recommend
adding the curry paste after
the coconut milk.
DESIAM` 165/70g
Given their claims of being spicy, we expect
this curry to be hot enough to have us
yearning for a soothing coconut dessert.
Instead, it has us reaching out for sugar
to counteract its puckering acidity. The
shrimp paste, though
barely identiable, does
add some complexity to
the avour. Had it not
been so overly pungent,
we would use the paste
to avour other Thai
favourites such as sh
cakes and barbecued meat.
BLUE ELEPHANT ` 210/70g
This paste is redolent with spices but has a
eriness that instantly hits the throat. When
fried, the fragrant curry paste releases its
bold lemongrass and chilli notes immediately.
The resulting curry is full-bodied, sour and
reminds us faintly of
massaman curry from
southern Thailand. Even
though the packaging
doesnt advertise its
use, the curry has an
overpowering avour of
turmeric that everyone
may not appreciate.
LOVES
BBC GoodFood 17
need to know
SEPTEMBER 2013
Mexican food fans, rejoice.
Rodeo, one of the citys rst
Mexican restaurants, has
introduced value-for-money
weekday lunches. The lunch
combo includes a soup, a
salad and a choice of six
dishes as part of the main
course. A bowl of chicken or
mushroom soup is served with
corn tortilla chips and pico
de gallo while the salads are o
dressed with salsa, sour cream
or jalapeo mayonnaise.
Some of the mains on ofer
include mushroom crpes,
grilled marinated chicken with
Serrano mayonnaise, pan-
grilled jumbo prawns stufed with olives, and platters of nachos drenched in
cheese. Tel: +91 11 2371 3780; Monday to Friday, noon 3.30 pm.
Good Food tracks down this months top foodie meals and deals d
Words KHORSHED DEBOO
` 158-A-HEAD DINNER `
PARTY FOR 4!
` 599 WEEKDAY MEXICAN
LUNCH BUFFET AT RODEO,
NEW DELHI

All prices
PER HEAD
excluding taxes
and travel
Total ` 629
(` 158 ` per head)
Lemon, broccoli and
sesame roast chicken (p 62) ` 288
Aubergine and black bean stir-fry (p 46) ` 179 `
Anmitsu (p 75) ` 162
If youve been longing to visit Mumbais famed Ziya at The Oberoi, we
suggest you make the most of this brunch deal. Helmed by Chef Vineet
Bhatia, the restaurant that serves contemporary Indian fare ofers a
sumptuous brunch spread on Sundays. The dining experience allows you to
feast on kebabs, prawn curry, lamb chops, mushroom khichdi and raan, and n
desserts such as kheer ice cream and coconut and rice r basundi, along with i
unlimited rounds of sparkling wine or beer. The sweeping view of the ocean
is a bonus. Tel: +91 22 6632 6210; Sundays, 12.30 pm 3 pm.
The seventh edition of Citibank
Restaurant Week India will
have over 70 participating
restaurants across Bengaluru,
Delhi and Mumbai. The event
gives culinary enthusiasts
the chance to enjoy a three-
course prix xe meal (with
a choice of vegetarian or
non-vegetarian) at a fraction
of the regular la carte rates.
Participating restaurants include
Bengalurus Caperberry and
Szechwan Court (pictured);
Delhis Rara Avis, Sakura
and Varq; and Mumbais
Vetro, Hakkasan and Ellipsis. The menu is priced at ` 750 per person `
for lunch or dinner in Bengaluru, ` 1,000 for lunch and ` 1,200 for `
dinner in Delhi and Mumbai. From 23 September to 2 October. Visit
restaurantweekindia.com to make reservations. m
RESTAURANT WEEK INDIA,
BENGALURU, DELHI
AND MUMBAI
` 2,000 UNLIMITED BOOZE `
SUNDAY BRUNCH AT ZIYA,
MUMBAI

BARGAINHUNTER
need to know
Bamboo shoots
Crunchy, flavourful and endlessly versatile, bamboo shoots are an integral
ingredient across Southeast Asia and north-east India
Words HOIHNU HAUZEL Photograph SONA BAHADUR
spotlight
bamboo shoots
E
ver wondered if the secret
to creating a avourful Thai
curry can be pinned down
to one special ingredient?
Well, apart from the curry paste, of
course. It was a revelation to discover in
Thailand that the Thais are particularly
partial to fresh bamboo shoot. The
Thai curries I relished invariably had
bamboo shoot added to the dish, along
with white pumpkin and pea aubergine,
which the Thais refer to as ma khua
proh. Traditionally, fresh bamboo shoot
is boiled in water before it is used in
Thai dishes.
Veena Arora, Chef de Cuisine
at The Imperial Hotels famous
restaurant, Silk Route, in New Delhi,
uses bamboo shoot in all her Thai
curries. It makes all the diference to
use bamboo shoot, especially in curries
and stir-fried dishes, says the Thai
chef of Indian origin. At home, Arora
often rustles up a Thai soup called dom
jud nomai sot, made of thinly sliced
bamboo shoot and pork ribs mixed
with salt, garlic and pepper.
The ingredient is vital to Vietnamese
cuisine too. Fresh, tender shoots are
used to prepare several Vietnamese
broths, including sp bn mang g a
noodle soup with chicken and bamboo
shoots, usually eaten for breakfast.
Indeed, the avour of the soup depends
upon the quality of bamboo shoot,
which is cut lengthwise and added
with other ingredients like shallots,
mushrooms, sliced ginger and rice
vermicelli. Ideally, young shoots should
be used to impart a distinct taste.
Bamboo shoots are also an integral
component of Chinese stir-fries.
Baba Ling, owner of long-established
Chinese restaurants Nanking in Delhi
and Lings Pavilion in Mumbai, says
that bamboo shoot is an essential
ingredient in the Chinese kitchen, and
is prized for its rm, crunchy texture.
Apart from tossing it into his stir-fries,
he uses it in stews and also adds it
to pork curry along with soya sauce.
Theres nothing like pork curry with
bamboo shoot, he says.
The plant grows extensively not just
in Southeast Asia and India but also in
Africa and the Far East. It is referred
to by diferent local names in each of
these places. The edible shoots of the
bamboo plant are plucked when they
are just about two weeks old: tender yet
rm. The shoots are surrounded by a
protective, shell-like outer casing that
has to be peeled layer by layer until the
tender core is exposed. The best way to
treat peeled bamboo shoots is to slice
them thinly and then wash thoroughly.
Some people soak the shoots in water
overnight to dilute their pungency or
bitterness. Most importantly, this also
purges the toxins believed to be present
in the bamboo shoot. After this, it can
simply be fried like any other vegetable.
In India, it is during the monsoon
that tender bamboo shoots sprout from
the root and are ready to be eaten,
although they are never consumed raw.
Predictably, this is also when every
household across north-east India
feasts on bamboo shoot dishes, making
full use of this seasonal bounty. Family
members gather in their courtyards and
peel the outer layers of the bamboo,
bonding over the communal exercise.
In the seven sister states, where
bamboo shoots are abundant, it is
widely relished as a delicacy. The Nagas
love it in their pork. The Mizos use it
in bai, a traditional dish that is a mix of
vegetables or meat cooked with soda, or
even in chutney. The Assamese use it in
sh curry to impart a tangy avour.
Of course, bamboo shoot is widely
available in its canned form, though the
people of the north-east prefer using
their own methods to preserve the
perishable shoots for use throughout
the year: they are commonly smoked,
dried or fermented.
But fermented bamboo shoot
is an acquired taste. The process of
fermentation is tedious shoots are cut
into small pieces, wrapped in plantain
leaves and stored inside a wicker or
cane basket in a cool, dry place. Over
the course of about a week, the shoots
gradually turn moist, to the point of
becoming watery. This water is squeezed
out from the bamboo shoot before it is
cooked. Fermented bamboo shoots lend
a special depth of avour to pork-based
dishes. In Manipur, it is also used in sh
curry and in chutneys such as ironba,
which contains fermented sh laced
with the ery raja chilli.
Increasingly, bamboo shoots are
commonly pickled with salt and other
condiments. Bamboo shoot pickle is
made with mustard oil, garlic, ginger
and lots of chillies. Some households
even use the native bhut jolokia (one
of the hottest chilli peppers in the
world). Bamboo shoot pickle is relished
in pockets of south India, too. In a
small hill station called Sakleshpur
in Karnataka, it is made with garlic,
mustard seeds and curry leaves.
Centuries ago, when hunter-
gatherers rst discovered bamboo
shoot was edible, they may not have
been preoccupied with its health
benets. But today we know that
this crunchy delicacy is loaded with
nutrients. High in bre, it is said to
regulate cholesterol, aid in weight loss
and balance blood pressure. In fact,
a study on the efects of bre present
in bamboo shoots, published in the
scientic journal Nutrition in 2009,
found that women who consumed it
regularly lowered their LDL or bad
cholesterol. Being naturally low in sugar
and calories a cup of cooked bamboo
shoot contains only 14 calories it is
also ideal for weight watchers.
Fresh,
tender
shoots are
used to
prepare
Vietnamese
broths
indeed,
the favour
depends
upon the
quality of
bamboo
shoot
Shredded chicken,
curry leaf and bamboo
shoot stir-fry
Recipe AMIT PAMNANI
Heat 1 tbsp oil in a wok. Add
10-12 curry leaves, 2 red chillies,
slit lengthwise and 3 chopped garlic
cloves. Saut for 30 seconds and
add 1 sliced red pepper. Saut for a
minute, add 400g cooked, shredded
chicken, 200g sliced bamboo
shoots and 1 tbsp soya sauce.
Season well and toss to mix evenly.
Turn off the gas. Garnish with
chopped spring onions, chopped
coriander and a drizzle of sesame
oil. Serve hot.
No cereal is more beloved to Indians than rice, yet it remains at the centre of
a stormy nutritional debate. BBC Good Food gets to the grain of the matter
Words NANDITA IYER
RICE
investigates
I
ts hard to think of a cereal that is
more intrinsic to Indian culture
than rice. It journeys with us for
a whole lifetime. It is the rst
solid food a baby is traditionally fed
during the annaprashan ceremony (a
Hindu ritual that marks the infants
rst intake of food), and it is sprinkled
over a deceased persons mouth during
the antim sanskar, or last rites. A vast
majority of the Indian population eats
rice as its staple grain, similar to Asian
countries such as China and Japan,
where it is almost always the main part
of a meal.
In recent years, Indias rice
production has boomed. According
to a Bloomberg report published in
June 2013, Indias rice output this year
is expected to be around 110 million
tonnes, cementing its place as the
worlds second largest grower of the
grain after China. Out of this, 10.5
million tonnes is likely to be exported,
making the country the worlds largest
exporter of rice. And yet, rice is one
of the most controversial cereals of
our time. Opinions about the grain
are sharply polarised while some
nutritionists advocate it over wheat
because it is gluten-free, a far larger
number recommend avoiding it
altogether because it is considered to be
full of empty calories that fuel obesity
and increase the risk of type-2 diabetes.
So what is the truth about rice? Are
some varieties better than others?
How much of it should you include in
your diet?
HISTORY AND TYPES OF
RICE
The historical origin of rice cultivation
remains a controversial subject. In
his book, Sturtevants Notes on Edible
Plants, American botanist Edward
Lewis Sturtevant traces the origin of
rice to roughly 130 million years ago,
when it existed in the form of wild
grass. It was rst cultivated as a grain
around 10,000 years ago, somewhere
in Asia. There is evidence that rice
was grown during the Indus Valley
Civilisation in the Third Millennium
BC. But the rst domesticated variety
is believed to have been cultivated in
the Yangtze River Valley in China, more
than 8,000 years ago.
Rice is broadly categorised into
two major subspecies Indica and
Japonica. The popular rice varieties we
consume belong to one of these two
types. According to the International
Rice Research Institute, a research
organisation based in the Philippines,
Indica is an umbrella term that includes
several diferent varieties of rice that
grow well in warm temperatures.
These varieties are distinguished by
medium to long grains of rice, which
retain their form after being cooked
and dont clump together. Aromatic
basmati and jasmine are two of the
best-known Indica rice varieties.
Japonica rice varieties have short to
medium opaque grains and tend to be
sticky and moist when cooked, due to
the lack of a component of starch called
amylose, which keeps grains whole.
They are also prized for being highly
nutritious and low in starch. This kind
of rice forms the backbone of Japanese
cooking. Glutinous or sticky rice, which
is widely used in Southeast Asian
countries such as Laos, Vietnam and
Thailand, and arborio are two kinds of
Japonica grains.
The size of a rice grain is precisely
dened: while short grain rice has
almost the same width and length,
medium grain rice is twice as long as it
is wide and the length of long grain rice
is thrice its width.
THE ANATOMY OF A GRAIN
OF RICE
To get to the bottom of the debate
on the nutritive properties of rice,
its important to start with a single
grain. The outermost layer of the rice
grain is known as the husk or hull.
It is inedible and therefore removed P
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during milling. The second layer called
bran is highly nutritious and contains
bre, proteins and minerals. It can be
light brown, black or red in colour,
which gives unpolished grains their
characteristic colour. This kind of rice
is considered nutritionally superior to
polished white rice. Once the husk is
eliminated, milling the grain further
removes the bran layer to reveal
the endosperm, which contains
carbohydrates, proteins and important
amino acids. A rice grain stripped
down to its endosperm is what we
know as white rice. The degree of
processing determines the colour of
the grain.
WHITE RICE VS BROWN
RICE
The process that converts brown rice
into white rice destroys 67 per cent of
the vitamin B3 content, 80 per cent
of vitamin B1, 90 per cent of vitamin
B6, 50 per cent of the manganese
and phosphorus content and 60 per
cent of iron, along with dietary bre
and essential fatty acids. So it is no
surprise that brown rice is much more
nutritious than white rice. It has more
bre, iron, potassium, phosphorus,
zinc and minerals such as copper and
manganese.
However, the bran contains
essential oils, which makes it more
prone to spoilage than white rice,
which has had the bran removed.
Also, the antioxidant compounds
called phytates present in the bran can
hinder the absorption of important
nutrients such as iron. This is a minor
drawback of brown rice, but not
signicant enough to take away from
its other benets. Cooking reduces the
phytate content of brown rice to some
extent, says Sheela Krishnaswamy,
a Bengaluru-based nutrition and
wellness consultant. If brown rice
was really problematic for health, it
would not have been widely used many
decades ago.Also, since brown rice has
more nutrition than white rice, some
kind of a balance is struck.
Where does that leave white rice?
In its defence, it is not completely
devoid of nutrients. It is an important
source of carbohydrates (amounting
to 77.5 per cent) and high quality
protein (about 4g per cup). However,
protein from white rice is incomplete
because it does not contain adequate
quantities of an essential amino acid
called lysine. Eating foods rich in lysine
helps the body procure this missing
essential amino acid. Some of these
foods are beans, lentils, soya products,
nuts and dairy products. This also
explains why combinations like dal and
rice or yoghurt and rice are considered
nutritionally complete.
In India, we also have another
variety of rice called parboiled rice,
also known as converted rice. Here,
rice that is still in the husk is partially
boiled and dried. Nutrients from the
husk and bran are allowed to seep
into the endosperm, so the milling
process does not strip the rice entirely
of its nutrients. Parboiled rice is used
almost daily in south India, and also for
making the batter for idlis or dosas.
The American Diabetes Association
lists it as a low glycaemic index food, or
one that takes longer to digest, thereby
preventing a sudden spike in blood
sugar levels.
WEIGHTY
MATTERS
One of the most debated
aspects of rice is its association
with weight gain. A lot of weight
loss clinics and self-styled experts do
not permit the consumption of rice
because they believe its difcult to
quantify rice intake, often leading to
excess intake, says Krishnaswamy.
The truth is that it is often tougher to
practise portion control with rice. In
rice-eating communities, three or four
dishes are typically paired with the
grain, making it difcult to keep track
of the quantity being consumed.
However, Krishnaswamy says
it is not true that rice has a higher
calorie burden than other grains.It
is a myth that a person on a weight
loss regime should avoid rice, or
that rice causes weight gain, says
Krishnaswamy. According to an
article published in the Journal of
the American Dietetic Association in
October 2009, Americans who eat
rice obtain a smaller portion of their
NUTRITIONAL COMPARISON
BETWEEN WHITE RICE AND
BROWN RICE
Per cup White rice Brown rice
Calories 242 kcals 218 kcals
Protein 4.4g 4.5g
Carbohydrate 53.2g 45.8g
Fat 0.4g 1.6g
Fibre 0.6g 3.5g
Magnesium 24mg 86mg
Folate 108mcg 8mcg
Zinc 0.8mg 1.2mg
Courtesy livestrong.com
The process that converts brown rice
into white rice destroys 67 per cent of the
vitamin B3 content, 80 per cent of vitamin
B1, 90 per cent of vitamin B6, 50 per cent
of the manganese and phosphorus content
and 60 per cent of iron, along with dietary
fbre and essential fatty acids
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need to know
food issue
The satiety factor of white rice is low due
to negligible fbre content, which means
that unless it is combined with other
high-fbre foods and protein, you will feel
hungry soon after eating a predominantly
white rice-based meal
daily calories from fat and have a lower
rate of saturated fat consumption than
those who do not eat rice. The study
also found that people who eat rice
consume more bre, vegetables, iron
and potassium than their counterparts
who shun it.
But it is important to add to its
nutritional heft by choosing the right
pairings. The satiety factor of white rice
is low due to negligible bre content,
which means that unless it is combined
with other high-bre foods and protein,
you will feel hungry soon after eating
a predominantly white rice-based
meal. In countries such as Japan and
South Korea, rice is typically paired
with protein-rich foods such as sh
and meat, which is why obesity rates
in these predominantly rice-eating
societies are very low, when compared
to a country like the United States.
THE DIABETES LINK
Its difcult to establish a direct link
between eating rice and the risk of
developing type-2 diabetes. However,
it is a well-known fact that Indians are
genetically prone to developing insulin
resistance, a condition that lowers the
bodys sensitivity to insulin and causes
metabolic problems that can eventually
snowball into diabetes. White rice has
a high glycaemic index, which means
it swamps the bloodstream with a large
amount of sugar in a relatively short
span of time. Brown rice takes longer to
metabolise, giving the body more time
to break down the blood sugar.
According to a study published
in 2010 in the Archives of Internal
Medicine, a peer-reviewed medical
journal, Higher intake of white rice
(ve or more servings per week)
is associated with a higher risk of
type-2 diabetes. In contrast, a high
intake of brown rice (two or more
servings per week) is associated with
a lower risk of type-2 diabetes. It was
thereby estimated that replacing an
uncooked measure of 50g of white rice
a day with the same amount of brown
rice lowered the risk of type-2 diabetes
by 16 per cent.
However, people in north-east India,
Japan and China have been eating white
rice for generations without any major
diabetes scares. This could be because
they are genetically programmed to eat
rice, so their bodies insulin mechanism
responds accordingly. It is also
signicant that their diet includes plenty
of greens, steamed vegetables, sh and
meats. Rice cannot be judged by itself
the diet needs to be looked at as a whole.
BETTER THAN WHEAT?
In a world where gluten intolerance is
on the rise, rice seems like the logical
alternative to wheat. Since rice is
naturally gluten-free, any variety of
it can serve the purpose of being a
primary source of carbohydrates. It is
also usually free of any stomach irritants
or allergens, which is why it is the safest
weaning food for babies. However,
unpolished rice is a more nutritionally
complete alternative to wheat than white
rice is. Also, since the protein content of
rice is less than that of wheat, its wise to
combine the grain with other protein-
rich foods.
The supremacy of rice as one of the
countrys staple foods is unlikely to be
challenged. However, eat it mindfully
and make informed nutritional choices
in order to gain the maximum benet
from this versatile grain.
BUSTING ALL MYTHS
Myth: Diabetics cannot eat rice
Fact: They can eat rice by exercising portion control, combining it with vegetables and protein-
rich foods. Brown rice is certainly a better alternative, but white rice combined with nutritious
sides is not detrimental to health.

Myth: Rice causes inch gain
Fact: This is a popular claim of most tness centres that focus on daily inch loss. As long as
the number of calories you consume daily equals the number of calories you burn, you cannot
gain inches, even if you eat rice.
Myth: Rice contains bad carbs

