Independent Study

Ashlee Layman
Bowling Green State University
Spring Semester 2014
Mariana Mitova: FCS 4700

Independent Study

Objective
This project was constructed to produce the garments that were designed for Hale, an
athletic wear line designed for baby boomer women. I took AMPD 4140 in the fall semester of
2013. I was able to design a product line for a specific target market from inspiration to
conception. This independent study is to further my steps in the apparel production process by
producing the garments that were designed in the course. I am able to source from another
country to obtain my garments, which was an extension from AMPD 4140 and AMPD 4510.
Since Professor Mitova is from Bulgaria, it was an obvious choice to decide to produce
the garments in that country. Since we had a limited budget of $200 from Bowling Green State
University, we knew that we had to be resourceful. With the help of technology and Marianas
family, we were able to successfully complete the objective of this project.
We collectively worked with three students and one teacher, named Elena Ivanova.
While others were involved, she was the source of communication. We used Google Docs and
Skype to communicate. Since language would be a challenging barrier, it was important that
Mariana was present at the Skype meetings in order to translate, since they were unable to speak
English.

Sourcing Information
Dimitar Talev High School
City of Gotse Delchev 2900
Gotse Delchev Street No. 36

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Bulgaria: Background Information

Introduction
The Bulgars, a Central Asian Turkic tribe, merged with the local Slavic inhabitants in the
late 7th century to form the first Bulgarian state. In succeeding centuries, Bulgaria struggled with
the Byzantine Empire to assert its place in the Balkans, but by the end of the 14th century the
country was overrun by the Ottoman Turks. Northern Bulgaria attained autonomy in 1878 and all
of Bulgaria became independent from the Ottoman Empire in 1908. Having fought on the losing
side in both World Wars, Bulgaria fell within the Soviet sphere of influence and became a
People's Republic in 1946. Communist domination ended in 1990, when Bulgaria held its first
multiparty election since World War II and began the contentious process of moving toward
political democracy and a market economy while combating inflation, unemployment,
corruption, and crime. The country joined NATO in 2004 and the EU in 2007 (Central
Intelligence Agency, 2104).
Geography
Located in southeastern Europe, bordering the Black Sea, between Romania and Turkey
Area: 110,879 sq. kilometers; slightly larger than Tennessee (Central Intelligence
Agency, 2104)
Country comparison to the world: 105 (Central Intelligence Agency, 2104)
Terrain: mostly mountains with lowlands in north and southeast
Natural resources: bauxite, copper, lead, zinc, coal, timber, arable land (Central
Intelligence Agency, 2104)
Natural hazards: earthquakes and landslides
Environmental issues: air pollution from industrial emissions; rivers polluted from raw
sewage, heavy metals, detergents; deforestation; forest damage from air pollution and
resulting acid rain; soil contamination from heavy metals from metallurgical plants and
industrial wastes (Central Intelligence Agency, 2104)
People and Society
Languages: Bulgarian (official), Turkish, and Roma (Central Intelligence Agency, 2104)
Economy
GDP: $104.6 billion (2013 est.) (Central Intelligence Agency, 2104)
Country comparison to the world: 74 (Central Intelligence Agency, 2104)
Exports
o $27.9 billion (2013 est.); country comparison to the world: 67; $26.7 billion (2012
est.) (Central Intelligence Agency, 2104)
o clothing, footwear, iron and steel, machinery and equipment, fuels
Export partners
o Germany 10.4%, Turkey 9.1%, Italy 8.7%, Romania 8.2%, Greece 7.3%, France
4% (2012) (Central Intelligence Agency, 2104)
Exchange rate
o leva (BGN) per US dollar -1.478 (2013 est.)
Communications

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Television
Internet: 3.395 million users (Central Intelligence Agency, 2104)
Mobile devices
Broadcast media

Industry Background
The apparel and textile industry represent nearly 12,6 % of total Bulgaria's foreign
exports (2009) (Bulgarian Association of Apparel and Textile Producers and Exporters,
2014)
There are over 2,500 companies that specialize in the production of apparel in
Bulgaria;113,260 employees as of 1 July 2010 (5% of the total number of the employees
in Bulgaria and 19,3% of the people employed in industry) (Bulgarian Association of
Apparel and Textile Producers and Exporters, 2014)
Bulgaria boasts a tradition of high quality, reliability and competitive prices (Bulgarian
Association of Apparel and Textile Producers and Exporters, 2014)
Advantages for Producing in Bulgaria
Flexibility, possibility for production in small series
Comparatively good technological equipment
Proximity to markets and suppliers of materials
Reliability and quick deliveries
Experience in working with Western markets
Still competitive labor expenses and prices
High quality
Highly-skilled labor force
Consistent reliability
The Future of Apparel Retail in Europe
In the coming years, European retailers will be forced to import the majority of large
order, commodity clothing from China in order to remain competitive. But remaining
competitive for these firms will also mean reducing opportunity costs of lost sales resulting from
mid-season stock- outs, particularly for higher quality items. China, due to its slow delivery and
inability to ship in small quantities, will not be an option for retailers and buyers to respond
quickly to unforecasted fluctuations in demand. European retailers must look closer to home for
these solutions (Bulgarian Association of Apparel and Textile Producers and Exporters, 2014).
Bulgaria's Role in this Future
Bulgaria is Europe's quick response solution. Bulgarian firms are rapidly developing the
internal capabilities to manage all aspects of their supply chains to European partners, including
sourcing, design, transport/logistics and own branding. These capabilities, combined with
Bulgaria's strategically favorable location, make working with Bulgaria a critical and valuable
component to your company's strategy (Bulgarian Association of Apparel and Textile Producers
and Exporters, 2014).

