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SWAMI PRANAVANANDA, F.R.G.S.
(Of the Holy Kailas and Manasarovar)
FOREWORD
BY
The Hon'ble Sbree PANDIT JAWAHARLAL NEHRU,
Prime Minister of India
PUBLISHER'S NOTE
We have the greatest pleasure and privilege of bringing out this book
RAILAS-MANASAROVAR, of Shree 108 Swami Pranavanandaji
Maharaj (of the Holy Kailas and Manasarovar), the well known Hima-
layan Explorer and he needs no introduction. This is the most
authentic work on the subject and it would speak for itself.
For the benefit of the reader we give, in an appendix at the end of
the book, a short sketch of the author's activities taken from 'The
Indian Geographical Journal'.
Calcutta
June 23, 1949.
SWAMI KA~VALYANANDA,
S. P. LEAGUE, LTD.,
CALCUTTA.
..-.- .., , . ,...... .... ,.
Firel Edition 4,000
-, . , - - . . ., . , . , .- . . , . , ,. , . . . , .
Publiehed by 8wemi Keivalyenede, for the 9. P. League, Ltd., P. 16-0,
Bentinok Street, Calcutta- 1 and Printed by 9. C. Bhettecharye, M.A.
at the Inl8nd Printing work^, 60-3, Dhararntole
Street. Celoutte.
1. Hia Holiness
Shree 1108
Narayana Swa-
miji Maharaj,
Shree Nara-
ynna Ashrt-tma.
Himalayas
[See p. 99
DEDICATED
Shree Narayana Ashrama (Soosa, Himalayas, District
Almora), as a token of Love and Admiration
for the keen interest he has bee,n taking for
the spiritual uplift of the people of the
Himalayas in general, and for the
particular interest he evinces in
.
the Author's activities in
=AILAS-MANASAROVAR REGION
a OM I
Page
- &i
- xix
FIRST WAVE
A TWELVE-MONTH ON THE HOhY KAILAS
AND LARE MANASASAROVAR
CHAPTER 1
MOUNT KAILAS AND LAKE MANASAROVAR
THE HIMALAYAS - - - - 3
SIGNIFICANCE OF PLACES OF PILGRIMAGE - - 6
MOUNT KAILAS AND LAKE MANASAROVAR - - 6
TIBETAN AND HINDU MYTHOLOGY - - - 8
PARIKRAMA - - - - 10
NEW LIGHT ON THE SOURCES OF THE FOUR GREAT RIVERS
OF THE HOLY KAILAS AND MANASAROVAR - - 14
RAKSHAS TAL - - - - 17
GANGA CHHU - - - - 18
ISLANDS IN RAKSHAS TAI, - - - 19
DESCRIPTION OF MANASAROVAR - - - 21
LOPS AND ROYAL SWANS - - - 22
MAHATMAS AND TIBETAN MYSTICS - - - 25
C
CHAPTER I1
FREEZING OF MANASAROVAR
TEMPERATURE! READINGS -
- - 27
EARLY PREM~NITIONS - - - - 27
ACTUAL FREEZING OF THE LAKE - - - 27
FISSURES AND SOUNDS I N THE LAKE . - 29
LAKB MANAS AND RAKSHAS-A CONTRAST - - 29
PECULIAR SURFACE PHENOMENA - - - 32
CHAPTER I11
MEI,+ING OF MANASAROVAR
EARLY PREMONITIONS - - -
FINAL BREAKING OF THE ICE I N THE UKE -
E;FI&OGUB - - -
8 s ~ ~ O N P , WAVE
RAILAS-MANASAROVAR REGION .
CHAPTER I
PHYSIOGRAPHY
TI BET, - - -
KAILAS-MANASAROVAR REGION - -
MOUNTAINS - - -
. - - .
RIVERS
- - -
LAKES
- - -
CLIMATE
- /
- -
FLORA
- - -
GEOLOGY
GENERAL .
FOSSXLS
THERMAL SPRINGS
.
GOLD
BORAX -
OTHER MINERALS
C ~ P T E ~ 111
HUMAN GEOGRAPHY
PEOPLE AND DWELLINGS - -
FOOD AND DRESS - -
SOCIAL CUSTOMS - -
RELIGION
ADVENT OF BUDDHISM INTO TIBET
DIFFERENT SCHOOLS OF BUDDHISM
GOMPA OR MONASTERY -
LIBRARY _ - -
CALENDAR - -
MANI-MANTRA
-
SIMBILING GOMPA - -
KHOCHAR GOMPA - -
CYAPTER I V
AGRICULTURAL AND ECONOMIC GEOGRAPHY
AGRICULTURE - - -
FAUNA
- - -
POKESTIC ANIMALS - . -
Page
TIBET AND AD.JACENT LANDS
Map NO* 5
STOCK-RAISING -
TRADE AND MARTS -
CURIOS OF MANASA KHANDA
CHAPTER V
ADMINISTRATION
DALAI LAMA -
GOVERNMENT -
I
I NDI AN TRADE AGENT - - -
CURRENCY - -
KASHMIR AND TI BET - - -
GENERAL ZORAVAR SI NGH - -
LOPCHAK MISSION - - -
RAVAGES OF KAZHAK NOMADS OF RUSSIA -
NEPAL AND MANASA KHANDA - -
BNUTANESE POSSESSIONS - -
'JANMA-BHOOMI' AND 'JNAN NAUKA' ON THE MANAS
SOME REFLECTIONS - - -
GENERAL OUTLINE OF THE ROUTE TO KAILAS AND
MANASAROVAR VIA LIPU LEKH PASS
.
w
VARIOUS ROUTES TO THE HOLY KAILAS AND MANASAROVAR
8 9
HOW TO R W H ALMORA - - - 90
AL MOR~ - - - - 91
STEEP ASCENTS
- - - - 92
' STEEP DESCENTS
- - - - 93
THE WHOLE JQURNEY MAY ROUGHLY BE DI VI DED I NTO
SEVEN STAGES
FI RST STAGE :
J q ES HVAR, GANGOLIHAT, PI'I'HOKAGARH, PATALA-RHUVAN-
ESHVAK, BERINAC, BHADRAKALI, BAGESHVAR, GORI-UDYAR,
BAIJNATH, KAUSANI, AND J AUWI BI - - 9:)
SECOND STAGE :
CHHIPLAKOT LAKES, DEATH-CAVE, BHOTIAS, DARMA SEVA
SANGHA, AND SHREE NARAYANA ASHRAMA - - 97
THI RD STAGE :
LI PU LEKH PASS, TAKLAKOT, SIMBILING GOMPA, GUKUNG,
AND KHOCHAP GOMPA - .. - 100
a
FOURTH STAGE : Page
TOYO, GURLA LA, PARKHA OR BARKHA, DULCHU GOMPA,
TIRTHAPURI, GURU-GEM, KHYUNGLUNG, AND THE
DESERTED CAVE-COLONY OF PANGTHA - .- 101
FIFTH STAGE :
KAILAS-PAKIKRAMA, TARCHHEN, SERSHUNG, DOLMA LA,
GOURI-KUND, SERDUNG-CHUKSUM, AND TSO KAPALA
106
SIXTH STAGE :
MANASAROVAR-PARIKRAMA - - - 107
FOURTH WAVE
9
ROUTES
I. FIRST ROUTE TO THE HOLY KAILAS AND MANA-
SAROVAR, FROM ALMORA VIA LI PU LEKH PASS
-238 MILES - - - - 111
11. KAII,AS-PARIKRA?VIA-~~ MILES - - 124
111. MANASAROVAR-PARIKRAMA (VISITING ALL THE
EIGHT MONASTERIES OF THE LAKE)-64 MILES 130
IV. TAKLAKOT TO KHOCHARNATH-12 MILES - 136
V. TAKLAKOT TO RAILAS (TARCHHEN) VIA GYANIMA
MANDI, TIRTHAPURI, AND DULCHU GOMPA-1 1 1
MILES - - - - 136
VI. TAKLAKOT TO TIRTHAPURI BY SHORT.-CUT AND
THENCE DIRECT TO KAILAS (NYANRI)-93 MILES 0 139
VII. KAILAS TO GYANIMA MANDI-38 MILES - 142
Vn I . ABSTRACT OF THE COMP3ETE PILGRIMAGI??~~
KAILAS AND MANASAROVAR VIA 1, IPULEKH PASS
' AND B A C K - ~ ~ O ~ MILES - - - 14
m. ABSTRACT OF MIL&AGES BETWEEN IXPORTANT
PLACES IN KAILASA KHANDA AND KEDAR KHANDA 146
X. SECOND ROUTE TO THE HOLY KAILAS AND MANA-
SAROVAR, FROM ALMORA VIA DARMA PASS-
227 MILES - - - - 147
XI. THIRD ROUTE, FROM ALMORA VIA UNTA-DKURA
PASS-210 MILES - - - 148
XII. FOURTH ROUTE, FROM JOSHIMATH VIA GUNLA-MTI
PASS-200 MILES - - - 162
XIII. FIFTH ROUTE, FRQM
JOSHIMATH VIA DAMJAN-
NIT1 PASS-160 MILES - - - 164
XIV. SIXTH ROUTE,
FROM JOSHIMATH VIA HOTI-NIT1
PASS-I68 MILES - . - . 166
TABLE XV. SEVEN1l'H ROUTS, FROM BSDRINATH VIA MANA
PASS-238 MILES - - -
,,
XVI. EIGHTH ROUTE, FROM MUKHUVA (GANGOTRI) VIA
JELUKHAGA PASS-243 MILES - -
,, XVII. NINTH ROUTE, FROM SIMLA VIA GARTOK--438
MILES -
- - -
,,
XVIII. TENTH ROUTE, FROM SIMLA VIA THHULING-473
MILES -
- - -
,, XIX. ELEVENTH ROUTE, FROM SRINAGAR (KASHMIR)
VIA LADAKH-598 MILES - -
11
n. TWELFTH ROUTE, FROM LHASA, VIA GYANTSE AND
SHIGARTSE-800 ? MILES - -
,,
XXI. TARCHHEN TO THE SOURCE OF THE INDUS VIA
- LA AND BACK VIA TOPCHH,EN LA-91 MILES -
9 1
XXII. TARCHHEN TO THE SOURCE OF THE BKAHMAPUTRA
AND TAG TSANGPO AND BACK TO TAKLAKOT VIA
GURLA LA-198 MILES - -
,, XXII'I. TAKLAKOT TO THE SOURCE OF THE KARNALI,
AT MAPCHA-CHUNGO-23 MILES - -
,,
XXIV. TARCHI-IEN TO THE SOURCE OF THE SUTLEJ, AT
DULCHU GOMPA-21 MILES - -
,, XXV. ALMOHA TO PINDARI GLACIER-71 MILES -
XXVI. SRINAGAR TO AMARNATH VIA PAKALGAM-59
+28Q=872 MILES - - -
1 , XxVII. RAXAUL TO PASHUPATINATH (NEPAL)-77 MILES
a * . FIFTH WAVE
TOURIST'S COMPANION
GNEERAL IPJFORMATION FOR PILGRIMS AND TOURISTS
WHO CAN UNDERTAKE THE JOURNEY - -
PASSPORT - - - -
ARTICLES NEEDED FOR THE JOURNEY
CLOTHES - - L -
MEDICINES - - - -
MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES - - -
EXPENSES - h - -
CONVEYANCE - - - -
HELP AND POPULAR PERSONS - - -
HIGHWAY ROBBERS, FIREARMS, AND GUIDES -
KAILAS BADRINATIZ - - -
Page
155
-
LODGING AND TENTS - - - -
CLIMATE AND WEATHER CONDITIONS - -
BENEFITS OF A MOUNTAIN TRIP - - -
WHEN TO START FOR THE JOURNEY - -
TIME TAKEN FOR THE JOURNEY - - -
MAILS OR DAK - - - -
PROVISIONS - - - -
FUEL - - - -
CURRENCY - - - -
GENERAL AILMENTS ON THE WAY AND THEIR TREATMENT
Page
191
192
194
194
195
195
195
197
197
197
CHAPTER I1
PRASADS
W L A S - - - - 199
MANASAROVAR - - - - 199
REACTIONS OF THE KAILAS-MANAS ON WESTERN MINDS 200
LET US TO THE DIVINE LAKE - - - 201
EPILOGUE - - - - - 202
APPENDICES
I GLOSSARY OF TIBETAN AND OTHER WORDS - 205
11 SYMBOLISM I N TIBETAN BUDDHISM - - 213
111 DISTINGUISHED VISITORS TO MANASA KHANDA - , 218
I V VILLAGES IN MANASA KHANDA - - 230
V MONASTERIES OF MANASA KHANDA - C+ - 232
VI AVIFAUNA OF MANASA 'KHANDA - - 233,
VI I A REPORT ON FOSSILS - - '235
VIII A SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR'S LI FE AYD WORK 237
xiii
The Holy Mount Kailas -
The Holg Mount Kailas and Lake Manasa-sarovar
-
1. His Holiness Shree 1108 Narclyana Swamiji Maharaj
2. The Hon'ble Shree Par~di t Jaweharlal Nehru,
Prime Minister of India -
3. His Highness Maharajashreo Sir Krishna Kumar Sinha, E.c.s.I.,
Maharaja Sahib of Bhavnagar (Kathiawctr), His ExceUency
The Governor of Madras -
4. The Hon'ble Shree Sarupurnanend, Minister of Education and
Labour, U. P. A -
Shree Anlritlal D. Shetb, Editor 'Janma-Bhoomi', Bombay -
Shree Bhr~pendra Singh Pramar, Raj a Sahib of Barwari, and the
Author in Dhnneulti Jungle, Tehri -
Shree Nayani Venkata Rangct Rao Bahadur, Zamindar,
Munagla
Estate - 9 -
The Author
The Himalayas -
Terrace-Cultivation, near Kosi -
Group of Temples a t Jageshvar -
-
Temple a t Bageshvar -
Group of Templcs a t Raijnnth
-
Image of Parvtbti at Baijnath
-
Pindnri Glacier -
Suspension Bridge on the River Sarayu a t Seraghat -
Hill-Porters from Dharchula -
Hanging in the Sky, Rope bridge on the Kali
The Foaming end Jumping Dhauli-Gange -
Cosmos or the Wheel of Universe-Brahmandct-Chekra
-
His Holiness Shree 1108 Dr. Swami Jnananctndaji Meharaj, t he
Anther's Guru Deva -
Girls of Chaudans Bhot
Bhotia woincn
Shree Nar ay~na Ashrama
Circle-danre, I3yana Bhot
Kabpani , the Spring-Source of t he Karneli
-
Lipu Lckh Pass (16,750 feet)
-
Goods-train of the Himalaya8 entering Tibet -
Simhiling Gmq a -
Image of Lord Buddha in Simbiling Compa -
Tho Tutolary Deity Demchhog in Yeb-Yum Pose, from a Banner -
Pninting in Simbiling - -
Delnchhog In Yab-Yum Poso. from the Dokrt ed Cave-Colony -
Images of Snttli md Butter made on the occcraion of a Tantrik
Rite perforn~gd in connortion with the Yidam Demrhhog
Performing the laat Rites in n Tantrik Cere~nony called Torme
-
Tnlk~i-Lama Nav-Kuehok of Simbiling Gompa with the usual
Articlos of Worship placed on a Folding-table
-
The Author in Lamn'a Dreee
-
A Pa* from Kenjur -
Chhorten-a St upe or Chaitya -
Hi8 Excellency the Governor (Zongpon) of Taklakot (1942-46) -
Znngpon'a Wife -
Articlno of Puniahment kept i n the Zong (Fort)
-
Yak with a Pack-saddle
Plol~ghing with n Jhabbu and a Horse -
gKetttlo-makin~ a t Thugolho -
Taklakot, Mandi with Snow-peake on the Inhian border -
Tea- r h~~mi ng -
Doiible- anni nr~ of Borax and Salt by the eide of a Dokps Tent in
~RlrTkkot Mandi -
Tho Author in Tibetan Coati~mee
xvii
xxi
xxi
xxi
xxi
xxi
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
25
49. Musk-deer i n diffejent Postures -
50. Muek-pod from Darma
51. Cove-village of Gukung -
52.
Tent of a Nepalese Merchant i n Pururav Chhongra (Market)
-
53. Tibetan Black Tent -
54. A Sh~pl l erd Woman from ~ b r District, Manasarovar
55. This is liow s h ~ dresses her Hair
56. Wool-shearing a t Thugolho, Manasarovar -
57. Twisting wool t o make into Dales -
58. Dhabbus (Bales) of Wool
59. Milking Goats -
60. Interior of Khochar Monastery
61. Image of Jambyang (Alanju-ghosha) i n Khochar Gompa -
62. St occ~-i mage of Praj w-parami t a agd some Frescos i n t he back-
g r ~ u n d
63. Ruined columna of a Fort a t Purbu destroyed by General
Zaravar Singh . -
64. General Zoravar Singh's Samedhi -
65. Tasam's (Transport Officer's) Tent i n Chhakra Man+ -
66. Bales of Gur i n o Tasam (Transport Office) awaiting transportation
t o Lhesa -
67. Gyanima Mandi
68. Tirthapuri Gompa
69. Representation of Dolma (Tara) on t he back of Tirthopuri Uompa
70. Guru-gem Gompa . -
71. Khy~mgl ung Gompo, and Cave-dwellings situated i n the Erosion
Terraces and Spriea of Volcanic Lava
-
72. Depoeite of Calcium Carbonate near t he Thermal springs a t
Khyunglung
73. The Deserted Cave-Colony of Pengtha
74. Mandhrta Peaks from Gurla La
75. View of t he Holy Kei l w from Zhong Chhu -
76. The Holy Mount Kailae (Southern View), Gombo-phang (Ravan
Parvat) on t he left and Kyangs in the foreground
77. Terchhen
$8. Raising of the Tarboehhe on Lord Buddha's Birthday -
79. Tnrhor hhe and Kailae -
80. Nynnri Gompa, t he First Monastery of TCailae
81. Western View of Kailns
82. Kailae Peak from the North-West, Pyramidal shapo
83. The Holy Kailoe between the two Sentinels-Chhegnadorje and
Chenroeig - 0 ' .
,a. Dira-phuk Gompa -
85. The Holy Kailne between Chenreeig and Jambyeng
88. Khando-aanqlam Glacier
b?. Dolma La (18,600 feet) -
88. aouri-kund, Frozen almost all the year round
89. Sounding the Lake Gouri-kund
90. Mollnt Knilns from Silung Gompa and the Conglomerate Neten'.
yelek-jong -
91. Mount Xailaa from i t s Southorn Foot
82. A Ulecier a t the Eastern Foot of Mount Kailae
-
03. Kailae-Manas~rovar Region from a Tibetan Painting drawn by
Lama Nav-Knahok
Q4. GoaeuLGornpa, the Fket Monastery of Manaearovar -
06. Sunrieq on the Celestial Lake
06. Cygnet8 in Captivity -
07. Thugolho Gompa, the Eighth Mon+etery of Rlanasnrovar, the
Hepdquar t a~ of the Author in Manese Khonda
g&. 'Janrua-Rhoomi' on the Holy hfanae -
88. ' Jnan N ~ k a ' on the Holy Lake
100. Bhree,Kailaa-Manan Yajna-Vedi -
101. Marble Tehlet on t he Y ajnn-Vedi -
102. The Sonrcea of the Foiir Great Rivera es described in Tibetan
Bcriptures (upecially designed) -
Fissures iu Frozen Manasarovar -
Unfissured Ice on Rakshas Tal, as soen from the Island Lachato
towards Topserma
A Pool of water with a Flock of Brahminy Ducks i n t he Frozen
Manas
E' nbs ~l t ms nt s of s m~l l e r pieces of Ice, resembling Glass panes
-
Mt nan~ravnr Frazon, with Fissures and Re g ~~l a r Blocks of Ice
piled up ~ n t o Embankments duo t o Coastal Explosions
Irregular Blocks of Ice
Zebra-like Deposits of Snow on t he Southern Shores of Rakshas Tal
Lachato with Kailas in the background
-
The Island Lachato -
The Breeding-ground of Napngha on t he Lachato, Mandhata i n
t he baclzground -
The Ielnnd Topsernla
Ralrshas Ta1 with. Oceanic Waves on one side, Mandhata Massif
i n t he background
Rakshe3 Tn1 Frozen into Ide on another side, ICailas mirroring'
i n i t
Sutlej Flowing out of Rakshas Tal
-
Gan a Chhu and Chiu Hi l l
-
Dr. Bven Hedin, bhe Farnous Swedish Brpl oi er
Senge Khambab, the Spring-source of tho Indus - - , I - -
Kanglung ICangri Gl ar~ors -
Chema-yungdung-pu Icaugri, one of the Soarce-Glaciors of
Brahmeputra
Tarnchok ~h:mmb& ICangri, the Bmhn~aput ra Glacier
-
Mapcha-Chr~ngo, tho Spring-Source of tho ICarnali
Milaln or Gori Glacior -
Front of Bodrinath Temple -
Thhuling Gompa
Temple at Kodarnath and the Snow-Peaks bohind
The Majostic Jal i nari Go r k with remnants of n Suspension
Bridge hanging a t a height of a thousand feet above t hdol -el
of tho River ..
Templo a t Gangotri -
Gengotri
Snout of the Gaumrikh Glacier and t he Satopanth Peaks -
A~narnat h Cave ' -
Snowirnage of Amarnath -
1,amaynrn Gompa
Hommis Gompa tho Biggest hIollastery iin Ladnkh wherefrom
'Tho Life of fllo Unknown Pelrrb of Josue Christ' was
diecovered
J Batch of Tibetan Soldiers on the occa.aion of t he Chhongdu
Hor~ernco Fair a t Gartok -
Ti bot ~n Ladios in Chhongdu -
Templo of ~nshupntfnrrth, Kathmandu
Carving8 on the Templo of Pashnpatinath
-
Hi s Exalted Hol i nes~ The Dnlai Lama, Politirnl and
Spiritiial Hoad of Tibet -
Potla, tho Rosidcnro of tho Ddai Lnma -
Taehi-Lhynpo, the abodo of the Panchhon Lama
-
SKETCHES I N THE BODY OH THE BOOK
1. Om me ni pad me hiim hri
2. The Bracket in Khochnr Gompa
3. Tanko-Obvor~o and Revorso -
4.
Compsrativo Sizoa of the Image of Amarnath i d
Difforont Months
6. Triangles
MAPS
MAP NO. 1.
VARIOUS ROUTES TO THE H O W KAILAS
-
AND MANASAROVAR ( see p. 89)
-
THE HOLY KAILAS AND MANASAROVAR
(seep. 120) - - - -
THE HOLY KAILAS (see P. 125) - -
THE HOLY MANASAROVAR AND RAKSHAS
TAI, (see p. 130) - - -
TIBET AND ADJACENT LANDS - -
MOUNTAIN RANGES-THE HIMALAYAS -
GOURI-KUND - - - -
PANORAMlC SKETCH OF SNOW-PEAKS OF
THE HIMALAYAS AS SEEN FROM BINSAR
(JHANDI PEAK) AND KAUSANI - -
RELIEF OF THE ROUTE TO KAILAS AND
MANASAROVAR AT A GLANCE - -
KATHMANDU AND ADJACENT TIRTHAS -
Page
At the end o]
the book
I NSETS I N MA P NO. 1
11. 1. ISLAND LACHATO (see p. 11)
12. 2. ISLAND TOPSERMA (see p. 11)
13. 3. HOW MANASAROVAR FROZE (see p. 27)
14. 4. FISSURES I N MANASAROVAR (see p. 29)
16. 5. HOW MANASAROVAR MELTED (see P. 36)
16. 6. TA-CH'ING MAP AFTEl$ DUTREUIL DE Rt IINS
17. 7. AUTHOR'S SKETCH OF THE RE& SOURCE OF
BRAHMAPUTRA (see P. 16)
FOREWORD
Fifteen years ago, when writing my autobiography, the thought
of Manasarovar came to me.
That thought had been hovering in my
mind for many a year. It was something which filled me with de-
light and I had worked out many a plan for paying my homage to this
wonder Lake of Tibet and %now-covered Kailas nearby. But those
plans remained unfulfilled, for my journeys led me elsewhere and I was
filled with regret t hat I would never reach Kailas and Manasarovar.
Still the thought of them cheered my mind and I quoted in my book
some lines from Walter de la Mare :
"Yea, in my mind these mountains rise,
Their perils dyed with evening's rose ;
And still my ghost sits a t my eyes
And thirsts for their untroubled snows."
I wonder still if I shall ever visit Kailas and Manasarovar.
But
I can atleast read about them and look a t pictures of then1 and thus,
to some extent, soothe the longing which has possessed~ine for so long.
And so I welcome this book which tells us so much about these
mountains that I hgve loved and this Lake that I have dreamt about.
1 hope &at i t will lead others t o undertake this journey across our
beloved Himalayas t o t hat roof of the world, where Kailas and
Manasarovar are situated.
.
New '7th Delhi, April 1949 .}
Jw
PREFACE
It is common knowledge that there has been no authoritative
book on Kailas and Manasarovar published in English till 1938. The
few guides that were available mere either haphazard accounts and
not systenlatically done, or compiled by persoils who depended for
their illformation on others, or incorporated hearsay material in their
guides.
The author had the privilege of travelling in 1928, for the first
time, in Western Tibet on a visit to these Holy places. He went from
Srinagar (Kashmir) through Ladakh, Gartok, Gyaninla Mandi, round
Kailas and Manasarovar, to Taklakot, Khocharnath, Chhakra Mandi,
again t o Gartok; and back to Rishikesh, by the Gunla-Niti pass.
I n 1935 he undertook a secoild journey from Mukhuva (Gangotri)
through Nilang by the Jelukhaga pass, Thulillg, Mangnang, Dapa,
Dongpu, Sibchilim, Gyailima Mandi, Kailas-Manasarovar, Chhakra
Mandi, and back to Gangotii by the Damjan-Niti pass. I n 1936-37
and again in 1938 he travelled from Almora by the Lipu Lekh pass and
returned by the same route. He had the privilege of staying for
a full twelve-month in the Thugolho Moilastery on the southern shores
of Manasarovar for his spiritual sndhana. 111 the course of these
travels he had opportunities of tracing the 'Four Great Rivers' of
this Region, namely the Brahinapurta, the Indus, the Sutlej, and t he
Karnali, to their sources, of going over the frozen lake of Rakshas
Tal from east to west and north to south, and landing on the two
islands in it. He visited these regions again in 1939 by the Unta-dhura,
Jayant4 and Kungri-bingri passes.
The author has been visiting these places regularly every year and
staying there f b ~ periods rangiila from two t o six moilths ; besides,
he had occasioil to spend a coiltinuous sixteen-~nonth, a secoild
t i de in 1943-44 on the shores of the Holy Manasarovar at Thugolho.
I n all, he completed 23 j5avikral~zas or circumabulatioils of the Mount
Kailas and 26 of. the Lake Manasarovar, of which 7 rounds were
done in winter when the surface of the entire Lake was frozen. He
collected some fossils from the Ganga Chhu and Thugolho in 1945 and
from Bongza range in Central Tibet in 1947. In 1946 he visited the
Deserted Cave-City of Pangtha.
He feels confident that with his extensive first-hand knowledge
of these regions, he is in a position to render a minute and thorough-
going account of these places with special emphasis on all important
detalls likely to be of use and interest to pilgritns and tourists. I n
his first book 'Pilgrim's Coinpanion to the Holy Kailas and Manasarovar',
published in 1938, he endeavoured to present the material in some
detail. ,Ever since the publication of the 'Con~panioil' he has been
trying to bring out a more comprehensive work on Kailas-Manasarovar
Region, useful not only t o the tourist but also of general interest to the
.student of geography. I n fact, his book 'Kailas-Manasarovar'*,
written in Hindi, was intended t o be a comprehensive and authoritative
volume on these two mystic places, held sacred by Hindus and
Buddhists alike.
The present publication is just a free English version of the Hindi
'Kailas-llfannsavovar' brought up to date, though, on account of prohi-
bitive cost of printing materials, i t has not been possible to bring out as
big a volume. In compiling this book he has departed from the usual
method ordinarily adopted so far by writers on this subject and has
systematized the materials contained in his travel diaries amounting
to over 1,500 pages. I n his attempt t o limit the compass of this
book the author has inevitably t o omit certain portions which he
would have liked t o incorporate, viz., 1. An index of reference to all
Puvanas and other Sanskrit works in which Kailas and Manasarovar
are described ; 2. A list of authors and books written on Kailas and
Manasarovar in English and Indian languages ; 3. A systematic note
on the minerals and geological specimens and other articles collected by
him from this Region; and 4. A chapter giving an account of his adven-
tures during his sojourn in the Manasa Khanda-which, he hopes, he
will be able to include in a future edition. I n the attempt to make
each Wave self-contained and independent, repetition of certain
things has becorne inevitable, which i t is hoped will be appreciated
by the reader.
Acknowledgments : The author hereby expresses his deep debt of
gratitude and profound respects t o his Revered Guru Deva Shree
1108 Dr. Swami Jnananandaji Maharaj, who has always been a
source of inspiration and the sole guiding spirit in all his undertakings,
both spiritual and scientific.
The author has pleasure in recording his feeling of elation and thank-
fulness t o the Hon'ble Shree Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, Prime
Minister of India, for kindly and readily consenting t o go through the
book and contribute a foreword, despite his multifarious important
activities.
The author's thanks are also due t o the Surveyor-Geneial of India
for getting the maps printed for him in the Survey of India Office, and
t o Mr. K. L. Dev, Officer-in-Charge, Photo-Litho Office, and to
Mr. P. Sen Gupta, Progressing Offrcer, for expediting the printing of
the maps, in spite of heavy work in the office.
The author expresses his sincere thanks to Dr. S. P. Chatterjee,
Pr~bliahed by the Hindi Snhityn Snmmelnn, Allehebed, 440 pp., 117 Illuatrntions, end
9 maps.
3. Hia Xighness Xsharsjashree Krishna Ku~mr Sinhs, x.o.eJ.,
Mahm~~ja Baheb of E3havnaga.r (K&tihi~ww),
Hie Fdxodlenoy The Clioveirnor of Madrtm
* [&we pyfod~
4. The Hon'ble Dr. Sampurnanandra, Minister of
Edusation end Labour. U. P.
M.Sc., Ph.D., D.I,itt., F.G.S., Head of the Department of Geography,
~a i c ut t a University (now in Rangoon University), for the keen interest
he has always taken in the author's activities and for having got the
sketches of maps Nos. 7-10 fair-copied in his department.
The author is thankful to the Hon'ble Dr. B. V. Keskar, Deputy Minis-
ter, External Affairs, Government of India, for the great interest he
evinced in these Himalayan tours; and to the Hon'ble ShreeLalBahadur
Shastri, Minister of Police and Transport (U.P.), the Hon'ble Shree
Chandra Bhan Gupta, Minister for Health and Civil supplies (U.P.);
Mr. A. K. Robertson, M.B.E., J.P., Deputy Commissioner of Police,
Calcutta; and to Shree S. C. Das, Deputy Chairman, and Mr. C. F.
Kelly, G.C., Deputy River Surveyor of the Port Commissioners,
Calcutta, for their co-operation and services rendered in the prepara-
tion of the equipment for his expedition to Kailas-Manasarovar in
1948 and 1949.
Shree Bhupendra Singh Pramar, Raja Sahib of Barwari (Bhagal-
pur District, Billar) defrayed the major part of the expenses for his
first sojourn on Kailas-Manas for one full year in 1936-37, as a result
of which the author has discovered the Sources of the Four Great
Rivers and collected a great portion of the material contained in this
work.
His Highness Maharajashree Sir Krishila Kumar Sinha, K.C.S.I.,
Maharaja Sahib of Bhavnagar (Kathiawar), now His Excelleilcy the
Governor of Madras, has presented the author with a steel sailing-
cum-motor dinghy for exploratioil work on Manasarovar.
Shree T. N. Krishnaswami of Dalal & Co, Madras has borne the
cost of~xpedition to Rakshas Tal and Tso Kapala in 1942, as a result
of which the author made a close study of Rakshas Tal and its islands ;
and collected m e important fossils and some fresh materials regard-
ing the source of the Sutlej and fts so-called 'old-bed'.
Shree K. I,. Dev, now Chief Manager, Survey of India Office,
Dehra Dun, whoo took great interest in the author's survey and
exploration workkn the Kailas Region, has borne the major part of the
expenses of the author's second sojourn on the Kailas-Manas for a
sixteen-month in 1943-44, as a result of which the author could check
up the d d material and collect a good deal of further information
incorporated in this book.
Shree Amritlal D. Sheth, Editor, ' Janma-Bhoomi', Bombay, a
distinguished patron of learning lover of ancient culture, a philan-
thropist, and a widely travelled journalist of repute, has borne the
entile cost of the boat-expedition of 1946, as a result of which
the author has sounded the Gouri-kund, the highest lake (18,400
feet) ever sounded so far, and collected some fossils and also reached the
northern and southern foot of the Kailas Peak and ascertained the
nature of the rocks constituting its walls. Shree Amrit Bhai has made
another munificent donation t o the author in 1947 by which he
could transport his full-length non-collapsible metal boat t o the Lake
Manasarovar which was lying a t Almora for five years. The
Sheth has also promised to kindly undertake the publication of the
Gujarati counterpart of the author's Hindi work 'Kailas-Manasarovar'
and evinces a keen interest in the author's scientific activities on the
Manas.
Shree Raja Nayani Venkata Ranga Rao Bahadur, Zamindar,
Munagala Estate (Krishna District), who is a great patron of learning,
has kindly borne the major part of the expenses of the expedition to
Kailas-Manasarovar in 1948, which enabled the author to go round
the Mandhata Range and collect fresh material to fix the Nepal-
Tibetan boundary adjoining the Manas Region.
The author seeks to convey his grateful thanks to these six gentlemen
for the voluntary and generous help they have rendered by which he
could fulfil his long-cherished desires.
The author has great pleasure in expressing his sense of appreciation
for the help the U. P. Government have been pleased to render him
by way of a small grant for his exploration work in Manas Region
during the year 1947. The Hon'ble Dr. Sampurnananda, Minister
of Education, and Labour, U.P., has been pleased to make a grant
from his department in 1948, to defray the cost of an outboard motor
for the author's boat and a further grant in 1948-49 to enable the author
to complete his exploratory work on Manasarovar. The author cannot
be sufficiently thankful to the Hon'ble Dr. Sampurnananda for the
keen interest he has taken in the author's exploratory work alln for his
sustained encouragement. With the aid of this motor-boat the author
wants to locate the thermal springs in the bed of Bhz Lake Manas,
which would usher in a new chapter'in the history of Manasarovar.
The author is equally grateful and thankful to Shree .KesHab
Mohan Thakur (Zamindar, Shree-Bhavan, Barari, Jhagalpur), Shree
Hiralal Amritlal Sheth and Shree Yashvantarai Girija Shankar Pathak
(Vasanta Vijaya Mills, Bombay), Shree Chaitmani Sinha and
Shree Thakur Prasad Sinha (Zamindars, Sukhpur, ~hagalpur),
Shree Rohanlal Chaturvedi, B.A., LL.B. (Zamindar, Etah, U.P.),
Pandit Daya Shankar Dube, M. A., LL. B.
(Allahabad university),
who each bore the expenses of his stay for a season on the shores of
the Kailas-Manas.
The author has also to record his hearty thanks to his Gunt-Brother
Shree 108 Swami Prajnananqndaji Maharaj (Chidananda Ashram,
Puivedala, Andhra), Shree M. B. I,. Dar, I. A. S. (Secretary to
Government, U.P., Local Self-Government Department), Shree D. V.
Subba Rao, B.A. (Deputy Commissioner of Police, Prohibition,
xxiii
Madras), Pandit Jagatram Shankar Prasad Vaidya (Director, Zandu
Pharmaceutical, Works, Bombay), Shree C. C. Saha (Calcutta), Shree
Nalini Kanta Sarkar (Calcutta), Hari Prasad Vrajaraj Desai (Sholapur),
Dr. B. Venkata Narasimham (Nidadavolu), Shree Chunduri Venkata
Reddi, B.A., Shree A. Venkata Ramanayya (Andhra Granthalaya
Press, Vij ayavada), Shree Naresh Mohan Thakur (Zamindar, Barari),
Shree K. Ramakrishnamurti, B. A., B.Ed. (Eluru), and several other
friends who rendered financial aid for his pilgrimage t o Kailas and
Manasarovar on various occasions. The author's thanks are also due
to Messrs. Laxmilal Anand Brothers, Almora, and to several Bhotia
and Tibetan friends who rendered him valuable service in various
ways during his several trips to these sacred places.
Last, but not least, it gives the greatest pleasure t o the author
to take this opportunity of expressing his respectful thanks t o His
Holiness Shree 108 Swami Kaivalyanandaji Maharaj of the S. P.
League, Calcutta, who is mainly responsible for the publication of
the book. The author's thanks are also due to Shree A. Jogarao, M.Sc.
and Shree S. Raju, M.Sc., Benares Hindu University, who have taken
keen interest and pains in going through the manuscript minutely.
SWAMI PRANAVANANDA,
Thugolho Gompa, (Of the Holy Kailas and Manasarovar),
Manasarovar. Shyam Nivas,
Almora.
I
ICAILAS - MANASAROVAR
FIRST WAVE
,A TWELVE-MONTH ON THE HOLY KAITJAS
AND
TAKE MANASA-SAROVAR
C H A P T E R I
MOUNT KAILAS AND LAKE MANASAR.OVAR
THE HIMALAYAS
'#ST> d T f T ~ k p Em: g f q q ss W: 1 l 1 l
d v4Gm: cfm~cq awq $71 E* c7wf~ T;te~$ I
1. I n tlie northern part there is a mighty mouiitain by name
Himalaya-the abode of perpetual snow-fittingly called the Lord of
niountaiiis, animated by Divinity as its soul and internal spirit (or in
other words, Divinity Incarnate). Spanning tlie wide laitd from t he
eastern t o the western sea, he stands as i t were like tlie ~neasuriiig
rod of earth.
2. 4 t the direction of the Kiiig Prithu, tlie selfsame inountain was
used as a calf by all other mountains, while t he RiIouiit Meru (Kailas)
stood as an expert milker of cows aiid niilched the Mother Eart h
(as if from a cow) the milk of shining gems aiid medicinal herbs
of wonderful virtues and supreliie efficacy (in order t o adorn tlie
Himalayas) .' Iitrlidr~scr.'~ I<~c~t earnsa~nbhu. ~' a~t ~
The Hiilialayas (snow-abode), also kno\vii as Hi r~~nvat , Hi~rzncltala,
Hiirzadri aiid Giri Ziaja, are tlie highest mountains in the world,
tliough the youngest, aiid extend for 1,600 miles along tlie whole of
tlie uortlieril boundary of India. Runniiig fro111 Kandhar and Kasllniir
right up t o easfe7n end of Assam, they cover a tract of land from 200
t o 300 iiiiles in breadth. There are picturesque descriptions of tlie
Hilllalayas in Sanskrit literature and nunierous hooks 1la1.e heen
written by tlie NLesteriiers in praise of tllcse snoiv-clad niouiitains.
, .
lliey iriclude several ranges of lofty niountains, onc 1)eliind anotller :
the Great Himalaya Range, 1,esser I-Tinialaya liange, Karakoraiii
Raiige (Krishi~a Giri), Hinclukusli2, Hi ~i du Raj, Knilas, I,adakll,
Zaskar, Malial)liarat, I'irpaujal, 1)liaol 1)11;11., 13\-a1is, Nagatibbn,
Si~valik Rmgc (Maillaka Giri), and so on. 111 tllcsc tlicre are several
sky-kissing 1)eaks like the RIouiit 1l:vcrest'' ((>ouri Sllankar, 2!),141
1 'I'l~rtt in I,o R I I . ~ I111a1, 1.110 H i ~ ~ ~ ~ i l i ~ y ; i . s 11ro ric.11 i l l t r ~i ~t r ~. i ~l ivr11lt11 : I I I ~ 1101.;1. Invi sl ~l ~l boatowotl
I )y N:Pt,r~rc t~ntl eutond Frnn~ t,he ( ~ I L R ~ O ~ I I t.o tho ~ . ~ ~ ~ t , f l l ' l l RCn. According tto Iinlida,sn'a nomancln-
tmo, Himn.lnyn Rl n~~nt , ni n~ inrlltdn Nn,mkiu XTor~t~i,;tin~. 1'n.tnkai Rnngr, n.nd Brnlttu~ YOI I I ~ on
t8bo cmnt and Hi nt l ~~kr~sl l hlortntfiitls, S~~l r~i rnnn, nnd l i i ri , t~r H,a.ngo on t . 1 1 ~ wcwt.
2 A. Wi l so~i Itoylo (INST,) rot ~si d~rn F l i l ~ d ~ t k ~ t ~ l ~ t,o hn n. pnrt of t,hr Himr\layns.
3 Itu Til~ot~n.n ncllno is K1tnq-cl1omo-l1111~1nn. I'rol~lc of Arltn ICosi nrra it1 AInjl~-Kirnt
1)isl.ric.t iy Nvpn.l t ~l l l l.llo 1':vc:ro~t Ily 1 . 1 1 ~ nilnlc or l i r ~ ~ n l ) l ~ i ~ - k l ~ r ~ ~ n Ln.ngur (1)('11l<).
4 KAI I , : \ S - M B N A S A R O V A R
feet), KB or Godwin Austen (28,250), Kaizchana-janghal (28,146), Makalu
(27,790), Dhavalagiri (26,79.5), Nanga Parvat (26,660)) Gosaithan
(26,291)) Nanda Devi (25,645), KametY (Ganesh Shikhar 25,447)) Gurla
Mandhata (25,355), Zongsong (24,472), Chomo-lhari (23,930) ; Drona-
giri (23,184), Gouri Shankar (23,440), Trisul (23,406 ; 22,490 ; 22,360),
Chaukhamba (Svargarohini, 2:3,420), Pancha Chulhi (22,650), Nandakot
(22,510), Kailas (22,028), and a host of others, besides some hundreds
of peaks which are above 20,000 feet high. Stupelldous is the scenery
of the Himalayas and the most sublime are her snow-peaks. There
are some of the deepest and the most beautiful gorges and valleys
(like Gilgit and Brahmaputra gorges and Bhagirathi valley near
Bhairav-ghati), some of the biggest and finest glaciers (like Pindari
and Baltaro glaciers) and some of the highest plateaus. " No Alpine
gorge can seriously compare with majestic, almost incredible, trans-
verse gorges of the Himalayas ". 3 It is in these mighty mountain
ranges that there is habitation even at a height of 17,000 feet above
sea-level. In beautiful scenes and exquisite panoramas Himalayas
excel the best parts of the Alps of Europe and Rockys of America.
Kashmir-the paradise on earth-, Kullu, Lahul, Kumaon, Nepal,
Sikkim, and Bhutan-Nature's beauty spots, are all situated in the lap
of the Himalayas.
The Himalayas are rich in mineral wealtlr like coal, borax, lead,
iron, lime, gold, etc. ; abound in all kinds of wild animals i~lcluding the
lion, the tiger, the elephant, and the rhinoceros, and the most beautiful
birds ; are the abode of the best timber, fruit-trees, plants,
medicinal herbs, ancl beautiful flowerbeds; are full of health-resorts and
beauty-spots ; and are the very divellings of saints and sages. Nowhere
else on this globe has Nature been so lavish in the bestowal of her gifts
with so much of variety and ideal conclitions than in !.& wilds of these
mighty Himalayas.
Sir Francis Younghusband, President of the Royal Geographical
Society, London, considered that the ~ i m a l a ~ a s were responsible
for fostering a religious feeling in the people of ~nhi a, who had dis-
covered a number of places for pilgrimage there. He thought that
I K a ~ t c h n ~ ~ u in Sanskrit, rclcsnns go111 and junyhn t.lligl~ ; so, h'n,tchurra-,jc~~~gI,o nlenns g(llden
!.high, I)cScnr~8e this nlxssif appo~1. 9 like gold when t he amhor rnys of t he null Fnll on i t .
A
fuw Nc~).zliw inrli~crin~irlately cfrll t h i ~ pralr :~luo ICurnhhnknrnn Langur. Itn l'ibotnn nnme
is K, ~ n ~ - r l ~ o n - c - I ~ n ~ ~ g a which means 'glnc'icrw-big-fivo' or five big ice-rlnd pel ~ks. It is also rnllrtl
linrlg-rhrn.zo-nxlb or ' glarier.~-l)ig-trr:m~~~r~~-fiv~' or five ~ ~ , : : I , RI J P ~ R of gr ci ~t snow, for
i t in :G groiip of five peaks. Tho pr p~e nt English pronlcnriation ' Ki nchi nj l ~ngn' in not liked
oithor hy tlrc: Intlixns or tho Ti l ~et nnn.
2 The? word Karnvt i w of Ti l ~et an nrigili ; Iin,,q-n~r~l--~l:~rit~r.firc. 'rllis I~ci ng t,he Iri I c ( ~t
~ r : t k in t hr ntginn, i t \unt~ld cxt,rll t he first ray3 nf tllo rising nun n ~ ~ ( l tho l n ~ t rays of th*
n ~ t l i n ~ s r l r l , Il~r.ring 111) t h ~ ire 011 t he tclp lilic: x h~l yn lnxns of fi1.e ; henre t he nnmo Knngmrtl or
I<%mc>t.
3 z~rc~olcl HI ~I I ) .
S l G N I P I C A N C E O F P L A C E S OF I ' I I , GR I B l A ( ; H 5
this. effect of the Himalayas on the people of the country would be
still further increased than in the past, 11rhei1 efforts would be made
110th in India and England to lead expeditioiis to the Himalayas t o
discover the best panoramas of the mountains. Younghusband fur-
ther says, " Efforts should be made both in Illclia and England t o lead
expeditions to the Himalayas to find out the best view-points of the
nlountaiiis and make them known t o the outside world. When these
best spots would be discovered, they m-ot~ld be turnecl into and
preserved as places of pilgrimage."
SIGNIFICANCE OF PLACES OF PILGRIMAGE1
When incense is burnt in a particular place and even after i t has
been exhausted, its aroma spreads t o its surroundings and reniairis
diffused for a shorter or a longer period according t o the quality of
the incense. If anybody goes into t hat atmosphere, he is affected
by that aroma. Similarly, the atmosphere in those places where
mahatmas, rishis, yogis and sages live or have lived in the past is full
of subtile vibrations of their tapas. Just as a field of the magnetic
force is formed around a magnet, similarly there is formed a field of
spiritual vibrations in those places where the sages had lived and
did tapas. And just as every particle of iron t hat goes into the
magnetic field is attracted and affected by it, likewise the mind of
every person who goes into the spiritual atmosphere is attracted and
affected by i t spiritually, knowingly or unkilowingly t o some extent
or other.
Most of the places of pilgrimage of the Hindus are held sacred for
the richness of the marvellous spiritual vibrations which pervade
those places. i %t he book called Sh~, ~ddha Tattvn, the cause of the
sanctity or holiness of tirthas oreplaces of pilgrimage has been des-
cribed thus :
7'i~rtltas are said to be sanctified or considered holy by the great
efficacy ofmearth, water, and fire and by the fact that t~zanis or sages
have lived there.
I t is with the view of elevating and enriching their psychic and
spiritual planes by the eiiiiobliiig vibrations existing in the tirtha-
sthanas that jijnasus or spiritual aspirants visit those places in spite
of the various difficulties, dangers, a& inconveniences they have to
face i n the long jouniey. There are several tirfhas charged with
,
spiritual vibrations ill the Himalayas aiid on the banks of the Holy
Ganges, Yan~una, Narnlada, Sindhu, Godavari, Krishna, Kaveri,
Tamraparni etc. and elsewhere in this Bharatvarsha. Such were
the invaluable treasures of spiritual aura t hat have been bequeathed
t o posterity by the Aryan seers, sages, and great teachers of the hoary
past. But now-a-days people a t large rush with terrific speed t o
tirthas, pay a flying visit and go back in a day or two, without taking
proper and full advantage of the spiritual vibrations existing in those
places by staying there calmly and quietly for some time and taking to
spiritual practices. There are no doubt some aspirants and mahatmas
who are benefiting themselves consciously by the wonderful effects
of the spiritual atmosphere pervading the tirthas, by staying there
for some time calmly. It is in view of t he benefit derived from the
spiritual vibrations existing there t hat there is an injunction
in the shastras t hat pilgrims t o the tirlhas should stay there for at
least three nights.
So far as our knowledge goes, the Kailas and Manasarovar are the
holiest of the several tirthas in the Himalayas. I n the surroundings
of the Holy Kailas and Manasarovar, even the most wandering.mind,
t o whatever religion it may belong-whether t o Hinduism or Buddhism,
Christianity or Mohammadanism, whether t o atheism or agnosticism
-becomes concentrated and irresistibly, unknowingly, and unconscious-
ly drawn as if propelled by some one from behind t o the Divine Pre-
sence, t hat is hidden behind this apparent vast universe ; while a good
sadhaka may even enter into sublime ecstasies involuntarily. But,
just as a man, the niucus membrane of whose nose has become dull,
cannot perceive the sweet odour of a rose, a i ~d just as a radio 'set can-
not receive a sorig from a foreign prograinme unless i t is set t o the
proper wavelength of t hat place, evcr~ so, i t is iio wokler t hat a person
devoid of any spiritual tendencies cannot perceive or feel the effect
of the spiritual vibrations, existing in a particular place.
' All that is beazllifi41 i s sacred '
Two hui~dred ai ~t l forty 111iles from Al~ilora ill U. 1'. a i d 800 nliles
froin Lhasa, the capital of 'l'ibet, stariil nioullt Kailas ( +m)
Lake hlanasarovar coilstituti~~g oile of the graiirlest of the Himalayall
l~eattty spots. 'l'he perpetual snow-clad Peak of the Holy Kailas
(styled Ka r ~g l<ilipochhe ill the Tibetan language) of tioary atiticluity
and celebrity, the spotless design of Nature's art , of most bewitchi%
and overpowering beauty, has a vibration of the supreme order from
the spiritual point of view. I t seems t o stand as an itniriediate
revelation of the Alinighty ill conci-cte form, ~vhicli ~nakes ~i i ; ~n 1)elld
Rl OUNT KAI T, AS A N D L A K E R l A N A S A R OV A R 7
his knees and lower his head in reverence.
It s gorgeous silvery summit,
with the lustre of spiritual aura, pierces into a heavenly
height of 22,028 feet above the level of the even bosom of the sea.
The parikranza or circumambulatioil of the Kailas Parvat is about
32 miles. There are five Buddhist inonasteries (gonzpas) around it
singing, year in and year out, the glory of the Buddha, the Enlightened,
and his five hundred Bodhisattvas, and of the Guardian Deity
Demchhog and his consort Dorje-Phangino (Vajra-Varalli), said to
he seated on the top of the Sacred Peak of Kailas. Mount Kailas is
reverenced in Sanskrit literature as the abode of the All-blissful Lord
Shiva and his divine espouse, Parvati, the All-enchanting Prakvlti
(Nature), which from 20 miles off is overlooking the Holy Mana-
sarovar and the Rakshas Tal on the south, bedecked with graceful
swans.
The Holy Manasa-sarovara (~m-&q) or Manasarovar, the Tso
Maplzaln or Tso J l a vn~~g of the Tibetans, is the holiest, the most
fascinating, the most inspiring, the ,most famous of all the lakes
in the world and the most ancient t hat civilizatioil knows. " Manasarovar
was the first lake k i i o ~ ~ n t o geography. Lake Manasarovar is fanlous
in Hindu mythology ; i t had in fact become famous inany centuries
before the lake of Geneva had aroused any feeling of admiration in civi-
lized man. Before the dawn of history Manasarovar liad become
the sacred lake and such i t has remained for four n~illennium."~ She
is majestically calm and dignified like a huge bluish-green emerald or
a pure turquoise set between the two mighty and equally majestic
silvery mountains, the Kailas on the north and the Gurla Mandhata
on theosouth and between the sister-lake Rakshas Tal or Ravana Hrada
(Langak Tso of the Tibetans) on the west and some hills on the east.
It s heaving b%m, reflecting tile resplendent golden rays of the
waning sun and the myriad pleasant hues of the vesper sky, or her
smooth surface itiirroring the amber columns or silvery beams of the
rising sun or nioofi, adds a mystic charm, all her own, t o the already
mysteriously chayming 1,ake. Froin spiritual point of view, she
has a most enrapturing vibration of tlle supreme order t hat can
soothe and lull even the inost \mndering mind into sublime serenity
mid can ?ransport i t illto illvoluntary ecstasies. Stretching majesti-
cally over an extensive cradle of the Tibetail plateau and hanging at
a lieavenly height of 14,950 feet above the sea-level, tlle \last expanse
of the I,ake, wit11 a circuinference of about 54 miles and a depth of
nearly :I00 feet, covers an area of 200 square miles. There stand
eight moliasteries oti the holy shores: wherein Buddhist lno~iks strive
1 $. C f . I31trrnr(l and 11. H. Hnytlrn, ' 11 akrtrl~ of t, l~t! grogmphy nntl goology of t h ~ Himn-
1:i):i t n o ~ ~ t j t ~ ~ i ~ i ~ , I I I ( I Ti l ~r t '. l h~l l ti , S I I ~ VI I V of T t i ~ l i ~ (I!W). l'art, TI T. p. 228.
8 K A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A K
all their lives to attain the sublimity of the eternal silence of
Nirvana.
I n order to realize and appreciate the grandeur of the Holy Lake
fully, one has actually t o spend a twelvemonth on her shores. For
those who have not paid her even a casual visit, i t would be difficult,
if not impossible, t o imagine the diverse aspects of beauty that she
presents round the different seasons of the year to close observers.
By far the most magnificent and thrilling of one's experiences would
be in winter when the whole Lake freezes hard, and again in spring
when she breaks and melts to clear blue waters. It is only the ins-
pired poet or the divine artist with his magic colours that can, for
instance, describe and represent adequately the beauty and grandeur
of sunrise and sunset on the Lake.
TIBETAN AND HINDU hIYTHO1,OGY
Two versions of Kattgri Karchhak, the Tibetan Kailasa Purana,
have been published in Tibe!an, one from Dira-phuk Gompa and
the other from Gengta. Also two abstracts of these are printed and
they are called Soldep. Kangri Karchhak says that Kailas is in the
centre of the whole universe towering right up into the sky like the
handle of a mill-stone, that half-way on its side is Kalpa- Vriksha (wish-
fulfilling tree), that i t has square sides of gold and jewels, that the
eastern face is crystal, the southern sapphire, the western ruby, and the
northern gold. It also says that the Peak is clothed in fragrant flowers
and herbs, and there are four footprints of the Buddha on the four
sides, so that the Peak might not be taken away into the sky by the
deities of that region and four chains so that the denizens of the
lower regions might not take it down.
The presiding cleity of Kailas is Demchhokl (fihavmapala), also
called Pavo. He puts on tiger skins and garlands of human skulls
and holds damavzb (vibrant drum) in one hand and khatam (trident)
in the other. Round Kailas are some more deities sitting in 990 rows
with 500 in each. All these also put on tiger skins, etc. as Demchhok.
The Shakti or the consort of Demchhok is Dorje-Phangmo or Vajra-
Vnrahi, who is shown in Tibetan paintings and idols, clinging to him
in inextricable embrace interlocked in sexual union. Adjacent to
the Kailas Peak is situated on its western side a smaller snow-peak
called Tijung, which is said to be the abode of Dorje-Phangmo. Be-
sides these T,ord Buddlia and his 500 Bodhisatlvas are said to be
residing on the Kailas Peak. At the foot of the sacred Peak is seated
Hanumanju, the monkey-god. There are also the abodes of several
more deities around Kailas atid Manasarovar. All these deities could
10. TWaipa GffMdvaMon.
PA& b' @&Hsq ej' Dr.
An&& .r A-
M-. ; : JdWgmten-
v*;m
- . - [&ep. 91
, - .
-
?: *--
L A .
Buspeneion Bridge
on the river Barayu
at Bera&httt
[ de e p. I l l
T I B E T A N A N D H I N D I J RZ S T HOL OGY 9
be seen only by the pious few.
Soulids of bells, cymbals, and other
musical instruments are heard on the top of Kailas.
There are seven rows of trees round the Holy Manasarovar, and
there is a big mansion in it, in which resides the king of Nags (serpent-
gods) and the surface of the Lake is like an arc with a huge tree in the
middle. The fruits of the tree fall into the Lake with the sound j am;
so the surro~ulding region of the earth is named ' Jambu-ling ', the
Jambu-dvipa of Hindu Puranas. Some of the fruits t hat fall into
the Lake are eaten by the Nags and the rest become gold and sink
down t o the bottom.
At one place i t is written t hat in the centre of the Jambu is the
glorioils mouiitain of Meru of various colours ; on the east i t is white like
a Brahmin ; on the south i t is yellow like a Vaisya ; on the north i t
is red like a Kshatriya ; and on the west i t is black like a Sudra. Four
mountains form buttresses t o Meru and on each of these stand seve-
rally a kadamba tree, a jamb24 tree, a fiifial tree, and a fig tree.
Since the advent of Aryan civilizatioi~ into India, Tibet and
especially the Kailas-Manasarovar Region have been glorified in the
Hindu n~ythology as part of the Himalayas. The Ramayana and the
Mahabharata, all the Pz~ranns in general, and Manasa-khandal of
Skanda Pzrratza in particular, sing the glory of Manasarovar. It is the
creatioii of the llzalcas (mind) of Brahma, the first of the Trinity of the
Hindu mythology ; and according t o some the Maharaja Mandhata
discovered the Manasarovar. Mandhata is said t o have done penance
on the shores of Manasarovar at the foot of the mountains which are
now knowil after liis name. Recently the author had read the des-
cription of Achhodasava ill Kadaufbavi of Bana Bhatta. He feels
t hat this lake cannot be ally other but the celestial Manasa-saras. The
description of Atdzhodasava is extreinely interesting although it does
not fully coincide wit11 facts.
a
In some Pali and Sanskrit Buddhist ~vorks, Manasarov~r is cles-
crihed as Alzofntla or A1.rariatapta, Lake ~vithout lieat and trouble.
111 its centre is a t ~ e e which bears fruits t hat are 'oinnipoteiit' in heal-
ing all h~~t nai i ailn~ents, phjrsical as well as mental, and as such much
sought after hy gods and inell alike. This A.rzavatapfa is described
as the o~iby true paradise on earth. It is also said t hat mighty
lotus flowers, as big as tlie An~itahha Buddha, bloom in the
Holy I,ake, nncl the I3utldha and the l3odhisattvas often sit on
those flowers. Heavenly Rnjahansas will he singing their celestial
nlelodies as they sw7im on tlie 1,ake. On the surrounding
I Tho n, ~~t , l ~or l l n ~ ROCIIL.(!(I 11 n11~1111s~ri pt~ ropy of Jlnnnsn-khondn from Al n~orn District.
Though it rlnilnn tjo 110 m ptwt of Rkntrdn Plcrct)cn, in fi~ct, it is not. I t i s not mom than t wo
or t,hrre hrintlrrtl yan.rs olrl n.nrl i n writt.rr1 by Rollla l'nndit nf Almorn.. Tho aiibhnr i nt , cnd~
1~1l)lishing i t wifh n trn~,sl:lt.io~i nnrl foot not,cs.
mountains of the Lake are found the shata-mulikas or hundred herbs.
I n Jain literature Kailas is called Ashtapada. Adinatha Vrisha-
bhadeva, the first Tirthankar of Jainism, was said to have attained
Nirvana at Kailas. I n Mahabharata Manasarovar is also known as
Bindzcsara and in Jain works as Padma Hrada.
PARIKRAMA
The Kailas Range is running from Kashmir to Bhutan, in which
that part of the mountain surrounded by the Lha chhu and Zhong
chhu is called Kailas Parvat, a t the northern edge of which is situat-
ed the Kailas Shikhar or Mount Kailas. This Peak is tetrahedronal
in shape and cannot be isolated for doing a circuit ; so pilgrims do
the round of the whole of Kailas Parvat which is 32 miles in circum-
ference.
Orthodox Tibetans do 3 or 13 rounds of the Kailas and the Manas
and some of the more pious pilgrims do the sashtanga-danda-pradak-
shina (prostration-circuit) of Manasarovar in about 28 days and of
Kailas in 15 days. Several Tibetans do the parikrama of Kailas in
a single day which is called ningkor. Some ridh and sick people who
cannot do the parikrama themselves engage beggars or coolies to do
the circumambulations of Kailas or Manasarovar and pay some
remuneration including money and provisions for the laborious
undertaking. Well-to-do Tibetans get parikramas done for the
benefit and peace of the souls of their departed relatives ; they pay one
sheep or three to six rupees for each parikrama. It is believed that
one parikrama of the Kailas Peak washes away sins of one life, 10 cir-
cuits wash away the sins of one kalpa, and 108 parikramas secure
Nirvana in this very life.
The five monasteries of Kailas ar,e (1) Nyanril Or Chhuku Gompa
(west), (2) Dira-phuk Gompa (north), (3) Zuthul-phuk Gompa (east),
(4) Gengta Gompa (south), and ( 6) Siluilg Gompa (south) . There are four
shapjes or footprints of the Buddha, four chaktaksnor chains, and four
chhak-chhal-gangs or changja-gangs round Kailas. There is a big flag-
staff called Tarbochhe at Sershung on the western side of Kailas. Day
or tar means flag or dhvaja and chhe or chhen means big ; so ~arbocche
or Tarbochhe means a big flag-staff, or Mahadhvaja ; i t r is locally
1 I n Tihettm nyrcn meanfl t he ' great Tihetan ehocp'. and ri nlenns ' rno~~rltnin' . Arcording
to a certain logend, B nyan ontored this mountain ; 80 it, is cnllod Nyanri nncl tllth golnl)R
constructed on it, Ny ~n r i aompe. Indian8 call i t wrongly N~ n d i 1,nt i t hm no conncctmion
whakoever with the Nandi, Shiva'e Bull, or t he Katyuri King Nnndi De n . RfIjR Nmdi
Devn was a contemporary of the Emporor Asoke, who lived two and (I half centuries hecore t he
Christian era. Buddhism wae introducedointo Tihot in tho flovent,h rentnry A.D. snd tho first
monwtery in Tibet wee conetruoted in A.D. 836 end none of tho monnst.orics of We~tern
Tibet wna constructed before t he ninth century. So, tho writing^ of somn, like the a1lthor
of Kurmnchab KnnCi, t o connect the namo of Nyenri with t hat of Rnj s Nandi ~ V R . of tfhp
h o k a n period, i q f ar from truth and an nnnrhmnism.
prolmunced Tarbochhe also.
To show reverence, it is also called
TaIchhen Kushok or Darchhen Kushok. A big fair is held there on
Vaishakha Shzckla Chatuvdasi and Pumi ma (full moon day in the month
of May), as this full moon day is the day of birth, enlightenment, and
death of Lord Buddha. About 600 to 1000 pilgrinls fro111 all parts
of Tibet (mostly from Purang valley) assemble here for the mela. On
the Chaturdasi day the flag-staff is dug out, old flags are removed,
new flags are tied to the pole, special pzcjas are done by the monks of
Nyanri or Chhuku Gompa, and half raised by the evening. The flag-
staff is fully raised on the full moon day by 9 a.m. and the whole
procession moves to Dira-phuk by the evening. The flag-staff is
hoisted in honour of Buddha, the Enlightened. The raising of the
flag-staff is done by the people of Purang-Taklakot under the direct
supervision oj the two officers of the Viceroys or Garpons of Gartok,
specially deputed for the work.
Situated on the eastern side of the Kailas Peak is GOURI-KUND, called
Thuki-Zingboo by Tibetans. It is a small beautiful oval-shaped lake
about 2 mile long and &mile broad, covered with sheets of ice almost all
the year round. The descent of avalanches into the lake from the south-
ern heights is rather a frequent occurrence. Pilgrims usually take bath
in this lake, for doing which very often, they shall have to break the
ice on its surface ; sometimes the ice is so thick that one desperately
hurls numbers of stones on i t and yet do not reach the water. No
Tibetan has ever seen or heard this lake to have been completely free
from ice. But in 1946 and 1947 i t completely melted away and
the autbor had the unique opportunity of launching his rubber boat
' Janma Bhoomi ' on it on August 28, 1946. He sank his lead in i t for
the first time and kook 61 soundings and the maximum depth recorded
was 84 feet. This is the highest lake ( 18,400 f t above sea-level) ever
sounded so far by any explorer or survey party.
SERDUNG-CHUKSFM is a line of 19 chhortens distributed in three groups
of 8, 9, and 2 (from east to west), situated in a belt, dug out into the
horizontal strata of conglomerate of the perpendicular wall of the
southern face of the Kailas Peak at its base. As one reaches the
base of the Kailas Peak, the grandeur of the view from different points
is most imposing arid simply sublime. On tlie southern side begin-
ning from the apex of the Kailas Peak, right up to a few hundred yards
above the base, there is a series of bare, rocky horizontal projectioiis.
Huge quantities of loose snow come down from the top through the
ladder-like groove, to the base of Kailas fonning a huge heap mixed
with the conglonlerate debris by the side of the Serdung-chuksum.
After 12 in the noon, long bars of ice are detached froin the crags of the
walls of Failas and hurled down with terrific speed and whizzing sounds
by the side of the chhortens. Ser iileans golcl or yellow ; dung or iung
meails conch or st upa ; and clzztkszcm ilieails thirteen. 'I'liese chhortens
were named Serdung-chuksun:, perhaps when there were thirteen.
These chhortens or chaityas are the moti~u~ients of the abbots of the
Dekung Monastery, which is 100 iniles north-west of 1,hasa. They
are looked after by the monks of the Gengta Moiiastery and are
periodically repaired and painted in yellow ochre.
This line of nineteen chhortens artistically set ill a belt of the' per-'
peiidicular wall of the Mount Kailas presents a fine view, as if so inany
sparrows are lining in the chiilk of a rock. Proni the Serdung-chuk-
sum the amphitheatre of Barkha plain and Rakshas Tal with the
gallery of mountain peaks, extending upto the Indiati borders, displays
a unique scene extremely superb. Tarchheil is about seven miles
from here, the whole distance being almost one continuous steep
ascent on sharp stones and moraines. About four and a half miles
steep descent from Serdung-chuksuni over 11:oraines to the easterii side
of Neten-yelak-zung would lead orie to the twill lakelets of Tso KAPALA,
also pronounced l'so Kapali, Tso Kavala, and Tso Kavali. The first
one is called Rukta and its water is black due to the colour of the
black stones in its bed, ancl is 660 feet in circun~ference. The other
is at a distance of a few yards but a 100 feet lower than the former,
and is called Durchi. It is about 1,320 feet in circumference ; arid its
water is milky-white. I n Kangri Karchhak it is said that the water of
Rukta is black like chhang (Tibetan beer) and of Durchi white like
milk. It is further said t hat the key of Kailas is in the lake Durchi and
t hat of Manasarovar in Langchen-phukl. Thotigh these l@es are
situated amidst bare stones with no sign of earth as far the eye could
see, at a few places in the bed of the lake Rukta, a ,soft alluvial soil
is thrown up which is carried by pilgrims as the pvasad of the place.
According to Tibetan tradition, only those who had completed
thirteen rounds of Kailas can visit these twp places. Only the
adventurous few can undertake this difficult trip to, Serdung-chuksu111
and Tso Kapala, but the trip would be rnore that1 con~peiisatory. The
author has visited tliese two places 011 four occasions, twice in 1937,
once in 1942, and once in 1046. The author is the first non-Tibetall
who had ever visited these places. Dr. Sveil Ilediii did not know of
these twin lakes of Tso Kapala, ancl has wrongly ilanlcd Thuki-Zingboo
or Gouri-kund as Tso Kavala. The author has collected a fourteen-
pound marine fossil-bed from Rukta on Septetnber 16, 1 9 4 2 . ~
From Ganga Chhu or Barkl~a one can easily see the appeararlce of
1
There n.rc two car es of t. hin nnlnr, OI I C I,c\lon. t , l ~o Synn1.i Golnpn nnrl t.hr ot,hrr 011 tlllc
nort,hern nhnrrs of Jlnnaua.rnrnr.
2
Sce t.ht3 hc.~tling ' PI I RR~ I ~ ' o.ntl the 11011t.r Tal,lrt 11.
a llxlge swan sitting on the southern face of the Kailas Peak, the steep
rock projectiolis foriliilig tlie neck. The gigantic *rock t hat is situated t o the
south of the Tijulig has got the appearance of asittinginonkey andiscalled
TYu- pu~~j u~i g or Hanuniaiiju in the Kangr i Karchhak, Haiiuliiali of
the Purarcas. This is seen froill long distances. Situated at the
southeril foot of Kailas is a inouiitaiii called Netell-yelak-jung con-
sisting of horizoiital strata of coiigloinerate and surrounded on either
side by streains coming froin the soutliern and tlie eastern bases of
Kailas. It is like a huge bull ( Nn n d i ) sitting in front of the Nature' s
Kailas-Temple. The majestic view of the Mount Kailas, t he veritable
Throne of Gods, soaring high between the peaks of Chenresig aiid
Chhagnadorje on the north, with its stretched out shoulder on t he
north-east, a little further up with a sonie\vhat conical form shooting
up from behind the peak of Janibyaiig \\.lien seen froni Charok-
donkhang, presenting only a tip from Khanclo-sanglam chhu on t he
east, exhibiting two large black spots on its eastern shoulder when
seen from Chiu Gompa or the shores of t he 1,ake Manasarovar, with
a huge dome-like glacier at its eastern base, with t he line-drawing
of a big sitting swan on the southern face, with t he horizontal
coiiglomerate st rat a of Neten-yelak-zung mountain squattiiig a t its
southern foot like Shiva' s bull when seen from Silung Gompa, with
a sharp conical form jetting iiito t he pitch blue sky vvheii seen while
approaching i t from Tirthapuri on the south-west or from the t op
of Nyaiiri Gompa, like the inverted crescent a little further on,
loaf-like with Saturliian rings on the west, with a collosal Egyptian
pyramidal form towering on tlie north-west, and with the artistic
form seen froni half a inile before reaching Dira-phuk Gompa, one
and all, exhibits, a variety of show. As a matter of fact every. side
of Kailas has a peculiar grace, charm, attraction, and beauty of its
own. There is something indescribably fascinating in going round the
Peak of Kailas, ,each hour presenting a fresh scene and each turn
revealing new glippses and beauties of iiiouiitaiil grandeur.
The actual circumference of Manasarovar is about 64 miles a t the
niost and tiever 200 or 80 miles as the Japanese Buddhist iliotik Ekai
Kawaguclli (who travelled in Tibet for three years) and some other
casual visitors, who themselves never uiidertook the circuit of the
Lake, would ask us t o believe. Of tlie 24 circumambulations of the
Holy Manas, which the author had undertaken, he did some in four
days, son~e in three days, aiid one in two days. Skull-like, the Lake
is n.ucli broader in the north than i!~ the south. The east, south,
west, and north coasts of the 1,ake are roughly 16, 10, 13, and I 5 miles
ill length respectively aild i t is 14 t o 15; ii~iles across. The +arikra?na
of hIat~asarovar, visiting all the eight nio~lasteries, is about 64 miles.
Tibetalls (lo the +arr'Izrajrln (Izora) of the Holy Lake in winter when
the whole Lake and all the rivers and streams flowiiig into it are
frozen, so t hat they might go throughout along the shores ; or in
early winter or spring when most of the smaller streams are dry and
the bigger contain less water so as t o be easily fordable. I n the summer
and rainy seasons, one cannot go along the shores throughout. On
the northern side one shall have t o leave the shores and go higher up.
Moreover, all the streams and rivers flowing into the Lake will be in
high floods in summer due to melting snows and would be flowing very
furiously, which oftentimes become unfordable after midday. On
such occasions one has t o stop for the night and wait till the next
morning for low-tide. Moreover, at the time when Indian pilgrims
visit Kailas and the Manas, the shores of the Lake are much frequented
by nomad robber-tribes going up and down. Those who want to go
round the Holy Lake in summer or rainy season, should do so in
parties guarded by armed men and they should take good ponies or
yaks to cross the rapid rivers.
The eight monasteries round Maliasarovar are : (1) Gossul Gompa
( west ) , ( 2 ) Chiu Gompa (north-west) , ( 3 ) Cherkip Gompa (north),
( 4 ) Lang-pona Gompa ( north), ( 5 ) Ponri Gompa ( north), ( 6 ) Serlung
Gompa (east ) , ( 7 ) Yerngo Gompa (south), and ( 8 ) Thugolho Gompa
or Thokar (south). There are four lings or chhortens (memorials of
sonie great lamas ) and four chhak-chhal-gangs ( wherefrom sashtanga-
danda-pranamam or prostration-salute is made) round Manasarovar.
The four chhortens are a t Chiu Gompa, Langpona Gompa, Seralung
Gompa, and Thugolho Gompa. The four chhak-chhal-gangs are at
Momo-dungu (south-west) , Sera la (west), Havaseni-madang (east),
and Riljung (south-east).
NEW LIGHT ON THE SOURCES O8 THE &' OUR dXkAT RIVERS
OF THE HOLY KAILAS AND MANASAROVAR
The Tibetan Kailas Purana says t hat the Ganga had a t first des-
cended from Kailas t o the spring Chhumik-thungtol ; t hat four rivers
emerged out of this spring in copper pipes through the Lake Manas ;
t hat ( 1) the Ganga came out of the elephant-mouth (Langchen Khatn-
babl, the Elephant-mouthed river, or the Sutlej) near the Dulchu
Gompa on the west and went t o Chhemo Ganga in ~ ~ a ~ a i (Indi a);
that ( 21 the Sindu went riortliwards in the beginning and came out
of the peacock-mouth (Mapcha Khambab, the Peacock-mouthed river,
or the Karnali) at Mapcha Chungo on the south in Lankapuring and
proceeded westwards to Sindu-yul ; t hat ( 3) the Pakshu or Vakshu
went westwards in the beginning and thence came out of the horse-
mouth (Tamchok Khambab, Horse-mouthed river, or the ~rahmaput ra)
THE FOUR GREAT RIVERS
-
River coming out
Langchen I Sutlej or Elephant-mouthed
I of the mouth of Ganga
I Khambab I , Shatadru
I I
river on the South
1 an el e~hant
I
- --- - - - I__- -- - -- -
- - Yapcha
River coming out /Karnali (one of
South
1 Bull-mouthed river
of the mouth of I Sindu theheadstreams
ILhambab a peacock
/ on the north
_ - _ -1 - I
I of the Saraju)
-
I
I
.
I
-
No. 1 Tibetan Name English Translation
I I
On which
sidi of the
Manas it
flows
Indian name 1
according to [Present Indian
Rang,,i Name
Name and direction
according to' Buddha-
ghosha
I
I Knrchhak '
River coming out 1
Pakshu or
3 1 $:' % of the mouth of vaishu 1 Brahmaputra
I a horse I I
Horse-mouthed river
East 1
on the west
- - - -
I - -
River corning out 1
Senge
I Sita
I Indus or
-. .-
/----
Lion-mouthed river
4
1 Khambab I
of the mouth of ,
I Sindhu
a lion I I
.North
on the east
IG K A I L A S - M A N ~ ~ S A H O V A R
from a mountain in Chenia-yungdung on the east, went to Chang
( Tashi-Lhunpo) and thence t o Kamarupa in India, where it is called
Lohita ; and t hat ( 4 ) t he Sita went southwards in the beginning and
thence came out of t he lion-mouth (Senge Khambab, Lion-n~outhedriver,
or t he Indus) from a mountain called Senge, situated on the north of
Kailas and went t o Baltichen and Changhor ; t hat the water in the
Sutlej is cool, the water in the Karnali warm, the water of the Brahma-
putra cold, and tht water of the Indus hot ; t hat there are sands of
gold in the Sutlej, sancls of silver in the Karnali, sands of cat's-eye
in the Brahmaputra, and sands of diamond in t he Indus ; and that
those who drink the water of the Sutlej would become strong like
elephants, those who drink the water of t he Karnali would become
beautiful like a peacock, those who drink the water of the Brahmaputra
would become sturdy like a horse, and those who drink the water of the
Indus would become heroic like a lion. It is also said t hat these four
rivers circle seven times round Kailas and Manasarovar and then take
their courses towards west, south, east, and north respectively.
According t o the Tibetall traditions ancl scriptures, the source of the
Sutlej is in the springs near Dulchu or Dunchu Compa, about 30 miles
west of Manasarovar or in the Rakshas Tal, for all practical purposes
from a layman's point of view. The genetic source is in the Kanglung
glaciers, about 30 miles east of Manasarovar. The source of the Indus
is in the springs of Senge Khatnbab, north-east of Kailas, about 62
miles from Manasarovar ; the source of the Brahmaputra is in the
Chema-yungdung glaciers, about 63 miles south-east of Manasarovar ;
ancl the source of the Karnali is in the spring of Mapcha Chungo, about
30 miles south-east of Manasarovar and the genetic source is in the
1,ampiya pass. The sotlrces of these four rivers are within a distance
of about 45 miles ( as the crow flies) froni the shores of the Holy Lake.
So the description of the Tibetan scriptures t hat these four rivers take
their sources from Kailas ancl Manasarovar is not far from the truth,
also because the author of the Kangvi Kavchhak r u s t certainly have
taken Kaitas ancl blaiiasarovar including the area surrou~lding them
extending up t o the sources of these rivers as ' Kailas-Ma~~asarovar
Region '.
I t may be noted t hat the combinecl river of Kali, coming from the
Lipu Lekh pass and the Saraju coming from the Nandakot is called
Sarada from Tanakpur downwards. The Karnali coming from the
blapcha Chungo, after its mountainous course in Mailasa Khanda and
Nepal, is called Chgra ((;hagra), which receives the Sarada at
1
Tho F ~ l i uchol ~r. Rr~~lrlhnghonh:~. rnakrn t.he Anotnttn, nit,~lnt,~tl in t.hr e n r l o n u ~ of
li~lnnnktrlrc n.nrl ot,hcr Hirnnla-an pr nk~ with t,ht~no four river8 flowing oirt of it-Simhn-
rnukha (t,llr Lion or east. f;lrcb). Hn.tt,hi-rn~~khn. (t.hr Elephant, or ~or~t , l i f n , ~ ) , Asna.rnllkhfi~
(the Horw 01. WP R ~ , F:I.CP). : I I I ~ I t.lln T'.rn.l)l~~r-n~r~khn (t,hr: Rltll or nort,li fnrmr).
PRI NTED AT TnE SUHVEY I,F I YDI A Oi t II t s IP L o I
R A K S H A S T A L 17
Chouka-ghat.
From Chouka-ghat till i t falls into the Ganges, down
Chapra, the coinbilled river is known by both the names of Gogra and
Saraju. Mention of this fact is made here because some people
believe t hat the river Sarajul takes its rise from Manasarovar.
RAKSHAS TAL
At a distance of 2 t o 5 miles t o the west of Manasarovar is the ,Rak-
shas Tal, also known as Ravana Hrada, Rakshas Sarovar, or Ravana
Sarovar where Ravana of Lanka-fame was said t o have done penance
to propitiate Lord Shiva, the third of the Hindu Trinity and the
dweller of Kailas. It is called Langak Tso in Tibetan. La means
mountain, nga means five, and tso lake; so Langak Tso means, a lake in
which there are five mountains or in which five mountains are drowned.
After several years of effort the author could procure transport
in 1942, for doing the round of Rakshas Tal. He did a full round of
the Tal ( 13th t o 16 th October) by closely following the highly irregular
coast. For want of a guide and due t o the unfavourable weather-
conditions, he had t o do the round in great hurry. Tempestuous
winds were blowing and the path was full of sharp stones ; night tem-
perature used t o be 16" F. below freezing point ; and sometimes he had
to jump over huge boulders siiice there mas no regular path along the
shore at several places ; but the changing scenery is most thrilling and
roinantically beautiful. As a matter of fact, each hour reveals a
fresh scene and each belid presents new glimpses of the inountain-
grandeur and a variety of show t hat one is bewildered and becomes
dumb-struck. Early in the morning the lake was so rough aiid raging
with high roaring waves t hat the whole surface was white with foam ;
after a few minutes he was walking inside a gulf tlie sides of which fall
sheer and the water in i t was emqald-green and so perfectly still t hat
the tiniest pebbles in its bed and the swimming fish could be clearly
seen and snapped ; and perfect stilliless reigned supreme.
In one corner one would conle across iiinilmerable brahininy ducks
warbling iu boggy :ands ; and in another scores of kij~angs would be seen
fearlessly grazing in grassy plains. Froin one promontory the Man-
dhata massif could be seen on the south wit11 its giant heads piercing
into the azlire, as if watching the raging waves in-the lake; and at an-
other place tlie water in a bay was froze11 and the Holy Kailas with all
its majesty and subliine serenity was reflecting in it, as if in a fnirror.
At one place a long narrow embankment jets far into the lake as if
going to meet the other shore ; aiid at another point the peninsulas
are so peculiarly formed t hat they had so confoundkd even Dr. Sven
1 Since it is ron.;itlon~,l t,o taka iLs source from tho Sarna or ilin~tnan-A'arcts,
it is callrrl
S ~ I . I I ~ I I or, Sitr.tj11.
18 K A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
Hedin t hat he saw three islands in t he lake, whereas there are only
two in reality. From one peninsula, t he island in the lake appears to
be so near and imposing t hat one is tempted t o jump over it. The
author had t o undergo great hardships in doing this trip but the
pleasure he derived from i t and t he materials he could collect were
more t han compensatory.
The Sutlej flows out of the north-west corner of Rakshas Tal, where
the river was so deep t hat he could not cross i t on ~ c t o b e r 15, 1942 ;
and he had t o go a mile down t o cross it, where it was much shallower.
I n 1935 also, he had noted t he flow of water in the Sutlej from
Rakshas Tal up t o Lejandak. Just near t he place wherefrom the Sutlej
starts in t he bogs in its left bank, there are several small springs welliiig
out, whose water flows into the Rakshas. So, some people are under
t he wrong impression t hat t he water in t he Rakshas does not flow out
through the Sutlej. But he has received definite information from
local shepherds who camp in the bogs here t hat sometimes the lower
courseof the Sutlej (after a mile from t he Tal) is blocked up, but water
from the Tal flows out through subterranean passages and reappears
a t Loma-goma , a few miles further down. Beginning from Rakshas
Tal, right up t o Guru-gem Gompa, there are boggy lands on both sides
of the river, excepting at a few places where the river flows between
two narrow rocks.