Fact: No one eats rice by itself. It is always combined with vegetables, dal, eggs or meat, all of
which lower the glycaemic load of your meal. However, combining rice with potatoes or other
high-carbohydrate foods is not advisable.
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Sweet potato
The healthy ingredient
A rich source of fibre, sweet potatoes clearly score over potatoes in nutritional
value, says health expert Natalie Savona
O
riginally from South
America, this versatile
vegetable makes a tasty
change from normal
potatoes. It gives 50 per cent more
bre, so youll get at least a third of
your daily requirements from an
average sweet potato, eaten with the
skin on. They also have a low glycaemic
index (GI), so theyre more satisfying.
Their orange colour (although some
have white esh) hints at the rich
levels of beta-carotene: a whopping
11,500mcg per 100g compared with
just 6mcg in potatoes, and even 40 per
cent more than carrots. Beta-carotene
is converted into vitamin A in the body,
helping to improve immunity and
boost the health of skin and mucous
membranes (which line the nose, lungs
and intestines). A sweet potato will give
you about half your recommended
dietary allowance of vitamin E, and
contains useful amounts of other
vitamins and minerals, too. Roasting is
a quick way to cook them. Theyre also
good baked whole, boiled or mashed
and make a great addition to stews,
curries and salads.
need to know
wellbeing
Sweet potato and
rosemary soup with
garlic toasts
olive oil 2 tsp + extra for brushing
onion 1, chopped
garlic cloves 3
sweet potatoes 750g, peeled and
cubed
vegetable stock 1l
rosemary sprigs 2
bread 8 slices
salt and pepper to season
Heat the oil in a saucepan, then
fry the onion until soft. Crush 2 garlic
cloves, add to the onion, then fry for
1 minute more. Stir in the sweet potato,
then cover with the stock and bring to
the boil. Strip the leaves from one of
the rosemary sprigs, and add to the
pan. Simmer for 10 minutes until the
potato is soft.
Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200C.
Place the bread on a baking sheet, then
brush with olive oil. Slice the remaining
garlic clove in half, and rub the cut
side over the bread along with the
leaves from the second rosemary sprig.
Season, then bake for 10 minutes until
crisp and golden.
Use a hand blender to roughly pure
the soup, adding a splash of hot water
if it seems too thick. Season well, then
pour into bowls and serve with the
toasts.
20g, carbs 84g, fat 7g, sat fat 1g, fibre
7g, sugar 15g, salt 2.49g
R
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4 REASONS TO EAT
SWEET POTATOES
Nutritious alternative
to regular potatoes
High in fibre
Very rich in beta-carotenes
A good source of vitamin E
Lychee martini
Recipe TRUDI OLIVEIRO
Half ll a cocktail shaker with ice. Add
60ml vodka, 10ml sugar syrup and
a splash of fresh lychee pure or juice.
You can use either fresh or canned
lychees. Shake thoroughly and strain into a
martini glass. Make a cut into the side of
1 lychee and sit it on the rim of the glass.
PER SERVING 105 kcals, protein none,
carbs 9g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre
none, sugar 8.5g, salt none
Frozen lychee and mint
cocktails
Recipe LUCY NETHERTON
Pour 200ml sugar syrup into a blender.
Add 12 fresh or canned lychees, a bunch
of mint leaves, 100ml vodka and the
juice of 2 limes. Add 2 handfuls of ice
and blend until slushy. Serve in glasses
garnished with a mint sprig and a lychee.
PER SERVING 98 kcals, protein none,
carbs 11g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre
none, sugar 11g, salt none
Elevenses
Recipe courtesy THE-AURA.COM
Half ll a tall glass with crushed ice.
Pour in 50ml gin, 25ml mango pure,
25ml lychee pure, 15ml lemon juice,
a dash of sugar syrup, 50ml apple juice
and 6 mint leaves. Mix, top up with ice
and decorate with a lemon slice and
a mint sprig.
PER SERVING 211 kcals, protein 1.5g,
carbs 45.3g, fat 2g, sat fat 0.8g, fibre 1.1g,
sugar 9.3g, salt 0.54g
drink up
night out
Add some tropical lan to your cocktails with this succulent fruit
high on lychees
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Lychee martini
BBC GoodFood 27
need to know
food shows
Whats on
ON THE PLATE
SNACK ATTACK
Learn how to whip up delicious
nibbles out of kitchen staples
with a little help from Snack
Attack, a show on Zee Khana
Khazana. With a little creativ
these mini meals can uplift
your mood while also giving
you a nutritional boost. For
Thai-inspired treat, give the
spicy skewers of chicken on
sugarcane stalks a shot.
Snack Attack airs on k
Mondays, Wednesdays
and Fridays on Zee
Khana Khazana at
4.30pm.
Chicken on sugarcane
Serves 2 25 minutes MODERATELY EASY
Mix 1/2 cup minced chicken, 1 tbsp breadcrumbs, 1 tsp
ginger paste, 1 tsp lemon juice, 1 tsp chopped garlic, 1 tsp
each of finely chopped coriander and r mint leaves, 1/2 tsp
chilli flakes and salt in a bowl.
To make the sauce, put 1 cup water, 1/4 cup white wine
vinegar, 2 tbsp chilli flakes, 2tbsp chopped garlic and c
1/2 cup powdered sugar in a saucepan and cook until thick. r
Set the cooked chicken on top of 5-6 halved sugarcane
sticks and then roll them in a plate of breadcrumbs.
Add 1 1/2 tbsp oil in a hot pan, cover, and cook the
chicken sugarcane sticks until done. Arrange on a plate,
pour the sauce over and garnish with coriander leaves.
Place a few banana leaves with 3-4boiled rice cubes
over them. Garnish with tomato wedges and serve with
the chicken.
This months best food news on TV and
multimedia
YOUTUBE PICK OF THE MONTH
THE LITTLE PARIS KITCHEN
TV TASTING
MEDIA MUST-HAVES
APP: BIGOVEN
When culinary inspiration is running low, this free
iOS app is likely to come handy. It includes a vast
database of recipes, and also innovative ideas to use up
leftovers. There are readymade menus categorised according
to occasions (parties, weekend etc), weather (hot, rainy, cold)
and diet specications (diabetic, low-carb, low-fat etc).
BLOG: BEHIND THE FOOD CARTS
We love the motivation driving this award-winning blog: street
fare. Wedding photographers by profession, bloggers Kim and
Phil document their love for food carts and trucks through
their scrumptious photographs. From Nongs Khao Man Gai, a
food cart in Portland, Oregon that specialises in Thai chicken
and rice, to Jo on the Go, a coffee truck in the San Francisco
Bay Area, theres plenty to get the wheels turning here.
INSTAGRAM: @ALIFEWORTHEATING
New York-based software engineer Adam Goldberg travels
the world to satisfy his passion for food. Along the way, he
posts photos of the fare on his plate: images that are stunning
in their simplicity. If you dont mind the envy (and quickened
appetite) that is sure to ensue by browsing through a hipster
feed of matcha green tea latte, foie gras mousse and fresh
Mexican tamales, hes well worth following.
If we ever needed a reason to be
grateful for YouTube, we just found
it. Although it doesnt air in India,
we can still watch clips of French
ptissire and chef Rachel Khoos
popular BBC show, The Little Paris
Kitchen. British-born Khoo trained
in pastry at Le Cordon Bleu and her
love for baking translates into luscious
yet unconventional creations such as a
savoury Goats cheese, pistachio and
prune cake, Cheese and potato nests
and Sweet chestnut cream. Shot in
her tiny yet atmospheric Paris kitchen
(with a KitchenAid mixer tucked into a
cupboard) and in some of her favourite
haunts in the city, The Little Paris Kitchen is full of charm and Khoos laidback n
style makes for easy viewing. Savour this on a relaxed Saturday afternoon.
RANVEER
BRAR
vity,
g
a
ese
n
eat in
46 pages of Asian flavours, from easy Chinese meals and
home-style Japanese dishes to versatile Vietnamese recipes
Chinese pork
one-pot p 61
IN THIS ISSUE
Seven meals under ` 700, p 30
Quick salads for your lunchbox, p 37
Ready in 30-minute recipes, p 38
Sumptuous veggie stir-fries, p 44
Authentic Vietnamese cooking, p 50
Simple Chinese dinners, p 58
Home-style Japanese fare, p 66
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A weeks worth of stress-free, value meals
SHOPPING BASKET
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cr crr cr cr crab ab ab ab ab ab mmmmmea ea ea ea aa eatttt t tt 10 10 10 1000g 0g 0g 0g 0gg
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pe pe pe pe ppe e p as as as as ss aaaaaa ha ha ha ha ha ha ha h nd nd nd nd nndd ndfu ffu fu fuu fullll
STORE CUPBOARD
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ma ma ma ma ma ma ma m yo yo yo yo yoonn nn nn nn nn nnnai ai aaai a se se se se e se
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wh wh whh wh wh wh whol ol ol ol ol ol oleg eg eg eg eg eegra ra ra ra ra ra aain in in in in nn mmmmmmus us us usta ta ta ta t rd rd rd rd
ch ch ch ch cch ch c ic ic iic icc icke ke ke ke ke kkke ke k n nn n n st st st st st stoc oc oc oc cc ock k k k kkkk
do do do do ddo d ub ub ub ubb ubb u le le le le leee l ccccccre re re re ream am am am amm
`697
TOTAL FOR
7 MEALS
*
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*Recipe costings are based on
the amounts of ingredients
used, eg 125g butter is costed
at half the price of a 250g
pack. The store cupboard
ingredients are not included
in the costing; we assume that
these are consumed daily and
do not need to be specially
purchased.
Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs LARA HOLMES
MONDAY
Crab cakes with sweet
chilli and lime dip
These crab cakes are an easy
help-yourself starter with the zest
and spice of ginger and chilli. The
quintessential Southeast Asian
finger food.
French beans 40g, nely sliced
crab meat 100g (try John West
red chilli 1/2, deseeded and nely
chopped
garlic clove 1/2, crushed
spring onions 2, trimmed and nely
chopped
ginger 1/2 tbsp, freshly grated
lime 1/2, zested
coriander 1/2 tbsp, chopped
breadcrumbs 40g
mayonnaise 1 tbsp
egg 1, beaten
sunflower oil 1-2 tbsp, for frying
sweet chilli and lime dip to serve (see
recipe on p 114)
Cook the French beans in a small pan
of boiling salted water for 1-2 minutes
until tender. Drain and refresh under
cold running water, then leave to dry
on a kitchen towel. Mix the crab with
the cooked beans and all the remaining
ingredients, apart from the sunower
oil. Season well and shape into 4 small
patties.
Heat the sunower oil in a frying pan
and cook the crab cakes until golden-
brown on both sides. Remove from the
pan and keep warm. Serve with sweet
chilli and lime dip.
PER SERVING 467 kcals, protein 16g,
carbs 65g, fat 18g, sat fat 3g, fibre 1g,
sugar 49g, salt 2.75g
`700
7
meals
for
TUESDAY
Chilled red pepper
gazpacho
Serves 1 15 minutes + chilling
EASY
spring onion 1
cucumber 1/4, peeled
roasted red pepper from a jar 1 large
+ extra for garnish (try Jamie Oliver
tomatoes 125g, very ripe
garlic clove 1/4
vegetable stock 25ml, cold
olive oil 1/2 tbsp
sherry vinegar a splash (try Dolce Vita
Dice a small amount of the spring
onions, cucumber and red pepper and
reserve for garnish. Now roughly chop
the rest along with the tomatoes. Place
the vegetables in a blender or food
processor with the garlic and vegetable
stock and blend until smooth. Pass the
gazpacho through a sieve and season
with salt and pepper. Chill until needed
(add a splash more stock if you prefer a
thinner soup).
Before serving, stir in the olive oil
and sherry vinegar and serve with a
few ice cubes and some of the garnish.
carbs 11.2g, fat 8.1g, sat fat 1.3g, fibre
3.3g, salt 0.2g
eat in
everyday
INGREDIENT TIP To roast peppers
from scratch, brush with oil and
roast in the oven at 180C for
20 minutes, turning them until all
sides are charred. Remove and place
covered in a bowl of chilled water.
Peel off the charred skin and use.
For a more lling
meal, serve the
soup topped with
fried chunks of sh
or prawns with a
dash of Tabasco
WEDNESDAY
Zucchini, lemon and
mint pasta
rigatoni 75g (try Barilla available at
gourmet stores)
olive oil 1 tbsp
zucchini 3 small, cut into thick diagonal
slices
garlic clove 1, sliced
lemon 1/2, zested and juiced
mint 1/2 bunch, chopped
parmesan 1 tsp, grated (optional)
Boil the rigatoni following the packet
instructions. Heat the olive oil in a frying
pan and fry the zucchini until softened
and light golden. Add the garlic during
the last few minutes to avoid burning it.
Drain the pasta and reserve 2 tbsp
of the cooking water. Tip the pasta,
reserved pasta water, lemon zest and
juice into the zucchini and stir everything
together. Season with salt and pepper to
taste. Stir in the mint and top with grated
parmesan just before serving.
0.7g, salt 0.1g
TIP Add some pancetta or chorizo
cubes to the courgette when frying
for more avour.
eat in
everyday
THURSDAY
Hot chorizo, avocado and
mozzarella salad
chorizo sausages 4 small (try Can Calet
cherry tomatoes 50g
avocado 1/2
fresh mozzarella 1/2 ball (try Impero
arugula or watercress leaves a handful
white wine vinegar 1/2 tbsp (try Cirio
dijon mustard 1/2 tsp (try Roland available
at gourmet stores)
olive oil 2 tsp
baguette or any crusty bread to serve
Pan-fry the sausages until cooked
through and cut them in half. Briey sear
the tomatoes in the same pan, adding a bit
of seasoning, until they just start to wilt.
Halve the avocado then scoop the esh
out with a spoon and place straight onto a
platter. Tear the mozzarella and add to the
platter. Add some arugula, followed by the
tomatoes and chorizo. Whisk the vinegar,
mustard and oil, season to taste and
spoon over the salad. Eat with bread.
carbs 7.7g, fat 58g, sat fat 23.6g, fibre 3g,
salt 2.7g
VEG IT
By substituting
the chorizo
with some
asparagus
eat in
everyday
FRIDAY
Corn and chive cakes
with quinoa salad
egg 1/2, beaten
milk 1 1/2 tbsp
butter 1 tsp, melted
self-raising flour 20g (try Orgran
sweet corn 50g, boiled and drained
chives 1 tsp, chopped
olive oil 1 tbsp
chilli sauce to serve
THE SALAD
quinoa 75g (try Roland available at
gourmet stores), cooked as per packet
instructions
spring onion 1, chopped
cucumber 1/4, diced
mint a handful, chopped
coriander a handful, chopped
sherry vinegar and olive oil a splash
each (try Dolce Vita available at
gourmet stores)
To make the salad, tip the cooked
quinoa into a bowl. Add the spring
onions, cucumber, mint and coriander. Add
sherry vinegar and olive oil, season and mix
together. Keep aside.
Whisk the egg, milk and butter together.
Gradually whisk in the our to make a batter.
Add the sweet corn, chives and lots of
seasoning.
Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan. Add
spoonfuls of the batter and fry for 2 minutes
on each side until puffed up and golden. Drain
on paper napkins and keep warm while you
cook the rest. Serve with the salad and some
chilli sauce.
PER SERVING 548 kcals, protein 16.4g, carbs
71g, fat 21.9g, sat fat 5.7g, fibre 6.9g, salt 1.7g
eat in
everyday
SATURDAY
Prawn and black
pepper curry
green chilli 1, roughly chopped
onion 1/2 small, chopped
ginger a chunk, roughly chopped
garlic clove 1, roughly chopped
olive oil 1 tbsp
cumin seeds (jeera) 1/4 tsp
fenugreek seeds (methi) 1/4 tsp,
crushed
salt a pinch
turmeric 1/2 tsp
black peppercorns 1/4 tsp or more to
taste, crushed with a pestle and mortar
coconut milk 100ml
prawns 100g, peeled and deveined
coriander a handful, chopped
rice to serve
Whizz the chopped chillies, onion,
ginger and garlic to a pure with a
splash of water in a food processor.
Heat the oil in a pan. When it is hot,
add the cumin and fenugreek seeds
and cook until they start to splutter.
Add the onion and ginger pure and
salt, then turn the heat down and
cook for 5 minutes. Add the turmeric
and pepper and stir before adding the
coconut milk.
Simmer gently with a lid on for
15 minutes. Add the prawns and cook
for 3-4 minutes until they turn pink.
Add coriander and serve with rice.
carbs 6.4g, fat 24.5g, sat fat 16g, fibre
1.1g, salt 0.5g
VEG IT
With paneer or
mixed vegetables,
instead
of prawns
eat in
everyday
SUNDAY
Chargrilled pork chops
with mustard greens
butter 1/2 tbsp
onion 1/4 small, halved and sliced
white wine or chicken stock 50ml
wholegrain mustard 1/2 tsp (try
Tracklements available at gourmet
stores)
double cream 1 tbsp (available at your
local dairy)
thick-cut pork chop 1
olive oil 1/2 tbsp
snow peas 25g, blanched
green beans 25g, blanched
peas a small handful, blanched
FOR A LIST
OF STORES
THAT STOCK
GOURMET
INGREDIENTS,
TURN TO P 117
Heat the butter in a pan, then cook
the onion until soft. Add the wine or
chicken stock and simmer for a minute.
Stir in the mustard and cream and
simmer for 2-3 minutes.
Heat a griddle on a high ame. Rub
the chops all over with olive oil, then
season well on both sides. Sear the
chops for about 10 minutes on each
side or until cooked through. Turn the
chops on the side and then sear the
fat as well to make it crisp. Rest for a
couple of minutes.
Reheat the sauce and stir in all the
blanched vegetables until piping hot.
You could also try other greens such as
kale, spinach or cabbage. Season, then
spoon onto a warm plate and top with
the chops.
20.8g, fibre 4g, salt 0.8g
BBC GoodFood 37
eat in
lunchbox
These sassy salads make the perfect light bite. And theyre good for you!
eat in
lunchbox
toss it up
Mackerel and potato
salad with lemon
caraway dressing
Recipe ALLY BRIGHT
Place 175g baby potatoes in a
saucepan of boiling water and simmer
for 15 minutes or until fork-tender.
Cool and cut into halves. Flake 200g
grilled mackerel into a bowl and add
the cooled potatoes, 4 sliced spring
onions, 140g sliced and cooked
beetroot and a handful of finely
chopped dill. In a separate bowl, whisk
together 2 tbsp olive oil, the juice of
1 lemon, 1/4 tsp caraway (shahjeera)
seeds and some seasoning. Pour over
the salad and toss well. Scatter over
1 tsp lemon zest. Pack into boxes
and chill, or eat straight away.
protein 23g, carbs 20g, fat 43g,
sat fat 8g, fibre 4g, sugar 8g,
salt 2.1g
Peanut noodle
salad
Serves 2 20 minutes
EASY
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE
Cook 100g egg noodles
until tender. Rinse and
drain. Mix 2 tbsp peanut
butter, 1 tbsp chilli sauce,
1 tbsp soy sauce and
1 tsp sesame oil with 2 tbsp
boiling water until thick. Toss
with the noodles, then add
1/2 sliced red bell pepper, 1 sliced
radish, 1/2 chopped cucumber and
2 sliced spring onions. Season well.
3.3g, sugar 4.3g, salt 1.45g
Zucchini and pasta
salad with sherry-
hazelnut dressing
Slice and griddle 1 large zucchini. Toss
with 100g steamed French beans,
100g cooked penne and dress with
1 tbsp hazelnut or olive oil and 1 tbsp
sherry vinegar.
carbs 79g, fat 5g, sat fat 1.4g, fibre 5g,
sugar 4g, salt 0.6g