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Readings
Chapter 4: Analysis of Product Development

Garment analysis: establish priorities among aesthetics, performance, price, and value;
match customer preferences to garment characteristics
Visual inspection: least complex/sophisticated method of garment analysis; effective in
evaluating overall garment appearance and aesthetics, estimating fabric quality,
identifying stitch and seam types, and estimating numbers of stitches per inch
Augmented visual inspection: provides more formation and increases in the ability to
reach reliable conclusions; uses simple tools such as a ruler or a magnifying glass
Laboratory tests: the most scientific garment analysis; endorsed by the American
Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), the American Association of Textile
Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), or other professional organizations and controlled
laboratory conditions
Professional garment analysis can be accomplished by evaluating:
Product positioning strategy
o Does the garment serve primarily a functional or aesthetic purpose?
o Intrinsic/Extrinsic cues to quality
Intrinsic: styling, fit, sizing, fabrics, stitches and seams, & finishing
Cost: value surrendered in order to receive and/or produce goods &
services
Extrinsic: price, brand name, apparel firms reputation, product
presentation, & advertising
o Product change
How does the product relate to the fashion/basic, seasonal/nonseasonal
continuums?
Performance traits are the result of the characteristics of materials,
assembly, and finishing processing
o Price and price ranges
Sizing and fit
o Sizing systems and size ranges
Body types: classified by body proportions as related to age & gender
Sizing system: includes a range of sizes based on gradation of dimensions
for a body type
o Indicators of size
Indicated by a word, letter, or number that represents general body size;
proportional relationships among body parts; age, height, weight; or
dimensional sizes of body parts
General body size: one-size-fits all; small, medium, large, extra large
o Fit indicators
Fit: how a garment conforms to or differs from the body

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Garment structure: general silhouette of a garment, number and location of

limiting fit points, and amount, placement, and control of fullness

Silhouette: indicator of how closely a garment conforms to the body
Limiting fit points: include rigid garment components that do not readily
expand or contract to accommodate different body shapes and dimensions
Fullness: controlled by darts, tucks, pleats, and gathers
o Industry-wide sizing standards
Materials selection
o Findings: materials needed to complete garments: support/shaping materials,
trims, closures, threads, labels, and accessories
o Criteria for analysis of materials
Material name, material content, yarn type and size, fabrication,
count/gauge, weight/size, hand/drapability, structural/applied design, color
application, finishes, care, and method of application
Component assembly
o Methods of assembly: define the sequence of events and how each step in the
assembly process is accomplished to create the garment structure
o Garment component: garment part that requires one or more separate pieces to be
processed as one unit
o Operation breakdown: sequential list of the steps in the production process
o Stitch and seam types: depends on the materials used, predetermined quality level,
performance expectations, cost limitations, equipment available, and aesthetic
requirements
o Degree of enclosure: an indicator of quality of garment structure
Final assembly and finishing
Garment presentation
o Hanger or shelf appeal: critical for selling the product to the retail buyer and the
target consumer
o Labels
o Tickets
o Packaging: may provide functional protection and/or aesthetic appeal
Chapter 5: Product Standards and Specifications

Standards: set of characteristics and procedures that provide a basis for resource and
production discussions.
Specifications: brief, written descriptions of materials, procedures, dimensions, and
performance for a particular style.
Sources of Product and Quality Standards
o Company standards
o Industry standards
o National standards
o International standards