The circumference of Rakshas Tal is about 77 miles ; its east, south,
west, and north coasts are roughly 18, 22, 284, and 84 miles in length
respectively ; and i t is about 17 miles north t o south and 13 miles east
t o west at the maximum points. About 24 miles away from the shore,
situated on the north-wester11 corner is Chepgey Gompa. It is the
only monastery of Rakshas Tal and is .a branch of Mashang Gompa.
Henry Strachey mentions t he g0mp.a 'Chebgia GunPbB ', but Dr. Svell
Hedin makes no mention of i t or marks i t in his map. About
3 miles from the island Topserma, situated just on the western shore
of the Tal, is the only house of the goba of Shuugba or Jungba. The
place is called Dehring. See Map No. 4.
.
GANGA CHHU
There goes a story in Tibetan scriptures about the Rakshas Tal
and the Canga Chhu, the outlet of Manas into the Rakshas.
Kakshas
Tal was originally the abode of denions ; as such nobody drank water
out of it. Two gnlclen fishes t hat were in the Manas fought against
each other and one pursued the other into Rakshas Tal. The course
which the golden fishes took then is the-present course of the C;allga
Chhu. LYhen the holy waters of the Manas flowed out of it, through the
course of the golden fishes into Kakshas Tal, i t became sanctified. From
that time onwards pecq,le hegaii t o tlrink the water of I<aks]~as 'I'd.
I S L A N D S I N R A K S R A S ' T' AL 19
The author made 24 rounds of the Holy Manasarovar and found
Ganga Chhu t o be the oiily outlet through which the excess water in
the Matias flows out into the Rakshas. This outlet is 40 t o 100 feet
in breadth, six miles long in its winding course and 2 t o 4 feet in depth,
generally during rainy season. The author had crossed the Ganga
Chhu 44 times. Manasarovar and Rakshas Tal might have been one
coiitinuous lake once and the range of hills now separating t he two
lakes might be due t o a subsequent upheaval, the Ganga Chhu form-
ing the outlet of Manas into the Rakshas. So the statement and belief
of several people who had never made even one full circuit of Mana-
sarovar, t hat the Brahmaputra and t he Indus take their rise on its
eastern and liorthern banks respectively, are absolutely groundless and
erroneous like the statements t hat the Iildus has its source a t the
northern or southern foot of Kailas Peak and flows on its western or
souther11 side, and t hat the Sutlej takes its rise in Gouri-kund and flows
on the eastern side of Kailas.
ISLANDS IN RAKSHAS 'L'AL
Tliere are two islands in Raksllas Tal, one Lachato and the other
P \
lopserma ( or Dopsernla). The author had visited these islands on
April 15 and 16, 1937, when the lake was completely frozen. He went
over the frozen lake from east t o west and from south t o north on a
yak. LACHATO is a rocky island having the appearance of a tortoise
with the neck stretched out towards a p e n i n s u l a s the souther11
shore. The distance between the neck of the islalid aiid the cape of
the peninsula is about half a mile. The circumference of the islalid
is nearlqone mile. The island is rocky and hilly and not a t all boggy.
On the top of the, kill is a laptche, a heap of white stones, with mani-
slabs. On the 1;estern and easterti sides of tlie hill there are walled
enclosures of egg-gatherers. There were several swans on the gravel-
plateau of the north-eastern part of the island. The egg-gatherers
of the goba (head-man) of tlie village Kardul ~g n7ere expected tliere in
the last week of ~ ~ k i l , w11e11 the swans begin to lay eggs.
Two accideiits t hat had occurred in Iinkslias Tal several
Years ago l yr e narrated t o the author by at1 old Tibetan.
Once,
when two egg-gatherers were 011 the T,acliato, Rakshas Tal broke in
the night all of a sudden and they were stranded on the island. They
had to live on what little provisions they had at t hat time, on the meat
of the few hares t hat were on the island, and on the eggs of snralls ;
they remained on the island till the lake froze in the next winter t o
reach the mainland. Rut they were very much elnaciateci for want of
sufficient food and one of them succu~nhed t o deatli a few days after ; btit
nobody had the idea of making a small skin boat or a raft t o bring the
strandedmel~ t o the tnainlancl. On another occasioil (about the ycar
20 K A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
1906)) in early spring, when a fully loaded yak was crossiiig the lake,
the ice under its feet gave way and it sank down under its own weight.
TOPSERMA, the second island, is completely rocky and hilly like the
Lachato but is much bigger. I t s southern part is named TONAIL The
island is about a mile from east t o west and about three-fourths of a
mile from north t o south. On the eastern projection of the hill there is
a pztcca-walled house in ruins, in which a Khampa Lama was said to
have lived for seven years some time ago. He used to come out of
the island to the shores in winter after the freezing of the lake to take
provisions. The author had picked up a small clay-made image of
Chenresig (Avalokiteshvara) from the ruins, as a memento of his visit
t o the island ; he is the first non-Tibetan who has ever stood on the
tops of the hills on these two islands in Rakshas Tal. Down below
the projection there are two or three walled enclosures. Topserma
is under the jurisdictioil of the gobn of Shungba. There were no
aquatic birds on this island when the author visited it.
I n the maps of Dr. Sven Hedin and of the Survey of India ofice,
three islands are shown in Rakshas Tal, although the names of ol~ly
two of them are given. Further, this third island and Topserma are
drawn in broken lines. From a close personal observation and in-
formation the author had found ONLY TWO ISLANDS in the RakshasTal.
Secondly, the goba of the Rakshas Tal area got his house constructed
about the year 1930, within three miles from the island Topserma,
which is under* jurisdiction. He too says t hat there are only t wo
islands in the ~ a k s h a s Tal. Thirdly, in August 1938, the author had
procured a water-colour painting of the Kailas-Manasarovar Region
drawn by a monk of the famous Simbiling Monastery of faklakot,
which had, once, Tsepgye (;ompa as its branch 09 the west coast of
Rakshas Tal. The monk, thefefore, had surely an intimate
knowledge of the Rakshas Tal. He has shown only two islands
in the Rakshas Tal in his painting. Lastly, wh$n Sven Hedin went
round the Rakshas Tal he had with him local Tibetan guides, who
doubtless would have given him the name of the third island also,
if it had been there. I t is therefore evident t hat both the maps are
dotlbtful about the existence of the third island and about the correct
position of the Topsernla ; yet they show the third"is1and also-
That Sveii Hedin himself has no definite knowledge about these is-
lands can be seen from the following : " The two islands are easily visible
in the south-western corner of the lake, but one can only seldom make
out that they are real islands and not parts of promotltories. There
may possibly be three of them. The greatest is called I)opserma,
though other Tibetans called ( si c) Dotser. "l
D E S C R I P T I O N O F MA N A S A R O V A R 2 1
DESCRIPTION OF MANASAROVAR
The water of Manasarovar is as sweet as t hat of ally river or of any
$cia1 lake.
The Holy Manas provides fine caves on her shores near
Gossul and Cherlrip (.:ompas for hermits, and fine camping grouiids
and good sites here and there for Tibetans t o build monasteries and
houses.. It is marshy at certain places and rocky or sandy at others.
One comes across boulders as smooth and round as pebbles and also
slabs as finely cut and shaped as slates. It is warin on the Gossul side
and very cold on other sides. I n spite of the existence of hot springs
the Chiu hillside is very cold. From one monastery the Manas pre-
sents a fine view of her northern neighbour, the Kailas, and from ano-
ther she completely keeps it out of sight, while froni a third monastery
the Rakshas Tal is presented beautifully. There are some lakelets
and lagoons scattered all round the Lake, like Yush~zp tso on the south-
west, Tseti tso on the west, Kurkyal-Chhungo, Sham tso, and Ding
tso on the north and north-east. In Tibetan scriptures Kurkyal-
Chhungo is described as the head of Manasarovar, set apart for devatas
or gods to bathe in. I n winter, shepherds flock to her shores and in
summer they move to the upper parts of valleys. Indians hold a
market on one side and the Nepalese on the other. Certain moiias-
teries are owned by Ladakh, others by Bhutan, some by Purang-
Taklakot, and still others are affiliated t o the Universities or inonas-
teries of Eastern Tibet. Several paths from different parts of the world
converge to this holy spot. It would be no exaggeration if this
regioil is styled as the cynosure of the world, for both the Buddhists
and the Hindus consisting of nearly 90 crores of souls, look upon Kailas
and ~Znasarovar as the holiest of regions.
One cannot geilerally escape or get away without noticing a tragic
spectacle here ' Ad there in the Manasarovar Region. It is, for
example, a pathetic sight to see hundreds of fish frozen and crushed in
the swimmiiig posture under the transparent ice (as at the mouth of
the Gyuma chhu) ; or a whole flock or a line of ducks with their young
ones frozen to deaf11 and sandwiched on the surface of the ever-changing
mysterious Lake ; or scores of new-born lambs and kids frozen to death in
a shepherd cailip on a single cold night, for winter is the yeaning season
of sheep i nd goats. Sonletinles groups of ki')angs and wild goats
are frozen to death on all fours, in deep snows.
One peculiarity with the Lake is t hat a t times \vhen there are high
waves near the shores the middle is calm and clear like a mirror
reflecting the silvery clon~e of the Kailas if seen froin the southern side
or the Mandhata's giant heads if seeb from the north-east. On full
moon nights, wit11 the full moon overhead, the scene is simply
indescribal~le. At sunset the whole of the Kailas range on the north
becomes a fiery region all of a sudden, throwing an observer into a
22 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
spell of trance, and by the time he returns t o coiisciousiiess he sees
only the silvery Peak in his front. On another occasion, at the time
of sunset, the whole of the Mandhata catches fire and terrible flames
with rolling columns of smoke rise in the west, only t o be buried very
soon into the depths of abysmal darkness; the scene is simply
bewitching. Sometimes the morning suh gilds the Kailas aiid Mandhata
Peaks or pours forth molten gold on the Holy Lake ; still at other times
the last lingering rays of the setting' sun gild the snow ranges, the
sight of which is very pleasing and soothing, both t o the eyes and the
mind. On another occasion the whole of the Kailas-Manas Region is
completely covered with a thick blanket of snow from head to foot,
making i t impossible t o point out which is which ; one cannot tell a
house from a tent, or the Lake from t he land ; one cannot distiiiguish
the ground from the pit, or the mound from the bush. A moonlit
night with a clear sky beggars description and oiie becomes simply
spellbound. Perhaps moonlight is brightest on the Tibetan plateau.
Now you have scorching sun ; the next moment hail and snow begins
t o fall copiously ; and shortly after, having a nap aiid coming out of
your room, you will see a clear blue sky and bright sun above and a
bed of pearl-like hail and white snow on the ground. Hence the
oft-quoted Hindi couplet :
" Who can approach Manasarovar where snow falls without clouds ? "
Such phenomena form sufficient material for the ecstatic outbursts of
a poet.
Thus the Kailas-Manas Region engages the attention of ally person
of any calling or profession-whether he be a poeta Or a painter, a
physicist or a chemist, a botanist or a zoologist, a geologist or a
climatologist, a geographer or a historian, a hunter or a sportsman,
a skater or a skier, a physiologist or a psychologist; all ethliologist or
a sociologist, a pilgrim or a tourist, a herinit 01 a householder, a
clergyman or a tradesman, a treasure-hunter or a spirit-hunter, a theist
or an atheist, a scholar or a politiciaii, young or old, nlan or woman.
8
LOTUS .4ND ROYAT, SWAN
The author has often been asked about the existence of goldell
lotuses, pearls, and the traditional Rajnhansas or Royal Swans in
Manasarovar, and about the Mahat~rtas aiid Tibetan nlystics round
Kailas and Manasarovar. In this connection i t lnay be said without
any fear of contradiction that the first two are totally ~n~t hol ogi cal ;
but if some one wants to console himself by saying t hat they tnight have
once existed millions of years back, there is no dispute with them.
LOTUS A N D R OY A L S WA N 2 3
~t will llot he out of place here t o mention t hat since 1940, t he
author has been making experiments t o grow lotus, lily, water-chest-
nut (si nghara fm), and makhana (qwm) in Manasarovar
Lakes. Experiments with seeds have not been very successful so far ;
so he,proposes trying now with bulbs brought from Kashmir. It is
yet t o be seen how far it would be a success. The author would be
thankful if anyone interested in the subject could give some useful
suggest ions.
In conilection with swans i t may be noted t hat there are three
varieties of aquatic birds in Manas Region. The first is called ngangba
(=.a) in Tibetan, which t o the mind of the author, corresponds
to the traditional slvan. He had examined three male and two female
cygnets, five months old, captured in 1945. I t s bill is yellow with a
black knob at the t i p of it and the legs orange. There are two black
horizoiltal bars on the head, the first being thicker extending froni
eye t o eye. The back of the neck, lower part of the wings, aiid the
tip of the bill are black. The upper part of the body is grey or light-ash
in colour and the lower parts and the face are white. The female bird
is whiter than the male. It comes t o India in October and November
and stays up t o March and April, but breeds in Tibet and Central
Asia. It goes up t o Chilka lake on the east and on t he west up t o
Malwa and Surat ; very rarely i t is seen going up t o Mysore. It is
about 30 inches in length and is called savan ( m ~ ) in the United
Provinces. This is the bar-headed goose of Jerdon. The great poet
Kalidasa must have seen some stray Siberian mute swan or the whoo-
per swan in Kashmir and combined its description with t hat of the
Tibetan ?qangba and gave a beautiful poetic description of the Royal
Swans or Raj a f l ansas in his celebrated Kaz y a, the Meghadzrta, as
hailing from the Manasa-saras. Having knmwn this convention of the
modern ornithologist and the Indian ornithologists and poets there
should 1)e no objection in calling the Manas-ngangba, the swan.
The second variety of bird, called ngarzt-sevchung ( s ~TFF. ) is
deep or almond-brown in complexion. I t s hcad and belly are light-
brown and white, and the lower part of the wings, tail, legs, and bill
are hlack. .,l' his also lnigrates t o India but a few of them stay away
in Manas Region near hot sprillgs or sollie other warmer regions.
This is the 1)rahnliny duck. The third variety is chaFzarma and is
deep grey or like a pigeon in colour. I t s head and wings are light grey,
neck and belly white, t i p of the tail and bill black, and legs and bill
pink.
The hill is thin like t hat of a pigeon. By the side of the eyes
there are black spots presenting the appearance of another set of eyes.
This fecds freely on fish.
It is the gull ( ftfae ). Heron or the
1,lark-l~ecked crane ( m ) also is seen in pairs near Ding tso,
Kutkyaj-~hhtingo, so-called ' old bed of the Sutlej ', and other places.
24 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
There is a black variety of swan ill Australia. Swans had been
known t o attain their second centenary even in captivity. In the
beginning of January 1947 a whooper swan was shot near Chilka lake
and a mute swan in Baluchistan in December 1946. Since the mute
swan, the whooper, t he bar-headed goose, t he goose, and the wild
goose, all belong t o t he same family, i t is only a question of taste as
t o how t o name them, but there is no question as t o which is right or
which is wrong. For cxample, tlle Tibetan kiy~zng is called a wild ass
by the Zoologist, whereas Tibetans maintain it t o be a wild horse.
I n fact it has got the physical features of both and looks niore like a
mule t han anything else. Why should a partict~lar rodent be calied
a guinea-pig when it is not a pig ir. f act ? Why should a particular
duck be called brahminy duck ? A non-brahmin may as well take ob-
jection t o it and an over-enthusiastic minister may get the prefix
removed forthwith Though t he whooper is considered t o be a swan,
still many maintain it t o be orily a Bombay duck. There is no doubt
t hat in ancient days there were in India expert ornithologists' who
studied avifauna a good deal, long before t he modern scientists coined
t he word ornjthology, for we have several references t o Vaj~asa-
vidyika or Vayo-lfidyikn ( m-fqfm or mdt-fid?~~ ) in Shatapntha
Brahmana XI I I . 4. 3. 13, Patanjali IV. 2. 60, and other works.
Tibetans assert the ngangba t o be a pure vegetarian t hat lives merely
on moss, grass, ancl water-reeds. It does not touch fish, oysters,
or snails. Th i s is considered holy by the Tibetan who does not kill
i t even for his table although he is not as scrupulous about the eg s,
%
which are freely consumed.
This species of the bird exists on t e
smaller islet Lachato in the Rakshas Tal more abundantly' than in
the Manas, probably the reason being t hat escept for a short period
in winter, neither men orpol ves car. reach and lay t'heir hands on them
or their eggs. These swans daily go t o the so-called ' old bed of the
Sutlej ' in winter t o eat grass and moss. The servants of Kardullg
goba go t o the island in the first week of April for collecting eggs.
-They go there atid return within two weeks, for after t hat time the is-
land is cut off from the mainland by flle breaking of ice near the shores.
It is said t hat two to four thousand eggs are collected in those two weeks.
These eggs are three times the size of normal hen's eggs. Swans are found
in large numbers in the Manas near Thugolho, Yushup tso, Gossul,
Tseti tso, Chiu (;ompa, CJanga Chhu, Kurkyal-Chhungo, Ding tso and
at the mouths of the Samo ancl Tag. The bogs near the lakelets all
around the Manas and the Rakshas, 1,oma-goma, Dulchu, ~~a r l i i n a - r a f ~
Chhakra, and other places, are the favourite habitat of ngangba and the
ngarfc. These swails lay their eggs under small sand-hills. In late
I Dr. V. 8. A~rnwal t r, ' ,\no iawt, InrIinll Orni t, I~nIo~i . i t, <, ' .Tollrn%l r , f t ho Tntlinn M ~ l ~ e l l m ~ ' ~
Ihaem her 19 $5.
81, Bio Holiness S h 1108 Dr. Swami Jnananandeji Meharaj,
the Author's Qm-Dgva
[ Bm 8 4 fBb
MA H A T MA S A N D T I B E T A N MY S T I C S 25
spring one can see these birds breasting the waves in pairs, keeping a
number of young ones in their midst and the chicks could be counted
up to ten. They swim in the water producing diverging ripples in thg
calm Lake.
MAHATMAS AND TIBETAN MYSTICS
Several sensatioilal articles are freely published both in the East
and the West about t he Mahat mas and Siddhasl in this little seen and
less studied part of t he world, namely Tibet. Most of the stories
gaining currency here are mere exaggerations or niisrepresentations
and are more of the nature of journalistic stunts t han anything else.
I t may however be mentioned here t hat the author had visited
about 50 inoilasteries (i.e. almost all the nlonasteries of Western
Tibet and most of them in Ladakh) and met not less t han 1,500 monks,
both lamas and dabas ; but he did not come across any great siddha
or a yogi , worth mentioning in the whole of Western Tibet. There
are no doubt several lamas who are learned in their scriptures and well-
versed in the external fantrik rites and incantation-performances,
which are elaborately conducted for days together. People in general
are very superstitious, religious-miilded, devotional, and nlystic in tem-
perament. The author did not meet any really spiritually advanced
lama or yogi nor any monk 90 to 100 years old, though some people
claim t o have seen sages like Vyasa and Asvatthama and other monks
and Christian saints thousands of years old with corporeal bodies.
Personally he would neither accept such credulous statements nor
would fwce others t o disbelieve them but would prefer t o leave the
matter t o individual judgment and discrimination.
This is not t o ray, however, t hat really great mahatgnns or saints and
yogis do not exist ; nor t he above stateinent be misconstrued
to mean t hat the author is sceptical about the reality of the exist-
ence of these advanced sotils, as he considers his own Revered Master
Dr. Swanli Jnanananda t o he one such adept, who has bee11 spending his
time in maintaining equanimity of mind in order t o be in constant
coinniunion with the Divine look in static and dynamic forms. I n
calnlness and serenity he dives deep into the DivineSilence of Existence
and in his activity, his actions are directed t o be in touch with the
Divine ill nlanifestatiou and the Law and its harinony t hat governs such
a manifestntio~l. He had conducted exl~erirnental research2 for their
011o \\,1to ltan 11t~t11,inotl Iligh prryc-hir tint1 rrt~por~~i l t~~~rnl po~rc-rrr.
2
I)r. Sn: ~l ni .Ina.nnn~l.ntl~r, I).Sr. (I'rugnr), 1'h.D. (Livrrpool), I~. T~i nt~. l ' . (London). hlornber
Signln. Xi ( 1' . S. A. ), M. I I . A. A. S. , M.hI . P. S. . P.R S.S., ' New a.ntl I'rcrisr Mntltods in t . 11~
spor.t,r,l~cn~,,v of X- R~di t ~t i onn ', ' Thick M:~gnetin Electron Lonn Rot& 1tn.y S1,ectrromcter, i ts
' r h ~ ~ ~ r y . (!~bn.+t~r~~rt.inn, 111111 n.pplic-nt,ion ', ' R.n.dio-nctivc Tnot,ol,o of (:old 7!)An198 a.nd l o w
Energv li. ~ngc! of it,* Sprv~1~1.111n ', ' 13-1t:idintions of Antirnonyl24, 'L'nnt,:~lti~nI 82, T1111gstcnl AT,,
Iritli111'11l!l2,' :tntl I T r i ~ n i ~ ~ ~ n XI ', nntl ' Highrr \ ' n r ~ ~ s ', rtc.
2 6 K A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
verification for wellnigh 15 years onthe Continent in the Physical Labo-
ratories at Dresden, Berlin, Prague, Liverpool, Ann Arbor (Michigan),
and other places and was conferred Doctorate by two Universities,
and he is now taking active part as the Senior Scientific Officer,
National Physics Laboratory, Delhi. The simple fact remains
t hat really spiritually advanced yogis or lamas are as rare a pheno-
menon here as anywhere else.
The author was, however, informed by the Governor of Purang-Takla-
kot, of monks being immured for some years and in a few cases for life,
in Eastern Tibet. But this practice is in the nature of mortification
or a miracle rather than a symbol of high spiritual attainment.
During his several visits t o Tibet he had the good fortune of coming
across a lama from Lhasa (aged about 50) in the year 1936 and of
having the rare privilege of attending some tantrih rites (which non-
Tibetans are not allowed t o attend) he conducted in the Simbiling
Monastery of Taklakot continuously for three days. He was a good
sndhaka and a tqntrik. The author had also met a young tulku-lama
(incarnation monk) aged 16, in Ponri Gompal in the year 1928, whom
he felt t o be an elevated soul. I n the Simbiling Gompa of Taklakot
there is an incarnation-lama, popularly known as Nav Kushok. He
is aged about 48 (born in A. D. 1900). He is a highly learned monk,
a good painter, and a great sadhaka. Pilgrims would do well to pay
a visit to him. It is really regrettable to find some people fabricating
curious and funny stories which are utterly false to trade upon the
credulity of the innocent and religious-minded folk. There is no doubt
however t hat the surroundings of the Holy Kailas and Manasarovar
are highly charged with spiritual vibrations of the supreme order,
which make one exhilarated and elevated.
C H A P T E R 11
FREEZING OF MANASAHOVAR
TEMPERATURE READINGS
WHEN the author had sojourned on the shores of Manasarovar in
1936-37, winter had already begun to make itself felt from the middle
of September. From October 1, onward up to May 14, 1937, the
minimum temperature persistently remained below the freezing
point. The maximum temperature during t hat year &as 67F on
July 19, in the verandah of the room and the minimum was -18.5"F.
On February 18, i t was so cold t hat the sputum of a person standing
in the balcony would reach the ground as solid ice. The lowest maximum
temperature was 2F on February 16. The maximuin temperature
remained below the freezing point for nearly 3Q months ; and on
several occasions even at 12 in the noon the temperature would be
10F. Of course the winter of 1936-37 was unusually severe in the
Kailas-Manasarovar Region. During the winter of 1943-44, the
minimum temperature was - 18F (December- January).
EARLY PREMONITIONS
Occasional si~owfalls began from the second week of September,
but never more than 1; feet on the shores of Manasarovar,
although there were several feet of heavy snowfall round Kailas. Tem-
pestuous winds began to howl in an ever-increasing manner from the
first of ,November. From the middle of December, water near the
edges of the Lake began to freeze to a width of about two feet. From
the 21st water towards the middle of the 1,ake froze here and there
to a thickness of 2 t o 4 inches and sheets of ice about 50 t o 100 yards in
edge were drifting towards the shores. Cyclonic gales from the
Mandhata peaks were giving rise to h~ige oceanic waves in the Lake,
roaring and thundering aloud. Lanias and other Tibetans were
foretelling that the Lake would freeze in her entirety oil the full
moon day of the month of Margasirslza (Uecember-January).
ACTUAL FREEZING 01: THE LAKE
I t was Monday, December 28, 19.76. Somehow that day the author
came out of his meditation room at the utiusual hour of 7 a.m. and looked
arotliid ; He could not say why, it was all like the dead of night,
absolute silence and perfect calmness prevailing. Curious to know as to
what had happened he went to the terrace of the moiiastery and stood
l'llr n ~ ~ t ~ l ~ o r l~nrl IOSI nll I I ~ N oay)lnrnt,ory rlinrirn from 1937-46 tll~ring tho CnlruLtn riots.
So ha c.ol1L1 not glvr FIIII rlrst.nils of hin ~oj or ~r n on t.hv hlnnnn r111ring 19431-44.
2 8 K A I L A S - M A N A S A K O V A R
up, ancl in an instant felt a thrill aiid lost all physical coilsciousness
for some time-how long he could not exactly tell. As he regained
consciousi~ess, he was stunned by the sight of the Holy Kailas
on the north-west, piercing illto the pitch blue sky and dyed in
amber robes of the early morning sun (which had not yet
reached other places) and overlooking the Holy Lake in all majesty
and dignity, bewitching even the inanimate creation. Not even a
single sheep or lamb in the sheep-yard bleated. While he was musing
over the splendour and over-powering beauty of the Holy Mount,
i t rapidly changed several robes of various colours and hues and
ultimately decided upon the usual perpetual silver garment, which was
reflecting in the clear and calm blue mirror of the mid-lake. Dazzled
at the sight, he lowered his eyes towards the Lake that was just in
front of him. The very first sight of the Holy Lake made him forget
himself and even the Lake herself for some time, and by the time he
could see the Lake again, the sun was sufficiently high on the eastern
horizon. For over a mile from the shores, the waters in the Lake were
frozen into milk-white ice all around. It was an unforgettable and
memorable sight-the middle of the Lake picturesquely with its un-
frozen deep blue waters quite calm and serene, reflecting the Kailas
and the snowy cap of the Ponri peak and the resplendent rays of the
morning sun. Oh ! How happy he was ! He utterly fails to describe the
bliss he enjoyed and the mystic charm of the enchanting Lake. 'fears
of joy trickled down the cheeks, only t o be frozen on the parapet.
There was pin-drop silence everywhere. Like the eternal silence of
Nirvana there was perfect stillness all around. What creature could
there be on the face of earth which would not feel and become one
with that sublime serenity of silence of the Almighty? He leaned
against the parapet of the terrace ~ n d stood dumb-struck by the most
enrapturing splendour and lustre of the sublime serenity of the spiri-
tual aura of the two holiest places on the face of the earth. How
fortunate he felt himself to be under such a woriderful spell ! Then he
was lost within himself. At about 10 a.m. he was ioused by the hailing
shouts of the villagers. The whole village was on the house-topsl
lloisting coloured flags, burning incense and hailing the, gods aloud
SO ! So ! ! So !!! Lung-ta-ro ! 1,ung-ta-ro !! Lung-ta ro !!! There had
descended a thorough change in the whole atmosphere (both physical
and mental and spiritual) aiid he felt as if he was in an altogether new
world. By December 30, i.e. in full three days, the entire Lake was
frozen like the mythological ocean of curds.' But curiously ellough
Sven Hedin in his ' Trans-Himalaya ' reports that the whole of Maria-
sarovar freezes over in an hour ! a
111 1!)Jt tl ~c- I,~kcr wnn f r w~c n 1,c-twc.c.n Jnnr~ary I)-12 (f'auJllr~ Sltt~klu C' hol v~~dnsi ).
2 (1910) VoI, 11, 11. 181).
1:ISSURES ANL, SOUNDS I N 'I'HK LAKE
&'roil1 January 1, occasioilal sounds aiid rtinibliiigs begail t o be
heard no~v and then and fro111 the 7th they became more disturbing
and terrible for about a month, as if the Lake was reluctant and resis-
ting to put on the white robe. 'I'hese sotinds subsided t o a great
extent as the severity of winter increased, perhaps indicating her
assent for some time, but were heard again illtensely in early spring
before the breaking of the Lake. About a month after the Lake and
her feeders froze (excepting a t t he mouths of the Ding tso and the Tag,
and near Chiu Gompa), the author had recorded t hat t he level of
the water in the Lake fell down by over 12 inches below the ice,
which coilsequently, under its own weight, cracked with tremendous
sounds and fissures were formed. The level of t he water in the Lake
must have fallen down still further, later on in winter, which he could
not note and record. These fissures or cliasms which are 3 t o 6 feet
broad, partition the elitire Lake, so t o speak, into a number of divi-
sions or compartinents. \Vithin a day the water in the fissures freezes
again and breaks, with the result t hat slabs and blocks of ice pile up
to a height of six feet. Sometimes these slabs and blocks pile up
loosely over the chasms and soilletimes they are cemented t o either
side of the fissure. Such kind of fissures and eruptions are also formed
along the shores just near the edges or a few feet inside the Lake ;
and these the author names 'coastal eruptions' in contradistinction t o
the main fissures in the Lake. Later on, when the Lake melts in the
month of May, i t breaks along these fissures. The disturbance beneath
the ice.,due t o hot springs in the bed, may also be the cause of cracks,
sounds, and huge fissures in Manasarovar.
Afraid of the racks and sounds and also on account of the danger
of going down into the Lake du2 t o explosioiis and fissures (called
mayzcr it1 Tibetan) none dares t o go on the frozen Manas even on foot.
In spite of the warnings given by the monks the author went into
the Lake for over a mile in order t o cross i t from Chiu t o Cherkip
Golnpa. All of a sudden he was face t o face with a big fissure-erup-
tion with blocks of ice loosely piled up t o a height of 5 feet. As he
was unprepared for the situation lie had t o cross the fissure at great
risk and with utlnost difficulty. Before reaching Cherkip he had t o
cross one more fissure-eruption and one coastal eruption. At t hat
time he was reminded of the line t hat "The greatest pleasure in life
lies in doing what people say you cannot do" (Bagehot). But if one
is well equipped, one can cross the frozen Lake in the early hours of the
day in ~nidwinter.
LAKES MANAS AND RAKSHAS---A CON'I'RAST
It is Gifferent with the Rakshas Tal. 1,oaded sheep, yaks, aiid poilies
30 R A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
and even men on horseback cross the frozen Rakshas Tal from east to
west and from south t o north. The absence of major fissures and erup-
tions here may be due t o the fact t hat the water t hat percolates out
of it by subterranean paths is being compensated for, by the supply
of water into it from its eastern neighbour, the Manas, through under-
ground waterways. There is no appreciable void created beneath
the ice between it and the water in the Rakshas Tal and hence, perhaps,
there are not many fissures and eruptions in it. There are no doubt
a good many coastal explosions and eruptions and a few minor fissures
here and there. The author actually crossed two small fissures, one
foot broad, while visiting the islarids in the lake on April 15 and 16,
1937. He was, however, told by an old Tibetan t hat rarely once in 8
or 10 years, a good number of fissures make their appearance even on
the frozen Rakshas Tal. Both the Manas and the Rakshas freeze into
pure white opaque ice in the beginning and within a month or so it
becomes transparent greenish blue. The thickness of the frozen ice
ranges from 2 t o 6 feet near the banks, as far as the observations
of the author go.
Unlike Manasarovar, Rakshas Tal freezes 15 to 20 days earlier
and melts again 2 to 4 weeks later. It may be mentioned in passing
t hat this is quite the opposite of what Sven Hedin relates, namely
t hat " Langak-tso breaks up half a month before the Tso-rnavang."'
Rakshas Tal froze about 20 days earlier and broke up again nearly a
month later. There are many major and minor fissures and coastal
en~pt i ons in the frozen Manas, whereas the Rakshas contains only a
few fissures and good many coastal eruptions. Another point of
difference between the two lakes is t hat it takes about a week for the
Rakshas Tal to freeze 'completely and a little more than that time to
melt again completely. Sheets of lice are seen floating and drifting
from side t o side in the Rakshas Tal for several days even after the
breaking of the Lake, so much so t hat the Bhotia merchants goitig early
to Tarchhen Mandi (Kailas) oftentimes notice sheets of ice floating
in Rakshas Tal, but not in the Manas. The autgor had noticed and
Tibetans too affirm that the Rakshas Tal region is much colder than
the Manas area and that there are greater atid more massive deposits
of snow all round the Rakshas. Also, the zebra-like formatiolls of
snow in well-marked stripes in the ups and downs, in the valleys,
especially on the south and west in winter, and in the islalids and
irregular shores with bays, gulfs, promontories, peninsulas, straits,
isthmuses, rocky shores etc. lend an additional element to the
picturesq~zeness of the landscape around the Rakshas. Indeed, Rakshas
Tal would form a good model for learning geographical terms.
1 ' ' l ' r; ~t ~. i - Hi nr~I~yx ', Vol. [I, 11, 140.
L A K E S M A N A S A N D R A K S H A S - A CONTRAS ' I ' 31
The Manas is nearly 300 feet1 in depth, whereas the Rakshas is only
half as deep on the northern side ; on the southern side it may be
deeper but has not been sounded up till now. The Manas has eight
monasteries and some houses on its shores and the Rakshas has only
one monastery, Tsepgye2 on the north-west and the only house of
the goba of Shungba on the west. The area of the Manas is 200 square
miles and that of the Rakshas 140 square miles. The coasts of the
Manas are more regular than those of her western companion.
Rakshas Tal is in no way inferior t o Mailasarovar in physical beauty ;
but from the spiritual point of view the Jblanas is unparalleled. A11
iilteresting observation which is a bit difficult to explain, is the tem-
peramental difference between the two lakes though they are next-door
neighbours to each other possessing areas almost of the same order of
magnitude. Unlike Manasarovar, there are no high mountains on the
southern shore of Rakshas Tal to prevent the winds coming from the
south. I t may be due to this t hat Rakshas Tal is more stormy and
colder than Manasarovar. The comparative shallowness of Rakshas
Tal may also be resporisible for its shores being colder than those of the
Manas and for its freezing earlier and melting later.
Sven Hedin writes, " In winter the surface of the Tso-mavang falls
20 inches beneath the ice, which consequently is cracked and fissured,
and dips from the shore ; but Langak-tso sinks only one or two-thirds
of an inch. This shows t hat it receives water constantly from the east-
ern lake, but only parts with a trifling quantity in winter."" Sven
Hedin was on the lakes during the moilths of July and August but not
when they froze ; and so this whole information about winter must be
hearsay from some of his Tibetan guides or servants, who certainly
gave him wrong iiiformation. When the Rakshas receives water con-
tinuously from the Manas but parts with only a trifling quantity,
what becomes of all the 20 inches of water t hat filters out of
the Manas ? If, as Sven Hedin describes, only a trifling quantity of
water is filtered ovt of the Rakshas, the level of the water in it must
rise. But in the same breath he says that water in the Rakshas
fell down by one or two-thirds of an inch ! Could Sven Hedin expect
such accurrke figures from the ordinary Tibetans who gave the figures
of the levels of water in the Manas with discrepancies of several feet ?
So, contrary to what Sven Hedill writes, the author maintains that
it is not a trifling quantity of water that Rakshas Tal parts with, but
almost as much quantity as it receives from the Manas either by
subterraliean passages or otherwise, through the so-called ' old bed
of the Sutlej .'
'I'ho I I ~ I I Y ~ I ~ I I I I ~ tlt?l)Ilh rorortltwl Ijy l ) r. Svon Hadin in 1907 was 269 feel.
2 z41so ;II,OIIOIIII(Y:(~ ' ( ' I I ( ~I ) ~. , ' : I I ~ '(!hopgyol.
3 ' 'I'rnnp-Hirn~!lnvt~ ', Vol. 11. p. I RO.
32 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
PECULIAR SURFACE PHENOMENA
A series of peculiar phenomena takes place on the frozen Lake of
Manasarovar which i t is ilnpossible t o describe fully. I n one corner
towards the south of t he Naimapendi, t he ice on the Lake cracks, and
innumerable glassy panes of ice 2 t o 4 tenths of an inch in thickness
are hurled out into heaps in a minute as if by magic. From Thugolho
t o Tseti tso, d t ~ e t o coastal explosions huge blocks of ice 20 t o 50 cubic
feet in volume get hurled and cast ashore t o distances ranging up to
60 feet, some of which take nearly a month t o melt away, after the
breaking of the Lake. Due t o coastal explosio~ls blocks of ice 3 to 4
feet thick rise like embankments 10 t o 21 feet broad and 6 to 9 feet
high, continuously for distances of hundreds of yards, only to col-
lapse suddenly like so many packs of cards, on some evening, due to
waves of quakes caused by subterranean disturbances, startling aid
confounding the kora-pilgrims, who might be moving slowly along
t he shores, unmindfully telling their prayers on the beads of the
rosaries. These blocks of ice are irregular in shape from Thugolho
t o Shushup tso and regular up t o Gossul. From Gossul t o Tseti tso
there are piles of perfectly plane slabs 1 t o 2 inches in thickness. From
Tseti tso t o the volcanic rock-projection of Malla-thak there are
irregular heaps of ice mixed with the shore-drifted soft water-reeds.
At the Malla-thak, at the mouth of the Gyuma chhu, and at some
other places water is frozen into crystal-clear transparent greenish-blue
ice, right down t o the bottom, exhibiting the pebbles, sands, and
water-reeds, and the active live fish in the depths of the Lake,
as through the glass cases in an aquarium.
A quart erof a mile beyond the volcanic rock-projection, about 50
yards from the shore, there was an oval patch of wut2r 30 feet in dia-
meter in the frozen Lake, on ~ a n ; a r ~ 28, when the minimum tem-
perature in the verandah of the room was 2"F, and when the entire
Lake was covered with ice 2 t o 6 feet thick. Two scores of brahminy
ducks were merrily swimming and playing in the pool and on the ice
nearby. This makes the author conclusively believe t hat there must
be some hot springs in the bed of the Manasarovar. On the south
of this pool of water two scores of birds were frozen alive and sand-
wiched in the Lake. For about 2& miles from here the surface of the
Lake is almost plaiu, with some blocks of ice here and there, and then
up t o Chang-donkhang there are huge blocks of all types.
1:roln
Chang-donkhang up t o the mouth of the Gyuma chhu there are
series of parallel banks of white opaque ice, one foot high and three
feet apart and running into the 1,ake for half a mile like the furrows
in a potato field. These parallel banks make an angle of about 50"
with the shore towards the south-east. At the inouth of the Ciyuma
chhu hundreds of fish, big ant1 sniall, are frozen t o death in a swimming
- . ..
THE HOLY MANASAROVAR AND RAKSHAS TAL
P E C U L I A R S U R F A C E P HE N OME N A 3 3
posture, which could be seen clearly through the transparent ice.
From the Gyuma chhu t o Sham tso there are fine models of regular
mountain ranges with peaks, valleys, passes, and tablelands, all
of opaque white ice not exceeding eight feet in height. I n one of the
rounds of the Lake the author mused himself like a schoolboy for full
two hours in these ranges t o find out the likeness of the various peaks
of the Himalayas. He could find in these ranges varieties of peaks-
pyramidal, conical, tetrahedronal, trapezoidal, slant, steep, wedge-
shaped, hood-like, wall-like, spade-like, club-like and so on-of course
not in the same order as in the Himalayas and other ranges. From
Sham tso up t o the mouth of Gugta, i t is a vast field of ice with marks
exactly resembling the hoofs of yaks and horses, as in a rice-field
made ready for plantation by several bullocks. As a matter of fact,
in his first winter parikrama of the Holy Lake the author mistook
them for the footprints of wild horses and yaks. There is water al-
most all the year round at the mouth of the Gugta ; for a mile beyond
this place, one sees beautiful formatioils of ice, like coral-reefs. From
here up to Thugolho could be seen all varieties of formations and erup-
tions without any special features at any particular place, excepting
at the mouth of the Niinapendi. Mostly between the mouths of the
Gyuma and the Tag, all along the edge of the Lake, there is a fine
footpath of ice 6 t o 10 feet broad where beginners can practise
skating and where the author used t o slide on merrily.
Besides these, the author would just mention a few more interesting
features of the frozen Manas and then proceed to the breaking of the
Lake. pow and then the ice on the Lake bursts forth and fountains
of water gush out and small pools are formed temporarily on the ice,
only to be frozen hard during the night ; but such pools formed in early
spring are of bigger dimensions and do not freeze again t o welcome the
early-coming adventurous pairs of swans. I n some corner, thousands
of white needles and pins, flowers and creepers of various designs form
tulder and over the transparent greenish-blue ice. Occasionally one
sees several regularly-beaten white footpaths and lines on the entire
surface of the transparent Lake, which vanish also in a night in an
equally mysterious way. These may be termed ' iniiiiature fissures'
though there are no chasms. When the Lake breaks, the bigger
sheets of ice collide with one another and split up into smaller pieces
alollg these paths and lines. Sometimes i t is one white sheet of ice from
edge to edge and sometimes the whole Lake becomes ttirquoise-blue
with innutnerable geometrical lines, diagrams, and designs. When
there is a fresh heavy snowfall, the whole surface becomes pure white.
The ice near the coasts bursts sometimes, and huge blocks of ice are
Pushed on to the shores up t o 24 feet with heaps of sinall pebbles, big
Stones, s?tid ctc., froin the bed of the Lake. Sometimes massive
34 K A I I , A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
blocks of ice are bodily lifted and hurled from the bed of the Lake
on to the shore, carrying with them small pebbles, big stones, mud
and sand. These blocks of ice melt away in spring and the pebbles,
stones, sand, etc. are left in heaps or spread in beds on the shores,
which conspicuously stand out different from those on the banks.
When pilgrims go there in summer, they are perplexed to see the
materials from the bed of the Lake on the shores at such distances
from the edges.
C H A P T E R I11
MELTING OF MANASAROVAR
EARI,Y PREMONITIONS
THE breaking of ice and its melting t o clear blue waters is even
more interesting and awe-inspiring sight than the freezing of the
Lake. A month before thawing sets in, along the west and south
coasts, at the mouths of the Ding tso and the Tag, ice melts and forms
a fine and picturesque blue border, 100 yards t o half a mile in breadth,
to the milk-white garment of the Lake. Here and there are seen pairs
of graceful swans majestically sailing on the perfectly smooth surface
of that border setting up small ripples on either side of their course.
Especially in the mornings they do not play in the waters or engage
themselves in ' belly-filling ' but sail calmly towards the sun with
half-closed eyes in a meditative mood and at the same time enjoy-
ing a good sun-bath. One such sight is a hundred times more effective,
impressive, and sufficient t o put one into a meditative mood than
a series of artificial sermons, meditation classes, or got-up speeches
from a pulpit. So i t is t hat our ancestors and Rishis used t o
keep themselves in touch with Mother Nature t o have a glimpse of
the Grand Architect. Small sheets and pieces of ice are also seen
drifting in the blue borders, with a flying couple of swans resting on
them now and then.
About 11 days before breaking, the disturbance in the Lake becomes
most iqtense between 6 and 10 a.m. and terrible sounds, rumblings,
groanings, crashes resembling the roars of lioils and tigers, trumpets
of elephants, blowing up of mountains with dynamites, and firing of
cannon are heard. One can hear notes of all sorts of musical instrn-
ments and cries of all animals. The agitation and the sounds are, in
all probability, due to the ice tearing itself off and breaking asunder
both in the fissures, and minor lines of cleavage, for, the chasms in
the main fissures a;e seen 60 t o 80 feet broad with blue waters. The
white ice-garment on the Holy Lake presents a fine and beautiful
spectacle of a huge Bengali sari with broad blue borders both at the
edges and ii; the middle. Nine days before the breaking of the Lake,
the coastwards sheets of ice, ranging in length from a few yards t o
half a mile, get isolated froin the iliaill sheet of ice along the fissures
and other lines of cleavage and are drifted by winds mostly t o the
western, southern, and parts of the eastern shores, t o be stranded there
ill part, depending upon the way and *velocity with which they ap-
proach the banks. The reniaining portions of sheets which still remain
floating in the I,ake, dash against each other and break to pieces, the
smaller of which melt away in a day and the bigger reniaiii for a few
3 6 KA I L A S - MA N A S A R OV A R
days more near the shores, sharing the fate of others.
When tliese
sheets of ice drift towards the shores in the evenings, they appear to
be moving very slowly but their velocity can very well be perceived
when they are partly stranded on the shores t o lengths ranging from
6 to 90 feet. It is thrilling t o see the lightning rapidity with which
these torn pieces of ice get up the shores with great grating noises.
These are stranded on the shores either as 1 t o 2 feet thick sheets or in
heaps 2 to 6 feet high or in smaller heaps of smooth thin glassy sheets.
It is rather curious to note t hat the stranded sheets of ice break up
into small and big brick-like pieces, the sides of which resemble the
sides of pieces of mercury sulphide.
FINAL BREAKING OF ICE I N THE LAKE
After thus exhibiting a series of interesting and versatile trans-
formations, the whole of the remaining Lake, all of a sudden, one night,
breaks into a clear beautiful and charming blue expanse to the sur-
prise and joy of the villagers and pilgrims on the shores, the next
morning, who immediately climb up to their house-tops and hail the
vast expanse, extending before them even like the very sky overhead ;
they show the same enthusiasm as they do when they find her frozen
in winter, hoisting coloured flags, burning incense, telling prayers and
exclaiming words of praise t o the gods in heavens. Tihetails
believe that the Holy Manasarovar breaks on the full moon or llew
moon day or on the 10th day of the bright or dark half of the lunar
month. But contrary t o their traditions the Manas broke on the
12th day of the dark fortnight-Vaishakha Krishna Dvadasi apcording
to North Indian almanac and Chaitra Krishna Dvadasi according
to South Indian calendar, corresponding t o May 7,, in the year 1937-
One forgets himself for hours togelher gazing at the beauty, charm,
and grandeur of the oceanic Lake, teeming with pairs of gracefulswans
here and there merrily tossing up and down the waves. On account
of the high waves dashing against each other, illusory pairs ofwhite
foamy swans make their appearance, which it is very difficult to
distinguish from the real ones. When the Lake broke finally, solne
bigger sheets of ice remained unmelted arid were drifted t o the north
coast which also eventually collided against one another on accoullt of
severe winds and broke t o pieces and melted away within three days
in the blue depths.
# *
l wo or three weeks before the Lake breaks, a peculiar change
occurs in the texture and hardness of the ice. What could not have been
struck and broken into smaller pieces even by means of crowbars in
winter, now becomes so brittle that a blow with a stick breaks it up
1 In 1!)44, tho Lake tnolt,~tl on May I , ( Vrsi 8l mA. h~ Shc~kk6 . VI LJJ~L, ~I ~) .
E P I L OGUE 37
into small pieces.
The sheets of ice t hat have drifted aiid piled up on
the shores (during the week before the breaking of the Lake), when
kicked, crumble down to small crystals like those of saltpetre. When
he would go out for a walk in the evenings, the author used to knock
down several such heaps of brittle ice and amuse himself as they crum-
bled down into tiny crystals to melt away in a couple of days.
One
cannot get a solid piece of hard ice, as big as a cocoanut, from any of
these heaps ; but some of the huge blocks of ice t hat are hurled aiid
piled up on the shores by coastal explosions during winter, cannot be
moved by half a dozen strong men and exist for as many as 20 to 30
days after the breaking of the Lake.
EPILOGUE
Now with waves rising up to the sky and roaring as in an ocean,
and now presenting a perfectly still clear-blue sheet of water mirroring
the moon and the stars and the Kailas or the Mandhata ;
now like a sheet of gold in the morning sun, aiid now like a mass of
molten silver in the full moon light ; now rocking the Kailas and the
Mandhata on her gentle ripples as in a cradle ; iiow calm, serene,
and silent even like the space beyond, and now disturbed and roaring,
dashing, and lashing the shores ; sometimes raising tempestuous winds
flinging even the sheep and goats in the surroundings ; iiow a beauti-
ful blue aiid now a hard white mass, Lake Manasarovar, with her
hundreds of Avatars and myriads of chaiigiiig forms, offers an enigma
to the puny self-conceited human being to think, meditate, and per-
haps u1Jimately fail to comprehend all these. All hail, Oh Manas !!
Lake of the Royal Sages aiid Swans !! Victory to Thee !!!
KAILAS - MANASAROVAR
SECOND WAVE
KAITAAX - MANASARIOVAR REGION
23. Girls of Chaudasle Bhot
[ Beep, 98
23. Bhotia women
[ 8ae p. 88
- - -
flPri*$ s'ollroit of
the Karnali
I J S ~ p . 1 1 9
I
C H A P T E R I
PHYSIOGRAPHY
TIBET
TIBET was originally called Bod-yul, later on Both, To-both,
Tuboth, Ti-both, and finally Tebej ; hence the modern name Tibet.
Even now Tibetans call the country Po, Both, Bod, or Chang-thang
(northern plateau), although there is a separate province called
Chang-thang in Tibet.
In Sanskrit literature Tibet is known by the names Kinnara
Khanda, Kimpurusha Khanda, Trivishtapa, Svarga Blzoomi, or Saarna
Bhoomi. In ancient times, Tibet on the north, Burma (Shree Kshetra),
Siam (Kamboja Rashtra), and Indo-China (AIa2ava or Amaravati) on
the east, Malaya, Sumatra (Svarna Dvipa) , Java (Yava Dvipa) ,
Borneo, Vali, and other islands on the south-east, Ceylon (Lanka)
on the south, and Afghanistan (Gandhara) on the west, were a part
of Greater India and have been closely connected with it religiously,
spiritually, and culturally.
Tibet is the loftiest tableland in the world ranging from 12,000
to 16,000 feet above sea-level, with mountains covered with
eternal snows. It has an area of 814,000 square miles with a popu-
lation of about 3,000,000 t o 5,000,000 (?) and with habitation even
at a height of 17,000 feet above sea-level. The major part of the
country is mountainous, bleak, and barren excepting a few valleys here
and there. There are, however, good many forests in the regions
adjoini'ng Indian borders, especially the Central and the Eastern
Tibet. There are several salt-water lakes like Koko Nor and Lob
Nor and fresh vdater lakes like Tgo Mavang and Langak Tso. Koko
Nor is the biggest of the Tibetan lakes with an area of about 1,630
square miles. Some of the biggest and the most famous rivers like the
Hwang-Ho, Yangtse-Kiang, Brahmaputra, Indus, Sutlej, and Karilali,
take their rise here.
The Capital of Tibet is Lhasa (12,890), situated on the right bank
of the Kyi chhu and has a populatioll of nearly 60,000, half of which are
lnotlks. Shlgartse and Gyantse are the next biggest towns with
a population of 25,000 each. The population of Tibet is concen-
trated in the Brahmaputra valley where there is a good cultivable
land.
KAILAS - MANASARCPVAR REGION
Tibet can roughly be divided into five divisions : (1) Western
Tibet or Ngari-Korsum, extending up to Ladakh on the west and
UP to .Tradum Tasaln beyond the source of the Brahmaputra,
a
4 2 R A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
(2) Central Tibet, comprisiiig of Tsang, Yu (U), Lhoiiak, and Kongpo,
(1,hasa and other biggest towns are situated in this division), (3)
Eastern Tibet or Kham (herein is situated t he famous Monastery of
Derge, noted for its bronzes ; most of t he parts of this division are
under Gyalpos or Chiefs, (4) North-Eastern Tibet or Amdo or Koko
Nor (herein is situated t he famous Moilastery of Kum-bum of one
lakh images), and (5) Northern Tibet or Chang-thang extending up
t o the Chinese ~u r k e s t a n on t he north. As a matter of fact a large
part of Eastern Tibet and Koko Nor are under China and the
boundaries of Tibet are not well dernarked. (See Map No. 5 ) .
Ngari-Korsum or Western Tibet originally coiisisted of three Pro-
vinces, namely Ladakh, Shang-Shung or Guge (west of Manasarovar),
and Purang ; but in t he year 1841 1,adakh was annexed t o Kashmir.
Kailas-Manasarovar Region is situated in the south-eastern part of
Ngari, of which Purang is a part.
Based upon the Tibetan and Hindu traditions and certain geogra-
phical factors, the author names the region round about Kailas and
Manasarovar ' Kailas-Manasarovar Region ', ' Kailasa Khanda ',
' Kailas Region ', ' Manasarovar Region ', ' Manasa Khanda ' or
' Manas Region '. The extent of Manasa Khanda is up t o Tuksum
Tasam on the east, Indian borders on the south, Sib chhu on the
west, and Gartok and the source of the Indus on the north; though
the Greater Manasa Khanda would include t l ~ e tract up to
Chhabrang Zong. This Region is nearly 200 miles long from east to
west and 100 miles broad from north t o south.
MOUNTAINS
The Kailas, Gurla' Mandhata, Surange, and Ka,nglung, are the
chief mountain ranges in the Kailah-Manasa ~ e ~ i o n . ' Zaskar Range
is on the southern boundary of the Region. The highest peaks are
Curla Mandhata (26,355 ; 22,650 ; and 22,160 feet) and Kailas (22,028).
,
RIVERS
The sources of the Sutlej, Inclus, Rrahmaputra, ant1 Karl~ali are
situated in this Region. The Sib chhu, Chhunak, C'uni-yankti,
Darma-yankti, Gyanima chhu, 1,angchen Tsangpo, Clhornak, Missar
chhu, Trokpo-nup, Trokpo-shar, ( hyak, Cliukta, Tsethi, Munjan,
Bokliar, T,angpoche, Par chhu, Gartong, Angsi, Kubi, Mayurn, Kyang,
Chrla, Baldak, Ringung, Garu, Dangchen, C;ejin, Kangje, I,halung,
Chokro, Thitiphu, ancl Yangae are the tributaries of the above
four rivers. Besides these there are the rivers T)am chhu Topchhen,
Co menun Heacl ant1 Lha mefins Ci ~ j t l ; So No-l hn, (:ovl n, c,r f?rrvlrr mr:tnr tlir nhnl l ~
of the hi ghe~t tl~t.(rlnry deity, Rnn~tllll.
~hollg chhu, 'l'archhen chhu, Lha chhu, and Karleb chhu, coming
from Kailas and falling illto the Rakshas Tal ; Tag, Nimapeiidi,
I<iljung, Riljen, Namreldi, Selung-hurdung, Gyuma, Kuglung,
Lungnak, Palchen, Palchung, and Samo falling into t he Maria-
sarovar ;
Tak-karpo and others falling into t he Rakshas ; and a few
others falling into the Kongyu tso.
Most of these rivers are dried
up in winter and the remaining are frozen.
LAKES
The Rilailasarovar and the Rakshas are t he two biggest freshwater
lakes, of which the first is the deepest in Tibet.
Kurkyal-Chhungo,
Ding tso, Sham tso, Gouri-kund, Nyak tso, and Tamlung, are smaller
freshwater lakes. The water of Shushup tso, Tseti, Gyanima,
and Chhakra lakes, is slightly brackish. Kongyu (Gunchhu) tso,
Arkok tso, and Argu tso are salt-water lakes.
CLIMATE
. The climate of Kailas-Manasarovar Region in particular and of
Tibet in general is very cold, dry and windy. Monsoon sets in late
and rainfall is scanty ; but \rhen i t rains i t does in torrents. I n
suiiimer all streains and rivers flow very rapidly and sometimes become
u~~fordable in the evenings, due t o melting snows. The sun is pret t y
hot in summer but i t becomes very cold as soon as t he sky becomes
cloudy. During the pilgrim season (July and August), very often
the Holy Kailas aiid the Mandhata Peaks would be enveloped in
clouds,snd be playing hide-and-seek with t h e visitors. During the
cloudy part of day and in nights i t would be very cold. There
will be tempestuous winds from the beginning of November up t o
the middle of Itlay. Weather changes like the weathercock. Now
you will be perspiring profusely in the hot sun and in a few mintltes
time cool breeze will st art t o blow gently, the next moment you will have
clouds with terrific thunder aiid lightning followed by drizzling rain or
downpotlrs of wat& in torrents ; sometimes you will see a rainbow ;
shortly after, you niny have a hailstorm followed by showers of snow-
fall. Here is bright sun ; a little further away a shower of rain ;
atid furthe; up lashillg rains. Here is perfect calmness ; the iiext
momelit there break out whizzing tempestuous winds. Now you
are on the top of a inountain in the bright sun ; below, you see
columns of clouds rising like smoke ; and further down i t is raining.
Here on a conical peak the ice is glittering in the sun like a bar of
silver ; there on a dome-like peak are' hanging golden canopies ; the
far-off mountain ranges are enveloped in thick wreaths of inky-black
clouds ; there appears a belt of amber clouds or the seven-coloured
semicircular rainbow encircles the Dome of Kailas ; or the nearby
Mandhata's giant hoods are ablazeinscarlet flames when the sun begins
to dip in the west ; or the meagre snow-clad Poilri peak raises its head
into the pitch-dark messengers of Indra. Sometimes at sunset,
the snow-clid massif of the Mandhata and the Kailas Range, silhout-
ted against the pitch dark blue sky throws one into raptures. Here
in front of you the rising suii pours forth molten gold on the azure
expanse of the enchanting Lake, throwing you into a deep spell;
there a far-off valley gives out thick fumes of sulphur under peculiar
weather conditions, indicating the presence of big thermal springs.
From one side warm winds give you a good welcome and from
another valley shivering cold blasts attack you. Sometimes it seems
t hat day and night, morning, .boon, and evening, and all the six
seasons of the year have their sway simultaneously.
Twilights are unusually long ; t hat is t o say, there would be plenty
of light for nearly an hour or even more just before sunrise and after
sunset. Due t o very high altitude, and the consequent rarified and
dust-free air, distant places and objects appear t o be nearer. Some-
times, even when there are high waves near the shores of Manasarovar,
the middle is smooth like a mirror reflecting the mountains or the mid-
night moon and stars. Sometimes huge roaring waves are seen
dashing against the shores when there are apparently no heavy winds.
Oftentimes one can note, from the heights on the shores, path-like
bands in the Lake. The occurrence of these phenomena might be
due t o some hot or cold water currents, set up by the thermal springs
situated in the bed of the Lake or due t o some kind of tidal
waves, though they may not be identical with the ebb and tide of the
sea. The dark sapphire-blue of the Tibetan sky is a blue so enchant-
ing, tranquil, and inspiring in itself, t hat it can lull one into ecstasies.
>.
FLORA
In some villages of the Lake Region the grass is smooth like vel-
vet with a carpet of brilliant tiny flowers in rose, violet, and yellow
colours ; at other places it is sharp and cutting like steel blades. In
the upper parts of some valleys are countless designs of flowers of
various hues, over which botanists could very well devote some time
to find out new materials for research. On one side there is a sort
of sweet-scented artemisia (davanam) used as incense ; on another
side a different variety of incense creeper grows in still higher regions
like the slopes of Kailas ; here and there are the prickly rugged duma
bushes (a sort of juniper or fprze) 2 to 3 feet high, which provides
the people of these parts with firewood, since it burns even whell
green and freshly cut. In the upper valley of (>urla chhu and ill
some other places, a variety of red-harked tree called urrtbn or langnlfl
grows to a height of 6 to 7 feet. Pertrn, a variety of deod-~r, 8 to
10 feet high, grows in Shar, the last village in Purang valley, the
leaves of which are used as incense. A variety of willow called
chafigma is specially grown here and there in the Purang valley, but
no big trees which would yield timber, although poplars and other
trees grow in some places of Eastern Tibet. So it is only the poet's
stretch of imagination and the artist's stroke of brush t hat make
Lord Shiva and Parvati sit under a huge tree at the foot of the per-
petual snow-clad Peak of Kailas or under a tall deodar tree on the
banks of Manasarovar.
A plant called jinbu orlljimbu, the Tibetail onion, grows wildly in
abundance near the hot springs of the Tag tsangpo, at Tirthapuri,
Nabra, Dapa, Tuling, and a t several other places in Western Tibet.
Khampas (Tibetans domiciled in India) carry hundreds of mule-loads
of dried jinbu plant t o India, where it is used for spicing dishes. Jee~a
is a wild growth in Kardung valley, Khochar, and other places. In
the flats formed on either side of streams, in their lowermost
course of almost all the beds of streams, a thorny bush, called taruva
grows in plenty. This bush is a foot high and yields a yellow
fruit called tarchenza which is as big as pepper and is sour in taste. It
is called chook in hill districts and is used for chutney. Tibetan garlic
(gokpa), bathztva, and bichhoo-ka-booti grow here and there. Rhubarb
and aconite are seen growing in the upper parts of some valleys.
Inferior variety of mushroom, both edible and non-edible, grows in
the surroundings of Manasarovar.
There are plenty of water-reeds in the Lake under the surface of
water. ,Sometimes the smell of iodine is felt yhile going on the
shores. So i t is just probable t hat the reeds might contain traces
of iodine, which should interest a chemist.
Here on the &ores of Manasamvar the author had found out a
wonderful drug called thuma. It is a marvellous specific for sperma-
torrhoea and an excellent aphrodisiac. Thzlma is the root of a tiny
creeper thriving at a height of 16,000 feet above the sea-level. It
is llot possible to collect even half a pouild of it in a whole day. There
is, however, an interesting way of procuring it. When the root is
well ripe, wild rats collect and store it in their holes in tlie month of
October for iise in winter. The poor folk of these parts deprive the
rats of their winter provisions. Just as vidnri-knnda, a big tuber
used in importaiit inedical preparatioiis by I<nvirajas or Vaids, is
eaten as food by sonie of the wild tribes, so also this root is eaten by the
Poor as food for a few days. 'I'he well-to-do use it as a delicacy on
special occasiolls like the New Year's 6ay. The claims of this drug
n l a ~ he verified and put to test by iiieclical i1iei1.
C H A P T E R I1
GEOLOGY
GENERAL
THE walls of Kailas Peak consist of conglomerate (rock composed of
pebbles cemented together through the course of age and pressure),
which is considered to be not later than the Eocene period, i.e.
55,000,000 years old. The mountains of this Region in general and
of Purang valley, those separating the two Lakes, and all those
around Kailas in particular, mostly consist of conglomerate. The
south and western side of Kailas consist of horizontally stratified
conglomerate, but these strata are somewhat inclined on the
eastern side. Huge granite boulders and crags border the path
from Dira-phuk to Dolma la and down t o Lham-chhukhir on the
other side of the pass.
FOSSILS
Geology tells us that millions of years back there were no
Himalayas and t hat the area now occupied by them was a huge sea, and
that the Himalayas heaved up gradually in course of time and that they
are still growing, and t hat they are the youngest though they are
the highest in the world. Shells, snails, and other fauna of the sea,
animals, trees, leaves, and other things t hat remained embedded in
the strata of earth have been, in the course of millions of years, petri-
fied, yet maintaining the shape arid structure of the originals.
These petrified objects are called fossils ; they may be of sea or of
land-fauna, of plants, leaves, nuts, fruits, bones, or any other organic
substance or even footprints of &animals. With the help of these
fossils the geologist tries t o link up the past with the present.
Shalagrama ( m), Shaligram or saligram, is nothing else
but the marine fossil ammonite of the Jurassic Tethys. Shalagrama,
in Sanskrit language means, petrified insect. SO' Hindus knew of the
fossils long before the modern scientist deciphered it. Orthodox
Hindus consider shnlngrama to be the symbol of Vishnti and war-
ship it as such. Several people believe t hat sCtalngvnma contains
gold but it is a mere delusion. The cause underlying this wrong
notion is that some marine fossils contain iron pyrites which is pale-
yellow in colour, having the appearance of gold. This is mistaken
by ignorant people both in ,the West and in the East as gold and
hence it is also known as ' fool's gold '. The author had secured some
such pyrites fossils from Kuti for the Benares Hindu university
and the University of Calcutta, in the year 1940.
Within the knowledge of the author there are many marine fossils
T H E R MA L S P RI NGS 4 7
at Damodar-kund, Muktinath, 'I'inker, Lipu Lekh pass, Kuti,
blangshang pass, Darlna pass, Kangri-bingri pass, Niti, Puling, and
at several other places.
In the year 1942 the author had brought a marine fossil-bed weigh-
ing 14 pounds from Tso Kapala, situated a t the southern foot of
Kailas Peak and sent i t t o t he Geological Survey of India for exami-
nation.
This is the first find of fossils from the Kailas. Range. Here
is the report : " The specimens are very hard and tough sandy
limestone containing marine fossils beloiigi~ig t o the lamellibranchia,
doubtfully referable t o the genera Astarte, Ostrea etc. The general
look of the speci~ne~ls and the faunal assemblage indicate a probable
Mesozoic age for the beds." ' 1.lesozoic period is 190,000,000 years
old. I11 the years 1945 and 1946 the author had brought some more
marine and bone fossils and casts of fossils from Maliasa Kha~i da
which are awaiting examination. He had also discovered a huge
marine fossil-bed on the parikranza of Kailas, about a mile before
reaching the Dolma la. It may weigh anything betnreen 120 and
160 pounds. I n 1947 he has collected 99 fossils from the Bongza
Range in Central Tibet. This is the first collectio~l of fossils from
Central Tibet and the second find from Tibet. Besides these, he had
collected some more fossils fronl different places in Western Tibet.
The author had also collected a few impleinents of the stone age
from Kailas Region.
A hard substance dugri, called bzjli-ha-hnddi by Bhotias, is com-
monly used by Tibetan medical men. It is believed t hat it falls on
earth through lightning. One of the specimens \vhicli the author
had exakned contai~ied a lot of silica and some alumina and cal-
cium oxide. I n 1943 he had procured another specimen which
t we d out t o be *good fossilized joint of a bone ; so dfrgri is n bone
fossi! .
THERMAL SPRINGS
There are three tl'lermal springs on the Ganga Cllhu about two
furlotigs fro111 Manasarovar down the Chin hill. One spring is on the
right bank, and one on the left bank (with a kzrnd t o take bath),
one boiliug sp;ing 011 a stllall rock ill tlie middle of tlie C h g a Clihu,
having tenil>eratures of I 1 so, 135", and 170'1:. respectively. There
are some in t l ~ e bed of the bIanasarovar, especially 2ths of n mile south
of the heginning of the C>anga Chhu (see p. 18). About 3 or 4 miles
from the shore; of the Manas, situated oil the left bank of the Tag
tsatlgpo, there are several hot springs a t ~~oni ba - c hhut e u (mad-hot
' The n11tl101. i.i tllnnkflll to 1)1-. h l l i Prnqatl, S~~~j rri nt cnt l mt ~, ~ool opi t 3al Sllrvry of Indict
Rntlto arr. 1'. N. fiTl~ltl,crjrr of t l ~ r (:c.olngicnl Sl ~rvry of India for linving c~uciminad thc fossil-
11"1 l l r o ~ ~ h t %t,,11 Knilnq,
48 K A I I , A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
springs), varying in range from lukewarm t o boiling temperatures,
spread over a large area, out of which a regular stream of hot water
flows into the Tag. Opposite these springs on the right bank of the Tag
are some caves called Chhu-phuk, where a few monks live in winter.
Just near the caves there are some chhortens and mani-walls and the
foundation of an old ruined monastery, said t o be of Guru Padmasam-
bhava and pulled down by Zoravar Singh. Some shepherds of
Nonokur camp here in early spring and autumn for a couple of
months in each season. Near the caves and a mile down at Ambu-
phuk there are some more hot springs. About gths of a mile up Nyomba-
chhuten, situated on the left bank of the Tag, there are some
hot springs and some boiling and bubbling geysers. This place is
called Tomo-mopo. About 44 miles north-west of Manasarovar
is Tirthapuri where there are some more thermal springs, near
which the demon Bhasmasura was said t o have been burnt to
ashes. There are large deposits of calcium carbonate and other
compounds of calcium all around the hot springs, which change
their positions now and then and sometimes disappear too.
There are several extinct craters near the monastery. There
are a few more hot springs on the left bank of the Sutlej at
Khyunglung, 14 miles down Tirthapuri. I t is interesting to note
that like the beads on a string, there is a series of hot springs
on the Tag at Tomo-mopo, Nyomba-chhuten, Chhuphuk, and
Ambu-phuk, in the bed of Manasarovar, in the Ganga Chhu, at
Tirthapuri, and Khyunglung.
There is a thermal spring of luke-warm water on the right bank
of the Karnali, midway between Kardung and Taklakot ; and some
extinct craters on the left bank of the river. There are some hot
springs in the upper part of the Nangse valley.
' J
The author feels that these hot springs and geysers, situated at a
height ranging from 13,000 t o 15,000 feet above the sea-level, have
got a great radon content and possess radio-active properties.
Patients suffering from rheumatism, lumbago, gout, dropsy, beri-
beri, skin diseases, digestive disorders, and incurable diseases,
visit these springs and stay there for some days using their water for
bath and drink the water. Many are reported to have got good relief
from the said ailments. Since the radon content and the radio-active
$ropertiesof the water are often likely to be lost by the time they are
brought to the laboratory in the plains, as it would take more than
a month to be brought, those interested in the subject should go
and analyse the waters on the spot. Since the Manas Region
is full of volcanic and igneous rocks and remnants and extinct
craters, the geologist would find a good deal of material for
study.
MINERALS
Gold
Almost parallel to the Ganga Chhu at a distance of about a mile
on the south there is a vein of gold deposit extending from the shores
of the Manas right up to the Rakshas. They were mined about the year
1900, but nothing is being done now-a-days. During the last mining
operation it was said t hat there had been an outbreak of small-pox
which was attributed by the Tibetans to the wrath of the presiding
deity of the mines and consequently the mining was stopped by the
Government. During the !last mining operation, it was also said,
that one gold nugget as big as a dog (according t o another version,
a dog-like nugget) was found. At the place where the nugget was
found a chhorten was constructed, called ' Serka-khiro ' (gold-dog).
This place is about a mile south of Chiu Gompa.
There are some gold mines in the district of Songkora or Sankora
situated at a distance of a week's march on the north-east of Mana-
sarovar. Mining is done here n~ostly in winter. It is reported t hat
gold is collected at depths ranging from 18 to 24 feet and t hat one
collects 3 to 6 tolas of gold in the course of a season. The gold of
this region goes to Gyanima and Chhakra Mandi for sale.
Some 15 days' march northwards from the shores of the Manas
leads one to the extensive and richer goldfields at Thok-jalung, Munak-
thok, Rungmar-thok, Thok-daurakpa, and t o several other places
where they are being worked by the most primitive methods, scarcely
worth the name of mining. Gold is found in nuggets and spangles
in mine6 and dust in rivers. It is said t hat once a gold nugget weigh-
ing 525 ounces was dug from one of the gold mines. There are hundreds
of gold washers in Tibet. I n the year 1918, Tibetan gold was sold
at the rate of RS!'~O per tola at Llfasa, according to the account given
by the Governor of Taklakot. It is the mining experts and the
ellterprising capitalist t hat can ascertain and find ways and means
to exploit these vast goldfields on up-to-date scientific methods and
on a commercial b'asis and t o explore some more virgin gold and
silver mines and other mineral wealth.
Bovax
Lake Tseti tso, three miles north of Gossul Goinpa, by the side of
Manasarovar, has large deposits of borax and soda both on the shores
and on the islands in it. The Tibetan Government has now stop-
ped the working of borax at t hat place due to the superstitious
belief that the ~nillitlg deity became enraged. But some of the white
deposits are carried by the people in the surrouildings and used for
washirig hands and clothes. There are very big borax-fields at Lang-
mar (abcnt 140 miles from the Manas) in Western Tibet and at several
60 KA I 1 , A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
other places, where, in the year 1928 i t was sold at the rate of 30
to 10 pounds per rupee or as mtlch as a big goat could carry.
Otlter 1Min~rals
There are several lakes in Tibet in which there are large deposits of
salt. It is from these deposits t hat the shepherds bring large quantities
of salt t o various markets. The salt t hat comes t o the mandis of Manasa
Khanda is mostly from Arkok tso and Majin. Thousands of maunds
of Tibetan lake-salt are sold every year t o a greater part of the
Himalayan regions of India.
Trisulphide and bisulphate of arsenic are found near Kungri-
bingri pass, round about Chhirchin, and near Mangshang. These t wo
compounds of arsenic are found in other parts of Tibet also. On
the eastern shores of the Manas and Rakshas there is a violet-red
sand called rhema-nenga in Tibetan. I t contains iron, titanium, and
emery. About three miles south of Zuthul-phuk Gompa, in Chhumik-
ri, the rocks on both sides of Chhumik-thungtol, and near Kungri-
bingri pass, one comes across the zaharmora stone (serpentine) of
white, red, rose, grey, and mixed colours. This is used by Hakims
in Unani medicines. It is a soft and smooth stone with a hardness
of 2.7. A similar stone of black variety called thaneri-patthar is
found near Kungri-bingri pass. It is used for ulcers on the breast.
Near Gurla-phuk, Lachato, on the south of Zuthul-phuk Gompa, and
other places one could see exoteric rocks of peredotite which is in the
process of turning into serpentine. Near Tsepgye, Khyunglung and
other places, quartz and calcium carbonate are found in crysta1lir.e form.
There are vast plains of soda and potash everywhere in Tibet, and
near Gyanima, Chhakra, and near hot springs in Manasa Khanda.
Timestone is found in Purang ~a l l c 2 ~ ; and tons of cilcium carbonate
deposits at Khyunglung, Tirthapuri, and at other hot springs. The
white substance t hat is brought by pilgrims from the northern foot
of Kailas as vibhuti contains calcium sulphate, calciuni carbonate,
and aluminium in small quantities'. Yellow and red ochre are
found at Tirthapuri, 'rag chhu, Purang valley, and at other places
with which monasteries and houses are painted. Best ,?ottery clay
is foulid rienr Riljung chhu, with which pots and tea-kettles are made
at Thugolho. At several places beautiful slabs of black and grey
and pale greenish-blue alabaster-like slate and other stones are found
everywhere on which Tibetans ustlally engrave their sacred mnntras
and scriptures.
1
Tho aut hor I * gratnf111 t o Mr. Sllrnrlrt Rnj u, hl.Sr , . t wi rt . ~t nt Profc-nnor of C:hriniWq
and t o Dr. Ra j na t l ~, H ~ n d of t ho 1) ~part mel l t of Geology, I + n ~ . r e ~ Hirirlr~ I:nivnmit,y, for
t ho i nt pr r ~t t h ~ y hat1 t akrn In exami ni ng nnrl annlysiny! t'llr niinornla nncl obhrr nprrimrnR
1)rtrilght frorn K~i l as - Mannna Repi on.
Besides gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, coal, linlesto~ie, sulphur,
~llercury, shilajil, kerosene oil, aiid rock-salt are also found in different
parts of Tibet. But they are all it1 virgin state now. At a distailcc
hf 3 days' jouriiey froiii Gartok there are lead iiii~ies near Gemuk.
HUMAN GEOGRAPHY
PEOPLE AND DWELLINGS
THE population of Manasa Khanda may roughly be computed at
10,000. People, both men and women in general, are strong, sturdy,
and hard-working ; they have great power of resistance to cold and
hardships ; they are primitive, cheerful, pleasure-loving, peaceful,
religious-minded, very hospitable, contented, but dirty in habits
and customs. Lamas and officers are highly cultured and polite.
There is no caste system in Tibet. But the smiths are the only second
class, with whom the rest of the society does not inter-marry or inter-
dine ; so every Tibetan is the embodiment of all qualities, beginning
from those of a priest to those of a sweeper.
It is only the Purang valley t hat is fairly well populated with fixed
abodes. These abodes are flat-roofed and are often in two storeys,
built of big sun-dried bricks and the little timber t hat they get from
the Indian borders. The roofing is made of light timber and bushes,
over which mud is spread. The comparative sparseness of houses
in the Kailas-Manas Region is due t o the fact t hat transit of timber
to their inaccessible regions, encountering difficult passes on yaks
aiid ponies, is highly expensive. Sometimes even two houses
go to make a village. Their monasteries are built similarly but on
a larger scale.
About half the population of the Region subsists on cattle-b~eedillg
especially of the yak, sheep, and goat. They live in black tents
made of yak-hair, and wander from valley to valley grazing their
cattle. 3 !,
A part of the population of Purang lives also in caves dug into the
conglomerate walls of hills which are made into regular houses by
construction of walls and gates in the front side. Some of the caves
are even two or three-storeyed high. Such houses are found mostly in
Gtkung near Taklakot, in the villages Garu, Doh, Ringung, Dull$-
mar, Karclurig etc. Gukung is a typical cave-village situated on
the right bank of the Kartiali about half a mile from Takfakot Mandi.
# .
lhere is a gonipa also situated in a three-storeyed cave-dwelling.
On the southern side of Manasarovar, situated in the upperinost part
of the Namreldi valley, are some caves where the people of southern
shores of the Manas took refuge in severe cold, when the ~(ashmiri
General, Zoravar Singh, invaded the Manas Region in the year 1841.
There is a deserted Cave-Colony at Parigtha on the Sib chhu, 6 miles
down Sihchilim 3Iaiidi The author visited this place in 1946. 'fhere are
hundreds of ~ a . ~ - ~ ; here \r llich nere all nnce inha1,iterl bul u r ~ ~ v r l pqe~ tfd.
In the upper terrace or row of caves there is a nloiiastery
belonging to the Sakya Sect of I3uddhisni, with numerous fresco
paintings.
FOOD AND DRESS
The staple food of the people is meat-fresh, dry, cooked, or roasted-,
roasted barley powder (tsampa or suttzr, and plenty of dairy pro-
ducts. In the morning and evening they take thlzukpa, a semi-liquid
dish, that is prepared by boiling tsa??z+a and meat in water, with salt
added to it. The people of the Purang valley eat rice and bread
also, for rice and wheat are supplied in large quantities from Nepal
and Indian borders.
They use Chinese tea in large quantities.
Tea
is boiled for a long time, salt and butter are added, and churned
thoroughly in big woodell cylinders. A small quantity of crude
soda calledPh~tldo or sevzr-tsa is put in it to emulsify it and not to allow
the whole butter to float on the top. 'l'hey drink 50 to 150 cups
of tea throughout the day and in the night till they retire to bed,
according to their means. They take t smpa made illto a thick paste,
by mixing with tea. Chha~~g, a light beer prepared from barley, is their
national beverage, in ~vhich men, women, children, and nionks
indulge, more often on festive occasions. 'I'ea and clzhang are taken
either in small wooden cups silvered or otherwise, in China cups or
China-made stone cups by the rich, which are kept on silver stands
with silver lids on.
t I
lhe whole Region being at a height of 12,000 feet above the sea-
level i s very cold ; and so Tibetails wear long double-breasted
woollen gowns with a kanlarband (waist-band), one foot broad sash.
They wear woollen shoes, called lham, coming almost up to the knees,
which they need3not remove evea while entering the sanctum sanc-
(ovum of the temples in the monasteries. I n winter they wear coats,
trousers, and caps made of sheep or lamb-skins. When it is hot
they remove one or both hands off the coat, thereby exposing the
shoulders. omen* wear almost the same kind of dress as men,
with the addition of a, horizontally striped woolleii piece in the front,
from waist qown to the toes, and a tanned goat-skin 011 the back.
Men freely use Eilglish felt-hats which are brought froin Calcutta
other places and sold ill their markets. Rich people, officers,
and lamas wear costly dresses arid silks.
SOCIAL CUS~OMS
Monogamy is comnion, but polyandry also is in vogue, most
ljrobably an economic adjustmeilt to prevent the increase of popula-
tion, where struggle for existence is very hard. So when the elder
I j r ~t l ~r ~ 911 C, fntnlI5 1~~: l r r l e~ ,i ni f e, <he ai ~t oi nat i c~l I~- hecomes the
wife to all the other brothers ; and all of then1 live together
peacefully without any hitch. The wife is held in common,
though the younger brothers forin servants t o the elder. So much
so, the Tibetans to day have only as inany l~ouses and families
as they had ceilturies ago. Polygamy and child-marriage are not
unknown. Marriage takes place with the mutual consent of the
adult bride and bridegroom it1 consultation with their parents ; and
the ceremony is officiated by monks. Amongst widow and
widower the system of ni yoga is common, each living in her or his
house meeting in the night in the former's house, the woman being
the claimant of the offsprings. Such issues have equal legal rights
and social status as those of normal marriage. Ni yoga may be of a
temporary character or permanent. Widow-marriage is very common.
Monks and nulls shave their heads and wear a sort of violet-red
gowns, whereas householders both men and women plait their hair.
Women dress their hair in several plaits. They enjoy full social liberty
and equal status with men. As a mark of respect or salutation,
Tibetans bend a little and throw out their tongues and say khamjam-
bho or simply khamj am or joo. Monks take to all callings in life-
Gurus, high-priests, corpse-cutters, officials high and low, traders,
shepherds, servants, cooks, coolies, pony-drivers, shoe-makers,
cultivators, and what not from the highest t o the lowest-from
Dalai Lama to an ordinary coolie.
The maliner in which the higher order of monks bless varies
according to the status and social position of the blessed. The monk
brings his head near the head of the other and gently touches it if
he is also a high monk, or places both his hands on the heads of those
he loves most, or to whom he wants to show a greater favour. In
other cases he blesses with one hand, two fingers, 'or only with one
finger. The last mode of blessing is by touching the head with a
coloured piece of cloth tied to a short stick. The principle under-
lying in all the cases is t hat there should be some contact of the
blesser and the blessed in order to pass some power of efficacy to the
latter from the former, besides invoking the usual blessings.
Khatak is a loosely woven gauze-like or thin white cloth made of
cotton or silk of various sizes, the smallest being a foot long and three
inches wide and the largest a yard long and over a foot broad. The
presentation of i t is a mode of interchanging civilities. When a
person writes or visits an officer, a monk, or a friend, he encloses or
Presents a klzntak. During marriages and on festive occasions this is
presented. The non-observance of this custoin is considered a mark
of rudetlezs or lack of etiquette. This ceremonial scarf is give11
as a reverential offering to the deities in ~nonnsteries in place of a
garland.
Tibetans have a peculiar way of killing sheep for nient.
'l'hey
sllffocate the aili~nal t o tleatli by tying the moutll and nostrils tightly
arope, because i t is enjoined intheir religious texts t hat t he blood
of a living animal should not be spilt. While suffocating the animal
they repeat the nzani-mantra, so t hat its soul might get a huir~all
body in the next iucarnation.
The dead bodies of well-to-do monks are cremated while those of
poor monks and householders are hacked t o pieces and thrown t o
vultures or throw11 in a river if there is one nearby. Both birth and
death ceremonies are illany and coniplicated, varying with the
individual means and are much akin t o those of the Hindus. When
the dead body is cremated, the ashes are mixed with clay and moulded
into a small pyramid which is kept i n a monument known as chhortef~
corresponding t o the stupa or chaitya in India.