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Mackerel and potato salad
with lemon caraway dressing
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Quick-as-a-flash meals from
all over the world
Ready
in 30
Seared sesame tofu
with noodle salad
Serves 2 4 30 minutes EASY
firm tofu 400g (try Mori-Nu available
at gourmet stores)
sesame seeds 1 tbsp
red chilli 1, deseeded and chopped
caster sugar 2 tbsp (try Tate & Lyle
rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp (try
Clearspring available at gourmet
stores)
noodles 200g
sesame oil 1 tbsp (try Lee Kum Kee
spring onions 4, nely chopped
Wrap the tofu in heavy layers of
kitchen paper, then press gently to
remove as much excess water as
possible. Repeat a couple of times.
Slice the tofu halfway, horizontally
into 2 at pieces. Sprinkle with the
sesame seeds.
Mix the chilli with soy sauce, sugar,
vinegar and 1 tbsp of water. Cook the
noodles in salted boiling water until al
dente and drain.
Heat a frying pan with the sesame
oil until very hot. Sear the tofu for
about 2 minutes on each side or until
golden and crisp. Put the noodles on
two plates, top with the tofu and pour
the dressing over both. Finish with
chopped spring onions.
2.5g, fibre 2.2g, salt 4.16g
To impart more
avour, saut the
noodles in 1 tbsp sesame
oil, 1 tsp chopped garlic,
1 tsp chilli akes and a
pinch of black pepper
before topping with the
tofu and dressing.
eat in
everyday
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Thai burgers with salsa
and sweet potato wedges
(recipe overleaf)
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Thai burgers with
salsa and sweet potato
wedges
Youll love these patties oozing with
Asian flavours. Lean pork mince is
a healthier option for burgers but you
could also use a mix of beef and
pork mince.
sweet potatoes 2, cut into wedges
olive oil 1/2 tbsp + extra for brushing
salt to season
lean pork 400g, minced
Thai red curry paste 1 tbsp (try Real
Thai available at gourmet stores)
red onion 1/2 grated + 1/2 nely diced
coriander a small bunch, chopped
mango 1, diced
Fried sh and tomato
curry
Use any type of boneless white fish
in this south Indian-style coconut and
tomato curry with fresh coriander.
vegetable oil 2 tbsp + 2 tsp extra
onions 2, thinly sliced
salt a pinch, to taste
tomatoes 8 large, roughly chopped
garlic cloves 4, crushed
ginger a thumb-sized piece, roughly
chopped
Madras curry paste 3 tbsp
coconut milk 165ml
coriander a large handful, nely
chopped + extra sprigs to serve
basa fillets 500g, skinned
plain flour 6 tbsp
basmati rice to serve
Heat 2 tsp oil in a pan. Tip in the
onions and salt. Cook for about
8 minutes until soft and golden.
Meanwhile, blitz the tomatoes, garlic
and ginger to a smooth pure in a food
processor. Add the curry paste to the
onions and fry for 2 minutes more.
Stir in the tomato mix and simmer for
10 minutes until thickened. Add the
coconut milk and chopped coriander.
Simmer again to thicken.
Dust the sh in some seasoned
our. Heat the remaining oil in a non-
stick frying pan. Cook the llets in
batches over high heat for 1 minute on
each side, until they begin to brown.
Carefully place the sh in the tomato
mixture and simmer until just cooked
through. Scatter over coriander sprigs
and serve with rice.
sugar 9g, salt 0.8g
lime 1/2, juiced
lettuce to serve
Heat the oven to 200C. Toss the
potato wedges with olive oil. Place on a
baking tray and sprinkle with salt. Bake
for 20 minutes until tender.
Meanwhile, mix together the pork,
curry paste, grated onion and half the
coriander. Season and form into
4 burgers. Brush the burgers with a little
oil, then grill or griddle for 7-10 minutes on
each side until they are cooked through.
For the mango salsa, mix the mango,
chilli and the rest of the coriander with
the lime juice. To serve, put a burger on
top of some lettuce and spoon over some
salsa. Serve with the potato wedges.
carbs 27.9g, fat 4.8g, sat fat 1.6g, fibre 4g,
salt 0.45g
Chickpea, tomato and
spinach curry
This super healthy vegan curry
accounts for two of your 5-a-day and is
less than 200 calories per serving.
onion 1, chopped
ginger a 3cm piece, grated
tomatoes 6 ripe, chopped
oil 1/2 tbsp
ground cumin 1 tsp
ground coriander 2 tsp
turmeric 1 tsp
chilli flakes a pinch (try Keya
yeast extract 1 tsp
red lentils 4 tbsp
coconut cream 6 tbsp (try Blue
Elephant available at gourmet
stores)
broccoli 1 head, broken into small
orets
chickpeas 400g, boiled and drained
spinach leaves 100g
lemon 1, halved
toasted sesame seeds 1 tbsp, mixed
with cashews 1 tbsp, chopped
Put the onion, garlic, ginger and
tomatoes in a food processor or blender
and whizz to a pure.
Heat the oil in a large pan. Add the
spices, fry for a few seconds and add the
pure and yeast extract. Bubble together
for 2 minutes, then add lentils and coconut
cream. Cook until the lentils are tender,
then add the broccoli and cook. Stir in
chickpeas and spinach, squeeze over lemon
and swirl through sesame and cashew
mixture. Serve with brown rice, if you like.
PER SERVING 199 kcals, protein 8g, carbs
18g, fat 10g, sat fat 5g, fibre 5g, sugar 6g,
salt 0.42g
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eat in
everyday
eat in
everyday
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Fish parcels with
tomatoes and capers
p
This simple fish dish shows that
midweek meals can be impressive too.
white fish 2 thick llets, 150g each
salt and pepper to season r
extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp
cherry tomatoes 200g small, halved
tarragon a small bunch, chopped
shallots 2, very nely chopped
capers 1 tbsp (try Fragata available at
gourmet stores)
white wine vinegar 2 tsp (try Cirio
rocket to serve
Heat the oven to 200C. Season
the sh all over. Mix the oil and the
rest of the ingredients (except the
rocket) together and season. Divide
between 2 sheets of foil and sit a llet
on top. Scrunch up the foil to make two
parcels. Put on a baking tray and bake
for 20 minutes.
To serve, sit the sh llets on a plate
and spoon the tomato mixture and
juice over the top. Scatter with rocket.
Spiced vegetables with
lemony bulghar wheat
p g p g
salad
A warm, colourful vegetarian salad
bursting with Moroccan flavours.
oil 2 tbsp
honey 2 tbsp
harissa 2 tsp (try Al Fez available at
gourmet stores)
aubergines 2 small, cut into wedges
red pepper 1, deseeded and cut into
chunks
bulghar wheat 140g (try Tipiak
lemon 1/2, zested and juiceed
mint leaves a large handful, chopped
Greek yoghurt to serve (try Himalya
Fresh available at gourmet stores)
Mix together the oil, honey and
harissa, then drizzle half over the
aubergine and pepper. Season well.
Heat a griddle pan, then cook the
vegetables for 10 minutes, turning until
lightly charred and cooked through.
Meanwhile, tip the bulghar wheat
into a bowl and pour over boiling water
so it is well covered. Let it sit for
10 minutes until softened and plump.
Drain, then pour over the remaining
dressing, the lemon juice, zest and mint
leaves. Season well and toss everything
together. Serve the roasted vegetables
on top of the bulghar, drizzled with
yoghurt.
REALLY R
REALLY
EASYY
TASTE TEAM COMMENT
These fish parcels can be served
as an appetiser as well as a main.
The subtle aroma of tarragon and
the tartness of capers give it a
very distinct flavour. I used dried
tarragon which is easier to find
than the fresh herb. White wine
vinegar can also be substituted
with lemon juice. I also added a
pinch of red chilli flakes in each
parcel for an Indian touch.
Mona Sehgal is the director of
a New Delhi-based renewable
energy company and loves to cook
for family and friends.
eat in
everyday
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Stir-fries make the tastiest presto meals. All you need is a burst of
heat and feisty veggies
wok stars
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Black bean soba noodles
with mushrooms and
cabbage (recipe on p 46)
eat in
modern veggie
Kale, mushroom and
cashew stir-fry
A few key spices can turn a hearty
winter green into a light, Asian-inspired
dinner.
groundnut oil 1 tbsp
ginger a small chunk, shredded
red chilli 1, nely shredded
shiitake mushrooms 150g, stalks
discarded and sliced
kale or spinach 200g (Try Trikaya
green peas 100g, podded
cashewnuts a handful
available at gourmet stores) mixed with
1 tsp Chinese five-spice powder (try
Dynasty available at gourmet stores)
sesame oil 1 tsp (try Blue Dragon
Heat the oil in a wok or kadhai. Add
the ginger, chilli, mushrooms, kale and
peas, then cook for 2 minutes. Add the
cashewnuts and cook for another
2 minutes, then tip in the soy sauce and
ve-spice. Cook for a minute or so, then
toss with sesame oil and serve.
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Stir-fried noodle salad
This wholesome veggie dish is perfect
for a relaxed picnic. Add the dressing at
the end, right before serving, to make
sure the salad doesnt wilt.
kaffir lime leaves 8
noodles 400g
sesame oil 4 tbsp (try Blue Dragon
red peppers 2, deseeded and nely
sliced
carrots 2, sliced into batons
ginger a large knob, nely chopped
spring onions a bunch, nely sliced
bean sprouts 2 large handfuls
tofu 250g, cubed (try Mori-Nu available
at gourmet stores)
coriander a large bunch, stalks and
leaves roughly chopped
THE DRESSING
rice wine vinegar 150ml (try Blue
Dragon available at gourmet stores)
lemongrass 2 sticks
red chilli a small piece
golden caster sugar 2 tbsp (try Tate &
Lyle available at gourmet stores)
To make the dressing, tip all the
ingredients and 4 kafr lime leaves,
torn, into a small saucepan and bring
to a boil. Simmer for 1 minute, then
remove from the heat.
Cook the noodles according to pack
instructions, then drain and toss with
3 tbsp of the sesame oil. Leave to cool,
tossing occasionally so they dont stick.
Set aside.
Heat the rest of the oil in a wok and
stir-fry the peppers, carrots, ginger
and garlic for just 1 minute. Set aside.
To serve, tip the noodles into a bowl
and pour over the dressing. Finely
shred the remaining lime leaves and
toss in with all the other ingredients,
setting aside a small handful of
coriander leaves. Add a splash more
vinegar, soy or sesame oil to suit your
taste. Pile the noodles onto a platter
or a bowl. Scatter over the rest of the
coriander and serve.
Aubergine and black
bean stir-fry
This super-quick veggie stir-fry has
just five ingredients and is perfect for
weeknight meals.
groundnut or vegetable oil 4 tbsp
aubergines 2 large, quartered and
wedged
red peppers 2, cut into thin strips
spring onions 8, 7 quartered
lengthways + 1 nely sliced
black bean sauce 220ml (try Ayam
basmati rice 250g, boiled
salt and pepper to taste
Heat the oil in a wok or kadhai.
When hot, stir-fry the aubergines for
10-12 minutes until golden and cooked
through. Add the peppers and spring
onions, and stir-fry for about
6 minutes until just tender.
Add the black bean sauce and
2 tbsp of water and warm through.
Season well. Serve with the rice,
scattered with nely sliced spring
onions.
INGREDIENT TIP If you do not
have black bean sauce, oyster
sauce will work just as well.
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Black bean soba
noodles with
mushrooms and
cabbage
This delicious veggie stir-fry is packed
with enough goodness to keep you
going through the week.
sunflower oil 1 tbsp
garlic clove 1, nely sliced
ginger a thumb-sized piece, cut into
matchsticks
button mushrooms 250g, quartered
cabbage 1/2, shredded
soba noodles 300g (try Roland
black bean stir-fry sauce 195g (try
Ayam available at gourmet stores)
spring onions 4, sliced
Heat oil in a wok and add the garlic
and ginger. Gently cook for 2 minutes
until softened. Add mushrooms and
cook over a medium ame for 4-5
minutes. Add the cabbage and stir-fry
for 1 minute more.
Cook the noodles according to pack
instructions. Stir the black bean sauce
into the cabbage and stir-fry for 1
minute. Stir in 100ml of water, cover
and simmer for
5 minutes until the cabbage is tender.
Stir in spring onions. Drain noodles,
toss with the cabbage and serve.
eat in
modern veggie
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When choosing a
wok, get one that is
deep-bottomed, sits
well on the burner
and is at least 2mm
thick. Cast iron woks
have excellent heat
retention while
carbon steel ones
are lighter, durable
and suitable for
home use.
Dia cast iron or
carbon steel woks
can be purchased on
websites such
as zansaar.com.
Other unbranded
woks can be found at
cookware stores such
as Saria Stove Depot,
Mumbai and INA
Market, New Delhi.
EQUIPMENT TIP
Aubergine and
black bean stir-fry
Tofu, greens and
cashew medley
Healthy, light and quick perfect for an
after-work meal.
oil 1 tbsp
broccoli 1 head, cut into small orets
garlic cloves 4, sliced
red chilli 1, deseeded and nely sliced
spring onions a bunch, sliced
soya beans 140g, boiled and drained
bok choy 2 heads, quartered
tofu 300g, cubed and marinated (see
box)
hoisin sauce 1 1/2 tbsp (try Ayam
soy sauce 1 tbsp + extra if required (try
Kikkoman available at gourmet stores)
cashewnuts 25g, roasted
Heat the oil in a non-stick wok.
Add the broccoli, then fry over a high
ame for 5 minutes or until just tender,
adding a little water if it begins to burn.
Add the garlic and chilli, fry for
1 minute, then toss through the spring
onions, soya beans, bok choy and tofu.
Stir-fry for 2-3 minutes. Add the hoisin
sauce, soy sauce and cashewnuts
before taking the wok off the ame.
Gingery shiitake noodles
These ginger-laced noodles are just
what you need to perk up cheerless
lunchboxes. Whatever you do, dont cut
your noodles they represent long life!
noodles 375g
toasted sesame oil a few dashes
(try Clearspring available at gourmet
stores)
ginger a nger-length piece, grated
shiitake mushrooms 300g, sliced
spring onions 8, thinly sliced into strips
mushroom sauce 2 tbsp (try Woh Hup
light soy sauce 2 tbsp (try Blue
Boil the noodles according to packet
instructions, run them under cold
water and toss with a little sesame oil
to prevent them from sticking.
Heat the groundnut oil in a wok or
kadhai over high heat. Once it begins
to smoke, add the ginger, stir-fry for a
couple of seconds, and then add the
mushrooms with a splash of water to
create steam. Cook for 1 minute. Toss
in the noodles and cook for 2 minutes
until hot, then add the spring onions,
mushroom sauce, soy sauce, and a
dash of sesame oil.
Stir-fried garlic bok choy
This simple side of garlicky greens is
ready in 20 minutes. Serve with garlic
rice or just eat as is.
bok choy 600g, leaves separated and
halved lengthways
Heat the oil in a wok or kadhai over
a high ame. When it starts to smoke,
add the garlic, stir-fry for a couple of
seconds, then throw in the bok choy
and a splash of water. Stir for 2-3
minutes until the leaves have wilted but
the stem still has bite, then season and
serve straight away.
REALLY
REALLY
EASY
To marinate the tofu,
immerse in a mixture of
5 tbsp rice vinegar, 3 tbsp
light soy sauce, 2 tbsp dark
soy sauce, 1 tbsp sesame
oil, 1 tsp sugar, 3/4 tsp chilli
sauce, 1 tsp chopped garlic
and 1 1/2 tsp olive oil. Let it
stand for 2 hours.
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eat in
modern veggie
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Discover the delicate harmony of Vietnamese food. These classic dishes
walk the line between hot, sour, sweet and salty with effortless ease
Recipes adapted from VIETNAMESE STREET FOOD and KOTO: A CULINARY JOURNEY THROUGH
VIETNAM by TRACEY LISTER and ANDREAS POHL Photographs by MICHEAL FOUNTOULAKIS
Published by HARDIE GRANT BOOKS
a fne
BALANCE
Du phu nu chui xanh (tofu and green
bananas with turmeric) (recipe on p 75)
eat in
weekend
Nem thinh (tofu and roasted
rice spring rolls) (recipe on p 74)
Ayam available at gourmet stores)
shallots 2, chopped
vegetable oil 3 tbsp
water 400ml
steamed rice to serve
THE CARAMEL SAUCE
caster sugar 220g (try Tate & Lyle
water 3 tbsp + 375ml extra
lime 1/2, juiced
THE PICKLED RELISH
rice vinegar 1/2 cup (try Blue Dragon
salt 2 tsp
caster sugar 1/4 tsp + 1/4 tsp extra (try
Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores)
bean sprouts 200g
cucumber 1, peeled and cut into 5cm
batons
pineapple 1/2, cut into 5cm batons
red chilli 1, deseeded and chopped +
1/2, thinly sliced
soy sauce 120ml (try Kikkoman
lime 1/2, juiced
To make the liquid for the pickled
relish, heat the vinegar, salt and sugar
in a saucepan until the sugar has
completely dissolved. Allow to cool until
lukewarm. Combine the bean sprouts,
cucumber, pineapple and chilli in a
bowl. Pour the cooled pickling liquid
over and lightly toss through. Allow
the vegetables to steep in the pickling
liquid for 30 minutes before serving.
To make the caramel sauce, put
the sugar and 3 tbsp of water in a
heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to
the boil over a low ame, stirring until
the sugar has completely dissolved.
Continue to boil, and once the sugar
begins to colour, swirl the pan to
caramelise the sugar.
After 2-4 minutes, when the caramel
attains a deep brown colour, quickly
add the lime juice with the remaining
KOTO: A Culinary Journey
through Vietnam is available
from flipkart.com for ` 2,006.
Vietnamese Street Food is
available from amazon.com
for ` 1,120.
The Chinese
occupation of
Vietnam, which
lasted almost a
thousand years, left
a lasting legacy on
Vietnamese cuisine.
The Vietnamese not
only adopted Chinas spiritual beliefs
of Buddhism and Confucianism,
but also cooking utensils like the
clay pot and wok. The Chinese even
introduced modern ways of growing
the countrys most important staple:
rice! It appears in virtually every
meal, either as a grain or ground
into our used to make rice paper
wrappers, dumplings and noodles.
The century-long French
occupation of Vietnam created a taste
for baguettes, pt and pastries. The
countrys most beloved sandwich,
the bnh m, has a decidedly French
avour. Cofee and crme caramel
are an intrinsic part of Vietnams
culinary culture.
The most important principle
of Vietnamese cooking is the idea
of harmonising the ve essential
avours. To be complete, every meal
needs to have a balance of bitter,
sweet, sour, spicy and salty tastes.
The recipes that follow represent
the food we love to eat from classics
like bnh m to lesser-known dishes
such as tofu and green bananas
with turmeric.
- Tracey Lister, Author
Lon kho tieu (caramel
pork)
Serves 4 1 hour 10 minutes + resting
EASY
The combination of sweet caramel
and salty fish sauce is a favourite in
Vietnam. It is often combined in the
cooking of other fish and meats such as
eel or frogs legs. Pickled bean sprouts
are usually served with braised pork as
the acid cuts through the fattiness of
the meat.
pork belly 1kg (ask your local meat
shop for this specic cut)
fish sauce 2 tbsp + 125ml extra (try
eat in
weekend
water. Be careful, as the hot caramel
tends to splutter once water is added.
Swirl the pan a few times to bring
together the caramel and water.
Remove from the heat and keep aside.
You will require 1 1/4 cup of caramel
sauce for the pork; the remaining can
be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
Slice the pork belly into 2cm strips.
Place them in a shallow tray and
marinate for 20 minutes using the
sh sauce, garlic, shallots and pepper.
oil in a wok over a high ame and sear
the pork. Keep tossing the pork so it
colours evenly and does not stick to the
wok. Add the caramel sauce, 125ml of
sh sauce and water. Bring to the boil.
Transfer the contents of the wok to
an ovenproof glass casserole covered
with foil and cook in the oven for 1 hour
or until the pork is tender. Add a dash
more of sh sauce if desired, and cook
uncovered for a further 15 minutes.
Serve with the relish and rice.
32g, bre 11.83g, salt 7.2g
Ga xao sa ot (chicken
with lemongrass and
chilli)
This wok preparation, originally
from the centre of Vietnam, is now
commonly served in bia hois (streetside
watering holes) and restaurants
throughout the country. Instead of
chicken, it is often made with beef,
pork, eel or frogs legs and no, they do
not taste like chicken!
chicken thigh fillets 5
fish sauce 2 1/2 tbsp (try Ayam
black pepper 1 tsp, freshly ground
caster sugar 1 tsp (try Tate & Lyle
lemongrass 2 stems, white part only,
nely chopped
garlic cloves 2, roughly chopped
water 90ml
spring onions 10, sliced
coriander sprigs a handful, roughly
chopped
THE LIME, CHILLI AND SALT MIX
sea salt 1 tsp (try Roland available at
gourmet stores)
birds eye chillies 4-6 or black pepper
2 tsp, freshly ground
lime wedges 2, juiced
To make the lime, chilli and salt mix,
place the salt in a mound in a dipping
bowl. Add the chillies or pepper and then
squeeze over the lime juice. Stir with a
chopstick. Keep aside.
Cut each chicken llet into 6 cubes.
Marinate the pieces for 30 minutes using
the sh sauce, pepper and sugar.
Heat the oil in a wok or a kadhai over
medium heat and fry the lemongrass,
chilli and garlic. Stir the ingredients for
1-2 minutes or until fragrant. Add the
chicken and toss for 3-4 minutes or until
the chicken is lightly coloured.
Add the water and turn the heat up to
high to nish the cooking process until
the chicken is cooked through. Add the
spring onions and coriander and give it a
nal toss. Serve with boiled rice and the
lime, chilli and salt mix.
4.25g, bre 0.27g, salt 2.3g
Bnh mi ch c (sh
patties with coriander
and chilli in a baguette)
Serves 6 40 minutes + refrigerating
EASY
Bnh m is the Franco-Viet sandwich
that can be found on every street
corner. Vietnamese cold cuts, pork
liver pt and pickled vegetables are
layered between a crusty baguette, a
classic example of the French colonial
influence. On the southern Cao Dao
islands and on Phu Quoc, fish patty is
a popular sandwich filling You could
also coat the fish patties in rice flour for
some extra crunch, then fry them and
serve with the classic dipping sauce.
rawas, snapper or any white fish
600g, de-skinned, deboned and cut
into chunks
gourmet stores)
sugar 1/2 tsp
salt 1/3 tsp
spring onion bulbs 3, thinly sliced
oil 400ml + 1 tsp extra for greasing
baguettes 6 small (available at
speciality bakeries)
mayonnaise 3 tbsp
iceberg lettuce 1, leaves separated
cucumber 1, sliced
tofu 120g, sliced into 2cm chunks
(optional)
coriander a handful
red chilli 1, sliced
soy sauce 1 1/2 tbsp (try Kikkoman
CLASSIC DIPPING SAUCE
fish sauce 3 tbsp (try Ayam available
at gourmet stores)
lime juice 100ml
rice vinegar 1 tsp (try Blue Dragon
sugar 1/2 cup
To make the dipping sauce, combine
the sh sauce, lime juice, rice vinegar
and sugar in a small bowl. Stir until the
eat in
weekend
GOOD
FOOD
STAR
RECIPE
Nem thinh (tofu and
roasted rice spring rolls)
Serves 6 50 minutes
MODERATELY EASY
Not to be confused with Chinese spring
rolls, the Vietnamese versions are fresh
rolls that have a translucent rice paper
wrapping. They are eaten raw and are
refreshingly light. The slightly nutty
flavour imparted by roasting the rice
for this recipe adds complexity to the
vegan dish. Thinh or roasted rice flour
is often used in Pagoda cooking. Much
like Indian temple preparations, Pagoda
cooking forbids the use of animal
products, chilli and garlic.
firm tofu 100g, cut into 1 1/2cm slices
(try Mori-Nu available at gourmet
stores)
oil 50ml
glass noodles 60g (try Blue Dragon
carrot 140g, cut into thin strips
kohlrabi (knolkhol) or cabbage 140g,
cut into thin strips
sugar a pinch
salt 1/3 tsp
rice flour 2 1/2 tbsp, roasted
iceberg lettuce 1 small, shredded
basil leaves a handful
coriander leaves a handful
rice paper wrappers 24 (try Blue
classic dipping sauce to serve (see
recipe on p 72)
Pan-fry the tofu in hot oil until
golden-brown. Drain well on paper
napkins. When the tofu is cool enough
to handle, cut the slices into 1cm-thick
strips.
Dip the glass noodles in some
hot water and remove immediately.
Refresh in cold water. Drain and
set aside.
Heat a little oil in a frying pan and
cook the carrot and kohlrabi until
softened. Season with the sugar, salt
sugar has completely dissolved. Add
the garlic and chilli and keep aside.
Mince the sh and garlic in a food
processor or chop very nely with
a cleaver. Add the sh sauce, sugar,
salt, pepper and spring onion and mix.
Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Using lightly oiled ngers, form the
sh mixture into 12 patties. Heat the oil
in a deep frying pan and deep-fry the
patties for 4-5 minutes or until they
are golden and cooked through. Drain
well on paper napkins.
baguettes for 1 minute, then cut into
half, lengthways, and remove some of
the soft centre. Spread the mayonnaise
on the bottom of the baguette and top
with lettuce leaves, cucumber, tofu (if
using), sh patties, coriander and chilli.
Drizzle with soy sauce and serve with
the dipping sauce.
2.33g, bre 1.51g, salt 1.2g
eat in
weekend
Du phu nu chui
xanh (tofu and green
bananas with turmeric)
Serves 6 45 minutes + marinating
EASY
The green bananas provide a starchy,
almost potato-like quality to the dish.
The tamarind contributes a certain
tartness, adding one of the five
essential flavours (sweet, sour, bitter,
salty and spicy) that the Vietnamese
believe should be present in every
balanced meal. Street vendors often
have big bowls of vinegar or tamarind
as additional souring agents.
raw green bananas 4
lemon 1/2, juiced
firm tofu 400g, cut into 2cm cubes
(try Mori-Nu available at gourmet
stores)
oil 30ml, for frying + 1 tbsp extra
fresh turmeric a 3cm knob
salt 1 tsp
tomatoes 2, deseeded and chopped
sugar 1 tbsp
tamarind pulp 1 tbsp
betel leaves 6, cut into thin strips (ask
your local paan shop)
mint leaves a handful, chopped
Peel off the outer layer of the
banana skin, leaving a thin layer of skin
for texture. Add the lemon juice to a
bowl of water. Cut the bananas into
batons and put them in the water to
help remove some of the sticky liquid
from the bananas.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying
pan over high heat and fry the tofu
until crisp. Drain well on a paper
napkin. Grind the turmeric into a ne
paste using a mortar and pestle. Add
the salt and 1 tbsp of oil. Drain the
bananas and marinate them in the
turmeric mixture for 15 minutes.
Heat a saucepan over a medium
ame. Add the banana and turmeric
and pepper. When the vegetables have
wilted, add the tofu and remove from
the ame.
Add the noodles with the roasted
rice our to the vegetables and toss
to combine. Add the lettuce and herbs
and toss through the mixture.
Dip a rice paper wrapper in warm
water for 1 second. Do not soak the
wrapper as it will turn very soft and
might tear when rolled. Place it on a
at surface. Wait for 20 seconds, then
place a tablespoon of the tofu and the
noodle mixture on the bottom third
of the wrapper. Bring the bottom of
the wrapper up over the lling, fold in
the sides and then roll up. Set aside,
seam-side down, while you prepare the
remaining rolls. Serve with the dipping
sauce.
0.7g, bre 2.89g, salt 0.2g
mixture and cook for 3-4 minutes until
the bananas have coloured. Add
1 litre of water, the tomatoes and sugar.
Reduce the heat and simmer for
10 minutes. Stir in the tamarind pulp
and cook for 2 minutes. Add fried tofu,
betel leaves and mint leaves. Stir well
to combine. Serve with rice or noodles.
PER SERVING: 208.83 kcals, protein
0.89g, bre 3.33g, salt 0.4g
LIGHT SOY SAUCE
Chinese cooking calls for dark soy
sauce for colour and light soy sauce
for avour. Made from fermented soy
beans, wheat and salt, soy sauce is
fairly high in salt.
(Try Kikkoman available at gourmet
stores)
FIVE-SPICE POWDER
One of the most recognisable avours
in Chinese cooking, ve-spice packs
a punch with an aromatic mix of
ground star anise, fennel seeds,
cloves, pepper and cinnamon.
Use it in rubs, marinades,
stir-fries, rice and noodles.
(Try Dynasty available at
gourmet stores)
RICE WINE
VINEGAR
This vinegar is made
from fermented rice
wine. Its a clear vinegar,
sweeter and less acidic
than regular wine vinegars,
and is an integral part
of many sauces (such as
kung po), dips, marinades and
dressings.
(Try Clearspring available at gourmet
stores)
TOASTED SESAME OIL
This adds a rich, nutty avour and
aroma; a little goes a long way. Made
from toasted sesame seeds, it can
FOUR ESSENTIAL FLAVOURINGS
be tainted if exposed to very high
temperatures, so add it towards the
end of cooking. It is also a healthy oil,
high in polyunsaturated fatty acids
(PUFAs).
(Try Lee Kum Kee available
at gourmet
stores)
With just four key Chinese staples in your store
cupboard, youll be turning out feisty dinners in a cinch
Chinese
made easy
Kung po prawns
(recipe on p 65)
Recipes JANE HORNBY Photographs STUART OVENDEN
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eat in
weekend
Five-spice beef and
snow peas noodles
Fancy a Chinese noodle dish tonight?
Tear up the takeaway menu and make
this low-fat, spiced one-pan treat
instead.
minced beef 250g
egg noodles 130g (try Blue Dragon
ginger a thumb-sized piece, nely
grated
garlic cloves 3, nely grated
five-spice powder 1 heaped tsp
chilli powder 1/4 tsp
snow peas 225g
beef or chicken stock 400ml
light soy sauce 3 tbsp
sesame oil to serve
red chilli 1, deseeded and shredded, to
serve (optional)
Heat a large wok, then fry the beef
for 10 minutes until well-browned. Do
not add any oil. Meanwhile, boil the
noodles following pack instructions,
then drain.
Add the ginger, garlic, ve-spice
powder, chilli powder and snow peas to
the browned mince, then fry for a few
minutes more until the pods are bright
green in colour.
Splash in the stock, add the noodles,
then season with the soy sauce, salt
and pepper. Pile into bowls and sprinkle
with sesame oil and red chilli, if using.
Veggie rice pot
A veggie dish with plenty of
seasoning, this is a super-healthy
option for midweek meals.
sunflower or groundnut oil 1 tbsp
red and yellow bell pepper 1
each, deseeded and thickly sliced
shiitake or button mushrooms r
250g, sliced
long-grained rice 250g, boiled
five-spice powder 1 heaped tsp
dry sherry 3 tbsp (optional)
peas 140g
sesame oil 1 tsp
eggs 2, beaten (optional)
spring onions a bunch, sliced
diagonally
light soy sauce 1 tbsp + more to
taste
salt and pepper to taste r
Heat the oil in a large, deep
frying pan, then add the peppers
and mushrooms. Fry over high
heat for 3 minutes or until the
vegetables begin to soften.
Reduce the heat, then stir in the
rice, garlic and ve-spice powder.
Sizzle for 2 minutes, then splash
in the sherry, if using. Top up with
400ml of hot water.
Cover the pan and simmer for
15-20 minutes until all the liquid
has evaporated and the rice is
tender, stirring now and again.
Add the peas in the nal few
minutes.
Heat another frying pan, add a
drop of the sesame oil, then add
the eggs, if using. Swirl around
the pan to make a thin omelette.
Once set, turn out onto a board,
roll up and shred thinly. Tip the
egg and spring onions onto the
rice, and uff up with a fork.
Season with soy sauce, sesame
oil, salt and pepper, then serve.
protein 12g, carbs 67g, fat 9g, sat
fat 2g, fibre 4g, sugar 9g, salt 1.14g
eat in
weekend
Chinese pork
one-pot
This broth is pure comfort food for a
lazy day. Pork tenderloin is preferred
over other cuts since its a lean fillet,
suitable for braising, roasting or grilling.
pork tenderloin 400g, cut into long
thin strips (available at your local
butcher)
chicken stock 600ml, hot
soy sauce 1 tbsp
five-spice powder 2 tsp
ginger a large knob, peeled and cut
into matchsticks
red chilli 1, deseeded and nely
chopped, or chilli flakes 1 tsp
mixed greens (use bok choy, cabbage
and broccoli) 200g, quartered
spring onions a bunch, whites and
greens sliced separately
chilli sauce 1 tbsp (optional)
Tip all the ingredients, except the
spring onion greens, into a large wok,
put the lid on and let it simmer gently.
Cook, without boiling, for about
8 minutes, until the pork has changed
colour and the greens are cooked
but still retain their crunch. Season
well and stir in the chilli sauce, if
using. Serve mixed with noodles and
scattered with the spring
onion greens.
carbs 3g, fat 5g, sat fat 1g, fibre none,
Lemon, broccoli and
sesame roast chicken
Serves 4 55 minutes
MODERATELY EASY
Give traditional roast chicken a Chinese-
style twist with this zesty recipe.
chicken leg 4 portions, cut into thighs
and drumsticks
lemons 2, 1 juiced + 1 cut into 8 chunks
thin-stemmed broccoli 200g
garlic cloves 4, thinly sliced
shredded
honey 1 tbsp
sesame seeds 1 tbsp
sesame oil 1 tsp
Heat the oven to 200C. Rub the
oil over the chicken, then place in
a roasting tin along with the lemon
chunks. Season, then roast for 30
minutes until the chicken turns golden.
After 25 minutes, bring a little water
to the boil in a pan. Add the broccoli,
cover, and steam for 3 minutes until
bright green and tender, then drain.
Tuck the broccoli around the chicken,
scatter the garlic and ginger over and
around the meat, then splash over the
lemon juice, soy and honey. Sprinkle
with the sesame seeds. Roast for
another 15 minutes until the chicken
is golden and tender, and the juices
appear sticky. Drizzle with sesame oil
and serve the chicken, broccoli and
juices with rice.
Mackerel with sizzled
garlic, ginger and
tomatoes
This grilled fish, seasoned with rice
vinegar and soy sauce, makes for a
delicious Chinese meal for two.
mackerel (bangda) 2 whole, gutted
and cleaned
salt and pepper a pinch each
sunflower or groundnut oil 2 tbsp
shredded
garlic cloves 3, thinly sliced
red chillies 2 large, deseeded and
shredded
spring onions a bunch, nely shredded
cherry tomatoes 125g, quartered
rice wine vinegar 1 tsp
Heat the grill to high, or re up the
barbecue. Score or slash the sh a few
times on each side, then season with
salt and pepper. Grill or barbecue the
sh for 3-5 minutes on each side, until
charred and cooked through.
Heat the oil in a frying pan (you can
put the pan on the barbecue rack),
then fry the ginger, garlic and chillies
for about 2 minutes until the garlic
is lightly golden. Take off the heat
and toss in the spring onions and
cherry tomatoes. Lift the sh onto a
plate, spoon over the vinegar and the
contents of the pan, and end with a
splash of soy sauce.
eat in
weekend
Mackerel with sizzled garlic,
ginger and tomatoes
Minced soy pork with
rice noodles
Serves 2 35 minutes + soaking time
EASY
The use of two types of soy sauce
imparts a rich, caramel colour to
the dish.
garlic cloves 2, sliced
ginger 1 tbsp, grated
shiitake mushrooms 3 dried, soaked
in hot water for 20 minutes, drained
and chopped
dried shrimp 1 tbsp, soaked in hot
water for 20 minutes, drained and
chopped
pork or chicken 250g, minced
(available at your local butcher)
white wine 1 tbsp
dark soy sauce 1 tbsp (try Kikkoman
light soy sauce 1 tbsp + extra to
season
vegetable stock 50ml, hot
toasted sesame oil 1 tbsp
spring onions 2, nely sliced
coriander a handful, roughly chopped
rice noodles 140g, boiled (try Blue
chilli sauce 1 tbsp
vinegar 1 tsp
Heat a wok over high heat and
add the groundnut oil. Once it begins
to smoke, add the garlic, ginger,
mushrooms and shrimp. Stir well for a
few seconds, add the mince and stir-fry.
When the meat starts to turn brown,
add the white wine and mix well.
Season with the soy sauces, pour in the
stock and bring to the bubble.
After 1 minute, season the pork
with the toasted sesame oil, sprinkle
over the spring onions and coriander,
then stir. Add the rice noodles and
mix well. Season, then add chilli sauce
and vinegar. Serve in bowls and eat
immediately, seasoned with a little
more light soy sauce, if required.
carbs 63g, fat 12g, sat fat 3g, fibre none,
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eat in
weekend
Kung po prawns
This kung po dish uses peanuts
instead of the more commonly
used cashewnut, but the Chinese
favourite tastes just as delicious.
cornflour 1 tsp
prawns 400g large
rice wine vinegar 4 tbsp
tomato pure 2 heaped tbsp
caster sugar 2 tsp (try Tate & Lyle
sunflower or groundnut oil
2 tbsp
roasted peanuts 85g, unsalted
whole dried chillies 6 small or 3
large
water chestnuts 450g (try Blue
Elephant available at gourmet
stores)
grated
Mix the cornour and 2 tbsp
soy sauce, toss in the prawns and
set aside for 10 minutes. Stir the
vinegar, the remaining soy sauce,
tomato pure, sugar and 4 tbsp of
water together to make a sauce.
Heat a wok until very hot and add
1 tbsp of oil. Fry the prawns until
they are slightly golden, then tip
them out of the pan.
Heat the remaining oil and add
the peanuts, chillies and water
chestnuts. Stir-fry for 2 minutes or
until the peanuts start to brown,
then add the ginger and garlic and
fry for 1 more minute. Tip in the
prawns and sauce and simmer for
2 minutes until thickened slightly.
Serve with steamed rice.
25g, carbs 13g, fat 18g, sat fat 3g,
fibre 1g, sugar 6g, salt 2.07g
TASTE TEAM COMMENT
This was the first time I was cooking with
prawns and I was a bit nervous, but I am
glad it turned out to be fantastic! I couldnt
get Chinese rice vinegar, so I ended up using
cooking vinegar. I doubt it made a massive
difference but I would like to try out the
same recipe once again using the authentic
ingredient.This is a quick and easy dish to
make at home.
Sana Ahuja is a Mumbai-based PR executive
by profession and a chef at heart.
VEG IT
With tofu
or paneer
JAPAN
on your plate
This authentic home-style menu celebrates the exquisite
simplicity of Japanese cuisine
Recipes ACHAL AGGARWAL Photographs ASHISH CHAWLA Props courtesy THE SHOP
and FABINDIA Location courtesy MEGU, THE LEELA PALACE, NEW DELHI
A traditional Japanese meal
clockwise from top: Shogayaki (recipe
on p 73); Nimono (recipe on p 73); Miso
soup (recipe on p 69); seaweed, carrot
and edamame salad; sticky rice
eat in
entertaining
apanese food is all about eating with your eyes.
Presentation and attention to detail, right from the
chopping of ingredients to the nal result on the plate,
are of utmost importance in this fascinating cuisine.
In an efort to demystify Japanese food, Ive created a
menu during my time at Megu, New Delhi that will give you
a peek into home-style food cooked by families in Japan.
The word for meal in Japanese homes is gohan. This
word actually refers to steamed rice, but rice is such an
important food to the Japanese that gohan has come to
encompass all sorts of meals. A traditional Japanese meal
at home consists of a serving of plain white rice, along with
a main dish (sh or meat), some kind of side dish (often
cooked vegetables), soup (often miso soup), and pickled
vegetables. Any leftovers of the day are mostly cured, pickled
or marinated and used for the next days meal. Nothing is
wasted, as vegetables and other food items are relatively
expensive for the common man in Japan. For example, the
traditional Nasu dengaku (see recipe on p 74) or eggplant
with sweet miso sauce, is made from eggplant trimmings and
leftover miso soup. Sugar is added to it and potato starch
is used to thicken the sauce. Similarly, tofu trimmings, with
the addition of some leftover vegetables, are used to make a
tofu patty. Even leftover fruits are soaked in sugar water and
served as a chilled dessert the next day. Umami, believed to
be the fth taste, gives Japanese cuisine its deliciously
distinctive avour.
Before they begin eating, Japanese people say
itadakimasu, a polite phrase meaning I receive this food.
This expresses thanks to whoever worked to prepare the
meal. After the meal, people again express gratitude by saying
gochiso sama deshita, which translates into this was quite a
feast. Most of these dishes are ones that I personally tried and
loved during my culinary training in Japan. Hope you enjoy
this taste of Japan and in the process, expand your culinary
repertoire.
Achal Aggarwal,
Master Chef Japanese Cuisine,
Hyatt Regency Delhi
MAKE IT HAPPEN
We help you navigate the Japanese
store cupboard
Kombu (edible seaweed) by Yaki Nori
Bonito flakes (dried fish) by Eden
Wakame (edible seaweed) by Eden
White and brown miso pastes
(fermented soy bean) by Enso
Silken tofu by Mori-Nu
Mirin (sweet rice wine) by
Clearsprings
Japanese soy sauce by Kikkoman
Togarashi powder (7-spice mixture)
by S&B
Wasabi paste by Roland or King Zest
Uruchi mai (sticky rice) by Blue
Dragon
Sushi rice vinegar by Blue Dragon
Nori (seaweed sheets) by Yaki Nori
Gari (pickled ginger) by Fazlani
Anko (sweet azuki bean paste) by
Shirakiku
Agar-agar (vegetarian gelatin
substitute) by Eden