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International Organization for Standardization: comprised of the national standards

bodies from 91 countries
ISO 9000: a set of five individual but related international standards on quality
management and quality assurance that have been developed by the agency
Standards for Quality, Fit, and Performance
o Quality standards: part of a firms standard operating procedure, product
development, and production planning
o Size and Fit Standards: checking certain garment dimensions is part of
inspection of finished garments
Performance Standards for Materials and Finished Products
o Performance standards: must meet the needs of both the consumer and the firm
involved in the production and distribution of the merchandise.
o American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) & American
Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AARCC): have established
standard test methods related to performance characteristics and physical
parameters of textile products.
Using Specifications
o For each style, specifications are prepared that provide control over acquisition of
materials, their performance characteristics, and the production processes required
to make the finished product
o Communicating Product Descriptions
o Developing Product Consistency
Size standards: basis of finished garments that consistently fit the target
customer
o Negotiating Bids, Contracts, and Licensing
Bids: potential contractors submit these based on the specifications for the
product, and the government issues a contract to the lowest bidder
Contracts: usually based on much less complex specifications
Licensing: involves a licenser granting the right to a licensee to use
merchandising properties such as brand names and trademarks
Product specifications: the means by which standards and intellectual
property related to the manufacturing process are described
Chapter 8: Materials Sourcing and Selection

Sourcing: the determination of the most cost-efficient vendor of materials and/or

production at a specified quality and service level
o Changing rapidly to take advantage of improvements in communication
technology and business partnerships
Considerations that may favor making the materials or finished goods include the
following:
o Less expensive to make it
o Availability of excess plant capacity and specialized equipment
o Need to exert direct control over production and quality
o Unreliable service from vendors or contractors
o Desire for design secrecy

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o Desire to maintain stable workforce in period of declining sales

o Volume requirements too large or too small
o Desire to integrate phases of production
o Limited lead time with QR systems
Considerations that may favor buying the materials or finished goods include the
following:
o Less expensive to buy it
o Small volume requirements
o Short product life
o Close supervision of quality is less important
o Own inadequate production facilities, equipment, capacity
o Need for suppliers expertise and know-how
o Desire to maintain stable workforce in periods of rising sales
o Desire to develop or maintain a multiple sourcing strategy
Four factors stand out above all others when considering make-or-buy alternatives in the
apparel business:
o Costs
o Production capacity
o Quality
o Timing
Materials Sourcing: seeks and negotiates the acquisition of fiber, yarns, fabric,
interlining, buttons, zippers, and so forth
Lead times: vary with point of origin, shipping methods, whether materials are open
stock or custom designed, and whether products are performance tested before production
begins
Predicting Aesthetics and Performance
o Fiber content
o Yarn quality and size
o Fabric weight
o Hand and drapeability
o Application of color
o Structural or applied design
o Fabrication
o Finishes
Evaluating Fabric Quality
o Receiving and inspecting materials
o Fabric problems
o Latent fabric defects
o Fabric grading
o Textile performance standards
Chapter 9: Production Planning and Sourcing

Production Strategies and Concepts

o Production is one of the essential functions in apparel manufacturing
Production Strategies

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o Flexible manufacturing
o Agility
o Mass customization
Production Concepts
o Throughput volume
o Throughput time
o Work in progress
Production Planning
o Production planning is the integrative process of coordinating the demand for
finished goods with available resources
o Long-term production planning
o Short-term production planning
Production Capacity
o Refers to the productive capability potential of a plant, machine, or work center in
a given period of time
o Output capacity
o Plant capacity
o Committed capacity
o Available capacity
o Required capacity
o Constraint operation
o Production standard
o Learning curve
Scale on which proficiency in completing a task is related to the frequency
of completing a task
An operator learns a task by doing it; proficiency increases with the
repetitions
Determining Sources of Production
o Codes of conduct
o Financial options
o Domestic sourcing
o International sourcing
Communications
Culture
Financial, legal, and political issues
Quality
Lead times
Selection of international contractors
Production Sourcing Priorities and Processes
o Selecting a vendor
o Product preparation for sourcing
Style samples
Construction methods
Measurement specifications
Pre-production sample
o Quality management of sourced goods

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o Managing production of sourced goods

o Managing logistics and customs issues
Chapter 10: Costs, Costing, Pricing, and Profit

Cost: the total dollar amount invested in a product

Price: the dollar amount asked or received in exchange for a product
Revenue: the total of all receipts from the sale of the firms products during a stated time
period
Profit: revenue must exceed costs
Costs and Profits
o Income statement
o Cost of goods sold
o Gross profit margin
o Manufacturing costs
Direct materials cost
Direct labor costs
Overhead
Indirect labor costs
Nonvariable overhead costs
Variable overhead costs
General operating expenses
Administered overhead
Systems of Costing
o Short range
o Long range
o Direct costing
Contribution margin
The difference between the price of a product and the cost of goods
o Absorption costing
Recovers overhead costs by assigning a percentage to some element of
direct labor
Overhead application rate
Factory overhead
o Activity-Based Costing
Costing system that treats all costs as variable elements of a product cost
o Preliminary costing for creative design
o Cost estimating for line adoption
o Detailed costing for technical design
o Determining actual costs
Materials
Labor

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Preparation Time Log

Date

Hours

Activity (Brief Description)

Outcome (Brief Description)