The chhorten is syin-
bolic of the five elements-the lowermost cubical part represents
earth, the spherical part over i t represents water, the triangular part
above it represents fire, the crescent forin over it represents air, and
the moon over i t represents ether.
Advent of Hzlddhisn~ i nt o Tihd
Buddhism was first introducecl into Tibet during the time of King
Srougchen Gampo, 1vho reigned from A.D. 630 t o 608.
It flourished
for sevtyal years uiicler the royal patronage. Begiil~ling from the
ninth century A.1). upto the iniddle of the seventeenth century,
great Acharyas like Shaiitarakshita of Nalanda University, Guru
Padmasambhaval,%eepankara Shrtejilai~a of Vikramashila University
(eleventh century), and a host of other Pandits and Teachers
from India, welxt t o Tibet and preached Buddhism, besides trans-
lating several Sanskrit, Pali, and other works illto Tibetan.
The
religion of Tibetans' is priinarily Buddhisnl with a queer admixture
of Tantrism or Snkiaism and the old Ron Dkarw~a -pre-Buddhistic
devil-worshipping religioll of Tibet. Tibet is predominantly a
priest-ridden country and as such some Western writers call the
religion of Tibet, I,amaisn~. One or two childre~l from every family
are initiated illto the order of ino~lks and lluils a t the age of two or
three. ,Nearly one third or one fourth of the population are nlonks
and 11u11s and the standard of nlorality is low.
DiJevcnt Schools o/ Bliddhisuc
Buddhisnl prevalent in Tibet is of the Mahayana School.
Tllere
are tellq different schools or sects vow prevalent ill Tibet,
56 K A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
(1) Ngingmapal of the eighth century was first introduced into Tibet by
Chinese monks. This school is prevalent in Bhutan, Wester11 Tibet,
and Ladakh. Several books of this school are not present in Kanjur
and Tanjur. (2) Urgyenpa of the ninth century. This school is
prevalent in those parts t hat are adjoining Nepal borders. Buddhists
of the Himalayan tracts in India are the followers of this sect. Samye
in Central Tibet is the chief monastery. They worship Urgyen or
Padmasambhava. (3) Kada~npa of the eleventh century. They
are the followers of Domten, the principal disciple of Deepankara
Shreejnana (Atislza). The followers of this school do not strive
much for the attainment of higher rungs of spirituality. (4) Sakyapa
of the thirteenth century. The moilks of this and the above three
sects put on red caps, as such they are named by lay writers as Red
Caps or Red Cap Sect. Their chief monastery is Sakya Gompae
and is situated in Central Tibet.
(5) Gelukpa (reformed sect) or Gnndenpa of the fourteenth century.
Chonkhapa was the founder of this sect. Canden is their principal
monastery. The followers of this school are the greatest in number. (6)
Kargyudpa. The followers of this school believe only in Do or Sutra
Granthas. They do not work for higher attainments. (7) Karmapa.
The followers d this sect believe in the efficacy of Karma or action.
(8) Dekungpa. Dekung is their chief monastery. liavgyudpa, Karmapa,
and Dekungpa are only the offshoots of Gelukja ; as such they are the
part and parcel of that school. The monks of all these Gelukpa Sects
put on yellow caps. So they are, by lay foreigners, called Yellow
Caps or Yellow Cap Sect. (9) Dukpa. The followers of this
school worship Dovje (Vajra or diamond, thunderbolt) which, they
believe, has fallen from heavens at Sera Monastery. sera is their principal
monastery. These are the follow~rs of Tantra MaJga3. (10) BofiPa
or Penbo. This is the religion prevailing in Tibet before the advent
of Buddhism. But now these have adopted several things from
Buddhism and worship the Buddhistic deities. They go to ~ ~ d d h i s t
monasteries but do anti-clockwise rounds of t he holy places. The
monks of the Red Cap Sect need not necessarily he celebates
and can openly marry if they choose or keep a woman. As a matter
of fact one df the two abbots of Sakya Gompa is a married persot11
but monks of the Yellow Sect are expected to be celebates and
if any monk marries openly, he shall have to pay very heavy fines
to the monastery to which he belongs. When not in the 1nonasterY1
I pn mean*, one helonging to.
The a~lthnrrec~ivrrtlaninvit. ntion from the abbot of t h i ~ n~onastnry in 1946, never I)cfore
nccordecl t80 an Inrli?i,n in rercnt tirncs. ()no riding pony,two lugg~gc! yaks and two 8orvants
were sent to tnkn him, I)r~t he could not go dno to Ills ot,hor rngnge~nents. From t l l i srnonf l ~~~~J'
tho B~~ddl l i vt nrhnlar 8hrc.e Rnhnl ;~ R:~nkrityn,vann hro~lght ~overnl Ran~lrrit rnn.nusc'riptg.
3 Ljee Appentlis 11.
32. Demchhog
in Yab-Y m
Pow fiom &.
Dee- Cave-
Col ony o f
Pm&s - .
Photo by OW-'
Ik., Arnold
dm ri0l A w l
1 3 ~ ~ Mor-
@en VwEcrg,
E M
[Reep. 8& 217
3 1. The Tutelary
Deity Demohhog
in Y~b- Ywn
Pwe from a
Banner Painting
in Sisnb'lling
[&a p, 8 & 216
P d m n h g the
WSi teei na
PfuwAk Cere-
mq r d e d
!Pama
[ Sea p. 68
The Author in
87. A Page from Kanjur.
40. Zongpo~'e Wife
[ 8- p. 76
39. Hie Ixoel l e~y the Governor (i4rmg.p~)
of T&lakot (10421-48) .
moilks and nuns live freely, but canilot marry openly, though some-
times nuns are seen with babes in their laps. Since monks and n~ul s
are initiated into the order a t a tender age, when they have absolu-
tely no idea of the life they are t o lead, i t is no wonder if they do
not have a high standard of morality. It is the system which is
at fault rather than t he
individuals.
Most of the monks are attached t o t he monasteries called go~npasl
(solitary places).
Gompas are a combillation of a temple (where
the image of the Buddha and other Buddhistic deities are kept and
worshipped), a math (where monks have their lodging and boarding),
and a dharmashala (where travellers and pilgrims get a lodging
place). The first moilastery in Tibet was built between A.D. 823-835
at Samye (about 30 miles south-east of Lhasa) on the inodel of
IJdantapuri University a t Bihar Shariti, 6 miles from Nalanda or
on the model of Nalailda itself. Bigger monasteries also serve the
purpose of schools and Universities and are big educational centres.
(1) Depung (rice-heap) Vihara is situated two iniles west of Lhasa and
was founded by the great reformer Chonkhapa in the year 1416. This
was constructed on t he model of Shree Dhanyakataka University,
situated near the Alnaravati St upa on the bank of the river Krishna.
The traditioilal number of monks in this monastery is 7,700 though
there are actually 10,000 monks a t present. This is the biggest
residential Uiliversity and monastery in the world. (2) Sera Monas-
tery is two iniles north of Lhasa and was founded in 1419. The
traditional nuinber of monks in this monastery is 5,600 though there
are actually mo ~ $ t han 7,000 in i t , This is the secoild biggest monas-
tery in the world. (3) Ganden Moilastery is about 35 miles east of
Lhasa and was founded by Chonkhapa himself in 1401. These three
gompas are said t o be the three pillars of Tibet. (4) Tashi-Lhtlnpo
was founded a t Slligartse in 1447. The traditional number of monks
in Canden and Tashi-Lhunpo is 3,300 each, though actually over
4,000 inotlks live in each. (5) Sakya Monastery, founded in 1073,
(6) Derge ~ b n a s t e r ~ founded in 1648 in Eastern Tibet, (7) Kum-bum
Monastery founded in 1578 near t he lake Koko Nor, (8) Dekung
Motlastcry situated I00 niiles north-east of Lhasa, (9) Sa~nye Vihar
folltlded in 82.3-835, south-east of T4hasa, on the left hank of the
Brahmaputra, and (10) Nethang founded in 1213, south-west of
Shigartse, co~ltaiii over 3,000 monks e'nch. Besides these, there are
several Inore monasteries, like Reting with more than 1,000inoilksineach.
68 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
Elementary education is generally imparted t o monks in almost all
the monasteries of Tibet. One has t o go for higher education to some
of these big Universities near Lhasa as there are no big educational
centres in Western Tibet (Ngari). Besides religious education
grammar, literature, medicine, image-making, engraving, painting,
printing, etc. are also taught. The Nalanda-school of casting bronze
images and other bronze casts has been, up t o day, faithfully pre-
served in Tibet. Degre, Lhasa, and Tashi-Lhunpo are the biggest
centres of bronzes, though one can get bronze images and bronze
models of Buddhistic gods and goddesses, monks, stupas, etc. in almost
every monastery in Tibet, Nepal, Bhutan, and Rampur Bushahr
State. All these Universities and monasteries are residential and
are maintained, by big landed properties attached t o them, by public
charity, and also by the tracle and banking business conducted by
sonie of the business-minded monks in them. Out of the total
strength of the Universities only half the number are regular students
and the rest of t he monks are servants, conductors, managers, trades-
men etc. Students from different places like Rampur Bushahr State,
I,adakh, Bhutan, Sikkim, Southern Russia and Siberia, and China
go t o these no ti as tic Universities for study. Almost a11 of them
are niotiks. There are two Colleges near I,has2, one for Medicine and
t he other for Astrology.
Monks are of two orders : lamas or superior order of monks and
dabus or ordinary monks. I t is after studying for several years both
religious aiid ritual texts t hat one is made a lama. There are differ-
ent orders, high, middle arid low amongst lamas also. All' moriks
including lamas indulge in drinking and meat-eating. Tibetans, it1
general, have no religious bigotry though they are \:Fry superstitious
and their monasteries can be visited by people of any sect or religion.
All the monasteries of Western Tibet' were built after the ninth century.
Damarzts, conches, drums, cymbals, bells, clarinets, flutes, pipes
of human bones, and some other musical instrume:lts, dorjes (thunder-
bolts), human skulls, several cups of water and barley, incense, butter-
lamps, chhang, tsampa, meat, butter, cakes, and many other things
are used in the worship of deities in the monasteries. Kow and then
big yanlras or mandalasa are drawn and images of tsamfia and butter
in several colours are made, of different tutelary deities (vidam) and
elaborate p~cjas are conducted from 3 t o 30 days mostly according
t o lan(rik rites. On the last day of the worship a hig havan (fire-
oblation) is performed. Several ~vater-colour paintings called
1 SOR Appendix V.
2 A mandala or yanl rn
ia n 1nynt.i~ c.irclc., gc.omct,ricnlly tliviclrcl into c.irc.lca*, 4C(llRrC@
and rhorda, i n whicsh are pnint,rtl ~omc. rry~nhc,ls, clriticr, nncl 0ijnknhnrn.v (Ipt,t,pr~!
tliankus or banner paiiitings are hung in the image and library halls
and other rooms. The paiiltiiigs represent deities, lamas, scenes,
~rantvas, etc. arid have silk borders aiid veils over them t o protect
them froin being damaged.
Tibet owes a great deal t o India
for
the developmelit of her culture-religion, civilization, learning, paint-
ing, and other arts and crafts. Tibetans possess a good sense of artistic
taste ; there is no house which does not possess atleast one painting, an
artistic folding table, and a few silver-plated cups.
Library
The two great Tibetan works in tlie shelves of a Tibetaii library
are Kanj~tv (or Kangyur-translations of 1,ord Buddha' s actual utter-
ances) in 108 volumes and Tanjur ( or Tagyur-translation of
shnstras) in about 235 volumes. The latter work coiliprises of different
Schools of Philosophy, Kavj~as, Gramniar, Astrology, Astronomy,
Devata-Sadhuna, Tantras and Mantras, besides the commentaries on
several books of Icanjur and Tibetan translations of the Chinese
renderings of the original Sanskrit works. Tanjur also contains the
traiislatioils of several otlier Sanskrit works, whose originals have
been for ever lost in the bonfires of the various ruthless Mohammedan
invaders and kings. It also contains the lost works of the great
astronomer Aryadevn, Dingnaga, Dharinarakshita, Chandrakirti,
Shaiitarakshita, a i d the lost works of Kamalasila ; Vadanyajla fika
of the great Grainmarial1 Chalidragoumi, C'handra Vyakavana, Sutra,
Dlcat~c, Unadi-path, Vrilti, l'ika, Panchaka etc. ; Lokananda Nataka,
severak lost works of Ashvaghosha, Matichitra, Haribhadra, Aryasura,
and others ; Kalidasa's n4eghaduta ; and some works of Dandi, Har-
shavardhana, Kshen~endra, and other great poets. The liledical
works of ~ s l z t a ~ ~ a - ~ r i d ~ ~ a of Kagarjuna, of Shilihotra, and others
with coiilnlei~taries a i ~ d glossaries ; and the translations of some
Hitidi books ; and also of some of the letters of Matichitra t o the
Emperor Kanishka, of Yogishxvara Jagadratna t o Maharaja Cliandra-
gupta, and the l&ters of 1)ipankar Shreejnana t o Raja Nayapala
(of Pala 1)ynasty) are ill tlic volunies of Tnnjui,. Besides these two
voluminous, collectioiis of works the lives of Nagarjuna, Aryadeva,
Asanga, Vasul,andliu, Shnutaraksl~ita, Chandrakirti, Dharmakirti,
Chandragounii, Kamalashila, Shila, Dipankar Shreejnana and other
Indian Buddhist Yandits are also written in Tibetan language.'
People speak Tibetaii which varies from district t o district. Wl ~ c t ~
Buddhism was it~troducecl iiito Tibet clyriiig the time of King Sroi~gcliei~
it1 about the year A. 1). 641, a t his order, his minister Thoi~nii
invented, for the then spoken language, character on the model of the
then Kashmiri Sharada alphabets, in order t o translate Pali and
Sanskrit, Buddhist and other works illto Tibetan. There are five
vowels and thirty consonants in Tibetan language. Thonnli wrote the
first grammar of the Tibetan language ; nearly half the number of
letters written are silent, i.e. not pronounced ; and necessary modifica-
tions have been made so as t o include the sounds peculiar to Tibetan
and Sanskrit languages. Before the time of Thonmi writing was
unknown in Tibet.
In the beginning of the fourteenth century Rinchhen Dub col-
lected all the translations of Buddha's works under the title Kanjur
and all the Shastras under the title Tanjur. It was in the year 1728 (?)
t hat the Kanjc~r and T a n j ~ ~ r were printed for the first time during
the regime of the seventh Dalai Lama, from Nyathang Gompa which
was founded in 1213. Later, a second edition of the same works,
with an additional volume in Kanjur, was published from Derge
Gompa. But according t o another version i t was in the middle of
the seventeenth century, the period of the fifth Dalai Lama, that
these works were printed. Whole pages of books are engraved on
woocien blocks and printed. But the blocks of Derge edition are of
bronze, as such the print of this edition is clearer than that of Nya-
thang since the wooden blocks are subject t o greater wear and tear.
The author was informed by a Tibetan friend of his t hat blocks for a
new edition of Kanjur had been prepared a t Lhasa by the thirteenth
Dalai Lama. Books are printed on country-made paper of three
qualities : common, superior, and superfine. Books produced in
the superfine or de luxe edition have thick strong paper and the letters
are printed in gold. If the two works of Kanjur and Tanjrcr were tobe
retranslated into Sanskrit, i t would come t o about 20 Pakhs of shlolzas.
Calendar
About the year 1027 Pandit Sonlnath of Kashrnir translated the
' Knllz Cttnkra Jyolisha ' into Tibetan and introduced the ~rihaspali
cycle of sixty years called Prabhava, etc. (Rabyzcng in Tihetan).
This cycle of sixty years is divided into five sub-cycles of twelve
years each. In the seventh year (Ta-lo or Horse-year) of each of
these sub-cycles, i .e. once in twelve years) a big fare is held near ICailas
at Sershtlng. The Kumbha Mela of India, which occurs once in
12 years has nothing to do with this fair, as several people confound.
According to Tibetan scriptules, a round made t o the Holy ICailas
and Manasarovar during the Ta-lo is considered as virtt~ous as
thirteen rounds made during other years. Mnrgasirshn Shflklfi
Prafi padn (December 14 in 19.76) is ol~served as New Year's Day oll
RE L I GI ON 6 1
thesouthern shores of Manasarovar, as in the days of Mahabharata, and
this may be of interest to the Indian astronomer. Tibetans of t hat
region say that the sun begins his northward journey from t hat day.
Pazcshya Shukla Pratipada (January 13 in 1937) is observed as New
Year's Day on the eastern side of the Manas (Horba) and Magha
Shztkla Pralipada (February 12 in 1937) is the official New Year's Day
throughout Tibet. Special pajas and services are coilducted in the
monasteries on the New Year's Day, and feastings and merry-making
take place for 10 to 15 days, in which monks and householders, both
men and women, freely partake.
The third day of the bright half of a lunar month, dedicated t o
Padmasambhava or Guru Rinpochhe, the eighth day dedicated t o
Devi, the full moon day dedicated to Lord Buddha, and the new
rnooli day, are the days in each lunar month, on which special @ujas
are performed in the monasteries, besides some other days which
differ from place to place. Tibetans know very little of arithmetic
excepting counting, so much so, for higher 'countit~g and accounting,
eve11 high officials use onty the beads of a rosary which every one
invariably carries with him or her, or use small pebbles, splinters
of ulood, seeds of apricot aiid date, and broke11 pieces of porcelain.
01n ma ni pa dlne hz~irz is the most popular and most sacred ~izanlra'
of the Tibetans, which is ever on the lips of men, women, children,
monks, householders, and all. They always repeat this ma?ztra
while sitting, walking, or travelling. Even the ordinary Tibetail
.repeats this jtzavttra for a greater number of tiilles than a most
orthodox Brahmin does his Gayatri Japa in India. It is said t hat this
fnanlra has been invetited by Avalokiteshvara by the grace of his
divine father, the effulgent Amitabha Buddha ; aiid as such it is an
illvocation of , the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara himself. fifafii
symbolizes Pzrruslza or the spiritual element, and Padma (lotus)
symbolizes Slzahti 'or the material. Om is the usual prefix of every
mantra and ' hunz ' is the tatztrik suffix ; so the t~iuntra ineans ' Oh !
Jewel (of Cr,catioii) is in the Lotus!' The letter hri is very oftelladded
to i t ; lzri being the abbreviatioll of hridaya or heart, i t iinplies t hat
this mantra is to be meditated up011 ill the Heart-Lotus. As in Tan-
tvik schools, Tibetans assign certain colours to each letter of the
mantra and they believe t hat the utterance of this six-syllabled
formula exti~lguishes rebirth in the six worlds of gods, men, titans,
al~itiials, hells, alicl it~feriial hells, and secures Nirvn~za. 'l'he cotours of
the letters are white, blue, yellow, green, red, and black respectively.
Hri is also said t o be white.
? ,
1 he ~t~czrzi-n~atztra is i~iscril~ed, enll~ossetl, or I)ailltetl on walls, rocks,
stones, slabs, caves, tno~lasteries, on horns, bones, flags, and o t ~ any-
thing. The ~nnntra is engravecl on rouncl stones or slabs which are
kept on walls at the entrance of villages, on the tops of passes, at
can~pi ng grounds, on the way t o holy 1~laces and mollasteries, at
spots kvherefrom some holy place is seen, and at arly important place.
* 1
l he rtznntrn is writtell several times on slips of paper which are kept
it1 a ma l l brass, copper, or silver cylinder with a handle. The prayer
wheel, cylinder or mill (lzorlo) is turned roulld and round in the clock-
ni5e directioo hy monks, beggars, men, wonlen, all. 01ie round
of the ~vl ~eel is believed to he productive of as ~nuch virtue as the
repetition of the rrcanlrn as many times as it is written on the slips
it1 the cylinder. Several such ~rtnni-cylinders of tlifferel~t sizes are
set up at the gates and inside the monasteries, a l ~ d are turned round
1)y pilgritn5 when they visit them. Thc author saw sonle such big
rnnrlr-cylin(1ers ill T,adakh, drive11 hy \~:kter-po\ver, like pan-c~c~kkis
(water-tnills). They contain slips of paper, OI I whic!~ tlie 1uaftt-
r~rtrrrltfl is writtell a lakh, a million, or eve11 tell n~i l l i ol ~ ti~nes.
Slrrrhrlr rrg ( , n r t r ~l l
Just above the Taklakot Mandi, situated the top of a hill, over-
1ooki11~ the mandl ;ind the 'neighbnuring villages :,lid t l ~ e ~a r na l i
\\it11 its feeden, is tlic famous 1,amasery Siml,iling, the 1)iqgest lllolla+
f p t ! . of tllk Keginn I t has ahotlt qi x brallcll nlnll;,.;terir~ ; ~ t Siddi-
hh.11. 011 SIdna:.dtc,l. a r , .tnrl .it n t h ~ r pldcc, r j ~~- l , ~~l i n q t 1 1 ~ 111~111t~hei~
R E L I GI ON 6 3
it has about 170 monks of whom 6 are lamas and t he rest
dabns.
Ifhere is a regular school for the junior monks of the monastery.
I n
the inail1 image-hall of the monastery there is a big gilded image of
the Buddha about 6 feet high, seated on a high pedestal, with butter-
lamps kept burning in the front. Just before entering t he image-
hall is the general congregational hall, festooned with scroll paint-
ings ; and the walls are decorated with fine mural paintings. Once
in a year there are held general feasts, merry-making, mystic or
symbolic dances by the monks, lasting for a week or two. I n t he
symbolic dance they wear long gowns and a variety of masks of
different deities and animals. Street dramatists with a few masks
enact some dramas like Treme-Kunden ( Vishzjantara Jalaka), Chogel-
Norsang, Nyasa-Pomo, etc. both in the n~onastery conlpound and
villages. The mystic dance of Sinlbiling Monastery is called Tor-
gyak and takes place on the 28th and 29th day of the eleventh month
of the Tibetan calendar, t hat of Khochar Gompa, Namdong and
takes place on the 15th day of the first month, and of Siddikhar
Monastery, Tsege and takes place on the 2211d and 23rd of the first
month. The author had the chance of witnessing, in 1942, these
mystic plays and as well a purely tanlrik rite called Chakhar (iron
fort), held every fourth year in Simbiling, in which the blood of a
black goat put in a human skull is offered as fire-oblation (ahtcti) ; this
rite is conducted for about 20 days. When any distinguished person
visits a monastery, the moilks receive him t o the accompaniment of
the musical i nst run~e~i t s of the gompa.
There are some hundreds of Tibetan books ill the shelves of the
library rooins of the monastery, including two sets of the voluminous
works of Kanj ur and Tanj ur. There is a separate image-hall of the
Menlha (god of medicine) adjacent t o the library halls. There are niore
than 400 excellent thanhas or banner paintings and four huge silk
banners of Buadha and Maitreya each measuring 60 by 30 feet.
These are all kept 1111der lock and key by the Dazang and are taken
out for decorating the monastery on special occasions like the New
Year's Day.
Simbiling Gompa is affiliated t o the Depuilg Monastery of Lhasa
and as such the Labrung or the general nianagiilg body including the
Khenpo or the abbot comes from t hat nlonastery appointed for a
period of three years. This nlo~iastery has three more local
marlagiiig bodies all elected froill amongst the nloiiks of the gompa,
the first t wo being for a period of three years. The first is the Dazang
Or the general managing hody which is in charge of the whole property
of the goinpa ; tlie second is the Nyarchang or the kitchen managing
body including the Maj i n or the head cook ; and the third is the
Chongpon or the trading body, which is elected annually. The Gckqd, a
64 K A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
monk with magisterial powers, who looks t o the discipline of the
monks, and the Unje or t he Pujari are also elected annually.
Adjacent t o this gompa, situated on t he west, is a branch of the
Sakya Monastery.
Khochav Go??zpa
Situated on t he left bank of t he river Karnali is t he famous Kho-
char or Khocharnath Gompa, a t a distance of about 12 miles south-
east of Taklakot Mandi. It is also called Khechari Tirtha by some
Hindus. Pilgrims visit this place all the year round. Deepnnkara
Shreejnana had spent a rainy season here in the year 1034.
Khochar is one of the most interesting monasteries in Western
Tibet. There is an interesting story in the Khochnr Karchhak
regarding Khochar. Seven Acharyas from India once took seven
loads of silver t o Kardtlng and deposited it with Jambyang Thakpa,
the then King of the place and went away saying t hat they would
return in seven years. But they did not t urn up even after nine
years. So, the King gave the silver t o two silver-smiths-one a
Nepali by name Ashadharma and t he other a Mohammedan by name
Vankulla and ordered them t o make a divine idol out of it. Accord-
ingly the smiths melted the whole silver t o mould i t into an idol but
suddenly there sprang up a big image of Jalnbyang out of it on its
own accord (Svayaw~bhcc) out of t he molten silver.
A lama and his disciple were staying on the sandy banks of the
Karnali where the present Khochar Gompa stands. Every night
the disciple used t o see a light on the sand, when he would go to
fetch water, though he would see nothing in the daytime there.
One day the lama asked his disciplf: t o pile up a heap of stones at the
place where he saw the light, and the disciple did accordingly. To
his great surprise, the heap of stones became a big, boulder by next
morning. The lama said t hat t hat light was the spirit of Jambyallg.
Having heard of the Svnyawzbhu (self-formed)" idol of Jambyange
the King of Kardung ordered t hat the idol should be brought to
Kardung t o be installed in a temple. Accordingly the image was
put in a two-horsed carriage and was being taken towards Kardung.
When the carriage reached the big boulder above described, the
spirit of Jambyang entered the idol and i t was stuck up 011 the haul-
der, and said ' Khor-chhnk - I have come here ancl stay here only ' *
This is the first utterance of t he idol.
Then a gompa was constructed for the image by the King. When
the King was thinking of getting a pedestal made for the idol, it spoke
out a second time, ' Let nobody-man, beast, bird, or insect--enter
the gompa for seven days '. Accordingly, the monastery gu.tes were
AIL~TIIA(.~ OF M1LKAl;bh BKTI\k;EA l ~l l ' l ~l ~' l ' : \ h' l l ' l . ~~l ' l ~. h I N h.hIl <Ah KIl:\Nl),\ ,\XI, hKI,.\l: ~II.{>IB! P a l wr ~ c rr 1-l: Sur vt r ., l ~ r l l n Orrl crs ,p
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R E L I G I O N 66
closed; but on the fifth day, the Konyer (keeper of idols or the assistant
Pujari), irl his anxiety t o see if the lamps inside were burning or not,
opened the doors. He saw the divine smiths t hat were working out the
pedestal or Simhasana, had entered the image and the pedestal was left
incomplete. The design of the pedestal is given herein. Later
on, Vishvakarma, the divine architect, made the silver idols of Chhagna-
dorje and Chenresig.
The idol spoke for a third time, ' If the Map chhu rises, i t comes
near the monastery and I will be taken away by the waters; so keep
the image of Jechun Doma (Tara) facing the river. If anybody
makes an embankment his sins of 500 lives shall be washed away ;
if any one feeds the workmen, the sins of 10 lives shall be washed
away ; and if one puts, even a small stone as big as a thumb, onthe
embankment with a pure heart, the sins of one life will be washed
away. '
Once some soldiers entered the gompa and stabbed on the
thigh of the idol wherefrom milk came out. The idol spoke a fourth
time, ' Oh great sinner ! ' Whereupon all the soldiers went out of
the temple, but the one who had actually stabbed the idol died at
the temple gate by vomitting blood.
The King of the southern region had two Queens but no sons. They
did all sorts of pujas but in vain.
The image spoke for the fifth tiine,
' Come here, Queens, do three prostration-salutes t o me, you will
have three sons '. The Queens did so and later, they had three sons.
One great lama by name Chang-nyun came here, when, the image
spoke out for the sixth time, ' Remove the paper-bird from my back
which has been placed by some Ngakpa (black magician) '. A Ngakpa
usually draws the picture of a bird and some other formula on a
paper and performs some incantitions and rites and puts i t in the
wall of a house. After a period of 7, 9, or 21 years depending upon
the strength of incantations, the bird comes to life and flies away
and the persoil or idol concerned breaks t o pieces. Such an incanta-
tion paper was kept behind the idol of Jambyang. The lama, Chang-
nYun, took out the paper-bird which was just fluttering and threw
it in fire with tongs. Wllen ~~ai l ~un- Zi ngba- N~i r bu, the lama
Gho has cons'.,rocted the existilig Gossul Gompa, went t o Khochar.
the idol of Jambyallg spoke for the seventh time, ' The flower ill my
hand has been taken away by a soldier. It will be good if you cmi
replace it '. The old-silver flower studded with a cat's eye, (V(li-
durya) in the mid(le, was replaced by the lama.
The gold lam11
front of the iinage was presellted to the gompa by the same lama.
It is believed by Tibetans t hat the image of Jambyang would speak
Out six times more after wllich the world would see the day of
resurrection.
6 6 K A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
I n the ri~rzlajzg or image-hall there are three beautiful images of
three of t he most important Bodhisattvns, made of silver, standing
on an artistically designed pedestal or a bracket about 5 feet high. The
images are placed on big lotuses. The Simhasana including the
lotuses are made of Ashta-dhatus or eight metals. The middle image
Janzhj-?lnng (Manjughosha) is about 8 feet high and its face is yellow.
On its right is t he idol of Chenresig (Avalokiteshvara) 7 feet high
and i t s face is white ; and on the left is t he idol of Chlzagnadorjt
(Vajrapani) 'i feet high and its face is of blue complexion. These three
images are erroneously described as and believed by many credulous
people t o be those of Rama, I,akshmana, ancl Seeta. It is interesti~ig
t o note t hat a11 the three images are of male deities ! On either side
of tliese images are twelve images, each about five feet in height,
kept ill almirahs, six on either side. Of these, eight are the images
of Neve-se-gye, three are the duplicates of Khochar images, and one
of Khasarpani.
LI ON
(SEMGE) l
PEACOCK
(MAPCHA)
4 LI ON
(SENGE)
PWCOCK
(MAPC MA)
0 . 0 0 0 . .
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
The Bracket in Khochar Gonipa .
1. TA:~ngpovl\hr (Imr.nln or t,ho relcntial elephant.), 2. 1,onpo ( Kwl ~ r n or t, lirdivi~irtrra~llrt. ~)!
3. (' llhl~lirnn ( I f f l ~t i or t,ho royal ronnclrt), 4. Knrl o (/'hnk,.n ort hewl l ecl of life), 6. N o r h (Mnn'
or thc- 11r(>cii)us ~ t i ~ n r ) , 8, AIngpon (the tlivinc wnr.grnrr:ll, Knr l i k~yn) , ant1 7. 'l'nchhok
( I ' r / ~hr t ; . ~hr n~~~l r f l or t, hr tlivinc! homr). Thrne a r r c,allerl l l i nrhhcn-nu-drrn ( ~ r v e n arm* or Pr'
( - i e) l l 8 t , hi n~- ) :~.nrl a r r hr~lcl sar r cd by Tihr-tan*. S h ~ . n ~ - n h n n g art? , nyml ) h~ wit,h t,hn body
w-r)ln:Ln n l ~ d Irgn of R kit.". Gnho anel .Tokpo nr r nnn. kr, -nylnph~ ( , ~f l ~f l . kon~/ ~z kf l ~) with hllmnn
I)rbflitxs :~.n(l ~ n n k y I OWP ~ pa.rt,n nnd wi t h nrvrn-hoodrd R ~ R ~ P R over t-heir hrndn).
St : ~ncl i ng on t,lir per l r ~t nl t here i * an ar ch ovr r t ho imngc:~, on ri t , hrr sitlc of which nw
v:lrrl-fl t , h ~ irnn.gcsn of ( i ) Lnngportiho (el ephant ), (ii) Svngt. (lion), (iii) Knt, nsrr, (i v) hlfi (mnn),
( v ) ( ' l l hl l - g( : ~~g~ c'ro('orIilo). nntl (vi ) Shang-nhnng ; nntl ( I hhn- r hh~i ng on t he top, in rill I R
itnngvs.
R E L I G I O N (j 7
The inlages and the pedestal are of South Indian patter11 a i d
were prepared by the Nepalese sculptors.
I n 1899 a big fire broke
out in Khocharnath Gompa and destroyed the two side-images-
Avalokiteshvara and Vajrapaiii. Later they were prepared by
Tibetan and Nepalese sculptors. Another tradition says t hat all
the three images along with the pedestal were brought t o this nionas-
tery from Lanka or Ceylon.
There are several cups of water and butter-lamps made of gold
and silver and are artistically arranged in front of t he images. There
are two big and fierce-looking images each about 8 feet high a t the
entrance gate of the monastery. The image t hat is on the left hand
side is that of Tamdin, t he fierce form of Avalokiteshvara and t hat
on the right is of Chhagdor, the fierce form of Anlitabha Buddha.
Just after entering the duvang, there are four images of the guar-
dian deities of the four quarters six feet high, two on each side. On
either side of the image-hall are the shelves containing the volulllcs
of Kanjur, kept in perfect order. There are 30 dabas and a T~llkcc
lama in this monastery. By the side of the main gonipa there is a
mani-khang, a house in which is installed a huge nzani-cylinder.
There is a big hall in the second building of the monastery where
inystic dances called Narndon,g and annual feasts are held. I n t he
hall is hung a stuffed wild yak and an Indian tiger on one side.
There are also the images of Charnba (Maitreya, the coming Buddha),
Mahaala and Mahakali, Sange-Pavo- Rapdzctz, aiid Y ILUL-Chhanzo-
Chhok-Chu-Sange, placed in different rooms. Tliere is a big ~tzcini-
cylinder 10 feet high and 5 feet in diameter.
The sitting image of Maitreya is about 22 feet in height.
Due t o
its gigantic appearance, Indian pilgriiils wrongly identify it wit11
that of Bhinlasen of Malzabhavata fgme. Sal-lge- Pavo-Rnpdzl~z (Bucldha-
hero-seven) are t he images of the seven Buddhas sitting in different
nllbdras (postures)-Gautama Buddha, Maitreya Buddha, Kashya1)a
Buddha, Ainitab'ha Buddha, and others. Igiiora~lt Hindu pilgrinls
think theill t o be *those of Sabta Rishis-Agastya and others.
Yum-Chharno-~hl zok-~ht t -sange (Mother-great-directions-ten-sages) are
eleve11 images sitting in different postures. The iniddle one is t hat
~f the great Mother Devi Prajnaparatliita and the five i~nngcs 011
either sid; are those of tell quarters (four quarters, four corners,
and lle$herland), but ,lot of the eleven Rfcdvns as is erroneously
believed by Hindu pilgrims. There are fine frescos ill this image-
hall, sonle of which are getting daniaged d ~i e t o rain-water lenkillg
inside. The rooill +is very dark alld so; very few visitors are aware
these valuable paintings.
A great service would be done t o tile
c"lse of art if any visitor could take a series of these lxiiiltii~gs tllltler
Bash-light. In the ul,per storey of the building tlierc is the illiage-
hall of Jechun Doma (White Tara) in which there are the volumes
of Kanjztr. The 21 Avataras of Devi are depicted on the walls of
the hall. Adjacent to this hall is the Tanjur Library Hall.
On the back of the gompa, situated in the midst of mani-
walls on the bank of the Karnali, is the gaddi of the great Lochava
(translator) Rinchhen-Zangbo, where he delivered sermons for twelve
years. There are several houses and donkhangs (Tibetan dharma-
slzalas) very near the gompa ; and the village itself is a little away
from it. Khochar is warmer than Taklakot, though more windy.
A little down the monastery there is a bridge on the Karnali, crossing
which, Nepal territory begins. About a mile from Khochar is Shar,
the last village in the Purang valley where pema trees (a sort of stunted
deodars) grow.
C H A P T E R IV
AGRICULTURAL AND ECONOMIC GEOGRAPHY
AGRICULTURE
THE whole valley coilsisting of about 50 villages1 including 'l'aklakot
is called Purang valley and is cultivated. Excepting the villages
in the Purang valley the whole of Kailas-Manasarovar Region is a
barren tract. Barley and pea are grown in sufficient quantities in
this valley. The fields are cultivated by water from the hill-streams
distributed into small nice channels. The channels are bordered
by green grass and present a pleasing appearance in the bleak and
barren country. Ploughing is done by jhabbus (cross breed of Indian
cow and Tibetan bull, the yak) or ponies since yak is not good for
ploughing though useful for carrying heavy loads. It is said t hat
agriculture was introduced into Tibet in the beginning of the Christ-
ian era during the reign of the king Pude-kur-Gyal. King Srong-
chen Gampo (630-698) introduced the earthen pot, the water-mill, and
the handloom. There are water-mills (pan-chakkis) for grinding barley,
in some of the villages of the valley wherever there are hill-streams
or channels taken out of them. White and red mustard, turnip,
and radish are also grown sparsely here and there. Since the year
1940 the cultivation of potato is being experimented at Khocharnath.
F
FAUNA
Wild yak (dong), wild horse or ass (kyang), snow-leopard (then)
(this kills even horses), leopard (jih), lynx (yi) (this kills sheep and
goat and drinks only blood, its skin varies in colour from pale brown
or yellow to silvery white), browtm bear (te), black bear (tom), man-
bear (me-te) (walks on hind legs like man), the great Tibetan sheep
(nyan) (Ovis Ammo11 or Hodgsoni), bharal or blue sheep (nu) (Ovis
Nahaura), ghz~ril or Tibetan gazelle (goa) (Gazelle picticaudeta)
(white near tlie alms, lltters ' rrzya ' like goat), Tibetan antelope
(tho) (1)anthilops Antelope or ~odgsoni ) (long horns), barahsingi
(shya), deer (gya-ra) , wolf (changzr) , fox (haje) , hare (regogzg) , marmot
Mhiya), rqt (sivi), tail-less rat (abva), and lizard are the wild fauna of
Manasa ~11al:ddn. (selzgc) is said to be seen near Kailas ollly
by the sagRs ; so it is only a nlythological creation. ~usk- deer (la)
is very rarely found in Manasa Region near Nepal borders, but it is
abundantly found in other parts of Tibet. As a matter of fact musk
is one of the chief,. colllmodities which' Tibet exports t o China and
India. 1:ish is foulld ill ,?bulldance in Manasarovar and Rakshas Tal
and some rivers, but Tibetans do not eat fish and birds. Serpent and
scorpion are not seen here.
The marmots remain in hybernation
in their holes under several feet of snow for 3 t o 4 months in winter.
It is perhaps by observing these marmots and frogs t hat yogis evolved
Khechari Mudra, in which they remain for days together in Samadhi
(trance) without any signs of external growth or decay. The fat
and skills of these marmots are considered very effective for rheuma-
tism, which is very common in these cold regions.
Musk-deer' (Moschus moschiferus) is chiefly an inhabitant of the
Himalayas, Tibet, and Central Asia. It lives at heights ranging
between 8,000 and 12,000 feet. It is about two feet high and three
feet long. Musk-deer is the only hornless species. It s ears are
long, has two upper canine teeth three inches long, hoofs narrow
and pointed, lateral hoofs greatly developed so as to rest on the
ground, tail rudimentary, colour brownish-grey, varying in shades,
and hairs thick, brittle, pith-like and yet soft and springy to the
touch. The so-called Kasturi-ha-nabha is a gland or pouch of the
size of a lemon, situated at the root of the penis, a little behind the
umbilical knot and is found only in males. As is generally believed
musk-pod, musk-pouch, or Kastt~ri-lza-nabhn, is in fact not nabha
(umbilical knot) or its secretion. The quantity of musk contained
in a musk-pod varies from 4 t o 2$ tolas. Musk is dark-purplish or
brownish in colour and unctuous t o touch. It has a remarkable
permanence and stability of odotlr. I t s scent is most peiletratillg
and persistent and hence its importance for perfuming purposes.
Very often musk is highly adulteratecl by the sellers taking advan-
tage of this characteristic feature. Tlie price of musk per tola ranges
anything from Rs. 35, which a Shikavi charges, to as much as Rs. 90,
which a consumer has to pay in plains.
Swan or bar-headed goose, br ahmi n~ duck, gull, fishing eagle, stork
or heron, vulture (thankar) , hawk (lak) , kite (chavgot) , Izoser, Izonak,
singja, two varieties of owl (ukpa) , raven (knrok) ,' red-billed and
yellow-legged chough (kyitnka) , yellow billed and yellow legged
though, pigeon (mtcgrin), chakor (talcpa), woodyecker (pht@htb-seli)l
lark, house-sparrow (khang-chil), rock-sparrow (ri-chil) , sari-lak-tak
(red), Pongpo-gyaknr (wh'te and black), knu~galinz (fotl~id near Chenla-,
yungdung) , tha (ash colour, eats sparrows), ph~cnga (hdnts pigeons),
chh~cpja, and butterfly are the avifauna2. Resides tlieqe, several
other migratory birds visit this Region it1 particular seasons. 011 the
shores of the Maiiasarovar and Rakslias Tal swarnis of harmless and
I Tho authr~r htts henn contll~rtinp; intrrrating rrw:~rchw rcgnrding ' JIrluk tinfl 311l"lf.
clror ' b)r tho litst twrlvn Y P RT ~ , and ir c..cprct,r,l tt) c.otlc.l~ttlr hi^ work t)y the cntl of this
yrrlr whon wt! I~opr to [11111liqh R full r ~por t on t,l~t> .s~tlijr( t - 1' 1~I dt ~hr r .
2 Appcrldix VI.
U O M E S l ' I C A N I MA L S 7 1
non-malarial variety of black mosquito are seen. When this mosquito
is killed, 8 sort of deep green substance conies out instead of blood.
~t does not sting ; so it inay interest a research studeilt of t he Tropical
School of Medicine. Like the mythological aiiiinal lion, there is a
mythological bird, red crow, which, if held in the hand, the
person holding i t becomes invisible.
DOMESTIC ANIRIALS
The chief tame aiiilnals are yak (Tibetan hairy bull), denzo ( c o ~ ~ ) ,
jkahbzr, jenzo (female), Indian cow, and bull, horse, mule, ass, sheep, and
goat. There goes a Bhotia saying t hat ' sheep, goats, and yaks are tlie
chief crop and wealtli of Tibetans '. Occasioilally once in 7 or 8
years, when the snowfall is heavy, all pasture-lands are buried under
snow for days together, and hundreds of aninlals froin the herds
have no other alternative but t o die of starvation aiicl severe cold, as all
domestic ailimals illcludiiig dogs, sheep, horses, yaks, etc. are always
kept in open coinpoul~ds without roofs, even in the severest winters.
Some people tame the cat (billa) as a pet niid hen (chhanzu) for laying
eggs; and pig is tanled in Central and Eastern Tibet. Manasa Khailda
being a pastoral country, dog plays an important role amongst the
domestic animals. There is no liousehold or t ent without a dog. It keeps
guard over tlie house and tile cattle. The Tibetan dog is very ferocious.
YSk is a great beast of burdeli and carries heavy loads even on had
roads and higher altitudes, but it cannot withstand the hot climate
and dense air of lower altitudes nor can it be used for tilling the land.
Jhabbu, on the other hand, call withstand hot climate and dense air
of the lower altitudes, and the cold climate and the rarified air of
higher altitudes. It is useful hot$ for ploughing tlie land and for
carrying loads. SO the Bhotias of the nlandis ill Tibet and tlie Tibe-
tans of Taklakot keep a good number of jlznbbirs. Some of the yaks
and j habb~t s witli nose-striligs are also used for riding.
0
STOCK-RAISING
t .
flbet is a, big wool-pro(1ucillg country.
'I'housands of maunds
of wool age i l ~i ~mrt ed t o India every year from the Manasarovar
Region and &her parts of Tibet. All the \voollen oiills of Northern
It~dia and , Bor nl ~a~ get the major part of their ~r ool supplies from
Tibet.
Sometinles. t11c1-e are illdents for Tibetan wool fro111 foreign
Tf the \vool protluce oi Tibet is controlled and iiiiproved
scientifically, Tibet will 1,ecome one of the finest and biggest nrool-
S u ~ ~ l ~ i n g countries of the \\rorld-market, like Switzerland. Besides
Su P~ l ~ i n g wool, the ~iiilliolls of sheel-, are the chief nieaiis of con-
veyance ill ;\ntl across the Hinialayas for carrying enormous qualitities
7 2 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
of wool, salt and borax from Tibet t o India ; and grain and mis-
cellaneous goods from India t o Tibet. Though Tibet is, purely a
Buddhist country by religion, half the diet of a Tibetan consists of
mutton. There is a Bhotia saying t hat ' sheep are the goods trains,
ponies and mules mail trains '. It is a pleasant sight to watch hun-
dreds of sheep moving slowly with double panniers of salt or grain
on their backs, going along the trails up and down the mighty Hima-
layan ranges, treading their weary way, picking up every now and
then hurriedly a blade of grass here and a mouthful there. The
approach of these laden sheep is often announced by the rising of
clouds of dust and the peculiar whistlings of the Bhotia drivers
and by the voice of the little bells tied to the necks of some of the
animals, the tinkling of which sounds and resounds along the forest-
roads. Generally the Tibetan sheep are not unloaded till they reach
the destination, for i t is a very tedious business t o load these shy
and turbulent creatures.
Cheese (called chhura in Tibetan), butter, mill<, and other dairy
products of the Senge Khambab region are considered to be the
best in the whole of Tibet. There are thousands of yaks and dentos
(Tibetan bulls and cows) and millions of sheep and goats in Tibet.
Good dairy farms can be started on up-to-date scientific lines with
great profit and advantage, as Tibet is mainly a pastoral country
where the chief occupation of the people is cattle-breeding. Crude
Tibetan cheese can be had at the rate of four annas per pound and
butter at the rate of two rupees per pound. Butter is very badly
stored in raw sheep-skins. Thousands of sheep-rather huge masses
of sheep-can be seen moving and grazing on the shores and slopes of
Manasarovar, spread over &iles.
There is an interesting way of inilking goats. They are made to
stand in pairs facing each other neck to neck and are tied together.
Then the milking goes on by drawing out the teat ofethe animal once
or twice and the process goes on a number of times, for they cannot
be milked at a stretch since they draw the milk in the udder after
taking one or two jets. When they are fully milked, the loosely
knotted rope is drawn out and the animals go out leaping and
jumping hither and thither.
TRADE AND MARTS
There are several mandis or marts of Bhotia' merchants ill Wester11
Tibet, most of which are situated in the Kailas-Mayas Region. These
I Indinn borderland of North Almora, North Gnrhwal. Nort,h Tehri otr. i~ rallrd Rhot.
People of Bhnt are ralled Bhotina. Rhot and Hhoti n~ drnrri1,rd in thia book ~hor ~l d not he
rnnfiicrrrl with Rhlrtan State or the Rhritnneso. Tihrt0,n~ arr rallctl I l vni yn. ~ by the RhoLin~~
48. The author iu Tibeten Caetume~
[ 8ee P. 93
T R A D E AND MA R T S 7 3
rnandis are held for periods ranging from a fortnight t o five months.
Gyanima Mandi (also known as Kharko) of Johar Bhotias, Chhakra
Mandi (al'so known as Gyanima Chhakra) of Darma Bhotias, Tak-
lakot Mandi (also known as Pilithanka) of Chaudans and Byans
Bhotias, Nabra Mandi of Niti Bhotias, and Gukung Mandi of the
Nepalese are the biggest. Tarchhen (Kailas) and Thokar (or Thu-
golho-Manasarovar), and Gartok Mandis come next in order, of which
the first two are big wool-shearing centres. Puling, Tuling, 1,ama-
Chhorten, Silti, and Dayul-Chhongra Mandis are still smaller. Gya-
nima is the biggest of the mandis in Western Tibet where a brisk
transaction of about 25 lakhs of rupees is done annually. I n almost
all these mandis wool, coarse Tibetan blankets, sheep, ponies, mules,
yaks, jhabbzu, borax, salt, hides, etc. are either sold for cash or
exchanged for the commodities of the Indian merchants namely piece-
goods, gur (jaggery), barley, wheat, rice, utensils, Chinese tea, etc.
All the commodities which are available in Indian markets are
procurable here. Shepherds from not less than thirty regioilsl come
to Taklakot for trade.
Tibetans, both men, women and children, take to spinning at all
spare times and weaving is done solely by women. Finer variety
of woollens are not produced in the Manas Region, as in other parts
of Tibet. Every Tibetan be he a householder or a monk, does some
sort ?f business by way of selling and buying.
Mahatma Gandhi is considered by some monks t o be the incarilation
of the great Tantrik teacher Guru Padmasambhava.
He is called
Gandhi Maharaja by Tibetans. A coarse type of hand-woven white
cloth sold in the maildis is called '. Gandhi-khaddar '.
There are marauders and freebooters of nomadic tribes everywhere
ill Tibet. They are shepherds wanflering from place to place with their
sheep, ponies, yaks, kith and kin, and some of them move towards Kailas
and Manasarovar also for trade and pilgrimage between the months of
May and October. Since no restriction is imposed by the Tibetan
Government as regArds possessing arms, these ilomads carry swords,
daggers, old Tibetan matchlock guns, Russian and Gerinan pistols,
revolvers and rifles with plenty of gunpowder and cartridges.
When
they corn? across any unarmed traders or pilgrims they loot them
and make good their escape illto some ravines or to some distant;
places. Th2 Tibetan ~over i ~ment make no adequate arrangeme~it
to arrest thenl, nor the Indian Goverilment give ally protection against
1. Her-Tonln, 2. Hor-Tnlill~, 3. Her-Toshsr, 4. Hor-Trtngriyn, 6. To ~l ~nr , 6. Rnndm,
7. Bongbn, 8. ~h\ l ngl , i l - d; j i n, 9. Diji, 10. Songkor~, 11. Sol i - ph~~k, 12. Gerkr, 13. Cbuk-
"l an~, 14- Yagrn-ngingl,n, 16. Yngm-mema, 16. Sokche, 17. Rasm, 18. ~nrkop- Ll ~nrkep,
Ig. Hai% 20. Snkyn, 21. Nakrl~nnp, 22. Ngtlbri, 23. Roksl~o, 24. Bol ~t ~o, 26. Marltnn~,
28. I~hn~n-Sllignrt,so (Htrdpng), 27. I<hnn~, 28. Amdo, 29. Limi, 30. Rongbn, 31. Jurnli,
32. Hor.Qyevn, otr.
10
74 KAI I , AS - M A N A S A R O V A R
these freebooters through the Trade Agent.
This unhappy menace
reached its climax in 1947, when scores of Indian traders and poor
pilgrims were looted by Tibetan brigands ; and one sadhu was shot
dead for not surrendering his belongings.
CURIOS OF RlANASA KHANDA
The following is a list of articles t hat could be secured from
this Region, and the visitor can make a choice according to
his taste. (1) Full-skin of snow-leopard (chen).
(2) Full-skin of lynx
(yi), these cost anything between 20 and 50 rupees each. (3) Pull-skin
of fox (haje), costs 2 t o 6 rupees and is used for caps. (4) Lamb-skins
(charu) used for making waistcoats and overcoats, each costs a
rupee. (5) Bzcngchar or bigger lamb-skins, used for making asanas.
(6) Sheep-skin, (7) Goat-skin, (8) Skin of a goa (Tibetan wild goat),
costs a rupee each. (9) Chutka, heavy Tibetan rug, woolly on one side,
costs 15 t o 45 rupees. (10) Thulma, finer type of rug, prepared in
Johar, costs 20 t o 40 rupees. (11) Pankhi or chadar. (12) Carpet.
(13) Thin or t,hick rope made of yak-hair, costs up to a rupee and
a half. (1 4) Y ak-tail or chamar-punch. (1 5) Zaharmora-stone or
serpentine. (16) Thnneri-patthar, a soft stone, used for boils on the
breast. (17) Himaphzdi (calcite). (18) Nirbishi, a variety of aconite,
a drug used for scorpion sting etc. (19) Thuma, an aphrodisiac drug.
(20) Jimbzt, dried Tibetan onion leaves for seasoning purfoses.
(21) Silver stand and lid for tea-cup. (22) Wooden tea-cup, silvered
inside. (23) Tibetan folding table (chokse). (24) Tibetan silver spoon.
(25) Korlo, Tibetan prayer-wheel. (26) Silver talisman-casket (gau).
(27) Mani-stones. (28) Pobar, incense ladle. (29) Polang, incensory or
incense pot. (30) Tibetan tea. (31) Lhanz, Tibetan full-boot, either
for men or women. (32) Thankn, Tibetan banner-painting.
(33) Phing, Tibetan vermicelli, prepared from specially treated
pea-flour. (34) Musk. (35) Tusks of Musk-deer. (36) Kangri Kav-
chhak, Tibetan Kailasa Pzcrana, can be had either from ~ira-phuk
Gompa or Ger~gta Gompa. (37) Khochar Karchhafi or Khochar Pzrram
can be had from Khochar. (38) Bhurja-patra (bark of a birch tree)
can be had from any person either in Garbyang or Budi. (39) Tanka
and other coins. (40) Samples of thing ~ ~ t a , purzrk, ~ z ~ r mb , ~
etc.--superior varieties of woollens. On their onwarcl journey
t o Kailas, pilgrims should request some merchant at Taklakot to
get the articles of their choice ready by the time they expect to
return or they may request him t o send the goods by post to
their homes at his convenien*ce.
<.
ADMINISTRATION
DALAI LAMA
TIBET is a part of Chinese Republic and is ruled by Dalai Lama,
and a Council of Ministers acting under the advice of the Chinese
Resident. It is said t hat the first Dalai Laina was born in A.D. 1391,
while some say t hat this system came into existence in 1284. It was
the fifth Dalai Lama (1610-1681) who declared himself t o be
the Divine Incarnation of t he Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara. Since
then this system is in vogue. The thirteenth Dalai Lama died in
December 1933 and t he fourteenth Dalai Lama was born on June
1935, in Kum-bum and was installed on the throne in the Potala
Palace at Lhasa on February 22, 1040. Dalai Lama is the
political head and the Tashi Lama, whose headquarters is a t Tashi-
Lhunpo at Shigartse is the religious head. Tashi Lama is considered
to be the incarnation of Amitabha Buddha. He is more
popularly known as Panchhen Lama or Panchhen Rinpochhe.
GOVERNMENT
Western Tibet is governed by two Garpons or Uvkos (Viceroys),
one srtnior (Urko-KO& aild one junior (Urko-Yok). The summer capi-
tal is Gartok and the winter capital Gargunsa. Western Tibet is
divided into four Provillces namely, Rudok, Purang-Taklakot, Dapa,
and Chhabrang, each ill charge of a Zong or Zongpon (officer of the Fort
or Governor). A major part of t he Kailas-Manasarovar Region is
under the jurisdiction of Purang Zong and the tract west of Chhakra
Mandi is under the jurisdiction o f J ~ a D a Zong. There are about 55
Zotlgs in the whole of Tibet.
Besides these, 'there are Chhasqrs, or Tax Collectors in trade centres,
Y~lcs-Chlzon~s or G~ver nment Trade Agents or Traders, and Tasanzs,
Tarants or Tarznnts (Post-stages or conveyance offices and oficers)
who are to pronlptly supply transport-animals t o Government officials
goillg up and down. These Tasams collvey State niails also between
I:hasn a113 Gzxtok other Goverlllneilt centres. Out of the 2.5
Tflsams stationed along the Lhasa-Gartok high road seven are in the
Kailas-~a~l;<s IRegioll. Since the year 1935 or so, regular 1)ostal stanll's
l ~ v e been in use for collveyance of letters and parcels from Lhasa
to various Goverilnlent centres. A spccial officer called Shipjo or
Ka s h ~~~f i visits Western Till& once in 30 or 3.5 years for looking after
and settling all affairs of the State up t o the petty village-dispute.
He tollrs i l l the co~llltry for tlearly a year. He last visited this
Kegion in 1944-46.
16 . K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
All the above mentioned officials are appointed direct from I,hasa
for a term of three years, which may be extended by one or two more
terms in some cases. The administration of villages and wandering
tribal camps is carried on by Gopas or Gobns (headmen) and Magpons
(Patwaris) over groups of villages. Gopa is appointed every year or
every three years and Magpon is a hereditary post ; and these two
posts are held by men of the villages concerned. None of the officials
is paid by the Central Government at I,hasa ; on the contrary,
these officials have t o pay certain fixed amounts .to the Central
Government, and they have to raise this sum as well as their owl1
profit from the civil, criminal, and revenue administration of the
regions under their jurisdiction. Besides this income all officials have
their own enormous personal trade, for which they get conveyance
free of charge from the Tasams.
For simple offences the hands of the culprit are tightly
tied together with a woollen rope until they start bleeding,
he is stripped off his clothes and is awarded 40 to 300 lashes on his
buttocks and legs. For serious offences like dacoities the hands of
the offender are cut oft' at the wrists and then dipped into boiling oil in
order to prevent the wound from becoming septic ; for more serious
crimes and for political offences against the State, the accused is
brutally killed by red-hot iron rods being thrust into the temples and
by the removal of eyes, or by being hurled down from the topaof a
steep rock or hill. I n all these cases flogging precedes and it is so severe
that the culprit often succumbs t o death. I n murder cases the
culprit is not only whipped to death, but also tortured by thrusting
pins into the finger-nails, by smashing the joints with a hammer,
and by many other different ways. One murderer was put to death at
Taklakot like this in 1947. One @monk by name Serka-Mutup, who
organized an agitation to stop begnri or free-service to the monasteV,
was whipped to death by the Labrang of the Simbiling Gompa in 1943.
One turbulent Bhutanese was similarly flogged to death by the Purang
Zong in 1947. Oftentimes both the parties in a dase are heavily fined
and such fines form a great source of income to the officers. After the
judgnlelit of a case is given, both parties shall have to pay a court
fee of eight tnrlgas each. Bilboes, handcuffs, pillory, whips, ropes:
and thick leather flaps (tied to a small stick to slap on the cheek),
etc. are kept hanging at the gate of the officers.
In Tibet, only a few commodities are taxed. For every six or eight
sheep that are sheared ancl fox every six or eight sheep-loads of borax
or salt, one langa is collected as tax by the Czhhas;. There is no land-
tax ; but it is not to be understood t hat the government is liberal,
as a matter of fact the whole blood of an ordiilary peasant or shepherd
is sucked out both hv the Governnlent officers and bv the ilionks of
I N D I A N TRADE: A G G N ~ ' 7 7
by way of extracting free-service for everything and by
realizing 25 t o 100 per cent interest on tea and other goods which
are forced' on them by the officers concerned.
Over one-half of the Government posts are held by monks.
Women
are not debarred frorn holding high Governnlent positions, including
even those of Viceroys and Governors. There is pr3ctic;llly no standing
army or regular police either a t t he Viceregal centre at Gartok or
the Governors' centres, though of late effolts are being made at
Lhasa to maintain a reg~llarly-trained police and military force.
Whenever an emergency arises, men are mustered from villages,
since all Tibetans know the use of firearms.
Taklakot is the headquarters of Purang Zong and is at a distance
of 11 miles from the Lipu Lekh pass, on t he Indian border. On the
top of a hillock are the quarters of the Governor and the famous
Simbiling Monastery. There is a prison-house inside the Zong's
building, where whips, handcuffs, etc. are stored. On the narrow
plateau called Pilithanlta, situated a t the foot of the hillock, is held
a big mandi from the month of June t o October. Indinii Bhotia
merchants hold the market in walled enclosures made of stones or
sun-dried bricks. Tents are set up temporarily over the walls, since
according t o the treaty of 1904 made between the British and the
Tibetan Government, Iildians are not allowed t o construct roofed
houses in Tibet. It is high time t hat the Indian Government should
get {his bar annulled.
Trials are being made by the author for t he last ten years t o
secure the permission of the Tibetan Government for the construction
of a dharmashala on Manasarovar a t Thugolho. Though he could
not get the necessary permit as yet, he hopes t o make some sort of
arrangement with the authorities of the monastery t o complete the
work in an year. He has, however, completed the construction of
a spacious Ya j y a Vedi (platform), the foundation of which was laid
in 1941. Hnvnn is performed there on Shvre Icrish~za Janmasht ami ,
Shrazjani, and otllek festive occasions.
INDIAN 'I'RADE AGENT
' Under t he ,,orders of I,orti Curzon, Coloiiel ~our i ~hus bai i d led all
expedition and invaded Tibet in 1003. Thousands of Tibetans were
shot downl with the British nlachi~le guns. The Dalai Lama fled
away from the Potala Palace at 1,liasa and a treaty was forced 011
the Tibetans ill August 1904. Later on, in 1006, 1907, and 1912 some
more treaties were" made between the two governments, by which the
British had manoeuvred t o completely sever the ilomiilal suzeraillty
of China over 'l'il~et, wliich China now claims t o have regained after
the Britishers relinquished their hold 011 India.
According t o the same treaty three British Trade Agents were appoin-
ted-two in Central Tibet with headquarters one at Gyantse with a
contingent of 500 soldiers, and the other at Yatung, and one in
Western Tibet with headquarters at Gartok for six months,-it is
said, t o look after the interests and grievances of the Indian
traders who hold markets in Tibet every year. But nothing has
been done for them, since the British Government did not like
t o put any pressure on the Tibetan Government on the score of the
Indian merchants. As a matter of fact, in the year 1943 and 1944,
there were three cases in which Indian traders were flogged by the
Tibetan officers, contrary t o Treaty rules ; one Bhotia boy was shot dead
by a rowdy servant of the Tibetan Government Trader, in 1947. But no
proper action has beell taken by t he Indian Goveriiment so far. Now that
the popular government has come to power, the Indian traders expect
some redress from the atrocities of the Tibetan officials and highway
robbers and marauders. The Indian Government should now have a
strong Agent with a small contingent of 25 soldiers t o safeguard the
interests of the Indian traders in Western Tibet. The British Trade
Agent of Western Tibet starts froin Gangtok in the month of
May, goes t o Gartok, visits the important marts, goes again to Gartok,
and returns back t o India by some conveiiieiit pass in the month of
November. Since the attainment of the Indian Independellce on
August 15, 1947, the name of the British Trade Agent has been chaqged
to Indian Trade Agent. A travelling post Office accompanies himl
delivering and despatching mails once a week, during his stay
in Western Tibet. Garbyang (30 miles from Taklakot) and Milam
(65 miles from Gyanima) are the Illdial1 Post Offices nearest to the
Kailas-Manas Region. There are Post alld Telegraph Offices and
Telephone connections with India, h t h at Lhasa and Gyantse.
e
CURRENCY
6
Tanka-Obverse and Reverse
Tanka or fangs is the common silver coin ill use throughout Tibet.
Half tanga called jav is also current.
Tlle copper coins in use in
Tibet are khagnng ( $ langn), kavmanga ( iangn), chhcge ( a t aqn) ,
K A S H MI R A N D T I B E T 79
and shogang ( 3 t anga) , which are exchangeable only a t Lhasa.
Since
the year 1934, currency notes and silver rupees have been in use a t
Lhasa. Indian rupees are freely used everywhere in Tibet
in transactions. Tibetans prefer the Indian rupee t o their t anga.
The present rate of exchange is 4 t angas per rupee in Western Tibet.
The Indian rupee is called gornzo in Tibetan. For t he convenience
of transit, Tibetan officials take t he Indian currency notes with
them when they go t o Lhasa, as these are freely exchangeable there.
Nepali mohar and rupee are also exchangeable in the mandis.
KASHMIR AND TI BET
The King Lalitaditya, who ruled over Kashmir from 699 t o 735,
invaded Central Asia and Tibet' and annexed a major part of Western
Tibet including Ladakh. Thus Buddhism was introduced into Tibet
from Kashmir also. I n fact several Pandi f s from Kashmir went t o
Tibet to preach Buddhism. Siddha Milarepa's grand guru, the great
Tantrik teacher Naropa was a Kashmiri Pnndi t .
GENERAL ZORAVAR SINGH
Maharaja Gulab Singh's Commander-in-Chief, General Zoravar
Singh, after annexing the whole of Ladakh t o Jammu Raj in 1840,
proceeded t o Kailas in 1841 ; pillaged all t he villages and gompas and
destqoyed every fort on his way. He first established his head-
quarters at Tirthapuri and with 1,500 men fought a great battle near
Barkha with the Tibetail forces of 10,000 soldiers in which he utterly
routed them and advanced t o Taklakot. 1,eaving his army under
his subordinate, Captain Basti Rain, Zoravar took a handful of men
and went t o Gartok t o leave his wife there. On his way back he was
attacked at Toyo by a big army sent%y thechiilese t o assist the Tibetans.
Zoravar was taken by surprise, but fought so gallantly t hat the
Tibetails believed hiin t o be a Tant ri k endowed with supernatural
Powers. Since it was believed t hat no leaden bullet could penetrate
his body, he was sdot dead, in the end, with a golden bullet and was
afterwards hacked t o pieces. A samadhi or lno~lument has been
erected on his remains, which still stands there in the form of a chhorten.
Eoravar'slh testicles allcl sorlle flesh are still preserved in the Sinlbiling
Golllpa and one hai ~d ill tile Sakya C;ompa situated by its side. I n
some mollaSterics of Manasa Kha~i da, Zoravar's arltiours atid shields
are to this day preserved as trol~hies. General Zoravar Singh's Cen-
tellary was celebrated by the Darnla Seva Sangha a t Taklakot, when
the author exhihif&tl sonle of the General's armours and shields
brought froill Tibetans. This is a unique case in the history of the
world where the enemy has Imilt a inenlorial for the gallantry of a
defeated general.
8 0 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
LOPCHAK MISSION
Long before the annexation of Ladakh t o Jammu and Kashmir
State, the Vassal Chief of La d a h used to send a trade mission called
Lopchak Mission t o Lhasa, every third year, in order to
encourage trade between Lhasa and Ladakh, a distance of about
1,100 miles. A merchant of Ladakh used to get a financial
aid of about Rs. 6,000 t o meet the transport expenses for the long
journey. I n a similar way, the 1,hasa Government also used to
send a reciprocal Mission t o Ladakh. The Chief of Ladakh used to
send some curios of Ladakh as presents to the Dalai Lama through
this Mission and the Dalai Lama in turn used to send some curios of
Lhasa t o the Chief of Ladakh. After the annexation of Ladakh
to Jammu and Kashmir by the Maharaja in the year 1841, the Maha-
raja has continued the Mission. After the intervention of the British
in the State affairs, the British had begun controlling the Mission,
though i t was the Maharaja t hat was actually giving the grant-in-aid
t o the Mission, in order t o wield greater influence on Tibet, in which
the British had a marked success. After the withdrawal of the
British from India and the subsequent accession of Jammu and
Kashmir State to the Indian Dominion, naturally, the interest and
responsibility in the said 1,opchak Mission (being a subject of
External Affairs Department) now devolves on the Indian omi in ion.
c.
RAVAGES OF KAZHAKI NOMADS 01: RUSSIA
In the year 1941 about 3,000 nomads of Karghiz Kazhak of Russia
entered Tibet through Chinese Turkestan and pillaged and plundered
the whole of Western Tibet from one end to the other. Kazhakis
are Mohammedans by faith. They came with their kith and kin,
nnmda-tents, and camels. They hi d looted all the eight monasteries
of the Manas and conlpletely destroyed Tirthapt~ri Gompa besides
several others. Hundreds of Tibetan books were either thrown into
fires or flown to winds. The author had picked up some of them.
Several yak-loads of cloth costing about a lakh of rupees, belonging
to Johar Bhotia merchants, were carried away by these freebooters.
When they reached Manasarovar, they were camping on the northern
side spread over a distance of 15 miles. The author was at ~h u :
golho Gompa at that time. At Tsepgye Gompa on Rakshas Tat,
three inmates gave a tough fight froni illside against a contingent
of 80 Kazhaki horsemen and shot dead two of the leaders of the
party. So they had to turn ,back. This incidenpt had saved Purang
valley from being swept away by these brigands.
They used to
kill mules and horses for meat instead of sheep and goats.
By the time these plunderers reached 1,adakh they were in
N E P A L A N D M A N A S A K H A N D A 8 1
of over a lakh of sheep and goats, 4,000 yaks, 2,000 ponies
and mutes, 500 rifles and guns, and thousands of rupees worth of gold
alld silver images, jewellery, precious stones, gold, silver, and silver
coins. On the borders of Ladakh t he Kashmir Government, after
disarming allowed them passage t o go t o British India. Due t o their
alliance with Russia, the British Governnlent had made temporary
arrangement for their st ay in Hazara district, N.W.F. Province, and had
spent 2,38,000 rupees for their maintenance between May 1942 and
February 1943. Since then, Bhupal and Nizam States had applied
for settling them in their States, but they were finally settled down
in Hazara District. These Kazhakis, i t is learnt, have been taking
active part during the present Kashmir riots, making a good harvest.
NEPAI, AND MANASA KHANDA
Srongchen Gan~po, t he Emperor of Tibet, conquered t he whole
of Nepal and married Bhrikuti, the daughter of Anshu Varma, the
king of Nepal, in the seventh century A.D. Thus began the connection
of Nepal with Tibet. Later on, several pundits from Nepal went t o
Tibet for propagating Buddhism ; similarly several Tibetan monks
came to India through Nepal. Even today, thousands of Tibetans
go to Nepal t o visit the three great Tirthas of Swayambhu (Plzagoa-
shingun), Mahabodhi (Charztng-khashzir) , and Nanlobuddhaya (Tamo-
11ginj. In 1760 the Nepalese invaded Tibet but the Chinese forces
pursued them upto Kathnlandu and utterly routed them. I n 1854
the Nepalese invaded Purang Taklakot and forced a treaty on them
by which Tibet had t o pay an annual tribute of 10,000 Nepalese
mohars and receive a permanent Nepalese Resident at Lhasa.
Besides this, the Nepalese secured several trade facilities in Tibet.
In 1929-30 a severe breach of pea6e was threatened between the two
countries over the right of trial of a particular person but was
averted in time: I n colltravention of some settlement between the
Nepalese and the Tibetan Governments, the Zoiigpoil of Taklakot
has imposed some trade t ax and forced Tibetan tea at cent per cent
interest on the people of Limi in the north-western part of Nepal,
for non-conlpliance of which two respectable and well-to-do nlerchants
hf Limi were tied and handcuffed aiid the t ax has been realized and
the tea was forced on them a t cent per cent interest.
0
BHIJTANESE POSSESSIONS
About 300 (?) year9 back, ollefamous ~hut a ne s e Lama by nameNgava-
Namgyal got the village of Tarchheii from the Tibetan Goveriiment
for his stay near Kailas. Through his influelice lie had built Nyanri and
other lnoilasterics alicl illflueilce over some other places later on.
82 KA I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
Tarclihen, at the foot of Kailas, Nyanri and Zuthul-phuk ~onisteries
of Kailas, Cherkip Gompa of Manasarovar, the villages of Dungmar,
Ringung, Doh, Khochar, Gezon near Gartok, Itse Gompa, Gonphu,
Gesur, Sammar, and a few other places in Western Tibet, came to
belong t o the State of Bhutan. These places are now governed by
a Bhutanese monk-officer, whose headquarters is at Tarchhen,
where there is a big building owned by the Bhutan State.
' JANMA BHOOMI ' AND ' JNANA NAUKA ' ON THE MANAS
Before concluding his trips to the Holy Lake, the author wishes
t o locate definitely the thermal springs situated in the bed of Mana-
sarovar and reach the centre of the Lake, which is considered by
the Tibetans t o be inaccessible and which has not been reached by
any one up till now. To achieve this he took to Alinora in 1942
the ' Jnana NaukaJ-galvanized steel sailing dinghy-cum-motor
boat-presented to him by His Highness Maharajashree Sir Krishna
Kumar Sinha, K.C.S.I., Maharaja Saheb of Bhavanagar, which
was lying there upto the middle of 1947, for want of official sympathy
to secure transport and for want of funds. With the munificent
donation of Shree Amritlal D. Sheth of ' Janma Bhoomi ', Bombay,
and with the co-operation of the Congress ministry of U. P. he could
transport the boat to Manasarovar in August 1947. I t was at last
launched in the Holy Lake on August 17. With the @, and
Tri-colour flags proudly fluttering side by side on the deck, the
' Jnana Nauka ' rushed into the turquoise-blues of the celebrated
celestial Lake amidst deafening cheers of pilgrims, Tibetans, and
Bhotia traders. A few soundings were formally taken. As the
book is being taken to the press, information is received that the
U.P. Government have made a spxi al grant to defray the cost of
the outboard motor to complete the exploration work on
Manasarovar. After completing the work the boat would
be left on Manasarovar under the care of the Darma
Seva Sangha for the benefit of future pilgrims and tourists.
In 1946 the author took the ' Janma Bhoomi', a three-
seater light rubber boat presented to him by Shree Arnritlal D. Sheth
of Bombay. He launched it in Manasarovar and soundect the lake
Gouri-kuncl.
SOME REFLECTIONS
Aeroplanes can very easily, descend on the plains at Parklia, on
the north of Manasarovar, near Gyanima, Chhakra, or as a matter
of fact, anywhere in Tibet without spending much for the constructioll
of a runway or an aerodrome. Sea-planes can convenie~ltly descend
into the Manas, the Rakshas, or any other lake, Trials are beillg
tnade to move the Government of India t o induce the Tibetan
Government to permit the pilgrim planes t o go t o Kailas-Manas
Region. 'When this is achieved, a sea-plane can very easily be
chartered.
An airfield is being constructed a t Badrinath, which is an
hour's jonrney from Hardwar.
So i t is very likely t hat arrange-
ments for an aerial route t o Kailas and Manasarovar also would
be made soon for the air-minded. This would be very
advantageous t o those who cannot afford time and undergo
the hardships of the long journey t o these places. But this would
in no way deter those pilgrims and tourists who love adven-
ture and mountain-trotting, from undertaking the journey by foot
or by pony.
We do not wish t hat the tranquillity and sanctity of this Regioii
should be disturbed in any way, but i t would be no wonder if in
near future, some enterprising concern starts a ' Kailas-Manasarovar
Air Service ' and begin taking pilgrims and tourists t o this Region
in such an amazingly short time t hat one could return back home
the same day after having a dip in the Holy Lake ! The author very
much wishes that the young men of this Ailcient Land take living
interest f ~ r going t o the Himalayas and be benefited both physically
and spiritually.
'r$e possibilities of an expedition t o reach the top of the Kailas
-if and when such a venture be allowed by the conservative, super-
stitious, and suspicious Tibetans--can be investigated and surveyed
from the eastern side only, since on the remaining three sides the
Peak rises almost perpendicularly and avalanches slide down
headlong
It is a matter of pity t o note t hat the Indian Universities and the
Indian youth of today are not taking any living interest for leading
expeditions to the Himalayas, either for mountaineering, explora-
tion, or for trotting, even for a pleasure trip ; whereas i t has been
reserved for the foreigner to reach the top of the Kamet or the Nanda
Devil or to so~uld the Lake Manas, or t o discover the source of the
Brahmaputra. This was not the case in the Ancient Aryavarta.
a time when people of other countries used t o dread the inouri-
t"in and the forest and when they had not learnt t o appreciate and
the Beauty of nature and mountain grandeur, thousands of
Years back our al~cestors had explored the most inaccessible moun-
tains, forests, and regiolls in the Himalayas ; they liad gone t o every
nook and corner of these snow ranges and used t o hold utlsl~okeii
talks with Nature ; they had discovered the best view-points aiid
I'alloranias and elljoyed their beauty in all nakedness aiid bequeathed
the111 to us as legacy by way of places of pilgrimage. Tlie very fact that
5
K A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
the most inaccessible mountains, rivers, streams, brooks, springs,
passes, and places have been stamped with names is a proof of this
statement. I n one word, their very life-blood-their best writings,
both spiritual and secular, Vedas, Upanishads, Epics, Poetry, Art,
Astronomy, Medicine, etc.-was all inspired by these hoary moun-
tains. Even in the later period of Indian history, the Great Shankara-
charya had established one of his monasteries at Joshimath near
Badrinath in the heart of the Himalayas. I n the eighth and tenth
centuries Acharya Shantarakshita and Deepankara Shreejnana crossed
the invulnerable Himalayas from one side t o the other, went to
Tibet, and travelled from one end of the country to the other
t o preach t he gospel of Buddha even at the ripe age of one hundred
years.
The author cannot resist the temptation of repeating once
again the lines of Burrard and Hayden, " Manasarowar was the
first lake known t o geography. Lake Manasarowar is famous in
Hindu mythology ; i t had in fact become famous many centuries
before the lake of Geneva had aroused any feeling of admiration
in civilized man. Before the dawn of history Manasarowar had
become the sacred lake and such i t has remained for four millennium."
What is the state of affairs now in this very country where our
ancestors showed so much of interest and enthusiasm, in the past,
in the Himalayas ? What a deplorable condition ! Modern Incl,ia is
not wanting in men or money ; there are thousands of educated
youths with finer tastes and scientific attitude, but unfortunately
they always complain of political bondage ; whereas in foreign lands
people have not stopped exploration work even when the whole
world was engaged in dreadful wars. I n Switzerland and other
countries there are regular schools'. and seasonal training courses in
mountaineering, skating, ski-ing and allied subjects. Even the
general public, men, women, young and old, and ckildren, undergo
training in these subjects, and go on a holiday trip for mountain-
excursions even during winters. Readers need not be surprised in
this, the author's side-trekking from the main subject ; one often
enjoys a side-trekking in the Himalayan travels.
I n the opinion of the author our young met1 are wanting+n enthu-'
siasnl for mountaineeriilg and adventure, for which the modern
Universities are mainly responsible. So the Universities should now
encourage and inspire students and finance them by sending batches
of them to the Himalayas in the beginning, on educational and
health tours. When once i t is started, in the coutse of a decade, the
author is sure, t hat wonderful progress will he made in this direction.
" The Himalayan germ, once caught, works inside like a relapsing
fever ; i t is ever biding its time before breaking out again with
S O M E R E F L E C T I O N S 8 5
increased virulence " .' " Once a man has found the road in the
Himalayas, he can never keep away for lollg "."he Geography
~e~ar t ment s of Universities should evince special interest in this
regard and invite foreign mountaineering experts for training their
students. This work is long overdue and should be immediately
taken up both by the Indian Universities and the Goverilnlent in
right earnest.
KAILAS - MANASAROVAR
THIRD WAVIS
TOURIST'S COMPANION
63. Tibeten Blaok Tent
- -
66- T U L hoop ehe dream -: --
- - --
hahair _ _ _ __Z
a-sd4 - -
- -- --
_ --
Twietiing wool
t o mkka inb
Eb b B
[&BE p. 71
Wo01-shearing st
Th~golho, Mms.
aal'ovar
[ Seep. 11
59. Milking Croatci
I
62. Skooo-imqp of I ?raj acl - 7t h end
eome Freseas in the baakground
63. Ruined oolumna of a Fort at Purbu
deetroyed by h e r s 1 Zorevar
w
[56e pp. 79 & 122
GENERAL OUTLINE OP THE ROUTE TO KAILAS
AND
MANASAROVAR VI A LIPU LEKH PASS
VARIOUS ROUTES TO THE HOLY KAILAS AND MANASAROVAR
THERE are several routes t o the Holy Kailas and Manasarovar from
different places, of which the following are important.
(i) From Almora via Askot, Khela, Garbyang, LIPU LEKII PASS
(16,760 ft.), and Taklakot t o Kailas (Tarchhen)-238 miles.
(ii) From Almora via Askot, Khela, DARMA PASS (18,510), and
Gyanima Mandi-227 miles.
(iii) 1;roin Alnlora via Rageshvar, Milani, UNTA-DHUKA PASS
(17,600), JAYANTI PASS (18,500), KUNGRI-BINGRI PASS
(18,300), and Gyanima Mandi-2 10 miles.
(iv) $'roil1 Joshimath via GUNLA-NITI PASS (16,600), Nabra Maiidi,
Sibchilim Mandi, and G~ani nl a Mandi-200 miles.
(v) I.'rorn Joshinlath via DAMJAN-NITI PASS (16,200), Tonjan
La (1 6,350), Sibchilim Mandi, and Gyailima Mandi-
160 miles.
(vi) From Joshirnath via HOTI-NITI PASS (16,390), Sibchilim
Mandi, and Gyanima Mandi-158 miles.
(vii) 1;roin Badrinath via MANA PASS (18,400), Thuliilg Math,
Dapa, Nabra, Sibchilin~, and Gyailima Mandi-238 miles.
(viii) Prom Mukhuva-Gangotri, via Nilang, JELUKHAGA PASS
(17,490), Puling Mandi, Thuling, Dapa, Sibchilim, and
Gyailima Mandi-243 miles.
(ix) I;roin Sinlla via Rampur, SHIPKI PASS (15,400), Shirilig La
(16,400), Loache La (18,F10), GARTOK (15,100), Chargot La
(16,200), and Tirthapuri-446 miles.
(x) I;ronl Siilila via Rampur, SHIPKI PASS, Shiriiig La, THULING,
Dapa, Sibchilim, aiid G~ai l i i na Maiidi-473 miles.
(xi) 1;rom Sr i i ~ a ~ a r (Kashmir) via ZOZI LA (1 1,578), Naniiiiik
(18,000), Potu La (13,446), LEH (LADAKH), TAGLANG LA
(17,500), I)emchok, Gargunsa, GARTOK, Chargot La (16,200),
q Tirthapuri-605 miles.
(xii) l?rom Katlllliarldu (Nepal-~ashupatiiiatli) via MUKTINATI~,
GIOCHARNATH, and Taklakot-about 525 miles.
(xiii) ~: rom 1,llasa via ' r ~ s ~ r - L ~ u ~ p o - a b o u t 800 miles.
(xiv) 1:rom Kullu in Kailgra District through Rainpur Bashahr
State via THULING.
.
The first route, i, e, from Almora via 1,ipu 1,ekh pass is the easiest and
for people going fiom the plains, heilce, it is described ill
12
full; and brief outlines of other routes are also given for the benefit
of pilgrims and tourists who may select any of the other routes.
HOW TO REACH ALMORA
The last railway station on the way t o Almora is Kathgodam
(0. T. Railway).
For all those who start from the plains it is
advisable to get down a t Haldwani station (5 miles before
reaching Kathgodam) as i t is a big mandi and because better
and cheaper arrangements can be made for boarding and lodging, for
buses, lorries, cars, coolies, etc. from here than from Kathgodam.
There is a Post Office, a Telegraph Oflice, a Dak Bungalow, a
Hospital, a Motor Agency, Hotels, etc. besides a big mandi. The usual
fare for a seat in the bus from Haldwani t o Almora (about 88 miles
by motor) is Rs. 4-6 plus a toll of as. 8 a t Almora. The Motor
Transport Agency is a t a distance of fifty yards from the station,
and the Arya Samaj dharmashala is by its side.
Kathgodam is 64 miles t o the north of Bareilly junction. There
is a Post Office, a Telegraph Office, a Dak Bungalow, a Motor
Transport Agency, Hotels, etc. Kathgodam being the starting
station, pilgrims will be well advisecl to entrain here on their
return journey .