You can nd these products at
Yamato Ya The Japanese Store in
Delhi, Crawford Market in Mumbai,
Godrej Natures Basket, HyperCity
and Foodhall outlets in Mumbai and
Bengaluru and at other gourmet stores
listed on p 117
J
MENU FOR 6
Miso soup
Nasu dengaku
Shogayaki
Nimono
Tofu steak
Nikujaga with beef
stew and sweet soy
Barazushi
Anmitsu
eat in
entertaining
Miso soup
Packed with umami, the miso soup is
a staple found on nearly every dinner
table in Japan. Traditionally consisting
of a stock called dashi into which miso
paste is mixed, the other ingredients in
the soup vary depending on seasonal
produce and personal preferences.
water 300ml
kombu (edible seaweed) 3 small pieces,
used for the stock
bonito flakes (dried fish) a handful
wakame (edible seaweed) 6-9 pieces
white miso paste 3 tsp
shiitake mushroom 3, rehydrated and
diced
silken tofu 15-18, diced
spring onions a handful, chopped
Make the stock (dashi) by mixing the
water and kombu in a pan and bring to
a boil. Remove the kombu and add
bonito akes. Let it rest for 2-3 minutes.
Meanwhile soak the dried wakame
in water. Strain the stock and dissolve
the miso paste in it. Add the diced
mushrooms and cook on a low ame
for 2-3 minutes more. Do not boil the
soup.
Pour the soup in serving bowls, and
add the tofu, soaked wakame and
chopped spring onions. Serve piping
hot.
Tofu steak (silken tofu
with soy wasabi butter
and shiitake mushroom)
This tofu steak is the perfect veggie
alternative. The silken tofu offers a
textural contrast to the firm bite of
mushrooms and the hit of wasabi soy
butter perks up the dish.
unsalted butter 4 1/2 tbsp (try
President available at gourmet stores)
silken tofu 360g, cut into steaks
soy sauce 15 tbsp
wasabi paste 3 tsp
shiitake mushrooms 3,
rehydrated in warm
water and sliced
In a heated pan, melt 1 1/2 tbsp of
butter and cook the tofu for 5 minutes
on each side on low heat until golden
brown. Handle it delicately as silken
tofu tends to break easily.
In another saucepan add soy sauce,
the remaining butter, 1 1/2 tsp of wasabi
paste and shiitake and stir till the butter
dissolves and shiitake is cooked. Do not
boil, as the sauce will turn salty. Place
the sauted tofu on a deep plate and
pour sauce over. Arrange mushrooms
on top of tofu, garnish with remaining
wasabi paste and serve hot.
REALLY
REALLY
EASY
If unsalted butter
is not available, use
9 tbsp soy sauce,
6 tbsp mirin and
3 tbsp regular butter
for the sauce
eat in
entertaining
Nikujaga (beef and potato
stew with sweet soy)
Serves 6 45 minutes + resting
MODERATELY EASY
In Japanese parlance, niku means
meat and jaga means potatoes. In
ancient Japan, this dish was made from
leftover raw meat. To protect meat from
spoilage, soy sauce and sweet rice wine
were used to preserve it. It was cooked
the next day and consumed with rice.
Adding vegetables makes the stew more
wholesome.
water 1500ml
kombu (edible seaweed) 3, small
bonito flakes (dried fish) a cup
oil 3 tbsp
tenderloin or pork loin or lamb loin
600g, thinly sliced and cut into 2-inch
pieces
onion 3, cut into wedges
carrot 3 small, peeled and diced
potato 3 small, peeled and quartered
sugar 3 tbsp
mirin (sweet rice wine) 3 tbsp
soy sauce 6 tbsp
green peas 3 tbsp, boiled
uruchi mai (sticky rice) boiled or
steamed, to serve
To make the dashi stock, place the
kombu in cold water and boil. Once
boiled, remove the kombu and turn
off the gas. Add the bonito akes and
let them settle down. Strain through a
muslin cloth and keep aside.
In the meantime, heat 1 tbsp of oil in
a deep pot and saut the meat on high
heat until it changes colour, for about
5 minutes. Add onion, carrot and potato
in the pot and saut together. Add
the dashi stock and bring to the boil.
Reduce to a medium ame and skim off
any foam or impurities that rise to the
surface.
Add sugar, mirin and soy sauce and
place a lid on the pot. Simmer until the
vegetables are softened and the meat is
cooked. Serve hot, garnished with boiled
green peas and uruchi mai.
5.3g, salt 1.3g
Barazushi (assorted
seafood with sushi rice,
soy and seaweed)
Serves 6 40 minutes
MODERATELY EASY
Chirashi means to scatter and thats
the secret to making this simple yet
fun dish. This is the perfect meal to
serve guests who have varying tastes
and preferences. You can even lay the
ingredients out for them to choose
what they like.
THE SUSHI RICE
Japanese rice 3 cups
water 600ml
sushi rice vinegar 8 tbsp
THE TOPPINGS
prawns 500g large, boiled
crab meat 300g
salmon 500g, cubed
tuna 400g, cubed
salmon roe 400g (try South Wind
nori (seaweed sheets) 1/2 cup,
shredded
scallions 1/2 cup, nely chopped
Wash the rice and soak for
20 minutes. Drain and put the rice
in an automatic rice cooker with
water or cook in a pan as per packet
instructions. When cooked, place the
rice in a bowl and mix in the sushi rice
vinegar gently without breaking the
grains.
Now lightly marinate all the toppings
in soy sauce for not longer than 2
minutes. To assemble the barazushi,
start by putting about a cup of sushi
rice in a serving bowl, and then
simply add the topping ingredients.
Garnish with shredded nori sheets
and chopped scallions. Gari (pickled
ginger) and wasabi can be served as
accompaniments. You can also make
a thin omelette, shred it and place it
over the rice along with the marinated
seafood.
PER SERVING197 kcals, protein 0.2g,
carbs 51.2g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre
none, salt 5.3g
eat in
entertaining
Shogayaki (ginger pork
with soy and mirin)
Serves 6 30 minutes + marinating
EASY
This dish comprises pork slices
marinated in a ginger-flavoured sauce
and stir-fried to perfection. Roll them
up in cabbage leaves and serve as
finger food.
soy sauce 9 tbsp
sake 3 tbsp (available at speciality
liquor stores)
fresh ginger 6 tbsp, grated
pork chops 300g, thinly sliced and cut
into bite-sized boneless pieces
oil 300ml
togarashi powder (7-spice mixture)
to garnish
Chinese/Napa cabbage leaves to
serve, steamed
Mix the soy sauce, mirin, sake and
ginger in a bowl. Marinate the pork in
this mix for 25 minutes. Heat some oil
in a frying pan. Stir-fry the pork slices
on medium heat for about 20 minutes,
until cooked through.
Serve the ginger pork with steamed
and rolled Chinese/Napa cabbage
sprinkled with togarashi powder.
4.75g, fibre none, salt 2g
INGREDIENT TIP If youre unable to
nd mirin, a suitable alternative is dry
white wine mixed with sugar.
Nimono (steamed
vegetables)
This simple side of steamed vegetables
in a soy-based sauce is the perfect
veggie accompaniment to a bowlful of
steamed rice and shogayaki.
mixed vegetables (use pumpkin, baby
corn, broccoli, carrot, zucchini and
potato) 1.2kg
water or dashi (see recipe on p 69)
600ml
soy sauce 6 tbsp
sake 3 tbsp
Wash, peel, and dice the vegetables.
To make the sauce, mix water or dashi
along with the soy sauce, sake and
mirin and cook for 5 minutes. Add the
Nasu dengaku (roasted
eggplant with sweet
miso sauce)
This sweet and salty eggplant recipe
has all the trimmings of a winning dish.
Serve it on its own as a starter or as an
accompaniment to sticky rice. You can
use a regular eggplant, but the thin
and long ones work better with this
dish as they cook quickly. Scoring the
vegetables ensures they cook faster,
and imbues the sauce with a stronger
eggplant flavour.
sake 3 tbsp (available at speciality
liquor stores)
white miso paste 6 tbsp
brown miso paste 6 tbsp
sugar 15 tbsp
eggplants 6 long, halved lengthwise
sesame oil (try Blue Dragon available
at gourmet stores) 6 tsp
sesame seeds 1 1/2 cup, toasted
green onions 1 1/2 cup, sliced
Place the mirin and sake in a small
saucepan and simmer over medium
heat. Simmer for about 2 minutes to
allow some of the alcohol to cook off.
Then add the miso pastes and stir until
smooth. Stir in the sugar, reduce to a
low ame and continue to cook for
10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
In the meantime, score the skin of
the eggplants in a criss-cross manner
and brush both sides with sesame oil.
Set the eggplants cut-side down on
a baking sheet and place under the
broiler of the oven for about
3 minutes, checking often to make
sure that they do not burn. Turn them
over, and cook for another 3 minutes
or until the tops are a light to medium
brown. If the eggplants still arent
tender all the way through, turn the
broil function to bake at 375C for
2 more minutes; then proceed with
the recipe.
When the eggplants are tender,
top each one with the miso sauce
and put them back under the broiler
until the sauce bubbles up this
Instead of broiling,
you could even use
a griddle top to grill
the eggplants on
both sides.
EQUIPMENT TIP
vegetables to the stock and cook until
they are tender.
Arrange the chopped vegetables in
serving bowls and pour a little sauce
over them. Serve hot as a side dish.
PER SERVING89.5 kcals, protein
eat in
entertaining
should take less than a minute,
so watch them closely. Enjoy hot,
sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds
and green onions.
Anmitsu
Serves 6 30 minutes + refrigeration
EASY
Anmitsu is a simple home-style
dessert served with mitsu, which
means syrup. Just add your favourite
fruits and enjoy this ready-in-minutes
treat.
THE JELLY
agar-agar 3 tsp
water 5 cups
green tea powder 3/4 tsp
sugar 6 tbsp + more, if required
THE SYRUP
water 3/4 cup
sugar 2 cups
lemon juice 3 tbsp (optional)
THE TOPPINGS
mixed fruits (strawberries, kiwi,
grapes, pears and oranges) to serve,
diced
anko (sweet azuki bean paste) 1 cup

Add the agar-agar in water in
a medium pan and bring to a boil,
stirring continuously. Turn down to a
low ame. Simmer until the agar agar
and green tea powder dissolve. Add
sugar and stir well. Pour the liquid
into a at container and cool till rm,
for about an hour in the refrigerator.
To make the syrup, mix water
and sugar in a saucepan and heat
until the sugar dissolves. Add lemon
juice if you like, and cool the syrup.
Meanwhile, cut the green tea jelly into
small cubes and place it along with
the fruits in individual bowls. Pour the
syrup over the ingredients and top
with anko.
none, fibre 2g, salt 0.1g
eat out
Thai restaurants reviewed, Bengaluru's Phobidden Fruit and Pune's Thai House
IN THIS ISSUE
Thai restaurants on trial, p 78
Pro vs Punter at Bengaluru's Phobidden Fruit, p 88
Off the Eaten Track at Thai House, p 90
Prawn and lemongrass
skewers at Neung Roi,
New Delhi p 80
Until a couple of months ago, Thai
was one of the most under-represented
cuisines in the capital. Neung Roi at
the Radisson Blu, Mahipalpur, has
changed that. The restaurant takes
an in-depth look at Thai food and its
regional nuances. The menu is neatly
divided according to the regions of
Thailand: Isan in the north-west, Lana
in the north-east, the central, Bangkok-
dominated area and the southern
coastal part of the country. While Isan
is known for its grills and spicy dishes,
Lana food is more balanced, sans sh
sauce, shrimp paste or coconut.
On our rst visit, we found glitches
in quite a few of the dishes. But these
niggles seem to have been ironed out
by the time we return for a second
meal. The salads are fresh and perfect
in avour. The Som Tum or raw
papaya salad is our touchstone for any
Thai restaurant. Along with the curries,
it is the most difcult to perfect. Here,
the prawn-laden salad is juicy, crunchy
and well balanced. The Yam Mamuang
or raw mango salad is destined to be
a bestseller, with its crunchy mix of
onions and cashews. But it would be
better with slightly tarter mangoes.
For the main course, we try the
Gaeng Onn, an unusual home-style
jackfruit dish from Isan. Semi-ripe
jackfruit is subtly avoured with fresh
dill in this pitch-perfect creation, which
pairs well with jasmine rice. From the
south, we order the Gaeng Krua Pla
Fak Gwio, a yellow curry with sh
and squash. This turns out to be the
highlight of the meal. Thai curries can
be tough to master, not just because
of the consistency of coconut milk
required but also because few outside
the region know which combination
of meat and vegetables goes into each
curry. For instance, duck and pineapple
work well in red curry, but not green.
Similarly, pea eggplants are a must
in green curry, and squash (or white
lauki) goes perfectly in a yellow curry.
When we ordered grilled duck
previously, we found out it chewy and
undercooked. But the second time
around, it is superb. The thinly sliced
With its sensational mix of sweet, sour and salty flavours, Thai cuisine is a blockbuster hit in India.
We put seven Thai restaurants from across the country to our taste test
HOW WE DID IT
There are few cuisines that are
more vibrant on the palate than
Thai. Seemingly simple yet
bursting with avour, Thai cuisine
is the second most popular Asian
cuisine among Indian diners,
after Chinese. Weve chosen seven
restaurants across the country that
are either exclusively dedicated
to Thai cuisine or have the most
sizeable representation of Thai
dishes on their menu.
NEUNG ROI,
New Delhi
Thai
to remember
Ya Ya Yam mm m mPPr Pr Prik k ik ik YYou ouuu o k k k
Pr PPr Pr Prow ow ow((((ca ca aaps pps psic ic icum um um um mmmmmmm um mm
an an anddd sh sh sh shri ri ri rimp mp mp mp
sa sa sala la lad) d) d) d)
The elegantly appointed
table at Neung Roi
eat out
restaurant spy
Neung Rois Gaeng Bpa Pet
(jungle duck curry)
meat is accompanied with slices of
grilled pineapple in a tamarind sauce.
BESTSELLERS
Gaeng Onn, Goong Yang Ha Rod,
Phad Pak Boong Fai Dang.
PROVENANCE
While some seafood and vegetables are
locally bought, a lot of the ingredients
are imported to maintain authenticity.
Vegetables such as kale and betel leaves
and sh such as tilapia are own in.
Many of the meats are also imported,
including Wagyu beef and duck.
GO FOR STARTERS OR PUD?
Denitely starters, given that Thai food
ofers such a wide range to choose
from. To begin our meal, we settle
on PlaYang Krue or grilled tilapia
and Hed Yang or grilled, skewered
mushrooms, both from Isan. Wrapped
in banana leaves, the tilapia llet is
aky and perfectly cooked. We love that
pieces of lemongrass and galangal have
been tucked into the leaves for extra
avour. The mushrooms are simply
done, served with a sweet, slightly
smoky chilli sauce. For those who like
their dessert, the restaurant does an
unusual version of the Tab Tim Krob:
the crunchy water chestnuts are soaked
in strawberry-avoured coconut milk.
You could also try the tamarind and
lemongrass sorbets.
WHAT TO DRINK
The signature cocktail of all Radisson
Blu hotels is called the Blue Sapphire.
A strong concoction of Johnnie Walker
Double Black, Bombay Sapphire,
Drambuie and blue curaao, there is
nothing Thai about this drink. The wine
list is compact and very sensibly priced.
INSIDER TIP
Wed suggest sticking to grills from
Isan, curries from the south, stir-fries
and salads from the central part and
non-coconutty dishes from Lana.
DETAILS
Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi, NH8, Near
IGI Airport, Mahipalpur, New Delhi.
Tel: +91 11 3014 6022. Timings:
Lunch daily 12 pm - 3 pm; dinner
7 pm - 11.45 pm. Starters
` 300 onwards; mains ` 450 onwards;
desserts ` 300 onwards.
Quality: 9/10
Atmosphere: 7/10
Choice: 9/10
Provenance: 9/10
Value: 9/10
Total: 43/50
Anoothi Vishal
Spice Route has been awarded the
accolade of one of the ten most
beautiful restaurants in the world by
Cond Nast Traveler. It is certainly
Indias loveliest and most dramatic.
Wooden pillars, wall paintings done
by temple artists using only vegetable
colours on every square inch of wall
and nine clearly demarcated divisions
in the restaurant, where you can have
a slightly diferent experience each
time. The restaurant was created in
1997 and designed by craft impresario
Rajeev Sethi.
A couple of staf members are
trained to take you for a walk around
the restaurant explaining the ner
points of the architecture. Theres
one rider however: the menu is not
solely Thai, though the cuisine is
undoubtedly their strong suit. Spice
Route ofers Malaysian, Vietnamese
and Sri Lankan food as well. The
chef, Veena Arora, is a veteran in the
kitchen and a third-generation Thai
national from the south of Thailand,
so asking for of-the-menu dishes is
not only a distinct possibility, it is the
norm with regular guests. As soon
as I am seated, I am presented with
two types of crackers: prawn and a
papad-like vegetarian option, along
with an array of dipping sauces, served
gratis. I order a Som Tum Chae, or
raw papaya salad, and am ofered the
option of having it with dried shrimp
and Phrik Nam Pla (sh sauce with
sliced chillies). Though I ask for both,
the trademark Thai blend of avours
is missing and the salad has a ve-star
blandness to it, perhaps because all the
combining is done at the table instead
of the kitchen. On the other hand, the
Tom Kha is rich with thick coconut
milk, and lemongrass and galangal
perfume the stock to perfection. The
Massaman Kai is a south Thailand
dish that is made according to a
traditional recipe here. The chicken is
braised in a curry paste that consists of
fragrant spices cinnamon, star anise
and Thai cardamom so the gravy
and the chicken meld into one another.
SPICE ROUTE,
New Delhi
Clockwise from
top: Neung Rois
regal interiors;
Yam Pak Kat
Dong at Neung
Roi consists of
pickled mustard
greens salad
wrapped in
leaves; Goong
Pan Takrai,
or prawn and
lemongrass
skewers. Facing
page: Spice
Routes Tom
Yum Kung (Hot
and sour soup
with prawn);
Handmade
paintings adorn
the walls
BESTSELLERS
Tom Kha, Pla Tom Som, Phanaeng
Nuae, Massaman Kai, Phad Thai.
PROVENANCE
All the herbs galangal, lemongrass,
kafr lime leaves and basil come from
Thailand, as do the sh sauce and
other seasonings. The coconut milk,
too, comes from Thailand. In inland
Delhi, this seemingly minor detail is
usually overlooked and reconstituted
coconut powder rears its ugly head
in many places. Even the chilli and
Thai cardamom is imported. The
curry pastes are ground in-house; they
are not store-bought. The meats and
seafood are all local.
On the menu, there are just a couple
of starters: Chicken with Bell Peppers
and Roasted Black Pepper, and Porpia,
or deep-fried spring rolls, neither of
which I have tried, apart from the raw
papaya salad. Interesting enough, but
its not even a fraction of what the
kitchen is capable of. The selection
clearly yields to the local palate with its
horror of anything sweet, coconutty
or shy. In the desserts section,
Chef Aroras creations have a Thai
sensibility, and appeal to North Indian
tastes without being dumbed down.
The only two desserts that are also
commonly available across Thailand
are Thub Thim Krob (water chestnut
pearls in iced coconut milk) and
Mango with Sticky Rice. The others
Khanom Saporos (pineapple delight)
for instance, are the brainchild of the
chef. So youd probably be better of
ordering dessert instead of starters.
WHAT TO DRINK
There is a good wine list on ofer,
including some gems that are served
by the glass. My preference is to drink
tender coconut water here, served in
the shell.
INSIDER TIP
The manager and, indeed, all the
service staf know every nuance of
the menu. Do ask for variations they
are usually happy to customise dishes
for you.
DETAILS
The Imperial, Janpath, New Delhi. Tel:
+91 11 2334 1234. Timings: Lunch
daily noon - 3.30 pm; dinner 7 pm -
11.45 pm. Starters and soups ` 500
onwards, mains ` 750 onwards.
eat out
restaurant spy
Quality: 7/10
Atmosphere:
10/10
Choice: 7/10
Provenance:
8/10
Value: 8/10
Total: 40/50
Marryam Reshii
When Koh opened its doors in 2010,
it replaced Czar Bar, the baroque-
style vodka bar in the Intercontinental
Hotel. Thankfully, the designers of
the modern Thai restaurant helmed
by chef Ian Kittichai did away with its
heavy velvet curtains and enormous
chandeliers and infused the new
space with a levity that is in keeping
with the philosophy of the food. The
kitsch-free dcor underplays the Thai
theme, with minimalist elements such
as a single white orchid on every table,
gold statuettes discreetly placed in wall
niches and a framed Thai quote on
dining that lends character to the space.
Its clear from the menu that Koh
ofers a contemporary take on Thai
cuisine, not a faithful rendition of
the classics. The menu is a tapestry
of strands drawn from all over
Southeast Asia: Vietnamese pho
sits besides Cantonese yum cha and
Japanese sashimi. While such a liberal
interpretation of cuisines is usually
fraught with risk, it is carried out with
panache at Koh.
Presented in a heated stone bowl
thats big enough for a family of
four to share, the Hot Stone Roasted
Garlic Rice reminds us of the Japanese
donburi. A burnt garlic sauce is added
to the already fragrant rice at the
table, elevating it to sublime. Assertive
enough to hold its own when paired
with strongly avoured curries yet
mellow enough to play a supporting
role, this dish is one of our picks of
the evening. The yellow Paneang
Curry with Chicken is a sleeper hit.
Made of a balanced blend of herbs
and spices which includes the usual
Thai superstars such as galangal,
lemongrass, kafr lime, chilli and
shrimp paste it is rich with coconut
cream yet not too heavy. We relish
Thai food for its classic combination of
sour, spicy and sweet avours. When
you rst take a bite of the Poached
Fillet of Vietnamese Sea Perch with
a chilli, lime and cilantro dressing,
the juicy and yielding white esh
seems to check all these boxes. But
KOH, Mumbai