2.7.14

Skype Meeting with Instructors

from High School

Discussed expectations and deadlines

2.10.14

Took measurements on garment

samples for project garment
specifications at Bowling Green
Hats & Apparel

Documented the measurements for

garments to determine the amount of
fabric that will be needed to construct the
projects garments

2.11.14 3

Investigation of fabrics: Joann

Fabrics and Hobby LobbyToledo, Ohio

Went to Joann Fabrics and Hobby Lobby

to investigate whether or not I could obtain
fabric swatches and looked into
availability of performance textiles

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Report of Activities
1. Skype Meeting: February 7, 2014 @ 9:00am

Outcome: The Skype meeting was set at 9:00am, yet Elena and her colleagues did not get online
until around 9:40am. Since starting this project, we have discovered that there are many cultural
differences: the time difference, language barrier, and the value of time and being prompt.
Mariana and I discussed with the participants garment sketches, deadlines, and what we needed
to have achieved by the time the semester was over. They all seemed very enthusiastic and
excited. However, it was very difficult for me to know what was being discussed throughout the

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conversation, since I do not speak Bulgarian. Mariana was able to translate and give a brief
synopsis of what they had said, yet it was still rather challenging to feel like I was actively
involved in the discussion.
2. Measurements of sample garments at Bowling Green Hats & Apparel: Bowling Green, OH
Outcome: I took measurements of garments that were similarly designed to the products that we
are producing for the project. This will show us how many meters of fabric we will need to
obtain in order to produce each garment. An email was sent to Elena about where we should
source the materials from. After a lengthy discussion about the decision to possibly source
materials in Bulgaria from a local fabric store, Elena simply responded with Okay. We are not
aware of what steps they are taking in the process and we have not heard back from Elena, even
though we have been making many attempts.
3. Looked into performance textiles & swatches- Joann Fabrics & Hobby Lobby: Toledo, OH
Outcome: I looked into the performance fabric at both locations. Hobby Lobby did not offer
any. Joann Fabrics offered two different types, which were blends. However, the price was over
$14/yard, which was out of our budget. We decided that it is probably more cost efficient to
obtain our materials in Bulgaria, since it will cost us over $100 to ship it to the school. They
would not obtain the fabric for a few weeks after that.
4. Skype Meeting: March
Outcome: We discussed the particular level of production that the students were at during this
point in the garment construction process. We wanted to determine how long it was going to
take and when they would be able to ship the garments.

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Production of Garments in Bulgaria

The student is cutting the patterns for a garment bodice.

The student is sewing the sleeves onto the sweatshirt.

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The student is sewing sleeves onto the hooded sweatshirt.

The student is meticulously sewing garment together.

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The students are cutting the pieces which will soon be constructed.

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Lounge Pant

Length: 46 long (1.1684 meters)

Notes: The pants were constructed beautifully. They are wide throughout the leg. The material was
turned inside out around the waistband to provide a contrast. Overall, the look was aesthetically pleasing
and fit perfectly.

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Shell Top with Twisted and Knotted Detail

Length: Bodice: 24 long (0.6096 meters); Sleeves: 5 long (0.127 meters)

Notes: The garment was constructed beautifully. The color was not what we had planned, but the overall
construction was aesthetically pleasing. The shirt flattered the body exactly the way I had designed it to.

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Legging with Folded Waist

Length: 46 long (1.1684 meters; includes folded-over waist material)

Notes: The legging pants were constructed perfectly to specifications. The material was
comfortable and the length was exact. The folded waist was flattering and aesthetically pleasing.

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Long Line Hooded Sweatshirt

Length: Bodice: 24 long (0.6096 meters); Sleeves: 18 long (0.4572 meters); Hood: 18 long (0.4572
meters)
Notes: The hooded sweatshirt was designed exactly to specifications. The hood was the most attractive
feature because it covered the neck, which was ideal for colder climates. The fabric on the pocket was
turned inside out in order to show a contrast.

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Button Back Top

Length: Bodice: 24 (0.6096 meters); Sleeves: 18 long (0.4572 meters)

Notes: The shirt was constructed exactly to my specifications. The color, however, was not what I had
intended, but it was still very pleasing and fit very well.

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Relaxed Woven Pant

Length: 41 long (1.0414 meters)

Notes: The relaxed woven pant was the only garment that was very different from my original design.
However, we did not have the budget or resources available to produce the features that I desired. The
drawstring turned out being a mock design, simply sewn on was a string that was just ornamental. There
was not elastic on the ankles, which was also a part of the design. The garment still turned out with
amazing quality and fit the body as intended.

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References
(2014). Retrieved from Bulgarian Association of Apparel and Textile Producers and Exporters:
www.bgtextiles.org
Central Intelligence Agency. (2104). The World Factbook. Retrieved from Bulgaria: www.cia.gov