It is about seven hours' motor journey from Haldwani to Almora.
After the twelfth mile from Kathgodaml, motor road to Naiqj Tal
branches off ; Naini Tal is 15 miles from here ; at the fifteenth
mile is the popular Hill Crest Sanatorium, for tuberculosis,
started in 1936; at the Sixteenth mile, down below the road
is the Government Apiary or Bee-culture Farm ; from the seventeenth
mile (Gethia) one footpath branches off to Naini Tal (6,400), which is
3 miles from here; at the twentysecond mile is Bhowali (5,700), the well
known Government Sanatorium for T.B. patients; apples, pears,apricots,
peaches, etc. can be had here, (Bhim Tal is only 5 miles from here) ;
after the thirty-fifth mile is a place called Garampani, where there
are hotels, water-dhava, etc. and where buses' stop for half an
hour, so t hat passengers might take their tiffin or meals ; and between
the forty-ninth and fifty-third mile is the Cantonment of ~nnikhet
(5,980) ; also a big bazaar ; if the sky is clear, one can h ~ v e a beautifd
view of the snows; (Karna-Prayag on the route to Badrinath is 60 miles
from here and Badrinath is 67 miles from Karna-Prayag); &out 8 miles
before Alnlora, one motor road splints to Gart ~r and ~ai j nat h
which are 43 miles from herp ; 62 miles before reaching Alrnora
olie crosses the Kosi-bridge ; (from (>aramparii" up to Almora, one
A L MO R A 9 1
sees, as far as the eye could travel, extensive terrace-cultivation; the
whole country being mountainous, plots of land, big and small, are
cut into terraces or just like so many steps ; i t is a pleasant sight t o
look at these revolving terraces, both above and below and on both
the sides, while the bus speeds on the road); and 2& miles before
Almora is the toll-bar, where each passenger is required t o
pay a toll of eight annas. From Kathgodam up t o Bhowali i t is
a steep ascent, descent up t o Garampani, steep ascent up t o Rani-
khet, steep descent up to Kosi, and steep ascent up t o Alrnora.
From Haldwani t o Almora i t is about 41 miles by footpath and i t
is 16 miles to Naini Tal.
Haldwani to Bhim Tal . . 12 miles There are ascents and
Bhim Tal to Ramgarh . . 9; ,, descents throughout ;
Ramgarh to Phyuda . . 10 ,, but the scenery is
Phyuda to Almora . 9& ,, charming.
Total 41 ,,
ALMORA
Almora is the headquarters of Almora District, the Paftranic
name of which is Kurmachala. The town of Alinora is situated at
a height of 5,404 feet above the sea-level and is one of the healthiest
and tnost beautiful hill-stations in India with a population of
about twenty thousand. There are two Second-Grade Colleges,
High Schools for boys and girls, Post and Telegraph Ofices,
Bauks, Hospital, District Court, District Jail, Forest Office, District
and Municipal Boards, Cantonml;nt, decent bazaars, Hotels, Motor
Trailsport Agency, 0 . T. Railway Out-Agency, Goveriln~eiit Woollen
Stores, health-resorts, old fort of the Kings of Chaiid Dynasty,
temple of ~ a n d i Devi, Narasiugabadi, Badrishvar, Baleshvar, Patal
Devi, Kasar Devi, 6yahi Devi, and some other holy places, Ranla-
krishna Mission, Christian 14issiot1, and all other anlenities which
go to make up a decent town. Living is much simpler and cheaper
bere thau in many other hill-stations.
Royal, kapital, and Hiinnlaya are fairly good hotels.
Those who
want to stay in a high class hotel, call put up in Deodar Hotel, where
the charges are Rs. 10 to 16 per day. 'I'he long-felt want of a dhnnna-
shala here has beell removed by the opening of Anandamayi dlzarma-
shala in 2044, very-near the Railway Out-Agency, just by the side
of the road, a furlong before reaching the Motor Station.
One can have a fine view of the snows from Almora when the sky
is clear. Far away t o the north stands out the wonderful line of
92 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
snow-peaks, towering up t o t he sky t o a height of 25,000 feet and
showiiig their well-defined peaks, t he Nanda Ghunti (Nandakna
20,700 feet), Trisul-the Trident of Shiva (23,406 ; 22,320 ; 21,850))
the sharp wedge of Nanda Devi (25,645) and Nandakot (22,510) ;
Kedarnath (22,770)) t he square mass of Chukhamba (Badrinath
23,420), Nilakanta (21,650), Kamet (25,447)) Gouri Parvat (22,027))
and the Hat hi Parvat (22,370) on t he west ; and Naulphu (21,446),
Pancha Chulhi-the fire stalls of Gods (22,650), and the Nepal peaks
of Api (23,399), Nampa (22,162) and others towards the eastern
extremity, the whole stretch of arc measuring over 250 miles. Best
snow-view can be had also from Binsar, Kausani, Berinag, and Sandev
(see Map No. 8).
Some Western Sadhakas like Shree Earl E. H. Brewester (America),
Mr. Alfred Sorenson (Denmark), and others have made their abodes
here. Four miles west of Almora, situated on the hill of Kasar Devi,
Dr. Evans Wentz of America has built a small Ashram in the middle
of a pine forest of 10 acres. This place commands a grand view
of the valleys and hills below and the snow-ranges beyond.
The
famous Indian dancer Uday Shankar' s Culture Centre also
worked here till 1943.
About 13 miles north-east of Almora is the health-resort of Binsar.
There are some apple, pear, and other fruit-gardens and some bunga-
lows for visitors t o stay in. From t he t op of t he Jhanda peak bere,
one can have a grand view of the snow-ranges. Fifty miles south-
east of Almora is Mayavati Vedanta Ashram situated in the middle
of a thick jungle, within a short distance from the townships of
Lohaghat and Champavat. On the south, at a distance of 14 miles is
the famous Veterinary Research Institute at Mukhtesllvar, situated
on the top of a hill 7,702 feet high. It was started in 1H!)5 and is
one of the biggest Veterinary Institutes in the world.
The whole route t o Kailas and Manasarovar beiag in mountains
the journey consists of a series of ascents and descents, exceptillg
the Parikrama of Manasarovar, which will he described later in the
route table (see Map No. 9) .
STEEP ASCENTS
(i) Prom Supai
(ii) To Dhaul-chhina
(iii) Seraghat t o Naruaka-ghol
(iv) To Berinag
(v) From Thal
(vi) To Chholiokhi-dhar
(vii) Rounti-gad t o Khela
Miles
. .' 1
S T E E P D E S C E N T S
9 3
(viii) Dhauli-Ganga t o Thani-dhar
(iu) Jungti-gad t o Soosa
(x) To Sumaria-dhar
(xi) Nijang to Bola
(xii) From Malpa
(xiii) Pelsipi t o Kothla
(xiv) From Budi
(xv) To Kirong-kong
(xvi) Ngavidang t o Lipu 1,ekll pass
(xvii) From Garu
(xviii) Gori-udyar t o Gurla la
(xix) Dira-phuk t o Dolm l a
(i)
(ii)
(iii)
(iv)
(4
(vi)
(vii)
(viii)
(i.1
(4
(xi)
(xii)
(xiii)
(xiv)
(xv)
(xvi)
(xvii)
(xviii)
STEEP DESCENTS
Chitai t o Chaukhutiya
Dhaul-chhina t o Bhoura-gadhera
From Dungarlekh-chhina
From Naruaka-ghol
Berinag t o Gurghatia-bridge (with reliefs
here and there)
To Askot
Askot t o Garjiya-bridge
To Kalika
Khela t o Dhauli-Ganga
From Tithlakot t o Sirklla
Sumaria-dliar t o Sinkhola-gad
Bindakot t o Jumli-ndyar
From 1301a j
Froin Kothla
From Shet o (Budi-toy)
Lipu Lekh t o Pala
From Guf a In towards Manasarovar
From Dolm la
Total 4 A i
The first 18 asceiits arid tile 17 descents on the outward jouniey
become deScetits and ascellts respectively on the return jouriiey.
The whole journey mav roughly be .,divided into seven stages.
FIRST S'CAGE
ALMORA to DIIARCHVI,A---OO miles. ~t is 7 days' journey ; pollies
mules, coolies, and dandies call be had for conveyance.
9 4 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
JAGESHVAR is situated in a beautiful narrow valley under deodar
trees. It is about 18 miles from Almora via Rade-&hina and
Panwanaula. Some believe this t o be one of the twelve Jyotir-lingas.
Here are the temples of Bala Jageshvar, Mrityunjaya, Pushti Devi,
Navagrahas, Sun, besides a host of smaller temples, and broken idols
which received rude shocks from the hands of the Mohammedan
invaders.
There are some fine specimens of sculpture here. A small
stream flows nearby and there are a few houses and several
dharmnshalas. It is an ancient place and has a good spiritual vibration.
Fairs are held on Shivarntri and on the full moon day of the month
of Vnishakha. Vriddha Jageshvar is at a distance of about 18 miles
situated on the top of a ridge. Those who want t o visit Jageshvar
may do so and come t o the main road again at Dhaul-chhina.
GANGOLIHAT (5,580) is a big village, 18 miles from Jageshvar.
Here are a number of temples in the bazaar; and two furlongs beyond
the bazaar, situated in the middle of the thick grove of deodars is the
temple of Maha Kali, where a big mela is held on ~urgasht ami day
during the Dasnhra. From here one road goes t o Pithoragarh (17im.).
PITHORAGARH is a small township situated in the valley of Sor.
There is a High School, a Post Office, a Telegraph Office, a Hospital,
Tehsil, and the Deputy Collector's Court. There is also an old Fort,
Dak Bungalow, remnants of an old fortification, hotels, and bazaars.
Sor is the most beautiful valley in the whole of Almora District,
resembling Kashmir valley on a miniature scale, ancl is a big rice-
producing valley. A motor road is under construction from Tanakpur
Railway Terminas t o Pithoragarh and thence t o Askot. See Table 1.
When this road is ready, i t would be more convenient for pilgrims
t o Kailas t o get clown from the train at Tanakpur and go t o ~ithoragarh
hy bus, which is 25 miles from Askot. Askot is 69 miles from
Almora. By taking this new route the pilgrims would save about
45 miles or three days' journey.
c
PATALA-BHWANESHVAR is 64 miles from Gangolighat.
Here are
three ancient temples.
At a distance of one from the telnple
is an interesting cave, the entrance t o which is very narrow.
While
traversing it one shall have t o go sometimes sitting and crawling.
Several images are engraved on the walls t o the cave insile, which
are believed t o depict the anecdotes of Mahabharata. The cave
is cold and damp ancl at places there are sialagmites and stalactites
with water tickling down from the roof. One should take a torch-
light while going in. Archaeqlogists would find interesting materials
here. The Pujari of the temple, a RshatriyA would guide the
visitors t o the cave.
BERINAG or VENINAG is 11 miles from Patala-Bhuvaneshvar and
is said to be the abode of Veni Nags. I n the neighbourhood are
F I R S T S l ' AGG 95
the abodes of Pingal Nag, Mu1 Nag, Phalli Nag, Dhaul Nag, ~ a s u k i
Nag, and Kal Nag, also known as Ramanika Dwipa, which is 5 lniles
from Berihag proper. Those who want t o visit Jageshvar, Gangoli-
hat, and Patal-Bhuvaneshvar may do so and come t o the main
road at Berinag ; and tliose who want t o visit Bageshvar should
go there from Berinag on their return journey.
Four miles from Berinag is the village Nargoli situated on the
road to Bageshvar. A mile away from this village, situated on the
top of a hill is the temple of BHADRA-KALI, where the river Bhadra-
Kali or Bhadravati flows through a tunnel under the hill and the
view is grand. 'fen miles from Berinag is Sani-udyar, where the
Rishi Shandilya was said t o have done penance.
BAGESHVAR is situated a t the confluence of .the two rivers Sarayu
and Gomati, 26 miles from Almora. Situated at the confluence
are the temples of Baghnath, Dattatreya, Bhairavanath, and Gangaji.
Bazaars are located on either side of the river Sarayu. I n the middle
of the river Sarayu
near the suspension bridge is a big boulder
called Markandeya Shila, where t he Rishi Markandeya was said t o
have done penance and written the Dz q a Saptnshaii and Lord Shiva
was married to the daughter of Himavan. A big fair is held here
011 the occasion of IlfakaraSanhmnti (14th January), when the Bhotias
sell thousands of rupees worth of all sorts of Tibetan goods. I n the
surroundings of Bageshvar, there are mines of soapstone, iron,
coppir, graphite, and quartz in crystalliile form.
GOKI-UDYAR is a big cave situated six miles north of Rageshvar. This
is an interesting cave full of big stalagmites, stalactites, and stalactitic
col~umus.
A brook flows nearby forming a number of cataracts.
BAIJNATH is situated on the left bank of the river Gomati, 13 miles
north-west of Bageshvar. It is9 also called Vaidyanath. During
the ninth or tenth centtlry A. D. Katyuri ICings from Joshiinath came
arid settled dow41 here. The temples of this place belong t o the
twelfth or the thirteenth century which are all now in ruins,
the more important' of which are Balnalii Deval, Baijnath temple,
alld Kedarnath temple. Besides these there are several other teillples
and idols. Amongst the sculptures the idol of Parvati, which is
kept outsi$le the telilple of ~ai j l l at h, is a fine speciinen. Quarter
of a mile fro& here is Talihat, wl~ere there are a noinber
images a ~ d terrlples of the sanle l~eriod as those of Baijiiatli.
There is the gaddi of the Katyuri kings, temple of I,aksliininarnyann,
Raksllas Deval, and the temple of ,Satyanarayaiia. The idol of
Sat~~llarayaiia an& other images i t are all very excellent
About a mile and a half from here, situated on the top of a
I1l11 is the fort of Rsl1chu>kot alld the temple of ~l l rani ari Devi.
a mile froin here is the telllple of Nagnath.
The Katyuri
9 6 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A I i
valley is the second most beautiful valley in the whole of Alnlora
District like the Lolab valley of Kashmir. Both Katyur and
Bageshvar are big rice-growing valleys.
One mile south of Baijnath is the village Garur. The distance
between Garur and Nanda-Prayag is 454 miles and between Nanda-
Prayag and Badrinath i t is 544 miles. Some people go to Badrinath
by this route, visiting the famous Gohna lake on the way. Buses
from Almora (42 miles) and Haldwani (116 miles) come up to this
place. Five miles (by foot) south of Baijnath is the place called
KAUS.INI (6,060).
This place is a good health-resort and the view
of the snow-peaks from here is simply superb. It is here that the
world's greatest man Mahatma Gandhi has written bis book
Anasakti Yoga.
Down below Kausani, at Someshvar and nvarahat
also, there are several olcl temples and ruins. Near Someshaar there
is a big centre of the All India Spinners' Association managed by
Shree Shantilal Trivedi.
JAUI,JIBI is situated at the confluence or sangam of the Gouri or Gori
Ganga coming from Milam and Kali-Ganga corning from Lipu Lekh p;iss.
Jazd means confluelice and j i b means a narrow strip of land like the
tongue between two rivers. A little above the confluence stan\L a
sniall temple of Mahadev, situated in a thick grove of mangoes
and other trees. Just opposite the temple is a dharmnshala constructed
by the Rani of Askot in 1944.
One can command a fine view of
sangnm from here, which presents a fine spectacle. The Kaii i ;
almost throughout a tearing, ranging, and foaming torrent and hence
unfordable. Down below the temple, situated along the Gori is the
village, the inhabitants of which are Musaliyas or Mohammedans,
male members being converts mostly from Hindu weaver-class and
a11 the womenfolk being converts from Harijan Shilpikars. At the
western end of the village are the winter residences and cam1)ing
places of Bhotias.
A big fair is held here on Vrishchika Sanhyanti, the 14th of ~ovember,
when the Rhotia merchants of both Johar and Darma Parganas
gather here in great numbers with Tibetan goods-~voollen blankets,
skins, wool, salt, etc. ; and a brisk trade of about 4 laklls of
rupees is done annually. Nepalis anrl the down-country people
numbering about 10,000 gather here for the r ~ ~ r l n , which lasts for three or
four days. Woollen goods from Jjhot alitl Tibet (such ,tls thulmas,
chzclkas, pnnkhis, and carpets), skins of wow-leopard, lynx, snow-
martin, Tibetan goat, musk-deer, and lambs, ponies, mules, ghee,
honey, guv of cltzcva flowers, chzhva-ghee and musk nre the specialities,
besides all other commodities usually found in melas. A few days
before the nzela temporary bridges are cmstructed on both rivers
Gori and Kali, a little up the confluence, when the level of the
SECOND STAGE 97
water in thein falls down, which serve for about six inoiiths in tlie
year.
About 24 miles down the confluence, situated on t he right bank
of the Kali, is the place called Hanseshvar, where there is a small
temple of Hanseshvar Mahadev. There lived a Swami here who was
considered to be over 130 years of age.
He died in 1915.
SECOND STAGE
DHARCHULA TO GARBYANG---55 miles.
It is five days' journey and
only coolies and dandies can be had for coilveyailce in this stage.
CHHIPLAKOT LAKES : Five miles beyond Dharchula, leaving the
main road, one footpath goes through the village of Jumma t o the
famous Chhiplakot lakes which are a t a distance of about 21 miles,
situated at a height of 14,000 feet, wherefrom one can have t he
best panoramic views of the Pailch Chulhi group. This trip may be
undertaken on the return journey from Kailas, only by the very
adventurous. Begi~ining from the road, right up t o tlie lakes i t is almost
one continuous and very steep ascent and oftentimes very dangerous :
but the trip is worth the trouble. The lakes are also called Chhipla-
Kedar or Naj ur i - ~und, they are t he pilgrim places of about 15 villages.
The bigger lake called Kakrola-kid, about 1,030 feet in circumference,
is a place of pilgrimage for the people of Gorichhal ; and the smaller
lake,babout 840 feet in circumference is a place of pilgrimage for tlle
villagers on the side of Dharchula; t he bigger lake is several feet deep and
the smaller one is very shallow and becomes dry in early winter. The
author visited these lakes on October 22 and 23, 1937 ; severalcoilis are
offered to the deities of the lake, but nobody would remove them
for fear. that something untowar,# might happen t o him. During
the rainy seasoil thousa~lds of Brahnza Kaninl are seen blossomiiig,
giving out a sweet fragrance all around.
DEATH-CAVE :'Nine and a half miles up Khela on the Darma road
is a hailllet of three houses called Nyo, very near the village Sovla.
Some SO yards behind the houses is a cave called ' Khar-udyar' or
' Death-Cave '. Tile cave is 24 feet long, G feet broad inside and 9 feet
at the n~outli, alld 8 feet high illside and 12 feet a t the mouth. It
said t hi t \bhatever creature enters it dies instai~taneottsly. The
author ent qed the cave with certain rec cautions for the first time
011 October 5, 10.77 in the presence of some villagers, but there was 110
gas in the cave on t hat occasion. Inside the cave he found about 40
kalchlcna birds, solrls crows, several big'wild spiders, rats, and a few
other birds, besides the old skeletons of two boa-constrictors said t o
have entered the cave a fgw years back and died instantaneously.
The cave was damp and the dead bodies of some of the birds were
fresh.
9 8 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
Many Europeans and several District Magistrates of Almora visited
this cave, but nobody entered the cave so far.
Two P~t war i s of
Chaudans experimented by sending two goats inside, tied to a
rope. One goat died instantaneously as i t entered the cave,
and the other was dragged out immediately i t fell down and
brought t o consciousness by splashing water on the face. The author
entered the cave again on October 18, 1939 with nostrils closed and with
ropes tied t o the waist, held by two men outside. There was some
suffocating gas up t o a height of 3 feet but i t could not be tested,
but burning splinters of pine were put out in t hat gas. On November
12, 1940 the author entered the cave for the third time with nostrils
closed and brought out a test-tube full of gas and tested it by adding
barium-peroxide solution. The suffocating gas was found to be carbon-
dioxide. This time the gas was spread t o a height of 4 feet above
the ground. During the rainy season when water enters the cave,
carbon-dioxide is given out very profusely filling the whole cave;
hence a flying bird as soon as i t enters the cave is suffocated and falls
down dead. Those who are interested in the cave may go there on
their return journey from Kailas. One can start early in the morning
from Khela and return back by evening.
BHOTIAS : From Dhauli-Ganga (1 1 miles beyond Dharchula)
upwards i t is inhabited by Bhotias. Bhotias are the iilhabitallts
of the Indian borderland lying in the Himalayas. The people of
Darma (from Khela up the Dhauli-Ganga), of Chaudans (from ~hauli-
Ganga up t o Bindakot), and Byans (from Bindakot up to the Lipu
Lekh and Lampiya pass), of Chhangru and Tinker (on Nepal borders),
and of Johar (from Tejam up t o Kungri-bingri pass) in North Almora,
the people of Niti and Mana side in North Garhwal ~istrict,
and the people of Nilang on the nbrthern extremity of ~ehri-Carhwal
State are called Bhotias ( Y ~ ~ ) . The Bhotias of Mana are also called
Marchhas and of Nilang, Jads. That part of the cou,ltry which they
inhabit is called Bhot (vk). The Tibetans are called Huniyas
( $w). These Bhotias are Hindus by religion a i d ~ s h a t r i y ~
by caste ; all their names end in ' Singh '. Many of them wear
sacred thread (yajnopavita) and speak a mixture of Hindi and
Tihetall languages. In summer they go t o the various mandrs or lllarts
in Western Tibet by various passes for trade and come down in winter
t o the plains with wool, borax, and other Tibetan conimodities
take back piece-goods etc. t o Tibet during the next season.
Bhotias are very sturdy and industrious people. As they have to
deal with the Tibetans every year, they eat and drink freely with
them. So the orthodox people of the plains generally do not
interdine with the Bhotias.
Womenfolk also are very hard-working. They do all work in the fields
S ~ C O N D STAGE: 99
except ploughing, and take t o weaving during leisure hours.- They
enjoy full social liberty and wear very heavy silver jewellery. Bho-
tias, like dl1 dther people of the hill districts, are very fond of dancing,
which is called gol-nach (circle-dance). The people of Chaudans Bhot
celebrate a festival called Kangdali-ka-ladai (fight of the kangdali), once
in twelve years. This is a very interesting festival observed when a
particular plant called kangdali blooms once in twelve years.
Last time they celebrated this festival in autumn 1939.
Most of the inhabitants of Bhutan, Sikkim, and northern out-
skirts of Nepal are Tibetans. They are called Bhotias by many
people, most probably because they are the followers of Buddhism
or Bodh. The Indian Buddhists of Rampur Bushahr and Kangra
are also called Bhotias by many. But the term ' Bhotia ' as applied
to these people is not t o be confounded with the Bhotiasl
described in this book.
DARMA SEVA SANGHA was started by the late Thakur Moti Singh
of Chaudails for uplifting and socially reforming the Bhotia
community. It s chief objects are : (1) t o render service t o the pilgrims
to Holy Kailas and Manasarovar, (2) t o disseminate education, (3) t o
encourage cottage industries, (4) t o construct dharmashalas, t o open
libraries, and render medical aid, and (5) t o purge out the evil
customs in the Bhotia society and in its religious rites. Though
the Society is still in its infancy, much more work is expected of it.
The 'sangha has its dharmashalas at Almora, Khela, Thani-dhar,
Pangu, J~ulgti-gad, Soosa, Sirdang, Malpa, and Garbyang and a
tent-dharmashala at Taklakot. The society is trying t o construct
more dhnrmashalas at Dharchula, Khela, Malpa, Kalapani, and
Manasarovar. Anybody interested in the construction of dlzarrna-
shahs at any of these places Ear want t o contribute anything
towards the cost, should correspond with its Presidelit or Secretary.
Thakur Mohali Singh Garbyal is the President and Thakur Jaman
Sillgh Garbyal and 'I'hakur Param Singh Hyankey, Chaudansi
are the Secretaries:
SEIREE NARAYANA ASHRAMA was started in the year 1936 by
Shree 108 Narayai~a Swamiji Maharaj, on the spur of a iiioulltain
"early 9,OQO feet high, overlooking the serpent-like torrential River
Kali. flowing bt the bottom of a gorge about 5,000 feet deep. The
terrace-cultiwatioll on the foot-hills all round right up to the Iiiver
Kali and the snow-clad range of mountains on the east on Nepal
borders add to the pictur&quetless and charm of the Ashrama. A
spacious two-storeyed building consistihg of an artistically decorated
' 'rll(r ~ L I I ~ I I O I ' h;tn givc.11 :I f l l l l n&oullt of bllo ' Bhotias ' in his Hindi work Kai bs -
"fmt l ~~parovor.
100 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R OV A K
Sankirtan-Hall, Library, and several rooms, a guest-house,
and a big kitchen consisting of several rooms and halls, some k.utiJ,as
for hermits t o stay in for silent contemplation, and the Celestial
Cottage of the Swami himself, spacious lawns, flower-beds, and
vegetable and fruit-gardens have already been constructed.
Pilgrims should not fail t o pay a visit to this beautiful Ashrama and
be benefited by the impressive Sankirtan of the Swami either ou
their outward or return journey.
Shree Swamiji Maharaj lives here with some sadhakas and is help-
ing a good deal for the spiritual and social upliftment of the Bhotias
and other people of the hills by his thrilling Kirtans and Bhajans,
and by his philanthrophy. He has made huge donations to various
institutions like schools, pathshalas, hospitals, dharmashalas, bridges,
etc. We heartily wish him a long life and good health to serve
humanity, both spiritually and materially.
THIRD STAGE
GARBYANG TO TAKLAKOT-319 miles. It is two or three days'
march ; and jhabbus, yaks, mules, and ponies can be had for
conveyance. One shall have t o arrange for the guide and servant and
provisions for the whole journey and back, though ponies shall
have to be changed at Taklakot. At Garbyang there is a Post
Offrce which functions from May 5 to November 30.
LIPU LBKH PASS (16,750) is t o be crossed in this stage, which is
' 209 miles from Garbyang. From the other side of the Lipu Lekh
pass begins the Tibetan territory, which the Indians call Hun Desh
( ~ 9 h). Before starting for the pass one should take out
some lozenges and gur-papari for ready use on the way. If there
is no wind at t hat time one should stop on the pass for a short while
and enjoy the grand view of the scenery on both sides.
TAKLAKOT is at a distance of 11 miles from Lipu Lekh pass and
is the first Tibetan village on this route, where there is plenty of
barley and pea-cultivation. The whole valley consisting of several
villages including Taklakot is called Purang. A big mandi is held
at Taklakot every year from the month of June to the middle of
November, where Bhotia merchants of Darma Pargan~, (Darma
Chaudans, and Byans pnttis) sell their piece goods, ~ I L Y , and other
commodities and buy in exchange or for cash enormoUG quantities
of Tibetan wool, salt, and borax. Walled enclosures are constructed
with gates and tents are set up temporarily on these walls
but there are no roofed houses. There are abot t 200 such tents in
the mandi. When the merchants wind up the mandi, they keep the
gates, tents, and unsold commodities in the cave-houses of sonle
known Tibetan customers and leave the place.
F O U R T H STAGE 101
Barley and pea-sattu (for distributing alms to beggars), dal , etc.
lnay be supplemented from this place for further journey and firearms
and fresh. transport shall have t o be engaged. While in Tibet, one
should not leave any article outside one's tent, for the children,
who often flock round the pilgrims, pilfer them. One should also be
very careful about the Tibetan dogs, especially when approaching
Tibetan shepherd-camps and tents, as they are very ferocious and
at times tear men t o pieces, if they are not alert.
SIMBILING GOMPA is situated on the top of a hill just above the
Taklakot Mandi, overlookiiig the mandi and the neighbouring villages
and the Karnali with its feeders. Adjacent t o the monastery is the
Zong's (Governor's) fort or building (see p. 62).
GUKUNG is a village situated in caves on the right bal k of the Map
chuu or Karnali, about half a mile from Taklakot Mandi.
There is
also a gompa in a three-storied cave. A big market is held by the
Nepalis on the left bank of the Karnali, where large quantities of
wheat, wheat-flour, rice, and barley are exchanged for wool, salt,
borax, and sheep.
KHOCHARNATH Gompa is at a distance of about 12 miles south-
east of Taklakot Mandi, situated on the left bank of the River
Karnali. The village of Khochar belongs t o Bhutan State and is under
the jurisdiction of Tarchl~en Labrang. Pilgrims may visit this place
either on their onward journey to Kailas or on their return journey.
If die takes a pony and starts early in the morning from Taklakot,
one can return back the same evening (see p. 64).
FOURTH STAGE
TAKLAKOT TO TARCHHEN via Manasarovar-62 miles. It is
4 or 5 days' journey. If one wishes t o visit Tirthapuri one may
' go via Gyanima Mandi (49 niiles), then to Tarchhen (28 miles), Kailas-
parikrama, Maips-parikranza, and then t o Taklakot direct; or one
can go froni Taklakot to Ti r t ha~ur i direct (65 miles) via Chhipra la
and Dulchu Gompa.
While engaging pollies at Taklakot one should fix up the following
conditions with the polly and yak-men : (1) If one has t o go to
'Kailas direct& the pollies shall have to go via Manasarovar and not
via Rakshas Ta1.l (2) ~f one is to go via Tirthapuri, the ponies shall
have to ba taken direct to Tarchhen, but. not to ~ y a n r i Gonipa, for
in that way one is deprived of seeing Tarchhen, the flag-staff, and
the Chhorten-katlglli. (3) Kailas-parihrama should begin from
Tarchhen and endathere again, for t&ually pony-men get down to
' Sinw (.I,(! rorll. ~ vil,. I<;lksllils Td is nl~orlt. 4 n~i l rs nh(~rt,cr, pony-mrn t nkc t. 11~ llnillfurmrrl
lPilxrim3 Ilv t,l,:~ t r.o~lt,r>, t l nf , ri \ . i n~ t,hrln of (.hc o ~ ~ ) o r t ~ ~ ~ ~ i l , y uf t l ~ri r s t . ayi ~~g on t,he shores of
"ho Holy Lakc- for tI~rc:o ,itxys.
102 K A I L A S - MA N A S A K O V A R
Barkha direct from Zuthul-phuk Gompa, and one should be
shown all the roadside monasteries.
TOYO is about 3 niiles from Taklakot where there is the samadhi
of General Zoravar Singh called ' Singba-ka-chhorten ' (see p. 79).
GURLA LA : After going for 242 miles from Taklakot, one reaches
the top of Gurla pass (16,200). Here are several big heaps of stones
called laptche, flags, and festoons. Gurla la is a pass in the Mandhata
Range. Mandhata was said t o have done penance at the foot of
these n~ountains, on the shores of Manasarovar.
From the top of
the Gtlrla pass one can command a grand and glorious panoramic
view of the Holy Manasarovar with its crystal clear water of emerald-
green on the right, the Rakshas Tal on the left and the majestic ice-
clad silvery dome of Mount Kailas (Rajitachala) far beyond on tlie north,
and the Mandhata massif on the south, overlooking the two lakes.
MANASAROVAR : See First Wave.
RAKSHAS TAL : See First Wave.
GANGA CHHU is the only outlet of Manasarovar and it flows into
Rakshas Tal : See p. 8.
PARKHA OR BARKHA : The village Parkha (15,050) is midway
between Kailas and Manasarovar. There are two houses here, one
belonging t o the Tasam or Tnrzam (Staging Officer or Transport
Agent) and the other Government Officers' Staging Place. All round
Parkha there are extensive plains and pasture-lands, and a good
number of black tents are pitched by shepherds, where thousands of
sheep, goats, yak, and ponies graze in summer. Hundreds of wild
horses (kyangas) are seen marching on this maidan in perfect military
order. Aeroplanes can very easily land anywhere on this plain, where
the land is firm. It would be more convenient for the, pilgrims
to camp at Gapudosa two miles further than at Parkha.
I ,
The river which falls out in the middle of the northern shore of'
the lake (Rakshas) is formed from the brooks of the valley on both
sides of Kailas, one of its branches passes Parkha. When 1 crossed
the river on July 28, 1908, i t $owed in i w~o branches, one havingtwO
or three cub. m., the other 15 " l. I n fact the three rivers of Kajlas-
the Lha chhu, the Tarchhen chhu, and the Zhong chhu, alollg with
the Karleb form one river, and the Avai~g chhu, philung-kongmal
Philung-pharma, and Philong-yongma form the 1)nm cllhu, the bed
of which is very marshy and is altogether a different river. Sven
Hedin shows only one river in his map, though these are two
different rivers falling into the Rakshas Tal, at two different places
If miles apart. Sometimes, a small brook branches off from the
Zhong chhu and joins the Dam chhu.
FOURTH S T A GE 103
DULCHU GOMPA is 14 miles fown Tirthapuri and 21 miles
from Tar~hhen. Tibetans say t hat the mountain on which the
moliastery is situated has t he appearance of an elephant. The
traditional source of the Sutlej is in the springs situated in the
marshes, at a distance of about 250 yards from the gompa. As sucli,
Sutlej is called Langchen Khambab, river coming out of the rnouth
of an elephant. The Sutlej is a mere brook here. There is one
tztlku-lama and 23 dabas in the gompa. There is only one iiiiage-
hall and Sakya-Thubha is t he principal deity. Tliere are all the
volumes of Kanjur and the chhorten of Lobsang-dechhung, the
founder of the monastery. According t o some, this mas fouildecl in
the last quarter of the 17th century and according t o others in t he
niiddle of the 19th century. There is a flag-staff and somemani-walls
in front of the gompa; there are three houses and some black
tents also, and a freshwater spring very near the monastery.
TIRTHAPURI, called Tetapuri in Tibetan, is 76 miles froill Taklakot,
via Gyanima and 65 miles by the direct route via Chhipra la, which
is 5 to 6 days' march. Tarchhetl is 28 miles from here and is two
days' march ; and Gartok is at a distance of 49 miles from here.
Tirthapuri is situated on the right batik of the river Sutlej, which
is here called Tirthapuri tsangpo. Tirthapuri Goinpa, originally
belonged t o the Hemmis Gompa of Ladakh and was cotiipletely
destrpyed by the Kazhakis in 1041 ; but in 1945-46 the Slzif?jo got
it rebuilt and handed i t over t o the Simbiling C'rompa of 'I'aklakot
from which three officers, t he Nerba (secretary), the Unje (fiujari),
and the Majin (cook) are sent -for a period of three years. Tliere
are 15 nionks in this monastery. Sakya-Thublia (Sakya-Mwi)
is the principal deity in it. There are several big ~nani-walls
outside the gompa. Tirthapuri region was once a huge volcanic area
and there are several extinct craters near the monastery. There
is the image of eDorje-Phangnio ( Vajra- Varahz', the clivine consort
of Demchhog, the #residing deity of Kailas) in a cave-room and
there is a third building of the monastery on the Sindura hill. The
yellow ochre from this hill, called sindurn is taken as tlie pyasad of
Devi by pilgrin;s. Just behind the gompa, situated on its ~nrilzrama,
(here is a heap of horlis and tarchok (flags) representing Dolnia (Tara).
About 300 yards froin the gompa there are soine hot slirings alid
geysers just by the side of the river, whicli cliailge their places from
time to. time and sonietinies disappear. There are some niore hot
springs near Dorje-Phangmo's cave. Round about the hot springs
there are huge moblids of tons of calcium carbonate and sulphate.
This white substance called chugan by Tibetans, is taken as vihhuti
by pilgrims. This place isubelieved by Hi ~l dus t o be the place where
the demoti Bhasniasura was said t o have done penance t o
104 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R OV A R
propitiate Lord Shiva and where he had been burnt down to asllesby his
own villainy, by virtue of the very boon he got from the Lord of
Kailas. It is believed both by Indians as well as Tibetans that the
pilgrimage t o Kailas is incomplete or does not bear full fruit unless
one visits Tirthapuri also.
GURU-GEM : Nearly 5$ miles down Tirthapuri, situated at the
confluence of the Langchen Tsangpo or La'ngchen Khambab (Sutlej)
and Chornak (or Sumnak) is the site of the ruined village of Palkya,
destroyed by Zoravar Singh in 1841. The foundations of the mo~iastery
and some Ladakhi type of chhortens, and a water-mill still stand there
to remind one of the past glory of the place. There are some ruined
columns of buildings on the surrounding mountains, said to be the
royal mansions of the Kings of Kardung.
One Khampa lama of Pembo Sect came here in 1930 and began
to live under the projection of a rock (kern). He became famous
very soon and had built a well-planned monastery in the vast plains
at the foot of his mountain-abode. So this place came to be kno~vn
as Guru-kem or Guru-gem. The monastery was allnost ready in
1934 though finishing touches were given later. The lama spent
thousands of rupees over this gompa and made it the ' Cynosure
of the neighbouring eye '. The monastery itself is called Donga-
thagya-ling. The monastery proper is about 110 feet square and
is two-storeyed with an open space of 140 feet square in front cf the
gompa bounded by several rooms, the whole having the appearance
of a big fort. The duvang or the general image-hall is well decorated
with beautiful frescos and banner-paintings and the special image-
hall behind i t is-furnished with seven highly artistic stucco images of
(1) Thousand-headed Chenresig, (2) Jambyang, (3) ~amhar-jekllar,
(4) Lhasa-chho, (Buddha), (5) Dolma, (6) Chamba, and (7) Demchhog
in Yab-Yzon pose, each 9 feet high. There are Kalzjur and Tanjfiy
library halls on either side before entering the image-hall. Mystic
plays are enacted at the end of the ninth moqth of the Tibetan
year. There are 20 monks here including the founder-lama.
I n the mountain behind the gompa are the abodes of the lama
senior monks and a furlong down the place is a convent or nunllePj
attached to this gompa ; and there are 30 nuns in lit.
~djacenf
to the monastery there are a few plots of land in which
turnip and radish are grown. Due to the over-co;lfidellce ?f
the lama in the efficacy of his mantm-tanfra, Kazhakis besieged
this gompa for two days in 1941 and completely peeled off every-
thing costly in the monastery and carried away 'thousands of rupees
worth of cloth belonging to Johari merchants. During the engagement,
two monks of the monastery and seven Kazhakis died and the
lama was let off completely naked.
Deposits of Calcium
Carbonate near the
t m o d springl at
: Xhyunglung
t [ See pp, 48 & 106
1. Eh;~rrszlglmng
aOmpe end
Ceve-dwelS&p
Ritua' w k &the
erosionZa~acee
and Sprie~ bf
Volcrullo LEV&
[Seb m. 43
18 106
1 74, Mandbab Peaks f-
Cncla La
FOURTH S T AGE 105
This is an interesting place from the view-point of an explorer
and a geographer.
Hardly 300 yards from the confluence of the Sutlej
and the chornak is the confluence of the Langchen Tsangpo coming
from the Indian borders, flowing northwards and the Tirthapuri
tsangpo coming from Rakshas Tal via Dulchu and Tirthapuri Gompa
flowing in a south-westerly direction. The bed of the Langchen
Tsangpo is broad and majestic and carries under normal conditions
nearly twice as much water as Tirthapuri tsangpo, which is like a
brook. When asked why the Langchen Tsangpo was so named, the
guide said that at their confluence Tirthapuri appears like a child
entering into the lap of the mother Langchen Tsangpo, t hat i t carries
much less water than the Langchen, that the Langchen is the biggest
head-stream of the Sutlej though the traditional source is at Dulchu,'
which is meant for religious purposes, and t hat the river is called
Langchen Tsangpo or Langchen Khambab, only after its confluence
with the Tirthapuri branch.
The four rivers, Chhu-nak, Guni-yankti, Darma-yankti, and the
Gyanima chhu, join together t o form Langchen Tsangpo. The Chhu-nak
and the Gyanima branch carry much less water than the other two.
The Guni-yankti (called Chhu-Minjung-small river, in Tibetan) and the
Darma-yankti (Chhu-Minjen-big river) taken individually also, very
often, carry more water than either the Tag tsangpo where it falls into
Manasarovar, or the Tirthapuri tsangpo where it falls into the
Lankchen Tsangpo.
Of the two rivers the Darma-yankti and the Guni-yankti, the
former carries more water than the latter. So, should the quantity
of water be taken into account, the source of Darma-yankti should
be the source of the Sutlej, which is in the Zaskar Range near the
Darma pass. Also because of theafact that the Darma-yankti coming
from the Indian borders is called Langchen Tsangpo by Tibetans
after it receives the Chhu-nak, the Guni-yankti, and the Gyanima
chhu, and of the fact t hat the name Langchen Tsangpo is applied
to the river even hfter the meeting of the Tirthapuri tsangpo but
not to the Tirthapuri tsangpo, i t is quite evident that the Tibetans
believe that the Darma-yankti (or the 1,angchen Tsangpo) to be the
main river 1,angchell Tsangpo (Sutlej). From the view point of
'iuantity of water, the Tirthapuri tsangpo is a mere t ri but aq~,
though held sacred froin the religious point of view.
KHYNGI,UNG (14,000 feet) : Nine and a half miles down
Guru-gem, situated on the left bank, of the Sutlej, is the village
Kll~unglun~. The hole of Khyu~lglung was once a huge volcanic area
and is an interesting subject for study from the geological point of
view. There are a few heuses situated in caves, dug out in a huge
nlound of thousands of tons of calcium deposits. There is a hot spring
106 K A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
near the bridge, where a beautiful dome of stalagmites and stalac-
tites is formed. Crossing the bridge t o the right bank, there is a
vast area of volcanic lava formed into huge columns like 'the ruins
of a fort. Several caves were dug into these spires, most of which
are now desolate. On the top one of the mounds is the monastery
of Khyunglung and on the topmost column is the old fort. There
are 10 dabas in this monastery. Here are the images of Gomb'o and
Jigje in chenkhang, and in duvang those of Chhuku Rimpochhe,
Sange, and Chenresig. Two armours, two iron shields, and two skin
shields of Zoravar Singh are preseived here.
THE DESERTED CAVE-COLONY OF PANGTHA (1 3,100) : Five miles
down Sibchilim Mandi, situated opposite the confluence of the Sib
chhu and Tisum chhu is a huge wall of conglomerate. In it were
dug out a few hundred caves, situated about 400 feet above the
level of the river. They are all now empty and are encrusted with
soot. Roughly speaking, the caves are in two terraces. On the
upper terrace there is a big monastery belonging to the Sakya Sect
(Red Cap Section). The author visited this cave-colony on July
26 and 27, 1946, but was withheld by a huge landslip within a
distance of 20 yards from the gompa. Inside the gompa there are
numerous fresco paintings ; so when he would visit it next time he
proposes t o bring some photos of these frescos and collect some
historical data. When Khyunglung was in a flourishing conditioll all
these caves were occupied both by monks and householders. h e n
now-a-days a few shepherds come here for stay in winter and in early
spring. The author was given t o understand that the monastery was
in a flourishing condition between the 13th and 14th centuv.
Khyunglung is at a distance of about 12 miles from here.
FIFTH STAGE
KAIIAS PARIKRAMA-32 miles. The parikrama ,of Kailas Can
easily be done in three days and hurriedly in two days. Several
Tibetans do the round in a single day, which is 'called ningkor (see
First Wave).
TARCHHEN or DARCHHEN is on the southern side of the Kailas
Peak wherefrom Kailas-parikrama begins. Dar mears dhvnja or
flag and chhen means big ; so Darchhen means a big flag-staff or
Mahadhvnja, named after the flag-staff on the western sidc of Kailas,
which is 34 miles from here. I t is also pronounced Tarchhen.
There
are 3 or 4 houses here.
A sr?all mandi is held here in summer and
there would be about 60 to 80 tents i n all. And it is a big wool-
shearing centre. Tarchhen belongs t o the State of Bhutan ancl a monk-
officer called Labrang lives here to look afte; the Bhutanese p~ssessio~~s
in Tibet. Here is a big building of the Labrang in which there
is his private chapel, but not a gompa. Pilgrims may leave all
their luggage, not needed for the parikrama with some merchant
here aiid collect i t again on their return journey ; by doing so they
would be able to spare a few animals for their servants t o ride on the
ascent to Dolma la. There are three monasteries directly on the
parikrama-route and two more in the interior, on the souther11
slopes, two miles above Tarchhen.
From the hills situated just on the northern side of Tarchhen, one
can enjoy the grand view of the great amphitheatre of the huge
Barkha plain, stretching east t o west as far as the eye could travel,
intercepted by a network of winding streams and the hills gradually
niounting up to the Mandhata and Nepal peaks with the Rakshas
Tal-blue picturesquely set in it.
SERSHUNG is at a distance of 3 i miles from Tarchhen where there
is a big flag-staff called Tarbochhe or Darbochhe (see p. 10). Within
200 yards from this place is Chhorten-kangtii (two-legged). Men
and animals pass through the arch of this lnonument which is
coilsidered an auspicious act.
DOLMA LA or Dcvi's pass is the greatest height which one has t o
llegotiate in this pilgrimage, and i t is 18,600 feet above sea-level.
GOURI-KUND: About 200 yards down the Dolma pass is Gouri-
kund (see p. 11).
SRRDUNG-CHUKSUM and Tso KAPALA : See p. 11 and 12 and Route
Table 11.
SIXTH STAGE
MA N A S A R O V A R - P A R I K R A ~ ~ ~ actual circumference of Mana-
sarovar is 64 miles alld the parikrama can be done in four days.
Those who wa~l t t o do the parilrama of Manasarovar also can do
so direct from Zuthul-phuk Gompa and finish the combined circuit
of Kailas aiid Iaaiias both, either at Gurla la or at Taklakot (see
First Wave aiid Rgute Table 111).
KAI LAS - MANASAROVAR
FOURTH WAVE
ROUTES
K A f & A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
KEY TO THE USE OF ROUTE TABLES
I n these Route Tables the very first numeral indicates the number of the stage and after
t hat the nama of the actual staging place of some important place is given. Then the dis.
tance between two places and t he total distance are given in two sets of small brackets; and
t he height of a place in feot above sea-level, if any, is given in large brackets. The mileages,
given witbout brackets a t t he beginning of a sentence in t he description of the routes, or
in tho middlo of a sentence after semi-colon, rep~esent t he distance between two consecutive
places. Puller details are given in footnotes. For economy of 8ptlCe lines in the Route
Tables had to be omitted.
ABBREVIATIONS
P.
T.
H.
D.B.
I'ost Officc.
Telegraph Officc.
Hospital.
Dak Bungalow.
F. Forest Rost House.
R. Rest House.
S. School Building.
I D. Uharn~ushala.
C. Camping ground.
l e Camping ground with camping
parapets or walled enclosures.
tea Tea shop.
ni. mile or miles.
( 1 ) Information doubtful.
GRADATION IN ASCENTS AND DESCENTS
Gentlo up.
Rlild ascent.
Aacent.
Steep ascent.
Very steep ascent.
Almost perpendicular ascent.
Mild descent. .
Descent.
Steep descent.
Very steep descent.
Falling descent.
All the Tibet;bn names are given as they are actually pronounced but not sa they are
written, for nearly half the l ot t en written are silent.
Every effort is made to give a
correct a ~ronunciation as r,ossihle of all tho Tibetan words.
The Dronunciation varies from
district to' district.
Vary often ch or J is pronounced as j (Chiu ns Jiu and Yogi as Jogi), k asg (Kangri
aallgri), p as b (Parkha, a8 Barkha), ant1 t as d (Tarchhen as Darchhen).
Ts is almost
equivalent to a, sound midway betweon ch and chh, as Tsepgye or Chhepgye.
4
TABLE I
FIRST ROUTE TO HOLY KAILAS AND MANASAROVAR
FROM ALMORA VI A TJPU L E KH PASS-238 MI LES
Almora (0) (0) [5,414], District Headquarters, P., T., H., D.B.,
F., Anandamayi dharmashala, hotels, bazaars, Motor
Agencies, Railway Out Agency, etc., Haldwani Railway
station is 41 miles by foot and 88 miles by motor,
lm. Dunga-dhara Toll-bar, shops, tea,
Qm. Baldhoti, pony-halting place,
lm. Christian Mission Sanatorium,
l t m, Chitai, shops, tea, dhara (water-tap), temple, snow-view,
l i m. steep descent t o Chaukhutiya or Petsal, shops, cross the
bridge on a stream, temple, tea, from here gentle ascent
up t o Bade-chhina,
i m. shop, tea, dhara,
i m. cross a narrow suspension bridge,
pm. Seel, shop, tea,
Bade-chhinal (8%) (8Q) [4,000] l m. P. , F., S., bazaar, tea, mangoes
can be had from here up t o Dharchula in season,
lm. Supai, shop,
lm. steep ascent through pine forest,
* lm. mild descent,
1. Dhaul-chhina2 (6) (1 3 i ) [6,000] 2m. steep ascent t o Dhaul-chhiiia,
P., D.B., shops, tea, cool place ; from here coiltinuous
steep descent of 5m. up t o Bhaura-ka-gadhera,
Bungs (28) (16) 24m. descent through a thick forest t o Burlga, shops,
tea, halting place of pony-men, good staging place,
2m. further descent through pines to Rhaura-ka-gadhera,
Kanari-chhina (~2) (18:) #m. P. F., shop ; t m. steep descent ; l i m.
Jalikhet, shop, mango groves,
&m. ascent t o Dungralekh-chhina, plenty of mangoes in the
neighbourhood ; l m. steep descent,
l&n. mild descent up t o the suspension bridge on the Sarayu,
I
, cross the river by bridge:' t o
' From here one pnth go09 t o Mirt,oln ( 5 i ~ . by foot.pnt.h nnrl 7m. by bridlepath)
Shreo ~ d s h n n Pr r mj i (Mr. Nixon) and bhrer Anandnl)rivnji (Rfnjor Alcxnntler) and
'Omn other western sflrlhflkfl~ had stn&d an aahrflm by nnmo Ut t nr Brindnvan, where they
hRd built
snlnll tvr111)lr of Lord Kri.sllna.
I t is n beentifill spot \vort4h visiting. . ~ a g e ~ h v a r
I n 2m. from hore.
From hero one pnt,h*gore townrtls onst t,o Girtola Rm., and one p ~ t h RonR towards
to Binanr 6m. which in a good h ~ ~ l t h - r r ~ o r t , s i t ~~nt e d nt n height of 7,913 feet. Five
filrlong~ before ronchinR 1 )hnnl.chhinrc, is n
rnlled K~I I I I , with two shop8 nnd n dham.
3 Then?! is n hig mango grove, 2 firlongn before ~ n r h i n g t he bridge, wherrfrom one can
get Rood graft mangoes,
112 K A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
Seraghat-malla (51) (24) Seraghat, situated on the left bank of the
Sarayu, shops, tea, hot place, plenty of plantains and
mangoes, (from here one road goes to Pithofagarh and
Tankapur Railway Station via Gangolihat) ; a little
down the shops is a small Shiva temple, opposite which
the stream Jaigan joins the Sarayu; the confluence is
beautiful,
2. Shalya (2i ) (264) 2i m. steep ascent to Shalya, shop, tea, dhara,
i m. further ascent t o Nart~va-ka-ghol, shop, tea,
4m. steep descent, cross the bridge on Padyali,
Ganai (3i ) (30) 22m. mild descent t o Ganai, P., S., shop,
tea, dlzara, half a mile away from the road is the F.,
' hot place,
i m. Tapovan, shop, tea, neat halting place,
l f m. Simalta, shop : lm. Sata, shop.
l m. cross the Bistardyo suspension bridge on the Kulru-gad
($m. before reaching the bridge there is a small temple
of Vishvanath Mahadev, situated in a grove),
Banspatan (6) (36) 1Bm. Banspatan, one of the beautiful spots on
the route ; several valleys meet, terrace-cultivation, steep
gorges, narrow valleys, variety of cultivation, shop, tea,
l i m. Godi-gad, shop, tea, pony-men's halting place,
t m. Shyali, shop, tea,
Suklyadi (3) (39) l m, shop, tea, halting place of pony-men,
$
lm. even road,
2m. steep ascent through pines t o Berinag-top (Bageshvar 1s
23m. from here) ; from here up to the bridge of
Gurghatiya (62rn .) it is one continuous steep descent, very
slippery during rains, a
3. BERINAG' (34m.) (42i) [7,000] i m. Berinag or ~eri nag, P-I
H., I?., S., shops, tea, last place to gqt sweets, Vijay
dharmastrala, Tea Iistate, Nag temple is & a mile away from
the bazaar, cool place, from here firie view of the snow-
peaks of Badrinath, Nandarlevi, Nandakot, Trisull
Panchachulhi, etc., and Chhiplakot, beautiful scenery
1 Int endi ng pilgrims t o Jngeshvar, Gangolil1;rt and ~nt nl a-Rhl ~vanes' hvar, should 1ellvo
Bade-chhina for thcso placos and como back t o t ho main road again hero.
Almors to
Bade-chhinn. Rim., t o Penwanaula 54rn., Jagc.shvilr 3m., Noini Bm., Herbra 2f m. , Tall&-
Seraghat Igm.. Gangolihnt et m. , Patnln-Rlluvancrhvnr Ba r n . , nnd Rcrinng IIm.
53m.).
Those who wish t o visit Ragushvar q n t he return journov should go thore from Bennt%
and return to Alrnorodirect.
Uerinng t oSani -odyar lorn., I?ngesllirar l : j m. , Ta k ~ I ~ 12m.9 and
Almora 16m. (t ot al 5Om.). Someshvar 1s 14m. from B ~ g r ~ h v a l I,y footpath wherefrom Almors
is 26m. by bridlo-pnth. Baijnath is 13m. from Ba ge s hv~r by britllo-path, from where
Yomeshvar ifl l am. (via 1Ca11sarli) hy motor ronrl, a ~ t d t11oner Almorn 1s 42m. Bu~efi wR1I.
1n.rly run from Baijnath ( Gar ~i r ) t o Almorn nntl Knthgodnm.
up t o the end of the descent (from here one path goes t o
Patala-Bhuvaneshvar and Gangolihat) ,
lib. descent t o Mund-katta-Ganesh, shop, plantains,
Mangroli (12) (44) i m. descent t o Mangroli, shop, milk, plantains,
good dhara, nice halting place,
Gartir (p) (442) f m. descent to Gartir, shops, tea, plenty of plantains
and milk, good halting place,
i m. descent t o Baghora, shop,
gm. descent t o Danuthal or Chaubat, shop ; l m. Balgari,
shop, tea,
l i m. descent t o I,iktad, shop, guava gardens ; &m. descent
to Gurghatia-bridge, cross the bridge on the stream,
lm. ascent ; t m. Amtad, big village,
4. Thal (7) (51;) [3,000] l;m. Thal, shops, tea, hot place,
plenty of plantains and mangoes, at the end of the bazaar,
a little beyond the bridge is the beautiful stream of
Bard-gad, (there is a F., on the top of a mountain [3,400],
situated in the midst of a pine reserve) ; Thal is situated
on both sides of the river Rama-Ganga, cross the suspen-
sion bridge on the Rama-Ganga to its left bank, here
is an old temple of Baleshvar Mahadev, a big fair is
held on Vaishakha Purnima which lasts for a week ;
nearby is a small hill-stream (one road goes to Pithora-
*
garh, which is 28m. from this place),
Am. ascent to S., shop1, (from here one road goes to Milam
via Tejam, 12+472=59$m.),
3m. steep ascent (ascents up to Sandev with reliefs at intervals),
2im. Sata, one Missionary building, Berinag is seen from here,
l i m. Mapani, a hill stream falling down from above,
Sandev (72) (594) [6,400] lm. F. 200 yards above the road,
fine, view of the snows,
im. shop, tea, dhara,
5- Didihat (29) (62) [6,000]
2m. steep descent to Didihat, P.,
Middle School, shops, tea ; this place is called Diktad ;
the village Didihat itself is situated in the beautiful
I
,
valley of the river Charma one mile below the road,
3Qm. ascent with reliefs up to Kana-dhar, shops, tea, from
- here begins the state of Askot ; am. dhara2 ; l m. Chorpani,
' Abollt gm. beyond this place, situated at, a distance of 200 yards on the right side of
the main rond thero i~ a temple called Ek-hatiye, deval (01 temple carved out of a rock by
a One-handed architect). "~et ween the deval and the pilgrim route, flow two streams with
two Pretty-looking small waterfalls. The temple is carved out of one 8ingle boulder 30'
long, 17' brnad, and 17' high, rind thofemple it.self is 74' long, 3 g broad, and 10' high.
Abollt 200 yards up t,he roacc fit tho place called Dharmagrrrh, a High School is being
'tartea by Shrce Neraynna Swemiji in an extensive plot of about 25 acres of land. An
qncllltllral ro~enrch institute alao is under contemplation,
. -
114 KA I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
ASKO'I" (7) (69) [5,000] 2m. steep descent to Askot, H., pel
F., S., D., bazaar, temple, Rajbar or Zamindar of Askot
lives here,
I
3im. steep descent t o Garjiya suspension bridge through a
pine-forest, very slippery during rains, there is a beauti-
ful waterfall sliding down from the top of a mountain
over the rocky wall in several ramScations ; cross the
bridge on the Gon:Ganga t o its left bank, here is a small
shop, (from here one road leads up the Gori-Ganga to
Johar), a few yards beyond the bridge at . two or three
places, stones often fall on the road when the weather
is dry, since the wall of the mountain- is highly sandy,
l m. plain road (from here up t o Dudigaon i t is a steep ascent
of f m. by the main road),
6. Jauljibi (5) (74) [2,100] fm. leaving the main road to the
left, down along the bank of the river Gori to Jauljibi,
the confluence or sangam of Gori -and Kali (see p. 96),
P., S., from here up t o the Lipu Lekh pass the route
goes almost along the River Kali, the boundary line of
India and Nepal,
i.m. ascent t o Dudigam, winter quarters of Darma Bhotias ;
2im. ascent with reliefs here and there to Khinkhola;
l m. ups and downs ; 2m. steep descent to ,the
village Tola, the village proper is situated a little above
the road, t he view of Nepal side is very beautiful; am.
descent to Band ; am. a stream ; i m. steep ascent
to Venda,
Balvakot (6h) (804) [3,000] $m. descent t o Balvakot, the village
is situated above the rotd, S., D., shop, hot place, winter
residences of Darma Bhotias, from here up to Pangu
one comes across poisonous serpents ; a .furlong beyond
cross the bridge on a big stream,
lm. Kuchiya, Government C., D.B., shop,' hamlet, two fur-
longs before reaching Kuchiya there is a beautiful
freshwater spring flowing out as a small brook, on the
left bank of which there is a small temple, a dhavrnashala,'
and a shop,
l m. Nantadi, hamlet; l i m. Chharsam; Bin, nllld ascent,
1 A~8i - kol means 80 forts ; it ie said that 80 kings nlled here once ; hence it i~ called A~ k o t .
H. , P. , and F. are situated tat the jr~nct~ion of tho Pithoraga,rh and 4lmora rords, which i8
from Aakot propr.
Tnnnkpur is 90m, from here and ta motor rind is under conatnlctlOn
from Tnnakpnr to Pithor~qnrh. The routo is a.s follows : Tannkpur to Sukhidnng camp
or Malijhari 9m. (Punyagiri 1)evi i~ 7m. from here and as well from Tnnnkpnr), t o Deori
am., Champ~vxt 1.5m. (hlaytbvati A ~ h r ~ m is 2m. up thin place), Lohaghat om. , Ghhira gm.,
Qurna 10% Pithoragarh Rm., Kenali-chhinta lorn., Singnlikhtan gm., and Arkot 61%
(tottal 90m.).
lm. steep ascent to Chholioki-dhar, just opposite this place,
on the other side of the Kali, there is a big village with
extensive terrace cultivation with huge plots of sugar-
cane plantations beginning from the edge of the river
to the top of the mountain which presents a grand
spectacle,
Kalika (6) (86i ) lm. steep descent to the village Kalika, while
descending to Kalika one can have a fine view of
the fields below and the winding and descending Kali,
cross the Kali stream here ; km. beautiful spring of
Kali under the shade of a huge tree, the village Kalika
is situated on either side of the stream Kali ; fm.
Gothi, winter houses of Darma Bhotias ; fm. Nigalpani,
cross the stream, winter houses of Darma Bhotias; i m.
Phultadi, village ; hm. cross the Galati-gad, i m. winter
houses of Bhotias on both sides of the stream,
7. Dharehulal (10) (909) [3,000] l$m. Dharchula, P., D. B., D., S.,
shops.
Tapovan2 (2) (929) 2m. Tapovan, shop,
&TI. Ranthi or Tanthra-gad, flowing in two or three branches,
(about 2 miles up above on the top of a mountain isthe
big village of Ranthi),
3m. ~ul a- gad, which presents a beautiful view by its coming
*
very precipitously through and over huge boulders
forming a series of cascades with every now and then
a deep rocky pool, cross the stream by bridge,
lm. from here one path goes to the village Jumma and thence
to Chhiplakot (see p. 97),
am. steep descent to Yels-gad or Rel-gad, which comes from
Chhiplakot mountains, this is the boundary line of the
Sta,te of Rajbar of Askot, cross the bridge on the stream,
Rai Sahib Pt. Prom Vallr~bh or pt . Haridatta may be consulted for help ; h o r ~e con-
veyance ends here; coolies to be engaged from here up to Gerbyang or to Khela ~f through
~ooliee are not available ; plenty of plnntains and mangoes are available, and guavas on
return journey ; hero nre willt,er residences of Byans Bhotias ; down below, on the Kali is e
bridge connecting Dllnrchula, with Nepal State, where there is posted n Nepali Lieute-
pant with 50 policemen ; hundreds of tins of gheo is exported from the Nopal side to A1mol.a ;
good ghee is sold Ilt tho rate of Rs. 3 per seer. There is a great need of a good dl ~rmashul u
at nherchula, though the Darlna Sevn Sanghe has hired a house for a, ten~porary dharlna-
ahla.
UP to 1932 or so, thero used to be a contre of Remkrishna RZission here, which was
8brtod through the ~t rennons offoforto of Shrimnti Rume I kvi of Ryans, hut i t
all wound
Now tho Ashram is controlled and rrpnirod at e groat cost by Shroe Narayana Snamiji
Maharaj. The 1)arma S e ~ e Sangha, is trying t o take chargo of tho Ashram from the corlrt
Of Wards, Rnjbnr of Askot and expand i t into a big centre for pilgrim8 to Keilas. Attnclled
to the Aehram is tl small Shi vahya and a dhurmaahu? ; 200 yard8 from hcre are some
thermal spring8 sitriatod on the h a ~ k of the River Kall, which will be under water when
the river is in flooda.
am. shop,
+m. Yela, shop, tea, D., (the village Sakuri is on the moun-
tain a mile from here) ; &m. Rounti-gad,
c
8. KHELA' (8) (100;) [5,500]- 2m. steep ascent to Khela, shop,
D. ; P. and S. are situated in the village which is im.
from here,
l i m. steep and winding descent to Tova-ghat [3,600] ; cross
the roaring, foaming, and jumping Dhauli-Ganga to its
left bank by a wooden bridge ; the Dhauli or Dhaul
comes from Darma pass and falls into the Kali-Ganga
$m. down the bridge ; grand view of the Dhauli from
the bridge ; from here begins the Chaudans Patti of
the Bhotias,
3m. very steep ascent t o Thani-dhar [9,000 ?I, from here
very fine view of Khela and the surroundings ; here is
seen the first heap of stones, with flags placed on the
pass, a hundred yards further D., dhara,
Pangu (6) (1069) [6,900] 1 gradual ascent to the first
Bhotia village of Pangu on this route, Middle School,
many walnut trees ; from here upwards provisions can
be procured from any of the villagers, as they are all mer-
chants; there are some sort of dharmashalas in every village,
l i m. descent t o Jungti-gad stream [6,698], D.,
9. Soosa' (3) (1094) [8,400 ?] l f m. steep ascent to Soosa, s.: D..
provisions can be had from the village, plenty of
potatoes, cold place,
Tithlakot (la) (1 11) [9,068] l i m. ascent to Tithlakot ; Dharma
Dvara, a bell dedicated t o a goddess, piles of stones and
flags, good camping place, no village or shop ; but midway
between Soosa and Tithlakot there is a small D.,
Sirdang (a) (1112) f m, steep descent to the village. Sirdang, SSI D*
by the road side, good halting place,
Sirkha (#) (1124) im. further descent to Sirkha, which is a furlollg
below the road, P., S., D., shop, one furlong above
the road is the garden of a Missioilary where peaches, apples,
1 This is a ~ o o t l hoalth-resort; and the peculiar setting of tho mo~l nt ~ai n~ all round adds
spepial charm t o the placr ; visitors would do well to stag here for a roll 10 of daye. A
kind of spice palled Ohzmq~ri is available hare, which is usad lor propri ng chi t ney ; best
~ h e e can ho had from hore for further journey. Kunwnr Prat ap Sin h, shopkeepor, would
Ioo* t o 811 uort. of con, hr t ~ lor the pilgrimn. Promva Viahmmaahn%, a tomple. and. vdi
(platform) nm under project here.
I f the District Board t a k o ~ a littlo interost it Can
the road rrom Dharchula to Khele negotiable for ponies, by ror,structing throe iron prdm
brid~lefl 011 tho way, when Khele will bocorne centre for Kailen pilgrims, for picking
ooolles.
From l ~ere one road qoea t o Keilae via ayani me (flee Second Route to Kailw)'
Khar-odyar or Denth-Cavo is 9fm. from hero (see p. 97:.
Threo miles eaut of this village situated on n beautiful spot i u tho Shree NnrnJ""'
Ashrams of Shree Narayana Swemiji Mahere] of South India (seo p. 98).
TABLE: I i i i
and .pears can be had either' on the outward journey
or on.the return journey ; big walnut trees (a little down
*
below the place is the village Rung, wherefrom one can
get fresh vegetables),
lgm. descent t o Sumariya or Samre, sometimes a shop,
2fm. very steep ascent through thick forest to Rungling or
Sumariya-dhar [9,840], a heap of stones with flags,
temple,
3im. very steep descent through a thick forest to the stream
Sinkhola-gad, (midway there is a spring), cross the two
branches of the stream by wooden bridges,
l i m. gentle up, t o the village Galla [7,000], walnut trees and
oaks,
10. Jipti (112) (123a) [8,000 ?] lam. gentle up, to Jipti, one
shop with a neat dharmashala attached t o it, dhara,
Kali which is missing from Khela, appears here again
flowing several hundred feet down below in a gorge,
provisioils for Malpa should be taken from here,
Im. descent t o a place called Bindakot or Binju-kuti, dhara,
Byans Patti begins, from here up to the Najang falls
it is called Nirpani ; from Bindakot up t o Garbyang
it is the worst part of the whole journey,
, 2im. veqy steep and often steppy descent to Jumli-odyar
also called Najang-talla or Lagorphu, hill-stream nearby,
Kali also is very near, (crossing a wooden bridge on
the Kali t o its left bank, the road used to be on Nepal
side for about a mile, but now the road is on this side of
the river), caves, Bhotia camping place,
im. (on Nepal side Tampku-gad or Thing waterfalls, about
60 feet high, falling into the Kali-Ganga below ; 3/8m.
veLy steep and steppy ascent ; 3/8m. very steep
and steppy descent ; #in. plait1 road, 3/8m. steep
ascent':
falls ( 62) (120) i n 1 steep descent to the beautiful Najang-
gad waterfall about 70 feet high, the stream also is coming
a
r clown precipitously foamiiig and jumping, forming
cascades, cross the wooden bridge on the stream,
gm: steep ascent to Bola s ass' [8,000], here Kali is flowing
like a reptile, 1,600 feet to 2,000 feet down below through
a steep-walled rocky gorge ; and it takes a sliarp hair-pin
bend, '
* From hero, going over the Najrng falls there riaed to be the old Nirponia rorlto direct
Qall.-gam wit,hollt touching ,Jipti. There used t o be scarcity of water on that route,
narno Nirprcnie (waterloas place). Now i t htls fallen out of 1180.
t m. steep descent t o Lung-tiyar, caves, (100 yards below the
road is a luke-warm water spring, the water of which is
sweet and does not smell of sulphur or any other subs-
tance) ; i m. steep descent ; Qm. Bhotia padav of
Malpa, cross the Malpa-gad by bridge,
11. Malpa (2Q) (131Q) (7,200) 200 yards ascent to Malpa, D., mait-
runners' hut, no shop, but firewood and wheat-flour
may be had from the mail-runner, cold place; from
Malpa t o Garbyang the road is very dangerous and full
of hopeless landslips during rainy season,
2Qm. steep ascent with reliefs here and there to Pelsiti, C.,
caves, a little before this place there are two
big fans of waterfalls falling like shower-baths on to
the road from a height of over 300 feet; path is very
slippery here ; 2m. ascent t o Lamari [8,000], fields
of Budi, no village ; 2Qm. steep ascent to Kothla,
fields of Budi (am. before reaching the end of the
ascent a D.) ; $m. steep descent to Pala-gad or Budi-
gad, cross the stream by bridge,
Budi (8$) (140;) [8,500] lm. gentle up to the village Budi,
situated a furlong away from the road, S., a big Bhotia
village, provisions can be had from the village, fine view
of the snow-slopes of Namjung on Nepal side just opposite
the village ; two crops are grown in this village ; irom
this village upwards all people get down to ~harchda
and t o other warmer places in winter, only a few people
live in the villages to guard them,
2Qm. very steep asceilt t o a very narrow pass [10,500], flags,
a little further is a small temple with several flags, there
are three houses of Budyals here, where several Years
back Tibetans used t o come in the beginning of winter
to exchange their salt for grain,
3/8m. C., on a plateau called Chheto-tha~lga, extending for
about 3 furlongs, one of the most beautiful spots full
of flower-beds,
i m. very steep and slippery descent through pipes to a
small stream ; Brn. t o Chhongphu chhu stream, C ; Zm.
gentle ascent t o the village-bell, on the way there are
beautiful grassy plains bedecked with flowers of various
hues and kinds, on plants hardly rising above
the ground ; these flower-beds are )simply charming ;
T A B L E I 119
12. carbyangl
(6) (146a) [10,320] gm. descent very slippery and
muddy if rainy, t o Garbyang, last Indian village on
this route, last P., D.B., S., D., Surmadevi aharmashala,
Dalip Singh aharmashala, biggest Bhotia village of about
200 houses,
irn. very steep and slippery descent to the bank of the Kali,
i m. confluence of the milky Tinker River and the ovaltine-
coloured Kali2 ; cross the wooden biidge of Sita-pul
on the Kali t o its left bank to Nepal side, here is the
Nepali Police Chauki3 ; i m. up along the Kali,
lim. ascent with reliefs, cross the Jhakti-nala ; am. steep
ascent, from here fields, campings, and huts of Kauva-
Talla begin,
lfm. coduence of the Kali and the Kuti rivers ; the confluence
is at a distance of 2 or 3 furlongs down below the road.
Though the River Kuti is almost twice or thrice as big
as Kali, the Kali is taken to be the main river ; from here
begin the fields, huts, and halting sheds of Kauva-Malla ;
Kauva is the temporary habitation of the villagers of
Gunji during cultivation season ; lam. fields of Kauva;
i m. cross the Shangduma bridge on the Kali to its right
bank to Indian side; lam. Larela camps ; l i m.
Singdudup-gad ; 2m. further cross the bridge to the left
t
bank of the Kali.
13. Kalapani4 (11) (166i) [12,000] a few yards further up is a big
spring or springs gushing out of huge boulders situated
' The guide, Patvari, School Master, or Post Master may be consulted for fulrther pre-
Parations ; coolies should be discllamrged and ponies or jhdbbua should bo engaged up t o Takla.-
kot; tents and woollen bla,nkets can be got 06 hire ; aU provisiona n.vailable ; wheat, barley,
P O W (buck-wheat) are grown hem ; potatoes, cabbage, must,ard, turnip, and a few othcr
V%etebles can be had on the return journey ; very cold ; there are fresh water dharas but
wnbr is acenty, and the Kali is a t distance of about Om. down below. The people of
Gerby8ng aro called Qarhynls, of Budi Budyalg, of Kuti Kut,yals, of Chhangru Chhang-
Ve19, and 80 on. A littl*,before reaching Garbyang nnd for thrcn nllles onwn.rds one comes
"r039 gigantic, stratified walls of en.rtll and sand, in all probnbilitg. tho bed of the river
Once millions of yon.rs ago. Thoy would be an interesting ~ t u d y to the geologist.
From hero one road g o c ~ to the: village Kl ~t i which i~ 18~111. from Gnrbynng.
I n t he
neighbourhood of t.ho
nre follnd vn,ri,?t,irs of nlarinc fousils inrluding pyrited ones.
'P, bcvond q u t i there is n l~lncc cr~llocl Jolinkong, wl ~rro a rmn11 n~n.ndi is hcld ; 13m. ba-
O?d this pln?o is Ln.mpiyn pn9s ; rnidwa.~ betweon Jolillknng nl~tl T.ampiya pass nrc Cl~hota
kallaa and Manmnrovnr, ~vhiell nre ~ o ~ t , l ~ visit,ing.
t m. up tlie~bridgo situatetl 011 t,llo tablclnntl i,r tho villago (!hhnllgru (0,990) of the
Bh o t i ~. There is a big nllont bm. ahovo tile villn,gc, consitlered to
be the nbodo
evil ~pirit~s, whore tl~oro nro sovorn] human skeletons.
Whcn t,hcre bmko out
epidemic
amallpox, the villagers fled n,way to t,ho cave with all their I)elon~inpn, where all perished
doe to the semo disen.so. ut R~vor al weird storie# Rro woven round the cave. 12 u1ilt.S
from Cbbengro up tho Ti z o r "ivor is tho village Tillker. The inhnbitnnts of botsh tllefx
vlll%ea are Bhotins, of tho snruo stock as of Dnrme Bhot.
. Tho ~pri ng is said t o be the 'L:-aditionel Source of the Kali, though tho mn,ill river
In
from tho I,ipn 1,ekll pnS8.
~ h o sprillg in dodicat,od to Icnli, so i t is callrd K~UP!I~~.
which is corrllpted into I<nlnpani (hleckw~torj. Tlla stonosover which the wnterof tllesprlng
K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
at the foot of a mountain.
The water of the spring
is flowing out as a small brook into the foaming river
below after a few yards' course ; the spring ' is called
Kalapani, and the brook, Kali River ; as such Nepal
Territory ends here.
im. cross the stream of Pankha-gad by a wooden bridge,'
*m. confluence of the Gariphu and the Yirkha-gad (Kali);
a little further cross the Kali by the bridge to its right
bank, a little cultivation, (2 furlongs up this place,
'situated on the left bank of the Gariphu-gad, are the
ruins of two big buildings),
l m. steep ascent t o Kirmo-kong, shop, two dharmashalas,
a dhara, jhabbzl-chaukidar lives here, fine view from here,
lm. Ngyur, camping parapets, D., cross the Ngyur-gad,
1/8m. Talla Tara, 2 dharmashalas,
3/8m. ascent t o Malla Tara, 2 D.,
Nga-vidang (44) (1604) i m. ascent to Nga-vidang, 2 D., pema
shrub for fuel, Lilingti flowing in a broad valley meets
the Kali on its left bank, scarcity of fuel, good pasture
for ponies ; from here up t o Lipu 1,ekh pass it is a steep
ascent,
#m. ascent t o Chil, C., cross stream,
Shangcham (12) (162i) [15,000] lm. ascent to Shangcham, Dm,
with 2 rooms, damp, very cold,
l i m. ascent t o Chinku, foot of the Lipu Lekh pass,
LIPU 1,EKH pASS2 (3&) (165i) [16,750] 2m. steep ascent to
the Lipu Lekh pass, called Changlabochhe la by the
Tibetans, festoons, flags and heaps of stones,
2m. very steep descent into Tibet t o Namashen, travellers
usually stop here t o take their tiffin after crossing the
pass,
is flowing ere also black, so some think t hat t he spring is calleu Kalapani (black water)-
There are camping places on either side of the spring. From here for over a mile
the
fields of Uarbyals.
Pony.-men often make a halt at Shangoharn which is a very cold
8% as far as possihlo, pl l gri m~ ~houl d atart early from Kalrcpani and try to cross tho LIPn
Lekh the same day and rearh Taklakot, instead of halting at Shangcharn or at Pals. Keep
some sour qrtirles in the pocket for use on the way and st art from Kalaoani.xt 4 or
1. the mornlnpand cross the Lipu Lekh pass before t,hr sun gets hot m t hat you might not
milch exhaustion while ascending to the pwa.
This place is called Pankha by Bhotias, but the whole aroa from kalapani
up to this place is called Knlspani, by down country people ; herc are four or five hut9
the
farmers, often used by pilgrim8 for night halt, if vnrant. Here i~ seen tho first heap of
mani-stoneo.
In June one may havo to go on anow for a furlong before machina tho pa@e but
little ice in July.
This i~ the b o ~i n d a r ~ lino of Indin and Tibet.
Rost a while on the P"
if i t is llot windy, enjoy the grand view of both t he aides of the pass, take a little tiffin qnd
move on. From the pass right up t o P R ~ R i t is one con?inuoua de.qcent, tho first half bang
very steep.
One can have a good view of Mendhata from here.
Mileegea given in Tibetan ere s ubj ~c t t o slight corrections,
78. The Holy Mount Kailss (Southern View) Gombo-phang (Ravan Parvat) on the left
and Kysngs in the foreground
Photo by Court ~sy of Mr. Salim ATi, Bombay [See pp. 102 & 126
77. Tarchhen
[ See p. 106
00. Nyanri Gomps, the
fir& Monwteq? of
Esilm
[Bee pp. 10 & 26
I I
86. The EO~~I C&~~BB
between ahen-
C' . :
T A B L E I 121
l i m. further very steep descent t o Komba-chhumi, cross
the Lipu Lekh stream t o its right bank,
2m. descent t o Pala-kong, D. with four rooms,
Pala (6) (1714) [14,000] i m. further descent t o Pala, 2 D.
with four rooms in each, extensive campings, if one is
exhausted he can stop here and go t o Taklakot nest
day early in the morning,
t m. further on is t he confluence of the stream Tisun1 or
Chhumi-guldum coming froni the Lipu Lekh aiid Jungjin
clzhu coming from Tinker Lipu Lekh [18,300] ; cross
tlie Juiigjin chhu by bridge, the animals have t o wade
the stream ; this stream swells in the afternoon and
sometimes beconies unfordable, it1 which case one has t o
stop t hat day there and cross the river nest morning,
l i m. down along the river ; water from this river is diverted
into small canals and taken t o several villages of Takla-
kot for cultivation,
12,. further 011 is the village 'rashigong with two houses, then
through barley and pea fields,
lam. t o the village Magrum, several houses, one is reminded
of the plains with vast fields aiid canals, there are pa w
chakkis or gharats (flour mills run by water-power),
crois the river by bridge t o its left bank and proceed to,
14. Taklakotl (5) (1764) (13,100) 4m. Taklakot Mandi.
1/8m. ascent ; 3/8m. steep descent t o Guk~uig, village in caves,
gonipa, Tibetan Governinelit Rest House very near
the bridge, cross the bridge on the Kan~al i or Rlay chhu
t o its left bank ; 1:ere is tlie xnandi of the Nepalis
where rice, wheat, and barley are sold and exchanged,
Zo~~gpoiis Trade House,
lnl. t o the village Chhemo-chhorten,
here are two big chlzor-
tens by' the roadside, said to be the memorials of Guru
Rimpochhe according t o some ; and according t o some
others, they are of the 1,ieutenallts of Zoravar Singh ;
c 1 barley and pea cultivatioi~ up t o Garu,
It is also rnlletl l'ilithnnkn, .qitrlnt,otl rill n narrow l)ln,trarl nt t,ho foot of hill 300 feet
on which st and tho fn1nou.q SimI,iling Golnpa, nntl t he Zongpan'a (Governor's) residence.
There ~ C O 300 t o 500 tellts of Bynne, Chn.lldsno, a.nd I)nrmn Bhotias in t ho Mnndi :
provi-
ni nn~ and other roqriiromolltn cnn 1," hn,(i froin tihe mandi ; there is s c ~ r r i t ~ y of fuel horn.
Cnnv~yenco errange~nont ~s shollltl be tnnrlo horo f(!r further jorirneg t o Knillw and back
tn t$a ~ R C O and provi ~i on. 6. ' bou~ht ; hlenkotn (chutka) r an be bought ; tont,s and firenrms may
be hl r J nnd guides ongagd. Hare ir tent-dhnrmnuhala of tho Dmnn Srvn Sangha. a
"m* for sadlr.fcs, st art ed hy Mllrne Nnrnyn,nn SwnrnijiMnhnrnj i n 1R46. I f One wnnt8 a
q'Ilot ~l aco, ono can antnp hy t i l o nitlo of t,hr' rivor or t,ho cnnnl jlist 11clow ttho mnndi. Them
"' O Borne wntmr-rnills nc9:lrhy. I ' r ~l n Iloro t,ho fnmol~n Khocht ~r mont~rrtnry iu nt
distnnce of
ahollt 1Zm. which may bo visitotl bcroro going t o Knilns or on t ho rcrturnjourncy.
10
Toyo (2;) (170) l m. Toyo, big village, here is the sawadhi
or chhorten of the brave General Zoravar Singh (See p. 79))
i m. Garu chhu, cross the river by bridge,
gm. ascent t o t he village Garu,
l i m. mild and steep ascent t o Hara la, a big laptche, Sim-
biling Gompa is seen from here ; Qm. ascent,
f m. descent t o a beautiful brook, Khirok chhu, called Lee
chhu in its lower course,
2n1. inild ascent t o Shiktha, big la$tche,
1 i m. plateau,
Ringung (8i ) (1871) [14,400] i m. steep descent tb Ringutlg
chhu, cross i t t o its right bank (the village Ringung is
about half a mile down the river, away from the road),
mani-walls,
1/8m. cross the channel (taken from the Ringung gorge to
village Ringung) ; 1/8m. a ' branch from Ringung
Chhu which falls illto Barfu chhu, cross it ; 2i m.
gentle asceilts and descents t o ~aj e- kep, ' C., bogs,
15. BaldakZ (43.) (1912) (15,000) 2m. Baldak chhu, cross it t o
its right bank, vast cainpings,
lgm. mild ascent, 3 laptches within 50 yards, if the sky is
clear, one can have the first glimpse of the top of the
Holy Kailas peak from. here,
l am. laptche, t op of Kailas peak seen again from here,
$m. Sekang, camping parapets in t he midst of marshes,
l $m. Gurla chhu, cross it t o its left bank,
curla-phok or Gori-Udyar (4)) (196a) (hula-phuk is called Gori-
udyar by Bhotias, hers are several camping places and
some caves, said t o he the birth-place of Ganesh; fron1
1 The village Parbu or Br ~r f ~i iv a t n iIint,anco of ;~l,otlt l m. from hero;, with only 01-10 house
an:i s o ~ n e barley cultivat,ion. On tho left Imnk of t he st ream which Aom~ by
side Of the
hollse, aituaterl on t he etlgo of o pl:~tc!:~~t. :~r(: the r~linorl c o l ~ t mn ~ of,n fort nl)ont 22 feot high
rlestroyed by Zornvnr Singh in 1841. Tho I,ror,k of Lrje-kcp flows i nt o t.he stream* which
ill t ur n debouches i nt o Karnxli flr,\vn the village Dungma,r. 1)ungmer is one milo from here
arid most of t ho hor~nen aro si t ~~at c, d i n cavos.