eat out
restaurant spy
the overpowering acidity of the lime
tips the delicate balance of the dish.
The mixed mushrooms that come
next share only the most tenuous of
links with Thailand. A combination of
meaty shiitake, crunchy shimeji and
chunky straw mushrooms in a soy and
oyster sauce, this dish draws heavily on
Chinese avours. While it may be a tad
difcult to pin down geographically, it
is a treat for texture ends.
This is a tough call given that there
are compelling choices in both. Our
Yellown Tuna Ceviche has paper-thin
slices of jewel-pink sh dressed with
kafr lime and topped with mint leaves
and fried onions. The dish is the perfect
vehicle to showcase the freshness of
the sh and the textural contrast of the
fried onions, but it lacks the punch of
a good ceviche. A squeeze of lime on
top would go a long way. Aubergines
dont usually pique our interest but at
Koh theyre given a glam makeover
as Chilli Tamarind Baby Aubergines,
roasted to silken perfection. Their
usually vegetal taste is completely
transformed by the velvety sauce, a
sweet yet tangy concoction speckled
with sesame seeds thats good enough
to eat on its own. In comparison, the
Crispy Rock Shrimp Koh Style, one
of the signature dishes, is nothing to
crow about unless youre a die-hard
devotee of fried food. The deep-fried
prawns coated in a thin, tempura-like
batter are bland and need to be perked
up with the assorted sauces on the
table. Given that we have savoured the
pitch-perfect Thai Guava Crumble
and Flourless Valrhona Chocolate Cake
on previous occasions, we consider
the Sticky Rice Mango Crme Brle
we try this time a rare letdown. Kohs
usual restraint is missing in this heavy-
handed reinterpretation of the Thai
classic. Instead of the tartness of fresh
mangoes, the rst mouthful smacks
of concentrated, overly sweet mango
pure. Chewy, whole grains
of sticky rice have been reduced to
mush and the custard has a slightly
curdled texture.
BESTSELLERS
Lemongrass Speared Chicken, Sriracha
Vegetables, 12 Hour Lamb Shank
Massaman Curry, Hot Stone Roasted
Garlic Rice, Thai Guava Crumble.
PROVENANCE
In an efort to maintain authenticity,
most of the produce is imported from
Thailand, including kafr lime leaves,
bok choy and birds eye chillies. The
meat is imported from around the
world the lamb from Australia, the
sea bass from Chile, the basa from
Cambodia and the sea perch from
Vietnam.
WHAT TO DRINK
Try one of the Thai-inspired cocktails
on the menu. We ask for the chilli to
be dialed down in our Thai-NY 10th
Gimlet, made with Tanqueray, kafr
lime and lemongrass. We cant quite
discern the grapefruit included in
the description, but the cocktail is a
pleasant accompaniment to our meal.
The wine list also has some afordable
options by the glass and bottle.
INSIDER TIP
Although the decadent chocolate baby
back ribs are no longer on the menu,
you can ask for the dish to be custom-
made for you. Take your time to
browse through the menu and try the
unconventional dishes. This is where
the kitchen clearly shines.
DETAILS
Hotel Intercontinental, 135, Marine
Drive, Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 3987
9999. Timings: Lunch daily 12.30 pm -
3 pm; dinner 7.30 pm - midnight.
Starters ` 225 onwards; mains ` 795
onwards; desserts ` 395 onwards.
Quality: 8/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Choice: 8/10
Provenance: 6/10
Value: 7/10
Total: 37/50
Vidya Balachander
Its easy to spot the stalwart gure at
the helm of the iconic Thai Pavilion.
Theres a certain hush that follows
Chef Ananda Solomon as he breezes
into the restaurant, stopping to chat
with regulars about the cuisine or to
reinforce his exacting standards in the
show kitchen. One of the rst Thai
restaurants to open in the country in
1993, Thai Pavilion continues to draw
in the crowds with its afordably priced
and high-quality, regional Thai fare.
The only dramatic change to occur in
the past 20 years is the dcor, which
has progressed from traditional to
minimalist chic.
The menu features a few additions
that have been made after Solomons
visits to royal kitchens, homes and
street hawker stalls in Thailand, but the
classics still reign supreme. Our Prawn
Tom Kha is velvety rich from the
coconut cream, with the red chilli paste
THAI
PAVILION,
Mumbai
Clockwise
on facing
page: Kohs
Lemongrass
Speared
Chicken;
Hot Stone
Roasted Garlic
Rice; Crispy
Rock Shrimp;
Fragrant
Thai green
curry. Below:
Vegetable Thai
noodles at Thai
Pavilion;
Green curry
with prawns
holding its own amidst the lemongrass,
galangal and kafr lime. We like the bite
of the straw and button mushrooms
along with the plump prawns, though
were a bit hassled by the otsam of
lime leaves and chewy lemongrass
stems. This balance of avours and
textures sadly does not extend to our
Yum Ma Muang. The raw mango and
water chestnut salad is overwhelmingly
sweet and dashes our hopes of getting a
perfectly tart, sour and spicy salad.
Thailands long coastlines translate
to a cuisine rich in seafood dishes. Ask
for the Crispy Fried Fish with Chilli
Garlic and Holy Basil, a standout
of-the-menu special. The batter-fried
llet topped with the holy trinity of
basil, chopped garlic and red chillies is
the perfect accompaniment to jasmine
rice. Surprisingly, this dish even
outshines the restaurants signature
Thai Vegetable Red Curry. The usually
spicy and creamy gravy is sweet and it
appears that the coconut milk has split,
giving it a grainy texture. A little more
heat would have gone a long way for
this curry.
BESTSELLERS
Som Tam, Prawns with Chilli Garlic
and Holy Basil, Stir Fried Morning
Glory, Red Thai Curry, Tub Tim Grob.
PROVENANCE
Ingredient sourcing is sacrosanct at
Thai Pavilion and Solomon goes to
great lengths to strike a ne balance
between sustainability and authenticity.
Non-substitutable Thai mainstays such
as pea aubergine are imported from
Thailand while vegetables and poultry
are sourced locally. The Thai curry
paste is prepared from scratch and
fresh coconut milk is extracted daily
from coconuts own in from Kerala.
The desserts are clearly outnumbered
by the appetisers but they more than
make up for it with distinct avours
designed to soothe palates. Our
Makroot Flavoured Soft Centered
Chocolate Dollops have a dark
chocolate mousse enveloping a white
chocolate centre avoured with
makroot. The acidic bite of the knobbly
citrus fruit is mellow enough to not
overpower the white chocolate but it
still makes its presence felt. For a more
traditional Thai dessert, opt for the Tub
Tim Grob.
WHAT TO DRINK
Way back in the 90s, when Thai
Pavilion rst opened its doors, the
full-bodied Thai Singha beer was the
beverage of choice. It brought the
bitter, fth element to a table laden with
sweet, salty, sour and spicy avours.
Now their Thai-inspired cocktails and
mocktails nd more favour with diners,
as do the fruitier wines.
INSIDER TIP
This is one restaurant where it pays to
know your waiter, more than it does
to know the chef or manager. The
experienced staf is seamless when
waiting on tables, accurate with food
recommendations and pleasantly
intuitive when you least expect it.
DETAILS
Thai Pavilion, Vivanta by Taj President,
90, Cufe Parade, Colaba, Mumbai.
Tel: +91 22 6665 0808. Timings:
Lunch daily 12.30 pm - 2.45 pm;
dinner 7 pm - 11.30 pm. Other
branches are in Gurgaon and
Hyderabad. Soups ` 250 onwards,
appetisers ` 650 onwards, mains ` 775
onwards and desserts ` 300 onwards.
Quality: 7/10
Choice: 8/10
Provenance: 9/10
Atmosphere: 9/10
Value: 9/10
Total: 42/50
Kainaz Contractor
Visiting Rim Naam at The Oberoi,
Bengaluru, is always a treat. The
archway approach, the stunning
oating pavilion setting, the thoughtful
distance between tables and the
gentle ripple of the lily pool around
the restaurant never fail to pump up
expectations. By day, Rim Naam
(literally, by the water) is a fresh,
breezy sit-out; at night, its a cosy,
dramatic space.
The full warmth of the famed
Oberoi hospitality greets us as we walk
in but the brusqueness of the initial
exchange takes us by surprise. One of
us is nursing a cold, so we ask if there
are any hot drinks we can order such
as a toddy but are rewarded with a
at no. (Later, the junior waitstaf
are more than accommodating with
other requests.) A bit taken aback,
we ask for the wine list and beverage
menu, but over nibbles of the very
addictive rice wafers, served gratis,
nally decide to battle the cold with the
classic Tom Yam. The aroma awakens
our somnolent olfactory senses even
before we can take a sip. Redolent
with lemongrass, speckled with chilli
akes and crowned by perfectly cooked
prawns, the soup is an adrenaline rush
in a bowl. Its excellence primes one for
the feast to follow and, in that sense,
perhaps raises the bar a bit too high.
From the exhaustive grills and
stir-fries menu theres a separate
vegetarian section as well we choose
the Pla Jeramet Neung Manao, steamed
snapper with lime, garlic and fresh
coriander. The simplicity is deceptive:
its a delicate dish, demanding
super-fresh sh, a light hand with the
condiments and perfect cooking time.
Our sh is a tad dry and crumbly,
rather than aky, indicating that it
probably spent a minute or two too
long in the steamer. Still, the avours
are pronounced enough to take the
dish into good but not superlative
territory. The Bok Choy Normai
Farang Fai Daeng, or stir-fried bok
choy and asparagus, fares better. The
RIM NAAM,
Bengaluru
Thai Pavilions
elegant interiors
veggies retain their crunch, the greens
their colour. We also order the Kaeng
Massaman with tenderloin. After the
lightness of the sh and veggies, we
nd the curry one-dimensional, even a
bit stodgy, though the beef is melt-in-
the-mouth tender.
BESTSELLERS
Grilled Scampi, Thod Man Koong
Man Poo, Kaeng Khua Koong with
Duck, Khao Ob Sabparod.
PROVENANCE
To preserve the authenticity of the
cuisine, Rim Naam imports a number
of key ingredients, including sh sauce,
galangal, kafr lime, Thai green and red
chillies, tamarind and pea aubergines.
Do ask ahead if they have the Sticky
Rice with Mangoes for dessert. If they
do, sacrice the starters, which, while
decent, are not exceptional. The salty
rice, cooked in coconut milk, and
the sweet, ripe mango, make for an
explosive combination; we tried it on
an earlier visit and loved it. Since it
isnt available on this visit, we settle for
a Raspberry and Chilli Sorbet, which
works very well as a palate cleanser.
Whichever you choose, dont skip
the soup.
WHAT TO DRINK
Strangely enough, among the four
other occupied tables in our part of the
restaurant, the only bottled beverage
in evidence is Perrier. There are no
drinks that tie up with the Thai theme,
so unless you want a cocktail, beer or
whiskey, water is the best option.
INSIDER TIP
All dishes are made to order, so feel
free to mention the spice levels youre
comfortable with. You could also
have dishes tailor-made to your taste,
provided you inform the restaurant in
advance. They can even create a purely
vegetarian menu minus sh sauce.
DETAILS
The Oberoi, 37-39, Mahatma Gandhi
Road, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80 2558
5858. Timings: Lunch daily 12.30 pm -
3 pm; dinner 7 pm -11 pm. Soups
` 500 onwards; mains ` 700 onwards;
desserts ` 350 onwards.
Quality: 7/10
Atmosphere:
9/10
Provenance:
8/10
Choice: 9/10
Value: 6/10
Total: 39/50
Sumana Mukherjee
eat out
restaurant spy
Baan Thais setting is steeped in history
and romance. Nearly a century old,
the Oberoi Grand Hotel in Kolkata
is better known as The Grand Old
Lady of Chowringhee. Despite having
weathered two world wars, the hotels
battle scars are concealed within its
aura of vintage opulence.
Baan Thai reminds you of an
upmarket restaurant in Bangkok that
well-heeled locals would frequent.
Done up in regal Thai style with
wooden and silk accents, this Kolkata
institution has cultivated a loyal
clientele over the years.
We start our meal with Tom Krati,
a coconut milk soup with a choice of
prawns, chicken or vegetables. Our
soup is thicker than anything youd nd
in Thailand. It has plenty of prawns but
could be a tad more sour, and there are
only faint traces of galangal, kafr lime
leaves and lemongrass. Overall, we nd
it a little disappointing.
The Yum Moo Yang salad with slices
of warm barbecued pork, cucumber,
basil and cherry tomatoes is delicious.
But the pork slices are tossed in what
looks like a gravy rather than the
light chilli and lime dressing thats
mentioned on the menu. Its less a
salad than it is a stir-fried appetiser.
The Chicken Hormok is beautifully
wrapped in banana leaves, the meat
steamed to an almost mousse-like
consistency. Unfortunately, this too
lacks the citrus intensity of kafr lime.
For the main course, Normai
BAAN THAI,
Kolkata
Clockwise
from above:
Marinated
chicken
wrapped in
pandan leaves
at Rim Naam;
Naam Kai Takrai
(Chicken with
lemongrass,
mushroom
and kaffir lime
leaves) at
Baan Thai; Rim
Naams cosy al
fresco space;
Classic Thai
Green Curry at
Rim Naam
eat out
restaurant spy
Thailand are our pick. These include
the Tom Yam Goon, the customary
and now fairly commonplace prawn
soup laden with the feisty avours of
galangal and lemongrass. You can also
begin your culinary experience with
Gai Hor Baitaey, deep-fried chicken
wrapped in pandanus leaves.
For the main course, the Kaeng
Keow Wahn or green curry from the
heart of Thailand is a winner, perfectly
complemented by fragrant jasmine
rice. Redolent with fresh Thai basil and
loaded with pea aubergines, this is a
compelling option in both its seafood
and vegetarian avatars.
So long as you stay within the
comfort zone of the restaurants
signature dishes, you can expect to
have a delightful meal here. But the odd
deviation from this path might throw
up mixed results. The Assorted Greens
with bok choy and birds eye chilli in
a yellow bean sauce doesnt make a
big impression when paired with Pahd
Thai. On the other hand, the delicately
spiced Hed Yang or skewers of grilled
mushrooms on a bed of raw papaya
salad is surprisingly good.

BESTSELLERS
Pandanus Chicken, Green Curry, Pahd
Thai.
PROVENANCE
At a time when it has become
fashionable for ne dining restaurants
to indiscriminately import ingredients,
Benjarong chooses a more balanced
approach. While most of the vegetables,
meat and sh are sourced locally, some
key ingredients such as rice sticks, glass
noodles and jasmine rice are shipped
from Thailand. The homemade curry
paste has been sourced from the same
supplier in Bangkok for years now.
None of the desserts are too heavy.
The Tub Tim Grob or water chestnut
rubies in chilled coconut milk is a
favourite. If you prefer subtle desserts
that wont give you a sugar rush, try
the Sankhaya Fakhthong or delicate
coconut pumpkin custard served with
coconut ice cream. Benjarong sticks to
the traditional steamed version; the
dish gets its subtle sweet avour from
palm sugar.
WHAT TO DRINK
A whole page of the menu is dedicated
to non-alcoholic beverages. Some of
these have a hint of Thai spices, and
most are refreshing on a hot day. Ask
for the complimentary lemongrass tea
an antidote for all those calories, and
invigorating as well.
INSIDER TIP
If you are lucky, the restaurants catch
of the day may include fresh white
pomfret. Benjarong serves a delectable
of-the-menu llet of pomfret fried
in tamarind sauce and topped with
aromatic Thai herbs.
DETAILS
146, TTK Road, Chennai. Tel: +91
44 4211 0061. Timings: Lunch daily
12.30 pm - 3.30 pm; dinner 7 pm -
11 pm. Starters ` 368 onwards, mains
` 448 onwards, desserts ` 198 onwards.
Quality: 8/10
Atmosphere: 7/10
Provenance: 8/10
Choice: 7/10
Value: 7/10
Total: 37/50
Ashwin Rajagopalan
Does your average diner agree with what the restaurant professionals think? Good Food reader d
Reethika Singh and food writer Sumana Mukherjee review Phobidden Fruit in Bengaluru and
come away with surprisingly similar reactions
vs
PHOBIDDEN FRUIT
The quirkily named Phobidden Fruit is a
charming dining establishment that specialises
in Vietnamese cuisine. The cosy, split-level eatery
serves starters such as Vietnamese Chicken
Wings, Mekong Momos and an array of spring
rolls wrapped in rice paper. The menu features
inventive pandan and jasmine iced teas, along
with classic delicacies that include the wholesome
Pho, Banh Mi with a choice of meat or pickled
vegetables, Saigon noodles, Jungle Fish Curry
and Che, a sweet concoction of coconut milk,
mung beans and jelly. The restaurant also offers
experimental desserts such as Lemongrass Ice
Cream and Mung Bean Pudding.
Phobidden Fruit, 965, 12th Main, HAL 2nd
Stage, Indiranagar, Bengaluru - 560071.
Tel: + 91 80 41255175. Daily noon 3.30 pm,
7 pm 11 pm. Average spend for two: ` 1,500. `
Pushy table turning? No ?
Regular water offered? Yes ?
Veggie options? A reasonable selection
THE PRO
Sumana Mukherjee is
a food writer, restaurant
critic and columnist. She
is best known for her
in-depth reportage of
critical food issues.
THE SERVICE
Largely pleasant and
non-intrusive, if not
particularly interested.
Our server answers
our questions politely,
but does not offer any
suggestions or enquire
when we did not nish
our dishes. Our orders are
delivered promptly and
piping hot noteworthy
because the kitchen is
located at the lower level
and it is a cold night. But
the waiter who transports
plated food from the
kitchen makes enough
of a racket to bring
conversations to a halt.
FIRST SS IMPR PP ESSI SS ON II S NN
Casual, laidback, welcoming this
place is just right for Bengalurus
easygoing eating-out culture.
Laidback can slip into lazy though:
we ask for a table for two in an
empty restaurant (they dont take
reservations, so we arrive at
8.30 pm for dinner), are told sure
and then left staring into space, till
I ask if we should take the spiral
staircase to the upper level, only to
be told again, sure. The lighting
may be too muted for some but
the semi-al fresco space makes
the most of Bengalurus superb
weather, strategically placed
potted plants ensure a degree of
privacy and the low-volume music
encourages conversation.
This quaint eatery is easy to
miss on the bustling 12th Main in
Indiranagar. Tucked away in what
once was a garage, it doesnt
boast an authentic Vietnamese
ambience. The dcor is modest
and the seating comfortable. A
touch of greenery and candlelight
(at night) lend a charming and
relaxed feel. After two-and-a-
half years of busy existence, the
interiors could do with a coat of
paint and polish.
Service is a bit lackluster
and the wait between
courses is longer than
necessary. The waiters
bear a casual attitude
and (since we are seated
close to the billing section)
we are subjected to the
constant banter between
the manager and her staff.
THE RESTAURANT
THE PU PP NTER
Reethika Singh is a
home baker with a ne
arts and journalism
degree. After a stint as a
graphic designer she now
runs her own business
called Cupcakeree. Her
other interests include
art, reading and travel.
P
h
o
t
o
g
r
a
p
h
s