2 From horr! one ro:ttl goes via Rnknhns Tnl, t,olrching t he hft ~nns n.t Tneti tso Or (lireCt
t o Hbrkha without touching tho J[i~nas. Ttrin root," is 2 or 3 rnilrrs shorter thanthe rou
3
rlo+cribetl above ; but by following t he routno givt:rl ahovo, pilgrims wollld enb)ytbe marc
along t he wevt coast of t , h ~ nIanns in its c:~osc: [,roximit,y ant1 nt tho same t,imchavo theoppor.
tunit)' of taking bat h in tho Lake for three dnys. 80 pilgrirnsshould fix up ? ~ i t h the, pony.
men a t t he beginning of tho journey t o tako thio route. I f , however, they are dolog
round of t he Manas alao, they niay, if they choose, visit Rakohas on t he o n w~ r ( ~ journey*
for i t in also nn interesting lake.
The villago Kerdung is 3 or 4 m. from%ladak ; Harkhn Tasnm livos here in wintor. On''
a king ruled over this area ; thore are eight houses here mostly nitunted in caves and PIcnty
of cultivstion. ~%tllat,cd on t ho t op of H, hillock i s a Romp, said t o have beon built in 8boub
t he year 1932 in t he preannt form, which io a brunch of Mangohang Oompe. I n thOchenklsaw
there is t he imago of Dolma anrl in t he d l ~ i > n n ~ t,horo nlEo big i m a ~ o ~ of chhopame, 88nkhye
Thubha and Chonresig. In t he second builtling thero arc fnur big mani - cyl i nd~~. Zornvar
Singh destroyed t he fort here.
T A B L E 1 123
here up t o the Gurla pass i t is a steep ascent 011 sharp
stones,
3ini. steep ascent, big labtclze ; l/Sm. another big laptche ;
3/8m. descent to Chhang chhu coming from the Man-
dhata peaks and falling into the Rakshas Tal,
Gl~rla La1 (4) (200a) [16,200] about 200 yards steep ascent t o Gurla
la or Gurla pass, big laptclze, flags, festoons and cairns ;
am. descent, big laptche ; Qm. descent t o Lang chhu
coming from the Maildhata and flowing into the Rakshas
Tal, here are some canipiilg parapets ; fm. descent
t o stone piles or cairns, footprints of a lama ; 2im.
steep descent t o the camp Thampara, spring in mar-
shes, c.,
16. Manasarovar (9) (209a) [14,!150] 3111. further descent t o
the Holy Manasarovar, just near the Shushup tso, a
semicircular lakelet on the north-western corner of
the Holy Lake, alnlost parallel t o i t ; several swans,
brahminy ducks, and gulls are fo~und in large numbers
here,
Gossul Gon1pa2 (4) (21 3 i ) [16,100] 4111. along the western shore
of the Lake t o Gossul goinpa,
l i m. along the rnargin of the lake to Gossul-changina, C.;
fm. further t o Tseritlg-manitha17g, a mnni-wall, C ;
i m. iron1 here leave the shore of the 1,nke t o the right
and proceed to\vards the left,
am. a few yards t o the left of the path is Tseti tso3 and on
the right parallel t o the shorc of the 1,ake is a narrow
)
1 From here one can co~umsnt l a, grant1 l ~; ~nor ; l n~i c view of t he sarrounding regions.
On the back is tho long ral1gn of snow poi ~ks t >cgi ~~ni ng fro111 Knluct', IAipu Lokh t o Nepal ;
on to the right are thd' mmsive gi ant heads of Mnndheta [25,385 ; 22,650 ; 22,1601 and in t he
front are tlle crystnl emernld-waterod Holy Manes 1,;tko and ltnkshnfl Tnl on t he right nnd left
~apoctively and i n t he bhckground st ands aloof in t he Knilas range, conspicuously an(!
~~i ct ar es quel ~ t he nl nj e~t i c and silvery I(nilns Dome with nwc-iuspiring solemnity and weird
Rmndonr, fncing t ho prolld Mnndhnt,a and overlooking t ho twin Inken bedecked with grnreft ~l
families of Rajahanma. From hare one
goes ~ O WI I ~ R H N.E. t o Thugc~lho-Gompa or
Thokar (Bim,), t ho eighth monastery of t ho Holy 1,c~kc sit, \r~. tcd on i t s flouthern shores.
'' About 159 fun\ i bovc t,lto 1ovr.l of t,ho I,nach, GOHIII~ Go n ~ p i ~ is hnllging Iiko R swnllow's
n e ~t from tho rock ovor tho Lake. This i~ tlln first I I I O I I ~ ~ ~ I I : ~ , ~ of t hc 1,nkc.
011e can have a
Rrnnd view of tho Holy Lake froln t l l c t op of t,llo gonlprl and (:WI ~ p e l ~ d Ilonrs together in silent
Contornplntion. This is t l ~ o wnrm(:nt of n.ll t,llo pIncc?n on Cho RInnt~s.
13ut to h n ~ o fl, view of
rho Knilas ono hnn oithor t o go f ~ l - ~t fl l rl o~~p: over n. ~tc!r.,~ R R C I ? I I ~ 111) tthc go11lj)n or go along
tho shores of t,ho T,nko for O V C ~ :j 1.11rlo11g~ ~ ~ o r t , h w~ r ( l ~ . No&r t , h ~ gornpn anti d o a n Ileloa,
illst by tho ~ i d o of 1,110 I,&(? ILrn fl0111o cil.v(?~, Ancc!lyling Lo thc! t op of t he ~not ~nt ~ni n on t he
hack of tho gompa, for nn1~~1.y ?am. ono of tho fi l l n~t l ~a, ~~or nn~i c: virwn (:en I)(: had of It'ukshas
withitn ialnntle on tho wo~t . , Mallillll~t,a, 011 t,l~(: YOII{,~I, t.ho (!~il.irc rxIlnllRo of t hc h k e Manam
On the enet nnd tho K~iiliiu ~I LI I KC? on t he rlort,ll.
3 Tsoti tso is nearly hn.lf n milo Sroln t,ho MRIIILH.
Thcrc nro HOIIIC s ~na l l islandn i n it*.
It iu about l m. long end half milo bronc1 (see p. 4!#).
'Che rout e t hnt brnnehes off from
Rnlrlnk nnd comes via Rnknllns Tnl ~n r r t n here.
Tho dctn.ils of tho r out r nrn n.s follows :
K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
n i ~ d shall& C ~ C S C ~ I I ~ shaped lakelet ;
It m. , between
the two lakes,
i.111. mild ascent t o chhnh-clzhcrl-gang (wherefrom sashtalzgil-
dnndn-pranam is made), laptche, mani-wall,
$m. Sera la ; t m. descent, from here up to Serka-khiro
are seen, old diggings of gold mines,
lam. Serka-khiro red chhovten on the left (see p. 49),
lm. mild up,
17. Ganga Chhul (near Chiu Gonipa) (8t ) (221i) am. descent to
thermal springs situated on the left bank of Ganga
Chhu, C. ; cross it to its right bank, caves,
PARKHA or BARKH.4' (9) (2304) [15,050] 9111. on a sandy
plain t o Parkha or Barkha, Tasarn or Tarzam (Tibetan
Transport Agent or Staging Officer) lives here, fine
view of the southern aspect of the holy Kailas (seep. 102);
cross the Dam chhu t o its left bank,
2m. through marshy lands to Gapu-dosa:',
18. Tarchhen or Darchhen (74.) (238) [15,100] 54m. through
marshes crossing several ramifications of the Zhong
chhu and Tarchhen chuh to Tarchhen or Darchhen
(see p. 103),
Raldnk t o Curla chhu 3fm. ; c r o ~ s the Grirla r hhu ; on plain lm. ; stoep and vcry steep nacent
with intervals t o Thalln-thong la .5)m.; descent t o Rezang c hhi ~ l i m. ; t o Lanke-donkhnng
i m. ;
(t ot al l.'m., tirst day' s march) ; along t he shores of Itakshnn Tal 2m. ;
leaving
Raknhns Tal very steep ascent of I i m. ; Tarko I:r 2m. ; descent from Tnrko la to T d i tao
4n1. (t ot al Rfm. for t he second (lily). So from Ba1tla.k t o Tseti tso via, I i a k~ha s Tal it is 214m.
and vin >fanas i t ia 24$m. i.e., there is a differrnrn of nearly 3m. bctwec-n t h ~ two routeP.
1 Here a donkang (Tihetan dltnrrnashnh), some caves ant1 a hot water kzmd, Gang8 Chhu
is t he only outlet of 3Ianu~srova. r ~ n d flows i nt o tho Rakshan Tnl.
There is a boil$
hot water spring on a rock situated in t he rnitldle of t he Ganga Chhu and another hot 8Prlng
tm t he right bnnk. The chnnnel Gnnpa Chhu is 40 t o 80 fcrt in brendt,h, 2 t o 44 feet in depth
nnd nboot 6m. in length in i t s winding corirnc from kInna8nrovar t o R~ks haf l Tal. It in
nvnrly 2 frrrlong~ ntecp nsrtbnt t o t ho Chiu or Jill Cjompa, si t uat rd on a' pyramidal hill, roost'.
i n I I . Thore nre 5 drihns in t.his go in pi^. and is nttachecl t o ~)ira-ph11k GompU
K~i I an. This monastery i~ ~i t ~unt r t l on the N. U'. corner of tho Holy Mnnns nnd is thenecond
Monnstery of t he lake. It. is hettcr t o camp cither on tho shores of t he Mnnw near M n l ~ ~ , ~ ~ ~
or nt t he hot ~pr i ngn on t he C:anga C!Iihn t han in t ho gompa.
2 'Chero nro t wo honnrn hero, of which one helonga t o t he Tanam nnd the other in t'h"
Government Rent Honne. There are some hlnck t ent s of t ho shepherds wherefrom mi l kv
curdn, cheese, huttor, anrl ot,hrr dairy prndnrt s nre available. JPa,rkha io t hdt hi r d Tmnf
on t he highrostl fronl Gartok t o 1,hana. I f one wants t o camp horn, on'? should tak@
blg
to no from Gangn Chhu for tlriving t ent p e p , sincn there are no stonen i n the peighbO1lrhood.
When one i* not hnlting hero, one nood not go t o this plnce hut cross tlle Dam chhu two
threo furlonas up thin phcr . On both ~ ~ ( I c H of this river thrro are dam or mnrflhe~ i
so i t i n
called T)am or L)nm chh11.
3 If one aent n t o mnke $1. halt I)t+forc ~ a c h i n g Tar r hhr n, ono whollld st op hrre, for
ere some .Johari mcrrhsntjs ; nnd rlairy produc,ta xm eir,~ilg nvailaMe from Tibetan flhV'hcrda'
From hrrp one can eithcr go (lirert via Pongclu t o t he pnrikrrrmn-ront.r, n ni i ~r he. vondTar chh~~~
or v i ~ T ~ r ~ ~ h l i e i ~ n ri l l r ~a t . h I)ira-phnk Gornpa i 11 t.hr cvening.
t
KAILAS-PARIKRAMA-32 MILES
Tarchhen or Darchhen (0) (0) [15,100] Kailas-Parikranza
begins, from the surrouilding mountains one can have
a grand view of the Parkha plain and Mandhata, (see
p. 107),
21m. with slight ups and dollills t o changja-gang, several
mnni-walls, view of Kailas,
Sershung (3;) (32) 1-2;m. descent t o Sershung, here is a big
flag-staff called Tarbochhe, dedicated t o Buddha, a big
'
fair is held here every year on Vaishakha Pzrrninza (see
p. p. 10, 60 and 106) ; a few yards further is Chhorten-
kangnyi (see p. 107),
lm. up along the Lha chhu, nzani-walls and chlzortens ; in the
mountain on the right side there is a cave of Naropen-
chhung called Penla-phuk ; wade one branch of the river
and cross the main river by bridge,
Nyanri or Chhuku Gompal (la) ( 5) am. steep ascent over
sharp stoiies t o Nyailri or Chhuku Gompa, mani-walls,
cross the river, back t o its left bank after visiting the
gompa,
24m. further up t o Gonlbophalig or Ravan Parvat, a black
hood-like peak standing just to the west of Kailas peak ;
there are sonie big and beautiful fans of streams falling
from the Nyanri mountain on the right bank of the Lha
chhu, one of which is about 700 feet high ; inverted
crescent view of Kaifas,
2m. Tamdin-donkhatlg, here is a sha9je or footprint of Buddha
(one mile before reaching this place one can have the
n-ester11 view of Kailas, which has got a peculiar shape
of its 'own something like the rings of Saturn),
Tho Ronlpn is pnrching liko n bird's nest in t he u~i ght y fore of Nj ~nnr i mo~lnt.nin.
'l'llip i~ tho first monast,cry of tllc: Holy Kai l as witah five clnhar. Thc chief imngc: in t he d?rrc~ng
1: of Chhl~kii R,ilnporhhr, ulncl(, of khi t e mnrblo, in ull prohnljility taken from Indin. On
"ltht-r zitlo of t hi s inll~go thore nrc t wo big rlrphxnt. t,unks wl1ir11 ar e each 20 inches in cir-
Cllmf~rrnco a t . their thickor onds ant1 154 inches long. Thoro ie all image of t he Hl i ut . t ~nc~~e
I~amn, Ngnva-hnrigyal (who fol~ntlrtl t . hi ~ monnstory ~ l l ~ o l ~ t . 300 years bock), whir11 I I RA got
white beard nnrl il. hat rrsc-n~hling t ha t of Guru Nniirlk: so nome ~ ~ e o p l e nrc under trhe wrong
ncltion t,hat, thin i~ t l l n i m~ g o of C:nrr~ Nannk. Horc: nrc tlir vnl l ~mcs of Knnjerr. I n t he
~h'nkharyl t hat i~ on t,ho t op of t ho monnntc,ry, tk.~.c. nrc. t.hc ilnngeq of JZangri-JAhnbcahcw.
bfnhaknli, ant1 3lnhnkn.ln.' Nonrlly nro t,wo tnorr ~nlal1c.r t . ~ ~ s k s of an elcphnntr. 111 t he
chpnkhnng proj1or ~ n c i t ho o11tc.r rooinr n . 1 ~ ~ 0 1 1 1 ~ arnlonrs. holn1c.t.u. nnd swortls of Zornvnr
Hi n ~ h . C)no ran onjoy (I fi no viow OP tho Kn.ilsr l'cak from tho t80p of t>ht? monflstcry. d u ~ t ,
hslow the mon~s t or y thern i s n r nvr rnllrd Lnngrhen-phnk. Ono can continua t he journey
"thcr on t he right, I N L I , ~ OF t,hr l A h ~ rhhn or cross tho river ngnin t o it.8 loft, t.)rrnk and con.
"Inup 011 t'hnt ~ i ~ l o wl i i rl ~ is o, l ~ i t s l ~or t ~r r t.hnn t h r r out r I)y t,ho ~~i pl r t I)n.nk.
K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
$in. further on are the two streams of Beluilg aild Pungl ul ~g
chhu, falling into the 1,ha chhtz 011 its right bank, which
are to be crossed by those going on the other side of the
river ; there is a small bridge on the Dunglung chhul;
2im. cross the Kailgjam chhu, pyramidal view of
Kailas,
t m. cross the main branch of Kangjam chhu2, C.,
1. Dira-phuk Gompa3 (7;) (12i) [16,400], cross the Lha chhu t o
(ii) its right bank
and reach the Dira-phuk Gompa, also
called Dithin-phuk, mani-walls, donkhang,
&m. descent from the monastery to the bridge on the Lha
chhu, cross i t to its left bank ;
from here up to the Dolma
la i t is a steep and tiring ascent, huge granite boulders
border the path,
1 I n t he upper valley of t hi s strennl thero aro dong or wild yaks. Up along this stream
one road goes t o t he source of Indus.
2 Usually big parties camp here, but if i t is not a very big one, not exceeding 30 membere,
t hey would do well t o send a man i n advance t o t he monastery and book t he topmost hall
or some ot her room in it. Though one would be put t o a little inconvenience due to smoke,
t he st ay i n t he monastery would savo a good don1 of t i me and great trouble in pitching and
unpitching t he tents, t hi s being t he coldest placo i n t he journey. I f they could lodge in the
monaebr y t hey could s t ar t oarly for t ho Dolma l a t he next morning.
3 Dira-phuk Gompn i s t he secontl monastery of t he Holy Kailns with one lama and five
dabas. Sakya-pendo is t he chief dcit,y.
Situated in t he cave of t he image-hall is thqimago
of Geva-gozangb~, who is snid t o have discovered t he patikrama-routo t o Kailas. Thcr@
i s a flag-staff in front of trhe monantcry. One version of Kan~l r i Karchhak and Kangri Sol dp~
er e printed in this monastery. Mo l ~ t ~ t ICailau display8 it,srll t o t he pilgrim in its full, magnl-
ficence here and one car1 Il:lvt? t ho bost viow of tl~c: K; ~i l as from t he t op of tho monastery:
It is like a hllgo ~i l vor tlotno placetl on n. petlcnLal with two gunrtls on eithor side, Vajrapanl
and Avalokiteuhvnrn. Facing t ho Ka. i l n~ t ho na.men of i ; h ~ pn;tka from west to emtare 48
follow8 : chhagnu.florjr, (Vnjrnpani), tho Holy KaiIas Peak (Kang Riwpochhe), Chenrealv
(Avalokibshvarn), Jarnhyaag ( Ma nj l ~pho~b~. ) . (!hhogeE-nownng, and Shivnri. Ono can spend
days and nights like miuntus without being t,,rocl, wnt chi r l ~ t he u~lenclour of tbe Sacred
Kailns Peak, sitting in front of one of t ho small wirltlows or on t ho t,op of tho monastery*
The grandour and slll~limit~y of t he vinw and t ho nl)iritllaI nt,mosphorn pervading there is
simply indoscrit~ahle. On a moonlit night t,he view is all tho moro gnzutl. From here Ona
pat h goes Up t he Lha chhu t o tho sonrcc: of tho Tnrlufl whic.11 is nt n distarlco of about 3Jm.
via Lhe La. The Indufl tlocs not taku its sourcu from t he foot of Knilas as somo wrong1!
bclicve and describe.
One ahoultl mnko a hal t for a day hero nnd go t,o t,ho southorn foot of ICrilrlfl Peek.
Tho route is 08 follows 4 m. dcscrnt from t ho go~npa t,o t he Lhe chhn, cross i t to the I r A
hnnk ; Q m. .steep ascent, chhor l ~n; Q m. groon ico ; 4 m. ntrep asrent over ice or by tho
aide of Kanaj al n ahhu over huge b0111cl~rs ; g ~ 9 g ~ 2 , horhnl illrcnse of KailR8, and vbrietirl
of flowers grow here ; heyo is t he unol ~t of t ho Kellgjam glncior, hlark in Folollr dlle to
t he eart h i n i t ; i t i s clomo-liko i n ~I I I LI ) R ; OVFW i t t,horn ar c i~lnllrnornt)lo itaiclc-8 like Shic.a
lingag ; Kangjnm chhu is gllshing out I)cltwoon t wo nccCion~ of t,hc glncic?r ; get9lp (1 100 Y' ?
over loofle debria by t he .side of a small stream ntl t he right. sirlo, nnrl clitnh up t o theasPlne
of t he glacier and proceerl llpwnrrle for I n1. on t ho glnri& ovnr morninas ; one rollld Pck "P
f l t one~ of variollfl ao1o11r.s tlint, liavo filllcn from t ho Knilarr conglomornto; horn is Rn Ope"
ice-field free from pf,l,hlos : & m. on t,hi# ico, nmnll pcjl)hlrs rcreltkrly shoot dolvn from the
wall of ICailan Pnltk ; then n 100 ynrds nt r ~~ep n~,-,-tlt, over vnry slippnry ice and Rnow. Now
you nre face t o ~ H C O with t11o pnr , ) en~l i n~~l ar wall of t,ho hI ol ~nt with I)ottomlena creVmRR"
soparating t ho head of t hc Kangjnrn plaricr from t he Ka i l n~- w~I l . Tho RcnncV of thp
surronndings is 80 aorono, sl ~hl i mr, and g r ~ n d , t ha t on" Yorgct,s all nhout t he difirllltY ?
might ~ R V R t o face in reaching t.bo plaro.
It, ofLon snow# hero.
From 1)irn-phltk to th'P:
plocr, i t i m nlmlit t wo milnu in nll.
T A B L E I1 127
lm. steep ascent to Tangyu,
C.,l
lm. Ascent t o Shivachhal-tuthup, Tibteans offer their hair
here and a drop of blood by scratching their gums and lie
down there once as if dead, for dying here is considered
meritorious,
in,. steep ascent t o Dikpa-karnak2 or sinners' test stone,
a few yards further is another small Dikpa-karnak, a little
up the road is the ruined Charok-donkhang, C., walled
enclosures; shooting up froin behind the peak of
Jambyang, the Peak of Kailas presents a fine view here,
Bin. plain road but full of boulders, a stream flows through
boulders, about a quarter of a mile beyond this place
is the big fossil bed referred to on page 47.
DOLMA LA3 (4) [16$] [18,600] l m. very steep and hard ascent to
Dolma la,
) m. from Icangjam chl111 cross tho Polr~ng chlit~ ( p o mcnns incense and lunq meana
valley) ; in this vallcy 1C;~ilas incellse grows in Iargcl rl ~~a~~t i t . i cl s ; 1 m. stcep ascent to Tangyu ;
from here Kailas presents a new viexv bcbtween (Jhcnrczig ant1 Ji1rnby:~ng peaks stretching
its glacial arm up t o Jambyang, jllst liko a huge silver A'ivu-liuga placed on a pedestal. Dolma
1% is 21 m. from Tangyu. According t o Tibetan t,raditions those only who have completed
12 rounds of Kail:~s would bo cntitlcd to (lo tlle 13th ronnd via IChnndo-sanglam la, leaving
the regular parikrama route from ],ere t o the left,, tho dotails of which are as follows :
f m. steep descent to tho L)olma la chI111, cross i t t,o its left bank ; (300 t o 400 yn.~-ds
down the stream there is a cave situated untlcr a huge boulder. The cave is sheltered from
wind by stones piled up into Several ycars hack one fr~mous lama lived here after
whose name i t is called Lama Kyangun-Kangri-PlluItpn) ; f m. further cross the Khando-
sallglarn chhu to its lbft bank ; 3 m. steep ascent over scree and moraines (on t'he lcft side
thore is a beautiful turquoise blue glacial lakc a t t he liead of tbe Khando-sanglam chhn) ;
lm, further nscent across tho Kha&o-sanglaru glacictr nrhich is full of crevasses (somet.imc8
pocoitful, I)eing covered with fresh snow) to Khando-sanglam la. On the right hand eide
' "the peak Phakna-ri and on the left Khando-sauglnm ~ e n k ; the scenery is very grnnd
hero; a few yards fi ~rt her is the Inptehe of t,ho pass.
(This place is 2 m. from Tangyu and
34 m, from Dira-phuk). 18 m. alrrlost p ~ r ~ f i ~ ~ d i c u l n r doscent on scree to the continence of
Kll*lldo-sang~a,m chhu coming from tho l rft and Sl~ingjong coming from the right ; cross
tho stroam here ; 3 m. stoep descent throligh ht ~go bor~ldcrs to tho confluence of Khando-
swaglam and Lhal n-cl ~hu-khi ~; one comes here ngai11 to the pc~rikmtna high road (this place
18.21 m. from Khnntlo-snnglnn~ In rind 5 ) m. fro111 Ilira-phuk) ; no anirualv can negotiate
thla path ; Khando-sc~~gl m la soc:lns to I)o lower t,hnr~ tho Uolma 1:1. and this route is shorter
than the ~nnin rolrd by &, [ I t 3 m. ~ h o i~dventurous few \vho wish to go by this route
should tnke a r n ~ n k - ~ t l i ( l ~ ant[ a rope from I ) i r t ~- ~huk and the journey should be done orlly
when the day is sunny, for i t snows very Iloavily if it is cloudy. The author crossed this
Pass Once on July 11, 1941 with t,he aid of a ~ ~ l i t i o a.ntl a. second t h o on September 13, 1'342,
alone.
No non-Tibt,t,nn hns over crossed this pass before or heard of it.
is b: big boulder under which there is n nnrrow mtlrmot-hole pussage, through
which 8 lean person can crawl ollt (1" the I,c:llg with diffic~lt~y, firlly strctched.
The entire
Passage is not more than 12 or 15 feet long, b11t tho roof not hcing even, one may get stuck
"P In it, if ho is confuard wllilo in it, in wllic]l cnso ono shall l ~nve to be dragged out either
h~ logs to the back or by the hands t o the front. Orio who could pass through i t is con~idored
"'lless. It may even be impossible for a @tout person to do this feat.
3 On tho pass thoro is tr big bol~lder called 1)oulttl (Devi) block a.nd flags, fostoon~, strea-
mlra, and cairns are set
a\\ around it,.
Fallen toeth are stuck by t he Tibetans lnto t ho
chinks of tho Uolrnt~ hlock, forming ro~nrios of teet,li.
1)ilgrima umenr b~~t $t or on tho boul-
der, hoist flags, and rlo the rollll(la of it,.
I t itj alleged thnt Dovi disappeared under this
in tho form of 21 wOlvfl~ ; it lr\ay [J(I notctl t hat thero flre 21 forms or Avalams of Dcci
'"Ording to Tibctan acriptllres.
14'rom hero Gouri-kund is seen down b(rlow in (111 ite glory.
ahollt 3 m. from hore the pnbh is lined np by heavy gra~i i t e bol~ldere nnd crags.
128 K. 4II, . %S - MA N A S A R O V A R
GOURI-KUND (a) (16;) [18,400], i m. very steep descent t o the Gouri-
kund called Thuki-Zingboo by the Tibetans. yhis lake
is covered with sheets of ice almost all the year round,
which is often broken for taking a bath in it. (see p. 11.)
(It is a very steep and falling descent from here to Lham-
chhukhir and descent up t o Zuthul-phuk gompa).
2 ini. very steep descent through stones t o Shapje-dak-thok ;
there is a footprint of Buddha on a big boulder, camps,
cave,
i m. descent t o the bank of t he Lham-chhukhir chhu,
l i m. descent through marshy lands down the Lham-chhukhir to
t he Khando-sanglam chhu, cross i t t o its right bank, froin
here one can have a glimpse of the t i p of the Kailas peak
from eastern side.
3im. descent t o the confluence of the 1,ham-chhukhir and the
Topchhen chhu, which joins the 1,ham-chhukhir on its
left bank ; from this place do\vnwards the river is called
Zhong chhu, (those who go t o t he source of Indus from
Dira-phuk via I4he La return via Topchhen La down along
t he Topchhen chhu t o this place),
2. Zuthul-phuk Gompal (91) (252) l am. further down is ~ u t h ~ l -
(iii) phuk Gompa, several mnni-walls both on the way to, and
near the gompa,
lni. cross 3 or 4 streams during the course of a milea,
Rm. further is Changja-gang3, mani-walls ; from here the
Zhong chhu leaves the gorge and enters the Parkha
rnaidan and t he route takes a westward turn ; this placels
also called Zhong-chhu~go, (crossing the ~hong-chhu here
t o its left bank, one route goes t o the ~anaspari kmma),
I T h i ~ i s t he t hi rd monnntrry of Kailan with t hree dabns nncl i t bol ong~ t o Tarchho"
Lnl)rnng.
I n t he cave of t he rnonnntery t here nre t he irnaac~n of ,+,he groat Tibetan m~~~~~
( ai dh, n) . &Iilnrepn ant1 ot her (leition a nd t wo olephent tusks, which ar e smaller than t'hose
in Nyanri gompa. Si t ua kd just olitsicle t ho cavo on t he ri ght nitle of t he d ~ c v a ~ ~ ~ , th!re
t he itlo1 nf Ngava Nangya! ant1 on t he left itl lo a soven foot follr-sitled stone beam, sa,ld bo
he t ho stick o f hlilarepu. Pilgrims toost t hei r st rcngt h a t i t by lifting i t up. Knilas is not
soen from hrm. Sinof! t,ho 1'KVR over which t,ho mc ~ ~ n s t , e ~ . ~ was lator cons t r uc\ ~l , being th
olltcome of t he miraclo of Milnrepa, i t i s callorl Z~r t h ~~l - p h u k . Zuth?cl nlon.ns'mirecle, Bn
phrck means a cave.
f
From hero ant? pat h *om t o Gongtn, Gompn, which in at n t l i ~t , ancc of &.m. %rice the
pat h ifl fllll of a ~ r n n t ~ s and rl e~cent s, vory few non- Ti hot a ~~s would like t o t ake this
t houah t he aut hor hat1 heen nevrral times by t hi s rout e whirl) ha.s got a charm of its Own'
Cru8qinR t he Zhong c1th11 t n its l eft bank hero, one rol ~t , o goes for t ho round of tho Man'"
3 From hero one can con~mnnd n head~i fu1 view of t he Rnrkha nlnin i n t he front and
EGak~hn~ and Mnntlhnta bryontl ; ilnrl ono pat h v o e ~ tlimct t o (?hill Gompn, which ip nb "
l l i ~t ~ance of 13 rn. (Darn chhu 44 m.. Chi11 ChmpaB)m. - 13 rn.). On t he way on(+ nhn.11 have
Paus over a very b o g ~ y land for n rlistanoo of half a mile on oithor uidc of t he clfhll'
Qoa*r of a mile 1,efom marhi ng thia chnnqj n-~ang, on' t ho rnollnt;lins t ha t nrn tfot,honght
4i r l ~ of t he road, Zoh,rar-morn ( ~er pnnt i no) stono is found and R I H ~ on tho 1cft. h n k of t'ho
Zhong chhu.
T A B L E I 1
lm. further Tarchhen is seen,
i m. further cross the Tarchung chhu,
i m. further are long mani-walls,
3. archh hen' ( 6i ) (32) cross the Tarchhen chhu or Unia chhu to its
right bank t o Tarchhen. The parikvama of the Holy
Kailas is completed here. Neither the river Sutlej nor the
Indus falls on the circuit t o the Holy Kailas as has
been wrongly described by many people.
1 Tibetans compare the Holy liailas with the salttrsrara chakra (the thousand petalled
Psychic centre in the head) and t,he three rivers-Lhn chha, Zhong chhu, and the Tarchhen
chhu-to the Kengma, the Rengnza, m ~ d the Uma, which are t he Ida,. Pingala, and tho
Ssshumna respectivoly of tho yoga s8aslra. Tnrchhen chl111 joins tho Zhong chhu ; the Ker-
leb chhu joins the Lha ehhu ; furthor on t he Zhong chhu debouches into t he Lha chhu,
which in turn debouches into IGakshas TaI; Dam chhu sepamtoly debouches into the
Rakshas Tal. So all t he rivcrs of ICailas f:d1 into t he Itaksbas.
From Tarellhen also thuro is one path t hat gocR northwarcls t o the Cengta Compa (iv)
(%fin, very stoep ascent), siL11:~tod on it hilloc.k like a big fort. Thisis the fo~l rt h and the big-
gest monastery of ICailas with one lama and fivc: dnbas. Tllc chiof deity in duwang is Chho-
lokeshvari, and in chenkhangKhantlo. In one of the roomsofthe monastery,therc nrepreserved,
as trophies, t.wo sbnl armours, a h(:lnlct, a sword, and a I)att,le axe of Zornvar Singh. There
is a flag-staff or~tsido the 1nonnstr:ry and K:~ilns is not seen from hero. The fourth shapje
of Kailas which used t o IJC midway between Gcngta and Zuthul-phnk has been brought
here in 1931. From horc one can have tho view of tho whole scene up t o t he Indian borders.
Near the gornpa are tmo or three houses and some mani-wnlle and some chhortene of Ladakh-
type. A second version of Kangri Karchhnk and Kangri Soldep is printed in Gengta Gompa.
Silung Cornpa (v) is within two milos froin hore (fm. descent ; i m. ascent ; l m. very
steep descent; 4lnl crowing the Silung chhu t o its right bank is t he gomprt).
This is t he
fifth and the smallest g o mp of ICnilas, jvith two dabas.
I n thoduaang there are theidols of
Dorjo-chh;ang, and Ngoj ~~n-dupt ho and in chenkhang t hat of Aprhi. Gengt~u and Silung are
both brancl~cs of Dekung Jfollnstery. The southern view of Kn i l ~s from here is very pic-
turesque. From hore one p;ttl~ goes t o Tarbochhe which is 2m. sheer on scree. One
lane who is not officially connortod with this monastery, has been living here since 1939
and has rebuilt the whole mona.steq in 1946. From hero one road goes t o Serdung-chukshum,
fihe details of which e r e as follo~rs :
Silung aornpa is a t a distance of 2&m. asccnt from Tarchhen along the Tarchhen chhu ;
If m. steep ascent through stclnos, on tho31eft hand side there nro some caves in the hori-
zontal strata of oongIomerato ; pm. stoep nsront on stones, mandal, cha?,gja-gong (down
bQlo\v the mountain is tho confluence of Serdung-chukshum chhu and Kailas-east chhu ;
situated at the cocdoence of t,hoso two rivers and encircled by them is t he mountain ca.lled
Net ~n-yol ak-j an~ which Ilns got tho apponrenre of a bull sea.tcd in front of tho Kuilas-temple) ;
tm. descent on ~norai ms, hero is the footprint of n horse callcd Ling-singjen ; Jm. in tile
stony bed of the Serdong-chhuks~~m chl111 ; 1 "1. sterp nsccnt on huge mounds of moraines :
1 m. across tho lowcr bnse of the llcnp of ico lodgetl down froin t'he top of Kai1a.s ; f m. very
B ~ W P ascent into the belt of tho ICailt~g penk t o Serdeng-chuksum.
80, Tarchhon is about 7 rn. from S(+rdr~ng-cl ~l ~ksnn~, ) m. nlong the belt of the Kailas peak
to CHARQ?<-~'HURDOT) T,A ; Im, doscont fihner on srrec ; on the left hand side situated
at the eastern bnso of tllo Knilns peak is n mngnificent dome-like glacier. As a matter of
fact eeoh of the four sidos of ICnilns hns got n, pecu1in.r bcnuty of its own and i t would be
difficulh for ono t o SILY which side is morc, bnc~ut~iful.
To whichover ~ i d e one goes, one
fmls that t hat side is t he most 1,enutiful. 2 m. stenp descent t o the river si de; i m.
tloscent, cross t,ho rivor t o its left I)auk ; i r n. st mp n.scent over hopeless debris t o Too K. 4. .
Knpala, cnllod Knpnli, ICnvaIn, or Knrnli are two twin Iakelets called Ruha a.nd Durchi :
(ROD P. 12.); l f m. very s t ~ e p deacont over dot~ris to the Silung rhhu ; crosu i t t o its right bank
2fm. fllrthor descent to billing Golnpa. ; 24 rn. desront to Tnrchhen. I n this WRY Tarchhen to
~or d~l ng- ehh~~ks~i r n i t is 7 m. ; and Serdnng-chhukfium t o Tso Kupali 44 m. ; Silungis34 m-
Tarchhon is 24 in. ; total 17h m. from Tarchhen to Serdung-chhuksum end.back via
T ~ o KnpaIn. On tho way to ~ o $ d ~ r r ~ g - o h ~ ~ ~ ~ k ~ ~ i m and t o TRO Knpali large qrinntitlesof her-
inconso of K~~i l ns c8.n I J ~ ~,ic:kntl 1111. Tho h n ~ t way of (loing this j o~~rnoy is to go
the
Sillln~ Monn.story in t,ho ~ligllt,, ~t n. r t onrly nnst morning for Scrdi ~n~. c. hhr~kfi l ~m and come
back via Tso Knpala to 8il1111g or Tnrcl~hrrn by ovnning.
TABLE I11
MANASAROVAR-PARIKRAMA-64 MILES
(Visiting all t he eight Monasteries of the Lake)
Gossul Gompa1 (0) (0) First monastery of t he Holy Manasarovar,
(i)
3 dahas, (see p. 123),
l am. along t he shore t o Gossul-changma, C ; i m. Tsering
mani-thang, C., mani-wall ; l i m. beginning of Tseti
lagoon ;
l am. along the shore on the thirty-foot broad shingle bank
between the Lake and t he lagoon t o Red Rock Spur
(from here one pat h goes t o Sera chagaja-gang),
l i m. Serka-khitong, mani-wall, C., (from here up t o Rakshas
Tal there are gold mines, which were worked for some
time in t he year 1900),
lain. further along the shore t o Mallathak Volcanic rock
projection into t he Lake, which is almost perpendicular
here,a
i m. leaving the shore very steep ascent, (from here one
path goes t o due north direct t o Ganga Chhu, crossing
which t o Chiu Gompa),
l m. descent t o the hot springs on Ganga Chhu (midway
one can see the Serka-khiro chhovten on the left), (see p. 49),
cross the Gai ~ga Chhu t o its right bank,
Chiu or Jiu Gompa3 ( 8 ; ) ( 8 $ ) am. steep ascent t o Chiu Gompa,
(ii)
second nlonastery of the J,ake, ri dabas, (see p. 124),
1 I n t he chenkhnng of t he gompn thcrc is ~ h c idol of Goml,o-netup and in dlcaang th@m
rtrn t he idol* of Thuj i -rhhi mho, of Chnnrtrsig with 11 beds and 1.000 hands, of Kyengun-
jimbn-Nurhtl-Kangri-lama-shakhar, thn follndrr of t he gornpa, and aorne other i m w ~ .
There usat1 t o he t ho 108 c n l ~ ~ r n ~ n of Knnjtrr hilt. wr r r t nkr n away t o Thogolho Gompe in
t he aut umn of 1946. There is n, hig rnvn tlown hclow t ho monastery, jnst on t he shore of
tho Lake in which 1)wpnnknr Shrcojnan nt;~yctl for a week.
R~ y o n d this point one rnnnot. pr or ~c~r l along t he nhrrrr of tohe T,a.kr, for, t he rock ! Y
very stoep and t he tvntrr r l e ~p. h116 tvtien hhc ranks infrozen in wintrr, one rn. nsnlk over lt.
Af t er going for ahorlt 1(m ynrrlq on ire, onc ran proroerl "long t ho shoron. One or t$wo fur-
Illngs f ~l r t ~hr r ni t l r ~t wl in thr3 wall of n nt.cop rock is t he rnvo rnllotl ~gf i vn- n~opo- duphuk,
n;llnetl aft er n, greatl lam:& who livntl t,hnm novrrnl vr-nrs hl ~ck. Somot i my, acme monks
live hero in winttbr fnr chhn,,,. 'rwo furlongs I,eyon(l thin p~nce. there nro some mmi-walls
and wallorl onrlowrr:g sitllatorl nt t he foot of t,ho Santokpnri hill, whero t,ho ahepherd~ of
C:hilr G o m p ~ camp in winter anrl spring.. Them ar esomr hotspringn nit,erterl fi tho hcd ~f
Iaako ab011t 50 ynrrls from t,hn shore. Pilgrim3 usllnlly .pick np nomo p r h b l ~s of thNr
liking from t he went ron.nt, ninrc t hey pans hy t h i ~ side. An n ~nat , t or of fact, pohhl@fl can be
pirketl up from any ~ h o m of t he Lakc.
3 Tl ~ n chief imngo in t hr rh~nkhnng in 'of Pnt l ma~nmhh~. \ - a, ~i t a. at ct l in n caw.
Here
i* tho fimt l i n ~ or r hhor t ~n of t he Nannn.
Thi s is llntler Di m- phuk Monhshry of Kallw
which iv ituelf a hrsncli of 1)stlinqborhhe Gompn, 30 m. nort h of T, ~RRR. . Thin rn0nrnkV
in like a I~irtl nitking on t he t op of s hill ; rhilr mennn hircl ; henro t.he narno Chill GomPe.
Fr om here ono cnn llavo R g r ~ n r l view of t he Raknhn~. bfnnns! Ka i l ~n, end Mn n d h ~ t , ~ On
tho hark of tho rnonnntnry t , h~r n is
hig pen-yn,rrl.
&m. descent t o t he north-west corner of t he Lake,
t m. steep ascent t o Senlo-phuk la, laptche, grand view of
Kailas, Manas, aiid Mandhata ; 21n. mild descent,
Cherkip om pa' (48) (122) i m. steep descent t o Cherkip Gonipa,
(iii)
third monastery of t he Lake, 1 dabu,
l m. along t he shore of the Lake t o Tasaulung, mani-wall a t
the mouth of t he valley ; leaving t he Lake t o the right
l m. ascent,
Langpona Gompa2 (44) ( 17) 24x11. desceiit t o Langpoiia Gonlpa,
(iv) fourth nioiiastery of the Lake with 1 lama and
5 dabas ; niile t o the Gyunia chhu, cross the three-
foot deep river t o its left bank and proceed across the
vast maidun ; hundreds of wild horses called kiyangs
roam in herds,
4fm. cross the Lungnak clihu ; 14111. further cross another
streani,
Ponri Gompa3 (8) (25) 2m. mild and steep ascent t o Ponri
(v) Gotnpa, fifthj moiiastery of the Lake with 1 lama and
5 dabas,
l i m. steep desceiit t o Kojin-chungo camps, le,
2im. mild descent 011 the ntaidan t o Yalche~i clihu, 2-3 feet
deep, cross t o its left bank,
lfrm. to" Palchung chhu, big lapfcl~e, mani-stones, cross the
three bra~iches of the river t o its left bank which are
I This monastery is ~itua,Le(I jllstl \vithil~ it fc\v yitrdri from thn shorn of the, IJnke nt t he
mouth of n dr y strosm. Thcro is c,nly ono i~nxgc.-hr~ll in \vhic~h t hr r c is t l ~ r imnge of Guru
Rinpochhe. This is tho sn~a.llont of the Lakn-lnonnstoric.~ ;tnd bolongs t o Tnrchhen. Ka.ilns
ifl seen from hero. Not f i ~ r fro111 t,ho gonu)a, xit,l~nt.cd iu t he ~vnl l s of t hr mountain on t he
shore of t he Lake, tthsrc ar c sovorn.l r;t.vt:s, whrro s o ~ n r ~n o n k s livr in winter t o spend t hei r
time in meditntion and solit,lrtlo. The. ctnvcs irrr f i ~ t . i n ~ sol i t l ~ and so t , l l ~y g r t sunshine t,ho
wholo day and ar e c.ompa~rat,ivcly wtLrmc:r. \'cry t ~ o i ~ r t.ho g o ~n p a ar e sonla cctmping pnrn-
pets, where some Aepher ds livt: in \vinttrr.
2 This gc:npn is s i t ~l nt r d on t.h(: right. bnnk of t,hc Gy u n ~ a c.hhu and is 141n. a s n y from
the Lake.
K~t i l as is s &~t f r o n ~ t ho flag-statt' tlhnt. is ollt,si(lc ~ I I C gompa. Thi s brlongrr t o
Hemrnis Gornpn of Ladnkh. 111 the, rlto~ldcrny t,hc.ro rlrcr t.110 irn21gvs of LI~nl)ucn, I,hnmn,
nnd others; ant1 in t hc ducnng t,ltr~l, of Si ~kyi t -muni . Thtbrc. in ;I fng-staff in t,he rourt ynrd
of the gotnpa. Ahout f ft,y yn.rtls t,o t he sont,It nf i811c golnlm t.hcre is n projrct.ion of t,he hill
rmembling t he t runk of n11 t!lt!ph>~nt,, o l t \rfl~ic-l~ 11s111:tll I I I I ~ in const,rnctcvl c.nIIrd 1,a~ngpona.
There ar e ~ n s t jpnt,nrn I H I I ~ H 11.11 rolln(l, its at, I$i ~t , kh; ~ ; SO H I I ~ ~ ) I I ( ~ T ~ s fro111 Hor nnd 1'11rang
oome hero in winter t o graixo t hr i r ynks, s hr cl ~. a,11(1 goi~Ls.
3 This gornpn in sit,rlnt,ntl irl 11. high \ , ILII(: ~ ; ~. t thv fo~, t, of t.11~: I I I ~ : I L ~ O I . ~ ~ S I I ~ W- ( . I I I ) P ~ ~ peak
of l'onri whic!h ie 19,664 ftrrt high. The- c.11ic-f rlvit,y i n cltc~~tl.k(rttg iu J,hnl,rt.n, rr11(1 Gombn-
rhamha in drrvnng. Hort! in the: srt.o11(1 littfq of t.l,c? 1,itkr. 'I'hifi ~nor t ~~s Lr r y i u n t ~r n n r l ~ of
tho h r n IJniversit, ~. TI10 ~no~lit~nbc.ry it.rr('1f is I I . ~, ( I I I ~. 1.000 f c ~ t : ~ l ~ o v e t hr Irvc~I of t he Mnnlb~
and commantln n gr~rnt l vie-w of t. ~~c: \vIloIr~ of i,Itts ~ t i ~ t ~ ~ I h i ~ i . : ~ I{,t\ing~ r(!flrct,ing on tho Holy
hf nn~s and of t he Inkc~nnK~~rkyt~l-c.hl~~~t~~, SIIIIII; t,so, ~ t l d 1)ing t.nn uituntrtl betwren t,llca
Mm88 nnd Ponri. Kur kynl - c. hh~~ngo is (Irecl.ih)rd ill (.kt(- Ti l ~l ' t nn script, l~res an t he llead of
hhnau whoro d ~ v n t n ~ ( nn~cl n) tako t , l ~r i r 1~ntJ1 nntl t,l~trt, t ho pnrikrnmn of t he Rltunas is not
romplrte without doing t ho ro111d of thin Inkr.
l i A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
2-3 feet cleepl,
in almost all the beds of the streams
the one-foot turztva bush grows in abundance, '
i m. Nga-dungje, camping parapets, mani-wall, shepherd
camps in winter,
1;m. Pegur, C., spring, mani-wall ;
lm. Sanlo tsangpo, wtani-walls, cross the two-foot deep
river t o its left bank, mani-wall,
lm. t o the shore of the Lake,
lm. along the shore of the Lake t o Havaseni-madang (mani-
thang), mani-wall, second chhak-chhal-gang of the Manas;
Qm. leave the Lake to the right and get up the valley,
lapt-che ;
i m. on the plateau,
Seralung s om pa' (11t) (362) i m. descent to Seralung Gompa,
(vi) sixth monastery of the Lake, 1 tzclkz~ lama and 19
dabas,
bm. descent down the Seralung valley to the shore of the
holy Lake, a ruined dharmashnla, called sera-donkhang3
C., mani-wall,
l m. along the shore of the Lake to ~iksum-gombo-three
mounds of Chhagnadorje, Chenresig, and Jambyang ;
one path coming from Seralung meets here which is
1 &m. long, half of which is a very steep descent oLer
loose sand,
2m. along the shore of the Lake, to the dry bed of Ngomo-
1 The direct route coming from Tarchhen meets hcre ; tile stages aro as follown : Tar-
chhen t o Zhong chhu am. ; cross t he three-foot deep river t o i t s left hank ; Aveng chhu
3m. ; Philung-kongma chho 3m. ; Philung-phdrrna ch1111 i m. ; Philung-yongma chb!l
2fm. ; Gyuma chhu 3m. ; crous t wo or three ramifications 2) feet deep ; Kyo am. ; l e, mant.
wall ; Kuglung chhu 24m. ; (Total 17)m. t o be done on t,he first day) ; ,T,ungnak chhu 3%m. ;
heginning of K11rkya1-chh~~ngo 21n1. (Kurkyal chhungo itself is about Bjm. long) ; Palchpn
chhu f i l n. ; Palrhung rllllu I f m. ; Seralung Gon~pa 6f m. (t ot al 16 m. t o bo done on the
socc~nd day) . Thoso pilgrin~a who do t he cornhi~led pnvikt.ama of Kailas nnrl Mennanropnrt
11sunlly leave Zr ~t hnl - phuk Gompn late i n t ho morning ant1 halt nt Kyo for the night, Rlnce
it is
good camping place with plenty of gram for their animnln. The next day they go direct
t o Sera-donkhnng for camping.
Just before reaching the gornps there is a line of beautiful mnni-wnlls and ch,hodena.
The gompa is situated on the right edge of tho valley and a small brook flows nearby
thore is a f r wh wa b r spring for drinking water. I n t he chcnkhnng t here i 8 U h image of'
Aprhi. in dunnng, of Loben Rinporhhe (Padmnalamhhava), Bakya, Thr ~bha, and others. The
third ling of Manas is bcra. There are three or four honsos, u dwnkhang and fix0 black tent'.
Thi s mclrl~st~cry and Gengta and Silnng Oompas of Knila.s, belong t o t he Dekung MonwterJ'.
Ka i l ~q is not seen from t ho roof of t he monantc!ry itself but if ono comes out of the monmteV
t+, t he nlirldle of t he valley, a few yards in front of it, on0 ran cornmnnrl one of the grandwt
and most beautiful views of t he Holy Lake, blre st,t,tirlg Nun, and t he I<nilae Yeuk. The
Lake is l am. from hero.
3 T h i ~ place is nbor ~t a mile from Havascni-mndang, where on(, leaves tho Lake of sera-
lung Gompe.
Beginning from H~va ~mi - ma c l a ng for n1,nut Xrn. nlong t he ~hor - of the
HO~ V Lake, t hi n layers of n sort of violt,t,-r~d 8,zncl c~nllrrl,;:h~mnnrng~ ( s r ~ pp. 50 ~ n r l under
h~ndi ng Fran11~Is) is fo~lntl.
T A B L E 111 133
sllang chhtl, on the left bank of which is Ketar-
"donkhangl ,
2m. to the winding Dungak-chemdong chhu,
41m. leaving the Lake about half a mile to the right, over
ups and downs of sandy niounds to Tag tsaiigpo2,
cross i t t o its left bank,
2m. ascent and descent to Nimapendi ch11u3, cross the 1&
feet deep river to its left bank,
im. across the Nimapendi valley,
2m. along the shores of the Lake to a small brook called
Riljung chhu, cross i t to its left bank, nza~zi-walls,
chhortens, third changja-gang of the Lake,
Yerngo Gompa4 (142) (519) l m. Yeriigo Gompa, seventh mona-
(vii) stery, of the Lake, with 1 lama and 6 dabas ; cross
the Riljen-chhu to its left bank,
3. Thugolho omp pa' or Thokar Mandi (2a) (532) 21x11.
(viii) almost along the coast to Thugolho Gornpa, eighth and
I About 120 years back t he foundcr of the Go s s ~ ~ l Gompa had constructed Ket nr-
donkhang, Momodungu-donkhangLanka-donlrhang, Cl~ang-donkha.ng, Sera-donkhong, and
Baldak-donkhang. As thoy t urned out t o be shelters for robbers, all except ket ar hnve
been pulled down by t he Tibctan Government ; hut this was completely destroyed by t ho
Kazhakisin 1941. Hundreds of Ti bet an pilgrin~s used t o tako shrlter here while during t hc
parikrma of the Holy Lake ; so t he aut,hor had i t rebuilt in 1947.
2 This is fordahle about half a milo from t he Lakc.
During tho raiuy season . t he wat,cr
in the river rises t o five feet and beeonlos unfordn.hle.
Three or 4m. from Manasarovrr
there nre hot springs on both sides of t ho rivcr (see p. 47).
Large qon.ntitics of jimbu grows
in tho surroundings. During rainy season Khantpas come and camp here) for a fortnight t o
collect i t (see p. 45). Two or 3m. beyolld t hi s place a ~na ndi is held on t he left bank of
the river a t a place called 1)liramv i n t he first fortnight of Septem1)rr.
Tho mandi lasts for
a week when merchants from 1,imi (north-wcstcrn corncr of Nrpal) bring rice, barlry, wheat
flollr, and wooden articles t o be barteretl wiMl Tibrl,:~n snlt, yak8 and wool brought by t he
Dokpas. Tho nlandi i s held on albernat,c! years a t J ~kpol ung on Nepal borders. Some
Rholitt morcllnnts also go t o thin mandi. Onc road goes t o tho source of t ho Br ah~napl ~t . r n
UP this river via Tag In, wllicll is 63m. from Manas. Some Ilavo rrroncously wr i t t ct ~ nntl
Rcvoral still believe t hkt tho B r c ~ l ~ ma p ~ ~ t , r ~ t,akcs i t s risc from t he Mi ~nzs on i t s eastern shorc ;
I)llt it is f ~ r from t r at h. The sorrrco of t he Tag t,snngpo which is in tho Knnglung-Kallgri
glaciers, ie eonfiidercd th$ ge~l et i c sollrcc of t,he Sl ~t ~l ej , i na s ~nuc l ~ as this is t he biggest of
the rivers t hat fall into t he Holy Lake and t,hc Holy 1,mko has no ot hr r outlet but t he Gnnga
Cbhu, which flows i nt o t he Raksllas Tal, fro111 which in t,nrn t he Sutlej or t he Lnngchcn
Kh~mbab flows out.
3 Tho vnlley is very hmnd, der p ant1 gmnd. Thore iu n big shepherd camp callcd Nono-
kllr of a b o ~ ~ t 25 I,Ipck t ont , ~, a, milo off tho shoro of t he Lake. Tho t ent s nre spread i nt o nine
groups, s i t ~~nt et l on cit,her ,side of tlle river, rntentling over l m. 111 summcr th(ls0 canlpn
move to tho upvor part, of tile vt\,llcy rnllocl Tnling. Tllo drug tk.?tma is gro\vn in allanrlnnc.c
hcrn nlld the s~lrrounding regions ( we p. 45).
4 Thero is only 0110 imago-hall in t,llis nlollnstc%ry nnrI t,hc ~lrincipal deit<y iu Crr1r11 Rinpochhc.
are two or thror housrs nrljacont t o t.ho gonlpn. This in n 1,rnnch of t he Sakyn C:orupn.
The gompn is sibnntod very tleilr t,llc 1,nkr ; anrl t , k? riv(3r 11.iljrn flows nrarby. Tllero nrc
tnnllmnrnt~lo smooth uLonc9 ill t , l ~c nppcr c:ollrno of t l ~i n riror, a aort of dirfy da.rk-red in
"lour; nnrl they aro 11nrt1 for insc.ril,in~ and omI,ofi~ing mnni-mnwtvna on ~~~~~m. Midwny
brt'wnon this p I ~ r e nntl ' r l ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ l l , ~ thc>rc? nrr ~ e v r r a l mnni-walls a.nd ~nn,ri-pilcn.
Thu means hnth, go 1nc:nns h ~ n d , and lho moann nonth. Ti h e t ~ n s t ake their hath here
"r at least wanh their hchdn. $:vrn t ho allrep and yrku are s~r i nkl r cl with t he holy wntor of
I~nkn. 'I'hiu gompn is nit,l~nt,e(l within n few yr r ds from t ho ~hor r n of tllr J~n.ltn
'"'1 ifl flrving cn.sI.. Tlliu in 1.h" most itnpornnt of all I , I I I X I ~ ~ . k r - ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ n n ~ t , c r r i w. 'rhr1.n is tollf' inln~cl
K A I L A S - MANAS AROVAR
the last monastery of the Holy 1,ake with 1 lama and
7 dabns ; from here up t o Goss~il the path 'goes alollg
the shores of the Lake,
i m. Anura chhu, swan-colony,
l i m. through marshes to Namreldi chhu' ; cross the I+ feet
deep river to its left bank,
$m. Thandova chhu, a tributary of the above.
lam. Selung-hurdung chhu, cross the 2 feet deep river to its
left bank ; this river often wanders and changes its
course and sometimes joins the Namreldi chhu in its
lower course,
lm. Momodungu2, foundatior~s of a ruined donkhang,
gm. Shushup tso or Yushup tso,-
2m. over shingle bank to the other extremity of Shushup
tso3, c.,
lm. Takshur, mani-wall, a little up the road are the walled
enclosures of shepherds who camp here in winter,
of Kangri-Lhabsen in chenkhang and L)orjochl~ang i n duvang. Here is t he fourth ling of the
Lake.
The 108 volumes of Kanj ur , t he imago of Thuj i Chhirnbo ( ?) studded with precious
stones, and some ot her idols, arld some vltluablebanners were brought here from Gossul GompD
i n t he aut umn of 1946 foraafe custody and bet t er u ~ e . Through a window in t he northernside
of t he gompa one can enjoy a fino view of Kailas over t he Holy Luke.
There are two
flag-~baffs, one inside t ho court yard ant1 tho ot her j ust out si de t he pornpa. Thugolho and
Gossul Cornpa &re t he branches of Simbiling Monastery of Takl akot , from where monks
ar e deput ed here for a period of t hree ycnrs.
The aut hor had sojourned here for hit3 sadhana for a twelve-mont,h in 1936-37 and
si rt een. mont h i n 1943-44 and spellcis t he rainy ncanon every year here. Bhajane and
Havana ar e contluctetl here on t he occasion of Janmashlarni a nd Shruvani every Yenr
wince 1936. At his s~lggewtion Sri K;~. r~akntlnndi Nt ~ r ~ y l t n a Snstri, Gopal Krishnu S~.atri, find
Shankfir* S ~ s t r i of Ye n l ~ g ~ ~ n ~ ~ t h a l , Gocl:~v;cri I )ist,rirt ( ~ ; ~ r l h r : ~ ) Itavo got n. 1)eautiful Yajna red'
conetructetl here in memory of hheir Fi~ther Shrec: Vinv;tpnti Snstri. A two-storeyed Hanod"
Vishramnehala is under c or ~s t r ~~c t i on. I,
There ar e eight hounen and a small donkl~rcng ncwr thi: mo n t c n t c ~, hut tho villngrm most'?
live in shepherd cumpn and rome hero occ:anionally. A manrli is held herc for about @ monttll
in d u l y - Au g ~s t where R ~ O I I ~ . 15 Hhotin merchnnto of Clhnudann and Byrtns gather. Thin in
a hig wool-shearing centre and is popular1.y known a s Thokur Mandi hy I ndi ms ; hut i t hnn
no connection whntnoever with t he word Thakur. On t,hc sout h nf t he gompn thore are la'?
peak8 over 17,000 feet high in t he i t l ar~t l hat a Range. The weatern peak is culled Thubbu-"
find is a t a d i s t ~ n c e of rrhout. Rim. from horc.
Jqrc~ln t op of tllis
onc can commend
one of t he ~ ~ U n d ~ f l t pn,noramic viowe of t he whole of Mannw, Rnkflhaw with i t s i s l ~ n d e ~ K~ f l ~ ~ l
~ n d t he whtrle stretc:h from T i r t h r ~ ~ l ~ r i t o Tllokr.hen. One cnn nluo hnvo @ POP Int o
t he Namreldi gorge on tho nollt,h.
From Thllgolho one rand goes t o C; I I ~I I L la, the: tletl~iln of which a.rc xus.foll:hn :
t o Namreldi rhhu 2m.; Se l ~r ng- h~~r t l r ~ng vhhu I j m. ( f r ~j m Ilrrv 111rto Cur l s la i t is
gentle
aacent) ; Qogta 24rn., C. ; C!., 1e, 34m.; Gurln la l im. ; t,~bt,ttl !lJm.
L
I n t he upper part^ of t ho valley of t hi s rivrw thc,ro n,rc? v:rrirt,irs of flowrr-l)rdfl,
CaVe8. and t wo h e n l ~ t ~ i f ~ ~ l c?n~nral~l-green l ~i kns a l mo~t , I L ~ , t,hr head of t he v~. l l ey. Going 8 litt'lr
furt her up, one p ~ ~ t h goes t o P~l rfi ng, Imt i t is IL very tliffic~~lt. jonrnoy.
2 There RCC nev(:n VH~ P I I R stat IIP in a'row, cnvh cairn cont, txinip~ ~t. ;)nre likc the hhrris "
~ 1 1 7 , brick-teu, thht~, et.t. I t i~ I~olicvrd I)y t,lte Til,ct,unw t.h;l.t nevrn lnairlenn from
brought and pluced the111 here.
Here in t,he follrth chnnqj/,-!,/~n~~ of thn Manan.
3 ~Yhusli*lp means how und 180 meunn Inkc..
Thi s lakelet S ~ I I P ~ I I P tuo in how-like in nhrp
and run8 d m o ~ t p ~ r ~ l l e l t o t hr M~ ~ n a s , anhinglr? hnltk of ;I'iiollt 60 feet l)rondsoparatin~thebot'h'
The lake i8 nhot ~t -UX)-FiOO yurtlnI~roxrl a.nd iu 6hc hrortlinRpluee nf ngnngl'n, ngnta,antl chka,m'
A t t he wertrrn end of t he lako t hem in anot her nmnII1akclet. nrgi nni ng from the mldtlla
of s h r l ~ h l ~ p t.90 111) tr) am. ht?yontl GORRIII aoml)n, Kailns is not v i s i ~ ) ~ r from t,ho pilgrim 'olltr.
T A B L E I V 135
2im. Gossul-lhoma,
a little above the road is a chhorten (a
" little higher up this place is the camping place of shep-
herds), one path goes to Gossul Gompa via this chhorten ;
one may either go along the shore or via this chhorten,
4. Gossul Gompa (105) (64) $m. further along the shores and
then very steep ascent of about 100 yards to the gompa.
The $arikrama of the Holy Manasarovarl is completed
here.
TABLE IV
TAKLAKOT TO IIHOCHARNATH-12 MTLES
Taklakot (0) (0) (see pp. 100, 121) ; pm. ascent t o the new
chlzorten ;
Gukung (4) (4) m . steep descent, cave-d~velliugs, gompa,
cross the bridge on the Map chhu or Karnali to its left
bank,
Dangechhen chhu (+) (g) cross the river by bridge, and the ponies
c
shall ,have to wade the river, the village Dangechhen is
about a mile up the bridge, from here up to Gejin
there are villages and cultivation on both sides of the
road, long i+za~zi-~ralls and chkorte~zs,
Kirong (1;) (2) just on the left side of the road is the danza2,
Gejin chhu ( 1 ) (3) cross the river to its left bank,
Gejin3
(a) (33) the village is srtuated on both sides of the road,
Dup-chhu (1) (4i) 011 the left side of the road there is a small spring
' ~I ans s nr ov~. r is 54 111i1cs ill ~ r t r ~ n l r i r r l ~mf r r cnr n ant1 is lunrh bronder in t l ~ o nort h
tha~l in t he south ant1 it, httK regl ~l ar con.st,s ; ant1 t ho Ji,nkshn.s is '77111. in ri rcr~mferrnrc and
has most irregl~lnr c-onst,n. The Uormrr in 200 sq. miles i n area nntl t he lntt,er 140 sq. milos.
I)ltring tho rainy senRon one ca,nnot go n l o n ~ t he ron.st of Mn , n ~s Iwt\rreen MnIInthnk and
(!horkip ant1 Tat s nl ~l n~ t o S:rmn t,sn.ngpo ; b11t whon t,hc T,nkc is froxt?n in winter one r an go
throllghout nlong tho sllnrrs. ( s w lpirst. \ Va ~ v ) .
Damn or t r 37na is n, ROrt o f g o ~n p n for tenipom~ry st ay of t,hr monks dltring t he harvest
s0~30n. The monks ofSilnI,iIing (.:n~npn helonging t o bhtr I<irnnggrollp of villngesrome a n d ~ t n y
hero for n fortnight to (lo pttjnn for a goo11 crol, nntl for five or ~ i x weeks i n t he harvest ern-
""' tto ~01lrc.t tho h.nnnn.1 tlot;a~t,ions of grains from t,l~c: villngrm. I,n.mn Nov-Knshok hn,s got
t h i ~ conat,r~lct~ed. It, is kr pt very ncnt ant1 r l ~n t l nntl t,he dnit.irn in t,ho imnge-h~11 n.ro thofie
"f (:hrmhn, . rn~nl , yn. n~. ~,ok~sn.ngrlnv~~-. ~ n t l I)olmn.
3 Very nsnr tho vi l l n~e 100 r a r r l ~ I I ~ t,ho rontl nrr t,l~gfoot.prints of Atisha, or Shrrejnnna ;
J1lnt OPp~ditlc this plnrc on t,h; Ipft, hank of t hr river Knrnali, sit,rlnOrd on t he t,op of a moun-
bin, in the gompa of Si t l t l i - k~r , n b r ~ n r h of Simhiling. Fr om t, hr t op of t h r monnfltery one
'an have tho honnt,if\ll view of t.ho Knrnnli 1-n.llry from Sirnbiling t,o Khochnr. There l l ~r t l
8 big fortc hcrr, urhich wain tlnnt,*oyc.tl I,,y t,hr Q~ ~ r k h n n in 18154 ; six frot. tshirk and 25
fwt hiuh r l ~ i t ~ ~ r l ( *ol l l ~nn~
stsill RCPI ~.
'I'hrro Brcb nomr villngrs nrnrhy with plenty of rrllti-
vation.
'I'hl~st! who wn.nt, t,o visit, t . hi ~ goln[,n nhnll hnvo t,o tlo 80 from Tnklnkot dirrc.t n.long
the ri~llt, hank of Ka,rnnll, for it is clangrro~ts t o yross t,he river tllrring pilgrim 8clflRon.
136 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
of this name, said t o have been dug by Deepankar
Shreejnan, from here no fields up t o Kangje, '
Kangje chhu (38) (8) cross the river t o its left bank1 ; 1m. steep
ascent, lnptche, from here up t o Khochar it appears to
be volcanic area once ; 2m. descent, ruined chhortens,
~lza~ti-walls, Znptche, cairns ; Khochar is first seen from
here,
Lalung chhu (34) (114) fm. from here fields begin again, cross the
river t o its lett bank,
1. Khocharnath (2) (12) Tibetans call it simply Khochar, G., mani-walls
(see pp. 64, 101).
TABLE V
TAKLAKOT TO KAILAS (TARCHHEN)
via GYANIMA MANDI, TIRTHAPURI,
AND DULCHU-I11 MILES
Taklakot (0) (0) (see pp. 101, 121),
3n1. Toyo, village, plenty of cultivation,
i m. cross the Garu chhu t o its right bank by bridge, ' Dela-
ling village, mani-walls, two big chhortetzs above the
village,
2m. cross the Lee chhu t o its right hank, Lee or Toyolh3,
7 houses of the villagers of Toyo, cultivation,
I i m. Chhurkuti, extinct craters (on the other bank of the
Karnali there is a luke-warm water spring),
1iln. Salung camp, C., (the village Salung is pn the rigllt bank
of the Karnali with four houses and
cultivation, a little
further up is the village Doh with plenty of cultivation)l
l&ll. Ronam, two furlongs up the road is the village of Ronarn~
with three houses, cultivation,
lm. Ringung chhu, cross the river t o its right bank, the village
Ringutlg is about a mile up this place,
Sillcli-khnr is Snl. from Takl skot and t ho villago ~ ~ k p ~ ~ is Dm. from there, and ~hi t ur - phl l ~
i~ gfn. hoyontl t hnt plncc. Thr r e is a cnvo bore ahorl t which i t is said t ha t u dogonce enfAnd it
ant1 rliaappnnred (khi-dog, snrl t vr- f l t ~l &WRY
disnppoered).
It is belioved t hat lepsrs nm
cure(l of their di ~e a s e by visiting this cave. From here one pnth goes t o ~hochnr not h which
- -
i s a t R distance of 10m.
1 O n other ~ i d o of t ho rivcr thore nrr: pnn,.ch,1kia or wat,cr-power driven mius for grinding
bar1o.y anrl pna. 'l'hc-rc: i r r big grovc of chnWm,n trrnn i n t he t ~e d of tho river e little
this
plnrn.
On ttho loft bank of t hc river tho village of h n g j c in situnt,cd on
~l*' IhO
roar1 with pl wt y of cultiv:~+,ion.
Tlkoro is a monn~t , orv i n t,ho vi l l n~e tha~t, I@ on the lafb
of tho ro:bci :tnrl-it i s s brnnrh of ( : hang- ~~~g- / i ng ~o n n n t c ~r y .
90. Mount Ke i h
Sl. MoMt Kailee from
ib 60uGhm foot
[ 8 e e p . 111
93. Kdee-*a-
0-Ver RegiQn
from a Tibeban
Painti ing,bum
by &ma Nau-
Kwh&
[See pp. 10,14,l28
11 Eolp Mount Kailas
81 Wung e .
8, Tming-Chenga
4 6 Nyasri Peak ,
4, Ponri Peak
a* awl@ Mandharta
7- ThUki-Zingboo
8' %zG&%palt~
@, 3cwky&1.mh~ng0 a
10. my Lake Illtm8wwav~tr
11. Rbkorhae Tal of Rrcran
lo* Lac&*
18, 9-a
"p L b mu a
T~nbhrm Ch h ~ 0
Zhong Chhu
(Xanga Chhu
Samo Taangpo
Tag Teangpo
Nimapendi
Tarohhen
Parkha
Nyenri Gompa
Zubhul-phuk Gompa
Gengta Gomprc
&ilwng aompa
Gloeed bnpa
Ohiu Ucympr
Cherldp &lompa
Lengpone Garnpcl
Pond Gompa
32. Serelung Qompe .
33. Yango h p n
34. Thugolho Qorrmpa
(Thokgr
85. Taepgye aompa
86. T ~ h h - Cshhalt-~hhal- .
Benet
37. Terbohghhe (flegsW)
88. Ohhartem I(;esllpPJrf
39. Elhspji (footpiat)
40. 3Jicnurn 'QO
41. ~ndun~%-m
42. ~ ~ l m e u
43. f ?l hapj ad~ok
44. Tarko La or 8tlra La,
Ch~k.c.hhal*gang
06. Sunrise on the Celes-
tial Lake
[ See p. 193
T ABL E V 137
4111. Map chhu or Kartlali, cross the 3-4 feet deep Karilali
to its right bank,
lam. Harkoilg chhu, on the right side of the road le, a few
plots of cultivation, (a little below this is the coduence
of Harkong chhu and the Karnali, on the other side of the
Harkong chhu are some caves or Kern),
1. Harkong (14;) (14i) 2im. up the Harkong valley, 1 house, black
tents, a little cultivation, caves, on the top of ihe moun-
tain on the right are the ruined columns of a fort destroyed
by Zoravar,
62m. [17,000 ?] Ur la, the last gin. steep ascent, Ia$tche, Mandhata
is seen from here,
lm. very steep descent to Tarachen, C.,
Mapcha-Chungo' (82) (23) [14,300] lin. Traditional Source of
the Karnali,
lgm. Rapka chhu, C., cross it to its left bal k,
am. Map chhu,
cross the 3-4 feet deep and rapid torrent of
Karilali to its left bank, C.,
lm. ascent, lafitclze,
2. Anlang
(14i) (28g) 29m.
descent to Anlang or Amlailg, le, much
infested by robbers,
l i m. Shing-laptcl~e la, last one mile steep ascent, laptchr,
lni. veqr steep descent to a stream, cross to its right bank, C.,
4m. Phangma-digir, ln~tche, the road takes a sharp turn
towards the left.
2m. Clihuju or Chhuja, several black tents, le,
29m. Chhuju la, last. two miles steep ascent, laptclze,
Chhakra Mandia (16) (44) 4111. the first two miles 1-erjr steep
descent,
ID
I 011 tho right side of t ho road
on t ho odge of t ho right ba.nk of Na p chhn there
is a big mani-wall with s ove r ~l mani-slabs anti streamers. Getting down R few yn,rds towards
tho river is tho 1)ig spring,of &l Ci apcl l a-~~nl l l go (poxcorlr-hond) guuhing o11t. from t he perpondi-
clllar wall of the stoop bank of t he river. There arn somo ~nni ~i -st onen nnd st.renmeru near t he
spring. Tho matcr gushing out of t ho spring flows down intm thrICn.rnnIi below over a beautiful
f i r o o n ~ ~ l v e t ~ ~ ~ ~ o s s ~ d o m ~ - l i k ~ ~ o ~ ~ c l . 'J'll~ IrloAR over w11ic.h l,hc aprilig flo\lrs down ha.s somr
re~omhlanco t o t i ~ c colollr of t,ho I ~ C C ] ~ of tllr: pca,cork, 11011ncj t he nnmo PI'Iapcl~x-Chungo.
T,he glacinl so rcos of t,lle Knrnn,li is ill t,llo [,nnlpiyn panu whit-11 is nt. 1% distnnce of two fihort
(l a9~' 1nctrc.h $om hcrc.
At a di.st:l,nco of al,ollt 41n. f r , ~l n hcrc is t he f i ~mons ~ ~ : I . I I ~ ~ I I ~ I I I ~ ( ~ ( J I I I ~ ~ i t ~ ~ a t r d on 0. ~ ~ O I I I I -
trin on tho loft, ~ J I I ~ i t is llot ueen fro111 t,lle road. It \,clonpu t o t$ho ll,ed Cap Section of 11lollks.
It wan const,ruotod &bout t ho yefir 1919 n,nd a six-year old t t r l k ~ ~ I n~nn hns been installed on t,lle
!iddi in Anguat 1940. T h i ~ is t,ho ~cconr l ahbot t o si t ou tthr gnddi of tho gomIJn.
'Phis i 8 cnllod Chhakra or Gyani m~-Chhakm, .
This i~ a big mandi clriefly of t he I)a,rrn;l
Bhotias, hnt somo Johnri perchal l t s
come hsfo aft er t he mandi of Gynnima-Khnrkf
wound up. Tho man& i s held i n Augllst and tho firat half of September..
There 1s
Rm~l l f r ns l ~ water spring nonr t he mandi alld R lake all around which there are wh ~ t e deposits
so(la. A Atroam from t hi s lake flqws i nt o t ho Gyanimn lake.
Chha,kra is under t he JIITIR-
diction of Parkha Tasnm.
From tllo t,op of t he hill a t t ho foot of which tho mandi i s held,
can onjoy t he bcal ~t i ful vinw of tho Kxilns Psnk.
18
3. Gyanima MandiL (6) (49) [15,000] 5111. 011 1)oglaiid to Gyanima,
also called Kharko, O
4Qm. Gyanima-rap on marshy grotznd, cross the 3-4 feet deep
Gyanima chhu t o its right bank, from here the source
of the Darma-yankti is a t a distance of two days' journey ;
:l$m. low pass, last gm. steep ascent,
.5m. Chhurulba la, first Qm. steep descent and the last
24m. very steep ascent,
4. Shithum (15;) (642) 3m. t o Shithum, first i-m. steep descent
and the rest descent, C., four valleys meet here, a narrow
place, a small brook,
3m. ascent up t o Tara la, lnptche,
Fim. continuous and very steep descent to the dry bed of a
stream,
3m. down the bed of a, stream to the Tirthapuri tsangpo or
Sutlej,
km. down the Sutlej, cross the river t o its right bank,
5. Tirthapuri Gompa (112) (76) [14,600] called Tretapuri in
Tibetan, (see p. 103),
5qm. ~ i o k ~ o - n u ~ chhu, cross 2-3 feet deep swift river to its
left bank, Ze on either side,
fm. Trokpo-shar chhu, cross the 3 feet deep ferocious river
t o its left bank, 0 0
2m. Sutlej, cross the 2-3 feet deep Sutlej t o its left bank,
(river Goyak flows into the Sutlej on its right bank
opposite this place),
4m. Chukta, (this river also flows into the Sutlej on its right
bank), from here the river Sutlej becomes a mere
brook like a small chanAel used for watering fields ;
l m. further cross the Sutlej to its right bank.
6. Dulchu Ctompa (16) (90) [14,820] lm. further is the Th~lchu Gompa
situated on the right bank of the Sutlej.
At a distance
of 250 yarcls from the gonlpa is the ~raditional source
of the Sutlej (see p. 103, 105, and Table VI),
(:y*nimn i~ t he bi gge ~t mnnrli in wc~trbrn Ti hr t mostly of ,J(~hn.r I3hotia.t hdd from the:
mi(l(lle of .July t o t he end of Angust, but nlc1rrhxrlt.n from Nitmi, &l:~nn, Nilnng, R,nmpllr, Rlldokl
Kullll, r~mdakh, Timi, Nepal, Lhnsa, n.nrl P~~ri ct l g ant1 ot hr r pnrtn como hr r r . A1,ollt fi00.m
tent3 are pitched hero. Two or three fret high pat.;~.pct.tc nre nrrct,rtl with clods of enrth brol!dht'
from nen,rhy r na mhe ~ and t ent s nm set 11p over t,llc>m. Stonon sr o npl-cnd on t he ground R1nr"
i t in vr r y (lamp.
Excepting vegot abl ~n R V I + ~ ~ ot,her a.rt.icles t ha t conlrl hr hntl from
I,i~zaar i n Indi a can ho had hero. There in 110 plrrcn hnllse hero so far : hut n kvleha hllt.hn8
heen built for t he Yong-ohhong (Tibatan Trnrle Officer) in 1045.
Them are frc~sh\vnter W n U R
for drinking water and e small ~ t r n n m rising oot of t ho rnn.rshcs flo\\-s hy t,he Ride of thr
mandiendfallsinto t he l nke c al l e d~~~ni ma- r ap. There nre iiho rllilrn ofnn old fort deutroyed
Zoravar Singh, 8 i t l l ~ t ~ d on t he northern ext,romity of t he bill, is t,o t.111- rnst of t>he m&nd1.
Hence t h i ~ p l ~ ~ e i n called Gyarlimrr-kherko (fort). Kniln,s in soon hot11 from thin plaro
from t ho t op of t he hillock in t,hn mnnrli. Clpn.nimn. is 11ndrr t he jl~riarliction of Dnrn zntV.
T A B L E v1 139
aim. Cliangje-changju, Ze,
. 7Qm. Kerleb chhu cross the 2 to 2$. feet deep river t o its left
bank,
3m. 1,ha chhu, cross the 2-3 feet deep,swift river to its left
bank,
7. Tarchhen (21) (11 1) 2i111. t o Tarchheii (see 11. 106 and Tal~le 11).
TAKLAKOT TO TIRTHAPURI
BY SHORT CUT AND THENCE DIKECI' '1'0
KAILAS (NYANRI G0MPA)-93m.
Taklskot (0) (0) (see p. 121 and Table V),
10im. Ringung chhu (see Table V),
1. Map chhu (11i) (11i) $111. on the left bank of the Karilali,
gin. Duiigmar chhul
i ni . just opposite this place on the other side of Karnali is
the confluence of Harkong chhu and the Karnali,
$m. Baldak ckhu, froni here up t o Gurla chhu marshes,
riding pilgrims should be careful, i t niould be better if
tll)ey could walk this distance,
1111. Gurla c h l ~ u ~ , cross the 14- to 2 feet deep river to its
right bank (a little down this place the Gurla chhu falls
into the Karnali),
lam. up along the Kasiiali ; leaving the route to the left
proceed 200 yards lmwards the right to a laptche,
$1. 011 a plateau,
i m. descent to a place called KO, a little cultivation,
2m. Gyungdi, springs in marshy lands,
am. Chhalni, fields of Kardung ; (gm. further leave the
Rarnali to the left and go up along the Chhibra chhu),
2. Chhipra camp (122) (24) 4&m. Chhipra or Chhibra camp
, oil the Chhipra chhu,
2111. "chhipsa In steep ascent, daplckc, ta~chok, from here Mail-
dhata arlcl Dllauli peaks of Nepal are seen,
2111. very steep descent up to Cliliipra-do ; the left side valley
leads to Anlang and the right one to Rakshas Tal,
' Tho villt~go D I I I \ ~ ~ ~ ; I ~ i n o,tntlist:~nc,e uf d ~ n . frolnIlero; l)ungrnart.o Ynrbrr l m. and thence
Lo Bnldak i t is 4m.
lbm. 11p t h i ~ plnco sil~~n(,crl ih, t l ~ o IcA I,n.uk of Ourlt~ chhu ie tho villago Knrdung
(1car-w11il.r and t t r r , ! , - ronr.11 ) ; ntrnlctl nf t , w t.11~ hill w11ic.h i n liko n whito concll.
i m. ascent to a In or pass, laptche, Kailas is seen froln
here, 6l
2m. very steep and steep descent t o Gyekungl,
am. ascent, laptche,
$m. descent, laptche, Mandhata is seen,
lm. on an extensive maidan, crossing of Gyaniina-Rakshas
road,
Qni. mild descent,
&m. mild ascent t o the spur of a hill, le,
lm. along the foot of a mountain at the edge of a maidan,
3. Yupcha2 (11i) (%a) small springs, extensive plain,
2in1. mild ascent to a la, Rakshas Tal, Mandhata, Nanda
Devi (?), and Trisul (?) are seen,
Qm. very steep ascent,
2am. plain (water from this nzaidan flows towards Rakshas),
lm. mild ascent t o Chhalam la, also called Thalam la, fine
view of Kailas, cairns, laptche, crossing of Gyanima-
Kailas route, (Chhumikshala is about 3m. from here);
2111. mild, steep, and mild descent, le,
i m. steep and mild descent t o the dry bed of a stream which
meets the Chhumikshala which in turn falls into the
Sutlej,
3m. on plain t o Domar, mani-wall at the foot,of the spub of
a red mountain,
Sutlej (14t) (494) 29m, along the foot of a inountain to the
bank of the Sutlej,
l m. along the winding course of the Sutlej on marshes,
Sutlej is 6 feet broad and 2 feet deep ; cross it to its
left bank,
c
Langchen Khambab (I$) (50f) am. on marshes to the La%-
chen Khambab springs situated in a 5@ yard square
of marshes. This is the source of t hs Sutlej according
t o Tibetati traditioris and niythology ; from here UP to
Iiakshas Tal the river is called Tso-lungba,
4. Dulchu Gompa (i) (51) $111. gompa mani-walls, (see 13. 103))
gni. cross the Sutlej to its left bank,
I
i m. good camping ground,
$m. Sutlej broadens into a lake,
j$l. Chukta chhul is flowing into the Sutlej on its right
bank,
$4. the Sutlej flows through a narrow passage between two
inouiltains,
l i m. laptche,
l+m. dry bed of a stream,
i m. Sutlej, cross the 3 feet deep swift Sutlej toits right bank ;
(for 2 rniles up the Sutlej several shepherds camp in
rainy season, for there is good pasture here ; this place
is called Shekarij e) ,
2n1. Trokpo-shar chhu2, cross it to its right ba~ik, route is
marshy (see Table V),
$111. steep ascent, laptclze,
Qm. ups and downs,
Qm. steep descent t o Trokpo-nup, this river is also very
ferocious, 3 feet deep, cross it to its right bank,
&I. steep ascent, laptche,
2im. on plateau, to a circle of ~tzn~zdals called Kbaildoma,
liin. on a plateau to the bed of a dry streanl,
i m. dry stream,
5. Tirthapuri (14) (65) iin. Tirthapuri Gompa (see p. 103))
64m. Trokpo-nup chhu, cross the 3 feet deep swift river to
its lgft bank, le on either side of the river,
lm. Trokpo-shar, cross tlie 3 feet deep river to its left bank,
lnptche,
The Chukta chhu comes from the Kailas Rangc and falls into the Sutlej ou iLs right bank
opposite this place. The mouth of t he river is about )m. broad, aud flows into the Sutlej
in several rnmificatio~ls and brings down about ton times as much water as t hc tiny brook of
Sutlej brings. During the r ~i l l y season somdirnes i t swolls t o 50 times t hat of t he Sutlej.