K
U
N
A
L

C
H
A
N
D
R
A
THE FOOD
It ranges from good to very good. My never-fail picks are the Viet Spare Ribs,
sweet, sticky pork ribs that beg the use of ngers, and Summer Rolls, cold rice-
paper rolls stuffed with greens and chicken or prawn, and served with a sauce
so delicious it makes me wish double-dipping was kosher. In warmer weather, I
like the Green Papaya Salad or the steamed Can Tho Clams.
With the wind blowing cold and damp though, one main course is a no-
brainer: the Beef Pho, a giant bowl of broth with at rice noodles and thin
slices of beef (veg, seafood and chicken options are also available). It contains
warming notes of cinnamon and star anise, but I nd my soup to be slightly
under-seasoned, notwithstanding the accompanying hoisin and sriracha
sauces. We also try the Jungle Fish Curry where does one have basa if not
at a Vietnamese restaurant? and discover a thin, avoursome curry thats
a world away from the coconut milk-heavy curries associated with the region.
Both display a temperate use of spices thats rare in mid-market restaurants.
With desserts rarely a focus area in Southeast Asian cuisines, restaurants
showcasing this part of the world seldom score with sweet dishes. We order
the Peanut Island and the Mung Bean Pudding. Slathered with coconut cream
and with the consistency of glutinous mash, they denitely take some getting
used to. I nd myself wishing Id ordered the Lemongrass Iced Tea instead.
THE VERDICT
The one virtue
Phobidden Fruit has
mastered over two-and-a-
half years is consistency.
Thats probably the
secret of its success
in the notoriously
demanding Bengaluru
restaurant market. Its a
no-fuss set-up that plays
to its strengths but it
helps if you know what
you want: dont expect
much assistance from
the wait staff.
THE BILL
Mukherjees meal for two
including two starters, two main
courses and two desserts is
` 1,440 including taxes. `
FOOD: 7.5/10
ATMOSPHERE: 7.5/10
SERVICE: 7/10
TOTAL: 22/30
GO AGAIN?
Absolutely. Its value for money
and some of the dishes cant be
beaten.
The menu has several interesting choices with a fair number of vegetarian
options. The starters are delicious. The crunch and freshness of the vegetables
in the Summer Rolls is perfectly complemented by the tangy, hot dipping
sauce. The Viet Spare Ribs smothered in a thick, sweet glaze are completely
moreish. Tender and succulent, they are, however, more fat than meat.
Sides of steamed rice, some salad and potato fritters accompany the mains.
The Viet Red Chicken Curry is delicately seasoned and very avourful. The
Jungle Fish Curry, with its complex blend of spices and ery undertones, is
equally pleasing to the palate.
The desserts, though, are disappointing. The Peanut Island, an overly
sweet combination of banana and peanut, is somewhat one-dimensional and
lacks textural contrast. The Mung Bean Pudding, garnished with slivers of
strawberry, lychee and nely diced green apple, is barely sweetened. Both
desserts have a gummy, glutinous consistency
that I do not particularly care for. To drink, opt
for a Jasmine Iced Tea it has a refreshing
oral quality that lives up to its name.
Singhs meal for two including
two starters, two main courses,
two beverages and two desserts
is ` 1,670 excluding taxes. `
FOOD: 7/10
ATMOSPHERE: 6/10
SERVICE: 5/10
TOTAL: 18/30
GO AGAIN?
For the food perhaps, but not in
a hurry.
This cosy restaurant
is suitable for a casual
meal out with family or a
meet-up with friends. The
food is fresh, unique and
tasty and the portions
are adequate. Space
constraints leave little
room for privacy. The
absence of valet parking
is a downer and the
interiors could do with a
little sprucing up.
Want to review a restaurant? For
a chance to become Good Foods next
punter, email a 200-word review of any
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be the lucky one!
The restaurant's signature pho with seafood Jungle Fish Curry
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Viet Sparee RRRRRRRRRRRRiib ib b iib ib iib ib ib ib ib ib ibb ib b ibsssssssssss
Homey charm
Thai House
Punes only exclusively Thai restaurant stays true to its promise of serving
home-style food in a frill-free setting
Words VIDYA BALACHANDER Photographs CHANDANA PUTTALINGAIAH
Thai Toast
Supreme Chicken
of the eaten track
W
eekend afternoons
WW
are slow at Thai
WW
House, a cosy
WWrestaurant thats WW
tucked away in a nondescript
neighbourhood near the Pune IT
Park. A couple of customers occupy
the functional wooden tables, and the
conversation is a low hum. The relaxed
pace is perfect to notice the details
that you may miss later in the evening,
when the eatery gets much busier.
A teal green wall makes the space
look more intimate than it is, and
in places, the paint is chipping of.
Photographs of various Thai dishes
adorn one wall, while hand-painted
illustrations add a dash of cheer to
others. Assorted knick-knacks crowd
the makeshift cashiers table, including
plastic owers and a toy cat. If this
were anywhere else, you might be
tempted to smirk at the kitschy dcor.
But the absence of pretention is what
endears Thai House to its regulars.
It may be short on ourishes but it
doesnt stint on avour: the reason
Punekars have ocked to the restaurant
for the last seven years.
Thai House is the culmination of
a long-held dream for 41-year-old
Kritsada Khusakul (better known as
Joe) and his wife, Pethchuda Kawchori,
aged 37, who goes by the moniker BB
in Punes gourmet circles. (Pethchuda
means honeybee in Thai, explains Joe.
This was abbreviated to BB, and the
name has stuck ever since.) Joe and
BB, both Thai nationals, moved to
Pune from Bangkok in 2001 to study
at the Symbiosis Institute of Business.
Like the other foreign students who
live in this university town, they craved
the avours of home. At that time,
it was very difcult to get authentic
Thai food in Pune, says Joe. Although
they returned to Bangkok soon after
their course, Joes family business of
importing furniture frequently brought
him back to India. The couple spotted
an opportunity in the lack of an
authentic Thai restaurant in Pune and
in 2006, they decided to move back to
start one.
At rst, their eatery was located on
Dhole Patil Road in the heart of Pune,
but in 2008, they moved to the current,
larger location in Bopodi, a suburb on
the outskirts of the city. BB is in charge
of the kitchen and Joe handles the
business side of operations. The initial
investment required was signicant
and the idea took time to catch on, says
Joe. It was difcult to convince people
about the concept because they were
used to Indianised Chinese or Pan
Asian food, he says. But the couple
decided not to dilute the essence of
what they had set out to do serve
Thai cuisine infused with the robust
avours of their native country.
On the menu, this translates into
dishes such as Nam Prik Ong, a
unique spin on the popular lab gai or
chicken mince salad. Nam prik means
chutney or dipping sauce, explains
Joe. Throughout Thailand, you will nd
several versions of this ery dip with
the unabashed heat of chilli paste at its
heart, mixed with minced pork, shrimp
paste or mackerel, depending on the
region. The version served at Thai
House is an import from northern
Thailand. It features spicy minced
chicken mixed with nely chopped
tomatoes to give it a spoonable
consistency. It is presented in the style
of a Thai chip and dip with lightly
boiled vegetable crudits, including
cauliowers and carrots, which are
served on ice to keep them crunchy.
The Pad Thai, that quintessential
The absence of pretention is what endears
Thai House to its regulars. It may be short
on fourishes but it doesnt stint on favour:
the reason Punekars have focked to the
restaurant for the last seven years
The simple exterior
of the restaurant
Chicken Thai Red Curry
with steamed rice
The proprietor Joe in
conversation with diners
eat out
of the eaten track
rough-and-ready street food staple,
is surprisingly delicate, cloaked in a
thin omelette veil with a sliced lemon
for garnish. It has a mature, mellow
avour, with roasted and roughly
ground peanuts adding a nutty aroma.
The red Thai curry is unusual as
well: you expect a thick curry with
the familiar richness of coconut milk.
But Thai Houses take on this classic
is lighter, with only the barest hint of
coconut in it. In Bangkok, we use less
coconut and spice than in southern
Thailand, explains Joe.
But not everything on the menu
is understated. There are bursts of
vibrancy as well: the Prawn Spicy Salad
features meaty prawns in a pucker-
worthy dressing made with lemon,
birds eye chillies and palm sugar.
Also ask for the of-the-menu special
Pla Neung Ma No, a whole, steamed
kingsh (surmai) or snapper, served
with a spicy lemon sauce, redolent with
galangal and lemongrass. If the Pad
Thai is like a gentle folk tune, the sh is
a rock song. There is nothing delicate
about it: each mouthful is punctuated
with a sweet-spicy-sour sauce.
The one dish that people will go out
of their way for is the fried ice cream.
Two deep-fried, golden-brown orbs
come to the table with a ne dusting of
powdered sugar: one contains vanilla
ice cream and the other, strawberry.
Plunge your spoon into a scoop thats
fresh of the fryer and the breadcrumb
shell gives way, revealing semi-solid
ice cream that is perfectly chilled in
contrast to the warm exterior. Thai
Houses rendition of fried ice cream
is not perfect the breadcrumb layer
could be thinner, and the strawberry
version is not as successful as the
vanilla but it is one of those simple
joys that appeals to all ages.
In the years since Thai House
rst opened, Punes dining scene has
become much more diverse. Speciality
restaurants and microbreweries are
popping up all over the city, mining
into a middle class thats more willing
to experiment with unfamiliar food.
While Thai House is still the only
exclusively Thai restaurant in the city,
diners have a lot of other options to
choose from. How does the couple deal
with the competition? By keeping their
ambitions modest, at least for now.
Joes business model has worked
because at its core, Thai House remains
a mom-and-pop establishment, with
the couple closely involved in day-
to-day operations. With BB away in
Thailand expecting their rst child, Joe,
an afable man who frequently breaks
into uent Hindi, is always present in
the restaurant, taking orders, ofering
suggestions and explaining dishes on
the menu. The couples signature is
evident in all aspects of the restaurant,
from the dishes on the menu right
down to the green ceramic platters on
which the food is served, handpicked
by them in Bangkok. While its Joes
dream to open a branch in Mumbai,
he wants to take it one step at a time.
Maybe in ve years, I will have the
energy for expansion, he says. Until
then, Pune can claim this little treasure
as all its own.
1 & 2, Raviraj Heritage, near Pune
IT Park, Bhau Patil Road, Bopodi,
Aundh, Pune. Tel: +91 20 6620
3626. Tuesday to Sunday 12.30 pm
3.30 pm; 6.30 pm 10.30 pm.
WHAT
WE
LIKE
The Prawn
Spicy Salad
packs in all
the flavours of
a classic Som
Tam Salad
but with the
addition of
plump prawns.
Begin your
meal with this
and split the
Pad Thai with
your dining
companion.
The sweet,
dark brown
iced tea with
longan (or
lychee) is
an effective
counterpoint
to all the
spice.
Top 5 dishes to try
Nam Prik Ong
Prawn Spicy Salad
Pad Thai
Pla Neung Ma No
Fried ice cream
At Thai House, its customary
for patrons to serve themselves
eat away
Fabulous foodie destinations from around the world. Go on a food trip!
IN THIS ISSUE
Eat like a local: Bali, p 94
Budget and Blowout guide to Madrid, p 99
Hong Kong on the plate, p 100
Battle over laksa in Singapore, p 105
Mandarin Lobster Laksa
at Chatterbox, Singapore
p 107
BALI
The only strongly Hindu-influenced cuisine in Indonesia,
Balinese food has a distinct culinary identity of its own
Words HARRY CHENG Recipes CHEF KRISTYA YUDHA
A
lthough a part of
Indonesia, Bali has a
distinct cultural identity,
inuenced in large part
by Hinduism, the dominant religion
of the province. Balinese cuisine has
developed from a similarly complex
blend of culinary traditions. It is a
spicier regional ofshoot of Indonesian
fare but has evolved independently,
assimilating from several cuisines
including Indian, Chinese and
Polynesian.
Balinese cuisine is rustic and
simple, making liberal use of coconut,
sambal and peanuts. Ingredients
typical to Southeast Asian cuisines,
such as lemongrass, banana and
pandan leaves, turmeric, red chillies,
coconut and coconut milk, coriander,
peanuts, shrimp paste and basil, all
feature prominently in the food.
The popularity of curried meats
and vegetables in Balinese cuisine
indicates a clear Indian inuence. For
instance, turmeric has a signicant role
to play in Balinese fare. The simplest
use of the spice is in the preparation
of nasi kuning (yellow rice), a festive
dish avoured with coconut milk.
Soup noodles and meatballs have
been borrowed from China. Ginger,
a popular ingredient used in Chinese
cooking, is also widely utilised.
Known the world over as the Spice
Islands, Bali has had a considerable
Kristya Yudha
is the chef at
Four Seasons
Jimbaran
Cooking School
Bakso
(seafood broth with glass noodles,
celery and crispy wontons)
Serves 6 45 minutes A LITTLE
EFFORT
This comforting broth is a quick,
everyday lunch dish.
mackerel (bangda) 350g, boneless,
skinned and minced
prawns 150g, peeled, deveined and
minced
egg white 1
cornstarch 3 tbsp
salt and white pepper powder 1 tsp
each
garlic 3 tbsp, chopped and fried
water 200ml, iced + extra to bind
salmon or rawas 200g, diced
glass noodles 50g, blanched (try
Shanghi Premium available at gourmet
stores)
white cabbage 1/2 cup, shredded
celery 1 tbsp, chopped
shallots 1 tbsp, chopped and fried
chilli garlic sauce to serve (try Real
Thai available at gourmet stores)
THE BROTH
chicken bones 500g
pork bones 250g
celery 50g
garlic cloves 1 tbsp, fried
water 8 cups
salt and white pepper powder to taste
inuence on neighbouring Southeast
Asian cuisines. The province is one
of the largest producers of nutmeg,
cloves and pepper in the world.
Earlier, spices were very expensive
because they had to be carried by land
across large distances to Europe and
the Far East. But once the sea route
to the Spice Islands was discovered,
they became cheaper and more readily
available in faraway destinations,
further developing the cuisines in
those territories.
Satay (seasoned skewered and
grilled meat, also known as sat) is
hugely popular in Indonesia, while
nasi goreng (fried rice) is the national
dish. Pork is rarely eaten in the
country as Islamic tenets prohibit its
consumption. However, the Hindus
in Bali are renowned for their pork
dishes such as babi guling or a whole
pig stufed with spice paste and
vegetables, rolled over charcoal made
with dried coconut shells and grilled
until well done. Other Balinese dishes
that have found worldwide fame
include gado gado, a salad made of
blanched vegetables and dressed
with peanut sauce, and murtabak, a
pancake with sweet or savoury llings.
Candlenuts, waxy tropical nuts similar
in avour to macadamia nuts, are used
in several Balinese dishes.
eat like a local
MENU FOR 6
Bakso
Satay lilit ayam
Pepes ikan kakap
Kue labu
eat away
bali
y
i
Bakso
Hand-painted doors adorn
many buildings in Bali
Sa Sa Sa ata ta ta taayyyyy y lii li li li liili li li li li litttt t ay ay ayam am am
Lo Lo Lo Lo Loca ca ca caaals ls ls lss ppppppar ar ar arti ti tti t ci ci ci cc pa pa ppa p te te tee te iiiiiin n nn n th th th the e eee M M M M Mel el el el el elas as as as s asti ti ti tti or or or or
so so so sooul ul ul ul-c -ccle le eean an an ansi si si sing ng ng ng nggg ccccer er er e em em emmmmon on on on onny, y, yyy, y, aaaaaaa ffffffew ew ew ew ew ew ewddddddday ay ay ay ay ay aa sssss
be be be be befo fo fo fo fo f re re re re ree ttttthe he he he NNNNNNNew ew ew ew ew ewwwYYYYYYYea ea ea ea ea eearr r r rr ce cee ce cele le leebr br br br br brat at at at attttio io io ioons ns ns ns ns nss ns
THE WONTONS
egg 1/2
water 1/6 cup
all-purpose flour 1 cup
salt 1/4 tsp
mackerel (bangda) 200g, boneless,
skinned
and minced
garlic 20g, chopped c
Chinese cooking wine 1 tsp (try
Supreme available at gourmet stores)
oyster sauce 1 tsp (try Blue Elephant
egg 1, lightly beaten
Combine the ingredients for the
broth. Boil for 15 minutes and keep
aside. Strain.
To make the sh balls, combine the
mackerel, prawn, egg white, cornstarch,
salt, pepper and fried garlic in a mixer.
Mix well and add some water to bind
the mixture together. Add diced
salmon. Make small roundels and place
them in iced water before boiling.
To make the wonton wrappers, beat
the egg well, mix in some water and
keep aside. Now combine the our and
salt in a large bowl. Create a well in the
centre of the mixture and slowly pour
in the egg and water mix. Combine
well. If the mixture is too dry, add more
water one teaspoon at a time, until a
pliable dough has formed.
On a lightly oured surface, knead
the dough until elastic. Cut into two
separate balls and cover with a damp
cloth for a minimum of 10 minutes.
Now cut each ball into four equal
pieces. Roll the pieces into thin 10 1/2
x 10 1/2 inch squares. Cut each sheet
into nine 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 inch squares.
Make the wonton lling by mixing all
the ingredients together. Add the lling
into the centre of each wrapper. Fold
over and brush with lightly beaten egg.
Fry until crisp. Keep aside.
Boil the sh balls in 500ml water on
a low ame for 3 minutes, then drain.
Combine the sh balls with the glass
noodles, white cabbage, celery and
fried shallots. Pour in the strained hot
broth and serve with the fried wontons
and chilli garlic sauce on the side.
Satay lilit ayam
(Balinese chicken satay)
Serves 620 minutes + refrigeration
EASY
This skewered meat dish is a popular
street eat and every Balinese home
boasts of its own recipe.
oil 4 tbsp
shallots 100g, nely chopped
garlic cloves 40g, nely chopped
red chillies 4 small, thinly sliced
ginger 4 tsp, nely chopped
galangal 4 tsp, nely chopped
galangal stem 2 tsp, nely chopped
turmeric powder 2 tsp r
black pepper 1 tsp, coarsely ground r
cloves 2, ground
nutmeg 1 tsp, ground
coriander seeds 1 tsp, ground
white sesame seeds 1 tsp, ground
chicken 1kg, minced
lime leaves 2, nely shredded
coconut 50g, grated
wooden skewers 36
peanut sauce to serve (try Blue
Elephant available at gourmet stores)
Heat the oil in a frying pan and saut
all the ingredients together, except the
lime leaves and coconut. Remove from
the ame, allow to cool and then blend
in a mixer-grinder to form a paste.
Mix this spice paste with the minced
chicken. Add the lime leaves and
grated coconut. Season to taste. Chill
the mixture for an hour. Take a handful
of the mixture and work the mince
around the skewers with oiled hands.
Grill the satay on a griddle pan for 5
minutes on each side and serve with
peanut sauce.
Pepes ikan kakap
(grilled snapper in banana leaf served
with wok-fried vegetables)
Serves 61 hour A LITTLE EFFORT
An everyday dish for the fishermen in
Bali, this recipe is a rustic wonder.
snapper fillets 6, 150g each
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
Bali has diverse geographical expanses ranging from
forests to the beach. The best way to enjoy the languid
pace of the islands is to hire a bicycle and meander
around. Kuta is the main tourist town populated
with bars, nightclubs and eateries. For a more rustic
experience, base yourself in Ubud.
Rice is the main staple of a Balinese meal, along with
an array of vegetables and meats. Traditionally, meat
is expensive and although sh is widely consumed,
locals love simple fare like nasi goreng (fried rice) and
mie goreng (fried noodles, topped with a fried egg) and
satay. Homemade sambal, condiments and other spice
mixtures accompany all meals.
EAT
Drop by Batan Waru on the main Kuta Road for
traditional Balinese food. The casual al fresco restaurant
is a great spot for people-watching. (batanwaru.com)
Sundara at the Four Seasons Hotel Bali at Jimbaran
Bay is a great beachfront eatery to sip on local beers
and enjoy the view with your meal. (fourseasons.com/
jimbaranbay)
SLEEP
One of the oldest properties in Bali, the Four
Seasons Hotel at Jimbaran Bay has well-appointed y
villas, perfect for a tranquil holiday. (fourseasons.com/
jimbaranbay/)
For complete detoxication, head to Como
Shambhala Estate, located close to the Ubud forest.
The destination spa offers Ayurvedic health packages,
yoga sessions and nutritionally balanced meals.
(comohotels.com)
DO
Pick up the ner nuances of Balinese cuisine at
Chef Kristya Yudhas cooking school attached to the
Four Seasons Resort at Jimbaran Bay. A maximum
of eight students attend each class, which begins with
a trip to the market in the morning to stock up on sh,
meat, vegetables and fruit.
MINI-GUIDETO BALI
Traditional dancers at
the royal temple of Ubud
eat away
bali
Tr Tr Tr Tr Trad add ad adit itio iona na na nalll ba ba ba bati ti ti tik kk k te te te t xt xt xttil il il ileeeeee
Pepes ikan kakap
A Balinese statue at
the New Year Parade
Ku KKK e ee e la la la labu bbu b
limes 6, juiced
bumbu pepes paste 1 1/4 cup
(see below)
banana leaves 2 each, to wrap
bay leaves 6
tomatoes 2, sliced
kaffir lime leaves 6, nely sliced
basil leaves 18
toothpick 2 each k
mixed herbs (coriander, mint and
basil) to garnish
lemongrass sticks 6, chopped
THE BUMBU PEPES PASTE
shallots 150g, nely chopped
garlic cloves 8 tbsp, nely chopped
red chillies 3, nely sliced
galangal 3 tbsp, nely chopped
fresh turmeric 2 tbsp, chopped c
ginger 3 tbsp, nely sliced r
lemongrass 4 tbsp, chopped
black pepper 1 1/2 tsp, crushed r
palmsugar or jaggery r 3 tsp y
shrimp paste 1/4 tsp, roasted (try Lee
Kum Kee available at gourmet stores)
tamarind juice 2 tbsp
THE WOK-FRIED VEGETABLES
oil 1 1/2 tbsp, for frying
garlic cloves 1 tbsp, chopped
carrot 1/2 cup, cubed and blanched
zucchini 1/2 cup, cubed
cauliflower 1 cup, orets blanched r
broccoli 1 cup, orets blanched
baby corn 1/2 cup, chopped and
blanched
red bell pepper 1/2 cup, cubed r
white cabbage 1/2 cup, sliced
shiitake mushrooms 1 cup, quartered
chicken stock 40ml k
sesame oil 1 tbsp
oyster sauce 2 tbsp (try Blue Elephant
soy sauce 1 1/2 tbsp (try Chings
To make the bumbu pepes paste,
heat the oil in a pan. Saut the shallots
until translucent, then add the garlic,
chillies, galangal, turmeric, ginger and
lemongrass. Stir until cooked through.
Stir in the black pepper, palm sugar,
shrimp paste and tamarind juice.
Season well. Pound the cooled mixture
using a mortar and pestle or blend in a
mixer until it forms a coarse paste.
For the vegetables, heat the oil in a
wok and saut the garlic until aromatic.
Add the vegetables and stir-fry for
1 minute. Pour in the chicken stock.
Season with sesame oil, oyster sauce,
soy sauce, salt and pepper.
Marinate the sh with salt, pepper,
lime juice and the bumbu pepes paste.
Place a bay leaf and the marinated sh
on a banana leaf. Top with the sliced
tomatoes, kafr lime leaf and basil.
Wrap the sh by securing both ends of
the banana leaf with a toothpick.
Cook the pieces on a hot grill for
about 5 minutes on each side. Place
the wok-fried vegetables on a plate,
and rest the sh over them. Garnish
with herbs and chopped lemongrass.
Kue labu
(Balinese pumpkin treat)
Serves 6 30 minutes + refrigeration
EASY
This pumpkin treat appeals to those
with a very sweet tooth!
coconut milk 375ml (try Dabur
Hommade available at gourmet stores)
sugar 100g
salt 1/2 tsp
pandan leaf 1
vanilla bean 1, split lengthwise
cornstarch 5 tbsp
pumpkin 250g, grated and steamed
water 100ml r
Combine the coconut milk, sugar,
salt, pandan leaf and vanilla bean in
a saucepan and bring to a boil. Strain
the liquid and transfer to a clean pan.
Simmer over a low ame. Combine
cornstarch and water until fully
dissolved, then add it slowly into the
boiling coconut milk.
Once the mixture begins to thicken,
add the steamed pumpkin and stir well.
Cook until it reaches a thick, batter-like
consistency. Remove from the stove
and pour into small cake moulds. Allow
to cool and refrigerate until set.
GETTING THERE
Although there are no direct ights to Bali from
anywhere in India, Singapore Airlines and SilkAir the
regional wing of Singapore Airlines offer ights to
Singapore from nine destinations across India. Other
airlines that offer connecting ights from Singapore
include Air Asia, Garuda Indonesia, KLM and Jetstar.
The Indonesian government extends visas on arrival
to Indian nationals. The visa costs US $25 and is valid
for 30 days, extendable for another 30 days through
immigration ofces in Indonesia.
MENU DECODER
NASI GORENG Widely considered Indonesias
national dish, this fried rice is made with shallots,
tamarind, chillies and sweet soy sauce. It is typically
topped with an egg.
SATAYThese skewers come in hundreds of varieties,
although chicken is the most popular. It is always served
with peanut sauce.
GADO GADOThis salad consists of boiled vegetables
served with peanut sauce. Bland gado gado provides
respite from spicy Balinese avours.
MUST BUY
BALI BATIK These traditional, tie-dyed Balinese
textiles make great wrap-around skirts or wall hangings.
BALINESE WOODWORK Wooden artefacts, kitchen
equipment and tableware handcrafted by local artisans
are good souvenirs to take home.
Balinese Hindu
families at the sacred
springs of the Tirta
Empul temple
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BUDGET
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BUDGET and BLOWOUT guide to
Madrid
Overlooking the stadium pitch, Real Caf Bernabu
serves delicious food. Try the fresh tuna salad (9)
and a aky snapper with a savoury shitake ragout.
(16.00). (realmadrid.com) Say hola to Madrids bull
ghting tradition in the family-owned tavern, Taberna
Malacatn. Try the Madrid speciality Cocido or
chickpea stew (19.50), or cured manchego cheese
( 9.00) and anchovy canaps (2.20), and fried milk
with a wine reduction (4.40) (malacatin.com)
Having nudged its way into the Guinness Book
of World Records as the worlds oldest restaurant,
Restaurante Botin has been serving diners since
1725. Try roast suckling pig (24.2) and lamb (24.2)
prepared in the traditional Castilian way here (botin.
es) The San Miguel Market has stalls wobbling with
gastronomical delights. Sample an assortment of tapas
(1.5 for a piece) or a plate of paella with a glass of wine
(5). (mercadodesanmiguel.es)
At La Cocina de San Anton t , order the house
cocktail (9.50) or choose from a selection of wine,
including Cava (26.80 onwards for a bottle) and Rioja
(2.90 onwards for a glass). (lacocinadesananton.com)
Tucked in the heart of the Plaza Mayor, the historic
Los Galayos Bar and Restaurant has welcomed
patrons from 1894. You can quaf down local draft beer
and wines from across the region. A small glass of wine
is available from 2.00. (eng.losgalayos.net)
Pick up superb nougats or turrns (in a wooden box s
for 22, and in a cardboard package for 16) in avours
such as chocolate, fruit and hazelnut at Casa Mira.
(casamira.es) Make a beeline for the gourmet food
section of the department store El Corte Ingls at La
Castellana. Shop for Spanish and ne gourmet wines
from all over the world, and stop at the many tapas bars
for a bite. Grab a plate of salmon croquettes (9.90)
and a crunchy smoked salad (5.50). (elcorteingles.es)
Centrally located, Vincci Soho is a cluster of ve
historic buildings, renovated to ofer 169 trendy rooms.
A short stroll from Madrids art triangle is the Puerta
del Sol, a shopaholics delight. Doubles from 495.
(vinccihoteles.com) The De Las Letras Hotel &
Restaurant exudes a modern touch while retaining old
world charm. It is located on the bustling Gran Via or
the Great Road, lined with cafs, shops and restaurants.
Doubles from 112. (delasletrashotel.com)
A former bread factory, Pandelujo
ofers Mediterranean dishes interpreted
by celebrated chef Alberto Chicote. Try
the croquettes with Iberian ham (7.60),
or vegetable casserole in a potato leek
soup (14.80). For mains, order the
sh sauted with pok choy(26.20) and
the sirloin steak simmered in red wine
(25.50). (pandelujo.es)
With two Michelin stars tucked
underneath Chef scar Velascos
toque, Santceloni is a must visit. Try
the set menu of local specialties (150
per person) that includes appetisers,
followed by cold cod and leek soup.
Order the Iberian pork Butifarra and
end with local cheese and dessert.
(restaurantesantceloni.com)
Dominated by a Moroccan chandelier
and littered with Philippe Starck-
designed chairs, the stunning Glass Bar
is where you should go for a basil
martini (13) and apple martini (13)
accompanied by a platter of Napoleon
oysters Visit La Terraza del Urban,
one of the best rooftop bars in the city,
for a dose of fresh air. (derbyhotels.com)
Enjoy a delicious dinner with drinks
at the Tablao Corral de la Moreria,
said to be the oldest amenco club in
the world. Tickets for the performance
start from 38.9 while dinner menus
start from 39.9, plus show price.
Treats include warm goats cheese salad,
salmon and ve-chocolate dessert.
(corraldelamoreria.com)
This grand hotel with its magnicent
stained-glass cupola has played host
to luminaries such as Albert Einstein,
Mata Hari and Michael Jackson. The
Westin Palace, Madrid recently
celebrated a century and is an oasis of
old-world indulgence in the heart of
this modern city. Doubles from 605.
(westinpalacemadrid.com)
Tapas andfino in a o tasca or fine dining at a gourmet a
restaurant Madrid heaves with exciting culinary options
Words and photographs NEETI MEHRA
With its scintillating
nightlife, cutting-edge
tapas bars, charming
local watering holes
called tascas and s
thriving food markets,
Spains capital city
has enough to floor
foodies of all stripes.
Dim sum eateries and fine-dining restaurants find equal favour in
hyper-modern Hong Kong, emerging as one of the gourmet capitals
of the world
Words KAREN ANAND
City on the plate
Hong Kong
EATDRINKSTAYSHOP
T
o most of us, Hong Kong
is a bustling business
metropolis we visit to
shop and to eat. Few
people care to scratch the surface
of this port city, which has achieved
economic success on the world stage
despite being occupied by a succession
of countries. Hong Kong may mean
fragrant harbour but you would be
hard-pressed to nd any romanticism
here, except for little glimpses on
occasions like the Chinese lantern
festival, which marks the last day of the
lunar New Year. Usually celebrated in
early February, this is a truly delightful
time, when restaurants and roads are lit
up with lanterns of all shapes and sizes.
The word hong also refers to the
citys major trading houses, which
prospered from their trade with China.
From the late 19th Century right up
to the Second World War, Hong Kong
lived in the shadow of Shanghai, which
was emerging as Asias nancial capital.
But the open door international trade
policy of Deng Xiaoping, who took
control of China after Mao Zedongs
death in 1976, revived Hong Kongs
role as the gateway to the mainland
and it boomed. The boom was also
motivated by the drive to rake in as
much prot as possible before the
city was returned to China in 1997,
marking the end of 156 years of British
colonial rule.
The only visible diference after
the handover, apart from ever-taller
skyscrapers and the constantly
narrowing gap between Kowloon and
Hong Kong Island, is that Mandarin
is now spoken by a larger number
of people (Cantonese is the default
tongue of Hong Kong). There is also
a clear rift between locals and those
from the mainland, who are considered
a bit rough around the edges. But its
evident that even changing hands from
one country to another has not come
in the way of Hong Kongs staggering
success.
EAT
Branches of dim sum eatery Din Tai
Fung (dintaifung.com.hk) have sprung
up all over the world now, but it began
in Taiwan mainly serving xiao long bao,
or small, steamed buns with a hot soup
and pork stufng. The New York Times
has named the restaurant one of the top
10 gourmet restaurants in the world.
I wouldnt go quite that far. However,
both the Hong Kong branches, at Tsim
Sha Tsui and Causeway Bay, were
recently awarded one Michelin star.
What I love about this restaurant is the