Up till hero the Sutlej has got the appearance and size of a small watering channel or n
Ilrook ; but nftcr receiving the Chukta i t attains tho grandeur i u ~d dignit31 of a Himalaynn
"vor.
The flow also becomes ruoro rapid.
For )m. from here i t flows in a narrow valley
tllrollgh stoep alld hia\, mountt~ins.
The scone here is a t ouce grund and sublime and onc
foe18 a sort of eshilnration whila pnssing tliroligh this valley.
I t is also onllrd Tokpo:shar.
Tr okpo- ~har and Trokpo-nup arc both fcrocioua and decp
torrents. So some pilgrirus calllp here, go t,o Tirtha.pnri, and coma back by tbe evening t o
the troublu of ~nl ~ki l l g all tho luggago animnls cross these two rivers twirc over.
The
confluence of' this river with the Hatlej is vcrg llcar and is situated in tho middle of a steep
and narrow gorgo. The dctn.ils of t l ~ e road from Trokpo-shar hero t o Tarchhen is as follows :
Tlrthapuri t o , Tr ok. po- ~~l ~p (:hllll ij)m., Trokpo-shar qm. , QoyaIi chhu am., Chulct,a rhhu 79m.,
"080 the 3 feot t1cr.p river to its left hank, (t,otnl I5&1n.) for tho first dcy ; Cl ~nkt ~n t o Sharln-
chakang 2)1n., Shar In ]tm.. lnplche, i t is only a pass in nalno but not n pass n.t all, (herc is a
Inountain on w$icll fil.lls the shadom of t , l ~c Holy Icnilns l'eak on l7nishaI;hn Pumi ma ; red
from this ~nollntain is ta,ken nR prashd which is conaidcrcd ctfficncioos in cwring cert.ain
"ttle di ae~f l c~) ; Im. Knrleb ch1111, lnptche ; 1/10m. loplchr, 3/1Gm. laptclre, row ofcairns, CrORS
fcot deep Knrl cl ~ ; 1; ~ n . on(? b r ~ ~ n c l ~ of Knrlcl) ; 2 1". on n ~ a r ~ h r s : 1 In. main river of I(nrleb
'llhu, ?row t,ho 2-23 fcpt del,p ri\,cr t o il,s loft 11nnli : 11111. Ic : I ~ I I I . n rllllll ; {In. nnotllcr
'lllzll llrook : l ~ n . ono Illore ~l nnl l 1,rook ; l/Hln. ~1 . 1 ~t p :1sr*('111,, Iaj)lchc. gr;lllcl vic Str of r<:liln.s
'"ld tho 1.11;~ c t ~ l ) ~ ~ ;
I / H I I ~ . 011 1,111, pn.ss ;
4111. \ ~ C~ I . J ' ht.t!lb)) ( I ( ~S( . ( . I I ~. t80 t.hc* I J I I I I ~C I>[ t.hn Irh:l
"l rl l l l ; ldm. np ;IILIIIR t,hc T, ~I ; I . cl1l111a1.o Nyonri Go~l ~l , n. 1,lln chhn I)l.itlgc (bot.al 12111. fof ~ J I ( '
mend day). So Tirt,l~n.,irlri i g 27a1n. froln Nynnri :~ncl 'L';lrcl111(.11 i s nhnost c.quirlistnnt fronl
Tirthapuri.
142 K A I L A S - Mr i N A S A K O V A K
22m. 'l'asam-lam crossing,
l sm. a branch of Goyak,
#m. Goyak chhu, le,
a
6. Clhukta chhu (15) (80) 22m. camping ground of Korpons,
l m. Sakchung chhu, a small brook,
2m. Shalachakoiig (l m. up this place are tlie black tents
of Korpoiis, the subjects of Tarchhen Labrang),
Bm. Tak-chung chhu,
2m. Jalung-kha-mar.
Karlep chhu (7;) (872) 2m. also called Karleb chhu, le, after mid-
day the river becomes very turbulent and unfordable,
since huge stones are incessantly washed down by the
heavy floods of melted ice, cross the 2 feet deep river
to its left bank, le,
BQm. Jamarmo chhu (from here one route goes direct to
'l'archhen) ,
in1. 3 brook, big le, nzani-walls,
i m. steep ascent t o a pass, laptche, grand view of Kailas
and the Lha chhu branching into a network of several
sparkling streamlets,
gni. very steep descent through boulders to the right bank
of &ha chhu,
7. Kailas (Nyanri Gompa) (6$) (93) l t m. along $he Lha chku to
the bridge on the river below Nyarlri Gon~pa (see
'l'able 11).
TABLE VII
KAILAS (TARCHHEN TO G~ ANI MA MANDI-- 38 MILES
Kailas (Tarchhen) (0) (o)
2:m. Lha chliu, cross the 3 feet deep river to its right balk
am. Karleb chhu, cross the 2) feet deep river to its right b a d ~
83m. on a sandy plain to Satlej, crass the one-foot deep brook
of Sutlej t o its left bank,
' nl . Lejendak or Lalongtak, le, leaving the d ~ ~ d e j to th;
2
right, situated in the wall of the moulltaili to the right
side of the road, here are several big caves which are
often infested by robbers,
t m. ascent to Lalingtak la, laptcl~e, ,
I . C'llhuinikshala (219) (218 6& miles atso called ~lrhmnarshala annd
Chliornishala, le, cave, small l~rook, Uulchu C.omPa is
see11 at a distalice on the right hand side,
T AB L E V I I I 143
3111. Chalaizl la, laptclze, cairns, Kailas is seen up till here,
from here one road goes to Dulchu Gompa 1\-11ich is at
a distance of 9im.
4111. mild clesceiit t o Randak clzhu, C.,
lin. Pasalung la, laptche,
3m. Pasalung, first $111. steep descent, C.,
i m. Rap, cross the 2 to 3 feet deep Rap of the Gyanima
chhu t o its left bank, the ground is marshy here ; (rap
ilieans fording place),
2. Gyanima Mandi (16i) (38) l i t n. get up the Gyanima-khar
hill, then get down t o the other side, cross the stream
to Gyanima Mandi, (see Table V).
TABLE VI I I
AN ABSTRACT OF THE WHOLE ROUTE FKO3l BLMORA ' J!O THE HOLY
KAILAS VI A LIPU LEKH PASS, TAKLAKOT, DULCHU GOMFA AND
'PIRTHAPURI, KAILAS-PARIKRAlVIA, MANASAROVAR-PARIKR.431-4, AND
BACK TO ALMORA VIA GURLA PASS, TAKLAI?:OT, KI-IOCHARXATH, AND
GARHYANG-58Oi RIILES
0
1. Almora
Bade-chhina
Dhaul-chhina
Bunga
Kanari-chhiila
2. Seraghat
Ganai
Banspatan
Suklyacli
3. BERINAG
Gartir
4. l'hal
Sa~~d?v ,
5. nidihat
AS KO'r'
6. Jauljil~i
Ralvakot
7. Dharchula
# \
1 apovan
8. KHE1,A
Pang11
Distance Total
hrt,norn t wn mileage
places
0
8 $
5 13;
2-12
22
5-1-
4
2 4
6
6
3
G A I L A S - RI ANAS AROVAR
Soosa . . 3 l09g
Sirdaiig . . Zg ,
Sirkha . . 1
3
Jipti . . 11 123a
Najailg falls , . 5f
Nalpa . . 2.1- 2 1314
Budhi . . 83 4
Garbyang . . 5 145;
Kalapani . . 11 156;
LIPU LEKH PASS . . st 165;
Pala . . 6
Taklakot . . 5 1766
Ringung chhu . . lo$
Map chhu or Karnali . . . 4 3 187:
Chippra camp . . 122 200;
Chhipra la . . 2
Y upcha . . !I$ 211;
'I'halam la . . 6g
Sutlej . . 8
1,angchen Khambab . . I2
Dulohu Gompa . . 2 227
Trokpo-shar chhu . . 8
Tirthapuri . . 6 , 241
'l'akpo-shar chhu . . Ti
Chukta chhu . . 7 4 256
Karlep chhu . . 7 3 4
Kailas (Tarohhen) . . 5 2 269
Nyanri Gompa . . 5
Ilira-phuk Gompa q . . 74 2814
DOLMA 1,A . . 4
Gouri-kund . .
1
T
Zuthul-phuk (:ompa . . 92
Zhong chhu go . . ' 4 2!18:
Gyurna chhu . . 11;
Kuglung Chhu . . 2 4 :1 31 3
l'alcheli
I
. . 8; I '
I'alchung . . I;
Snlno tsatigpo
6) 3
. . '4
Seri~lung C>ornpa . . 3 3 320
'Cag tsnngpo . . .
Yert~go Gornp:~
3
. .
9 t
5;
Thugolho Gompa (Manasarovar) . . 2k 346
( hula la
+
. . !I;
(:l~rla-phuk ((hi-udyar) . . 4
Baldak
Taklakot
Khocharnath
Taklakot
Pala
LIPU LEKH PASS
Kalapani
Garbyang
Malpa
Jipti
Soosa ..
KHELA
Dharclhula
JAUL JIB1
Didihat
Thal
REKINAC:
Seraghat
Bade-chhinn
Almora'
AHSTRACrI' OF RCILEAGES BEl'IVEEN
IMPORTANT PT,ACES I N KAILAS KHAN1)A
AND KEDAR KHANDA
1. Almora to 1,ipu I,ekh pass (Indo-Tihetail Border) 1654
2. 1,ipt:r Lekll to Kailas . . 72;
. .\lmora to Kailas via I,ipu 1,ekli pass 2.78
4. Almoia to Kailas via Darnla pass . 227
5. Alr~iora to Kailas via Unta-dhura pass . . 210
0. Joshinlath to Kailas 17ia Gttla-Niti,pass . , 200
Lsnving a margin of 10 day8 more for halte and making ~. r r angom~nt f l for convcyanco,
One can finish tho whole journey i n t wo mont,hs, including t he parikramna of t he Holy Kailns
and Ma~lnsnmvar and n v i ~ i t t o t ho Qyanilne Mandi, Tirhhapuri, nnd Khorharnnt l ~. Those
oannot Rpere AO rnl~ell time and cannot undergo privations for snrh al ong time mny rhnlli
the itfillorary for ~, ~RI URP~VOR t,o sui t their convonionm, fro111 the t a h l e ~ givcn herein.
Joshimath t o Kailas via Danjan-Niti pass w e .
Joshimath to Kailas via Hoti-Niti pass . . . .
Badrinath t o Kailas via Mana pass . .
Mukhllva (Gangotri) t o Kailas via Jelukhaga pass
Simla t o Kailas via Shipki pass and Gartok . .
Simla to Kailas via Shipki pass and Tuling . .
Srinagar (Kashmir) t o Kailas via Ladakh . .
Pashupatinath (Nepal) t o Kailas via Muktinath & Khochar
Lhasa t o Kailas via Gvantse Rr Shigartse . .
Kailas-Parikrama . . . .
Circumference of Manasarovar . . . .
Manasarovar-Parikrama . . . .
Circumference of Rakshas Tal . . . .
Kailas t o the Source of Inclns via Lhe la or
'I'opchhen la . . . .
Kailas t o the Source of Brahmaputra . .
Kailas to the Source of Sutlej (at Dulchu Gompa)
Kailas t o the'Source of Tag tsangpo . . . .
Taklakot t o the Source of Karnali . .
Kailas t o Manasarovar . . . .
Kailas t o Tirthapuri . . . .
Kailas to Dulchu Gompa . . . .
Kailas t o Gyanima Mandi . . . t .
Gyanima Mandi t o Gartok . . . .
Gyanima Mandi to Tirthapuri . . . .
Gyanima Mandi t o Sibchilim Mandi . . . .
Gyanima Mandi t o Taklakot . . . .
Taklakot to Tugolho l . . . .
Taklakot to Khocharnath . . . .
Sihchilim t o Nahra Mandi . . . .
Nabra t o Tuling . . . .
Tuling to Radrinath . . #I . .
Tarchhen to Serdung-chuksunl . . . .
'I'archhen to Tso Kapala . . . .
Tarchhen to Serdung-chnksum & back via Tso Kapala
Haldwani to Almora (on foot) . . . .
Halduani to Almora (by 1111s) . . . .
Almora to Piildari Glacier . . . .
Kishikesh to Jamnotri . . . .
Rishikesh to Gangotri ' . . , . .
Rishikesh to Kedarnath . . . .
Rishikesh to Radrinath - 1 . .
Rishikesh to Joshimath . . . .
Joshimath to Radrinath . . . .
Ramnagar t o Badriilath . . . .
Jamnotri t o Gaiigotri . . . .
Gaagotri t o Kedarnath . . . .
Kedarnath t o Badrinath . . . .
Mussoorie t o Jamnotri . . . .
Rishikesh t o Jamnotri. Gaiigotri. ~edai i i at h.
Badrinath. and back t o Rishikesh . .
. .
Rishikesh t o Tehri (motor road) . . . .
Tehri t o Gangotri . . . .
Rishikesh t o Chamoli (tnotor) . . . .
Chamoli t o Badrinath . . . .
Ranikhet t o Kariia-prayag . . . .
Karna-prayag t o Badrillat11 . . . .
Garur or Baijnath t o Nanda-prayag . . . .
Nanda-prayag t o Badriiiath . . . .
Gangotri t o Gauinukh . . . .
Uttarkashi t o Dodhital . . . .
Kedarnath t o Vasukital . . . .
Chanioli t o Gohna lake . . . .
Pandukeshvar t o Lokpal . . . .
Badrinath t o Satopanth . . . .
Milam t o Shandilya-kund . . . .
Milam t o Surya-ktlnd . . . .
DharchuPa t o Chiplakot . . . .
SECO~J ~) ROUTE TO HOLY KAlLAS AND
MANASAROVAR
b
I;KbNI AX. MOKA via 1)ARMA PARA-227 Miles
Almora (o) (o)
1 . 7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8 . KHRI. A (look) (100h) (see 'I'ahle I) last P . 011 this route. up along
the Dhnuli.(:aiiga.
~ i m . Nyo, hainlet of 3 houses, Death-Cave (see p. 97))
;in. Sovla, Darma-Bhot begins, sotre houses of Darma Bhotias,
9. Dar (12) (1 124) 2m., hot springs ; 3m. Boling, 5m. ; cudthing,
caves ; lm. Sela,
10. Xagaling (14) (126;) 5m. ; in the iieighbourhood of this village
the drug called Ephedra Vulgaris (soma or so~na-kalpa)
grows abundantly ; i t is nowadays used as a specific
for asthma, both in allopathic and Ayurvedic therapy;
4m. Baling, Pm. Dugtu or Dugling and Saun;
Bm. llantu,
11. Go (12) (1384) 2n1. last village,
6m. Bidang, a mandi is held here iu August, tvheii people
from Darma, Niti, and Nepal and Khampas and Dokpas
gather here ; wool, salt, and grains are bartered,
12. Dave (17) (1554) l l m. D., ascent to the pass begins,
DARMA PASS (5i ) (1 11) [18,510] last half a mile is a very steep
ascent, Indian borderland, pass is crossable from Julie
to the end of September, there are deceitful crevasses
110th on the pass and on either side of it,
1:;. hla~lgval or Mangul1 (4) (166) descent up to this place, C, ; 64
Silti, since 1930 a small mandi is held here for 10 or 15
14. Lama-chhorten (10) (175) q m . several mani-walls and chhortens,
a mandi is held here,
15. CHAKRA MANDI (12) (187) maiidi of Darmu ~hot i as (see
Table V),
16. Clhliu~nik-shala (1 H$) (2054) via Chhalam la to ~hhumik-shala
(see Table VII),
17. Kailas (Tarchhen) (212) (227) (see Tables I and 11),
TABLE X I
THIRD ROUTE TO HOLE: KAILAS AND
RJTANASAROVAR
E'KOJI ALbIORA via UNTA-DHURA PASS--210 &IILKs
Almora (0) (0) (see 'l'ablc I),,
~ ~ I I I . I)inapal~i, T:., shops, tea,
lni. Kapadkhaii, shop, inotor road up to this place, one road
goes t o the sanatorium Binsar which is Snr. from here,
2tr11. Bhaisodi-chhina, pass,
1Qm. steep descent t o Basauli, village, shop,
1. Takula (1Q) (142) 3111. P., shops, tea, 5 a mile further is U.B.,
5iin. Devaldhar Estate, last lgm. steep ascent,
44m. steep clescent to Biloirsera,
2. Bageshvar (124) (27) [3,200! 2&n. cross the bridge oil tlle Goniati
t o Bageshvar, P., T., H., D.B., S.D., bazaars (see p. 96),
3m. 1,ahur-gad, froni here one path goes t o Gori-udyar 1~1;hich
is 3m. (see p. U6),
3. Kapkot (14) (41) 111;. P., D.B., S., shops,
3$m. Bhani-gaon, froin Bageshvar up to this place the route
is along the Saraju,
Shyania-dhura (119) (52) [6,900] 72 ni. last two iriiles steep ascent,
P., shops,
gm. steep asceirt up to the pass,
2111. steep descent,
14,. very steep descent up to Kairia-Gaiiga,
2i m. further cross the rope bridge on the I<aiiia-Gauga to
its right bank,
-
4. 'l'ejainl
(7) (59) [3,280] am. to Tejarn, P., S., Ayurvedic Dis-
pensary, cross the bridge on the Jakul,
I
4m. Barnan-gaon is up the road, just opposite this place on
the other side of the river, there is a beautiful waterfall,
2qni. La, from Tejain up to this place along the river Jakul,
cross the river by bridge,
2111. steep ascent t o Girgaon, sniall T).R., l~illage is far away
from here, a
2fm. ascent upto tlie Kalamuiii pass,
Biiti. steep descent with reliefs t o Tiksen,
5. NA'l'HI (MANSIYARI) (184) (77i) 2111. steep clesceiit to Kathi,
P., D.B., the surrounding region is called Mansiyari
(at the place called Dandadhar, ' Shri Gita Satsang
Ashram ' lias been started in 1946 by Shree 108 Swami
Vidyanaiidn Saraswatiji Maharaj, for tlie propagation
'*
of tlie Gifu 1; ) l t n~~rza) ; ISliotias of Malln Johar coine
, down here in winter ; there are sulphur and sulphide
of arsenic mines in this Paraganu,
2m. descellt to Suring-ghat, from here up to Rlilain tlle road
1t111s nloilg the (:ori-Gallg:~,
11, i n tlifiicl~li, to ccods Lllc r~opt~ I,ridgc on i.110 I:.;LIII~ -(:rirlg:r, nu vcrj- 'f~:\\. l~ilgriuis i'trkt\
t h i ~ route. Toll& Jollnr bc gi n~ fihln Tejntn nnd l31101,inn of nlrtlln-Jol~nr grt down to t l l i ~
~ l ~ c e in winter. Thal i n 12m. from l1rlsr.
32111. I,ilam, the village is a little away from the road,
2'111. 2 on the other side of the river Palti-gad falls into the
Gori from a great height like a big water fall, '
l i m. Kalanl-gad, this river also falls into the Gori on its left
batik,
1 i ni . Rar-gadi,
Bn1. Poting-gad, cross by bridge,
6. Bag-udyar (12) (H9l) rH,600] am. caves, le,
2m. 'I'ibu-nahar, shed of the road jawhaday,
22m. Mapang, le, between Tibu and this place there are t wo
huge ice slides or miniature glaciers, like a drop-scene
the mountain scenery changes su?ddenly from here,
l m. Laspa-gadi, cave, village is far from the road,
Bm. Rilkot, [12,200], cross one stream and reach the village,
six houses; D., a little cultivation, &m. further are the
ruins of old Rilkot,
2am. Martoli [11,070], big village, S., temple of Nanda-Mayi,
Thakur Divan Singh, the famous guide t o Trail pass
hails from this village, birch forest nearby,
i m. very steep descent t o Lovan river, cross it,
i m. cross the Gori by bridge t o its left bank,
l m. Burfu, big village, S., D.,
29m. Bilju, S., a little beyond the village grand view of the
Nanda Devi east peak,
0 1 3
2im. cross the bridge on Khopailg -or Gonkha river, which
comes from Unta-dhura and falls into Gori a little dowll
this place,
7. Milam1 (174) (1062) [11,2:32] i m. further t o Milam, P., S., I).,
59m. Shilang-talla, le,
1 This is tho last Indian villago on thie routo, alltl tho biggest in Johar and there fire
lrbont 500 hol~son hero.
I n the month of July most of the male m e m b ~ s go to Tibetan map
kots for tradillg.
So, 9Oq& of tho cultivabb land is left bnrren.
Pendit Nain Singh find
Pandit Kr i ~hnn Singh, tho famous Himalayan explorers hail from8 this placr.
811 arrange.
ments up t o Qynnimn have t o be made from hero.
Cori-Gang& is about 250 yards from tho village. hlilnm glacier ix a t e tlistallce of 3m.
from here.
Tho snont, of the glacier is 24 foot high a,nd 16 foot broad.
I t has a. grand and
I~cautifui view from hero.
Huge blocks of ico are lying ill front of tho nnout t nd stonen
often pelted frnm the top of tho glacier by tho melting ice. 3111. up tho glncier, FI 'uated stthe
font of a mountain 11s an open grnundia tho Inkclet callod Rlmndilya-kund or Bhmg&.-klmd
which is about 450 foot long and 225 feet brond. Shepherds come hc:ro in aummer to
their xhnep. Them ix plenty uf firewood herr. Opposite thc Shandilya-lr~lnda amall gkcier
Ily name Siktlnm conln~ ;rntl moots the Milnm glacier on it,^ right ~i d c . A meh is hold hem
on Rh.mvinn Prtrnimrn, when peoplo from Milam ~ n d other villages gather to have a dip in the
holy lake, the wat.er of which is not ice-cold. Seven milox up this glncier ~i t l l ~t or l nt lt8
hf d is I I gln.cinl Iako caller1 Surya-kulid. A I J R T ~ Y of nxplorerp from Yolnnd came
in -Tllly 1939 to rlimh the Triauli praks ~i t uat ~et l n.t t,hc hrad of tile &Jilnrn glacier. Wh!le
1111 t'ho climb fwo of t hr nl omhrr~ of [.he ~)xrt,,y ppl.irhptl nn>lcr. nn :cvnln.nrllr wh'lc
t~ivn~inving i r ~ t,ho Lhirtl r, :l . mp.
l m. Shilang-malla, le, D.,
1M. Chhotpani or Shuntpani, on the right side is t he black
glacier (having been mixed up with black earth tlie
glacier looks black),
*m. Palthang, D. on the t op of a hill, lapiche,
8. Dung or Dhunga.,(9) (1 152) [13,720] 2 m. very near the river Gonkha,
three or four big caves, le, scarcity of fuel, ascent t o
the pass begins from here,
2iin. [15,010] Bomlas-malla, le, 011 the left hand side a beauti-
ful glacier,
l m. Kala-matiya, the earth is black here, probably graphite, Le,
l m. Saphed-gal or white glacier,
4-m. Unta-ka-jam, l e, foot of t he pass,
UNTA-DHURA PASS (6$) (1224) [17,950] 21n. very steep ascent,
i m. very steep descent t o Gang-pani, le, this stream flows
into Girthi,
JAYANTI PASS or Janti-dhura ( 3i ) (125;) [18,500] very steep
ascent,
Bkm. Nhaz-gam, very steep descent, l e, this stream flon~s into
Girthi, no fuel,
KUNGRI-BINGRI PASS (32) (1294) [18,300] l i m. very steep ascent,
Indian border, about 200 yards further dn+tche, Kailas
is seen from here, pass is crossable from July t o October,
9. Chhirchinl (6) (1348) 5111. steep descent with reliefs, le, caves,
i m. further cross 1& feet deep branch of Chhirchin,
3m. Sumnag or Suinnath, le,
i m. in the bed of the river, cross another l ~ranch of theriver, Zc,
2m. Tokpu, l e,
earn. Survey of India hou.nkarv line.'
l i m. Chhilim-palli, this river goes t o Sihchilim, l c,
l m. ~,at;va, le, caves a little further,
10. Thajanga (12) f1464) :jni. Ic,
211n. LC,
2$m. Chhunak or Cl l hi ~~ak~i , ( r hh~l Illeails Ivnter a11t1 j ~ ~ f i illealls
,
ljwlnllJ, t ) t ~ t > RI I OI I I , I s t , a~t . frolll 01111g rlll.ly i l l 111,' I ~ I ( I I , I ~ ~ I I ~ . 1.1.0s~ I , I I I . ~ P ~ H U R I ' S
and reach Iicrr ill i,hc r\,c,ninp; t.0 ,.nlllp ; t,l.llrr\r;isr if OIIV ?i ~, ol ~s (111 t hc \\. :I>- :11frr c.l,onsing twt,
Pa@a~n. t~h~>rr \vohlcl 11r a great diflic.lllt,y for filrl ; ant1 thc c*;unpiug pl:~cc 1 ~ ( &t ( Y- I I l.\\-o pasnrs ix
cold. Tl ~ r r r 81,r,~1lms ~npet , ~l c r c t,n for111 Clhhirrhin. t,l~t. I~rt l of \\11ic.l1 is about $111.
!road alltl full of pebbl , . ~ rind loolta like n long: litkc t , l ~ol ~pl ~ t , l l ~ I I C ~ ~ I I ~ ~ co11rsC of tjllr river it.uelf
la not vcr)- brontl. Between Chllirrhill 11.11d Hn mn n ~l ) o t , l ~ in t , l ~c Iwd t ) T t,hc river n ~ l d on t he
mountains on r i t hr r ha.&, 3f0~~ilfI. t hgnpl . i ~t , onc, z ~hn~. v ) o r r i , c.nlritcx ill crj~t.fl.llinc' form, rind
trinlllphido of rsr~enic era folllld. .Fronl Chhirrhin olio road gocs 1.0 Sil~cliilim.
ThP Survey of Indi a Oficn has set 11p lollg wnll of ~t . onr n Iitsrr ( I 1jli1.
fronl ~~~~~~~i-
h i n ~ r i paw) 3 feet brosd and 2 ft!rt,$ipll in 1938 t o show t,hr Indian 1)onndnr.v.
3 On tjhr left, ~ i d e of t,ho camping ~)lrrre, ait,llated on t,ho t,op of' 11. hill. c~rt: a lnptchr ant1
lflrc.hoka, ~vhvrc- Tihrt,n.n# n.ntl Rllot,in.s 1,ot.h offrr t,llrir oltl grins tin,[ 01~11('1. I I PI ~I R.
black) the water of this river is black and muddy, ' cross
the verandah of 2 feet deep river to its right bank,
3m. last Qm. ascent to Tl~ampa, le, spring,
&m. ascent to Zaptche, Kailas seen from here,
&m. descent,
11. Guni-yankti' (11i) (158) 3m. on plains to the river Guni-
yankti or Chhu ?uIinchung, cross the 2 to 24 feet deep river
to its right bank, Ze on both sides of the river,
dam. Darma-yankti or Chhu Minjen, cross the 2 to 3 feet
deep rapid river, Mandhata is seen from here,
12. Gyanima Mandi (14) (172) 1 l 2m. (see Table V),
13. Chhumikshala (161) (188i) (see Table VII),
14. Kailas (Tarchhen) (21f) (210) (see Table VII),
FOURTH ROUTE TO HOLY KAILAS AND
1:HOJI JOSHIhIA'l'H via C;UNI,A-NIT1 PASS-- -200 MIL:S
Joshimatha (0) (0) [fj,200] p., T: , H., n . ~ . , n., temple bazaar,
Police Chouki, dharns,
6111. Tapovan, hot springs, (from here BhaVishya Badri is
3m. away for the main road),
, .
I m. cross the bridge on the Dhauli to its right bank, Nit1-
Bhot hegirls from here,
Five or 6m. fr1.11n h ~ r r 011 (' ither sidi. of :t, river G~l ni - y: ~nkt i , HIICI ~);lrmnb~rn.nkti, thnr'
:l,rt: cllmping pnrnpets ~ n r l r:nrnping pl;lrnn ever,ywhore. Merchants ca.mp and ford th4se
r i vr r d at an!. ~)l;rre t.l~at, nnito them. So t he di.stal~cc. I,c.t\vecn Tharnpn, and $pnnimn v!rlcS
. ~ r ~ o r i l i ~ l g to t.ho plnce wllcrc one forrls these rivers.
Somn peoplo wronglv call thcserlVers
C:llna.v&nti ant1 Damnynnti. Ynnkl i menno river i n Bhotin l angr ~~. ge.
TII; Ti hr t m namrs
of these rivers are Chhn-Wnchung (small river) and Chhu-Minjon (big river).
Joshimath or Jpot i r mat h i~ one of t ho forir grent Mathas or Mo~~nstarieR eatabli@hed by
the greRt Acharpn Adi 8hankarnchar.ya. For 350 years i t remained without
abbot b'lb
in the Rumblur. Mrl n (Allehehad) of IR42, a n A r b r y a h a ~ been appointed. Here are thetemplea
of Vaaurleva and Na r ~ i n g h . Badrine,th is 1gm.frorn hare, R.iehike~h 148frn., and Raflny"
164m. There i - husaervice now- R- ~RYA tip t o Chamoli, v-hich i~ 29m. from here. That le to
qnS thn' t Ba,iltinath is a t FI. di ~t anr r , of 48m. from t he hua ~e r vi r e ~t , ~. t . i nn. From J o ~ h ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
(111 to Nit,i I ~ n w t.hr rna,d g o e ~ 1111 n l o n ~ ttho Dhn.111i-CJnng:).
T A B L E X I 1
1. Suraitota (16) (16) 6m. le, D., no village,
771. Tamak le, D.,
2m. Jurnrna, le, D., village is away from the road,
3m. Jilam, village is away from t he road,
2. Malari (18) (34) 6m. t o Malari, big village, S., D.,
5m. Barnpa, P., S., D.,
l i m. [10,317] Gamshali, D.,
3. Niti (9;) (439) 3m. last village, S., D.,
4. Guthing (81) (51i) two steep ascents and one steep descent on the
way, le,
39m. Shephuk, le,
22m. Nakula ice bridge, cross it t o its right bank,
4i m. Patal-pani, le on either side of the river,
i m. Geldung, le,
5. Khyunglung (152) (67Q) [14,703] 4am. le, from here up t o the
pass very steep ascents,
NIT1 PASS (4;) (72) [16,600] last 18111. is almost a perpendicular
ascent, Indian boundary, the pass is crossable from
June t o November, Kailas is seen from here,
2n1. on the pass, laptche,
l i m. very steep descent t o Jinclu, le,
6. Changlus (12) (84) 8gm. le,
51n. Haytha, C., le, Gunla camp is not far froill this place,
7. Nabra Mandi' (11i) (954) 68m. big inandi of the Niti
Bhotias,
58m. Gemul chhu, also called Geyul or Gyung-yul, two
- houses, a few plots of cultivation, le on either bank of
the river, cross the three feet deep river t o its right
bank,
11,
74m. Dongpu chhu, le, cross the three feet deep rapid river
to its right bank,
8. Doiigp~~ Gompau (14) (109i) $111. steep ascent to t he village, 20
houses, gompa, good culti\ration,
n. 1)ollgu chhu (6;) (115) le,
2Aq1. ?ong~i, C., no water,
1 trn. Tisum chhu, lc on either side of the river, cross the
' river to its right bank,
I Thi6 mnndi is held from July to September nnd 250 tents are pitched. Dnpa
about 6tm. from hore ; (18 a protest rcg~inst tho hppronsion of the Zongpnn of Dapa, tho
Bhoti ~s of Nitti had ~l l i f i cd tho ~ i t o of their mandi in 1R39, from Dapa to Nahm, sitl~ntod
in 8 broad vnlley which ia on the Qnrtok-Niti high rond. Three or four pnhkn houfic~ nlso
have 1wen built Imre by tho Nitti mrrchnnts. This is undrr the ji~ri~diction of nape Zo11p.
I A ' W ql ~nnt ~i t i e~ of ,jimbw aro rollo&,rd from the neighboi~rhood. Slltlri-t)rid~e i~ 3m. fi.0111
h e .
154 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
10. Sibehilim Mandil (19) (134) 2i m. mandi on the left bank of the
Sib chhu, le, cross the 3 feet deep Sib chhu to its right
bank,
7)m. Mani-thanga, mani-walls, le, several black tents of
Khyunglung, extensive pastures, one road goes to
Khyunglung,
39m. Gombachen, extensive le ; once a big mandi used to be
held here, one road goes t o Khyunglung ; between
Mani-thang and Gombachen one shall have to cross
several ramifications of the Chhu-nak chhu, in their
winding course,
11. Guni-yankti (15) (149) 44m. cross the 2 t o 2 i feet deep river to its
right bank, le, on either side of the river,
3Qm. Darma-yankti, cross the 3 feet deep swift river to its
right bank, le, on either bank of the river (see Table XI) ;
12. Gyanima Mandi (13) (162) 94m. (see Table V),
13. Chhumikshala (16B) (178)) le,
14. Kailas (Tarchhen) (213) (200) (see Table VI).
TABLE XIJI
0
FIFTH ROUTE TO HOLY KAILAS AND
MANASAROVAR
FROM JOSHIMATH via DAMJAN NIT1 PASS-I60 MILES
Joshhath (0) (0) (see Table XII),
3. Nitl (43i) (43$),
7m. very steep and almost perpendicular ,ascent t o Romlas
pass, laptche, tarchok,
4. 1)amjan (10%) (63;) 34m. steep descent, le,
5 . DAM JAN-NIT1 PASS (51) (59%) [16,200 ?] very steep ascent to the
pass, laptche, tnrcltok, Indian boaridary, pess (crossable'
from June to October, Kailas is seen from here,
5 . Hoti camp (53) (65) very steep descent, le, route from Hoti P a s
meets here,
34111. [16,350] Tonjell la, laptchc,
1 Between July and Augn~t Reven or oight Niti merchants hold n rnnndi horn.
time8 a few Johari ~ 8180 come here. Sih chhu flow8 11m-e ~JI two or throo ramifications. The
Cave-Colony of Pangbh~ in sl,out hm. down this place (me p. 108). From hrm one r od pm
to Khyunglung, s rlay'r march and Tirthepuri 2 ~ R V R ' mnrrh.
4rn. descent dowii a stream t o Sag, le,
3an. ascent,
6. Chhalampa (136) (78;) 3m. descent, le,
3m. ascent,
3m. descent t o Dakar, le,
6Qm. Tisum, le,
7. Sibchilim (152) (94i) 3;m. (see 'l'able XII),
8. Guni-yankti (15) (log&), le,
9. Gyanima Mandi (12:) (132),
10. Chhumikshala (16;) (1389) le,
11. Kailas (Tarchhen) (2 12) (1.60).
SIXTH ROUTE TO HOLY K-AILAS AND
MANARAROVAR
FROM JOSHIMATH via HOTI-NIT1 PASS-158 MILES
Joshimath (0) (o),
1-2 . . . . . . . .(see Table XII),
3. Tiinarsim (424) (429) a small hainlet one mile before reaching the
village Niti, steep ascent right up t o the pass,
3m. Kaniai, le,
4. Kalazabar (6) (484) 3n1. le,
HO'I'I-NIT1 PASS (7) (554) [16,390] Hoti, also called Chor-Hoti or
Hoti-dhura, laptche, Iiidiai~ boui~dary, pass used mostly
during rainy season, very steep descent right up t o
Rimkhim,
2$111. Banjar-inalla, le,
1
lgm. Banjar-talla, lc,
1 i m. [14:250] Riinkhim, l e,
5. Hoti camp ( 74) ,(63) 2111. up the Hoti river to Hoti camp, le, route
from Dailijaii pass meets here,
6-10 . . . . . . . . . . (see Table XI I I ) ,
11. Kallas (Tarcl-lheu) (95) (1 158).
t
SEVENTH ROUTE TO HOLY KAILAS AND
. MANASAROVAR,
FROM BADRINA'I'H via MANA SASS-238 MILES
Badrlnath (0) (0) [lo,la9],'1'., T., H., D.B., D., airfield, temple of Sri
Radri Narayana one of the four Dhamas or Great Tirlhns of
t
K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
India, Rikbikesh is 168m. from here and Kedarnath
[11,000] 101m., *
2m. Mana or Mani-bhadrapuri,
last village on this route,
the only Bhotia village on this side ; the Bhotias of Mana
are called Marchhas,
am. Balvan, cave, le,
2m. Musapani, le,
1Qm. Shakpadunga, 4 good caves, Ze,
4m. Bujkuli, 4 good caves, le,
1. Ghastoli (11 &) (114) lgm. cave, le,
3m. Budchaun, le,
$m. Khorjavkot, le,
2. Sarasvati (8&) (20) 5m. le, ascent t o t he pass begins from here,
2im. Rattakona, le,
lm. Tarai, le,
3m. Rakshas Tal, glacial lake,
&m. Devtal, glacial lake 400 yards long,
MANA PASS or Chirbitiya (84) (28h) [18,400] l i m. Indian boundary,
crossable from July t o September.
3. Poti (9) (375) le, descent up to this place,
4. Jogorav (8) (454) le,
3m. Shiphuk Maidan, le,
3m. [16,400] ascent t o Charang la, laptche,
5. Ramurav (16) (614) 10m. le, first three iniles ascent,
6. Shankara (10) (71;) l e,
7. Sattu-khana (214 ?) (93) le,
8. Thhullng Gompa' (7 ?) (100) [12,200] also called l'hhuling Math,
Thhuling, Tuling, and Totling, one mile beyond 'l'uling
2m. steep ascent [13,176], and then descent in grada-
tions t o
1 Thhu*g aornpil, classically known as Thunding, is situated on the left bank of the
river Sut l e~ a t a distance of about a mile from t he edge of t he watbr.
Thie was founded In
A.D. 1030 ant1 ia the most fitmous monastery in Western Tibet. Turks had pillaged this
lnonastery on mZ)ra than ono occasion and set fire t o i t when, mveral hundreds of v ~ l u a ~ l ~
fhakri t and Tihetan mitnriscripts more reducod t o mhes. Tho great Achnrya Deepankern
Shr~ej neno of N~l anda Univeraity fame cemo here in 1042 to preach Buddhism. He sojourned,
here for nino months and wrote many books including trtlnslations. Seyoral %her India*
prrndila anti Blitldhist pronchers had translated soveral Pnli works into Tibetan here.
rhero are abont 108 image-halls with thousnntls of imnges of Brlddhistic doities, lamas, end
deh, tryfhs of r:rrious sizes mado of earth, bronze, silver, and gold. Hero &re the volumee of
Knnj l ~r and Tanjur and soversl other printod and unprintetl books woll-arranged In big
ahelvos. The chief idol in the main image-hall is of Sakya-Thubbhn (Sakya-Muni or Buddk)
in Padr nnaa~ (lotus pnse) guilrled and seetod on a high pedestal. It is over 6 feet highsnd Is
wrongly helioved by the Hindu pilgrim^ to be t hat of Adi B~dri l rrt rnynn~; and often
sheep, and goats nre offerotl to brim lamps with their ghoe, but theso animals are sold anal'
every throe years nnd the money distributed amongfit the monks. I n one of the i r n a ~ e - ~ ~ l l ~
there ia an eight-foot image of Chamba or Maitrega, t ha coming Buddha. A dnkahi navph
ahankhn (right handed onnch), cr grain of barley aa big ns a, ewall's egg, and a few otherthlnga
are t h ~ specialitie~ of t . hi ~ monastery, which are kept l l nd~r lock ant1 eeal hy the J,rhranE
TABLG X V I 159
9. Mangang (11) (1 13) village, cultivation, a very interesting gompa,
affiliated t o Depung Vihara, cross the 4 feet deep, very
furious, and broad Mangang tsangpo t o its right bank,
10. DAPA or DABA (14) (127) [14,000] village, cultivation.
Zong,
gompa with one lama and 15 dabas, mandi of this place
was shifted t o Nabra in 1929 ; Gyanima Mandi, Nabra
Xandi, and Missar Tasain are under the jurisdiction of
Dapa Zong,
11. NABRA MANDI ( 6 i ) (1334) (see 'I'able XII),
12-17.
18. Kailas (?'archhen ) (1044) (238).
1'ABLE XVI
EIGHTH ROUTE TO HOLY KATLAS AND
MANASAROVAR
FROM MUKHU\:A (GONGOTRI) via JELUKHAGA PASS-243 MILES
Mukhuva (Gangotri) (0) (0) village of the Pa ~d a s of Gangotri,
Rikhikesh is l45m. via Narendranagar and Tehri ;
Mussoorie is 110in. and Gangotri is 13m.,
4111. Jaqgla, E'., shop,
lm. Kopang, le, camping place of Harsil Jads or Bhotias,
$m. From here one road splits t o Gongotril which is 7im. ;
(confluence of Jahnavi and Rhagirathi is i nl . down this
place) ; froin
here up to Jelukhaga pass the road goes
&re shown only by giving good presents. T b monastery lias got 150 yds. square compoulld
wall.
There ar e t wo l amas and 70 dabas i n t hi s monastery and i t is a branch of t he Seru
Qompa.
Tho abbot of tho rnonl~story collies from Sera for a poriod of t hree years.
Before
tho iMatia pass is blocked up wit11 snow, t ho abbot sends overy year some offerings t mo Radri-
nath tcinplo nnd i n roturn guts solno praaad from t he piijnri or Haval of Badri nr~t h. It is
not known how and wh n t hi s custoin has coin0 i nt o vogue. There ar e sevornl chhorleas
in the ~loighbourllood of 410 monastery raminding one of tho past glory.
011 tho ~out hur n sitlu of tlio gompa t hero aro about 15 I~ouses of t he villago aud plt?nty of
cultivation, ext,onding for 8 couple of miles u p t o tho bank of t he Sutloj. Thhuling is a snflj-
ciontly warm place nnd R H 8ti(:11 some trees grow nenr t ho sliorev of t ho rivcr 1111 bo u. hcight of
1% foot. Thnro is n gardoll of pcc!pal trees grown by t ho goillpa in t he valley of a small brook
hearby. Duiqing t he mont hs of July end August a small mandi is held hero by a few Khnmpus
~omi ng from Gnngc~t~ri si dr~ and a few Bliotias conling from Niti. J i mbu grows in obundanco
in the noiglibq~~rliooci. Eq l l t nliles down tho rivcr si t r ~nt cd on t he left bank of t,he Sutlej
I8 Chhabrang Zong, which was once s flollrisliing pri i i ci pal i t , ~ with good c~i l t i vat i on.
21p- up Thhuling there is a bridge on t ho Sutloj. From hore one road goo8 t o Gartok and onet o
Tlrthopllri wi t h o ~ ~ t touching Dape n.nd Sibchilim, one t o Simla, one t o Kullll, and one t o
D a p ~ ant1 Gynnima. 0
'l'hore is a t empl e of QRngaji and Hhagirntl~aShilu nt Cangot r i [IO, ~SOl. Gaumukh [?33701
actunl and glacial s o u ~c o of t he Ganges, is a.t R, distmnce of 13m. beyond GnngOtrl. The
Jnouh of t ho Oaumukh g l a ~i e r is conceived, by t he Hindus, ns t ho mout h of a cow, t he front
tho glacier 8s tho face, nnd t wo of tlio prominent now pon.ks of Satopn,~lt,h [23,240] on
t'ho llorth d thoglacior RR tho horns, hence t ho namo Gall-niukh ( Cow- n~out h) t o tllo source of
Ganges. Al , ol ~t 4m, up t.hr gltwier, ~i t u n t e d on t he left. bnnk t.here nrs some hot springs
k A I 1 , A S - MA N A S A H O V A K
up along the River Jahnavi or Jad Gangs ; a little up
the majestic Jahnavi gorge, there is an iron ,rope, the
remnant of a suspension bridge, hanging at a height of
a thousand feet above the level of the river,
dinl. Dang, le, padavit trees from here,
1. Lamathang (13i) (134) 2im. le,
i m. first laptche,
1Qm. Kadoli,
2Qm. le,
Nilang ( 74) (21) [11,181] 5111. cross the Rishi Canga to the village
Nilang, last village on the route, Jads or Bhotias of
Gangotri, plenty of cultivation, cold place,
1 Am. Mani-ringuva, le,
3im. Magru, le,
$m. confluence of Jahnavi and Muling (one path goes t o
Badrinath up the Muling river),
f m. Nagatoru, le,
Do-sundu or Du-sundu (ah) (296) 2:m. confluence of the Jahnavi
and Jad Ganga, le, (sundzb means confluence, 2m. up
the coduence situated on the Jad Ganga is the village
Jadhung) 1
dktn. Hilding, le,
lgm. Sunama or Sonam, le, v C
l i m. Chhamrevasa, le, laptche, tavchok, rt~ani-wall,
3m. Changma-garia, le,
i m. Yangra, C.,
S. Tipani (11i) (402) 2m. confluence of three rivers, l e,
1: m. Guggul-suildu, Le,
lm. [12,984] Puling-sundu, be, extensive maida~c,
lam. Du-sundu, le,
l m. Tingtya, or Tingta, le, ascent to the pass hegins,
lam. Kaidvas, le,
4. Mandi (94) (50) 2i m. Mandi or Khage-ka-niche '(foot of the pass))
JELUKHAGA PASS (34) (53k) [17,490] 3f m. (?) very steep ascent to
Jelukhaga pass called Tsagchhok la by Tibetans, Indian
l)ouildary, pass crossable from the middle,. of 0 June t or
the middle of October, from here up to the river it
is a very steep and falling descent,
Im. Pangde, t e ,
end
emctll hot wetor lekelet, formed "ut of tho I ~ot water fc& the springs.
Both the
Yatop*nth end Ke d ~ r poeks were scaled from Qeumukh side and the ahortcut to ~ d r l n ~ ~ ~
via Arwa valley end Gheetoli wns ~ l s o negotieted. Tho acenory of Qanrnnkh, surrounded
bp hoautiful enow peeks on nll thmo sidea is simply elipnrb. The length of tho main glacier
~ ) f Qaumlikh ie alm~it I5m. ant1 of the Chrtornngi, +,ho .sllh-glnci~r 011 to its north
:hhq~~t. lorn.
T A B L E X V I I 15'3
2im. Pilpila, foot of the pass on the Tibetan side,
5. River Op (4i) (57;) l m. cross the 2 i feet deep Op to its right
bank, (i m. down this place is a bridge on the river),
4m. Dak, l e,
h. Phula la camp, le,
l i m. Phula la, laptche, tnrchok,
@
2am. Guru-ka-pani, l e,
Zm. Jara, le,
6. Puling Mandil ( 16i ) (732) :3$n1. last l i m. steep descent, l e,
l i m. a river, cross the 2 feet deep river t o is right bank, l e,
4Qrn. Babra, le,
7. Sharvarao (9i) (83) 3;m. cross the 2 feet deep river to its right
bank, le on either side of the river ; i t is also called Sha-
brak ; from here one road goes to Mana pass and one
direct to Mangnang without going to Thhuling ; from
here Dupang is 10m. and Nangnang is 10m. further,
1Qm. steep ascent,
$m. steep descent,
&m. steep ascent,
52m. on the Kancheii-thanga, lal5tche, iarclzok,
3n1. steep descent through beautiful erosion terraces and
spires,
l*m. acrq3s the dry bed of a stream to 'I'husi la, le, Mana-
Chhabrang road crosses here (Chhabrang Zong is about
3m. south of this place),
1Qm. Barkhu, 16 caves, Tibetans live here in minter,
8. Thuling (22) (105) 9m. (see Table XV).
9-17
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1 8. Kailas (Tarchhen) (1 38) (243) !'
0
'I'ABLE XVII
0
NINTH ROUTE TO HOLY KAlI,AS ANT)
MANASAROVARl
Simla (0) (6) [7,043] Viceregal Headquarters during sunimer, City,
Hill station, Simla t o Poo i t is P. \1'. D.
road and is
called Hindustan-Tibet Road,
' Thorn .%re tliren hn11.q"~ and ~ovoral wa l l ~ d enclos~tros Iinl.o. .A m ~ n d i ia held hcre
from tho middlo of July t o tho end gf A ~ I ~ u R ~ , , s ho n lilercbnntu from Ni l mg and Hemyur
Ra~hahr Rt~t, n comn 11f.m wit,h I~arln" and phnpnr-fln~tr t,o ho I,nrtc-rrrl ni t h Tihetan *nIf;,
wool, and 11orax.
1. Phagoo (12) (12) Rest House,
2. Matiana (17) (29) R.,
t
3. Narkanda (11) (40) R. ,
4. Thanadhar (1 1) (51) R., sarai, Rampur, Bashahr State, along
t he left bank of t he Sutlej,
5. Nerth (11) (62) St at e sarai,
6. Rampur (9) (71) [3,063] town on the left bank of the Sutlej,
7. Gaura (7) (78) R. ,
8. Sarhari or Sarahan (13) (91) R., from here up t o Chini excellent
scenery on both sides of t he Sut l ej ,
9. Tara~l da (14) (105) R.,
10. Nichar (10) (115) [7,900] Forest Headquarters, right bank of
the Sutlej,
11. Urili (13) (128) P. W. D. K.,
12. Chini (16) (143) state Bu~igalows and Tahsil, from Chini to Kanam
good scenery,
Yangi (5) (148) P. W. D. R. ,
13. Jangi (10) (158) P. W. D. R. ,
14. Kanam (14) (172) P. W. D. R.,
Chaisoo (10) (182) P. W. D. R., .
15. POO (6) (188) Town, last Post Clffice, all provisioris are to be take11
from here for further journey, P. W. D. road ends, after
3m. cross the Sutlej by bridge t o the left bank,
,
16. Mamgia (10) (198) village, monastery, ascent t o the pass begins
from here,
SHIPKI PASS (4) (202) [15,400] Indian boundary, pass is crossable
from May t o November,
17. Shipki camp (8) (210) [10,600] l c,
18. Kuke (5) (215) village, n
19. Tiag (15) (230) village, cross the Sutlej bridge t o the right bank) a
20. Miyang (12) (242) village,
21. ~ o k t of Shiring la (8) (250) l r , very cold, ascent t o pass begi1'~-
Shiring la [ I 6,400],
22. Nooh (15) (265) village,
23. Hulle (12) (277) le,
21. Khini-phuk (13) (290) village (Lm. fllrther one routea splits t(p
the right t o Thhuling),
26. SHAN(:TSI ZONC.: (16) (305) [13,7AO] Cbhahrang Zong's sulnnler
Headquarters,
26. Shang (6) (31 1) village,
27. Debring (14) (325) Ir, very cold,
Loache la [lS,AIO],
28. Daglag (14) (339) l e ; ,4yilaptcha, "
~ o ~ l g c h h u n ~ la [17,400],
97. Thugholho Gompa, the Eighth Monastery of Manasarovar, the
Headquarters of the Author in Manaslt Khanda [ Seep. 133
98. ~ a J e ~ Shoomi" on the H d y Men-
99. ' hen Hadub' en the Eoly Lake
102. The Sournee of tbe Four Great Rivers, aa Desmibed in Tibetan
Soripturns (speoitblly designed).
Oil-puintifig by Earl 1. H. Brcweter, Almora [SM p. 14
104. Unlamred Ioe on Rakeha
Tal, M seen from th
Island Lsohsto toweds
Top-
f h p p . 99 & 30
TABI , E: X V I I I . 161
29. Jingjuu (12) (351) le,
30. Gartokl (9) (360) [16,,100], summer capital of Western Tibet,
31. N O ~ Y U TASAM (6) (366) 3 houses, first Tasam on Gartok-
Lhasa caravan route,
8m. Dokyu, le,
5m., Par chhu le, 011 either bank of the river, two feet deep,
3m., Langpoche chhu le, on either bank of the river, 3 feet deep,
32. Clhhopta (21) (387) 5ni. le, ascent t o Chargot la begins,
2m., Chargot la [16,400] ln$tche,
Bni., Ningri, C.,
33. MISSAR TASAM (18) (405) [14,300] 14m. secoild Tasaiu 011 tlle way
t o Lhasa, 3 houses,
34. Tirthapuri (4) (409) gompa (see p. 103 aild Table VI),
35. Chukta chhu (15) (424) le,
36. Kailas (Tarchhen) (14) (438).
TABLE XVIII
'I'ENTH 'ROUTE TO HOLY KAIIAAS AND
MANASAROVAR
FROM SIMLA via THHULING-473 MILES,
Simla (0) (0) (see Table XVII).
1-23, . . . . . . . . . . . . .
84. Khiiii-phuk (200) (290) \.illage, 2m. further leave Gartok Kor~te
t o the left,
25. Tibu (20) (310) le,
20. Niang (9) (319) le ; Shangsi, le,
27. Thhuling (16) (335) (see Tables XV and XI I ) ,
28-36
J
..............
37. Kailas (Tarchhe~i) (138) (473).
0
TABLE XIX
J1: I ,EVENTH ROUTE TO HOLY KAILAS AN1)
MANASAROVAR
FROM SRINAGAR (KASHMIR) via LADAKH AND
0 GARTOR-598 MILFS
Srinagar (0) (0) [5,260] Summer Capital of Jammu and Kashmir
1 'rho two (:nrponns or Vicoroye of Western Tibet (Urko-kong and Urko-yok) live hero
i l l summnr nnd go t o Car gun~a in winter months.
Here are the two buildings of the two
Vicomys, 8 honses, n donMang, a monastery, and eome black tents. A big home-race fair
rallod Chhongdu i~ hold here on B&drcp& Pami ma, when t he representativee of 011 the
follr Zonga (Govornora) of Wo~t er n Tibot assemble. The fair last^ for 4 or 5 daye.
A small
m!lndi is Iield by tho Bhotins, rnost?y of Joher nbd Niti, from t he mi ddo of Augu~t t o th(*
nuddle of Sept., though a few morrl~nnto go there eatlier.
It in also t he Headquarters ol'
Indian Tmdo Agent, \Vest,on Tibet, i~ s~rrnmer. R~idrrk Xong in n F t 1ROm. from liere,
2 1
KA I L A S - MA N A S A R OV A R
State, the Paradise on Earth, P., T., College, House-
boats, Banks, Hospitals, Clubs, Aerodrome, Foq, gardens,
health-resorts, etc.,
1. Gandarbal (13) (13) P., T., R., health resort.
2. Kangan (11) (24) [5,795], P.R., Passports checked,
3. Gund (13) (37) [6,500] P.,
4. Sonmarg (14h) (519) [8,750], P., 'J?., R., health resort,
5. Raltal (9) (60i) [9,450] no village, R., (Amarnath cave is 121~.
from here),
2021 &A (2;) (63) [11,578] Ladakh Province begins,
Machoi (6) (69) T., R., no village,
6. Matayan (7) (76) R.,
7. Drass (129) (88i) [10,636] P., T., R., sarai, Buddhistic imageson
the road-side,
9. Sam3a-kharbu (22;) (111) R.,
9. Kargil (161) (127;) [8,790], P., T., H., R., 'l'ahsil, etc.,
lo. M~ l b2 k (22;) (149g) [10,350] R., first gompa on the way,
Nammik Top (6) (1552) [13,000] about l i m. steep ascent to pass;
l i m. steep descent from the pass,
11. Bodh-kharbu (89) (1649) R., sarai,
Fotu la (10) (1744) [13,446] lm. steep ascent to the pass ; Im.
steep descent from the pass,
12. Lamyuru (5) (1799) [11,400] one of the biggest, monasteries in
Ladakh,
Khalsi (101) (189k) P., T., (from here for iiearly 270m. the route
goes up along the Indus, leaving the river here and there),
13. Nurla (88) (198) R.,
14. Saspul (142) (2122) P., R.; 7i m. Bazgo, gompa,
15. Nyimoo (1 1i) (2249)4m. gomp8, R.; 13im. Pitak, gompa,
16. Leh (Ladakh) (172) (212) [11,503]1m. P., T., R., gompa, Wazir-I-*
Wa7arat, Kashmir Joint Commissioner, Indian Joint Corn-
missioner, Big mandi, trade centre of Yarkand, ~ashgarh,
Tibet, and India ; last Post Office, take provisions for
further journey, palace of old Raja of Stok of bdakh9
17. Chushot (12) (254) village,
,
Hemmis garden (11) (265) Hemmis Gompa,' the bipgesk alld the
most famous monastery in I,adakh, is Im. up the road!
[Iemaiq or Himi i~ one of t he oldest Buddhiet mmasteries.
Jesus Chrint apeat aomO
of hi9 ' u.l1Kn7wn vearq' her.?, stodyinq Buddhism. The author waa informed by one
the
ol i m l'cq of t b m nnqtqrv t41t one R ~Rqian traveller by name %twitch visitedthI9 monee.
t 3 r ~ t ,
~ R L V tlle Nzmt hzt or t'le biqqraphy of Jeaua.
It wae writton in that book
Je3 17 had aom 7 bou t-hold q~~a r r e l with hia parents and ran away from his home find came
t? g y l - k z r (In lia . tie had sojournsd a t Chlrqot-ri (Qriihrakute or Rej~prihe). vara?'
( 8 ~ r n ~ t h ) ~ r a n d at wverel other plnree in In lie for slms and had lefirnt Pali end 8tlldlod
B.ldd'listlc scriptgrda and had ombraced B,lddhisrn in the later days of his stfiy here. Jeau9
letor on returned t o hie native lend after eeveral yeere end started new religion
TABLE XIX 163
18. Marchalang (2) (267) village ; 6m. Ugu bridge,
19. Upshi (10) (277) 5m. village ; 7m. Miroo village,
20. Gya '(17) (294) [13,500] 10m. village ; 6m. Shagrot, le, ascent
up t o the pass,
TAGLANG LA(12)(306) [17,600]7m, last 3m. very steepascent,laptche,
21. Debring (4) (310) [15,780] verysteepdescent,le .12m. Pongonagu, le,
22. Thugje (15) (325) 3m. le, gompa and some houses in caves;
Pologonka la [16,400 ?I,
23. Puga (16) (341) [14,300] hot springs, sulphur deposits, custom house,
24. Langsham (18) (359) custom shed, (on the other side of the river
are the two big villages of Nyima and Moth ; the bed of
the Indus is i m. broad here),
26. 1)ungt.i (18) (377) Ze,
26. Niguche (13) (390) le,
27. Phugche (14) (404) le,
28. Lagankhel (12) (416) le ; 7&m. Tetor-yongma, le ; l i m. Tetor-
kongrna, le,
29. DEMCHHOK (12) (428) 3x11. also called Demchhog, village, a few
barley fields, Kashmir-Tibet boundary, hot springs up
the village ; 7m. Tama-kolak, a little cultivation,
30. TASHIGONG (1 9) (447) [13,900] 12rn. village with 25 houses, the
goillpa is situated on a lnound in the middle of the Iiidus
3 vallgy, originally i t belonged t o Ladakh, but i t was
later given t o Sera Gompa and in return Kash~nir
Government had obtained certain rights in Missar,
Confluence (4) (461) confluence of the Indus and Gartong chhu,
from here five days' march up along the Gartong
chhu,
31. 1,angmar (12) (463) village, a ielv plots of cultivation, lm. further
are the extensive Borax fields, situated on the right
bank of the Gartong chhu,
32. Gargunsa (18) (481) [14,065] Winter Headquarters of the Vice-
roys oi Western Tibet, gornpa, a little cultivatioi~,
several black tents,
33. Kaniru (24) (606) village, a little cultivatioii, liot springs up the
@ 9 village situated in s valley,
34. Gartok (16) (620) (see Table XVII),
35-39 . . . . " . . . . . . . .
40. Kailas (Tarchhen ) (78) (598).
inoorporatiilg bho principloabf ~addl i i s m in it. 80 it is thetmnny of tho sayings nnd teaching6
of Je8us~hrist,including tho 'Sermon on theMountl, appear to be verbatiin translations ofthe
teachings of Buddhisin nnd Hinduism.
Tho lama further infornled that 110 had rocciwd
translntion of the nbovo mentioned ~Namthar which wae in Ro m~ n rliaractors but he could
not toll whethor tlle language wes Ruesian or English. Later, whcn eomo whitc travellor
vinited thin mol~astorv, h~ took %any thni, I)oolr, by paging R good prosent to tho monk.
TWELFTH ROUTE TO HOLY KAIIlAS ANI)
MANASAROVAR
I:RO&I I,HASA via GYAN'I'SE AND SHIGXKTSE-800 ? MlLES
Lhasa [1%,8W].
1. Nethang.
8. Chhushul.
3. Kamba-pachik.
4. Peteo. h
5 . Nak-karchhe Zoiig.
t i . Ralung [14,700].
7. Kopshe.
8. Gyantse [13,1%0].
I). 'I'okri.
10. Panang Zong.
1 1. Shigartse .
(Tashi Lhuiil~o)
[12,850].
12. Nathang Goniya.
13. KangchheilC:omya.
14. Shipkiding.
15. Tashigong.
16. Pungchhok-lilig.
17. Chakdhong.
18. IvIohri.
10. Sang-ling.
20. Ngavring.
21. Kalung.
28. Konclt~tl.
23. Korgep.
21. Sang-sang.
Sheru.
Kheto-ruug. I
Kheto.
Kuchcl~.
Kapka.
Samku.
1 Jksht~ .
Saka Zong,
T,alung.
Nyukku.
Bank of a river.
Ldchaug .
'L'amsakrallg .
'CRADUM.
1,ung-phann:~.
P *
Iootoo. I I
TUKSUM.
Ngakchaksu~lg.
TAMSANG,
Sundo.
1,110lu11g.
Tak-karpo.
Thokcher 1.
Ngalukro. .
PARKHA.
Kailas (Tarchhcn).
'I'AKCHHEN TO THE HOUlW,l5 0 11' 'PHN Ihil>US
via LHE LA AND BACK via TOPCHHEN 1,A---QI ~ f I , l i S
Tarchhen (0) (0) Kailas-parilrragrzn hegitls here (see Table 11).
5m. Nyanri Gompa,
T A B L E X S I 166
42111. L)ui~gluiig cbbu, up this valley .one road goes i o the source
of the lndus,
1)ira-phuA Goillpa' (12%) (124) !2&1i. secoiid nloiiastery of Kailas,
inost imposing view of Mount Kailas, leave the $ari-
klral~za-route to the right and proceed iiorthwarcls up t l ~c
Zha chhu.
:l$iii. Se-lungma, le,
2ini. on the left halid side is chhu-lungma, l e,
1~111. Ke-lungma, l e, froill here steep asceiit begins.
1. L)o-lulign~a~ (Ti) (194) i ni . also called Do-lungva, le, very cold,
lrolii here very steep asceiit over scree up t o the pass,
I,H1$ ],A (3;) (23) also called J,aptche-chipa la, laptclze, cairns,
6ini. steep desceiit t o Sharshumi, le,
Cim. descent along the streail1 corniilg fro111 Lhe La to its
coiduence witli Luilgdnep chhu (opposite this place
Nyiina-lung chhu falls into the Lungdhep on its right
b a d ) ,
2. I,ungdliel! camp (13;) (364) 2&m. along the left bank of tlie Lung-
dhep chhu to 14uilgdhep caml), le 011 either bal k of the
river, black tents, (about lm. do\vn this place, situated
o ~ i the right bank of the river, is the hill 1,uiigdhey-
ligingri a t tlie foot of which the river broadens illto
a
lak: called 1,mlgdhep-iigingri tso), cross the 2 to 3 feet
1
deep river t o its right b a d ,
7$111. over ups and downs t o Ruiigiliagenl canip,' le, black
tents, cross the streall1 t o its right bank,
ini. very steep ascerit t o the top of Senge-cliava, lnfilchc,
%in. very steep desceiit t o the Rokhas chhu, cross the 2 feet
deep river to its left bank,
, 3. Senge Khambab4 (9;) (46) [1G,956] iiearly 8111. to Seiige
' 'l'horo arc Lhrau ' ltor~tes from 1)ira-phnli to go t o tho Sengo-Khombab : ( I ) up tha
I)ungluny cljhi~ via DunpJung la, (2) 11p t he Lha chhu via Tsetlli and Tsethi-lachon la, and
(3) up tho Lhn rhbu via T,l~a I n, which is tho ~h ~r l , e s b of tho thrco routes ; thc scconrl route 1s
bad and a long orlo ; and tho fir81 onc is t he Iongost of thc threo. Forreturningto Ter chho~~
from Sengu Khnrnbab t he ronto by t he Topchhen la is t he nearest. Tibetan pilgrims t o tho
Benge Khombab follow tho route gircn in this tablc becautioinsodoing they can also complctc~
the circuit of tho Holy IZnilns by avoiding tho steop ascont and descent of Dolma la.
'
Lung, 1vA1gtnb: lungba, and lungan. all mcan a. valley.
Tho uppor coarse of the river is cnlled Munjail chhu and tllu l oar r course ~~~~~~~~~~~m
('bhll till i t joijlv thc Scngc or the Intlll~. Ue~i des tho loeltl pcoplo, shopherds from the eaeterll
" n d ~lorth-clnstonl parts of L,hnsa usPe(~ially Amdo, como hero with hundreds of yak8 and thou-
and0 of sheep and goats t o graze their cattle and a t the same time do a number of rounds
of Kailas and AIenm ; a~ ouch they stay in t,he Scngc area for four or five years continuously
and than return t o thcir holile~. There nrr ext ena; ~e pasture lands hcre and tho dairy pro-
'lucts of this rogion are con:idered t hr heat, in the wljolr of Tihrt,. Oiie may st art good dairy
f e r m~ here with gront advantage.
4 Here are four big fresh nat cr aprings and sevcrul s~nal l ones welling 11p out of
Rrounrl.
Nearby is a qrladrnng~~lar mnni-wall with several v~ani-slabs. There are some
8tono8 over 14 foot high, onch containing a singlo letter of tho mani-mantra. On another
gtonp tho nl i ~ol of life ( j ~ ~ v n n n rlrnkra contnining tho 1ctter.s of tho wlani-mnntra) i~ inscribed.
Khambab or the Source of the Indus, Ze, black tents in
the surroundings,
Bm. back to Rungmagem camp, le,
*
3m. steep ascent,
l i m. very steep ascent to Lungdhep-ngingri, le,
2m. Lungdhep chhu, le (from here up along the Lungdhep
chhu), it is all marshy bog-land up to the foot of Top-
chhen la,
44m. Nyimalung chhu, cross it to its left bank (this falls illto
the Lengdhep, about 250 yards down below, almost
opposite the Lhe la chhu),
4m. further up cross the 1 i to 2 feet Lungdhep to its left
bank,
l fm. further, one big stream falls into Lungdhep on its right
bank,
4. Foot of Topchhen la (20) (66) 2m. further up, camp at the foot
of the pass, le, very cold,
TOPCHHEN LA1 (6) (71) 5m. very steep ascent through huge
boulders to Topchhen la, about 200 yards on the pass,
the whole pass was under snow whenthe author crossed it,
6im. very steep descent over huge boulders,
Gm. descent down the Topchhen valley, Kailas is seen from
here, la@tche, cairns, 6 0
i m. further down is the confluence of Topchheil chhu and
Lham-chhukhir chhu, there are big le everywhere alollg
the Topchhen valley, cross the 3 feet deep ham-chhukir
to its right bank a little up the confluence and then proteed,
Zuthul-phuk Gompa (13g) (84$) 1 ; ~ . mild descent to the gomPa
(see Table 11),
6. Tarehhen (61) (91).
The temperature of the combined waters of t he springs Was 48.5OF. + The water coming out
of the springe forms into weedy ponds and flows out into the Bokher ohhu as a emall brook
bm. down below. Just by the side of the springs, situated on the edge of e hugo slab of whlto
rock are threo pillar-like cairns or lhu-doorlha-to(g~ds'-~tones), laplch~s, and somo man*-slebs.
On one of theso there are some coloured rags of cloth-larch&, offered by somo Tlheten ~ 1 1 .
grlms. Tho rugged hill on the north of the spring is called Songo-yuro, end to tho sotrth sltuebd *
on the left bauk of the Bokhar chhu in Senge-chava, croseirlg which one get0 down $0 Rung-
magom oamp. To the north-east of the Benge Khambeb is the Lama Is [17,8001. Tho
author visited t he Source of the Indus on July 4, 1937, and stayed in the sutioundlngw for
Lhree days. Nenge is also pronounced es Sengi or Singi, and Khamhab is pronounced as libarn-
bn or Kabrtb in Central and Emtern Tibet.
1 Topchhon la is the water-shed hetweon the Longdhop chhu (tho highost of tho head-
8t~-carna of Sengo in this area) and the ~ o ~ c $ h e n chhu (which meets &he ham-chhukhir chhu
a little Up Zuthul-phuk Qompa t o form Zhong chhu). Theno two rivere aro juat on cithrr
of the Topchhen la but Dr. Sven Hedin placed them nearly 20m. apart as the crow flieu'
This is due to tho fact t hat ho did rlot ncgotiat,~ this pass., Anyway, this is given here as @
pieae of information for the guidance of future explorers. Tho nuthor is the f i r ~t nOn.
Tilmtan who had orouaed the Lho In. nnd thc Topchhrn I n.
TABLE XXI T
TABLE S XI I
t
TARCHHEN TO THE SOURCES OF THE
BRAHMAPUTRA AND THE TAG
AND BACK 'I'O TAKLAKOT via GIJRLA LA-198 MILES
Tarchhen (0) (0) (see Table 11),
3m. Zhong chhu, le (for details up t o Seralung see Table 111),
5m. Philung-kongma chhu,
6im. Gyuma chhu,
1. Kuglung (17) (17) 2;m. Kuglung, le,
8Qm. Palchen chhu,
lam. Palchung chhu,
2. Seralung Gompa (16) (33) 8i m. sixth nloilastery of the Holy
Manas,
3hm. ascent and descent t o Harkong, black tents, l e,
4m. Chhomokur, black tents, le,
3. Namarding (15) (48) 7Qm. cross t he Namarding chhu, Manas is
seen from here,
3m. up the valley,
l i m. ordinary ascent,
l i m. very steep ascent t o Changsha la,
1t.m. vzry steep d?scent, le,
CHHUMIK-TH UNGTOI,' (7 h) (55 h) 1 Qnl. through big boulders and
stoiles t o the sacred spring Chhumik-thungtol, named
Chikko in Sven Hedin's mxps, from here up t o
Tagranlochlie path goes along the Tag,
LANGCHEN KHAMBAB (g) '(5Gi) spring gushing out of black
boulders and flowing into the Tag t hat is nearby ; this
is also a sacred spring and is mzrked by several cairns
and a big laptche, in which is fixed a sm..ll pale bedecked
with pieces of coloured rags like a scare-cron-.
1 Chhn m?ang wn,ter, mik: moans cyo, Ih?r?tg menus uoc. nnd to1 moan8 slavntion or
,iViraann, i.c?.,bwhoqc?e;or eve 1 sr,es this ~pr i ng ohtrlins ~i~lvil,t.ion, or who~oover (100.9 thiu eye-like
epring oht ~. i l l r 8 LIL ~. . i ,(I. Ttle spring C, ~ h ~ ~ t n i k . t l ~ ~ ~ n g t o l is situn.t.ed in a narrow volloy of t he
Tas witah hixh volc.~rlir, m ,rlnt ~i.13 011 ~i t l i or sido of tho river. I t is srirrounded by a big qua-
dr ~n: ~l . br ~nzqi - w ~ l l 18 y,is. loll? and LO yds. br,,a I, and tho f l ~ g ~ n'nd festoons on i t aro over-
hanqinq tho ~pr i ng, which is 3-4 feut cioop and 3 feet in diameter. Through t hecryst al clear
charmill3 turqu,iw-blue wcttor could be clearly seen tho blue and rod beads, four infnrior
turquoises, t wo b~~ngl ns, some ~hel l e and eome other et t y articles thrown in as offering8
b devout pilgrims. The water i n t he a ring Bows dut $om t he bottom in t he form of a mal l
brook, into t he Taq on i t s loft hank n k w yard8 below. Svan Hedin has wrongly namod i t
Chakko. I t is writton in Kangri KarcRhak t hat Qangn or Langchen Khsmbab t ake ite rise
from Kailas b l ~ t i t appears hero ; and thon ra-appears nt Dulchu Qompa. The names of t ho
three V O I O R I ~ ~ O mountains betwedn which t he spring is situated are Chenrosig (white),
Chhngnadorjo (bl ~i e), and Jambynng (yellow). Then, aro several cairns ~ o t up by pilgrim8 all
round and i n t he noighbourhood of t he e pr i n~.
168 GAI L AS - MA N A S A R O V A l i
2&n. further there are white sands for 2x11. 011 either ballk and
in the bed of t he river,
4. Tag-ramochhe (22) (59) m . Tagramochhe, big camps, l r ,
black tents (from here one path goes up along Tag
tsangpo for about 10m. t o t he Kanglung Kangri glaciers,
the Source of the Tag Tsangpo),
1111. on marshes t o Tag-ramochhe chhu,
lni. steep ascent t o Tak-karhu la, le, laptche;
5:ln. proceed on beds of sharp gravel, stones, and big boulders,
over ups ancl downs t o Chamar, le, a hill on the left side
of the road, there &re some lnptche and tarchoks and
rnnni-stones on the top of the hill ; Kanglung glaciers
are just opposite this hill and present a beautiful view;
there are several small lakelets between Tak-karhu la
and Chamar,
TAG J,A (8) (67) [17,382] $m. laptche, tarchok, cairns,
:l$~i. Tamlung tso, extensive camps on the shores of the
lake, there are also several other small lakelets connect-
ed with one another,
2.f111. along the banks of the lake on marshes, (a stream starts
from this lake and flows into the Angsi chhu),
2i m. further on one path goes t o Kongyu tso, Bongba, etc.,
2i m. over gentle up towards the south (Kongyu tso is ,seen
from here on the north),
5. Angsi chhu (13) (80) 2$m. clescent, steep clescent, very steal,
descent, ancl clescent t o Angsi chhu, le on either side of
the river, cross the 3 feet deep river t o its right h d j
the river is broadened into lakelets at several plflces~
the valley is hroacl and grand, good pastures,
i m. Angsi valley,
1 fm, mild ancl steep ascent,
2j m. very gentle up on a plateau t o S11it)la-ri~~g~no 1% the
pass is very narrow like a lane, ahout 4 feet broad he-
tween two steep beautiful mouatai~ls rill either side!
lnfitche, very near the pass on the right lland side of thc
roatl a deep lake, (ahout i m. before r'eacl~ir~g" the 1)as9
there is another lake on the left side of the roatl), several
lierds of Ron and cho are seen or1 the plateau,
fm. steep descent down a narrow gauge t o a heautif~ll lake
situated on the left side of the road,
Rlm. ups and downs on 1)eds of stones (rn;cllway is a t)eautiflll
semi-circt~lar lake \\..it11 all island ill the rnidtlle), some
more lakelets, cross ;I st re at^^,
!m. ascent,
Chema-yungdung chhu (92) (89f) i m. very steep descent to Chema-
yungdu chhu, the whole bed of the river on the right
bank is full of sand of white opaque quartz as if covered
with snow, like the Angsi, this valley also is broad and
the river broadens illto a series of lakelets a t several
places,
CHEMA-YUNGDUNG-PU (51) (95i ) 5i m. up along the Chema-
yungdung, le everywhere on the way, just in front, on
the other side of the river is Chema-yungdu-pu, the first
glacier of the Tamchhok Khambab ; huge debris and
landslips are lodged a t the tongue of the glacier;
there are some lakelets on the debris and on the glacier
proper, from here the path takes a westward turn,
6. Tamchok #hambabl (9) (96) $m. the Source of the Brahmaputra,
Tamchok Khambab Kangri (1) (97) lm. the Tamchok
Khambab Kangri, glacial source of the Brahmaputra,
122m. Shibla-ringmo la,
7. Angsi chhu (17) (1 14) 4fm. Ailgsi chhu, le,
1 Tamchok Khambab (Tamchok means the celestial horse, and Khambab means coming
out of the mouth of) theworse-Mouthed river has got its traditional source here. Here is a
big boulder about 12 feet high on which there are two footprints, over which is built a loose
Stone-walled hut facing the east. On t he t op of the hut are placed two horns of a wild yak.
'Adjacent to the boulder there are one roofed and two unroofed donkhangs of loose stones,
piled mp crudely. ,411 around are several cairns. There is a dry spring nearby which is
said to contain water in summer and rainy seasons.
Tho river TamchokKhambab or Chema-
yungdung as is called here, is 50 yards from this monument or chhorten.
l m. up this place
is another glacier which the guide said mas tho main glacier ofnTamchok Khambab, for
the river Tamchok Khambab actutllly takes its rise here. Nyakoraa who regularly come here
every year to glaze their cattle givo tho following derivation of t he word Tamchok Khambab :
to moans horse, amchok means oars, and khambah moans coming out of the mouth of ; SO,
the meaning of t he word Tamohok Khambab 18 ' Horse-ears-mouthed-river '. The Tamchok
Kharnbab glacier and the Chema-yungdung-pu glacior are considcred t o be the two ears of the
Brehrnaputra and go by the common narno of Chemn-yungdung-pu or simply Chema-
yungdung ; and tho spring near tho chhorten is the mouth. I t is also pronounced as Chema-
Yuntung, Chema-yungdung, or Chema-yungt~~ng. Chema moans sand and yungtung or
yungdung moans svketika (s). Opposite this monrimont is a broad-faced peak separating
the two glaciers of Tamchok Khambab atloast for the appearance. It is just possible thab
these two glaciers are cU~lnoctod with each other on the back of this peak. From Chema-
Jungdung-pr~glacier this broad-faced peak appears t o be a sharp pointed conical peak.
TO the west or north-west of tho main glac~er of tho Tamchok Khambab there ie another
mall glacier behind which is tho Angsi glacier. The author visited the source of the Brahma-
utra on June 17 and 18, 1937, when the whole bod of tho river 16 t o 60 feet broad was
a me n en h k k , 6 t o 7 feet thick, for 3m. Loginning from the main gl ui er downwards. I n
the middle of tho frozen bod of tho river thore was, as i t were, e beautiful trench 3 t o 6 feet
broad and about 6 foot deep, hotween t he porpendiculnr ice-walls of which the river wee
flowing with gi~rgling noises. Nyakort~ llomnd shephcrrls go there in Auguet for yak-hunting,
for wild yak is found horo in largo numbers. Svon Hedin hns wrongly placed the eource of
the Br ~ h ma ~ u t r a in the Kubi kengri glnriors, instend of in t he Chema-yungdung glaciers,
Pertly because ho could not grt t r ~ns por t to th@ rcal souroe. The subject has been fully
discussed by tile author l n hie hook ' Exploration in Ti bet ' published by t he Calcutta
University, now running the second edition. Them is,plenty of grass in the Chema-yungdung
valley and many shepherds calno hare to graze their cattle. The white quartz sande of the
river are very conspicl~ous for a b, ~ut 101~. from the source downwards and they could be
from long distances ae if thoro had been a fresh snow fall.
2a
13m. Tag la,
8. Tag-ramochhe (21) (136) 8m. Tag-ramochhe camp, le,
,
4im. Chhumik-thungtol, sacred spring, le,
144m. almost along the Tag, cross the 34 feet deep and furious
Tag t o its left bank,
l i m. further down Tomomopo, geysers, boiling hot springs,
luke warm water springs, kund, le,
9. Nyomba-chhuten (164) (155) $m. Nyomba-chhuten (mad hot
springs, le, (see p. 47))
34m. ascent and descent into the Nimapendi valley to Nono-
kur shepherd camp, (see Table 111), cross the 2 feet deep
river to its left bank,
34m. Yerngo Gompa, seventh monastery of the Lake,
10. Thugolho (9) (164) 24m. Thugolho Gompa, eighth monastery of the
Holy Lake, the Headquarters of the author (see Table HI),
98m. Gurla la,
11. Baldak (18) (182) 8;m. to Baldak camp, le, (see p.p. 121 and 122),
12. Taklakot (16) (198).
TABLE XXIII
TAKLAKOT TO THE SOURCE OF THE KARNALI
AT MAPCHA CHUNGO-23 MILES. '
Taklakot (0) (0) (see Table V),
1. Harkong ( 14t ) (144))
2. Mapcha Chungo (89) (23) spring, Traditional Source of the Map
chhu or Karnali. The glacial and genetic source of the
Karnali is in the Lampiya pass, which is at a distance
of two short days' march from here.
TABLE XXIV
TARClHHEN TO THE SOURCE OF THE SUTLEJ
#
AT DULCHZT GOMPA-21 MILES.
Tarchhen (0) (0) (see Table V),
Zfm. Lha chhu,
After t he Angsi and t he Rongak chhu join t he Chemn-yungdufig, a little further down,
tho Chema-yungdllng tsnngp-as i t i~ called there-broadom enormously i nt o two big lek-
c q e d Rnpg a1 chhnngo and Guru-kyok. The Hhotia m~ r c h a n t ~ who go from Manclsarov~r
bbyond t he Zubi or Kupi ohhu for p~~r c ha a e of wool rogsnl t h<rhmndonedri nr t o be the sourreof
t he Br a hma put r ~, end call i t Rr ~hma- kund. As nuch, thoy conoider i t e ~c r e d end bstheinit.
TABLE X X V
3m. Karleb chhu,
7im. Changje-Changju camp, l e,
1. ~ u l c 6 u ~ ~ o r n ~ a (21) (21) 83m. Dulchu Gompa, some black tents,
mani-walls, about 250 yards from the gompa there are
several fresh water springs welling out of the marshy
ground, which the Tibetans assert to be the Traditional
Source of the Langchen Khambab or the Sutlej ; the
Darma pass wherein lies the source of the Darma-yankti
(Langchen Tsangpo) the biggest of the headstreams
of the Sutlej, is at a distance of four days' march from
here.
TABLE XXV
ALMOR'A TO PINDARI GLACIER-
74 MILES
Almora (0) (0) (see p.p. 90-92).
1. Fakula (15),(0) P., D.B., S., shop,
2. BAGESHVAR (12) (27) confluence of the Saraju and the Gomati, P.,
H., D.B., S., D., bazaar, temples etc. (see p. 95 & Table XI),
3. Kapkot (14) (41) D.B., D., shops,
Loharkhet (9) (60) D.B., shop,
4. Dhakuri (6) (56) D.B., shop,
I Khati (6) (61) D.B., shop,
"
Dwali (7) (68) D.B.,
5. Phurkiya (3) (71) D.B.,
Ph.larl Glacier (3) (74) one of the most beautiful glaciers ; lm.
before reaching the glacier there is a cave, believed t o be
the winter abode of the goddess Nanda Devi. To the
east of the glacier is the peak Nandakot (22,610) ; t o
In,
*t he west is Trisul (2'3,306) ; and t o the north is Nanda
Devi (26,646) ; prom here one path goes over the snow range
t o the village Martoli on the third route to Kailas (see
Table XI). This pass was first crossed by Trail in 1830.
So it is called Trail's pass (17,700). There is a veteran
guide by name Divan Singh in the village Martoli, who
has guided several tourists over this difficult andyet inter-
esting pass from the mountaineering point of view.
KA I L A S - MA N A S A R OV A R
TABLE XXVI
SRINAGAR TO AMARNATH
VIA PAHALGAM 59 x 28$=87f MILES
Srinagar (0) (0) [5,260] Capital of Jammu and Kashmir State,
9m. Pampur, saffron fields, from which saffron is collected,
from A shvin Purnima (October),
94m. Avantipura, ruins of old temples,
7m. Sangam, confluence of Jhelum and Vishva rivers,
34m. Bijbihara, town,
4m. Khanabal, Jammu-Srinagar road meets here, Jammu
is 173m. from here,
1. ANANTA-NAG1 (34) (34) [5,300] l m. also called Islamabad, town,
2m. Gautam-nag, spring,
l i m. Bavan, village,
l m. Mattana, Pandas of Amarnath live here,
$m. Bunzu, situated in t he mountain on the right side of
the road, there is a cave 200 yards long, the cave is very
dark and one shall have to take a torch t o get in, at
places one shall have t o crawl on the belly,
8fm. Aishmukam, there is a Mohammedan shrine here,
24m. Ganeshpura, Head-Works of Martand canal,
3m. Batkut, one third of the offerings of Amarnath go t o
Mohammedans of this village,
2. Pahalgam"25) (59) [7,200] 6m. t o Pahalgam camping ground,
' Ananta means many and nag means springs. So Anantanag means place of many
springs. Fmm t he foot of a hill here several springs are swelling out forming into a bigkund
(t ub or tenk), 4 feet deep, which has been paved with slabs of atones on all sides. The water
from this hnd falls into another kund and t h e n c e regular atream flows out. From here one
road goes t o Achhabal and one t o Verinag.
' Here is alao a big spring with two kunda which are each 12 feet deep. Two miles from
here situated on a mountain are t he ruins of t he famous Martand (Sun) temple, which wm con-
structed by the king Lalitaditya who ruled over Kashmir from 699 t o 736. The foundation
of t he temple is 225 feet by 150 feet and 84 feet high.
' From Srinagar t o Pahalgam for 8 distsnce of 69m. there is bus service. For going
t o Amarnath one oan get coolies, dandiea, and ponies from here. Every arrangement
shell have t o be made for t he t o and fro journey of Arnarnath, which is 284m. from here.
One can go there very comfortably in 3# days and return in two days. For the Shrava","
Purnima grand arrangements'are made by tho Dharmarth Department of t k 3 K&flhmlr '
Government. The whole road in repaired nnd nt v e r y stage shops arii oponed snd
foodstuffs are sold a t graded rates fixed by the Krtshmir Durbar.
The wages of ponies,
coolies, etc. ere alao fixed.
Every arrangement is made for eudhua regarding food*
clothing, tent etc.
The Sup'erintondent of t he Dhrarmctrth department with his staff, police*
trevelling dispensaries, accompanies the pilgrim parties ; 20,000 to 30,000 rupees &re a$ent
by t he Department t o make arrangements for the oomfort and convenience of pilgnme.
Shme 108 Shankaracharya of Sharda ~eet b' e starts with a silver &Mi, Shiva's stsnderd#
from Srinagsr on foot and reaches Pahalgam by the tenth day of the bright hdf of the
month of Shromna. From here the whole pilgrim party starta in the 12th. One can also vioit
Amernsth on Aahudha Purnima, Bhadvoprsdo Purnima, or Rn any suitable date, but bne sheu
heve t o make one's own arrangements.
T A B L E XXVI 173
shops, cold place, health resort, confluence of Liddar
and Seshnag rivers,
hi. Pahalgam, village,
lm. Pahalgam, pilgrim-sheds on the right bank of Seshnag
stream,
2i m. Frishin, last village,
1. Chandanvadil (84) (84) [9,600] 4m. cross the Asthan-marg
stream t o its left bank (a little before reaching this place
is the confluence of Asthan-marg and Sesh-nag rivers),
five Pilgrim-sheds, one Tourist-hut with two beds,
hirable,
I i m. ascent t o ~i shu-ghat i 2, forest ends here,
24m. Zozipal,
22m. Kutta (the first i m. steep ascent),
lm. [11,730] Seshnag lake3,
2. Wavjan (8) (16;) [12,320] lm. Waujan or Wavjan, 5 Pilgrim-sheds
and one Tourist-hut with two beds, scarcity of fuel from
here onwards, a sort of furze or juniper which burns even
when green is used as fuel, place of severe winds
(cross the ice bridge t o its left bank and after l m.
recross t o its right bank, from here begins the steep
ascent up to Mahagunus),
l i m. Ashad-dhaki, C.,
'' l+m. [14,000?] Mahagunus pass, before reaching the pass and
on the descent form the pass for a short distance one
may have to go on ice, from the pass up t o the Pancha-
tarani i t is one continuous steep descent but up to Kailnad
i t is very steep,
Im. Huksar,
gm. Kailnad, stream, Asthan-marg route meets here, (from
here Hat ~ara-t al av is 2m. ascent where hundreds of
pilghms died once due t o heavy snow fall ; hence the
name IYatyara-talav-the murderous lake ; i m. further
' From here one road goes t o Amarnath via Asthan-mnrg and Hntyari-talav but i t has
now been abandoned by tho Kashmir Government. The stago Chandenvadi is situated in
tJle midst of ra. ping forest.
A littlo beyond Chandanvadi llugo avalanches are lodged on the
S h e h a g river forming natural ice bridges.
' From Chandanvatli t o Pishu-ghati i t is tl very hard ascent but in 1937 or 80, another
road has been m d e t o reduce the stee nos8 of t he ascent, but i t is a little longer than the first.
a The Ltlke Sheshnag is 600 foot beyow tho level of tho road situated in tho icy lap of the
Kobenhar glacior [17,000] . The beautiful snow peaks and tho Kohenher glaoiers are situated
a few mil08 on the north of t he lake and form a pict~lresque background t o it, and the meltcd
anow wator of those lacier8 Ieed tho lake. The rivor Sheshnag flows out of the lake in beauti-
ful ~ c a d e s . One sfall have t o get down for nearly a mile from tho road t o reach the shore
of the lake. Due t o tho prescnoe of gypsum in the surroundin mountains the water in the
lake is milky white. Tho sconory of tho lakc is very sublime a n t fascinating and the spiritual
vibration of the lake is superior t o t hat of Amamath.
K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
very steep ascent to Saskati [13,860] ; from here
3m. very steep and headlong descent on scree to Asthan-
marg [10,800] ; 4m. steep descent to Chgndanvadi;
a total of 9;m. from Kailnad. to Chandanvadi), from
here up to Panchatarani
one shall have to cross the
streamthrice from one side to the other,
2m. Nagarpal, huge boulder, I
3. Panchatarani ' (8a) (242) [12,015] l i m. cross the river t o its
right bank, 5 Pilgrim-sheds, one Tourist-hut with two
beds,
Amarnath Cave2 (4) (282) [12,729] there is an ice image of Shiva-
Before reaching this stage one shall have t o cross t he five branches of Pmchatarani.
Panchatarani is a tributary of t he river Sindh, which in t urn is a tributary of the river Jhelum.
Prom here one path goes direct t o Amarnath over a very steep mountain called Bhirav-ghati
[ 14,350 1. Amarnath is a t a distance of 3m. by this route. One shall have to start from
Panchatarani t o Amarnath and then return back t o this place or t o Wavjan according to one'n
own capacity. After going for a mile from Panchatarani there is a steep ascent of im. to 0
pass ; from here the road takes a, sharp t urn t o t he right. Leaving a few places here and there
from here up to Amarnath one shall have t o go over a glacier or over several feet thickice, that
has been lodged in t he bed of t he Amaravati river. About 200 yards of ascent takes one to
t he cave of Amarnath.
The cave of Amarnath is about 150 feet cubical. Tho whole cave leaks from the roof
with the exception of a small space under t he projection of a rock (as much as 3 pereons
could lie down side by side) on the left hand side at t he entrance of the cave while going in ;
so the whole cave is damp. It seems t hat t he walls of t he cave are of gypsum. There are two
holes in the northern wall of t he cave, from which water trickles out tlnd freezes into ice as
soon as it comes out. One of t he holos ie bigger, below which a huge snow lingo is formed
which is the famous snow image of Amarnnth. On the left side of t he Gnga isformedpnother
Comparativv Sizes of the Snow Image of Amarnath in Different months.
Perpencliculnr height of tho Image
on Jul y 21. 1029 . . . . , , 7) feet
on August 20, 1029 . . . . . , 4 feet
on September 18, 1R29 I I I, .- . 1 foot
TABLE XXVI 175
linga in the cave. In the inner roof of the Amarllath cave
there is not one, as is wrongly described by many people,
but there are several pairs of wild pigeons, raven, crow,
yellow-billed chough, red-billed chough, sparrow, owl, mina,
and some other birds. Besides these birds, kites are
seen flying over the cave. Just below the cave and the
surrounding regions there are marmots and wild rats.
ioe formation called Ganesh and on i t s right Parvati and Bhairav, but by Shmvana Purnima
all these three melt away. So, Pandas bring some blocks of ice from down below and place
them here and wrap some blankets round them. The cave is faoing south and sun's rays
do not fall directly on t he image of Amarnath. So the snow image of Amarnath does not
oompletely melt away in summer. The stories regarding t he snow image of Amarnath t hat
it grows gradually in the bright half of tho lunar month up t o full moon day and melts away
in the dark fortuight of t he month by the new moon day, are completely false and fabri-
cations. Tho author stayed in the cave for a fortnight beginning from August 8, 1929, and
closely studied the subject and also took measurements of t he snow image on Ashadha,
Shravana, and Bhadra~ada Purnimas (full moon days). The perpendicular height of the
image was 7), 4 and 1 foot respectively. I n Jul y tho shape of t he linga was sharp and
oonspiouous, in August i t was ordinary, and in September t he form of t he image has com-
pletely gone away and a triangular block of ice one foot thick was all t hat was left. So i t
is evident that t he snow image in Amarnath cave forms in si r months and melts in the
succeeding six months like any other glariers. or ice blocks.
Inside the cave of Amarnath there is a small cave on t he left side of t he image, from which
8 ohelk-like substance is dug out and taken as vibhuti of Amarnath. On Shravani day the
Mohammedans of Batkot sell this white substance and those who visit t he rave a t other times
may take as much as they like. On chemical examination i t is found t o contain calcium
ohloride in large quantities and calcir~m sr~lphato in sufficient quantities. On t he western
side of the cave there is a small stroaln called Amar Gangs in which pilgrims tnko their bath.
There are large quantities of this whito substance in t he bed of this stream also.
Begirlning from Chindanvadi up t o Amarnath and three miles furthor up and in by-valleys,
hj j aru (grazers especially of buffaloes and goats) of Punjab and Chaupans (sheepgrazers)
of Keshmir come in rainy season with their buffaloes, goats, and sheep, and camp a t various
places. They are a11 Mohammedans. About 400 years back t he Mohammedan shepherds
of Btltkot (a village om. before roaching Pahalgam), gave information t o the Hindus of Kashmir
about the existence of this cave. Thus began the worship of the snow image in this cave.
All the offerings t hat are made t o this image on Shravani day (money, fruits, clothes, etc.)
ere divided into three shares ; of thoseone share goes t o Shree Shankarachsrya Math ofsrinngar,
one goes to the Pandas, and one t o tho MohUlumedans of Batkot, whose ancestors showed
the caves t o the Hindus. I n return tho Mohammedans of Batkat undertake t he dut y of
cepairing the road every year from Pahnlgam t o Amarnath for Shravani Puntima.
There is no montioq of Amarnath either in Shiva Putana or in any other Purana.
There
ia a detailed description of a11 tho tirtha.9 of Kashmir in Nilamat Purana, one of the oldest
P u r a ~ of Kashmir, but,in sloka 1635 there is a mere mention of t he name Amarnath. I n
bhat very Puram, Vitnsta or t he Jhelum is doscribod as the greatest and holiest of
the lirlhas of Kashmir, but nothing about Amarnnth. Similarly in Rajatarangini.
the famoue history of Kashmir, in s l o k ~ 267 of t he first part, there is only t he mere
mention of the word Amaroshvnrnnnd no description of it. This clearly goes to prove
that tho prodent Aulernath is not tho ono t hat is montioned in Nilamat Purana or
Kajalorangint. BLC Dr. Stein, who hns t r~nel nt ~ed Rajntarangini into English, says t hat the
simple montion of tho nnmo Amarnnth, in Rnjatarangini, i t seems t hat i t must have been
a very ~rdi nary. ~l aco nt t hat timo. Ono old ICeshmiri Pandit told the author t hat the nhmes
of all tho tirthaa of ICashmir are given in Bhavani Sahaaranama, but no mention is made of
Amarnath. I t is also said t hat Amr-knthu was written only about a century back by a
Kmhrniri Pandit and t,hat no mellt,iofi of i t is mndo in any Sanskrit work or in any history.
An old Knshmiri Pandit of AnnntRn~g stlid thnt Paridit Hnridas Trikkn, a relative of Dewan
Nandararn of Kabul, discovrrod the cave of Amnrnnth for tho first timo about 226 years back.
Then the rollto W R ~ via Uhairav-~hn,t,i ; about a rcntury later, Sant Singh, a relative of Raja
Ranjib Singh, vi8itc.d this cave by another route by whirh t he ydra goes no*-a-days ; aB
#uoh, tho route is up t o dny cnllcd Jnnt Singh's route.
, There is no spring or l ~l t ol et jrlst on t he roof of Amarnnth care, for the mountain riscs
TABLE XXVII
RAXAUL TO PASHUPATINATH- t ,
77 MILES
Raxaull (Indian) (0) (0) Railway Terminus of B. N. W. Ry.,
&m. Raxaul (Nepali), Light Railway,
3i m. Birganj, Railway station, Bazar, dharmashala,
1. Amlekhganj (24) (24) 20m. Railway Terminus, bazaar, hotels,
during pilgrim-season goods lorries are used for carrying
passengers between Amlekhganj and Bhimphedi,
6m. Chandi-mayiJs temple, from here buses pass through two
tunnels about a furlong long,
2. ~hi mphe di ~ (27) (51) 21m. bazaar, D., change of passport here,
cross the river to its right bank,
abruptly from t he cave upwards.
Getting down from t he cave, cross the Amravati to its left
bank by an ice bridge. After proceeding for two or three furlongs, recross the Amravati
by another ice bridge t o its right bank and proceed up t he Jnana Ganga northwards. On the
way there are several caves, of which four still contain ice. One of them contains as much
of ice as in Amarnath cave, with two or three Bhivalinga-like protuberances on the maas of
ice. All these caves ere situated on t he right side of t he pat h while going up at a distance
of 8 furlong.
NO shepherds pass by this way.
The path is either on ice or over ecree.
After e steep and hard ascent one reaches t he t op of Amarnath mountain or Amernath
pass. Getting down a few yards t o t he other side of t he mountain are two beautiful cr~fl bl
clear blue watered lakelets situated amidst a, snowfield or glacier. One is called J I I I P I - ~
and is bow-like in shape end some icebergs are floating in it. The temperature of the water
was 34OF. The outor lakelet is called Some-rar end is eye-like in shape and is a little smaUer
but much deepor.
These two lakes are separated by a huge mass of'loe.
There is'* flub-
terranean passage from t he latter into t he former, out of which a stream flows out into the
Zozi la stream falling towards Drass. Getting down from t he lake one path goes to Matbyan
on Zozi la-Lodakh road. The author visited this place on August 23,1929 when he sojourned
in t he Amarnath cave.
Juat opposite the cave of Amarnath, there is a mountaincalled ~hai rav- ~hat i , cr088i ng~hi e~
one path goes hr ect t o Ptmchatarani. Several years beck i t is said t hat some stray pjlg~lme
use t o fling themselves down this t op and give up their lives in anticipation of salvation;
80 also from t he top of t he Amarnath cave. !Hence on Shmvana Purnima dey police a?
posted on the way t o Bhairav-ghati and t o t he t op of t he Amarnath cavo to avoid any accl'
dont. The pilgrimage begins a t 7 a.m. on t hat day and is over by 2 or 3 p.m. ~ n d nobody
is ellowed t o stay after that. From Amarnath cave one path go08 down the Amravatl UP to
its contluence with Yenchatarani.
The combined river is called Sindh.
Then get dom
t he river t o Baltal. 8rinager t o Baltal is 60m. and Beltel t o ,$marnath cave i t is 12m.
One vlslt Amernath by this route i n June and July (Jyeshlha and Aehadha) .whentheIce
bridges on t he river are still i n tact.
One oan reach Raxaul via Ayodhye and Qorekhpur, or vie. Samastipur end Mueze-
fferpur. From here Nepal-Raxaul is st a distance of i m. wherefrom Light Railway Line of
Nepal begins. For going to Kathmandu or Pashupathinath one shall have t o secure the
paasport of Nepnl Qovernment, but on t he occasion of dhivaratri, for teved'daye befod,
end ten days efter t hat day, t he gates of Nepal are ee i t were opon t o the outsider, end the
pessport elips are nominally given a t t he railway station a t the time of issul.ng tickets, just
t o escertain the exact number of pilgrims who have visitad Nepal. From ~ e p e l - R e x ~ ~ l
t o Amlokhganj thore is train service for 24m. Only half fares aro charged from the pilgrim'
during this period. Due t o heavy rush of pilgrims a t this time most of t he third cleem Peesen'
gem shall heve to travel in goods wagons, closely paoked up.
' One shall have to engage coolies, dondies etc. from here. ~ r z m here up to ~ 8 t h ~ ~ ' ~ ~
there ere dharmaahalaa in every chatti and temporary tents and free catering houses
up by the Nepal Durbar for t he service of eadhw and the needy pilgrims. In this ~ i b ~ ~ ~ q ~
0. 0 shall hsve t o go on foot or dandy between Bhimpedi land Thankot, s distance of lem.
t he remalung dietenoe oould be done either by train or by bus. Of thie dietanoe of ldm"
T A B L E X X V I I 177
"nm. very steep ascent to Chisa-garhi, again change of pass-
port, old fort, shops,
&a. ascent,
2Qm. very steep descent to the village Kuli-khani,
Im. 2 cross the river to the Chatti Kuli-khani, shops, D., tents
for pilgrims,
3. Markhu (8) (69) 2m. shop, D.,
24111. ascent,
km. descent to tlze village Chitlang,
2111. very steep ascent to Chandan-garhi, hi e view of Nepal
valley and the snow peaks,
241n. very steep descent t o Pani-ghat, chntti, shops,
Thailkot (8) (67) Qm. descent, langar or free feeding house for
sadh~ts, during pilgrim season buses run from here up to
Kathmandu,
l i ni . ropeway station,
rim. Pachali-ghat, Octroi Post,
&m. Thapthali, Sadhlls' Aklzadas,
4. Katmandu1 (8) (55) ltn. also called Kathmandu, Kashtha-
inandapa, or Kathmaizdav, capital of Nepal,
5. Pashupatinath"2) (77) about 2111. east of Kathmandu is tlze
one shall have to do 4m. steep ascoi~t and Btm. steep descent. There is t he Electric Ropeway
Statiqp s t Dhorsnnp, (which is situated a t a place l i m. before reaching Bhimphedi) for a
distance of 19m., from here up to 54m. before reaching Katmandu. Big iron posts aro sot
up s t intervals ant1 thick iron ropes are passod ovor them with transmitters a t intervals. Crad-
lea are hung ovor tliese ropes in ~vhich goods are carried day and night. Those who have got
extre luggage ctln sand i t by R.opewa,y if thoy cnnnot secnre adequate transport, b i ~ t a lot of
formnlities shall have to bo nndergono iu taking the Inggage bn.ck a t Kathmandn. Abont 12
as. par maund are chargod as freight.
Katbmandi~ is tho capital of Nepal.
Tl l er ~ are pn.latdnl buildings of t he members of tho
royal families, old Hindu and Brtddhistic templos, and several tomples of G~rakbnat ~h.
On Shdvarntri day thero is held a grent mih\ary exhibition on the parade ground from 2-30
p.m. The King of Nepal (Pnmh Circar), tho Primo Ministor (Teen Circar), Supreme
I Commander-in-Chief, Assistant Commander-in-Chief, and other high officia.1~ assemble here
on tho occasion andl ahout 4,000 t o 15,000 Gurkhn soldiers line t he parade gronnd on all tho
four Rides. As n mark of respoct of sn.hit,a.tfion t o theLord ShreePashupatiuath, a.t about 3-30
or 4 p.m. contini~o~isly f o ~ ten millrltes, thero will be firing of giins and of big and emdl cannons.
After t hat all t he officials make n ro~l nd of the tomple of Bhadraknli t hat is situated on tllc
owtern side of tho pnrado grollnd and then disporso. From here ono can have a fine view of tho
dollble poak of Gouri-Shankar (not Everest).
The King of Nepal is called Pn~lch Circer,for five ~hrees (q?) ure written bef0r.e his name and
' the Prime Apinister is callod Toen Circar, for three ahrres are written before his name. I n fact
tho Prime Mi ni ~t er is the virtnnl hoad of tohe stnto nnd tho King llimsclf a nolninalfig~irohead.
Nop~l hns got its own postn.go sta.mps and coinage. Nopali R.11pee is equivalent t o 129 annnR
and Mohnr ~$"annns. Thore nm othor smn.11er ~i l ver a.nd copper coins.
' The temple of Ynshr~~atinntll is sitrlatod on the right hank of t he river Baghmati.
Tho Rrlper~truot~ure of t he temple is liko t hat of n Chinese Pagodn and i~ a11 wood and ha,m
fino ~peci rnon~ of carvings. Inside t he tolnple thore is a three-foot high ehivalinga with
four faces on the four &do#, Tho p j a r i of the t,emple hails from South Indir. I n front of t he
templo thero is a hiigo braes image of sit,ting Nandi or bull. During t he time of pilgrimage
all fladh1~8 aro c~t,ored free by tho Nepal Dl1r11n.r and on thc third and fourth day ~ 1 1 sndh.v5q
2 3
I
K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
temple of Pashupatinath.
nro given a send off by payment of ca,sh ranging fro111 1 to 50 rupees. Thore iongreat rush
on Shivcoatri day in the temple and there will be illumi~laticn during the whole night; and
pilgrims keep awake all through t he night spending their time in moditationin the surround-
ings of the temple. Just oppo3ito the temple situated on t he other side of the river are the
rows of me~uorials of t he departed Kings and Maharajas of Nepal. The river Baghmati
flows hero in n deep gorgo with steep mo~untnins on either side. Jjuring pilgrim sen~on thore
i~ 14 to 2 foot deop aat or in the river.
About Am. north-east of L'nshupatinath t e~npl e therc is tho t c~upl e of Cuhycshvari, which
is snit1 t o be one of the eighteen Peethas of Ucri. About 2 or l m. north of Guhyeshvariis the
grent slapa called Bodha, also called 3Inhabodhi. I t is said t hat the Emperor Asokahadgob
this consttr~~ct,ecl. There are houses alround the stupz, most of t,hc residents of which are
'l'il~et~nnn. 2hm. south of Kathiaandu is tho suburb called Pattun, also called Lalita-pattrn
or -4~oki ~-pnt t an. Emperor h o k a got i t inhabited. )m. furthor fro111 this place thereisthe
fnmouv Buddhist temple called Namo 13uddhaya on which there are innumerable images of
Uoddhn. Ahout 2m. west of Kathniandn, situated on the t op of a mountain is another great
rrlapn called Soayatnbhu. Besides t h e ~ e there are several othcr lirlhas in the surroundinga of
Knthmandu like Balaji, BucU~a-nilakant.h, Vajra-yogini, Ugra-tars, Bhagavati, Dattatreya,
1)akshina-kali, Goclevari, Mano-kamanaand others (See Map No. 10). There are some treesof
rt~drakaha in tho neighbourhood of Kathmantlu ; but t he rudrakshas used in India, as rosary arc
~uost l y imported in bagfi~llu from Sumatra and Java. These are lator sorted and stringed. At a
~lintnnco of 12 days' march from ICathrnar~do is Muktinrtth ; and two or threo days' march
h~r t her is Damotlnr-knncl, the source of the river Gandrtki, where shnlayrams of marine fossils
iiro fount1 in lnrge numbors. One roatl goes from Rlnktinath t o Kailas and Rlonns via
ICli~,~,hnr, ;111tl one via R.lnsta.ng up the Bm.hmaputra vnlley ; hut t.hese ror~ten are long ant1
t r~t l i o~~n o ~ ~ c s n ~ ~ r l as such, trc:kkecl only by aadl r~~s.
The time of pilgrimngc to Pnshopat,inath being winter, i t is vcry coltl, both at ICathmandll
ilntl on tho wng ; be~i des this, somet.imes therc will be snowfall also ; so pilgrim6 wollld do
al.ll t80 t,rtkc nulfirinnt warm clothing and blankets wit11 them.
KAILAS - MANASAROVAK
w LV'L11L W hV15
GII:Nl31<AL INVOKRIIATION FOR TOURIS'L'S
GI-IiNJ4ltAli 'INFORMATION FOl t 'I'OUKlS'YS
WHO CAN UNDERTAKE '1'HE JOURNEY
Ally persoil with strong lungs and sound heart, and tvlio is not
suffering from high blood-pressure call undertake the journey to the
Holy Kailas and Manasarovar. He should be able t o bear hard-
ships, difficulties, and inclenleiicies of weather. Every year 50 t o
200 pilgrims, young and old, children and women, from India visit
these Holy Tilthas ; besides, hrindreds of Indian borderlalid Rhotia
lnercl~ants oi both the seses gc there every year for trade.
PASSPORT
No passport is needed for Indians (whether they be pilgrims, tourists,
or traders) for going to any part of LVesterii Tibet. Passport froin
the Government of India is required by those who want t o visit Lhasa,
the Capital of Tibet, which is not a place of Hindu pilgrimage.
Europeans and other foreigners who wish t o visit any part of Tibet
from India are required t o possess a passyort from the Government
of India. Up t o Dliauli Ganga, Mansyari, and Phurkiya ill Almora
District and from Sttraitota t o Kedarnath in Garl-lwal District i t is
called " Inner Line ". Non-Indians shall liave to get the permit
of the Deputy Coiliiliissioiler to cross i t and go up to the India11
bonderland. 3
AR'l'ICLES NEEDED FOR '1'HB JOURNEY
Clotlcks
(1) 2 or 3 good woollen blankets.
(2) Clzutka (thick Tibetan blanket, to be hired or bought a t
Garbyang or at Taklakot).
(3) Bedding according t o one's own requirenients.
(4) 1 Woollen shirt.
(6) 2 Woollen pyjamas or trousers.
(6) 1 Woollen sweater.
~ ( 7 ) 2 Pairs of woollen stockings.
(8) 1 Woolle~i muffler.
(9) ')1 h i r of woollen gloves.
(LO) 1 ,Pair of puttis for legs.
(1 1) 1 Woollen balaclava cap (monkey-cap).
(12) 1 Woollen overcoat.
(13) 1 Light waterproof coat. '
(14)
1 Waterproof coveriilg for the hat when one is taking a hat.
(16) 2 or 3 pieces of $1-cloth or waterproof to cover the bedding
and luggage.
( LG) 4 Cottoll shirts.
(17) 1 Pair of cottoil pyjamas.
(18) 1 Pair of dhoties.
(10) 1 Pair of towels.
(20)
3 or 4 yards of spare cloth.
(31)
1 Pair of strong full-hoots, preferably of caiivas aud one
pair of ordinary shoes.
( 2 ) 1 Umbrella.
illedicines
(1) Chlorodyiie, Clan~phorodyne or Bismuth-for diarrhoea.
(2) Salphagannidiile or Dover's powder-for dysentery.
(3) Soda bicarb
1 for indigestion.
(4) Bhashav-lavan 1
~,
(5) 1:ruit salt-for indigestion and free inotioti.
(0) Mepacrine or Palltldriile tablets-for malaria.
(7) Sticking plaster.
(8) Potassium Permanganate
(9) Tincture of Iodine
I
For dressing ~vounds,
(LO) Acid Boric and Sulphanilarliide powder
cuts, boils, etc.
(1 1) Absorbent cottoil
(1 2) Rolled bandages
(13) A. B. C. liniment-for pain in joints.
(14) Cafiaspiri~l or Aspro-for headaches, slight i ndi s~si t i ons, ilcfiillg
limbs, etc.
(1 6) Influenza mixture.
(1 6) Purgative pills.
(17) Vaseline bottles-for applying to face, llose, nlltl l~allcls ill cold
places. e
(18) Amritdhara and Amrutanjan-for all coinplai~its.
(1 9) Smelling salt
for colds.
t
@
(20) Vapex
(21) Ginger chips or some citrus article-for bill'iousness.
(22) J. J. Declien's People's Medical Service Set.
(23) 1). I-). T. Powder-for bugs, flies, lice ctc.
(24) Clar1,olic acid or some other toothache cure.
Q
(25) Tootll-hrtish and tooth-powder.
(36) J511enia can or syringe.
C
(27) Kubber catheter.
(28) Hot water bag.
(29) Clinical Thermometer.
a
(30) Cihazal tablets-for Plieutno~lia and Bronchitis.
. ~l i scel l n~zeor~s rl vt icles n
(1) Torch light with spare batteries.
(2) Candles.
(3) Hurricane lanterii.
(4) Kashmiri Kangri (an earthen pot, for holding fire, encased ill an
illdigellous willow-basket, generally carried uilder t he long
loose cloak, for keeping the body warm ; call be secured from
some Kashmiri friend).
(5) Stove with accessories iilcluding methylated spirit.
(6) Kerosene oil (to he taken froin Almora).
(7) Match boxes.
(8) Portable cooki~ig vessels, ladle, dishes, plates, tea-kettle, cups,
spoons, tiffin carrier, etc.
(9) Pressure, Ic-mic, Annapurna, or Rukmini Cooker (rice is not
well cooked in ordinary vessels at altitudes above 10,000 ft.)
(10) Thermos flask.
(11) 2 Buckets or empty tins with handles--for fetching and heating
water on the way.
(12) 1 or 2 Light package boxes for keeping \lessels, kettle, cups,
bottles, and such other breakables.
(13) 1 Till with lock-for keeping sn-eets aiid other eatables (often
pilgrims complain against servants for pilfering eatables).
(14) 2 Gunny bags-for putting the holdall and other boxes so as t o
be portable for carrying either by coolies or ponies.
(15) 2 Kit-bags with locking arrangement.
( 16) ' ~ Small cloth bags for bringing Kailas-incense and other articles
on the return journey.
(17) 2, Ropes, each 20 feet long.
(18) Knife.
(10) A pair of scissors.
(20) Hand ase. 3
(21) 2 Locks.
(22) Soaps for batliit~g and washing.
(23) Stick with an iron point (to be bouglit at Hal d\ ~ani or Aln~ora).
(24) A pair of gr&en goggles t o protect eyes from snow-glare arid
the effects of the severe cold nfinds.
(25) Binocular.
(26) One,.,good porta1,le canlero wit11 stiflicient nun~her of roll filn~s
or filn; packs.
(27) Iiodat' s inagnesiu~n r i l ~ h o ~ ~ holder, ordinary n~agnesium ribbon,
or flash powder for taking photos in dark rooms, as at Khochnr
and for seeing clearly the caves, as at Dira-l~huk, Zutl~nl-phuk,
and other plhces.
(28) Maximum and Minimun~ 'Chernionleter.
(29) Centigrade Thern~omder for measuring temperatnres of thermal
springs,
184 KAI I , AS - MA N A S A R O V A R
(30) One portable aneroid barometer.
(31) Some toys, soaps, mirrors, cigarettes, and other petty presents
t o servants, horse-men, arid t o the monks of the mona'beries.
(32) Dried vegetables.
(33) Spices, pickles, chutneys, tamarind, dried mango pieces etc.
(34) Dry fruits-grapes, kismis, dates, almonds etc.
(35) Tea, ovaltine, condensed milk, milk-powder, corn-flakes, the
sweets of ball and chocolates of Almora, biscuits, lemon-drops,
lozenges, sweetto, sugar-cubes, sugar-candy, etc.
(36) Stationery, papers, pencils, pens, ink-bottles, postage-stamps,
envelopes, cards, needles and thread, etc., a copy of the Bhagvad-
Gita and copy of Bhajans.
(37) Spring-balance which can weigh up t o 100 1bs.-for weighing
luggage a t different stages.
(38) 3 or 4 empty hydrogen peroxide bottles or some other strong
bottles with good corks for bringing the Holy waters of Kailas,
Manasarovar, Gouri-kund, and Tirthapuri hot springs.
(39) 1 Pair of double-panniers for each person-for keeping eatables
and other miscellaneous articles t o be placed on the riding-polly.
(40) Camphor, dhup, supavi, agarbatti, wicks soaked in ghee,
vermilion, cardamom, and any other sundry articles which the
pilgrim might choose t o carry.
A list of all articles possibly needed is given ; but one can make a
choice according t o one's own requirements a i d
EXPENSES
The total expellses of the trip t o the Holy Kailas and Manas from
Almora and hack would range from Rs. 250 t o Rs. 600 per ]lead
according t o the standard of livrilg of the pilgrim. I t is always
advisable t o go in batches t o curtail unnecessary expenditure all(l,
t o secure mutual help. ,
Haldwani t o Almora, bus hire including toll at Almora.
Rs. 6.
Almora t o Dharchula (90 miles, hire of a pony, eith& for
luggage (two maunds) or for riding.
Rs. 40 to 45.
Dharchula to Garbyang (66 miles), coolie (coolie
carries 40 seers of load) at Rs. 4 per day. a Rs. 20.
Ciarbyang to Taklakot (32 miles), hire of a Jhabbrt,
yak, pony, or mule of riding or of luggage
(60 seers):'. Rs. 10.
Bal and ohocoletea are mtcde pnrofy out of ovaporat,ed milk (khoa) with 8 little aug8t
added to it.
These oould be preserved even for months.
Two nmnll bago made of tlliok cloth (originally hread-haoket,n) and tied together
firmly Or loosely for carrying light Inggage. Tibet,ang ant1 nhot i a~ 1180 d o u h l ~ - ~ ~ ~ ~ ' ~ ~ ~
made of leather or a thick woollen cloth.
3 One mnr i 8 eq~iivnlent t o two pol~nrln.
107. Manasarovar Frozen,
with Fissures and regu-
lar Blocks of Ice piled
up into Embankments
hue to Corcstal ~ x p l o -
eions
113. The bland Topserma
[ See p. 20.
118. Dr. doan Redin, the Irgmm
lwedirh Explorer
[ See p, as4
0 Q
8
CONVEYANCE 185
Taklakot to Tirthapuri, Kailas-parikrama, touching
Manasarovar, Khocharnath to and fro journey,
. and back to Garbyang, or the same journey ex-
cluding Tirthapuri and including Manas-parikrama,
for one yak, mule, or pony for riding or luggage
(80 seers). Rs. % 30.
If Manas-parikranza or Tirthapuri trip is not included Rs. 25.
Guide at Rs. 4 to 5 per day, for 25 days with or
without food (as arranged). Rs. 100 to 125.
For every four animals engaged from Garbyang to
Taklakot, for one attendant1 at Re. 1 per day. Rs. 3.
Hire of a chhauldari (tent) from Garbyang and back. Rs. 10.
Hire of a chutka. Rs. 4.
Almora to Garbyang, dandy charges for 6 coolies
at Rs. 4 per day, for 13 days. Rs. 312.
Garbyang upwards and back, for 8 coolies at Rs. 6
per day, for 25 days. Rs. 1,000.
The hire of the dandy shall have to be paid for separately ;
but if i t is to be taken for the whole journey it would be
~ cheaper to buy one at Almora ; i t may cost about Rs. 25.
Wages of the cook for two months at Rs. 14 per day,
plus food, a pair of shoes, one pyjama, one shirt
a'hd, one cap. Rs. 160.
Servant, for bringing water, cleaning utensils,
heating water, briilgiilg fuel wherever available,
spkading bedding, looking after other personal
comforts, from Garbyang upwards and back,
at Rs. 2 per day, for 25 days Rs. 60.
Presents to pony-men, servants and others. Rs. 26.
Initial expenses for clothes etc. Rs. 60 to 200.
Fooding expe6ses, per day, at Re. 1 to 2 per day for
two months. ' Rs. 60 to 120.
CONVEYANCE
Coolie.-,, ponies, mules, or dandies,the only means of conveyance
in the mountainous regions, can be arranged from Almora, Dharchula,
Khela, G~rbyang, and Taklakot. As far as possible coolies should
not be engaged from Almora to Dharchula, for they take more time
to do the journey than the ponies aqd often reach the staging place
I Sooing tho Bhotia pony-mm chnrging for the attendant on horses the Tibetan yak-men
also hnve begun demanding for some preacnt,s. So tho author has arranged that the yak-men
RE a lot should be pnirl one rupeoh dny nnd that they should bring water and cleanuteneih
by turns. Rut thie service would be at their convenient time ; so those who require regular
somice shell have t o engage e full-time servant from Oarbyang.
186 K A I L A S - MANAS AROVAR
much later than the pilgrim2, which is a source of inconve-,
nience and annoyance. When coolies are engaged from r'llmora,
Dotyals (Nepali coolies) should invariably be given preference, as
they are the hardiest in mountain-journeys and more serviceable.
At Almora one can get ponies cheaper and more easily through
Messrs Laxmilal Ananda Brothers of Shyam Nivas than other sources,
firstly because they do it with a spirit of service to the pilgrims,
secondly because two of their brothers had been to Kailas and so
are aware of the difficulties and necessities of the pilgrims, and
thirdly because they regularly send their own goods up to Dharchula,
as such pony-men go t o them on their own accord for goods.
Usually for ladies who cannot walk, ponies shall have to be
engaged up t o Dharchula. The pack-ponies go slowly and the rider
would get used t o riding very easily in a day. If a dandy is
engaged from Almora up to Dharchula, there would be a difference
of Rs. 100 for one side of the journey ; and if i t is for the whole journey,
i t would cost Rs. 1,600 whereas the pony-cum-dandy journey
(by dandy between Dharchula and Garbyang) would cost only Rs. 400.
Up till now only three ladies went to Kailas on a dandy.
The road between Dharchula and Garbyang is bad and is not,
negotiable by riding or laden ponies, since the path becomes slippery
during rainy season and at times stones from the slopes of moun-
tains fall on the road. So pilgrims shall have to cover this distaace
either on foot or by a dandy and engage coolies for luggage. In
case the required number of coolies could not be procured from
Dharchula right up to Garbyang, they may be engaged for a day tip to
Khela, wherefrom fresh coolies could be arranged right up to Garbyang.
From Garbyang onwards ponies, pules, yaks, and jhabbus could
be had and they move everywhere. So one should engage ponies up
t o Taklakot only. Generally ponies are supplied for riding and yaks
or jhabbus for luggage. It is always advisable to engage ponies
or mules whenever possible as yaks or jhabbus are furious and most
uncontrolable. It is also advisable to engage ponies or yaks at
Taklakot for the journey to Kailas and Manasarovar and back to
Garbyang, since conveyance can be had much cheaper there than at
Garbyang. It should be noted that i t would be very <didcult or
even impossible to get separately one single pony or a yak either
at Garbyang or at Taklakot, and that the fare is the same whether
it is a riding or a luggage-animal and whether i t is a pony, mule,
yak, or jhahbu. Animals for cbnveyance are to .be engaged in a
batch, in which case the charges would be less.
Usual rates of
conveyance are given here for the general guidance of the pilgrim. But
the charges may rise if the number of pilgrims is great or if there
happens to be any epidemic amongst the animals.
C ON V E Y A N C E 187
From Garbyang onwards, ponies and yaks have got Tibetan type
of woogen saddles to ride on. So heavy blankets and rugs should
be placed on and under the saddles, which would reduce the weight
of the luggage and at the same time gives comfort t o the rider.
Besides this, pilgrims would do well if they keep their eatables, bathing
clothes, drinking vessels, and other articles of necessity, weighing
about 15 seers, in double-panniers and place on the saddles of
the riding ponies. I n this way the weight of the luggage would be
reduced, which will not be charged for and some of the necessities
would always be within reach when one is on the move. A rider is
allowed to carry the double-panniers weighing up to 15 seers.
At the time of engaging the ponies the pilgrims shall have to fix
up with pony-men that they would halt for one full day a t Kailas
and another day on the Manas (preferably at Thugolho). By fixing
up like this in the beginning, nothing is charged extra or else they
will be charged. So also i t is to be fixed up that they shall have t o
camp at the hot springs near Chiu Gompa for the night.
Between Almora and Garbyang coolies usually carry one maund
of luggage and each load shall have to be covered with a waterproof
sheet. Bhotia pony-men at Garbyang load only 1$ maunds of
luggage on each of their ponies and charge at that rate if a small
load is in excess. They weigh all luggage including blankets but not
double panniers; whereas the Tibetan pony or yak-men carry two
full matlnds of load on each luggage-animal and do not weigh blankets
and rugs, if they are put under or over the saddles of both the riding
and Juggage-animals, for they have to bring their own cushions for
the saddles if the blankets are not used in their stead. I n this way
also much money would be saved by engaging Tibetan animals from
Taklakot.
*
As far as possible, bedding and loads should not be made very
bulky.
Three. suspension bridges near Bade-chhina, Thal, and Garjiya
are narrow and ,hence bulky loads and boxes get very badly
damaged by striking against the walls. So also, while getting down
the Gouri-kund on the Kailas-pavikrama, the path is narrow, steep,
and lined with big boulders on either side. Before loading the luggage
on animhls,. a11 articles liable to breakage should be carefully packed
in boxes, for especially the yak is very turbulent and often throws
down th; luggage on ascents and descents, causing considerable
damage ; but the jhabbu is comparatively milder.
One gets very i ~ u c h tired during t he journey in the mountains
and will not generally be able to cook food one's self. So a cook shall
have to be secured a t Almora. As far as possible one should
try to get a Kshatriya cbok, since the Brahmin cook would wor q
very much with his chazcka, which will be a cause of annoyace on
188 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
the way ; the second reason is that another Brahmin or Kshatriya
servant shall have t o be engaged for bringing water. The K~shatriya
cook would bring water for himself up to Garbyang ; and for cleaning
utensils some arrangement could be made either with the pony-men
or with the servant of the shopkeepers. From Garbyang a Bhotia
or Huniya servant can be engaged for doing all this work.
A servant should be engaged from Garbyang for doing every other
work except cooking since he would be able to serve better, being
accustomed t o the severe cold of the Manas Region. The guide
would arrange for the servant. Servants taken from plains or from
Almora would feel the cold of the upper regions as much as the
pilgrim himself, so he would not be of much service as the one from
Garbyang. The servant from the plains shall have t o be fed and given
other facilities like the riding-pony, clothes etc. Usually the servant
from Garbyang would look to the bedding, bring water, clean vessels,
get hot water ready by the time the pilgrim gets up from his bed,
collect fuel, help in pitching the tents, help the cook, and above all
would narrate local traditions. So, as far as possible, one should
not take the servant from the plains unless one is prepared to give
him equal facilities as one's self. Three or four people can jointly
engage a cook from Almora and a servant from Garbyang.
While going in big batches or when one requires more personal
comforts, a mate (cooly-head) has t o be engaged f r ~ m Dharcbla
up t o Garbyang to look after the coolies. He is to be paid as much
as other coolies. He would tie and untie the bedding, get all the
loads tied in order and despatch in time, bring water in staging phces,
clean vessels, and would hold himself responsible for the coolies. He
will not carry a big load but would accompany the pilgrim and carry
his tiffin-carrier, thermos flask, urrfbrella, and waterproof coat to
the extent of 10 t o 12 seers, so that he might be able to keep company
with the pilgrim and not left behind with other coolies.
There is a proverb in Tibetan that ' if a pony dyes not carry the
rider during the ascent, the pony is no pony ; and if a person does
not get down and walk on the descent, the man is no man.'
So one should get down the pony during very steep descents, for it
would be advantageous t o both. Also while movirg ~hrough
marshy regions one should get down the pony, if necessary, or else
the animal would get stuck up or one might be thrown d o h in the
mud very badly. While riding, always make sure that the belt
(l o) of the pony is tied tightly.
There are many oaks on the roadside between derinag and Askot~
the leaves of which fall on the road, and rot during rainy season
where innumerable leeches crop up. One shal! have to put on full-boots
gnd stockings to protect one's self from these pests. If perchance a
HELP AND P OP UL AR PERS ONS 18 9
leech catches the leg, a pinch of tobacco powder or common salt would
make it d ~ o p down.
HELP AND POPULAR PERSONS
At Almora pilgrims should .not fail t o be benefited by the vast
experience of Shree Pandit Rudra Dut t a, Bhatt and his sons who
had rendered great service to several parties, of foreign expeditions,
explorers, and big parties of pilgrims. Pandit Bhatt evinces a great
interest in the Himalayas and in those who intend to visit them.
He has a fine collection of books on the Himalayas and is a veteran
Congress worker of the place. For general information and help
for conveyance, one can approach Messrs Laxmi La1 Ananda Brothers,
General Merchants, who are very generous and religious minded,
or the secretary of the Orphanage, Arya Samaj. The Chairman of the
District Board, Deputy Commissioner, or the Tashildar could as well
be approached with advantage for any special help.
Pandit Umapati, Pandit Jivanand, and Pandit Narottam
have their own ponies and mules and a big shop at Ganai Gangoli
(30 miles beyond Almora). By writing to them in advance, any
number of ponies could be arranged ready from Almora t o Dharchula
or vice versa, on any appointed date.
At Dharchula Rai Sahib Pandit Prem Vallabh, Thakur Kundan
Singh, cloth merchant, and Pandit Haridatt, shopkeeper are
ever ready t o help the pilgrims in every way. At Khela, Kunwar
Pratap Singh Man Singh, Government shopkeepers, are very obliging.
If the )pilgrims were to write to Pratap Singh on the date of their
departure from Almora as to how many coolies and dandies they would
need, he would keep them ready by the time they reach Dharchula.
One or two days before reaching Gr as soon as they reach Dharchula,
they should send a reminder, and they would get their coolies at
Dharchula on .the appointed day.
At Garbyang the, veteran guide Kich Khampa or Thakur Rukum
Singh, would keep everything ready for the pilgrims if they are
intimated in advance. If the definite date of their arrival at Garbyang
is made known to any one of them, he would bring a few riding ponies
'up to Lainhri (.9 miles before reaching Garbyang) to give a lift to the foot-
pilgriiils on the steep and tiring ascent, for which a small amount
is charged I n the absence of a guide, help may be taken from
Thakur Sindal Singh Garbyal, the Post Master, the School Master, and
the Patwari, who ~ u l d gladly r e nde ~ all help t o pilgrims. At the
time of leaving Almora, if Thakur Mohan Singh Garbyal is intimated
at his Garbyang address, lie would make necessary arrangements
for Tibetan ponies and ynks'fro~n Taklakot for further journey.
At Taklakot, some of tlle well-known Bhotia merchants like Thakur
190 KA I L A S - MANAS AROVAR
Mohan Singh Garbyal, Thakur Jamail Singh Garbyal, Thakur Bhup
Singh Gunjyal, Thakur Prem Singh Chaudansi, and others would
render great help to the pilgrims in arranging transport animals,
securing foodstuffs etc., and in getting mails from Garbyang. At
Gapzcdosa (one mile beyond Barkha) Thakur Mangal Singh Pangty,
at Thugolho Thakur Ratan Singh Arya, Thakur Jaman Singh
and Bishan Singh Garbyal, at Gyanima Mandi Thakur Bhagat
Singh Pangty, Thakur Ratan Singh Pangty, Thakur -Kundan
Singh Jangpangi, or any other Johar merchant, and at Nabra Il/landi
Thakur Hayat Singh Nityal, would do the needful for the pilgrims.
HIGHWAY ROBBERS, FIREARMS, AND GUIDES
Up t o a day's journey beyond Taklakot there is no fear of any robbers.
Near the Gurla la, the shores of Manasarovar and Rakshas Tal, Kailas-
parikrama'route, between Kailas and Gyanima Mandi, between
Gyanima and Tirthapuri, between Tirthapuri and Kailas, between
Gyanima and Sibchilim, and between Tirthapuri and Gartok, and
on the way to the sources of the Indus and the Brahmaputra it is often
frequented by highway robbers and freebooters of nomad shepherd-
tribes of Ngakora and of Kham from the month of May to October.
They carry all sorts of arms including swords, daggers, old type of
matchlock guns, latest types of Russian and German pistols, revolvers,
and rifles. These freebooters of nomadic tribes come here from far
Eastern Tibet on a pilgrimage to the Holy Kailas and Manas to
sell their wool and sheep. When they come across ally unarmed
pilgrim or trader they loot him and run away on their horses with
the booty, including luggage and ponies.
For reasons stated above, the intending pilgrims and tourists should
go in batches and take a firearm wit% them. The guide Kich Khampa
has got his own gun, or a gun or a rifle can be hired from some
merchant at Taklakot on payment of a small amount. *At halting places
where robbers are usually apprehended, one or t w ~ hours after sunset,
two or three blank shots may be fired into the air, so that any robber
lurking in the neighbourhood might know that the party have fire-
arms. As a matter of fact there would not arise any occasion for
actually using it ; its mere presence in the party would~go 8 long way
in frightening the robbers. The cost of the cartridges used shall have
to be paid for.
Usually every pilgrim-party, whether big or small, shall have to
engage a guide who will chargea minimum of Rs. per day. Assoonas
the party reaches the camping place, the guide will get all the animals
unloaded, make the pony-men, with the help of other servants, pitch
the tents, get the luggages kept in tents'in their proper places, dig
trenches round the tents if rain is apprehended in the night, and
KAI L AS 'J?O B A D R I N A T H 191
secure milk, curd, butter, or any other article from the neighbouring
shepherd-camp. I n the morning he would get the tents struck,
loads retied and animals loaded, and make the party move. He narrates
the history of different places and persons ; he is the guard, the
interpreter, and in one word he is held responsible for everything
both in the camp and while on the move. All Rhotias know Tibetan
and some Tibetans know Hindi. Invariably all guides know Hindi
and Tibetan both. So a separate intrepreter is not needed.
At Garbyailg there is one veteran guide by name Kich Khampa,
a Tibetan domiciled in Garbyang. He had been up till now 58 times
to Kailas and Manasarovar. He is a polite, calm, intelligent,
enduring, smart, jolly, and very serviceable man and a good cook as
well. Intendlng pilgrims should book his services by sending a few
rupees in advance. He will make every arrangement to the minutest
detail and to the entire satisfaction of the pilgrims. Thakur Rukum
Singh Garbyal is another good guide who had been t o Kailas a
number of times. Besides being a guide he is a good cook as well,
and entertains the pilgrims with his bltajans. There is one guide
by the name of Thakur Mansingh in Soosa of Chabdans. He is a calm
and good-natured man. There is one more guide at Garbyang by the
name of Ringjen, but he is a hot-headed man. Pilgrims can procure
some of their curios through their guide. It is to be noted here that
the pilgrims shaE have to carry at their own cost the luggage belonging
to the cook, guide, and servant, not exceeding 25 seers each. I n the
absence of any guide or in the case of a single person the pony-man
himself would do the whole service on extra payment. Pilgrims
should send postage stamps for getting a prompt reply from the
guides and merchants.
KAILAS TO BADRINATH
Those who want to go to Badrinath from Kailas should first return
to Taklakot after visiting Kailas. The route via Niti is the shortest
from here, but the road is very rocky, so one cannot get ponies for
this journey ; only yaks and j habbm can be had up to Niti which
is 10 days' march from here. The fare per yak would be Rs. 26' and
the yak-mAn ~ l s o shall have to be paid for, as much as a yak, but he
would do the work of a servant also to some extent. The village
Niti is 1474 miles from Taklakot ; Joshimath is 439 miles from Niti ;
and Radrinath is 19 n~iles from Joshimath, i.e. 210 miles in all.
From Niti one shall have to engage coories up to Badrinath who may
charge any amount.
I , OD~I NG AND TENTS
From Altr~ora up to Garbyang there are small dharmashdas and
192 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
shops, where one can rest for the night.
Besides these, there are
Dak Bungalows and Forest Rest Houses a t important flaces and
District Board or Local Primary School Buildings, which can be
used by the pilgrims with the permission of the authorities concerned.
A Dak Bungalow can be occupied without previous notice, provided
i t is vacant at the time ; but in the case of Forest Rest Houses one
has t o apply and secure permission from the District Forest Officer
much in advance and shall have t o strictly follow the programme
which may not always be possible for pilgrims, who are dependent
upon the indefinite programme of their pony-men and coolies. There
is a two-roomed dharmashala at Malpa, but one has t o send a messenger
in advance from Jipti t o get i t cleaned and reserved for them,
for otherwise pilgrims would be put t o a great inconve2ence if ithas
already been occupied when they reach there late in the after-
noon, in which case they shall have t o proceed further for about 8
miles up t o Budi to get shelter, and then there is every possibility
t hat the coolies might not be able to go such a long distance.
A few miles beyond Kalapani there are some cell-like Bhotia
dharmashalas. On the other side of the Lipu Lekh pass there are two
dharmashalas with four rooms each a t Pala, but these are not fit for
the stay of pilgrim-parties and can be used only by stray pilgrims
and sadhus. For further journey one shall have t o take tents which
can be hired from Garbyang. If one wishes he can t ake a pofiable
tent of one's own, the transportation charges would be as
much as the cost of the tent itself. The chhauldari or bivouac-tent
t hat could be had on hire at Garbyang would accommodat6 three
t o four persons and is not air-tight like the full-fledged tent ; but by
keeping one or two extra chuthas, Qne can get on very comfodably-
A separate chhauldari shall have to be hired for the kitchen.
There are no dharvnashalas or Rest Houses in general on the routes in
Tibet. Places where there are water facilities, an3 good pasture
for yaks and ponies, where there is fuel or good *shelter from sever
winds are generally selected for camping grounds. pilgrims and
traders stop a t such places for the night. At such places people
pile up some stones in semi-circular walls 3 t o 4 feet Pgh, jus!
t o protect themselves from the severe cold winds, whi& the author
would call ' walled enclosures ' or ' camping parapets '.# They are
called Zc in Tibetan. I n a few places there are caves to halt.
CLIMATE AND WEATHER CONDLTIONS
Sky is foggy or smoky from May t o June and cloudy up to the
end of August or middle of September. . SO one might miss the
grand view of the snows from Almora and other places during these
months, but the sky usually get cleared up after a heavy rainfall
C L I MA T E A N D WE AT HE R C O N D I T I O N S 193
Almora, Dhaul-chhina, Berinag, and Khela are cool places and blankets
may be needed for covering in the nights. Sera-ghat, Ganai, Thal,
~al vakot : and Dharchula are hot places and the heat is oppressive.
From Khela t o Garbyang i t is cold. From Garbyang upwards i t
is very cold. But Taklakot and Khochar are pretty warm in day-
time. Beyond Kalapani there will be tempestuous and severe cold
winds characteristic of Tibet. To guard one's self against the effects
of the severe cold winds and the ultra-violet rays of the sun present
in higher altitudes, one should apply vaseline to nose, face, hands,
and feet early in the morning before starting for the day's march.
Otherwise these limbs turn black, crack, peel off skin, and bleed.
Monsoon sets in a t Almora by the end of June. So by the time
the pilgrimage to Kailas begins, rainy season sets in ; as such the
journey becomes tedious during ascents and descents when the days are
raining. Monsoon sets in late in Tibet and rains are comparatively less ;
but when it rains, i t rains in torrents. Gyanima Mandi is so cold
even during the market season (July and August) t hat the tenipera-
ture at night would be below the freezing point. The mean
temperature in Manasa Khaiida during the pilgrim-season is between
50"-65" F. in shade. Oiie may have to go on frozen ice for a furlong
while reaching the Lipu Lekh pass and a furlong while
getting down to the Tibetan side if one reaches the pass before
the eiid of June ; but in the month of July hardly there may be snow
for a ht~iidred yards, unless there has been an ui~usually heavy
snowfall in the previous winter. Frequeiitly there would be showers
of snaw on the Lipu Lekh pass aud Dolina la. Mornings are a little
misty ; after midday severe winds begin to blow ; so it is always
advisable to cross the Lipu Lekh in the early hours of the day.
As we go higher and higher above the sea-level, air gets lighter
and lighter and consequently oxygeil gets lesser aiid lesser.
This
insufficiency of .qxygen has a, great effect upon mind and its functions ;
and the finer senses get blunted frequently. So while travelling a t
altitudes above io,ooo feet, one loses self-control and gets
irritable and quarrelsonle quickly.
So i t is often noted amongst
pilgrim-parties t hat the inel~ibers get highly irritated and quarrel-
some ovjr ~ e t t y matters, to which they would not pay much
attention or importance while on lower altitudes. When they get
down to Almora they forget their quarrels and become friends again
and sometimes they wollder as t o how they could exchange such
hot words. So pilgrims going in batches would do well t o note from
Garbyang oiiwards, that if ally one in their party were to lose temper,
others should keep cool for a while. In a short time he would also get
calm. 111 doi~lg so, when aolllebody else loses his temper, this Person
would remain calm himself. In this way pilgrims could avoid a good
194 K A I L A S - MANAS AROVAR
deal of unpleasantness on the way and make the journey smoother.
Pilgrims would please note that they should not get excited when their
pony-man or guide loses his temper when they call him to 'do some
work while he is taking tea in the evening, after the day's rough
journey. This is another factor which makes the journey smooth.
It is generally noted that people of billious temperament get all
the more billious and get headache and nausea while going on higher
altitudes and especially while getting up passes.
Normal persons
also sometimes get headache and nausea. Due to insufficiency of
oxygen supply to the system, liver might be discharging more bile
and spleen more contracted. Perhaps it is due to this hyper activity
of liver and the consequent nauseating tendency that one has a craving
for eating some citrus article. While travelling on mountains i t has
been observed that appetite of some people increases while it decreases
in the case of others. Anyway many would like t o take some tiffin
and tea in the morning before starting for the day's march.
The boiling-point of water falls down by 1" F. for every 300 feet
of ascent. So a t the height of Manasarovar, the boiling-point of water
falls down by about 50" F. Hence, all the articles that are cooked
a t higher temperature will not cook well in these regions.
BENEPITS OF A MOUNTAIN TRIP
Mountain-journey would certainly reduce the unnecessary fa$ of
the bulky people and make them healthier and smarter and look
better. One is cured of several minor ailments dormallt in the body;
there is an i d u x of new blood into the system ; nervous system
gets toned up and endocrine glands get more invigorated ; heart and
lungs are strengthened ; brain is refreshed and mind tranquil,
and one feels rejuvenated. By' the time one returns from
mountainsone feels that a new life has come into the body and becomes .
fit to do one's work with double vigour and efficiency. So, young
men in general and busy workers of all walks of life in particular
should make i t a point, in consideration of their health and even in
consideration of better out-turn of work which they have been doing,
t o go on a holiday once in a year, for a month or more into moun-
tains, forgetting time and space and leaving their watch and o6ce-braind
a t home. When once you do this, you will realise how profitable
i t is even from a business point of view to go on a holidap for a trot
into mountains and feel why you had not done i t earlier.
WHEN TO START FOR THE JOURNEY
Lipu Lekh pass becomes passable from the month of May up t o
the end of November for pilgrims from the plains, though Tibetans
cross the pass for full ten months. One can very conveniently start
TI ME T A K E N F G R THE J OURNE Y 196
from Almora in the middle of June if one wants to avoid rains on
the outward journey. For fear of cold and snow, pilgrims generally
begin to 'start from the end of June. There is nothing to be feared
from snow on the pass. As a matter of fact some adventurous youths
leave Almora in the last week of May. The times of clearing of
other passes will be given in the description of the routes
concerned. But those who start before the setting in of the monsoon
would feel the oppressive heat and scarcity of water on the way.
They may not get tea a t many places where they would get
at other times. At Almora also there would be scarcity of water
until heavy rains set in.
Tim TAKEN FOR THE JOURNEY
The journey from Almora to Manasarovar and to do the
Parikrama of Kailas including a hurried visit to the famous Khochar
Monastery and back to Almora takes about 50 days including
halting days at Dharchula, Garbyang, and Taklakot. If one wants
to visit Gyanima Mandi and Tirthapuri, i t will take 3 days more
and if one wants to do the parikrama of the Manasarovar also, i t
will take 2 days more at the most. About 10 days can be saved
in the journey if arrangements for transport are made beforehand
at Almora, Dharchula, Garbyang, and Taklakot.
J
MAILS OR DAK
Garbyang is the last village and last Post Office in the Indian
territory on the route to Kailas via Lipu Lekh pass. So before
proceediilg beyond Garbyang, pilgrims should give instructions to the
Post Master to deposit their mails in the Post Office or make arrange-
ments through Thakur Jaman Sirigh Bishan Singh Garbyal Brothers
for delivery a t Taklakot. They reilder great service to the pilgrims
in this directinn. If a Post Office could be opened at Taklakot
with at least a tri-weekly delivery and despatch, it would be of great
service both to merchants and pilgrims. The Post Office would
be self maiutained.
I PROVISIONS
All sorts of foodstuffs are available everywhere on the route from
Almora td Garbyang excepting for a day a t Malpa, which is between
Jipti and Garbyang. Articles of special liking just as basmati rice,
suji (semolina), besan, sage, tinned fruits, bari, papar, etc. may be taken
from Almora. Berinag is the last place where one can get sweets
on the way. From Berinag to Dharchula plantains can be had in
abundance. Mangoes cad be had at Bade-chhina, Sera-ghat, Thal,
and Dharchula in season (July and August) while going to Kailas
196 KAI L AS - MA N A S A R OV A R
or on the return journey. Guavas can be had at Dharchula and
apples and pears at Sirkha on the return journey. Oranges can be
had at Dharchula, Balvakot, Jauljibi, Garjiya, Askot, ~i bi ha t , and
Thal from the middle of October up t o the end of November. Good
cow-ghee can be had either from Dharchula or from Khela at
the rate of 4 rupees per seer. Cabbage, radish, and a few other leafy
vegetables are available a t Garbyang on the return journey, and
potatoes can be had throughout from Almora to Garbyang.
Cucumber (kakri) is available f r oh Almora upwards up to Sirkha,
Occasionally green chillies, turnips, radish (fresh or dried), inferior
variety of apricots (chullu), and potatoes are put up for sale in
Taklakot Mandi. From Taklakot to Kardung, green peascanbe obtained
in plenty. Pilgrims will do well t o take the necessary provisions from
Garbyang for the outward journey t o Kailas and back to Garbyang,
i.e. for about 25 days. The following are the current rates of food-
stuffs both a t Garbyang and Taklakot.
Rice 1 seer per rupee
Wheat flour 1 ,, , I I )
Masoor dal 1 ,, , I I )
Mash dal 1 ,, I ) I I
Barley sattu 1 ,, I ) , I
Pea sattu 1 ,, , , , I
Sugar or misri Q ,, I # ,,
Raisins a , , , , ,,
Butter 4 I I ) I
Spices 9 1 , I I I
GUY (Jaggery) Rs. I* to 34 per
bheli (one lump) or 1 to 2$ seers.
Candles, cigarettes, match boxes,
utensils, statignery, plece-
goods, etc. can also be had.
There is a mandi of the Bhotias of Johar and Darma Yarganas
a t Tarchhen where foodstuffs and other articles ape sold. Those
who intend going t o Gyanima Mandi direct f r o9 Taklakot can as
well get all articles from Gyanima which is the biggest rnandi in
Western Tibet. Those who go on a pavihranta of Manasarovar will
come across the Thokar Mandi, situated on her southern shores.
Demo (Tibetan cow), goat, or sheep-milk, butter, and chkt.urlE'(Tibetan
cheese) can be purchased from shepherdsahere and there beyond
Taklakot.
C
Generally pilgrims prepare a sweet called guy-papari or paqeera
for using i t as a ready-made tiffin in the mornin5 on the way, in the
evening as soon as one reaches the staging place, or at any other
time. Wheat-flour is fried in ghee; and gur or sugar, resins, and
mpra are added t o it. It remains in good conditiot~ even for two or
three months. This may he prepared at Khela, where one can get
good ghee and flour cheaper ; and preserve it in a tin.
At the time
of s t ar t i ~g for the day's march one should take out a small quantity
of it in a bag for use on the way. Pilgrims are expected t o distri-
bute this and other eatables to co-pilgrims and servants especially
on the Lipu Lekh pass, Gurla la, Manasarovar, Gouri-kund, and other
places.
FUEL
From Almora to Garbyang, fuel is available in all shops. From
Garbyang up to Kalapani, the servant is expected to bring fuel from
the jungle ; and a t Taklakot, one has to buy i t from the Indian
merchants at the rate of one anna per seer. I n Tibet there is no
good fuel excepting dawza (a kind of juniper or furze which burns
even when green but gives out so much of smoke that i t makes
one's eyes smart), dried yak-dung, the fallings of sheep and goat,
and champa-estrella (pang). Tibetans always keep bellows for kindling
and flint for making fire. When a servant is engaged he would
bring green fuel or collect dry dung wherever available, for heating
water. For cooking purposes, one shall have to carry a stove,
kerosene oil, etc.
CURRENCY
hll Indian coins and currency notes are passable up to Taklakot ;
but beyond that, Indian rupees and the Tibetan coins, tongas only
are in vogue in money transactions. Up to 1942 the rate of exchange
of th'e tongas was 8 per rupee. But the present rate of exchange
is 4 ; even then they are not available. So, pilgrims should take
sufficient Indian change with them which is freely exchangeable
(see p. 78).
GENERAL, AILMENTS ON THE WAY
Dysentery, diarrhoea, cold, cough, fatigue, and feverishiless due
to. tiresome ascents and descents, and reeling sensation or headache
during high ascents are the general ailments on the way. While
, getting ,up very steep ascents, not only very weak persons but
very stout persons also may experience palpitation and suffocation ;
people of billious temperament may feel nausea or vomiting
sensation, in which cases, some sour articles like tamarind, dried
mango-pieces, citric acid, or cafiaspirin may conveiliently be used
with advantage ; akld the ascent should be done slowly.
One may take tea in the morning and in the evening since i t would
keep the body warm, nlid, would renlove the exhaustion of the day's
journey. Hot water bat11 may be used during nights for chil-
198 KA I L A S - MANAS AROVAR
blains (swelling of fingers in cold regions). When fingers, hands,
or feet are very badly benumbed or frozen, they should never be
basked on fire, for they ache much more. They should be' warmed
slowly by being placed in arm-pits or knee-pits. In the case of
aching limbs, one may either take cafiaspirin or give a hot salt-
water bath to the feet. Pilgrims should be careful about their diet
during the journey.
While travelling on altitudes above 15,000 feet, some people bleed
through nose and mouth due t o high blood pressure and rarified
air. They should not get worried over this. By sprinkling cold
water on the nose and drinking a cup of cold water they will get the
necessary relief. When one travels without goggles on ice, or with
snows in the front, eyes may be affected and by night they may
become red and swollen and pain very badly. I n such cases boric
compress may be applied or boric solution (one pinch of boric powder
in one ounce of water) may be put in the eyes.
Many people believe that nausea, headache, deep breathing, etc.
that one gets while crossing the passes is due to the inhaling of the
air coming from poisonous flowers and drugs ; this is a wrong
notion ; the radied atmosphere at higher altitudes is the real cause.
While travelling in a bus from Haldwani or Kathgodam, people of
billious temperament would begin to vomit during ascents and
descents. Such people should occupy the front se3t (by payin):
an extra amount of a rupee), for this would reduce the
nauseating tendency. I n such cases, one may walk the distance
to Almora by the short cut.
CHAPTER 11
1 PRASADS
KAILAS : (1) A variety of scented creeper called Kang-Po or Kailas-
dht@ grows round Kailas in the midst of pebbles, at a height of
16,000 to 17,000 feet. It is dried and used as an incense. It is
believed that this herbal incense grows only round about Kailas
and nowhere else. The author too could not find this herb anywhere
else excepting in the upper part of the Namreldi valley in
small quantities. (2) A sort of white substance called ku-sa in Tibetan
(see p. 50) brought from the northern foot of Kailas by the monks
of Dira-phuk Gompa and is taken by the pilgrims as Kailas-vibhuti.
This too can be bought from Dira-phuk and Zuthul-phuk Gompas.
(3) Water from any side of the Kailas Peak. (4) Water from
Gouri-kund. (5) Water from Tso Kapala or Kapali Sar. (6) Earth
from Kapali Sar (sa-nga). (7) The white substance near the hot springs
at Tirthapuri, taken as Bhasmasura's bhasma. (8) The yellow ochre
from the Sindura hill at Tirthapuri is taken as Devi's prasad.
MANASAROVAR : (1) Water from Manasarovar. (2) Smooth pebbles
of various shapes and colours are picked up from any shore,
either for purposes of puja or for keeping them in amulets or talisman-
caskets. (3) A sort of violet sand named chema-nenga, which consists
of particles of five colours, red, black, yellow, white, and green
is picked up from the east coast, where i t is found in thin layers over
the ordinary white sand for a distance of about three miles only.
It is, believed by Tibetans to contain particles of gold, silver,
durquoise, coral, and iron. A few grains of it are eaten as prasad. This
sand is much heavier than the ordinary sand and as such ordinary
sand particles can be husked but of this very easily. This can
be had only by those who do the round of the Manas. (4) A variety
of scented artemesia (davanam) plant grows all round Manasarovar.
It is called Tso-Po (Lake-incense) and i t grows everywhere up t o an
altitude of 10,000 feet. (5) Pang-Po is another herbal root-incense
which grows a little to the east of Manas and can be had in small
quantities at Thugolho. It is called mas; by Bhotias. (6) Small
and big. fishes abound in the Lake, which when beaten by high
dashing waves, die and are drifted to the shores and stranded. These
dead fish are picked up and dried in the sun and are taken by the
pilgrims as prasad of the Holy Lake. They are preserved carefully,
or are used as incense, which is said to have the efficacy of dispel-
ling evil spirits, of kffacing the evil influence of planets, and of curing
various cattle diseases. Dried fish and herbal incense are sold by
the monks in the monasteries, but nobody kills the fish in the
Lake.
200 KAI L AS - MANAS AROVAR
REACTIONS OF THE RAILAS-MANAS ON WESTERN MINDS
It will not be out of place if a few lines are quoted here from the
"Trans-Himalaya " of Dr. Sven Hedin, giving the reactions of
these two Holy places on his mind.
" The stranger also approaches Kang-rimpoche with a feeling of
awe. It is incomparably the most famous mountain in the world.
Mount Everest and Mount Blanc cannot vie with it.
"Manasarovar is the abode of sanctity and of peace. . . . . .No
language on earth contains words forcible enough to describe the
view from i t over the lake.. . . . . . . I, too, was the victim of an
illusion which almost made me catch a t the parapet for support. I
wondered whether i t was a fit of giddiness. . . . . .A dream-picture
in the most ethereal transitory tones floats before us. We seem
t o stand on a promontory jetting out into space which yawns around
us and in front.. . . . . I should have liked to remain a while under
ik, enchantment.. . . . .I enjoy the voyage to the full, for nothing
I remember in my long wanderings in Asia can compare with the
overpowering beauty of this nocturnal sail. . . . . .Two flocks of geese
are swimming on the water producing diverging ripples. All is
so indescribably quiet ; so ethereal, transparent and transitory, so
subtile and sensitive, that I scarcely dare breathe. Never has a
church service, a wedding march, a hymn of victory, or a funeral
made a more powerful impression on me. . . . . . Wonde$ul, attractive,
enchanting lake ! Theme of story and legend, playgroundb of
storms and changes of colour, apple of the eye of gods and men, goal
of weary, yearning pilgrims, holiest of the holiest of the lake?, are
thou, Tso-mavang, lake of all lakes. Navel of old Asia, where f o u t
of the most famous rivers of the world, the Brahmaputra, the Illd~s,
the Sutlej and the Ganges, rise among gigantic peaks. . . . . .Maria-
sarovar is the pearl of all the lakes of the world. Hoary with age
when the books of the Veda were written. . . . . .Oh! wbat a wonderful
lake i t was I I have no words to describe it. To my dying day
I shall never forget it, and even now is in my nifnd as a legend, a
poem and a' song. Nothing that I can recall through all my
wanderings can compare with the overwhelming beauty of this night
journey. It was like listening to the silent and mighty throbs of the I
heart of Nature. . . . . .It seemed as though the landscape, ever-
changing as the hours creep slowly by, were unreal ; as th6ugh it no
longer belonged to this earth, but lay on the borders of the world
beyond, nearer to Heaven, tbe region of dreams and ~hantasies,
of hopes and longings, a mysterious fairy land, lather than to this
earth of men and sinners, of worldliness and vanity. . . . . . I threw
a farewell glance a t Tso-mavang, and experienced a feeling of
11
bereavement at the thought that I must now leave its shores.
LET US TO THE DIVINE LAKE 20 1
August Gansser writes, " The fundamental idea of Asiatic
Religions is embodied in one of the most significant temples I had ever
seen, a sun-lit rock and ice ! It s remarkable structure and peculiar
harmony of its shape, justify my speaking of Kailas as the most
sacred mountain in the world. . . . . .the holiest mountain in the world
and the Sublime Throne of the Gods. "'
"The unrivalled position of this unique mountain of the shape of
Shiva's lingam has made i t the holiest throne of the gods of the great
Asiatic religions. . . . . .The Kailas, not only is the holiest mountain for
several hundred millioii Buddhists and Hindus, but is also geologi-
cally a unique feature. It seems t o represent the highest tertiary
conglomeratic series of our globe, still in the position of deposition." a
LET US TO THE DIVINE LAKE
Return journey should be done, taking proper rest wherever
needed, following the route of the onward journey. As this
pilgrimage cannot be undertaken easily, or often, one should spend
some days leisurely in quiet meditation, either a t Kailas or prefer-
ably on the shores of Manasarovar, wherefrom one can enjoy the
view of the Holy. Kailas and a sacred dip in the Manas. Whether
one be a pilgrim or a tourist, one should not fail to derive full benefit
from these holy and hallowed places by staying there atleast for a few
days, and no!: run on in undue haste. Pilgrims should make
it a point t o devote sometime daily for peaceful meditation and
contemplation by the side of the azure-blue surface of the charming
Lake. Forgetting the idea of time and space for a while, just ponder
over the questions-Whence this Boat of our Life- Journey has started
sailing ? Where It is now ? Whither It is bound ? What is the aim
of this Journey ? What is Its Goal ? and, What is the relation
between this Boat and its Projector ?
,
Anold Heim and A. Ganaser, ?The Throne of the Gods."
a Arnold Heiln and A. Gamer, "Central Himalaya, Qeological obaervetione of swim
expoditim 1836."
EPILOGUE
One can spend days and nights together like so many minutes,
watching the weird grandeur, splendour, and majesty of the sacred
Peak of Kailas without being tired, or in peaceful meditation and
contemplation, by the side of the turquoise-blue surface of the charming
Lake Manasarovar, lulled by her awe-inspiring solemnity. One
breathes more happily and with greater ease ; one feels real pleasure
in life, and yearns t o remain sailing indefinitely on the fascinating
blue depths and the sacred waves. Discoveries in the domain of
geology or geography of the Mount Kailas or study of the hydro-
graphic relation of this unique Lake t o lakes similarly situated in
other parts of the world are no doubt extremely pleasant pastimes
and many be attempted by a person of an average intellectual calibre ;
but the inner joy which one feels when one is face to face with an
object of supernatural beauty and eternal charm, such as is
presented by this Summit under a cupola of perpetual snow, where,
according t o Hindu traditions, Shiva (the Universal Spirit) abides
permanently with His Divine Consort Parvati (the personification
of Prakriti or Nature) and where, in terms of the Tibetan scriptures,
the Buddha resides with his hierarchy of 500 Bodhisattvas, and the
tutelary deity Demchhog (Supreme Bliss) with His Divine Consort
Dorje-Phangmo (the Absolute Void), may be better described
by one, more gifted poetically and aesthetically disposed than
the author. How could Kailas and Manasarovar Be the obbcts
of Divine honour from two religions so different as Hinduism and
Buddhism, unless i t be t hat their overpowering beauty and charm
have not only so appealed t o but made an indelible impressibn on
the human mind, t hat they seemed to belong rather t o heaven than
to earth ! Even the first view from the Gurla pass or from the hills
on the shore is simply marvellous and breath-taking and causes one
t o burst into tears of joy a t the magnificent landscape ; a more
intimate association undoubtedly throws one into mysti6 trances, when,
one feels nearer the Divine Presence than a t anyoother time. The
author feels t hat if he has been able t o stimulate interest in any of
his readers to undertake this very educative and wholesome journey
t o this abode of Bliss (Kailas and Manasarovar) in the Begion of
Snows (Himalayas) and t o feel that inner joy which is Surely to be
felt by every mortal, like himself, his labour will have been amply
rewarded. Besides, i f some devotee, having been inspired by the August
Presence, himself can hand over the Torch of ~llumination to
his fellow-brothers, the gratifying reflection of having originated and
perpetuated this chain of inspiration will fill the author with supreme
satisfaction--a natural and legitimate result of the fulfilmemt of
noble and self-imposed mission of serving humanity.
OM.!
APPENDICES
APPENDIX I
GL(X3SARY OF TIBETAN AND OTHER WORDS
[H-Hindi ; $-Sanskrit ; K-Kumaon ; Bh-Bhotia ; and the
rest are all Tibetan words.]
Bhot (H)-Indian Borderland of North Almora, North Garhwal,
North Tehri, etc.
Bhotia (H)-An inhabitant of Bhot.
Bodhisattva (S)-One who is qualified t o attain Buddhahood or Nir-
vana, but has delayed it and has remained in this world t o help the
striving human beings by preaching the Law.
Bot, Bod, or Bod-yul-Tibet.
Chakarma-Gull.
Chakta-Matchbox.
Chak-tak-Chain.
Cham-How many ; madam.
Chamba or Champa-Maitreya.
Cham-kushok-Madam or mem-sahiba.
Champa-Saftu or parched barley powder.
Chatti (K)-A staging place on the pilgrim-route t o Badrinath
and ~ashuhat i nat h.
Chema-Sand.
Chema-kara-Sugar.
he ma-nenga-~ive coloured sands of Manasarovar (see p. 199).
Chen-khang-A small image-hall where $ujas are performed regularly,
daily morning and evening.
Chenresig or Chenrezig-Avalokiteshvara.
Chhagna-dorje-Vajra-pani.
Chhak- ~hhal - ~an~ or Changja-gang-A place, wherefrom prostration-
salutation is rhade t o any holy place.
Chham-Solitary confinement for a fixed period for doing meditation
and pujas.
Chhang,A kind of light beer made by fermenting barley.
Chhang-rin-present or bakshish (literally price of chhang).
Chhasu-Tax-collector.
Chheme-Butter lamp.
Chhen or Chhe-Big.
Chhen-Night.
Chherba-Rain.
Chhongra-Mart or ma%&.
Chhopa-Images made of sattu and blltter used in talztrik rites.
206 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
Chhorten-A sort of monument, stupa, or chaitya.
Chhu-Water, river, rivulet, or stream.
Chhu-mar-Ghee or clarified butter.
Chhura-Cheese.
Cho-Tibetan great antelope (Pantholops Antelope).
Chomo-Nun.
Chong-Onion ; any commodity for sale.
Cho-nga-Full moon day.
Chung-Small .
Daba-Ordinary sadhzc or monk.
Dalai Lama-Ocean Guru, the Sovereign political head of Tibet,
believed t o be the incarnation of Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara.
Dama-A sort of thorny juniper bush, which is used as fuel and which
burns even when green, Tibetan furze.
Damaru (S)-A vibrant (double) hand-drum.
Dang-Yesterday.
Dazang-The managing body of a monastery.
De-Rice.
Demchhok or Demchhog-The presiding deity of Kailas.
Demo-Tibetan cow.
Dhak-Nepalese Rupee.
Dhara (H)-A water tap.
Dhura (H)-Pass.
l
Diring-Today.
Do-Stone. I
Dok-pa-Dweller of a black tent or shepherd.
Dong-A black tent of a shepherd.
Donkhang-Dharmashala or a freeorest house.
Dorje-Vajra or diamond.
Dorje-Phagmo-Vajra-Varahi.
Du-Barley .
Duk-Yes or there is.
Duk-Bhutan State.
Duk-pa-A person belonging to Bhutan State.
Durn-Chinese brick-tea. o
Duvang-General image-hall.
Gad (K)-A hill stream or rivulet.
0
Gangri-Glacier or Kailas.
Gar-pon-Officer of Gar or Gartok, Viceroy of Western Tibet.
Go-Head.
Goa-Tibetan gazelle.
Gokpa-Garlic.
Gompa or Gonpa-Buddhist monastery or lamasery.
A P P E N D I X I
Gopa or Goba-Village headman.
Gormo-Indian Rupee.
Gur (H)- Jaggery.
Gutang-Nepalese Mohar.
Gya-gar-White plain or India.
Gya-nak-Black plain or China.
Gyalpo-Raja, chief, or king.
Havan (S)-Offerings t o the fire.
Hun or Hundesh (Bh)--Tibet.
Huniya (Bh)-Tibetan.
Ja-Tea.
Jamb-yang-Manju-ghosh.
Ja-ril-A ball of chinese tea.
Jav-Half a Tanga.
Jhabbu-Crossbreed of a Tibetan bull and an Indian cow.
Jilab-Prasad, something taken as a memento either from a holy
person or place.
Jinbu or Jimbu-Tibetan onion leaves.
Joo-Salutation or thanks.
Rang-ri4now-mountain, glacier, or Kailas.
Kangri Karchhak-Kailas Purana.