Left, from top:
Steamed dim
sum is a classic
favourite in
Hong Kong;
Cantonese
wanton noodles
make for a
hearty meal;
Marinated
meat for sale
at a local shop.
Facing page:
A vendor sells
skewered meat
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simple description of each dish on the
menu, in three languages including
English, accompanied by photographs.
Language can be quite a challenge in
local restaurants in Hong Kong, so
this comes handy. Dim Tai Fung is
also extremely hygienic, and youll nd
people wearing surgical masks making
dim sum in a sterile, glass-fronted
kitchen when you enter. The dishes
to try here include the xiao long bao
stufed with steamed crab roe and pork,
string beans with minced pork, spicy
vegetable and pork wontons, sauted
Chinese kale and the spiced bamboo
shoot and shrimp noodles. The variety
of fried rice and noodles is stunning.
They also have icons to clearly indicate
spicy dishes, various protein groups
and vegetarian options (although there
are only a few of these). A meal for two
would cost approximately 300 HK$.
Be prepared to queue up if you have
not booked a table.
Tim Ho Wan (timhowan.com)
might look like one of the many
nondescript dim sum shops that dot
Hong Kong, but the bustling crowd
outside gives it away. It is regarded as
the worlds cheapest restaurant to be
awarded a Michelin star. As in most
other establishments here, you pick the
dim sum of your choice by looking at
the photos on the menu. A must try
is the char siu bau or barbecued pork
buns. Slightly crusty and topped with
ne powdered sugar that melds with
the sweet and salty meat inside, this
char siu bau is truly sublime. A meal for
two costs approximately 200 HK$.
Lucys (+852 2813 9055) is
located in the middle of lively Stanley
Market, a tourist haven in Hong Kong
Island. Once quite a hideaway, it is
now every expats Mecca for caf-style
comfort food. This brightly painted
Mediterranean-style eatery was started
by an English woman called Lucy in
the mid-90s. While all their dishes are
good, the desserts are outstanding. In
particular, the pecan pudding with
tofee cream sauce (much like the
famous English sticky tofee pudding),
is divine. The food is not cheap but the
experience is certainly worth it. Two
courses for two, including soft drinks,
cost roughly 1,000 HK$.
For a very special dining experience,
head to the Steak House at the Grand
Hyatt (hongkong.grand.hyatt.com).
They have a beautiful bar adjoining the
restaurant that is very American in its
inspiration. But you can do more than
just have a drink here. The appetisers
are classic and of excellent quality.
Try the Baked Oysters Rockefeller or
half a dozen oysters on ice, own in
from France. The Bloody Bourbon,
Oyster Shooters and Washington Apple
martinis have now become signature
favourites. When it comes to meat
matters, main courses are served on a
wooden board and are simply sprinkled
with sea salt. You have a choice of
Nebraska Prime Beef, Canadian Angus
and Japanese Wagyu short and sweet,
but enough to keep any carnivore
happy. We order the Canadian 28 oz
T-bone, which is easily enough for two,
served with lovely, crisp shoestring fries
and thick potato wedges fried in duck
fat. A meal for two with appetisers
and a cocktail costs approximately
1,500 HK$.
Agns B seems to be synonymous
with Hong Kong you will nd the
name everywhere, from fashion to
food to the travel purses on Cathay
Pacic. But the brand is a decidedly
Parisian one. Le Pain Grille (agnesb-
lepaingrille.com) is a small French
restaurant located inside the Agns
B store in Central. The dcor is quite
precious, and the ptisserie is pretty to
match. We opt for a platter of exquisite
morsels, including strawberry tarts,
vanilla bavarois, dlices with chocolate
and raspberry and chestnut and
marshmallow. All of them are delectable
little mouthfuls. A snack should cost
200 HK$ for two with tea or cofee.
For a dose of old world glamour in
a setting steeped in history, queue up
for the afternoon tea at the Peninsula
Hotel (peninsula.com), the grand
dame of hotels in Hong Kong. It isnt
uncommon to see a serpentine line of
locals and tourists waiting to sample
the spread, which is served on the
ground oor of the hotel. Apart from
a variety of teas and cofees, the treats
on ofer include mini quiches, scones,
nger sandwiches and pastries. The
high ceilings and striking Neo-Classical
architecture evoke a bygone era while
a string quartet adds to the sense of
ceremony. The Peninsula also recently
revived its tradition of afternoon tea
dances, which further heightens the
experience. Tea for two costs roughly
400 HK$.
Anything French is regarded as
very special in this city. French chefs
rule the roost in Hong Kong. The
renowned French restaurants include
LAtelier de Joel Robouchon, Spoon
by Alain Ducasse, Pierre by Pierre
Gagnaire and Caprice at the Four
Seasons. Adding to this hallowed list
is the recently reopened Hugo at
the Hyatt Regency in Tsim Sha Tsui
(hongkong.tsimshatsui.hyatt.com). It
is an old-fashioned French restaurant
that has been revived after 36 years.
The dcor is heavy and opulent,
with a new marble-top open kitchen,
traditional silver Christophe trolleys
from the 1960s, a beef wagon, cheese
and dessert trolleys and eight guridon
trolleys that revive the ceremonious
art of tableside preparation of dishes
like Caesar salad, steak tartare, prawns
amb and bombe Alaska. The
atmosphere is a bit theatrical but it
works. Hugos chocolate bon bons lled
with ice cream are a huge favourite. If
you want to try any fancy European
preparations or ingredients such as
Scottish Loch Fyne salmon, French
Bayonne ham, escargot (or snails) foie
gras, lobster bisque, sole meunire
and steak au poivre, this is clearly the
place to do it. A lavish, no-holds-barred
dinner for two will probably set you
back by around 1,500 to 2,000 HK$,
without wine. A good way to enjoy
all the signature dishes is to opt for the
Sunday brunch, which includes a lot
of these specialities at just over
500 HK$ per person.
With just eight small tables, Cepage
(lesamis.com.sg) is more like a private
Clockwise,
from top:
Hugos opulent
interiors;
Bombe Alaska
consists of a
biscuit base and
meringue filled
with hazelnut
and chocolate
ice cream; The
entrance to
Steak House;
An array of
dumplings
and rice paper
wraps. Facing
page: The
Dragontini
cocktail at
Ozone; Le Pain
Grille stocks
imported wines;
Skyscrapers dot
Hong Kongs
skyline
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dining room than a commercial
establishment. Like the mothership,
Les Amis in Singapore, Cepage (which
refers to a blend of wine grapes) is a
quintessentially quiet French restaurant
with a wine list the size of a book. If
you want a ne dining experience in
understated elegance, look no further.
Vinum, on the ground oor, is their
wine cellar and retail store for serious
wine buyers. Set lunches are great
value at 320 HK$ for two courses and
390 HK$ for three. The four-course
Gourmand lunch is for 500 HK$.
Chilli Fegara is the ideal spot
to begin your discovery of Sichuan
cooking. You cant get a more
convenient location one of the major
streets in the Lan Kwai Fong party
area of Central HK (Shop E, No 51 A
Graham St, Central. Tel: + 852 2893
3330). There are about eight tables
squeezed into a tiny space (real estate
is clearly at a premium here) but the
service is smart, informed and smiling
not a given in this city. Order the
jade vegetables: a dish made with the
stems of a vegetable that resembles the
translucent green stone. The vegetable
dumplings in spicy peanut sauce
and the deep-fried green beans in a
dry chilli rub are both winners. The
fried eggplant comes drenched in a
wonderful sauce that is sour, salty and
spicy. Plough on with the chilli chicken,
which is quite diferent to the Indian
version served in a claypot and tossed
with plenty of dry red chillies. This is
a great place for those who love spice,
and there are plenty of options for
vegetarians.
DRINK
New York may be the city that never
sleeps but it could just as easily apply
to Hong Kong, which is truly the NYC
of the East. While theres no shortage
of ashy cocktail bars for fashionistas
and whiskey bars for malt acionados,
there are also areas like Stone Nullah in
Wan Chai and Kennedy Town, on the
north-west of the island, both crammed
with interesting and very reasonably
priced restaurants and bars where
normal folks hang out. Kennedy Town
has no MTR (train) access, so youll
have to cab it. A good place to start is
the Lang Kwai Fong on HK island. In
this high-rise city, my preference is bars
with a view.
Sugar is on the 32ndoor of the
lifestyle hotel, East (32/F, East Hotel,
29 Taikoo Shing Road, Tai Koo). This
laid-back bar is a big hit with Hong
Kong hipsters and in-the-know expats.
Its all about sinking into one of the
squishy sofas with some good friends
and a couple of cocktails.
Owned by Chanels former Asia
Pacic communications director
and Hong Kong style icon, Bonnie
Gokson, Sevva is a penthouse bar
on the top of the prestigious Princes
Building (Princes Building, 25th Floor,
10 Charter Road, Central). It has a
wraparound terrace with sensational
views of Sir Norman Fosters HSBC
building, I.M. Peis China Bank and the
sparkling city and harbour. Elbow your
way past the bankers and beautiful
people, bag a spot on the gorgeous
terrace and savour the moment.
Ozone at the Ritz-Carlton is
the ultimate al fresco experience. Take
the leather-clad elevator to the 118th
oor of the worlds tallest hotel. Dont
come here if you have vertigo. Prices
are steep too. Your head wont be the
only thing thats lighter when you leave
but you have to do this at least once.
(118/F, The Ritz-Carlton, International
Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road,
Kowloon)
Armani/Prive: Come six oclock,
Hong Kongs suits spill out of Centrals
skyscrapers for a stylish post-work
drink on thetres chic terrace at Armani/
Prive (2/F Charter House, 8 Con- (2/F Charter House, 8 Con-
naught Road, Central). One of only
four Armani/Prive bars in the world
(the others are inMilan, Dubai and
Tokyo), this split-level bar and night-
club is buzzing by sundown. Try and
bag a table on the terrace (be warned,
theres a hefty minimum spend). The
signature cocktails are noteworthy try
the Amore, a luscious combination of
Ice Fox vodka, limoncello and fresh
raspberries but champagne is the
default drink. P
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STAY
There are too many good hotels in
Hong Kong to recommend any one.
The old-timers on the block, such
as the Peninsula, Grand Hyatt, Marriott
and so on, are still doing great business,
especially when there is a conference
or trade-related event in town. A
new hotel making waves in the city is
Upper House (upperhouse.com), an
ultra-modern yet low-key luxury hotel
that is not afliated to any hotel chain.
The Ritz-Carlton (ritzcarlton.
com) is every bit as stunning as you
would expect. Deluxe rooms start from
4,000 HK$ for double occupancy.
Nearby, in Kowloon, the cutting
edge W Hotel (w-hongkong.com)
marries striking, Manhattan-inspired
dcor with spectacular Oriental chic.
This is denitely a happening address
in town.
My old-time
favourite would
be the Mandarin
Oriental
(mandarinoriental.
com/ HongKong).
It has been around
for 50 years and is
very conveniently
located on
Connaught Road
in Central. It has
beautiful rooms
overlooking the
Victoria Harbour,
linen bed sheets,
goose down pillows
and Herms body products. Apart
from all this pampering, the food is
also spectacular. The restaurant boasts
10 outstanding dining spaces and
bars, which includes two outstanding
restaurants Pierre and Man Wah,
one of the best Cantonese restaurants
in the city. This is the only hotel in
Hong Kong to have an exclusive dining
room created in partnership with
Krug champagne. The sophisticated
12-seater restaurant is inspired by
a train carriage with views of the
open kitchen.
SHOP
Olivers (Shop 201-205, 2/F, Princes
Building, 10 Charter Road) in Central
is a deli and gourmet shop with a
fancy concierge service, personal
shopper service and online store with
delivery. Prices are steep but youll
nd everything the gourmet world
has to ofer, from ne wines to rare
cognacs and trufes, as well as the
more mundane cold cuts, cheeses and
imported fruit. Other popular gourmet
addresses are City Super(citysuper.
com.hk), a European style
supermarket with imported products,
and Market Place by Jasons
(marketplacebyjasons.com) a gourmet
supermarket with great fresh fruit,
vegetable and seafood counters as well
as a comprehensive organic section.
Everyone seems to make a beeline
for the ladies market in Hong Kong,
but I prefer to browse at the Jade
Market (Junction of Kansu Street
and Battery Street, Yau Ma Tei,
Kowloon). Not only do you get an
enormous variety of jade at diferent
price points but also a whole bunch
of semi-precious stones, such as onyx,
labradorite and coral at throwaway
prices. If you have the patience, you
can even get them designed and
strung while you wait. This is
a treasure trove for amateur
jewellery designers.
By Hong Kong standards, the Sum
Ngai Brass Factory (sumngaibrass.
com) located in the New Territories
is a bit of a trek and you will probably
need a car or a cab to get you there. It
is worth the trip for everything brass,
from artefacts and lamp stands to
outdoor furniture. I bought a Chinese
replica of an antique wooden jewellery
box for 500 HK$. They also carefully
package their products for air travel
and even export them if you cant
carry your recently acquired ve-foot
Chinese warrior on the plane!
If Hong Kong gets a bit
claustrophobic, Stanley Market is a
good place for a bit of fresh air, some
interesting shopping and a walk by
the beach. You dont need a car to get
here, as there are direct buses from
the city to the middle of the market.
Apart from the usual souvenirs and
Chinese silk blouses, there are a
couple of garment shops selling great
linen outts for women at incredibly
reasonable prices. Vivid Linen
(+852 2723 1000) looks like a
designer store, but stocks clothes at
competitive prices.
Muji (muji.com.hk) is a Japanese
store that is an aesthetes dream. It
stocks unbranded but high quality
goods, including apparel, home
accessories, furniture, kitchen items,
health and beauty products, stationery
and amazing travel gadgets. The
designs are simple and practical and
the nish is impeccable. If you enjoy
good design minus embellishments,
you are sure to love this brand. Hong
Kong has 10 stores, the largest of
which is on Nathan Road in Tsim
Sha Tsui.
From top: Man
Wah is one
of the best
Cantonese
restaurants in
the city; The
Jade Market
is replete with
stalls selling
baubles made of
semi-precious
stones
laksa
Words and photographs KAREN ANAND
Food writer,
entrepreneur
and gourmet,
Karen Anand
has journeyed
across
the world
writing about
gastronomy.
Karen Anand sets out to explore Singapores infamous
laksa wars and comes away rather underwhelmed
hats all the fuss
about a bowl of
noodle soup, I
wonder? Laksa (rice
noodle soup) is to the Singaporeans
and the Malays what tandoori chicken
is to us. Its sacred you cant touch
it, criticise it or muck around with the
recipes. Many a quarrel centres around
who serves the best laksa and what it
must contain to be deemed authentic.
Laksa tops my list of comfort foods,
at times even surpassing a good plate
of homemade French fries or a bowl
of hot dal chawal. It possesses what
gourmands now refer to as umami, an
indescribable taste which combines
spicy (from the red chillies), slightly
sweet (from the coconut milk), salty
(from the seafood and dried shrimp)
and tangy (from lemon or tamarind).
You cant stop eating it once you start
it really hits the spot.
The origin of the word laksa is
unclear. While one theorytraces it back
to the Hindi or Persian word lakhshah,
referring to a type ofvermicelli, it is
also suggested that laksa is derived
from a Cantonese word that means
spicy sand due to the ground,
dried prawns that impart a sandy or
gritty texture to the gravy. Another
theorymaintains that the name
comes from a similar sounding word,
meaning dirty in Hokkien, due to its
rustic appearance. Lastly, it could have
something to do with the inimitable
avour of the aromatic laksa leaves
used as a garnish.
So, what is a laksa? It can vary in
consistency from a thin, soupy gravy
to a slightly thicker, curry-like version.
Laksa should always include bean
sprouts, white noodles, some shrimp,
and sometimes hard-boiled egg and
fried tofu. There are two basic types of
laksa:curry laksaandasam laksa. The
former is a coconut curry soup with
noodles, while the latter is a sour sh
soup with noodles.
Asam laksa is ranked seventh
on the list ofWorlds 50 Most
Delicious Foodscompiled by travel s
websiteCNNGo.comin 2011. The
main ingredients for asam laksa are
shredded sh (usuallymackerel),
pineapple, nely sliced vegetables such
as cucumber, onions and lettuce, and
herbs and spices such as mint, laksa
leaves (also known as Vietnamese
mint, Vietnamese coriander or laksa
mint), red chillies and pinktorch
ginger. Thick rice noodles known
aslaksa noodlesare most commonly
used, though thinrice vermicelli
(bee hoonormee hoon) can also be
used. The main components of most
versions of curry laksa include bean
curd or tofu, sh sticks, shrimp
and cockles. Some vendors also
sellchicken laksa. Both asam laksa and
curry laksa are served with a spoonful
ofsambal chilli paste and garnished
withlaksa leaves.
Laksa has two main variants. Laksa
lemak orNonya laksa is characterised
by athick coconut gravy. Lemak, in
Malay, describescoconut milk, which
lends a distinctive richness, and a slight
sweetness to the gravy. Katong laksais a g
variant of laksa lemak from theKatong
area ofSingapore. The noodles are
usually cut into shorter strands so that
the dish can be eaten with a spoon
alone, without using chopsticks or
a fork. Katong laksa can almost be g
considered Singapores national dish.
Having heard so much about the
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Served by boys with little or no interest in
the dish, I am unimpressed with the photos
on the wall of the owners hugging Anthony
Bourdain. Ive come here for the authentic
meal I have heard so much about but am
stunned by the mediocrity.
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Laksa
Serves 4 50 minutes
MODERATELY EASY
Recipe KAREN ANAND
oil 3 tbsp
coconut milk 2 cups
chicken stock 2 cups
prawns 100g small, shelled and
deveined
squid 100g, cleaned, skinned and slice c d
tofu 6 cakes, dried and deep-fried
rice flour noodles (laksa noodles)
200g, blanched in boiling water or
dried rice vermicelli (bee hoon) soaked
in room temperature water to soften
(try Blu l e Dragon available at gourmet
stores)
bean sprouts 1 cup
laksa leaves 2 sprigs, roughly chopped
(optional)
quails eggs 6 or egg 1, hard-boiled and
peeled
shallots 2 tbsp, fried
THE SPICE PASTE
shallots 12
garlic clove v s 4
candddle le le lenuts ts or macadamia nuts r 6
(optional) (try Mac Farm ms available at
gourmet stores)
ginger a 2-inch piece
red chillies 4
dried prawns 2 tbsp, soaked to
soften
oil 1 tsp
curry powder 2 tsp
dried shrimp paste (belacan)
1 tsp
lemongrass 2 stems, base only,
bruised
To make the spice paste,
chop the shallots, garlic,
macadamia nuts (if using),
ginger and chillies coarsely and
blend or process with the dried
prawns and oil until smooth.
Mix in the curry powder and
dried shrimp paste. Add the
lemongrass and blend for a few
seconds further.
Heat the oil in a wok. Add the spice
paste and cook over low heat, stirring
constantly for about 5 minutes, or until
the paste is fragrant. Add coconut milk
and chicken stock and bring to the
boil, stirring continuously. Stir in the
seafood and tofu, and simmer until
cooked. Season to taste.
Divide the noodles and bean sprouts
among 4 bowls. Top with the coconut
milk gravy, and eggs, and scatter
over laksa leaves (if using) and fried
shallots.
Tip: The spice paste is key to
making a great-tasting laksa.
Outside of Singapore, it may
not be easy to nd some of the
ingredients. I suggest you pick
up u branded curry pastes while in
Singapore either CHNG Kees
or Prima Taste. Neither contain
articial colouring, avouring or
MSG. Prima Tastes packet comes
with noodles, coconut powder
and at times, dried herbs as well,
so all you need to do is throw in
either vegetables, or se seaf a ood and
poultry. However, if you insis st t on
making it from scratch, youu ha ha have ve ve
the re reci cipe pe e aabo bove v .
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In In this section In
Che hef Thanabalans hef
Hainaanese Chicken nan
Rice mas asterclass mast
p 110
DIY Asian dipping ng ing
sauces p 114
Wines paired with
Oriental food p 115
Smart ways to improve your kitchen skills
Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photograph SHREYA GUPTA
masterclass
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SIZZLER PLATE
Few dining moments match up to the
pomp and drama of a sizzler experience.
A complete seduction of all the senses,
a meal on a sizzling hot plate elevates
every ingredient that has gone into it,
creating an almost 5-D efect with the
resulting aromas and heat. The basic
apparatus: a cast iron hot plate, which
needs to be heated on a stove until
scalding hot, and a wooden base to
rest it on.
Its simple to use. Just put a layer of
salad or cabbage leaves on the hot plate
and place your choice of pan-seared or
grilled meat or vegetable steak on it. Top
it up with gravy, and arrange cooked
vegetables and French fries on the
side. The plate instantly adds the right
amount of char to the food while also
imparting a smoky avour.
Given its versatility weve used our
plate for everything from grilling veggies
to getting the perfect char on tandoori
chicken the sizzler plate is a nifty x to
perk up dull meals at home. Its also the
easiest way to recreate an old favourite
you guessed it, sizzling brownie with
hot chocolate sauce and ice cream. Now
thats what we call smoking hot!
Try Devnow Bar available at
urbandazzle.com and zansaar.com
for ` 2,000 onwards. Unbranded `
plates are also available for ` 250 at
cookware stores such as Saria Stove
Depot, Mumbai and INA Market,
New Delhi.
Serves 4 1 hour 30 minutes +
poaching and resting
A LITTLE EFFORT
THE CHICKEN
water 5l
ginger 50g, crushed
whole turmeric 25g, crushed
galangal 25g
lemongrass 35g
pandan leaf 1
chicken 2 whole with skin on, 800g
each
THE RICE
oil 2 tbsp
chicken fat 50-100g, taken from the
whole chicken
ginger 50g, crushed
lemongrass 40g
galangal 25g
kaffir lime leaves 25g
chives 25g
butter 75g
pandan leaf 1
Thai rice 2kg
THE GREEN CHILLI SAUCE
garlic cloves 10g
ginger 10g
green chillies 30g large, chopped
sesame oil 35ml (try Blue Dragon
lemon juice 1 tbsp
sugar a pinch
CHEF THANABALANS
Masterclass
Chef Thanabalan, Sous Chef, Singapore Marriott Hotel, shows you how to make the
countrys famed national dish Hainanese chicken rice
Recipe CHEF THANABALAN Photographs RITAM BANERJEEE
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Fill up a large stockpot big enough
to t two whole chickens with
water. Add the garlic, ginger, shallots,
turmeric, galangal, lemongrass and
pandan leaf. Bring to a boil.
Using a soup ladle, carefully remove
all the scum or impurities that
surface on the stock. Poach on a low
ame for 45 minutes.
In the meantime, to make the rice,
add oil to a deep-bottomed pan.
Heat the chicken fat in the pan
until it releases its own oil.
Now slowly pull the chicken lengthways
so that it stretches out.
Take the pot off the heat, cover the top
with foil and let the stock cool down
until it reaches room temperature.
Saut the garlic, ginger, shallots,
lemongrass, galangal, kafr lime
leaves and chives. Add the butter
and the pandan leaf.
Gently lower the whole chicken into
the pot.
Remove the chicken from the cooled
stock and transfer to an iced water
bath for approximately 15 minutes.
Keep the stock aside for later use.
Once the butter has melted, add the
rice and 400ml of the reserved chicken
broth.
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Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for
10 minutes. Switch off the gas and
keep the rice covered for 10 minutes.
Remove the lid and uff up with a fork.
Pull the leg away from the body until
the joint pops, then cut down and
through the joint, wriggling with the
knife as you go. Separate the thigh and
legs on both sides.
Pull out the wing joints, scrape
back to the bone, then cut
through with a sharp knife. Keep
the wings aside for later use.
Prepare the green chilli sauce by
whizzing together the ginger, garlic,
shallots, green chillies and sesame
oil in a mixer. Add lemon juice and
sugar. Keep aside.
Cut down and through each breast a
couple of centimetres to the side of the
central breastbone.
Now cut slices of the breasts as well as
the thighs.
To debone the chicken, start by making
an incision along the leg joints of the
chicken.
Now you have two boneless breasts
with the little wing bones attached.
To assemble the dish, place the chicken
thigh and breast onto a plate, serve
with the rice, green chilli sauce and soy
sauce. Garnish with sprigs of coriander
and serve.
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masterclass
diy
Add a pop of flavour to your meals with these simple Asian dips and sauces
Photograph JOY MANAVATH
Wasabi mayo
Serves 2 5 minutes + chilling
EASY
Recipe CHING-HE-HUANG
wasabi paste 1 tsp (try Roland
water 1 tbsp
mayonnaise 6 tbsp
caster sugar 2 pinches (try Tate & Lyle
Mix together all of the ingredients.
Cover and chill. Serve with grilled
prawns or sh cakes.
Thai peanut sauce
Recipe JOHN TORODE
coconut cream 2 tbsp (try Real Thai
Thai red curry paste 1 tbsp (try Blue
Elephant available at gourmet stores)
fish sauce 1 tsp (try Ayam available at
gourmet stores)
palm sugar 1/2 tbsp
tamarind paste 4 tbsp
peanut butter 1 1/2 heaped tbsp
peanuts 140g, roasted, nely chopped
coconut milk 100ml
In a saucepan, combine the coconut
cream and red curry paste, then cook
for 5 minutes on a low ame. Add the
sh sauce, palm sugar, tamarind paste,
peanut butter and chopped peanuts.
Cook for a further 5 minutes, then add
dip in!
the coconut milk and stir well until the
sauce thickens. Serve with chicken, lamb
or vegetable satay.
Sesame dipping sauce
soy sauce 2 tbsp
sesame oil 1 tsp
lime 1, juiced
Combine the soy
sauce, sesame oil and
lime juice and mix well.
Stir in the chopped
red chillies and serve
with seared sesame sh
or spoon over stir-fried
noodles.
Sweet chilli and lime dip
rice vinegar 75ml
caster sugar 87g
red chilli 1, nely sliced
lime 1, juiced
Make the chilli sauce by heating
the rice vinegar and sugar. After
it boils, turn the heat down and
cook until thickened. Cool, then
add the remaining ingredients.
Combine the sweet chilli sauce
and the red chillies. Combine with
the lime juice. Serve with sh cakes
and spring rolls.
Sweet chilli
and lime dip
Wasabi mayo
Sesame dipping
sauce
Thai peanut
sauce
I
t is generally believed that Asian
food, with its spicy, sweet,
sour and bitter avours, is too
complex and difcult to pair
with wine. Also, several dishes are
served together, rather than as separate
courses. But wine manufacturers
around the world are looking beyond
the already saturated European
markets towards Asia to increase the
sales of their wines. In order to do
that, winemakers and sommeliers are
increasingly turning their attention
towards putting together some perfect
pairings for all types of Asian cuisine.
And the choices are getting better.
Powerful wines tend to overwhelm
the delicate avours in Asian food.
Wines which work best have moderate
levels of alcohol, are crisper, acidic and
have a wee bit of residual sugar.
This is why you will nd the
delicate, low alcohol wines from
Germany, Austria and Alsace, such
as Gewurztraminers, Rieslings and
even a Pinot Gris, at the top of every
sommeliers list when considering an
Asian-style menu. Also popular are
fragrant Viogniers, peppery Zinfandels
from California, of-dry Chenin Blancs
and crisp sparkling wines (Prosecco,
Cava, Sekt) which lean towards the of-
dry. Wines from the southern Rhne
region of France, with softer tannins
than those in the wines from Bordeaux,
tend to work well. Richer German
wines like Ausleses and Sptleses ofset
the inherent fat in duck and pork dishes
well. For smoked or roasted meats like
Peking duck, a Barbera or an Australian
Shiraz might work, or a fruity Pinot
Noir from the US, even a Beaujolais.
Softer ross from Provence, France,
work well with several Asian foods, too.
Wine expert Ruma Singh picks the styles that complement Asian food best
10-MINUTE WINE GUIDE
Wine and Asian food
Waterkloof Circumstance Viognier
(` (( 3,350, available at Reliance Fresh `
outlets across Mumbai)
A Viognier from Stellenbosch, South
Africa, this wine is luscious on the
palate with a long, lingering nish.
Pair with spicy Thai and Cantonese
entres, or Szechwan sh.
Cruse Blanc de Blancs Sparkling
Demi-sec (` (( 1,055 onwards, available `
at Madhuloka Wines, Bengaluru and
Sant, Mumbai)
This French sparkling wine is creamy
and soft on the palate. Complements
lightly spiced Chinese sh or poultry
dishes, and hot and sweet avours.
Hardys Riesling Gewrztraminer
2012 (` 1,150 onwards, available at `
The Taste, Delhi and Sant, Mumbai)
This off-dry Australian wine has zesty
citrus, spice and oral notes. It goes
well with spicy Thai dishes or salt and
pepper squid.
Maison Trimbach Pinot Gris
Reserve (` (( 3,676, available at Fine `
Wines n More, Mumbai)
Replete with citrus notes along with
whiffs of pear and apple, this wine is
medium-bodied, light and refreshing.
Try with Thai food or Japanese
tempura.
Dr Loosen 2011 Bernkasteler
Lay Riesling Kabinett (` (( 3,007, `
available at Reliance Fresh, Phoenix
Market City, Mumbai)
Lightest among the German whites,
this has luscious avours of baked
peach, pear and ripe apple. Drink it
with sushi or spring rolls.
Zardetto Prosecco di Treviso Brut Zardetto Prosecco di Treviso Brut
DOC (` (( 1,398 onwards, available at `
Godrej Natures Basket outlets across
Mumbai and Cyber Wines, Bengaluru)
A clean, light-bodied sparkling wine
from Veneto, Italy, that is refreshing
on the palate. This wine should be
drunk young. Pair with pad Thai.
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Ruma Singh is a
lifestyle writer and
has been the only
woman president of
the Bangalore Wine
Club. She writes,
tweets and blogs
about wine, food
and travel.
Domaine Schlumberger
Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kessler
(` (( 4,153, available at Reliance Super, `
Central City Mall, Mumbai)
Hints of lychee, passion fruit and
mango are coupled with oral aromas
in this wine. Try it with red Thai curry.
Johann Donabaum Gruner
Veltliner Federspiel 2008 (` 3,292, `
available at Godrej Natures Basket
outlets across the country)
This Austrian white wine has notes of
white pepper, a crisp nish and high
minerality. Pairs well with most Asian
vegetarian dishes vegetarian dishes.
STARTERS, SNACKS AND SOUPS
31 Chilled red pepper
gazpacho
69 Miso soup
24 Sweet potato and
rosemary soup with
garlic toasts
13 Teriyaki prawn and
noodle broth
96 Wontons
MAINS
Egg
60 Veggie rice pot
Meat
36 Chargrilled pork
chops with mustard
greens
61 Chinese pork
one-pot
59 Five-spice beef and
snow peas noodles
33 Hot chorizo,
avocado and
mozzarella salad
52 Lon kho tieu
64 Minced soy pork
with rice noodles
71 Nikujaga
73 Shogayaki
118 Steamed pork buns
13 Stir-fried teriyaki
steak with cabbage
39 Thai burgers with
salsa and sweet
potato wedges
Poultry
28 Chicken on
sugarcane
54 Ga xao sa ot
110 Hainanese chicken
rice with green chilli
sauce
62 Lemon, broccoli and
sesame roast
chicken
96 Satay lilit ayam
19 Shredded chicken
curry leaf and
bamboo shoot
stir-fry
Fish and seafood
94 Bakso
54 Bnh mi ch c
72 Barazushi
30 Crab cakes with chilli
and lime dip
42 Fish parcels with
tomatoes and
capers
40 Fried sh and
tomato curry
65 Kung po prawns
107 Laksa
54 Mackerel and
potato salad with
lemon caraway
dressing
37 Mackerel with
sizzled garlic,
ginger and
tomatoes
96 Pepes ikan kakap
35 Prawn and black
pepper curry
13 Sticky salmon with
greens