Kang Rinpochhe- Jewel of Snows or IIoly Kailas.
Kanji~r-Translation of Buddha's sayings and teachings in 108 volumes
(see p. 69).
Kara--Sugar-candy.
Khamj am-Salutation.
Khampa-A Tibetan domiciled in India or a native of Kham (a
province in Eastern Tibet).
Khar-Fort .
Khatak-Loosely woven gauze-like white linen used as a garland
in Tibet, a ceretnoliial scarf.
Khangba-House.
Khi-D6g. ,
Khir-Bring.
Kiyang of Kyang-Wild horse or ass.
Kong-High, up, or senior ; rate.
Kora-Circumamhulation.
Korlo-~rayer:cylil;der or prayer-mill.
Kunchhok-sum-ny God ; an oath.
Kund (H)-A trough, tub: or tank either artificial or natural.
Kur-Tent.
208 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
Kushok-Mister, shreeman, or saheb.
La-Pass.
Labrang-General Managing Body of a monastery, usually deputed
by a bigger monastery in Central or Eastern Tibet to its branch
in Western Tibet.
Labu-Turnip.
Lam-Path.
Lama-Buddhist monk of higher order, Guru or high priest, or spiritual
teacher.
Langak Tso-Rakshas Tal.
Langchen Khambab-The river comingout of the mouth of an elephant-
Sutlej.
Laptche-A heap of stones generally raised at the top of mountains,
at the end of ascents, wherefrom some holy place is seen cons-
picuously, or at the top of passes, or on the way to any holy
place representing the deity of that place, all amounting to clear
the way of stones. Streamers are hung on them.
Lha-Devata or deity.
Lha-khang-Deity-house or image-hall.
Lham-Tibetan boots coming up to the knees.
Lharchi or Lharche-Musk.
Le-Camping ground with walled enclosures.
Lo-Belt of a horse.
Luk-Sheep.
Lung-Wind.
Lung, Lungba, Lungma, or Lungva-Valley.
Maidan (H)-Plain.
Mak-pon or Magpon-Military Officer or Patwari.
Mandal-Cairn
or stones piled one over another like a pillar; a
yantra (see footnote on p. 58).
Mandi (H)-Market or mart.
Mani-The mantra Om ma ni pa dme hum, or jewel.
Mani-cylinder-Cylinder in which slips of mani-mantra are kept.
Mani-stone--Stone on which mani is inscribed or embossed9
Mani-wall-Wall on which mani-stones are kept.
Mantra (S)-Mystic formula (see footnote on p. 61).
Mapcha Khambab-The river coming out of mouth of a peacock-
Karnali.
Map chhu-Karnali.
Mapham-The Unconquerable Manasarovar.
Mar-Butter.
Marku-Oil.
Mathova-Manasarovar.
Mavang-Manasarovar.
~ a ~ u r l ~ r e v a s s e or fissure.
Me-Fire ; no. I
Men-Medicine.
Mi-Man.
Mi-duk-No or there is not.
Namkang-New moon day.
Naning-Last year.
Naza-Disease.
Nechen-Place of pilgrimage or a tirtha.
Nerpa or Nerba-Steward or secretary.
Ngangba-Swan.
Ngari-Western Tibet.
Ngato-Tomorrow.
Ngima-Day or sun.
Ngyul-Silver or money.
Nirbishi (K)-A variety of aconite.
Nirvana (S)-Salvation.
Num-nak-Mustard oil.
Nya-Fish.
Nyakor-Pilgrim.
Nyan-Great Tibetan sheep (Ovis Ammon).
Nyima-Day, sun, or sunlight.
Odyar (K)-Cave.
Oma-Milk.
I
Pa-Wala.
Padav (H) -Staging-place.
Palden-Shree.
Pan-cliakki (H)-hater-mill.
Panchhen Lama or Penchhen Lama--Spiritual head of Tibet, believed
to be the incarnation of the Bodhisattva Amitabha Buddha.
Par-Photo.
Pal-ikrama (S)-Circumambulation.
Phagbe--#heat flour.
Phing-Tibetan vermicelli made of pea flour.
Phuk-Cave.
Phuldo-Crude Ti6etan soda or baked sevw-tsa.
Po-Incense.
Po or Poyul-Tibet. a
Pombo-Officer.
Porno-Woman ; female ; daugk.ter.
210 P A I L A S - MA N A S A R OV A R
Prasad (S)-Something taken from a Holy place or person, charged
with spiritual vibrations as a sacred memento or remembrance.
Puja (S)-Worship. c
Purana (S)-A book of ancient Indian history and mythology.
Puram-Gzrr or jaggery.
\
Ra-Goat.
Re-Cotton cloth ; 'yes sir'.
Ri-Mountain.
Ring-Price.
Rinpochhe- Jewel ; holy ; holiness.
Sa or Za-Day of the week.
Sadhu (S)-A Hindu ascetic or holy man.
Sakya-Thubha-Sakya-Muni or Buddha.
Sangpo or Sampo-Brahmaputra.
Sapta-Map.
Sarai (H)-Dharmashala.
Sattu (H)-Parched barley powder.
Senge Khambab-The river coming out of the mouth of a lion-
Indus.
Ser-Gold or yellow.
Seru-tsa-A kind of crude soda (unbaked).

Shapje-Footprint.
Shing-Tree ; fuel ; wood ; stick.
Shok-Come on. O
Shung-chhong-Government Trader.
Shya-Meat.
Shyo-Curds.
Siddha (S)-One who has attained high psychic and supernatural
powers.
Sola-Charcoal.
Sug-Pain.
E
Ta-Horse.
Ta-lo-Horse-year ; this year. a (I
Tamchok Khambab-The river coming out of the moutheof a horse.-
Brahmaputra.
Tamo-Cold.
Tanjur-Translation of all shqstras (see p. 69).
Tanga or Tanka-Tibetan silver coin, equivalent tt, four annas.
Tantrik (S)-Mystic.
Tantrism (S)-Mystic cult.
Tara-Buttermilk.
APPENDIX I 211
Tara (S)-A female deity, common both to Hindus and Buddhists.
Tarchema-Chook or a sour fruit.
Tarchop-Flags and festoons especially of five colours : white, red,
green, yellow, and blue.
Tasam or Tarzam-Transport or Post Stage Officer.
Tasam-High road.
Te-Mule.
Thanga-Plateau or maidan.
Thanka-A Tibetan banner painting especially of Buddhistic deities,
saints, yantras, etc.
Thukpa-A semi-liquid dish made of sattzc, cheese, and meat.
Thu-A preparation made of mixing cheese with gzcr and butter.
Thuma-An aphrodesiac or rejuvenating herbal root.
Ti (Bh)-Water.
Tima-Cream.
Tisi-Kailas.
To--Stone.
Trama-Pea.
Tsa-Sal t .
Tsabo-Hot.
Tsampa or tsamba-Sattu.
Tsangpo-Big river; commonly used for the Brahmaputra in Central
Tibet.
~s d - ~a k e .
Tuchhe-chhe-Thanks.
Tugu-Son,; boy.
Tulku-Avatar or incarnation.
Tulku lama-Incarnation Lama.
Tumo-Heat .
Udyar (H)--Same as odyar, cave.
Urko Kong-Vikeroy Senior.
Urko Yok-Viceroy Junior.
Vihara "(s) -University or monastery.
Y ak-Tibetan bull.
Yambu-Nepal.
Yankti (Bh)-Riqer.
Yantra (S)-Mystic circle geometrically subdivided into circles and
squares.
Yok-Lower or junior.
21 2 KA I L A S -- MA N A S A R OV A R
Yul-Village.
Yung-chhong-Government Trader or State Merchant.
Zaharmora (H)--Serpentine.
Zong or Zongpon-Governor ; Governor's residential building' ; fort.
.
NUMERALS
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Chik NY~ Sum
Shi Nga Tug Dun G Y ~
9 10 20 30 40
Gu Chu Nyi-shu Sum-chu Ship-chu
100 200 300 1,000
Gyethamba Nyi-gya Sum-gya Tong
*
10,000 1,00,000 10,00,000 1 ,oo,oo,ooo
Thi Bum
Chhiva c S ~ Y ~ P
9
Pheka or chheka
APPENDIX I1
" SYMBOLISM IN TIBETAN BUDDHISM1
YIDAM ( f ~ , ) AND YAB-YUM POSE ( s?-rgFi
)
EVERY Buddhist Sect in Tibet, every gompa (monastery) and every
lama (Tibetan high monk) has a Yidam (Ishta-devata), tutelary deity,
or god-protector of its or his own. The Yidam of a lama and t hat
of the sect or moiiastery t o which he belongs need not necessarily be
the same. It is only a monk t hat can prioptiate or worship the Yidam
directly, the householder (grihastha) cannot do so but through a monk.
Dolma (Tara) is the only Yidam of the higher order who can be worshi-
pped by the layman.
The Yidam is almost invariably represented in Yab-Yum Mudra
(lit. father-mother pose). The fundamental principle of the Yoga
System, namely the union of the individual soul with the Universal
Spirit or the union of the Spirit with matter is symbolically repre-
sented by the Tibetan mystics as Yab-Yztm posture. Yab represents
primeval male, Pzrruslza, Divinity, Shiva, Vajra-dlzntu, or the subject.
Yum represents primordial female (or producing) principal, Prakriti
(matter), Shakti, Kali Garbka-dhatu, or object. So the Yab-Yum
pose represents divine ecstacy or the spiritual comniunion with the
Most High. As a matter of fact Yidam is considered by Tibetans
to be more efficacious if worshipped with his Shakti in Yab-Yum
pme. This posture is also called Vajva-rn~dra.~
This Yab-Yztm mudra is geometrically represented in ManSaZas
or Yu,ztras by two triangles--one resting on its base and the other
resting on its apex, mutually" interlocked as shown below.
I
Thie wen originally pkbliehed in the 'Journal of the United Provinoea Historical
Society', Vol. XVIII (July-Ilecember 1945).
2 In tho esoteric doctrine Vajra is the eymbol of Lingo.
214 KAI I . , A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
The first represents Yoni, Prakriti, imperfection, the exoteric
principle, or objectivity, and the second represents Linga, Purusha,
perfection, the esoteric principle, or subjectivity. subjectivity
and objectivity, acting and reacting upon each other, produce this
universe of diversity and many-ness. This is the underlaying princi-
ple for representing the Brahmanda Charkra or the Wheel of Universe
by two interlocked triangles. Various forces of the Mula-prakriti
or Maha-Kali have been represented as different Yums or Matirkas
of different Yabs. Just as the Hindu, whether male or female, has not
got even the least idea of sex or sensuous feeling while worshipping
the Linga or phallus of Shiva, so a Tibetan, when he or she does the
worship of the Yidam, in Yab-Yum pose.
CHHAM
Lamas of higher order usually retire to a solitary place, almost
invariably to a cave for a month or two in a year for the worship of
their Yidam. This kind of retirement either for a short time or for
a long period is called chham in Tibetan. The author was in chham
for a month in Pzcshya 1945, with the tulku lama (avatari or incar-
nation lama) Jayan Chhojur, popularly
known as Nav-Kushok of
the Simbiling Gompa, in a cave in Kailas-Manasa Region.
At the commencement of the chham the lama do$s di gbandea
of the cave or the place where he intends staying for the purpose.
Digbandhana (lit. restraining of the quarters) is a tantrik rite by which
he restricts all evil spirits and evil influences coming from all qu9rters
t 6 throw obstacles in his sadhana (spiritual practices). During the
period of chham, the lama would neither go out of the cave even for
attending the calls of nature, nor would he speak with any outsider
but for a servant or a monk-disciple, who would be putting up in a
separate chamber of the same cave, for cooking his. food and for
rendering any other service, nor any outsider is allowed to enter the
cave. Almost the whole of the day, from 4 a.m. to 9 p.m. is spent
in repeating the mantra of the Yidam a number of times. During the
period of chham the mantra of the Yidam is repeated 50,000 times,
a lakh, a million times, or any number that he has fixe4 tordo. At
the completion of the fixed number or fixed time, purnahuti (or final
fire-oblations) are offered with elaborate rites which may.take four
to five hours. As in other rites, sattu and butter images (m)
of a particular type are made,for the occasion. The chhopas made
for each Yidam vary in shape, size, and numbef, though some are
common. Splinters of wood of a particular length, clarified butter,
durva (a kind of grass), barley, wheat, rice, peas, ti1 seeds, mustaid
seeds, cooked rice, etc. are used for ahutis.
A P P E N D I X 1 1 215
Tibetans believe that if chham is well observed for a sufficiently
long period, the Yi d a m would manifest himself to the devotee and
would letid him to the Highest Blissful State. It may be noted here
that according to Tibetan Buddhists, Nirvana or the highest state of
perfection is not extinction of the Self, but blowing out the flame of
selfishness and longings'and the attainment of the Highest Blissful
State. Chham is also observed, oftentimes, for the fulfilment of
some desire of the observer himself or of his devotee.
MANDALA
Every Yi d a m has got a separate mandala which is used oilly in the
worship of that particular deity. A mandala or yantra is a mystic
circle geometrically subdivided into circles, squares, or chords in
which are painted some symbols, deities and bijaksharas. When
the Yi dams are worshipped in the gompas, their respective mandalas
are elaborately prepared with finely powdered stone dyed in various
colours. They are drawn in relief with minute details, wonderful
precision, execution, and great skill. The author witnessed four
such mandalas or yantras in the Simbiling Monastery of Taklakot
in Kailas-Manasarovar Region, where he stayed as an inmate for
some time in 1936-37 and 1943-44. The diameter of the yantvas
was 4 to 5 feet. For the portable use of individuals during clzhanz,
the" nzandalas ' of different Yi dams are painted on banners and
planks of wood.
It is said that Tibetan lama-teachers took these Yi dams from
Bharitavarsha to Tibet ; so the names of the lamas who had actually
invoked or took thein to Tibet jlre given both in paintings and in
books written about the Yidanz, There are a number of Yi dams in
Tibetan Buddhism like Demchhog, Sangdul (presiding deity of Gurla
Mandhata), Jigje, Kunrig, etc. The author proposes to give from
time to time the description of a number of these tutelary and other
deities of Tibetall pantheon which may throw some light on the
~ndeciphered iconography of India.
.i(l ,
DEMCHHOG or DHARMAPALA1
Demchhok or Demchhog is the presiding deity of the Holy Mount
Kailas according to Tibetail mythology and scriptures. He is also
the presiding deity of two more mounts, (1) Lapchi on Nepal borders
L
1 "Shamvara wauan A~ur a (demon) in Tnd inn mythology, oppo~od toIndra, literally aham meens
bli~n, end vara means ucresning. M'hilc translntlng the liarno in Tibetan, ahamcam became
' Bl i ~s Excellent' (Skt. aura nl ~ o meaning excrllrnt) amtl thiis Slinmvi~ra in placo of tho demon
that witholds hliss, hnmmn tho dcl"ty of Supremo l3lis.s nnd was indentified with Shive, pre-
siding deity of Kailas". Dr. Vasudev~ Saran Agrnwala.
and (2) Chari, 200 miles east of Lhasa.
The iconographic form of
Demchhog is highly
interesting as understood in the light of the
explanation which Tibetan mystics
offer for the many %tributes
associated with him. According t o them, Demchhog represents
Supreme Bliss, as he is of the rank of the Buddha.
Demchhog has four faces-the middle one is blue, the right one is
white, the left green, and the back one is red. They represent the
four-fold sets of ideas like four elements-earth, water, fire, and air ;
four virtues--compassion, affection, love, and impartiality ; and so
on. Each face has three eyes which symbolizes t hat he knows the
time past, present, and future, t hat the three worlds are under his
vision, and so on.
Each of his heads is adorned with a crown of five skulls represent-
ing the five-fold wisdom. The faces frown and the teeth are set
showing t hat all vices are overcome by him. On each head the hair
is tied in a knot and each skull in the crown of head is adorned with
a pearl or gem, showing t hat merit has been acquired t o the fullest
degree. The wheel of bone over the head is symbolic of meditation.
The ear-rings symbolize fortitude ; necklace charity ; bracelets
chastity ; andgirdle symbolizes energy. His blue body is the symbol
of never changing form.
Demchhok has twelve hands which represent the knowledge of the
twelve causes of the round of life (avidya, samskara, vijn$na, namar~pa,
shadayatana, sparsa, vedana, trishna, upadana, bhava, jati, and gara-
marana). The first pair of upper hands holds dorje (vajra)representing
the knowledge and tilbzt (bell) the method. To show that they are
ever in union, the two hands clasp the Shahti. The second set
of two hands holds a raw elephant-bide which they are tearing asun-
der. Elephant-hide is the symbol ofinescience. The third right hand
holds a damaru proclaiming joyous tidings ; the fourth right hand
brandishes a tari (battle axe) with which he cuts off the ties of births
and deaths ; the fifth right hand holds a di (dagger) to show that
the six sins of pride etc. are cut off; and the sixth right hand grasps a
khatmn (trishula) showing t hat the root passions of kama, hrodha,
and lobha are controlled.
The third left hand holds a khatvanga (a staff s~rmo~unt ed by a 4
dovje and amrita-kalasha), a sign of Supreme Bliss; the fourth left hand
holds a blood-filled lupala (human skull) signifying t hat %ll ideas,
material as well as non-material, are done away with; from the fifth
left hand dangles a thagpa (npose) which denotes knowledge that
grasps the nature of sentient beings ; and in the gixth left hand is the
I Thie ie the expoeition given to the author by tho i nwneti on Lama Nave-Kushok ofthe
Simbiling Gomp~, token from tho book 'Yidarn Demdhog'.
A P P E N D I X 11 2 17
head of four-faced Chhangpa ( Brahma) showing t hat all delusions of
the worldly cycle (samsara) have been shaken off.
He trimples an emaciated figure, symbolising time, under his
right foot and his left leg spurns the form of a black demon. Both
these bodies are four-armed, the former a male figure and the latter
a female one.'
Round the waist, Demchhog is loosely draped in a tiger-skin as he
is released from all distinction of matter and spirit. There is full
symmetry and grace in his body, his countenance is heroic, stern and
severe. He is full of energy ; he is awe-inspiring and yet he is com-
passionate, and his features are of a peaceful cast. This is the ugra
(fierce) form of Demchhog. I n the Tibetan mythology, most of the
deities have three forms-the ugra or the fierce form, the ranjaka
or the fascinating form, and the saumya or the peaceful form.
Dorje-Phangmo (lit. Vaj ra-Varahi ) is the Y u m or divine consort
of Demchhog. The small snow-clad pyramidal peak called Tijung
that is adjacent to the Mount Kailas on its western side, is the abode
of Dorje-Phangmo. Dorje-Phangmo, Demchhog's Y u m, sumbolic of
Energy, clings to him in an inextricable embrace. She is red in
colour which, in Tibetan art, is the symbol of affection for all beings.
She has only one face since all things have one taste ; she possesses
two hands, for she comprehends both aspects of truth-the apparent
and the real ; her right hand holds a curved knife which is wisdom or
con~ciousness t hat cuts away all qualifying thoughts and passioiu.
She brandishes this weapon in all directions. With her left had she
clasp3 her partener. To signify t hat she has united the knot which
holds all things t o be what they appear, her hair is loose and flowing.
She is naked for she is free from the obscuring veil of passion ( kama) .
She, like her partner, is three-eyed and wears the crown of five skulls
of five wisdoms.
He is Purusba and she is Prakriti. They are inseparable, so they
are shown mutually interlocked and touching at all points of contactsa
The marriage is consummated in the midst of a halo of flames, the fire
of Supreme Widom which burns up all obstacles and nescience.
I n Tibetan paintings of gods and goddesses, bliss is represented
by blue .aolo.ur, and devotion to the service of beings by red colour.
So most of the Yi dams are painted in blue colour.
1 I n the clay model of Guru-gem therc are four female figures under the right foot and
four male figures under the left foot of Domchhog.
2 The ten-foot high clay mod01 in Gl~ru-gem Golnpa nnd the bronze image in Simbiling
Qompn am of this type. I.-I some paintings, the right leg of the Yum is thrown hanging over
the left thigh of tho Yab and this is t he type of the pose in the banner oollected by Auguet
Uenseer from the Deserted Cave-City of Psngthe. Still in some other eintings both the
legs of the Yum intortvine tho Ynh ; this is the type of mpraent rt i on rffich the author had
men in the banner8 of Si mhi l i n~ Gtihpe. Those who ere interested in the subjeot would do
well to have e look into the bronze imegae of Yi dam in Yab-Yum pose kept in the Muleurn
and in the art gallery of R. B. Jelan s t Patne.
APPENDIX I11
There is a reference t o Kailas (Mount Meru) in the Vedas, the oldest
books in the world's library. It is written in the Puranas, that Lord
Shiva and Brahma, gods of destruction and creation respectively,
did penance in Manasa Khanda. Marichi, Vasishtha, and other sages
did benance here for twelve years. Manasarovar is said to have
been created by Brahma who, i t is believed, floats in i t in the form of
a Royal Swan. Emperor Mandhata in Krita-yuga (Golden Age),
Ravana, Bhasmasura, and others in Treta-yuga (Silver Age) did penance
to propitiate Lord Shiva. There is a reference to Kailas and Mana-
sarovar in the great epic Ramayana. Rishi Dattatreya did the pilgri-
mage to Kailas and Manasarovar.
There are several references t o Kailas and Manasarovar in the great
epic Mahabharata, according to which about 5,050 years ago at about
the beginning of the Kali Yuga (Iron Age) Arjuna visited and con-
quered this Region, in consequence of which the vassal Kings of this
Region sent black and white yak-tails, best steeds, gold, brilliant gems,
and other things as presents to the Emperor Yudhishthira on the occasion
of Rajasuya-Yaga or Horse-Sacrifice. After that, Rishi Vyasa and
Bhima visited Kailas once and Sri Krishna and Arjlana on an@her
occasion. Rishis, sages, and spiritual aspirants had been visiting
and sojourning in this hallowed Region from time immemorial.
&cording to some historians the great Emperor Asoka (269 ~.c.)deputed
the Katyuri Raja Nandi Deva of Kumaon who invaded Western Tibet
through the Unta-dhura pass and finexed it to the Indian Empire.
On his return journey he visited Railas and Manasarovar. Nandi
Deva visited this Region once again in the following year. According
to the copper plate inscription in the temple of ~andukeshvar', the
Katyuri Raja Lalita Sura Deva and Deshata Devq invaded and con-
quered Run-desh (Manasa Khanda of Tibet). The famous Chinese
pilgrim Hiuen Tsang (A.D. 635) says that the Katyuri Kings of Kumaon
ruled over Tibet (western parts) in the sixth century. I n the seventh
century, I-Tsing and several other Chinese travellws c(676-686)4
came to India through Manasa Khanda, to study Buddhism in the
Nalanda University and to visit places of Buddhistic pilgrimaie in India-
Some biographers of Jagad Guru Shree Adi Shankarachawa write
that he had dropped down hisbody near Kailas. According to East-
ern Pandits, Shankar a~har ~a lived before the Christian era, and
according to the Western scholars he lived in the 8th century A.D.
C
1 Thin village i n midway between Joshinath and Bdrinath. The copper plate
26th year of Vikrama ere, i.e., about 33 B. 0. j-
In the Kangri Karchhak it is written that Geva Gozangba first
discovered the parikrama-route to Kailas and Manasarovar. Once
seven sdges from India visited Manasa Khanda and desposited seven
loads of silver with the King of Kardung, with which the image of
Khochar were made. On another occasion seven maidens from
India visited the Manas and had set up seven cairns, with stones
taken from India, on the south-western corner of Manasarovar at
Momo-dungu (see p. 134). The dates of these could not be ascertained.
Some Tibetans claim that Acharya Shanta Rakshita and Guru
Padmasambhava visited Manasa Khanda, but authentic evidence could
not be gathered of the visits of these two and those of Hiuen Tsang
and I-Tsing. I n the middle of the 9th century Chinese topographers
and officers visited this Region and took some notes and drew maps of
the Region later.
Adinath Vrishabhadeva, the first Tirthankara of Jainism, was
said to have attained Nirvana at Kailas (Ashtapada). The Lochava
(Tibetan translator) Rinchhen Zangbo (958-1058) visited Kailas
and Manas and sojourned for 12 years at Khochar, preaching Lord
Buddha's gospel. His gaddi is still preserved there.
In the year 1027 Pandit Somanath of Kashmir visited this Region
and translated the Kalachakra Jyotisha into Tibetan (see p. 60).
Pandit Lakshmikara and Danashree Chandra Rahula also accom-
panied him.
Ifi the 11th century, the great Tibetan mystic and poet, Siddha
Milarepa' sojourned in this Region for several years, doing his
penance remaillingcompletely naked. He wrote over a lakh of verses
in ~{bet an, which have all been printed along with his biography.
Kailas Purana gives a good acc4~unt of his miracles in connection
with his contest with the hereti;? lama Naropenchhung. There are
several places on Kailas-parikrama, associated with this saint. Lama
Marpa-Milarcpa's Guru, and Tilopa-Milarepa's great grand-guru
visited Kailas and Manasarovar, and the latter sojourned for some
time at Cherkip. '
On the invitation of the King Chang-chhup-o of Guge (Western
Tibet), the great Achrya Deepankara Shreejnana, popularly known
as Atishq, (982-1064), the Rector of the Vikramashila University, went
to Thuling, in 1042 at the age of 61, for preaching Buddhism, stayed
there for ~ i n e months, and wrote several books in Tibetan. It is
said that he got the monastery of Chhabrang constructed in 7 days.
2 According to tho Tihbtan~, Tantrik cult ahrted from Dorjo-chhnng. Tilopa WRR the
firat Tantrik teacher and hails from BengaI. Nerope is hie dieciple (1040) end ie a Kaehmiri
pandit. Lame Marpa ia his Tibetan disciple and is a married monk.
H ~ R disciple is the
Brent yqi , Sitidha Jechun Milampe /J038-1112). Ho ie e full-fledged monk and his disciples
are Thakpo Lhanjir and Reohung. Hie followere ere oalled Karggudpa, whioh eect is lrtill
prevailing in Tibet.
220. K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
I n 1044 he visited Kailas-Manas and spent a week in a cave on the
shores of the Lake below the present Gossul Gompa. There are his
footprints and a spring a t Gejin (see Table IV). He stsyed for
one rainy season in Khocharnath. One of his Tibetan disciples who
was with him till his last days, wrote an elaborate biography of the
great Acharya. He died at the age of 83 and his skeleton and drinking
vessel are, to this day, preserved in the temple of Dolma in Nythang
Gompa. Lama Jigden-gombo, the first abbot of Dekung Gompa,
with 13,000 disciples visited Kailas in the year 2057 of Buddha Era
(A.D. 1613 ? ). He visited Kardung and Khochar also. At the time
of his visit there were many scholars and Bhikshus in the Purang
valley.
Ra Lochava was in this Region for 21 years and had got constructed
108 image-halls at Thuling, Purang, Khochar, Limi, Shar, Piti, and
other places. He got the faces of the image of the Khochar
Gompa gilded. Some of the frescos in Khochar Gompa are said to have
been executed by him. His tlme could not be ascertained. In
1553, the Khan of Yarkand sent his general, Mirza Haidar, with
a big army to raze t o the gf-ound the idol-temples in Lhasa. " The
army made havoc in the country like plague but was itself decimated
and did not attain its desired object ". On the return journey
Haidar halted for the night on the shores of the Lake.
It is said that the Moghul Emperor Akbar the Great, had sent
a party in the middle of the 16th century to discovei the source oi
the Ganges. The party went round the Manas and prepared a map
in which was shown Sutlej and Brahmaputra coming out of Mana-
sarovar and Saraju coming out of Rakshas Tal.
,
In 1625-26 the Portugese Jesuit Father Antonio de Andrade went
to Chhabrang by the Maria pass and laid the foundation of a Chris-
tian Church in April 1626. In 1627 four more Jesuits went here but
there are no traces of the church now.
Some say t hat Gosain Tulsidas, the author of ~ama-Charitanzanasa,
visited Kailas and Manasarovar, but it is very dsubtful.
He des-
cribes Lord Shiva and Parvati as sitting under a huge banyan tree
near Kailas Peak.
Raja Bajbahadurchand of Chand Dynasty ruled over gumaon ,
(with Almora as capital) between 1638 and 1678. Having Beard of the
atrocities committed by the Huniyas (Tibetans) on the ~ i l g r i m~ to Kailas
and Manasarovar invaded this Region. He entered Tibet by Unta-
dhura pass and visited Kailas and Manasarovar. On the return
journey he had besieged the fort at Taklakot, took control of all the
passes leading t o this Region, and stopped all the taxes which the
Indian Bhotia traders used to pay to the, Tibetans. Later, on an
assurance bdng given by the Tibetans t hat they would not molest
APPENDIX I11 281
either the pilgrims or the traders in future, he ordered the taxes to be
paid to the Tibetans as usual. On his return from Kailas the Raja had
founded"a Sadvarta, in 1673 t o distribute food and clothing free t o
the pilgrims to Kailas and Manasarovar, for which he had set apart
the revenue of five villages by a deed engraved on a copper plate.
The fifth Tashi Lama Penchhen Lobsang Chhoki Gyalchhen, came
on a pilgrimage t o Manasa Khanda in the 17th century. It is said
of him t hat he threw a hhatak from Thugolho to the Lake-god residing
on the tree in the centre of the Lake. The khatak appeared to have
remained suspended in air t o ordinary persons, for i t was actually
hanging on the branches of the holy tree which could only be seen
by the pious few. On his return he had gilded the top of a temple
at Tashi Lhunpo with a handful of chema-nenga (see p. 199) taken
from the shores of the Manas. Some say t hat the Lama visited the
Manas in the 19th century.
In 1715, the Roman Catholic Father, Desideri and Freyre travelled
from Leh t o Lhasa in the company of a Tartar Princess and her
big retinue. They reached Manasarovar on November 9, 1715.
Desideri and Freyre are the first white men t o visit Manasarovar.
Desideri describes the Ganges as taking rise in Kailas and Manasarovar
and confuses i t with the Sutlej and further says t hat Kailas is
the source of the Indus.
Between 171 1 and 1717, the Chinese Emperor Kang Hi deputed
some lama-topographers to survey and reconnoitre this Region.
They had later prepared a map of Tibet including this Region. About
the year 1758, Khembo Sonam Gelzin of Ngor or Ngyur Golnpa visited
Kailas- ana as Region and wrote the Khochar Karchkuk or Khoclz~v
Purana.
Purangir, a Brahmin, employgd by Lord Warren Hastings as an
interpreter and a spy and who accompanied Boglel and Turner
to Tibet, visited Manasarovar about the year 1770 and stayed for a
day at Thugdlho. He reports that the Ganges has its source on
Efailas and from there i t flows into Ma~iasarovar and from the Manas
it flows out again. Between 1770-80 Purailpuri an urdhva-bahu
sanyasi (a monk with hands upheld), visited Balkh, Bukhara, Samar-
kand, China, Lhasa, and other places and then did the Parikrama
of the Mailas in six days. He says t hat the Ganges issues out of Kailas,
Saraju frcm Rakshas Tal, and Brahniaputra from the Manas.
In 18 12, William Moorcroft, a veterinary surgeon and Captain
Hearsay, ill the guise of sadhzcs entered Tibet by Niti pass. On August
6, they camped Ilea;. Chiu Goml>a. At'the that time there was no flow
of water in the Ganga Chhu. But Harballabh, who accompanied
I Bogle im the first Engliehman to or~ter Tibct.
222 K A I L A S - M A N A S A R O V A R
him, visited the Manas previously in 1796, when there was so much
of water in the Ganga Chhu that he could not wade through it but
to cross i t by bridge near the hot springs. It is said that Moorcroft
was killed near Manasarovar in 1838.
One Debu or Dev Singh of
Johar who was a Patwari for 24 years, helped Moorcroft a good deal
in his wanderings in Ngari. Moorcroft and Hearsay are the first
Englishmen to visit Manasarovar. I n the year 1841 General Zoravar
Singh invaded Western Tibet and reached Taklakot where he was
assasinated by Tibetans. His tomb still stands a t Toyo (see p. 79).
I n September and October 1846 Captain Henry Strachey visited
this Region by Darma pass. He went down the Darma yankti, tra-
velled t o Rakshas Tal, then t o Chiu Gompa, and returned by the
Lipu Lekh pass. He saw three feet deep water rapidly flowing in the
Ganga Chhu and suggested for the first time whether the Darma
yankti might not be the main head-stream of the Sutlej, from the
quantity of water it carried. I n 1848 his brother Sir Richard
Strachey along with J. E. Winterbottom, visited this Region via
Milam and Gyanima Mandi and travelled on the southern shores of
Rakshas Tal up to Chiu Gompa. He returned via Sibchilim and
Milam. The Strachey brothers contributed a good deal toward the
geography of Manasa Khanda.
The famous Siddha Tailanga Swami of Benares is said to have
visited Kailas-Manas for a number of times about the middle of the
19th century. His original name is Ganesh Swami 2nd hails fr'om
Vizagapatam. Being a Telugu brahmin he is popularly known as
as Tailanga Swami. He died in the year 1887 at a ripe age of* 160
but many believe that his age was 280 at the time of his death.
I n 1846 the Nepalis invaded Manasa Khanda and destroyed the
fort of Siddikhar. (seep. 81). I n Julyi866, Adolf and Robert Schlagin-
tweit proceeded up t o Daba via Milam but were turned back. Again
in the month of September they went to Thuling by Mana pass and
Chhabrang, but were again turned back ; so they codd not do any
exploration work. Sherring writes in his 'Wester'h Tibet' that in
1856 or 1860 one Drummond, Commissioner of Bareilly sailed on
Manasarovar but it could not be confirmed either from Almora or from
Manasarovar Region. In 1864, Robert Drummond, Hen? &dgson,
Lt. Col. Smith, and Webber went t o the southern flank of Gurla
Mandhata and proceeded up to the source of the Brahmaputra for
hunting the wild yak. Webber places the source of the Ganges on
the southern flank of the Mandhata and that of the Indus on the
northern flank.
.
II
In June 1865, Captain H. R. Smith, together with A. S. Harrison,
went to Tarchhen via Lipu Lekh. They ,went along the northern
shores of the Rakshas and Manas, stayed for a day near Cherkip Gompa,
and then proceeded t o Gartok. The same year in the month of
August 4drian Bennett visited Daba by Chor-Hoti pass. He stayed
there for a month and returned back by the Niti pass as he was not
allowed to proceed further.
Deputed by the Survey of India Office in 1856 through Captain
T. G. Montgomery one, Johari Bhotia Thakur Nain Singh, C.I.E. visited
Manasarovar. From his records a map of Manasarovar and Rakshas
Tal was prepared. Though he did not actually visit the source of
the Brahmaputra, yet the information he had gathered from local
Tibetans was quite right. He writes that "the source of the Brahma-
putra is in the Tamchok Khambab Kangri glaciers at the head of the
river Chema-yungdung ". He is called 'Pundit A.' in the Survey of
India Records.
Between 1867-68 Montgomery sent some more pundits for survey,
of whom some were murdered before reaching the source of the Indus.
Almost at the same time as Nain Singh, the survey of India had sent
Man Singh, son of Dev Singh a Johari Bhotia, for exploring the re-
gions north of Kailas, but Man Singh being very well known in Manasa
Khanda, Tibetans did not allow him to go beyond Kailas.
Between 1879 ahd 1882 a Johari Bhotia, Rai Bahadur Kishen
Singh was sent to Tibet by the Survey of India Office to do some survey
work. Most of his exploration work was done in Mongolia. On his
way back home he visited Manas Region also. His explorations
and maps are published by the Survey of India Office and he is known
as "A. K. Pundit".
In 1900-03 the Japanese Buddhist Monk, Ekai Kawaguchi, tra-
velled in Tibet and visited Manas Khanda in the year 1900, crossed
the Brahmaputra (Chema-yungdung), and " drank deep the water at
the source of the Ganges from tile spring Chhumik-Chungtol, " about
20 miles east of Manasarovar. He passed by Thugolho on his way t o
Gyanima Mandi and them did the round of Kailas and went t o Lhasa.
He makes the Sutlej a tributary of the Ganges and says that he found
Rakshas Tal to be at a higher level than the Manas, that every ten
years water from Rakshas Tal flows into the Manas and that the
circumference of Manasarovar is 200 miles !
At thP end of November 1904, Major C. H. D. Ryder, and Captain
Rawling, marched along the shores of both the lakes and found no
water in Ganga Chhu. Though he did not actually visit the place,
Major Ryder makes the Chema-yungdung the main river of Brahma-
putra and Kubi a tributary, from the information he had gathered
from the local ~i bet ans. I n 1906, Charles Sherring, Deputy Commi-
ssioner of Almora, and Dr. T. G. Longstaff visited Kailas and Mana-
sarovar by the 1,ipu 1,ekh pass, proceeded to Gartok, and returned by
Unta-dhra pass. Dr. Longstaff attempted to climb the Gurla
224 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
Mandhata, when he was almost about t o reach the summit, a dan-
gerous avalanche came down ; and so he had t o come back. However,
it was a successful climb. I n 1907 or 1908 Mr. Cassel visited byanima
Mandi as a special officer or most probably in the capacity of British
Trade Agent of Western Tibet.
I n 1907-1908 the Swedish explorer Dr. Sven Hedin, had travelled
for two long years and did a good deal of exploraton work. He started
the journey from Srinagar-Kashmir, passed through Ladakh, went as
far as Shigartse, the place of Tashi Lama, spent over two months
on the Holy Manasarovar, sailed on the Lake in a canvas boat, took
several soundings, prepared an isobatic map of Manasarovar, and
sounded the Lake Rakshas Tal partly. He was the first white man who
sounded the Lakes Manas and Rakshas and rounded the Manas,
the Rakshas, and the Kailas. It is he who had fully enjoyed the
beauty of the twin Lakes. The description of his voyages on the
Manasarovar are most thrilling, fascinating, and romantic. He
finally fixed the sources of the Brahmaputra, the Indus, and the Sutlej
and claimed to be the ' first European and white man ' who had dis-
covered them. These findings were finally carried by the Survey of
India Office, until they were seriously question'ed and challenged
by the author as being defective and full of discrepancies, the
authenticity of which is for the future explorer and geographer to
judge (see ' Exploration in Tibet' for details). But ;his is a minor
affair. However, Sven Hedin can safely be said to have contrib;ted
the greatest share towards the geography of Tibet and filled up
several blank spots on it. He is a t once a born explorer, geographer,
ahd an adventurer. His two monumental works are the popular
'Trans-Himalaya' in three volumes with hundreds of illustrations and
several maps and the more scientific work the 'Southern Tibet' in
twelve volumes including two volumes of maps. Besides these he had
written some ten more books incorporating his explorations and
discoveries in Central Asia and other lands.
I n 1908 Sri Hansa Swami of Bombay went to Kaflas by Lipu Lekh
pass. He stayed for twelve days on the shores of the Manas and later
wrote a book on Kailas in Marathi, which was rendered into English
by his disciple Purohit Swami under the name 'Holy aunt ai n' .
He narrates many interesting things in it-that he saw 6attatreya in
physical form on Gouri-kund, t hat by his grace he could rtegotiate a
distance in fifteen minutes on his return journey which he
did in 16 hours on the onward joprney, and so on. . One sadhu by name
Mayura-pankhi Baba visited Kailas several timesf and'lived at Kho-
char in 1912-13. I n 1913 he made arrangements to live for an Year
in Gengta Gompa hut died in February 1814 due to severe cold. In
1916 Sri Swami Satyadeva Parivrajaka visited Kailas and Manas.
A P P E N D I X I11 225
He went there via Milam and Unta-dhura pass and returned by Lipu
Lekh pass. He wrote a book on Kailas which may be the first book
in ~ind:.
In 1924 the author's Master Shree 1108 Swami Jnananandaji Maharaj
visited Kailas and Manasarovar by Mana pass and returned by
Hoti pass. He did the whole journey wearing only a kaupeen (a loin-
cloth).
I n 1922, Rai Bahadur S. R. Kashyap of Lahore visited Kailas
and Manas via Lipu Lekh pass and returned via Puling and Mana
pass. Again in 1926 he visited these places by Lipu Lekh pass
and returned via Milam. He did the round of Kailas but not of
the Manas. He wrote an article 'Some Geographical observations
in Western Tibet '. There was nothing fresh in it excepting that
he says that the length of the Ganga Chhu is 3 miles, which in fact
is nearly six miles.
I n 1926 Hugh Rutledge, the Deputy Commissioner of Almora and
Capt. Wilson visited Kailas by Lipu Lekh pass. He did the round
of Kailas and found no water in the Ganga Chhu. I n 1927 Shree Swami
Jayendrapuriji Mandaleshvar, Benares, with a party of 25 Mahatmas
visited Kailas and Manas by Mana pass and returned by Lipu
Lekh pass. He is the first Mandaleshvar to visit this Region. A
pandit of that party wrote a book in Hindi'Shree Kailasa Marga Pra-
dipika' in which he says that there are blue lotuses in Manasarovar
and that excepting on a few days there would be snowfall without
clouds. In 1929 Shree Swami Tapovanji (Kerala), and Shree Swami
Krishnashramji of Gailgotri visited Kailas and Manasarovar from
Gangotri.
In 1929 E. B. Wakefield, Assistant Political Agent, Gangtok (or the
Acting B. T. A.) visited this Region and found the Ganga Chhu deep
and fast flowing. I n 1931 His Highness Krishna Raja Wadayar
Bahadur Mahzraja of Mysore, visited Kailas. Shree Swami Sivanan-
daji, Shree Swami Advaitanandaji and Shreemati Suratkumari Devi,
Rani of Singhai, aiso visited Kailas the same year. The Ran was the
first pilgrim to travel on a dandy to Kailas.
Shree Ansingh Baba of Almora visited Kailas twice or thrice before
1930. IJ 1930-31 he sojourned at Khochar and during the winter of
1931 he stayed partly at Gengta and partly a t Tarchhen. He used
to live ori'potatoes and buck-wheat. I n 1932 he became very weak
and mad and died in a very bad condition a t Taklakot in the month
of July. It is about this Baba that one Swami of Rikhikesh wrote that
he lived on water and leaves only and yet he was stout and sturdy.
It is such incorrect reports that create sensation and curiosity amongst
credulous people.
I n 1932, I?. Williamson, Political Agent and F. Ludlow visited
226 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
Kailas and Manasarovar, went t o Gartok and returned via Simla.
In 1933 or 1934 Shree Swami Krishnamachari, while on his way to
Kailas was murdered by dacoits, two days before reaching the -des-
tination, since he resisted in parting with the money in his possession.
I n 1934 Shree Uma Yrasad Mookerjee, M.A.,B.L., brother of Dr. Syama
Prasad Mookerjee of Calcutta, visited Kailas and Manasarovar and
took a cine-film of his trip, which would run for about half an hour,
a copy of which was presented t o the University of Calcutta for
public use.
I n 1925, the Italian Orientalict Prof. Giuseppe Tucci visited this
Region by Lipu Lekh pass and returned via Gartok and Ladakh.
He is the second white man who did the rouild of Kailas and Mana-
sarovar both, after Sven Hedin. He has edited and published some
rare Sanskrit works which had been missing from India.
I n 1936 Arnold Heim and August Gansser, two Swiss Geologists
visited several places in the Central Himalayas for doing some geo-
logical survey. On three occasions the latter entered Manasa Khanda
without a passport and collected a good deal of geological data. On
the first occasion he filtered into Siddhikar from Nepal. Later he
entered Tibet by Mangshang pass, did the round of Kailas, and returned
by the same pass with his geological collection carried on sheep, as
the author did once in 1928. While a t the north-western corner of
Rakshas lake he writes "broad fathomless hogs compel a, wide detcpr.
Here must once have been the outlet of the great lakes. Now the
rivers flow in the opposite direction"' and nothing more. Perhaps
he was not much interested with the geographical aspect of the Sqtlej-
problem. On the third occasion he entered Tibet by Balcha-dhura,
went as far as the Sutlej, and returned4y the Kungri-bingri pass. They
wrote a popular work by name &'The Throne of the Gods" in
German, later translated into English I n the same year a young
Austrian Geologist Herbert Tischy smuggled himself intp this Region
in the guise of a sadhu. He wrote a book 'The Holiest ~ount ai n'
incorporating his experiences.
0
I n 1936-37 Shree Brahmachari OmSaty am sojourned at ~i rt hapuri
for an year. At the end of 1937 or early in January 1908, while
trying t o do the round of Manasarovar, he was drownedjn ~ u g t a , '
the ice under his feet having given way.
I n 1937 a batch of Gujrati ladies, devotees of Shree Narayalla
Swamiji of Khela, did a complete round of Kailas and Manas both.
Barring the Bhotias, this is the. first hatch of Indiaq ladies who had
done the round of both these firthas. I n 1938 Shreehatim~nandamayiJi
visited thls Region.
*
I Arnold Hpim and Au uet Oanneer, IThe Throne of the Go&' p. 07.
a Bltgte is the nutlet o f ~ i n ~ t ~ o into the Manna on ita north-enatem corner.
A P P E N D I X 1x1 227
In 1940 Shreemati Uma Dar and Shree M. 13. L. Dar (now Secretary,
Local Self Government, U.P.) and Shreemati Rukmini and Shree
G. Dikshit (now Deputy Engineer-in-Chief, E. I. Ry.) did the rouiid of
Kailas and Manas both and returned to Taklakot in nine days. This
is the second batch of ladies who did the round of Kailas and Mana-
sarovar.
From 1935 to 1941 Shree Narayana Swamiji of Shree Narayana
Ashrama' of Khela visited Kailas and Manasarovar successively for
seven years, with big batches of his followers and devotees. He is
much interested in this Region and is having a 'Manasa Vishramashala'
constructed on the shores of Manasarovar.
It1 1941, Shree Swami Kaivalyanandaji of the S. P. League,
Calcutta, and Mr. R. D. Balvally, now Deputy Accountant General,
Central Revenue, Delhi, with some of their friends, visited the Region
by Lipu Lekh pass and did the complete pilgiimage by visiting
Khocharilath and Tirthapuri and by doing the complete roullds of
Kailas and Manasarovar, which very people could do so far.
Between 1930-42 one Ladakhi Lama sojourned near Silung Gompa
on the southern slopes of Kailas for spiritual practices. He died in
1942. I n 1942 Capt. R. K. M. Sekar, B. T. A. of Gyantse, came on
special duty to Western Tibet via Ladakh and Gartok, did the rouiid
of Kailas, and returned by Lipu Lekh pass. A a iesult of his visit the
headquarters of the Trade Agency of Western Tibet have been trans-
ferred from Simla to Gaiigtok. In 1931 and 1942 an Aniericaii
Christian Missioiiary by name Mr. Steiner, visited Kailas and
Manasarovar on mission propaganda work and did the round of both
Kallas and Manasarovar.
During 1943 and 1944 Shree, Kailas Sarana, a Lingayat from Kar-
natak, did 100 rounds of ~a i l a a a n d 12 of Manas, a great feat indeed.
There are some Tibetans who undertook such a hard task, but it is
done spread over several years.
I n 1944 Shree T. N. Krishilaswami of Dalal & Co., Madras, with
his assistant Shiee Kalyanasundaram, visited Kailas and Manasarovar
and did the round of both. This is the first batch of pilgrims from
Tamilllad who did the round of both Kailas and Manasarovar. I n
1945 hJr. Saliin Ali, the well-known I~idiaii Oriiithologist of Bombay,
was on an oriiitliological l~ilgrimage to Kailas-Manasarovar Region,
and published tlie report of his exploration in August 1946 (see Appen-
dix VI). I n 1946, Major T. S. Blacliney of Coiinbatore visited Kailas
and Mailas but could not do the rouiids due to tlie limitatioils of
passports. The mine year Sllreetnati Lopamudra and another lady
from Guiltur visited Kailas arid Manasarovar. This is the first batch
of ladies from Aiidhra Desa to visit this Region.
In 1947 Shree Kaiiwal Krishan, the well-known Indian artist, visited
228 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
this Region, collected good many banners and other curios and made
several paintings both in water-colours and oils. He started from
Simla, went t o Gartok and returned by Lipu Lekh pass. F r m 1937
to 1948 Shree Brahmachari Bhaskarji of Ahmedabad had been a
regular visitor to this Region and did a round of Manasarovar also.
He intends settling down in an Ashrama which he proposes to cons-
truct near about Didihat on Almora-Kailas route. Shree Swami
Vidyananda Saraswatiji of the Gita Satsang Ashram, Mansiyari, has
been visiting this Region for the last five years.
The last consignment of the last mortal remains (ashes) of the
Father of the Indian Nation-Mahatma Gandhi-was immersed in
the sacred deep blues of the Celestial Lake Manasarovar, on August
8, 1948, by a party of his intimate associates headed by Shree
Surendra. May peace be unto the departed soul l The Gandhi
Memorial Committee propose t o erect a fitting memorial at a
suitable place on the shores of Manasarovar.
Shree Buddha Bose of Calcutta, the well-known Yoga-Asanist,
visited Kailas and Manasarovar by Niti-Hoti pass in 1940 and returned
by Lipu Lekh pass. He visited this Region a second time by the
same route in July-August 1948 and took a very interesting techni-
colour cine-film which runs for about two hours. He again visited
this region in October-November and took some more cine-film to
supplement the first consignment.
The author visited Kailas for the first time from Srinagar afid
returned by Niti Pass. Again from 1935 onwards he had been regularly
visiting this Region every year by various routes and staying on the
shqres of the Holy Lake Manas from two to six months I n alf he
did 23 rounds of Kailas and 26 of Manaspovar ; sojourned at Thugolho,
on the southern shores of the Lake, wce for a twelve-month during
1936-37 and on another occasion for a sixteen-month during 1943-44.
He discovered the sources of the FOU; Great Rivers of this Region
from all points of view, namely tradition, quantity of w'ater, length,
and glacier. He negotiated four new passes-Topchhen la, Lhe la,
Charok-phurdod la, and Khando-sanglam la-, reached the northern,
southern, and eastern bases of the Kailas Peak ; ascertained the number
of islands in the Rakshas lake ; discovered the Tso Kapala,,; sbudied
the Lakes cursorily when they were frozen in winter ; sounded Gouri-
kund and Manasarovar ; collected some fossils ; and undertodk some
other minor expeditions to the 'Deserted Cave-City' and other places.
The author visits this Region primarily for the prosecution of his
spiritual piactices but during his leisure hours or as ^a recreation after
his serious work, he takes to some work of scientific intereit like ex-
ploration ; and as such, the readers should not be surprised if his
AP P E NDI X 111 229
findings or writings fall short of this standard of a professional and
fullfledged scientist, in view of the fact .that he had absolutely
no regtl[ar training whatsoever in any of the branches of the
subjects he touches, nor has he got any expeditional equipment
or kit.
APPENDIX IV
It is proposed t o give here those villages with permanent residences
or houses, since i t is a bit difficult now t o give a complete list of all
the shepherd camps or moving tent-villages. Most of the villages
are situated in the Purag valley, a list of which would be given first
with the approximate number of houses in each, put in brackets.
On the right bank of the river Karnali from down t o up : 1. Sharl
(7 houses), by the side of the village is Sharba chhu, before reaching
Khochar two more streams of Chhulung chhu and Salungba chhu fall
on the way, 2. Khochar (loo), these two villages are under the
jurisdiction of Tarchhen Labrang ; about 2 mile from the village
is Lalungba chhu ; 3. Lilo (gompa and 4), 4. Kangje (6), these
two villages go by the common name of Kangje and are under the
jurisdiction of Toyo Magpon ; nearby flows the Kangje chhu ; 5.
Gejin (7), 6. Toja ( 6) , these two villages are under the jurisdiction
of Parkha Tasam ; Gejin chhu flows nearby ; 7. Thayap (7)) 8. Suje
(l o), 9. Chhulung ( l o) , here is the house of Kirong Magpon, 10. Maphuk
(6), 11. Kuilgarto (6)) 12. Dangechhen (20), these six villages are under
the jurisdiction of Kirong Magpon ; nearby is Kungar-lungba or
Dangechhen chhu, on the right bank of which is thz place called
Chhegang, where a mandi of the Nepalis is held in summer ; 13. ~ f i o r -
ten Chhedo (6)) 14. Khele (2)) 15. Topa (5), here is the house of Toyo
Magpon and Zoravar Singh's samadhi, 16. Lagun (4)) 17. S@ul%
f5), Garu chhu flows nearby, 18. Garu (3), 19. Theji-gomba (3)) 20.
Delaling (4)) 21. Lee or Toyo~Ling (g), these nine villages go by the
common name of Toyo ,and are ander the jurisdiction of Toyo
Magpon ; 22. Ronam (3)) beyond this village is Ringung chhu, 23. ,
Ringung (4), beyond' this is Phurbu chhu, 24. P h u r b ~ or Burfu (1))
25. Dungmar (11)) these four villages go by the name of Riilgung and
are under the jurisdiction of Purang Zong and Tarchhen Labrang
both ; beyond there is Bald& chhu ; 26. Kardullg (7)) this is under
the jurisdiction of Parkha 'I'asam.
On the right bank of the Karnali from up t o down : ~7. a a r kong.
(I), it is under the jurisdiction of the Simhiling Nyarchang ; 28. Doh (9) I
this is under the jurisdiction of Tarchheq Labrang ; 29. 6alung (4))
this is under the Gengta Gompa ; then comes the Yangse chhu ; 30.
Gukung or Kumphur (30), t ws is under Kirong Magpon ; all the
houses are in caves ; there is also a gompa here bhich is a branch of
I A little up the villego her, Sitaeted on the ri ht back of tho river K~rnali is the
village Ki. with 3 hovsaa and some cultivation on ait$r side of Ki chhu. Both Tibdfiru
end the Nepalese claim this village to bo theire.
APPENDIX IV 231
Gengta Gompa and a government Rest House ; 31. Taklakhar or
Taklakot (3)) Simbiling Gompa, Sakya Gompa, and the fort of the
2ongpon: at the foot of which there is the mandi of the Bhotia mer-
chants ; 32. Pili-phuk (30), here also the houses are in caves and are
under the jurisdiction of Thiti and Toyo Magpons ; 33. Chhungur (lo),
34. Yidig (2), these two villages are situated between Yidig and Tagla
chhu, 35. Dulum (3), 36. Tashigong (2), 37. Chhilchung (3)) 38. Magrum
or Thiti (30), here is the house of the Thiti Magpon, 39. Nayi ( 7) , 40.
Gunam (4), 41. Relashar (3), 42. Chhumi-thang (6), these ten villages
go by the general name of Thiti ; of these Tashigong belongs to Tashi-
gong Gompa t hat is beyond Gartok ; and the remaining nine villages
are under the jurisdiction of Kirong Magpon. The three pattzs of
Toyo, Kirong, and Thiti are jointly called Chho-sum, and there is a
joint Panchayat of the same name, 43. Phulak (3),. 44. Chhokro (3),
here is Chokro chhu, 45. Togang (4), 46. Shiddi-khar (3), above the
village is the gompa and the old iort, 47. Dorjegang or Mayul (I),
beyond this is Lok chhu, 48. Lok or Lo (20), 49. Lukpu (4), all these
eight villages are under the jurisdiction of Simbiling Gompa.
To these may be added : 50. Thugolho (8 houses), on the southern
shores of the Manas, under the jurisdiction of Simbiling Gompa ;
51. Tarchhen (4), belonging t o Bhutan State ; 52. Debring (I), belong-
ing to Shungba Goba, under the jurisdiction of Barkha 'I'asam ;
63. Khyunglung (5), 64. Missar (3), these two are under the jurisdiction
of ~ a ~ a Zong ; and 56. Gartok (9)) capital of Western Tibet, directly
under the Viceroys.
The following are some of the important settled but moving shepherd
camps or tent-villages, on the southern side of the Kailas Range,':
1. Nonokur (25 tents) in Nimapendi valley, 2. Harkong (20 ?), 3.
Chhoinokur (26 ?) , 4. Hor-Toma*, (25 ?) , near Thokchhen, 5. Kongyu
tso (30 ?), 6. Hor-Toshar (30), , 7. Toshar (30), east of Tamlung tso,
8. Hor-Pangriya (30 ?), near about Ponri Gompa, 9. Kangjak (30 ?),
near about Kuglung, 10. Shungba (25 ?), of Rakshas Tal, 11. Korpon
(20 ?), of Tarchhen, 12. Hor-Gyeva (20 ?), 13. Chhujuthol (20 ?),
near Chhakra, 14. Kh~ungl ung (26 ?), near Gombachen, and 15. Missar
(30 ?). The following are on the northern side of Kailas : 16. Diji (25),
17. Shurngba-Majin (30 ?), 18. Songkora (25), 19. Seli-phuk (26 ?),
20. ~ u n d a r a (25), 21. ~ e r k e (25), 22. Bongba (30)) and 23. Yagra
(26 ?).
Every monastery can be counted as a village in as much as it has
got a pucca building and sollie houses attached to it. To this list may
be supplemented 1. Dotlgpu, 2. Geng-yul, 3. Dapa, 4. Mangnang,
6. Thuling, and 6. Chhabrang, which are situated in the Greater
Manasa Khanda.
APPENDIX V
MONASTERIES OF MANASA KHANDA '
1. Simbiling Gompa of Taklakot (170 monks), branch of Depung
Gompa, Gelukpa ; 2. Khochar Gompa (30 monks), branch of Nor or
Nur Gompa, Sakyapa ; 3. Siddi-khar Gompa (5), branch of Simbiling,
Sakyapa ; 4. Gomba-kong (lo), branch of Sakya Gompa, situated
adjacent t o Simbiling ; 5. Gukung Gompa (3), branch of Gengta Gompa,
Dekungpa ; 6. Kangje Gompa (7), branch of Sang-chang-chhup-ling
Gompa, Dukpa ; 7. Kirong-trama, 8. Thiti-trama, 9. Toyo-trama,
all these there belong to Simbiling and are meant only for seasonal stay
and are not full-fledged gompas ; 10. Gossul Gompa (3), branch of
Simbiling, 11. Chiu (5), branch of Dira-phuk, 12. Cherkip (l ), belongs
to Tarchhen Labrang, 13. Langpona (6), branch of Hemmis Gompa
of Ladakh, Sakyapa (?), 14. Ponri (6)) branch of Sera Gompa, Dukpa,
16. Seralung (20), branch of Dekung, Dekungpa, 16. Yerngo (6),
branch of Sakya Gompa, Sakyapa, 17. Thugolho (8), branch of Simbi-
ling, these eight are Manas monasteries ; 18. Nyanri Gompa ( 5) ,
belongs to Tarchhen Labrang, Ngingmapa ( ? ), 19. Dira-phuk (6),
branch of Dadingbochhe Gompa, Kadampa, 20. Zuthul-phuk (3),
belongs to Tarchhen Labrang, 21. Gengta (6), branch of Dekung
Gompa, Dekungpa, 22. Silung (2), under Gengta, all, these five .are
Kailas monasteries ; 23. Chepgye, at present branch of Mangshang
Gompa, but the site of the monastery belongs t o Gengta Gompa ;
so Chepgye pays a nominal tribute to Gengta by way of rent, 24.
Rardung, branch of Mangshang Gompa, 25. Mangshang Gompa,
these three gompas belong to an independent group called Jokchhin
Sect, much akin to Ngingmapa ; there are about 60 monks and as many
nuns in all these three monasteries combined ; 26. Thunsa (3), branch
of Simbiling Gompa, one day's march north of Thockchen ; 27. Seli-
phuk (15), branch of Depung, Gelukpa ; 28. Dulchu (24), branch of
Sera Gompa ; 29. Tirthapuri (16), it was once a btanch of Hemmis
Gompa but since 1945 it is under Simbiling Gompa ; 30. Khyunglung
(lo), branch of Sera Gompa, DukPa ; 31. Gurugem (20) independent,
the founder-lama originally belonged t o Bon Sect but now be professes
Gclukpa sect ; 32. Gartok (lo), probably branch of Depung Gompa;
33. One Nunnery, adjacent to Purang Zong's fort, affiliated CoGomba-
kong (16 nuns) ; 34. one Nunnery at Toyo affiliated to Simbiling
Gompa (15 nuns) ; and 36. one Nunnery at Guru-gem, attached to
the monastery (30). Besides these there are five* moie monasteries
in the Greater Manas Khanda : 1. Dongpu (16 monks ?) ; 2. Dapa
(15) ; 3. Mangnang (6), branch of Depung ;o 4. Thuling (20), branch
of Sera Gompa ; and 5. Chhabrang Gompa (16), branch of Sera Gompa.
APPENDIX VI
ATJIFAUNA OF KAILAS-MANASA KHANDA1
1. Tibetan Raven (Corvus corax tibetanus Hodgs), 2. Yellow-
billed Chough (Pyrrhocorax gratculus) , 3. Red-billed Chough (Pyrr-
hocorax pyrrhocorax), 4. Hume's Ground Chough (Pseudopodoces
humilis Hume), 5. Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer), 6. Wall Creeper
(Tichodroma muraria) , 7. Brown Dipper (Cinclus pallasii) , 8. White-
breasted Dipper (Cinclus cinclus), 9. Collared Bush Chat (Saxicola
torquata), 10. Tibetan Desert Chat ( anant he deserti), 1 1. Eastern
Indian Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros) , 12. Rubythroat (Calliope
pectoralis), 13. Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitaria), 14. Robin
Hedge Sparrow (Prunella rubeculoides), 15. Garhwal Hedge-Sparrow
(Laiscopus collaris whymperi), 16. Tickell's Willow W(arb1er (Phy-
lloscopus affinis), 17. Rosy Pastor (Pastor roseus), 18. Great Rose-
Finch (Carpodacus rubicilla) , 19. Red-breasted Rose-Finch (Pyrrho-
spiza punicea) , 20. Pink-browed Rose-Finch (Propasser rhodochrous) ,
21. Goldfinch (Carduelis caniceps), 22. Twite (Acanthis flavirostris) ,
23. Gold-fronted Finch (Metaponia pusilla), 24. House-Sparrow
(Passer domesticus), 25. Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus) , 26. Tibetan
Mountain Finch (Fringillauda brandti haematopyga), 27. Tibet Snow-
Finch (Montifringilla ilivalis adamsi), 28. Red-necked Snow-Finch
(Mdntifringilla ruficollis,) 29. Blanford's Snow-Finch (Montifringilla
blanfordi), 30. House Martin (Martula dasypus), 31. Sand Martin
(Riparia riparia), 32. Crag Martin (Riparia rupestris) , 33. Hodgson's
Pied' Wagtail (Motacilla alba alboides), 34. Yellow-headed Wagtail
(Motacilla citreola), 36. Elwes's, Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris
elwesi) , 36. Long-billed Calandja Lark (Melanocorypha maxima),
37. Tibetan Skylark (Alauda gulgula lhamarum), 38. Rufous Short-
toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla dukhunensis), 39. Short-toed
Lark (Calandrella Acutirostris), 40. Hoopoe (Upupa epops) , 41.
Swift (Micropus %pus), 42. Horned Owl (Bubo bubo), 43. Little Owl
(Athene noctua), 44. Himalayan Griffon Vulture (Gyps himalayensis),
45. 1,ammergeler or Bearded Vulture (Gypaetus barbatus), 46.
Kestrel:, (Falco tinnunculus), 47. Cherrug Falcon (Falco cherrug),
48. Eagle (Aquilla rapax), 49. Tawny Eagle (Aquilla rapax), 60.
Pallas's Fishing Eagle (Haliaetus leucoryphus), 6 1. Buzzard (Buteo),
62. Turkestan Hill Pigeon (Columba rupestris turkestanica), 63. Snow
I The author i~grntofi.1 to Mr. Snlim Ali, the well-known Indian Ornitbologist of Bombay.
for having kindly sllowed him to reproduoe the list of birds of this Region, which hb had
observed betwoen Juno A and July 8, 1945 when he was on en ornithologionl pilgrimege
to this Region. Thoso who are interested in the eubject may refer to the Journal of the
Bombay Natural History Bociety'; Vol. 46, No. 2, August 1946,
30
234 KA I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
Pigeon (Columba leuconota 54. Tibetan Sandgrouse (Syrrhaptes
tibetanus), 55. Chakor (Alectoris graeca chukar), 66. Snow Cock
(Tetraogallus), 57. Black-necked Crane (Grus nigricollis), 58. Brown-
headed Gull (Larus brunnicephalus), 59. Tibetan Tern (Sterna hirundo
tibetana), 60. ' Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus ), 61. Pamirs
Lesser Sand-Plover (Charadrius mongolus), 62. Curlew (Numenius
arquata) , 63. Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus) , 64. Redshank
(Tringa totanus), 65. Temrninck's Stint (Erolia temminckii) , 66.
Bar-headed Goose (Anser indicus) 67. Gadwall (Anas acuta), 68.
Pintail (Anas strepera), 69. Brahminy Duck (Casarca ferruginea),
70. Goosander (Mergus merganser), 7 1. Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps
cristatus) .
APPENDIX VII
I :
REPORT ON FOSSILS
As the book is in the press, the author gave some of the fossils he had
collected to Mr. P. N. Mukherjee, Pal~ontologist, Geological Survey
of India, for identification. The following is the provisional identi-
fication of the specimens, since some of them have been misplaced
while in the Geological Survey Office. The author is thankful to
Mr. P. N. Mukherjee for the report.
I I
No. NAME I LOCALITY 1 AGE
-
1. Kellawaysites greppini
(A septate fragment)
2. Indet. Ammonite fragment
9. (?) Orthoceras in a rolled
nodule
Mangshang (Tibetan
side of Kuti)
) I
Tso Kapala (Souther1
foot of Kailas Peak)
tary Ammonites
Unkizown
(?) Jurassic
Already recorded
from the Jurassic
of Kachh.
(?) Jurassic
11. Indet. nodules
12. Indet. Amonites in
nodules and pebbles
13. Bactrites sp.
14. A doubtful Coral
16. Fossilised bone of a
Bovid
Devonian
Unknown
Pleistocene
may be Jurassic
Recorded from
the Jurassic of
spiti.
Jurassic
,,
I )
I n
3. Indet. Ammonite , ,
4. Belempites cf. gerardi l ~ n u r a (South of
Puliiig (Tibetan side
of Gangotri)
Damodar- Kuiid
P I
I I
lTso Kapala
Tsepgye (west coast
of Rakshas Tall
5. Perisphinctes sp.
0
6. Orthoceras sp. (fragments)
7. Rhynchonella sp.
.
8. Fragments of Iiidet.
Amonities etc.
9
(?)
Manas)
Tinker -
Lipu Lekh
Kuti
Bongza Range
(Central Tibet)
Svmnath (Tibetan
side of Kungri-
bingri pass)
236 KAI I , AS - MA N A S A R O V A R
The general faunal assemblage of fossils identified under items
.. to 12. indicates a Jurassic age approximating to 130 mill$ years.
The fossil specimen under item 13. indicates a Devonian age appro-
ximating to about 300 million years.
The last specimen under item 15. indicates a Pleistocene age appro-
ximating to one million years.
APPENDIX VIII
I ,
REV. SWAMI PRANAVANANDA, F .R.G.S,
(Of the Holy Kailas and Manasarovar).
A SKETCH OF HIS LIFE AND WORK1
Rev. Swami Pranavaiianda hails from East Godavari District in
Andhra Desa and was born in 1896. His household name was
Kanakadandi Venkata Somayajulu. He graduated from the
D. A. V. College, Lahore, i n the year 1919. For a short period he
served in the Railway Accountant's Office, Lahore, but resigned the post
and joined the Non-co-operation movement. The spirit of love and
service has been the heritage from his parents. From 1920-26,
he was an active Congress worker in West Godavari District. Then
he had a call from the heights of the Himalayas in consequence of an
internal urge for search after Truth. Accordingly, he was initiated
into the Holy Order by the great Acharya Shree 108 Swami
J~iananandaji Maharaj .
Dr. Jnanananda, after attaining Realization, took to Scientific
Research with the aid of his intuitional knowledge. He had conducted
eq~erimental- research for wellnigh 15 years on the Continent in
different Physical Laboratories at Dresden, Berlin, Prague, Liverpool,
Ann Arbor (Michigan) and other places, in Spectroscopy of X-
Radiations, /%rays, Magnetic Electron Lenses, Isotopes, Nuclear
Physics, Higher Vacua, and allied subjects ; and he is a t present
taking part in the National PLysical Laboratory, Del,hi, as the Senior
Scientific Officer. It is from ' this great Swami-Scientist that our
Revered Swami Pranavananda derived his inspiration for search after
and Truth for things Scientific.
Shree Swamiji has extensively travelled in the Himalayas for wellnigh
23 years in c6nnection with his Spiritual Sadhana. During this
period he has had occasion to study the Geography and, Topography
of several regions therein. He lived in Gaiigotri for full one year
(1934-Xi),, even after the temple-gates were closed for winter and
visited Gaumukh, the glacial source of the Ganges, several timq.
The Swami visited Kailas and Manasarovar for the first time in the
year 1928 via Kashrnir-Srinagar, Ladakh, and Gartok. Since then
he has been visiting Kailas-Manasarovar Region every year mainly for
his spiritual 'practices ; and he usually lives there for about six months
1 T8kon from the 'Indim Cmgrephiccrl Journel', but the information h d been bronght
up-to-dete by the Publiehere.
238 P A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
in the year, but carries on research work also in different branches of
science, such as Geography, Geology, Botany, Zoology, Arch~eology,
etc., as a hobby during his leisure hours. He visited this Region by
various routes in different seasons of the year.
The Swami spent a whole year in 1936-37 and a full sixteen-month
in 1943-44 as an inmate of the Thugolho Monastery, on the southern
shores of the Holy Lake Manasarovar, a rare privilege, never before
accorded t o a non-Buddhist monk, as we learn from Mr. Paul Brunton's
book 'A Hermit in the Himalayas'. The minimum temperature during
his stay in winter was 50.5"F. below freezing-point. During his stay
at Manasarovar the Swami recorded how the Manas and Rakshas lakes
froze in the beginning of winter, what changes ensued after freezing,
and how the lakes thawed in spring. Thus he made a comparative
study of the characteristic features of the sister-lakes. When the
Ravan Hrad was frozen in winter, he went over the lake on ice and
made a rough survey of the two islands in it. He is the first non-Tibetan
to land on these two islands. Rev. Swami Pranavananda's competency
for the task is unique. He has the simplicity and bravery, the for-
titude and endurance of the best of the sanyasis ; he has the inqui-
sitiveness and fidelity to truth of the scientist ; he is not dogmatic ;
he is keenly observant ; records his observations carefully ; and gathers
them up with a view to making them available to people at large ;
above all he has the tenacity of the bulldog to do the work he takps
up in hand. Up till now the Swami has completed 23 circuniambula-
tions of the Mount Kailas and 25 of the pre-historic Lake Manas.
Our Swami is very well-known in the Kailas-Manasarovar Redon
and other parts of Western Tibet and is loved deeply by officials,
monks, and people in general, since he carries a ' Free Travelling
Dispensary' and renders medical aid t o the rich and the poor alike.
He is known there as ' Gyagar Lama Gurzsb (Indian Lama Guru), ' Thugu
Rinpochhe' (His Holinesa of Thugolho Monastery), and 'Gyagav Amji'
(Indian Doctor). With the aid of the Governor of ~uraqg-Taklakot and
the Viceroys of Gartok (Western Tibet), he visited the real sources of the
four Great Rivers of the Holy Kailas and Manasarovar, namely the
Brahmaputra, the Indus, the Sutlej, and the Karnali. As a result of his
several explorations and Geographical researches, the Spvarhi has
exploded the findings of Dr. Sven Hedin, the Swedish explorer, regarding
the sources of the four rivers of the Holy Kailas a ~ d Manasarovar and
has fixed the sources of these rivers from different criteria, ilamely
tradition, length, quantity of wates, and glaciers, aftef actually visiting
these places. This has evoked great sensation among the 'Himalayan
Geographers ail the world over, since this very valuable contribution
of the Swami has reopened a question supposed to have been settled
by Dr. Sven Hedin as far back as 1908. It will not be out of place
A P P E N D I X VIII 239
here to make a mention that "the very valuable contribution which
the Swami has made to the Geographical knowledge of the Kailas
RegionJ&, has been very inuch appreciated by the Surveyor-General of
India. The Swami's findings have been accepted by the Royal Geogra-
phical Society, London and the Survey of India Office which have
incorporated them in their maps of 1941 and 1945.-Hind 5000 Sheet
N.H--44 and 62 F.
Though he does not profess to have the technical knowledge of a
trained Geographer, the results he has achieved and the spirit of minute
observation and searching enquiry displayed in his work are really
commendable. One cannot but be convinced by the remarkably logical
and lucid arguments with which the findings of Dr. Sven Hedin are
challenged and disproved. He has exhibited to the world how Indians
do not lag behind others in the spirit of adventure and exploration.
The Swami is the first of the living Indian explorers, and has vindicated
by his researches Indians' claim to original work of the kind. We trust
that his work would inspire many an Indian youth to undertake travels
of adventure and exploration. 'The Daily Telegraph' of London writes
of him as "the distinguished Indian Sanyasi-Explorer and Scientist".
Some of the papers of the Swami have been published in the Journal
of the Royal Geograp6ical Society, London, Calcutta Geographical
Review, The Indian Geographical Journal, and several leading
Newspapers of India. He contributes papers to the Indian Science
Cofigress as dell. Two of his lectures delivered at the University of
Calcutta have been published by the University in a book-form entitled
'Exploration in Tibet', wlich elicited the appreciation of several eminent
Geographers like Dr. Longstaff, Dr. Somerwell of the Everest EK-
pedition, Mr. Wadia and otherg A thoroughly revised and enlarged
second edition of this book is being brought out by the University
of Calcutta. This book has been prescribed as one of the text-books
for the M. A. and M. Sc. Examinations in Geography, since the year
1942. He a140 wrote the book 'Pilgrim's Companion to the H,oly
Kailas arid Manasarovar', a review of which was published in
Vol. XVII, No. 1 of this Journal ; this has now been developed
into the present Volume 'Kailas-Manasarovar'. Besides these two
books, he Swami has written an exhaustive work in Hindi in four
I!
parts, ailbs-n4a~zasarovar1, covering about 450 pages, the counter-
part of, which is awaiting publication in Gujrati, Bengali,
Marathi, Telugu, Tamil, and Kanarese. The Swami has written
an elaborate comnientary of over 1000 pages on Srimad Bhagavad
Gita in Tel uq, which is awaiting publication. He has also written
a few pamphlets on spiritual subjects.
I n 1948, the Swami has taken a three-seater light rubber boat
' JANMA-BHOOMI' and souGded the Gouri-kund, the highest lake (18,400
240 K A I L A S - MA N A S A R O V A R
feet above the sea-level) ever sounded so far,.
This is a unique feature
in the annals of the Gouri-kund, for i t was completely cleared of ice
for the first time in its history. Before concluding his trips t a Kailas
Region the Swami wants to sink his lead in the Manas lakes and defi-
nitely locate the thermal springs situated in their bed and to reach
the centre of the Lake which is considered inacc'essible by Tibetans
and which has not been reached by any one hitherto. To achieve
this end he had bought, in1942, an up-to-date four-seater full length
18-gauge galvanized-steel sailing-dinghy ' J N ~ NAUKA', weighing
440 lbs., with sailing equipment and airtight chambers fore and oft,
to make i t unsinkable. He had taken this JNAN NAUKA' to Manasaro-
var in August last and launched i t in the Lake and took a few tentative
soundings. He has taken an outboard motor during the summer of 1948
to complete his work. This will indeed be a unique incident in the
history of the Sacred Lake. After the exploration work is com-
pleted the Swami has no intention of bringing the boat back to India,
but wants to hand it over t o the Darma Seva Sangha for the benefit
of future pilgrims and tourists.
I n October 1942, the Swami did a close and complete circum-
ambulation of the Ravan ~ r a d (Rakshas Tal) for which he had been
planning for a decade. He ascertained the actual circumference of the
lake and the number of islands in i t ; traced the source of the Sutlej
by examining the so-called 'Old Bed of the Sutlej', noted the flow
of the water in the Ganga Chuu from July to October 'and colleckd
a few geological specimens. He also reached the perpendicular
wall of the northern and southern bases of the Kailas Peak
foe the third time and crossed all alone for the second time "the
Khando-sanglam la, a pass with deceptive crevasses, on the eastern
side of the mount, which was neither known to nor crossed by any
non-Tibetan up till now. He crossed the pass for the first time in
July 1941. Besides the Khando-sanglam la, he had negotiated three
more new passes, namely Charok-phurdod la (in 1937, 1gP2, and 1946),
~oGchhen la, and Lhe la, all above 18,000 feet high (in 1937).
In 1942, the Swami collected a fourteen-pound marine fossil-
bed from the Tso Kapala, which is the first find of fossils from Kailas
Range. It has been examined by the Geological Survey ot India
Office and was found to belong to the Mesozoic age (19 crorp-year old).
I n 1945, the Swami reached the northern and southers perpen-
dicular walls of the Kailas Peak and brought some specimens of the
rock. He also brought some marine fossils from the Ganga Chhu
and specimens of serpentine (Zdharmora) from then south-eastern side
of Kailas. In 1946, he visited the deserted Cave-Colony of Pangtha
and he now proposes to lead a small Archaeological Expedition to this
Colony once again, to take some photos of the fresco paintings and collect
AP P E NDI X V I I I 24 1
from the caves all materials t hat niay be of interest. I n 1947,
he collected 99 fossils from Boiigza Range in Central Tibet, and
some rhore marine fossils and bone fossils from different parts of t he
Manas Region. He also collected from this Region a few implements
of the stone-age. He brought t o t he notice of t he Geographers several
hot springs which might, with great advantage, be tested for
Radio-activity and radon coiltent. He did a full round of t he
Mandhata Range in October 1948 and found t hat the boundary of
Nepal adjoining the Manasa Khanda, as given in Survey Maps, is
xroneous.
It may be nieiitioiied t hat there is no lotus or lily in Manasarovar.
So, far the last few years, the Swami has been making experiments
co culture lotus, lily, si~zglzada (water-chest iiut), aiid makhana, in t he
Manas Lakes. It is yet t o be see11 how far he would be successful in
?is experinieiits, but all t he same i t is a novel idea worthy of praise
incl worth t he trouble. The Swami, being an Ayurvedic Physician
limself, has discovered a wonderful aphrodisiac drug in the Matias
Region ~vhicli, i t is said, is not t o be found in other parts of the
Himalayas. We understand t hat the drug is beiiig sent for analysis aiid
:onfirmati011 of the properties attributed t o i t . A descriptioii of tlie
h u g is given in page 46 of this book.
The Swami has been carrying on research on 'Musk and Musk-
leer' for over twelve years which he hopes t o complete in a year after
~~s ys t e nl a t i ; Histological and Cytological study of the aiiinial
)y brillgi~ig n li1.e animal t o alaboratory in the plains. I t niay be remem-
~er ed t hat the Swami has read a paper on 'Musk and Musk-deer'
th;ugh not concl ~~ded) in t he Meclical aiid Veterinary Section of the
kience Congress lield ill Ba r ob, and in the Universities of Beiiares,
4ucknov\, Pat ~i a, and Calcutta and Lahore Ayurvedic Conference.
%very year he does some exploration or research work in some branch
)f Sciencc or other in his own humble way. I t is really a matter of
)ity t hat ndi e of our Uiliversities utilize tlie experience and services
)f* such a brillidlit explorer and scientist like our Swami. Yet tlie
;wami, unniindful of any help does his work for work's sake, in the
])ki t of a true Kar ma l'ogi.
Our,Swami is not oiily a full-fledged Spiritual Sadhalia, Explorer,
lid a SciAitist but also a bit of a Historian. He has collected a good
leal of m~aterial regarding tlie Kaslimiri General Zoravar Siiigli, who
vas killed iri an engagerilelit nit11 the Tibetans in Mailasarovar Region
11 184 1 :lnd jvliose death ceiiteiiary was celebrated a t Taklakot by the
h r ma S e w Sanglla, in which tlie Swnnii gave a lear~ied talk.
Ve learri from one, of his friends, RIr. l' aul B~ul i t o~i , t hat lie is well
11) both in Hatlia a~i t l Raja Yoga :mtl t hat he carried on a syste-
[latic research i l l t I ~e fafi~ous Khechav~ .41irdra.
242 KA I 1 , A S -- M A N A S A K O V A R
The Stvami has made a good collection of Tibetan curios for his
'Kailas-Manasarovar Museum', which we understand, the Provincial
Museum, Lucknow, has acquired. The Swami has clone a greatservice
to the cause of Archaeology by surveying and getting a full and first-
hand detailed account and a plan of the 'Barari Caves' near Bhagalpur
(Bihar) published in the 'Journal of the Bihar Kesearch Society',
Vol. XXXIV, Parts I & 11, 1948. The Caves are considered to be of
pre-Buddhistic period though they were later usecl by Buddhist monks.
A mention of these caves was made by the Chinese pilgrim Hue11 Tsang
(A.D. 635). He had also thrown some new light regarding the real site
of the famous Buddhist Royal University of Vikramashila. It nlay be
remembered in this connection t hat the site of Vikramasllila has not
been identified so far. The attention of the Government of Bihar
is drawn to these new archzeological finds.
The Swami has got constructed a YAJNA VEDI 011 the shore of the
Manas at Thugolho, where the Birthday of Lord Shree Krishna is
celebrated every year. Besides, he has been trying for the last several
years to construct Rest Houses oil the shores of the Holy Lake and at
Kailas.
It is no small surprise t hat a Swami who repaired to the Himalayas
chiefly for spiritual practices, besides being inspired by the mystic
grandeur of the holy places, could still find leisure and iilclinatioli
to study the Aesthetics, Geography, etc., of the hl ne and also render
a faithful and minute account of the whole, for the benefit of Humaniw.
We fully wish and hope t hat Shree Swamiji will continue to enl i ght e~~
the outside world on the many other Himalayan Problems awaiting
sok~tion and combine scientific pursuit with Spiritual Sadha~za, as in fact
like our ancient Kislzis, he has striven,t,o do so far with such wonderful
results. 311. D. N. FVadia, formerly of the Geologic~tl Survey of India
and President of the Indian Science Congress of Baroda, 1,trrites ill
'Current Science' thus, "Sincere thanks and congratulations of all
(ieographers and of Indian Naturalists ill particular are due to the
Rev. Swami Pranavanancla for 1,ublishing results of val~iable explow-
tions conducted by hiin during his pilgrimages i l l the Kegion of Mount
Kailas an(l Manasarovar in Western Tibet".
"As a mark of appreciation and recognition of his excellent
achievetnents, exploratioes, and other scientific researches?' the
Indian Geographical Society has elected the I<everecl Swami Qranava-
r ~a t ~da as an Honorary I,ife Member.