Vegetarian
46 Aubergine and
black bean stir-fry
46 Black bean soba
noodles with
mushrooms and
cabbage
13 Bulghar wheat salad
with roasted beet,
spinach and pine nuts
41 Chickpea, tomato and
spinach curry
34 Corn and chive cakes
with quinoa salad
57 Du phu nu chui
xanh
48 Gingery shiitake
noodles
45 Kale, mushroom and
cashew stir-fry
74 Nasu dengaku
56 Nem thinh
73 Nimono
37 Peanut noodle salad
34 Quinoa salad
38 Seared sesame tofu
with noodle salad
42 Spiced vegetables
with lemony
bulghar
wheat salad
48 Stir-fried garlic bok
choy
46 Stir-fried noodle
salad
48 Tofu, greens and
cashew medley
70 Tofu steak
70 Wok-fried
vegetables
37 Zucchini and pasta
salad with sherry-
vinegar dressing
32 Zucchini, lemon
and mint pasta
SIDES AND SAUCES
98 Bumbu pepes paste
52 Caramel sauce
54 Classic dipping
sauce
69 Dashi stock
114 Green chilli sauce
12 Leek kimchi
46 Lemongrass and
chilli dressing
54 Lime, chilli and salt
mix
12 Mixed cabbage
kimchi
52 Pickled relish
12 Radish kimchi
114 Sesame dipping
sauce
98 Spice paste
72 Sushi rice
114 Sweet chilli and
lime dip
114 Thai peanut sauce
114 Wasabi mayo
12 Water kimchi
DESSERTS, BREAKFASTS AND
BAKING
75 Anmitsu
98 Kue labu
7 Spiced apple loaf
DRINKS
26 Elevenses
26 Frozen lychee and
mint cocktails
26 Lychee martini
Recipe index VEGETARIAN READY UNDER 30 MINUTES LOW FAT
82
10/A, Pali Naka,
Bandra (W)
Tel: + 91 22 26041204/ 26041208/
26465070
Reliance Fresh
Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi

Salavi Road, Off Veera Desai Road,
Opposite Janaki Centre, Link Road,
Andheri (W)
Tel: +91 22 26743750
Framroze Court, Phalke Road,

Dadar (E)
Tel: +91 22 24155017
Sant
Shop 1, Sahina
Apartments, Pali Market,
Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 40060020
Spencers HyperMarket
1406A/28A, Malad (W)
Tel: +91 22 42686130
Tutto Bene Delicatessen
Spencers Hyper Market,
Ground oor, Located in
Inorbit Mall, Malad (W)
Tel: +91 9823485988
PUNE
Dorabjee & Co Pvt Ltd
B-1, Moledina Road, Camp Cantonment
Tel: +91 20 26052883
Natures Basket
Mansur Ali Tower,

3, Galaxy Society,
Max Mueller Lane,
Dhole Patil Road
Tel: +91 20 26160540
Shop No. 155/1A, Kumar Crystal

Aundh
Tel: +91 20 25889530
Providore
GF 104, Anand Park, Baner
Road, Aundh
Tel: +91 20 65601551
Shop 1, Princeton Flair,
Lane 8, Koregaon Park
Tel: +91 20 66077193
G 14 Sacred World Mall, Wanowrie
Tel: +91 20 26806933

Gourmet Websites
Farm2kitchen
farm2kitchen.com
Foodesto
foodesto.com
Gourmet Company
gourmetco.in
Houseproud
houseproud.in
Local Banya
localbanya.com
Olive Tree Trading
olivetreetrading.com
Pesca Fresh
pescafresh.com
Zansaar
zansaar.com
Tel: +91 33 23581111
Gourmet Gallery
27/9C, Chandi Ghosh Road,
Regent Park
Tel: +91 33 23818510
MUMBAI
Country of Origin
Maneesha Building, 69/A, Napean Sea
Road, Malabar Hill
Tel: +91 22 23642221
Dolce Vita
Ground oor, Grand Galleria, High
Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mills,
Lower Parel
Tel: +91 22 24964307
Food Bazaar
Innity Mall, Raheja Classic,
New Link Road, Andheri (W)
Tel: +91 22 67583090
Foodhall
Palladium, High Street Phoenix,
Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel
Tel: +91 22 30264581
Garden Fresh
391/7, Circle House, Bhaudaji Road,
Kings Circle, Matunga
Tel: + 91 22 2403 5345
Gourmet West
Westside, Army and Navy Building,
148 MG Road, Kala Ghoda
Tel: +91 22 66360499
Hypercity
Ground Floor, Malad (W)
Tel: +91 22 40501300
Lallu & brothers
Shop 1&2, Pali Market,
Pali Hill Road, Pali Hill,
Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 26409295
Natures Basket
227, Samarth Vaibhav Building,

Adarsh Nagar, Lokhandwala,
Andheri (W)
Tel: +91 22 26300766
2-5 Parul Apartments, Juhu Tara

Road, Juhu
Tel: +91 22 26117893
Plot no. 29, 56 Hill Road,

Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 26425050
Opp. Mahalaxmi Temple ,

Warden Road, Mahalaxmi
Tel: +91 22 23526775
Patel stores
Near Mehboob Studio,
Krishnachandra Marg, Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 26558909
Ratna stores
Haware Parekh, Sion-Trombay Road,
Opposite Union Park, Chembur
Tel: +91 22 25203389
Regal Plus
1, Lourdes Haven,
BENGALURU
Foodhall
1, MG Mall, 4th oor,
Trinity Circle, Opposite Vivanta
by Taj, Ulsoor
Tel: +91 80 22086533
Foodworld Gourmet
301, Gottigere village, Uttarahalli
village, Bannerghatta Main Road
Tel: +91 80 32466586
Gourmet Food World
No 88, Shariff Bhatia Towers,
MG Road
Tel: +91 80 41474789
Natures Basket
755, 80 Foot Road, 4th Block, Next to
Costa Coffee, Koramangala
Tel: +91 80 41317401

CHENNAI
Amma Nana
Chamiers Road, opp Park Sheraton
Hotel, Nandanam
Tel: +91 44 24350596
Mercado
64, Rukmani Road, Kalakshetra
Colony, Besant Nagar
Tel: +91 44 28173965
Nuts n Spices
75, Mahatma Gandhi Road,
Nungambakkam
Tel: +91 44 28268180, 42039351
HYDERABAD
Natures Basket
Urmila Towers, Road No. 10,
Opp. Rainbow Hospital, Banjara Hills
Tel: +91 40 23355399
NEW DELHI
A- Mart
A-1, Mahipalpur Extension, NH-8
Tel: +91 11 26789999
Ahuja Vegetable Store
Shop 37, INA Market
Tel: +91 11 24644116
Allied Fruits and Florists
58-B, Khan Market, Lodhi Road
Tel: +91 11 24642509
Ashok General Store
113, Main Market, Opposite Dilli Haat,
INA Market
Tel: +91 11 24617561
Dubden Green
4-A, Near Electric Sub Station,
Shahpur Jat
Tel: +91 11 32905310,
+91 9810131343
Flanders Dairy The Cheese Ball
31 Mehar Chand Market, Lodhi Road
Tel: +91 11 24653789
Foodhall
DLF Promenade, 1st oor, Vasant Kunj
Tel: +91 11 5629630
Fortune Gourmet
144/9, Ground Floor, Kishangarh,
Vasant Kunj
Tel: +91 11 65642270/ 9868899956
Gogias
280, Main road, INA Market
Tel: +91 11 24624809/ 24644618
INA Market
Aurobindo Marg, INA Colony, Opposite
Dilli Haat
Le Marche
58, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar,
Near Priya Cinema
Tel: +91 11 43232100/41669111
Masters Bakers
G-33, Usha Chambers, Community
Centre, Ashok Vihar
Tel: +91 11 27419061/ 27430734
Modern Bazaar
18-B, Community Centre, Basant Lok,
Vasant Vihar
Tel: +91 11 41669777
Natures Basket

Ground oor, D /15,
Between BP Petrol Pump
and Defence Colony. Flyover
Tel: +91 11 46698777

46, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar,
Ground oor & basement
Tel: +91 11 40571919
Palkit Impex
C-82, Basement, Shivalik, Malviya
Nagar.
Tel: +91 11 26673437
Passion Cheese
Select Citywalk Mall,
District Centre, Saket
Tel: +91 11 40599916
Pigpo
9 Jor Bagh Market
Tel: +91 11 24611723/ 24626930
Steak House
13/8 Jor Bagh Market
Tel: +91 11 24611008/ 24611129
The French Farmer
Tel: Call Roger Langbour
+91 9810166196, +91 11 26359701
Yamato Ya The Japanese Store
B-6/9, Safdarjung Enclave,
Near Deer Park
Tel: +91 11 41650164
GURGAON
Kims Mart
DT Mega Mall, LG 36, Gurgaon
Tel: +91 124 2562189
Natures Basket
S-201, 2nd Floor,
Ambience Mall,
Ambience Island, NH-8
Tel: +91 124 4665753
KOLKATA
Afraa Deli
City Centre, Salt Lake
Where to find everything from tofu to teriyaki sauce Shop talk
good food loves
showstopper
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Dazzle your guests with this Asian street food classic thats fast becoming
a global addiction
BUN AND ONLY
Steamed pork buns
Makes 12 1 hour 30 minutes +
rising time and marinating
A LITTLE EFFORT
The secret to pillowy steamed
buns is adding extra raising agent
and double rising.
golden caster sugar 3 tbsp (try
Tate & Lyle available at gourmet
stores)
dried active yeast 1 1/2 tsp (try
Red Star available at gourmet
stores)
plain flour 350g
salt a large pinch
oil 4 tbsp
baking powder 1 1/2 tsp
THE FILLING
pork belly 1kg, skin and excess
fat trimmed off, sliced
garlic cloves 2, crushed
Chinese five-spice powder
1/2 tsp (try Dynasty available
at gourmet stores)
honey 3 tbsp
hoisin sauce 5 tbsp (try Ayam
soy sauce 4 tbsp
rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp
(try Clearspring available at
gourmet stores)
THE GARNISH
cucumber 1, shredded and tossed
with a splash of rice wine vinegar
spring onions a bunch, shredded
chilli sauce or sriracha sauce to
serve (optional)
To make the pork lling, put
the meat in a dish in one layer.
Mix the marinade and pour over.
Leave for 2-3 hours or overnight.
Heat the oven to 200C. Sit
a rack on top of a roasting tin in
which youve poured a splash
of water. Lift the pork from the
marinade and place on the rack.
Roast for 1 hour, turning and
basting 2-3 times with the leftover
marinade.
In the meantime, to make the
buns, mix the sugar and yeast
with 250ml of warm water and
leave until the mixture starts to
froth a little. Put the our in a
bowl with salt, add 2 tbsp of oil
and the yeast mixture. Mix to a
rough dough with a spoon and
then tip onto a oured surface.
Knead until you have soft dough,
adding more our if required.
Tip into an oiled bowl, turning
the dough until it is coated in
oil, cover and leave to rise until
doubled in size. Punch the
air out of the risen dough.
Tip it onto a oured
surface, atten with your
hands and sprinkle with
the baking powder. Fold
the dough over and
knead until the baking
powder is incorporated.
Cover and leave to rise
for 30 minutes.
To nish the buns,
cut out squares of
baking paper. Divide
the dough into
12 pieces. Roll out
each piece of dough
into an oval, about
12 x 6cm (use a little
more our if the
dough is sticky).
Place on a
piece of baking
paper, brush
one side with oil
and fold in half
using the paper
(you should be
able to open
them once they
are cooked). Put a large steamer
over a medium ame and steam
the buns for 6-8 minutes or until
puffed and cooked through. Dont
let the buns touch or they will
stick. Cut the pork into pieces and
stuff into the buns with cucumber,
spring onion and chilli sauce.
18.2g, carbs 33g, fat 18.6g, sat fat
5.1g, fibre 1,4g, salt 1.5g

BBC GoodFood India

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od writer. He is the force behind business ventures such

La Ditta, Been There Done That and Cool Japan Festival,

of which promote Japanese culture. Cheng is also the

oprietor of Maidoindia and Sushi and More in Mumbai, and

e restaurant Umaide in central Tokyo. He takes you on a tour

of the Balinese foodscape in Eat Like a Local on p 94.

chicken rice with green chilli sauce, in Masterclass on p 110.

Myth: Rice contains bad carbs

BBC GoodFood 83 SEPTEMBER 2013

Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi

Framroze Court, Phalke Road,

Mansur Ali Tower,

Shop No. 155/1A, Kumar Crystal

227, Samarth Vaibhav Building,

2-5 Parul Apartments, Juhu Tara

Plot no. 29, 56 Hill Road,

Opp. Mahalaxmi Temple ,

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